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Showing most liked content since 02/22/18 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    A full stormtrooper outfit would be extremely safe, as they never hit anything...
  2. 4 points
    Just an out and about checking out the roads during what seems to be an epic season so far
  3. 3 points
    I love ABS. Going from 70mph to 0 between two rows of cars on wet and gravelly lane markings has a way of raising appreciation of the technology
  4. 2 points
    It looks like there are three fasteners attaching the heat shield, as per p.15-1 of the service manual (see below). I'm guessing that the top/middle one is giving you fits as it is the only one to attach to a tab on the frame. That means removing the footage off cannot help. Use some penetrating oil and take your time. As Auspanglish notes, locking pliers might help. If all else fails you can drill out the head of the fastener. What colour are you repainting it? I never liked the black finish and had it painted silver/grey on my long gone '99.
  5. 2 points
    Looks like we will not be able to hook up for the pre ride. We will be riding in the area just can't get the days/directions to work out. Based on this conversation I am probably to old anyway. We should be in the Franklin area by Wednesday.
  6. 2 points
    I almost never look at my gear indicator. Just more useless complication IMO. Used to not having one. I also very seldom forget to turn off turn signals. I'm usually awake when riding.....
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points

    From the album my trips

    Heading inland from Cambria, California on Cal-46 in 1994.

    © Lorne Black

  9. 2 points
    Thanks. old man squirrel learned somethin new today !
  10. 2 points
    Fark! I didn't realise acid rain was such a serious problem! ;-)
  11. 2 points
    Thanks HS, I imagine it was a royal pain in the ass to sort this out. We all appreciate your efforts to keep this site afloat.
  12. 2 points
    This is how I broke loose some airbox screws in my ST1100. Worked like a charm.
  13. 2 points
    I could not put this any better - wouldn't change a word. I'll never understand why some (many I suppose) don't get it.
  14. 2 points
    I have a 2007 RWB which I bought last year. What an incredible machine. Looks, sounds, presence and build quality. I wast just at the Toronto motorcycle show and to tell you the truth nothing in 2018 would make me want to sell my VFR except maybe a cbr11000RR but it does not have the all day comfort my VFR has. Need I say more. Nice pic GRUM. I've attached a pic of Freddie Spencer teaching on a VFR800 at his now defunct riding school in Vegas. Good enough for Freddie its good enough for me. LOL. Ride safe!
  15. 2 points
    Almost exactly 20 years ago I traded my VTR1000F for a spanking new VFR800. Both were first year models, and the first ones to arrive at my local shop. Over the years I've gone back and forth between VFRs and VTRs. It may be heresy to say so but my perfect bike would be a 5th/6th gen VFR with a VTR1000 motor. First pic is trade-in day, second is atop Sonora Pass, Cal., en route to the 1998 WSB races at Laguna Seca.
  16. 2 points
    If you are touring in the US, I highly recommend an AMA membership. Not so you can support lobbying, but you have a very inexpensive solution if you have a breakdown. On multi-day tours, I also carry a grunge brush and chain lube. Currently, I'm planning a 2300 mile trip in July, and know that my chain should be lubed every 500 miles. Since I'm going around Lake Superior, I'm planning on two-piece mesh gear with a rain liner and a polar fleece vest. Crossing into Canada means taking my passport and getting the Canadian version of my insurance card for the bike.
  17. 1 point
    From my post over at the other VFR Forum. I know you aren't looking for top end, but this is my experience with adding a map on my PCII: I have noticed a big increase in mid range too. Accelerating to pass someone on the freeway is a simple matter of twisting the throttle.
  18. 1 point
    Unfortunately I didn't do a thread for the trip, I did however take a lot of videos which I am in the middle of editing, will have to post some or put them on YouTube (don't hold your breath!!) If you ever get the chance to do a New Zealand road trip I highly recommend it, whoever designed these roads was definitely a motorcyclist!! And there is a world class motorcycle museum in Invercargill. Invercargill is also home to The Worlds Fastest Indian (of Burt Munroe fame) Renting the VFR was actually quite reasonable at NZ$112 a day, with unlimited kilometres. (2005 model with 80,000km on the clock) ran like a dream. I clocked up 4,300km in the 11 days I had it. Great roads, great wine and great food!! and the Kiwis are very friendly especially the biking fraternity. Attaching a couple more photos to wet your appetite. Both taken on the road to Milford Sound.
  19. 1 point
    Hmm, if I lived in an area so densely populated with wild moose or bear I think I'd be driving a bloody great truck rather than riding a motorcycle! Be careful out there.
  20. 1 point
    I recently drove through Iowa (ugh) and on a long stretch of nearly vacant interstate, there was a run over deer about every 100 to 150 yards. I would hate to travel that road often or at night. If you don't turn off your turn signals with discipline, cars behind you will give your signaling no credibility and start assuming what you will or won't do. It's a good way to get hurt. Also, what MaxSwell said.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks to Dr Demento.
  22. 1 point
    Just finished some touch up around the mirrors the rest is stock ,new demon sports and front fork bushings and seals, used a Gustafson shield, while it fit nice it didn't have the black around the bottom but I have since found a new screen with the black ,on the way, cleaned the carbs and installed a jet kit and it now purrs, also can't get my trip reset to work, will sent to Joel Levine and have him look at it, finally out of moth balls after a long hibernation!
  23. 1 point
    So I was on E Bay looking for some parts and I saw a vintage Hindle 4 into1 exhast system on the site, I let it sit for a while and saw the 80+ people watching it, after looking at the pictures of the corrosion on everything I decided to pass on it, Fast forward, I couldn’t help my self so I hit buy it now, after receiving it I was pleasantly surprised as the pipes were nickel plated and the muffler was just dusty, so I had the header ceramic coated in black and polished the muffler and am very pleased with the outcome, it’s my vintage bike so I wanted the vintage look, not a carbon fiber modern looking exhast,I think it looks great! I also bought on E Bay a right rear foot peg bracket and cut off the peg and contoured it so it’s the muffler hanger. Sorry to those who were watching the auction, You snooze you loose! I may sell my stock collector and the F-1 mufflers at some time not sure yet?
  24. 1 point
    OK Seb, thank you for that suggestion, I didn't want to step on your toes but if you have potential customers for your remaining sets then that makes great sense.. Skiddy
  25. 1 point
    New switch version around the corner that will have built-in LED's in push-buttons.Some wanted a simplified version with even smaller controller - so here you go Key features:-ECC will always stay ON - no more ON/OFF button.-middle MEMORY push-buton with green LED will inform that ECC is on and ready to go-upper SET/+ push-button with red LED will illuminate when the ECC is engaged.-lower RES/- push-button with STATUS red LED - it will indicate few things like: brake applied, clutch applied, pressed button, faulty conditions etc.
  26. 1 point
    Your method for testing the detent on steering head bearings is one I used when I heard a loud cracking noise from my front end on braking hard. There was an obvious notch in the centre position. With 40k on the bike I examined the steering head bearings when removing my forks for an oil change. Looked like original bearings with a little grungy grease on them. Didn't have time to replace the bearings so I lubed them. Once put back together the detent was gone and they perform as they should. Intend to put stiffer fork springs for my weight this year and will replace the steering head bearings at that time.
  27. 1 point
    I had the same issue with my 1200. Turned out to simply be a bad connection by the clutch lever. There are a couple of them there...make sure they are all secure and it might solve the problem for ya.
  28. 1 point
    knight designs installed...test ride in a few
  29. 1 point
    On normal stops you're probably safe enough, but relying on the rear brake is a bad habit that will bite you when you need a maximum performance stop. The rear will lock and you probably won''t have any feel for threshold on the front. I suggest practicing quick stops. In Msf and the Ohio cirriculum the process is reach, touch, squeeze on the front. Squeeze progressively all the way to stop. The rear brake should also be applied using light to lighter pressure. If you don't lighten the rear as you stop the rear will lock as weight transfers to the front. Remember, if thr rear does lock, keep it locked until you come to a complete stop. If the front locks, release immidieately. A one day Msf Basic rider course 2 mght be a great way to get some coaching whie you practice. Good luck! BTW:I typically get 2X rear pad life compared to the fronts
  30. 1 point
    Your welcome to use it but the word "jerky" is a negative term to the Honda engineers who labored long and hard and spent millions of yen to give us what we have grown to love namely instantaneous FI throttle response... they will tell you that its up to the rider to work on their technique... Makota san... HRC engineer and father of the VTEC VFR...
  31. 1 point
    I love it! Could be a good theft prevention method?
  32. 1 point
    Sounds like your 5th Gen's battery is about done, was it already weak before the cold weather arrived? All of the symptoms you listed are battery related. While the 5th Gen's PGM-FI ECU was pretty advanced for its time, I don't think they (Honda) included system voltage compensation for the coil dwell time (that sort of ignition control feature is a relatively recent development in both cars and motorcycles). So if your 5th Gen has a weak battery that's causing lower than normal system voltage the standard coil dwell time commanded by the ECU will not charge the coils well enough to get a good spark at the plugs.
  33. 1 point
    Took my new bike for a test ride at the weekend and I am so happy with it! Here I am at the Ponderosa Cafe near Llangollen, Wales. I am going to enjoy every minute on this bike!!!
  34. 1 point
    I rode my 8th Gen across Australia and back, last October. 10,000 kms. Mostly 500 to 600 km days, with a couple of 800km days thrown in. The bike was great. I would do the trip again tomorrow, if possible. I am closer to 70 than 60, so the body is a bit worn out. The bike has standard pegs, bars etc, with the lower seat. Comfort on the Viffer is probably a function of stature. I am only 5'7" or 1.7m. Yep, a short arse!
  35. 1 point
    I looked at the service manual, it does say to pay attention to the direction of bolt insertion but is silent on a reverse thread. I can't imagine any reason to use a reverse thread on these.
  36. 1 point
    Unfortunately the thermostat is buried deep in the "V" of the engine, under the Fuel Tank, Air Box and Throttle Body. Not an easy job but it has to be done, the bike will run so much better afterwards. 5th Gen thermostats always fail (eventually), but they don't all fail the same way. Some stick open, some stick closed, some develop a sticking (stopping) point short of either full open or full closed (or in between both). The resulting symptoms are sometimes hard to diagnose as thermostat related. You've got the most obvious case, and it's the worst case also. The VFR engine hates running cold. Good luck the the replacement. My advice (while you've got things disassembled) is to also replace the two short hoses that connect from the thermostat housing to the cylinder heads and replace the O-rings for the cylinder head connections. I refurbished a '99 a year ago (January-February of 2017), here's a forum thread of my work (with lots of pics and explanations) http://vfrworld.com/threads/refurbishing-my-99-5th-gen.52488/
  37. 1 point
    Looks amazing . Can't even tell . . Nice job . You can always vinyl wrap the whole bike if u don't like the colour
  38. 1 point
    I recently added a 2014 honda 8th gen rear hugger on my 6th gen . I was really surprised how easy the install went . Was worth every doller . This is a oem hugger. All I did was drilled and taped two holes on the top of the swing arm with my handy dewalt attachment . It was very easy . The item bolt size that you need to tap is M6
  39. 1 point
    I've got 5th gen 2001 147,000 miles.bought in 05 with 7 thou on bike. had 1998 and had put 70 thou.Great bikes . Most 5th gen riders have right foot and ankle at medium rare.
  40. 1 point
    Based on my experience with the 5th Gen I'm surprised that you could be having problems with "air pockets". I have purchased and refurbished two 5th Gens in the last year and a half (bought my '99 in October 2016 and my '01 in October 2017). As I mentioned I did a thorough refurbishment on both of these bikes and I remember being pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to completely refill the coolant. I barely even had to "top off" the system on either of the two bikes after the first run of the engine up to full operating temperature (when the thermostat opened for the first time after the coolant change). Your problem (or at least one of the contributing factors) sounds like a failed or failing radiator cap (not sealing properly so the cooling system can't run at its normal pressure). That's what's causing all of your venting and bubbling and boiling problems, and it also contributes to running hot.
  41. 1 point
    I wasn't being snippy at you Jhenley. When I said "you" I meant that in a general statement. I do fully understand what you're saying. I live in SoCal where there are A LOT of fast cars, trucks, SUV's, with uber-powerful engines, so I know what you mean about others being able to keep up. But that statement should be taken into context. Keep up with you WHERE? Twisties? Busy Freeway? City? Open interstate? The only venue these fast cars have a chance to beat a VFR is the open interstate IF they have the space and distance to do it. I remember seeing a video from Brazil where a loud-mouthed Audi R10 driver kept bragging that he beat two liter bikes on their freeway. Well yeah they were lucky to be alive! And his Audi top speed is probably above 190? While the liter bikes probably 186? Clearly he had the advantage. But if you saw the video it was obvious the Audi was on the ragged edge of causing a massive pile up! Truthfully, you won't encounter many Audi R10's. Further, look at the VFR800 roll on numbers from 45-65 then 65-85 or 65-100....one would need a twin turbo something to keep up (not pass). But once in the open those same cars will pull away at 140+ as the VFR reaches its top speed. That scenario won't happen often. 99% of the time you will be ahead on a VFR800 when you factor in other vehicles around you. The maneuverability of a sport bike is more than enough to keep fast cars at a distance in public roads MOST of the time. I'm sure Honda can make an 800cc V4 with 120 rwhp. But they're not willing to invest millions just to get that engine to pass emissions for a bike that's not going to sell so well. Like I said, even Ducati didn't think 120 rwhp was necessary on their SS. Even Kawasaki's Z1000 isn't flying off the showroom floor either!
  42. 1 point
    I'm a little more optimistic. With a title-winning motogp V4 I figure sooner or later Honda will come out with a high-end production sporting V4, whether they call it a VFR or not. With Ducati moving their production engine configuration in line with their motogp, maybe Honda will follow? In the meantime, I recently spotted an amazing Interceptor III prototype here in the Bay Area:
  43. 1 point
    I know, man. It's so weird to admit that while "we" all love it, I can understand why a lot of folks look at it and don't get the appeal. I couldn't say for sure, but if I had to guess, I'd bet the average VFR fan is over 40, a former sportbike rider who doesn't feel like riding a beast anymore, and someone who grew up loving the line. Sure, there's something special about the bike, character, etc etc, but anyone looking at it on paper or during a test ride in a vacuum would be hard pressed to say it is better than its competitors. Not that I give a damn; it's still the first bike I grab the keys for every day.
  44. 1 point
    I wonder if the whole V4 thing in a mass produced, mid price, street bike is even really viable anymore. It seems, to me, that today's I4 engines generate just as linear a power band, with less complexity and cost, whereas 10-15 years ago I'd say that the V4 really had an edge. I certainly could be wrong, though. I mean, if forced induction becomes a thing, a V4 certainly continues to make sense because it creates a natural space to locate the TC/SC. But other than that, I'm just not seeing the upside. I mean, I bought my '14 because I'd always wanted a VFR and because of the ridiculous discount I got on it. No way in hell would I have ever paid $12k for it. And even at the price I got, if I were not a long term fan of the VFR with disposable income and multiple bikes, I probably wouldn't have bought it -- I'd have bought a Kawasaki 1000 or something along those lines to commute on instead. And it's not just even the price, it's the performance -- the current engine is way underpowered for its displacement. The I4 in the GSXR 750, for example, puts out almost 30 more hp and 5 ft/lb of torque, AND manages to deliver that power just as low in the rpm range as the VFR does. And by the time you hit 5500 rpm or so, the GSXR engine is way ahead of the VFR. Honda's V4 used to be the showcase of the company's performance, but now, as much as I love mine, it really falls short to the competition. And it bums me out.
  45. 1 point
    I think if you can get them down to $4K and a new set of tires, you will have a great story of how a dealership paid you to store your bike!
  46. 1 point
    If the clutch is not releasing fully/easily when you let go of the lever, that might account for some slip, so as a first step I'd suggest doing a clutch fluid replacement and bleed. There is a very small return port in the master (under the small pressed in deflector plate in the floor of the reservoir) which can clog and prevent fluid pressure releasing from the line. You might also check that the clutch pushrod is moving freely, you can access this by pulling the slave cylinder off, then the pushrod can be pulled right out; if needed you can polish off any wear and grease it before installation. . If you have to do it, clutch plate replacement is not a terribly big job, and it can be done on the sidestand without draining the oil. You need a clutch cover gasket plus the plates, I used EBC CK plates and some new springs, and my clutch feels like new now.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Seb. I suppose putting it on a streetcorner here in CA w a sign reading "New York or Bust" might be counterproductive...
  48. 1 point
    You could probably buy another 06 VFR for not much more than $2500. I would suggest buying a replacement engine and either installing it yourself or having an independent shop install it for you. This will cost under $1000 with indy shop labor.
  49. 1 point
    Well, to follow-up. They ran a bore scope down the motor (spark plug holes) and showed me pictures. I couldn't make much out of it but they said there was a lack of carbon build on the intake valves (?) and this indicates damage? They also reset the timing and did a leak down test and found 10-15% loss across the back cylinders (I am probably paraphrasing and missing some wording here). They said this indicates damage as well. They insist the cylinders should be TDC on compression to avoid a load on the valves when removing any tension on the cam chain. I rechecked the service manual and nowhere does it say to do this. Doesn't mean it shouldn't but you would think they would. I asked about resting the timing and starting the bike and see what happens and they did not like this idea. Said it could cause further damage to cylinders and what not. Unfortunately, short of taking the bike back from them and working on it myself and I stuck going forward with the work to the tune of $2500! Just wanted to pass this along for anyone else that might commit to this work to watch what you do and don't make the mistake I made. Ciao' Matt
  50. 1 point
    Rechecked the manual and under the section for tensioner plunger removal/replacement, nowhere does it say the engine needs to be at a specific setting (i.e. TDC). That doesn't mean it shouldn't, but you would expect the Honda service manual to mention important details such as this. I am still completely mystified that this could happen. Even if the valves have pressure on them, to make the cam roll over without moving anything else seems awfully crazy. Again, for this not to be mentioned in the manual is killing me! Oh well, hopefully everyone else learns from this (I know I have!)

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