Captain 80s

I own a bunch of 84 to 86 VF/VFRs and it is a problem. Perhaps a similar modern Fuel Cut Relay could be adapted, never tried. I still want a toggle to prime the fuel system after winter storage and to get my ass off the middle of a bridge.

He's not wrong. They fail and they fail often. But I choose to keep one in place with a toggle to over ride when needed. The system works just fine with it bypassed. It is a safety feature to keep the pump from operating when you don't want it to (like crashing and a fuel line gets severed around a red hot motor and exhaust). One failed in the middle of a floating bridge on me two weeks ago. One of my only bikes that didn't have a toggle, but of course I had a jump wire in my tank bag. 3 minutes later we are on the way again.

Yeah, the dzus plates and lower fairing clips, just drill out and rivet on new fairings.

More progress. Rebuilt brakes are assembled. Trimmed the rear turn signal mounts and reshaped the fender. Cockpit is looking pretty good. Switched to a CBR1000F master cyl so the double banjo bolt on the individual lines could clear the dash. I have a CBR1000 clutch master on the way so they will match. Need to solder in the reg/rect and install a fuel cut relay switch and a fan switch. I removed the casting for the side stand rubber so my boot can fit under the shift pedal easier too. I also installed a 1000F left engine mount since I'm not using the stock shock (where the damping cable and air hose normally mount).

Any cut outs are "scribed" on the inside of the pieces. Don't worry about the foam "matting", it is just an attempt to reduce the overall dba of the motorcycle (for the original DOT acceptance) so other things (gear driven cams) can be louder. They even bolted rubber mats on the inside of each crankcase cover for the same reason. As far as grommet nubs, I can't remember how airtech comes. I'm guessing without. Which pieces did you order?

It's not a bank angle sensor, it can be positioned in any orientation. It is likely just a faulty unit. They are known to go bad, and one of mine failed in the middle of a floating bridge 2 weeks ago.

Just give that a rinse or two, you'll be fine.

AirTech Beasley

You should be able to find an ignition switch. Probably aftermarket. And you can then go 2 keys. Or I have had a key cut with each number on opposite sides. The locks only use one side. The stock keys are cut on both sides for convenience. Here's an example of the switch, aftermarket. This isn't THE ONE, just an example. Although, I do believe this one would work. Ignition Switch Aftermarket

What I am saying, is, they key number stamped into the seat lock is very likely the same for the cap. Get that key made.

you need to get into tank, tho, right?

Remove the ignition. In an area that is not visible when mounted, is the key number (like A47 or D16). Get that key made. That low mileage of a bike, all the other keyed items should still match. You can also remove the helmet lock for the same purpose. That has break-off bolts, so it is harder to remove, A fresh set of vise grips has always allowed me to get on the edge and get them loosened.

Do not cut up those stock mufflers. Buy some hammered ones off ebay and cut those mufflers off. Then put on whatever cans you want with a small connecting pipe. That is exactly what the Kerker "slip-ons" were for the 86-87. And what is a "F3" ? Are you talking about the 1990-1993? Not even close. The 86-87 actually have a pretty decent "headers". They sound wonderful with some "slip-ons".

Upper triple has some serious key fob wear, so it got a new color. Kinda a bronze/grey. Came out nice. All the wheel spacers are now done. Hub has the studs in it. Forks have oil in them and painted to match the frame, and the front wheel is painted. Rear brake stay solution is complete. 929 caliper bracket with a press-fit sleeve I machined to bring it down to 20mm. I made the bracket and the stainless torque "arm". Caliper bracket is drilled and tapped.

The fact that it ran and they are all pretty much equal, pretty damn sure your readings are just low at the gauge. Check your cam lobes and followers. If they are good, check/adjust your valve lash, button it up, and ride the piss out of it. If you end up having problems down the line, then source another engine. Taking a 500 down beyond the heads is a losing proposition these days.