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  1. Today
  2. Is your reg/rec flat on top of the fins, or curved? The original OEM ones were flat--as in pancake, like your battery will be if you rely on one! But, Honda upgraded its reg/recs at some point to the curved, or rounded fin version. I don't think they are MOSFET, but they may be less prone to failure than the original OEM reg/recs. Maybe you don't have a reason to panic! (FYI, I believe the SH847 Series-type reg/rec was OEM on Suzuki DL1000 Stroms). Ciao, JZH
  3. Hi Lars, yes the Euro-spec bikes from that era had headlight on-off switches and 'passing' switches, whereas the US-spec bikes did not. I have fitted Euro-spec switch pods to US-spec bikes in the past, however, so they are not that different--but you do need to be looking at the right wiring diagram (which you are)! Thanks for the great write-up of your repair, and for high-quality photo of the wiring diagram, too. I'm sure that will be useful to someone in the future. Ciao, JZH
  4. 'No' is not really what I wanted to hear, but reading on it sounds more like a 'maybe' to me! One option I have considered (but hoped to avoid) was to convert the cantilevered shelves into a 4-post rack. Unistrut is also available in deeper channels (61mm and 81mm), but that gets expensive real quick. 'Back-to-back' 41mm channels are also available. But using any of them for the verticals forces the workbenches away from the wall--and I don't know if just using those struts would solve the 'moment' issue in any case. A 4-post rack may be the least-worst solution. I'd still have to work out the number of posts-per-bike, but that should be a fairly straightforward load (4x) calculation--and that could still allow me to position large equipment underneath (such as a lathe) if it were located "between bikes", so to speak. * * * Okay, so I've now looked at commercial pallet racks and I think that may actually be the way to go. They are available here in a number of configurations, but most critically in 800mm deep versions with spans up to 3.6m! I have 7m of wall, so I could fit a six-post pallet rack with two 3.3m spans, each of which is designed to support 1,100kg. A fully laden VFR800 (the largest bike I would be racking) weighs less than 300kg, so I could store three of them with no issue--and only have one vertical post "in the way" down below. Something like this, but with the horizontal carriers moved all the way to the top. (I've read that the loading and stability of "one-level" pallet racks are much reduced, so I'd have to brace it to the walls, at least.) I'd also have to think about the shelf covering (if any)... Thanks for your insight--critical comments are in many ways more valuable than encouraging ones! Ciao, JZH
  5. Let's hope it stays a "fun" project! Floor smoothness requirement noted--thanks. Ciao, JZH
  6. It shouldn't take too much time to take a bike "off the shelf", but I don't know if I will ever have the luxury of choice like that. I was thinking more about being able to take one down, prep and maybe do some work on it--as well as ride it for a while--before moving on to another one. Ciao, JZH
  7. I've been thinking about the same thing: running horizontal struts side to side along the house's wooden beams in addition to anchoring the verticals into them at the top. That's a 4.3m span... But, it also could be a great way to suspend lighting, air lines, etc. (I'm not sure what kind of floors I have at this point. There's actually wood flooring in there now. Not sure what's under it--more wood? That's not a great for a garage!) Given my space limitations and bike collection, I kinda have to do this, but how it will be done remains an open question. I will definitely photograph my progress/downfall as I go! Cheers, JZH
  8. Ok, you just changed the oil, right? Now do a full bleed on the clutch hydraulic circuit and pull out the clutch cylinder push rod and give it a good polish. See if that improves things and go from there.
  9. Yesterday
  10. so i have a 1999 vfr 800 my bike is winerized for 8 months and i dont ride it much , but i love my bike and love when im on it . any way my clutch plates are sticking . i think from lack of use . but it just changed the oil and it is a little milky . I think it is from condensation on my cement floor an i havent changed the oil it two years since i dont put miles on it. Will condensation or milky oil cause the plates to stick , and a second question if i dont ride it much and it is in storage how can i prevent the plates from sticking ? any advice is welcome .
  11. Never two without three. 🙃
  12. I sent SW files and prints the other day. I use SolidWorks Maker at home, and Professional at work. The Maker version is only 49 bucks a year, and totally worth it, being an industrial standard. I make all of my 3D printed or machined parts at home using SW.
  13. Well the Devil system I have, looks more like a 4-1 than a 4-2-1 Tock it off as doesn't allow to install a longer shock to raise the tail
  14. Thanks to all have done this...
  15. @SEBSPEED & @SteyrTMP : I have send Mike my draft conversion, so in case you don't want to burn your time. I work with FreeCAD and I warmly recommend it.
  16. Ok Honda had to order the recalled harness… So I’m sure that will take 60 days or more. 😔 He said no one carries them in stock, they have to be ordered by VIN, not sure how true that is…
  17. This is my fuel maps. First fuel map is originel setup 2023 Second map is originel pistons, deactive vtec, tunet cams and homemade exhaust 2024 and last map is 825cc, ported cylinder heads, deactive vtec, tunet cams and homemade exhaust 2025 The last map shows how much the fuel supply had to be increased.
  18. You do realise this is a 15year old thread right !
  19. Hi, I have a 2014 VFR800 and I’m looking for a rear rack, most likely to mount a GIVI top box. I’ve come across a few options online that are listed as compatible with the 2014 VFR800, but some of the same items are also listed as fitting different specific models — which makes things a bit confusing. Could you please advise on the correct rack for my bike and, if possible, provide the item code? Thanks in advance!
  20. Look in here
  21. I'd be looking at the electrics. Check the connections on the ignition coils and check the resistance values of the coils and ht leads. The values are in the maintenance manual.
  22. So this morning I decided to sort out the stiff front end as the front brake feel. The front end stiffness was easy to sort as former owner seems to have added quit a bit air pressure to the fork! Taking it out did make the forks feel normal! Guess it's a thing I should have checked, but guess I forgot as my other RC24 has billet caps whit out a air valve 🤷 Then to the front brake feel. Some former owner has put brained brake lines But only the 2 lower The upper from the M/C is still orginal. As I changed to 2 long on other RC24 instead of the original like 3 setup, I have a spare set, so just take the upper from that set It was quite straight forward to change whit some care to not spill brake fluid on other parts As you see I did take the rubber that protect the banjo bolt, looks better I think, especially now as the upper brake lines is silver color and the lower are black, so this way you have to look deeper to notice that. And believe it or not, just by playing whit the level having the M/C in position so air can move up, I managed to bleed the system! Next I also had the level off for cleaning as new grease on all contact points Now the level action is smooth and feel firmer. Only test ride remaining to see how it works. Saturday morning well spent.
  23. keny

    Anything goes!

  24. Last week
  25. Oof, that’s a serious chunk of change—but man, those carbs are next level. If performance is your thing and budget allows, it’s tempting. Definitely not for the faint-hearted (or light-walleted) though.
  26. I checked and I do not have a punch mark on the VIN tag. Also found the recall online and see my VIN is within the range for my 2005. I’ll call my Honda dealer Monday and will have to tow it in. NP. I also spent time today pulling off the fairings today and inspecting all the connectors and harnesses. The wiring overall looks good, all wires are dry and no damage found on most connectors and loom is clean. NOW what I did find had me all kinds of excited, but 10 minutes later, disappointed… I found this blue connector & the ground has been tampered with. Only one side is ground to the frame, the other side, as you will see in the pics, remains intact on the connector . Should that side be ground? I need help to know if the previous owner wired this right, I don’t think it’s correct. What had me excited was the ground wire that goes from the loom to the frame was actually broken! So I thought “bam” I found the issue! So I re-did the connector, cleaned the ground area, screwed it back on and no joy. Bike is 100% same. No fuel pump engaged. Can anyone advise on this connector? Should both ends be ground or should I cut the other side and splice/solder it together and bypass the connector all together? Thanks! https://youtu.be/BI6JUAZ_6Og?si=jGGZ_wdi3RBhZbCj
  27. No it does not
  28. keny

    Keny`s album

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