Captain 80s

Also ran across this a few weeks back: https://www.ebay.com/itm/287046571278?_skw=RC36+taillight+cowl&itmmeta=01KFGJC49J992K1KGYKSC9N56B&hash=item42d54f150e:g:a0gAAeSwdpZpVow6&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2FpTFipmH3ZB78DCW6182ZB%2FXOWLdLtnYBlcQnP%2BIHevFkGbH2wsX%2FSzVz0%2BydZOVnGsDIw%2BpEgo%2FRgZ0eb6AUZO7sdHmUgEjhUZBMEbjzRk8SmCjjrGa6tStOKY%2BbshW0QU6Cf9NpWIkzY8GOGObz1nAgfvjvkoCxaPB1KWfdHL%2FOs%2FbVALdRugqJN%2FfvEFYShPUPC1XLqJg5Oufrqb6hyDmuyXeYIVSfIekVpYBU8zDjBmTPKjw38kkqBaL0K4IfE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_jEsJL8Zg Appears to be intact and comes with the Euro version taillight with a clear panel to illuminate the license plate allowing you to ditch the fender mounted monstrosity.

I have one. Originally red, painted (somewhat poorly) black. Missing a thread insert, but I have an extra that has a corner missing that you can source the insert from and do a little repair. Let me dig it out later and take some pics. The bonus is that it does not have a crack in the center like almost every single one does. Extra bonus... I'm in WA.

Congrats!! And... More pictures!!!

I don't blame you at all. Strange times.

While I personally wouldn't start with 400 anything on my tubes, as long as they aren't the coated variety of high end tubes, some knocking down of artifacts is perfectly acceptable on hardened chrome. In the real world where debris hits your chrome tubes, without addressing trouble spots your options would be to change your seals every month (or sooner) or replace your tubes for any anomaly that could take out a seal. The commentator sure seems like a wanker. I think in the video he states that they are coated tubes, which they are not. That being said, it seems like Moss immediately went for a harsh option for some "dark spots"? "Slide" story: When I worked for a Honda/Yamaha dealership, this know-it-all ASS-HAT came in with his R!'s Gold Titanium Nitride coated fork tubes. He had his forks completely disassembled by another shop and wanted his tubes "warrantied" because the coating was "failing". In my mind I was like, "Here we fucking go. this oughta be fun." The Salesman is standing at the counter with him assuring him everything will be fine, shouldn't be a problem, blah blah blah. His bike was pretty new (we sold it to him) and I was VERY skeptical. I hadn't heard of anything similar. And if it was happening so soon, I probably would have by then. I'm looking at the tubes and I didn't see failing anything. You could feel something with your fingernail, but it sure seemed to be built up rubber or something. "Give me a couple minutes to look into something." I took the tubes back into the shop (WITHOUT HIM), got a brand new diaper and some Mothers Polish. It started coming right off. I knew if there was even the slightest imperfection anywhere he was going to squawk. I cleaned up the tubes, they looked BRAND FUCKING NEW. The gold coating was still exactly the same, not lighter looking at all. I came out with a straight face, said they weren't failing, if he just would have looked closely it was just what seemed to be some seal rubber build up and he can go away and have his forks reassembled by whatever suspension "expert" took them apart. He went over them like a fucking NASA mirror inspector and found NOTHING. It was FUCKING GLORIOUS watching him squirm and slink away. ASS-HAT.

Sammy Hagar - RED

Indeed. You can bolt a 3rd gen 5.5" right on. You can also fit a 5th gen wheel with just a little relieving for for the disc nuts. I did this when I was stealing the 5.5" 8-spoke wheel from a 1990 I was flipping.

That is a big thick limb and the percentage is above 90%. Been doing it for decades, I do not own a fuel injected bike, and have about 40.

I am forced to run ethanol in my area if I actually want to go anywhere. If the bike is stored in a somewhat controlled environment without drastic temperature fluctuations (that tends to help create moisture/condensation in tanks), draining the carbs during extended non-use will suffice. If it has to be stored outside... Get some really good additives. And FILL the tank to minimize air space. Fucking ethanol. I have a 35 gallon gas pump of non-E in my outer garage for my power equipment and vintage bikes.

Current 3rd and 4th owner. The 4th is the pinnacle of a carb 750. The smoothest, most linear power delivery of any bike I have ridden. Absolute heaven sounding with a nice slip on muffler. My high mount Staintune is bliss. 5.5 gallon tank is nice compared to my 3rd gen 5.0. The 3rd gen is the thirstiest bike I have ever owned. It has 4th gen headers and a custom Sudco slip on with stock main jets. Runs perfect, guzzles gas. It does have bigger carbs than the 4th gen. I would eventually like to F around with a 5th. Goodbye DCBS. But if it meant getting rid of my 3 or 4, forget it. No deal.

Yeah man. Really like that mod. Hope you are well and Happy New Year!

I would gladly pay for 2 sets of successful reproductions. You seem like the chap to do it.

My RC26 build, I initially used CBR triples. Pretty much maxed out what the swingarm could take as far as rear ride height and has short CBR forks. Also zero sign of instability, at any speed. Frequently got the front end air-born at near triple digits on a particular stretch of road. No drama at all when the tire came back down. I switched to 41mm VFR triples, but not because of any dislike of the handling. Only because the lower triple was designed to interact properly with the frame stops. The bike got "livelier" at low/moderate speeds with the VFR triples. Still rock solid at any speed.

Shiny only proves they're, well, shiny. The bike does not look lowered to me. Here is my stock suspension 95 before I started modding it. What the preload/sag is set at, how heavy the rider is, and the resulting laden geometry /ride height is also unknown.