V4 Rosso

Ah, but like videoguy said: "The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. " and you won't be able to do that with the bike held upright by the wheel chock.

What? That NR rear wheel is still not on your FP? 😄

IIRC the bolt spacing of the pickups is different.

With the bike on the centerstand I put something in front of the front wheel so it can't move forward. When you stand in front of the bike it can be your foot. Grab the clipons and pull the bike towards you a couple of times. Done. Now you can tighten the pinch bolts.

I agree with Danno and Grum. Also because Doug mentions the bike does not start at all, where if there is only one plug not firing it should not be a problem getting the engine to run. So maybe the ICM is sort of confused about crank position and although it does trigger pulses on the other coils the timing may be way off.

I had the same issue with a K&N oil filter. Had bought my VTEC from a dealer a couple of months earlier. I was cruising the autobahn at 100+ mph, going home after spending a week riding the German Harz region with a couple of buddies, when the oil pressure warning light came on. Immediately hit the kill switch and was fortunate enough to be very close to an exit and have enough speed to coast to a byway. Rear tire was covered in oil, so was my left boot and it felt slippery when I kicked out the side stand. Bike was towed back to the dealer and he swapped the engine out of precaution and b

Assuming the brake calipers are in perfect working condition and not have any sticking caliper pistons or slide pins. I prefer to put a wedge in front of the wheel.

I found this old pic I once took of a link (on the left, next to a new connecting link) I removed when cutting the old chain. Looks quite OK to me. I will try to remember to get some more measurements (e.g. of the rollers) the next time I swap the chain. This can take some time as the current one still has at least 50K in it 😉

Michelin Pilot Road 2's are still in production and are now a lot cheaper then they used to be. If you like the Pirellis then you will like the PR2 too.

It's no P-D stage but I do commute on my bike and when I get home have never found those mechanics waiting to service the chain on my bike. And after a days work I am not so keen on doing it myself every day. That's why I have a chain oiler, not for the "bling or "got to have it add on"

I prefer the pin type, gives better access to the axle nut and clamp bolts.

107F? That's about ambient temperature in southern Europe. I guess it's the same for California during the summer months?

No, you understood correctly. No problem sharing battery tenders. When a battery is fully charged it should be no problem to leave it without a charger for a couple of weeks as long as the temp in your garage is not below freezing.

Mine does lube the X-rings and keeps them clean so they last longer wich helps in keeping moisture and other contaminants outside and the factory grease inside. Also I don't think a single drop of oil every 4 miles cools the chain down by any measurable amount. Chains don't get that hot that it affects the longevity of the grease anyway. I replace my chain shortly after the first adjustment. That is when it has done about 70.000 km in varying weather conditions. Correct. Here the regular chain for the S1000XR/RR is €138, the endurance chain is €268.