Captain 80s

You have to also snip one wire in the oil filter control unit.

"lf the feeler gauge cannot be inserted easily, pull the left fork out or push it in until the gauge can be inserted. After installing the wheel apply the brake several times, then recheck both discs for caliper holder to disc clearance."

I "edited" my post. Typo. Move it with your hand. A lot of times I can "cup" the bottom of the fork with the axle end in my palm, and move it over a bit with my finger tips. If it needs to go in, give a slight blow with the side of your fist. In any case, see if you can manipulate it with some slight force. It doesn't take much movement to get the clearance you need. Again, this is assuming everything else is cool. But this is not the first time I've seen this or had to do it on a bike with zero problems.

Sometimes you have to manually manipulate the fork just a tad to gain clearance before tightening the pinch bolt(s), if it doesn't want to on it's own after pumping the forks for it to find it's "home". One of my Service Manuals for a different year even mentions it.

Bike looks good. Can't tell if that's black or a dark blue.

Couple of my bikes seem excessive. But I've happened to have been thru the whole clutch on a 14K mile bike and everything was perfect. But I knew it would be. Oh, and those were my Gear Driven Cam bikes, no cam chains. The ST1100 I rode to work today does it too. No cam chains, 29K miles.

I'd be surprised that a bad Cam Chain Tensioner would completely quiet down when you pull in the clutch lever in neutral.

Try to ignore it, it is (very likely) normal with the KMs you posted (if accurate). All of my bikes (12 VF/VFR/Interceptor) do it to some extent, some more than others. It's the clutch basket rumbling without a load. That Gen seems to report it a little more than others it seems. It was a VERY COMMON question when I worked at the Honda Dealer. Oh, and your clutch lever is bent.

Like I said, the system works great. It's just overly complex and adds weight to a SPORT BIKE that is already heavy. And lots of un-sprung weight at that (front and rear), the worst kind. Let's mount a master cylinder to a fork slider. And 3 miles of hose and proportioning valves and fittings. But I guess they got the system so small, light and compact on the 8th Gen you don't even see it or know it's there. Oh wait...

Might try and get a ride on a 1998 to 2001. Gear driven cam goodness with FI. But regardless of how "great" the system works, I fucking HATE Linked Brakes. And yes, I've ridden with it on many different Honda models. It works great. Keep it on your Gold Wing, stay the fuck away from my VFR (and ST).

So many times, there needs to be a glossary of terms defined: turns on turned off started cranks spins runs died quit

I put 5W in my 4th Gen when I replaced the springs and set my fork oil height recently.

You didn't need to do full disassembly to set the fork oil height, just the springs need to be removed. And you had the forks off! It was the perfect time and can be done with something as simple as a chop stick, ruler and a sharpie. Re: Drain holes... cost.

Good fitment, flows with the lines nicely. That a pretty unique bracket system for the muffler camp too.

I'll add this... If you are doing fork fluid, you are likely doing your own oil changes. Do you just add what manual says is the capacity and not check your dipstick to verify oil "height" to ensure it is in the ideal range? I'm being a little dramatic, but the oil height (which also means remaining air volume) affects how the forks feel and act quite a bit. You can really dial in the front end for your weight and riding style with just a few millimeters less or more of oil. Right now you can't know how much oil you actually got out and where your oil height is. Sometimes manuals even list "after disassembly" and "after draining" amounts to get you in the ballpark.