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Here is a sound bite of my '99 VFR800 at Phillip Island. Staintune slip on Powercommander Air box mods BMC air filter Wilbers front and rear suspension Brembo pads & disks Galfer braided lines Metzler M7s Sergeants seat MRA screen GiPro gear indicator smoked indicators LED taillight PAZZO levers Red Fox rear hugger and fender flick MCCruise cruise control Nickel plated rims and, black metallic paintwork on the levers, triple clamp, foot pegs, etc.

So in December 2019 I as family was to Teneriffe in Canarias for a 10 day vacation. During 3 days I have a 2019 (according VIN) BMW F750GS rented, and one of the days a local guided me the best roads on his FJ1200 Yamaha. Was great roads as views! I let the pictures tell: The local guy, that had modern wheels on his FJ1200 sure did use all of the tire! Front as rear tire in next pictures I did also enjoy other bike like activity, but have to say, even fun, riding a motorbike is more fun! For the bike I had rented, I must say the headers looked terrible for a 2019 bike whit 30k kms on the odo!

I’m sure the Tiger XCx is a great bike. But, I’m an unabashed Honda fanboy and will wait for the Africa Twin 800... until 2040 when they’re $2000 on Craigslist. 🙃

5.5" X 17 Rear. 3.5 X 17 Front.

Here my 50+ (gotta keep things vague..... women hate their age) gym girl riding pillion with Randy Looking forward to your pictures...

Thus begins my dive into foolish horsepower gains chasing with my 2014 VFR. Currently I have a 8th gen with: Slip on (s) various lengths, ect. RapidBike Racing with MyTuningBike and BlueBike mods along with the return to stock chip for dyno day. 520 converted drivetrain with a -1T front sprocket and lightened/crossdrilled rear sprocket. Some fiddle faddle from my olde 6th gen: Pair removal plates, Modified airbox with shorter, wider R6 stacks epoxied in. Just took delivery and bored-ly hand polished the new 5th/6th/8th header from the boys/wade on the forums. I very nearly have all the terminal hardware to do the big swap and go to the full header/airbox/autotune/timing boosted machine that CandyRed uses to great envy on my part. Considering there's a pump literally 100yards from base/home that has E85 I'm going to try to make a go for broke tune with more duty cycle and a bunch more timing to see if it makes a big difference. So it should definately rock & roll. Lemme know if you know of some places in socal that offer (cheap) dyno pulls with little to no diagnostic needs considering the RBR handles pretty much everything anyway.

Agreed, I would never intentionally use a Rick's...... either the FH020AA or SH847 is fine, although the 847 is physically larger and takes a bit of creativity to mount. While I 'm at skip the Vfrness too.

Happy Holidays, and Merry Christmas. Hope to see some of you at a vfrd event near you.

My last bike was an ‘88 Honda Hawk GT (647cc twin). Got her on Craigslist for $1900. The specs (58hp claimed, 39 ft-lbs) are similar to the CB500 series, but even lighter at 410 lbs full of fluids. ELF designed ProArm SSS just like our VFRs. It was fun to ring out in the twisties and effortless to ride around town. The lack of power and wind protection was annoying on the highways. That was the Hawk’s Achilles heel. I have to ride on 12 lane freeways for an hour to get to where these mid-weight bikes excel. So I’m weary of low powered bikes. Here she is 25 miles up the mountain parked next to a couple $15k Super Teneres. I had just as much fun if not more on the twisties, but the Super Teneres had an easier ride on the super slab with the semis. Bikes are all about their intended use and an exercise in compromise.

There is still some performance headers remaining for the 8g which will improve things. If you are interested pm sfdownhill or head over here https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88463-new-5th6th8th-gen-performance-header-now-in-production-in-usa/&do=findComment&comment=1103662

This is a long way out, and I have a conflict that weekend, but the conflict is motorcycle related about 2 hours away in NC (First Gen V4 group). So, if I'm not shipping out during this time I'll try to swing by for at least a beer, probably Thursday the 14th. That makes it a definite maybe :).

I changed my stock fan to the VTR fan, flushed the system , filled with Engine Ice and changed the thermostat switch to one that comes on at 180F, stock was about 190? 10 or more years ago when I also installed the A&A Perf supercharger. Hard to say for sure what difference the VTR fan made since I changed so much on the bike at once but I can say it doesn't overheat. I do recommend changing the thermostat while you have things apart though. I had one that would get stuck partially open once in awhile. While going down the highway at 70-80mph on a 70 deg day the bike started overheating. The next day the bike was fine without any service. Changed the thermostat and never happened again. Lets face it, these beauties are getting older. Ducnut....great work there....your bike looks great!

The rear can still be shimmed even higher. Just let the lower shock eyelet be your gauge. The Verge has a fairly pointy front profile, IIRC. It’s been a few years since I installed a set. But, I believe it to probably be the best tire in their lineup. Do you have easy access to most items and services where you’re at in Mexico?

Practical Sportsbikes/Performance Bikes September 2019 issue

The engineer at Honda who green lighted the combined braking system must have been a masochist, didn’t do his own maintenance or sold his personal motorcycles prior to a brake system tear down. I rebuilt all three calipers (cleaned the pistons, replaced all seals and boots, installed new pads) and the front master cylinder. I would have rebuilt the SMC and rear master cylinder had I known the amounts of disgusting sludge that was in the system. There’s also the delay valve and proportional control valve which aren’t even serviceable units. Short of pulling all the hydraulic lines and tubes and running hot water through it, following the bleeding process in the service manual is the only way to clean out all that sludge. And what a chore that was. I miss the two piston single caliper front with single piston rear brake on my Hawk GT. What an easy affair that would have been to rebuild.

The prodigal has returned...

I was the one who was all discombobulated so thanks for clearing things up Grum and sorry to spread my retardedness to you SF!

I just posted this because Bob is not actually on VFRD. He has posted this on FB as many of you will have seen. The rest of you...well I'll do what I can to help. If you don't have PayPal, I'll let me know and I'll see how Bob wants to handle it.

I'm ready to buy SFDOWNHILL... How do I go about placing the order? 8G

A Suzuki? Lets heat up the tar and pluck some feathers..... 😎

Thanks ducnut - this stuff? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evapo-Rust-Super-Safe-Water-Soluble-Rust-Remover-1l-US-Quart-Metal-Treatment/372703877184?epid=10029815681&hash=item56c6e1d840:g:J8wAAOSwi6tdHi4s https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REDKOTE-FUEL-TANK-LINER-FUELTANK-RED-KOTE-RED-KOTE-PETROL-DIESEL-TANK/113693306149?hash=item1a78a62d25:g:hnwAAOSwKOJYGlpJ

The vfrd header bungs are m18/1.5pitch.

Wonder if the exhaust also added heated seat? 🙂

That was the motivation. And just to do something different. The wheels also allow utilizing the same rotors (actually CBR600F2) and calipers and helps keep the scope of the swap smaller (especially on the rear). The 5.5 rear is tight and forces me into a 170, but I really didn't want to do another F2/3 swap, especially in white. Ugh... the RC26 wheels are getting a matte black treatment just because those stupid (awesome) wheels are a bitch to keep clean.

Which man? I've had panels matched by a preeminent shop who've done a half dozen SEMA cars, "sorry, can't use those codes, we'll need to start from scratch." My paint guy has 30 years in the business and now works part time at an automotive paint suppler business, "sorry, we tried everywhere, can't use those old codes." I used ColorRite here in the States, that was an expensive fail, and then they wouldn't even respond to my tactful complaint. I'm not familiar with RS, but if they have good matches that sure would be a blessing for someone trying to match up paint for their project. Here's another factor; the age of these bikes. I've got 12 RC24/26 large side OEM fairings hanging in the shop, there's probably four different shades of white. Age, sun, whatever. It ain't easy gettin' old, you start to fade. We recently did a 1998 VFR800 which has a useable code — didn't match and had to be tweaked, twice. I'm assuming that places like RS have figured out their own formulas, just like my guy has. My point is that the original codes are often just a starting point, and it would be prudent not to assume it's as easy as reciting a "code."

Congrats - new hardware always looks soooo nice 🙂 You would have a mess and brake fluid everywhere. Not recommended... If you did unfasten them just a tiny bit don't drive the bike! Any air entering would require servicing the brake and clutch system by an authorised Honda service center.

I'm running the FH020aa now, and if it ever wears out, I'll take the time to figure out a clean mount for SH847 on the OEM spot on my 5th gen.

Here's another Honda GP bike, again from Australian Motorcycle News. This time it's one of Eddie Lawson's 1989 NSR500s: Lawson's '89 NSR500 Very pretty, and pretty damned serious bit of kit.

I chose on the bottomside of my undertray. On my SV650S, I mounted it under the seat, in the storage area.

1st.. is the bike charging properly ? if yes.. leave it alone!! if no.. test it and rule out the stator.. if its bad, replace it.

SHES A BEAUTY.

Thanks so much for the input! - It is rubber. - Agreed, the caliper was only to provide a general size reference; without it, it's impossible to tell if the seal is tiny or massive, so I figured I'd throw it in. I took a more careful measurement, and it comes in at around 11 mm in OD. But this is after it split - I can easily see it being 10 when intact. - I took a more careful look at the fiche in the link I provided. According to that, the clutch rod seal at the back of the piston (#24) should be 18 mm in OD, which this one most definitely isn't. - The chain o-ring suggestion was an excellent one. Both flat faces are grooved, as is the outer curved surface. I took a look at the o-rings of the master link of my brand new chain and they look exactly like this. I then took a look at the old chain - it's missing o-rings everywhere! The bike was massively neglected by the last owner and the old chain looked awful, but still, I'm really surprised to see that. Looks like I've found the answer - thanks to this awesome community here.

Looks very much like an old Chain O Ring to me. Is it just rubber and about 10mm in dia? Your caliper isn't giving a good reading of size as it not touching the item! Assume it's around 10mm which matches the diameter of a chain O Ring. Nothing to worry about.

49 hp, 39 ft-lbs 😞 beginner bike specs. They should have made it a 700 twin with ~70 hp to compete with the Vstrom 650. Instead they have a gutless NX700. But, at least we can maybe expect to see a AT800/850 with hopefully ~85 hp. Something in the F850 class. What the hell is Honda doing these days other than producing a $184,000 1000cc V4 streetbike that makes 101 hp.🙄

Cogs, I agree, the ADV is another marketing tool ("everyone will think I'm on a three month trip to southern Chile"), not too different from CPA's convinced they are badass dudes on Harleys. Most ADV's never leave the pavement. And the beak is not a great styling choice! But yes, I ride an ADV, after 30+ years of continuous VFR ownership. So? My 2017 Multistrada is my current sport-tourer, just like my VFR's were. Similar hp, and I even run exactly the same tires as I did on my 7th gen, (Michelin Road 4's, same sizes front and rear). Slightly more comfortable riding position, but I use it in exactly the same way as I did my VF700, VFR800, and VFR1200F. It's a great all-around bike. Do not underestimate an extra 75% more suspension travel! It's great on the back roads. Modern electronics too ( I really do use and appreciate at least two of the ride modes, the TC, electronic suspension adjustment, and a few other bells and whistles). It weighs maybe 60 lbs less than my 7th gen, and about the same as my 6th gen. So...that's pretty much my defense of ADV's, hard to believe I wrote it! But--to me--my ADV is a sport-touring bike, that's how I use it. (however, there still is an old sporting Honda in my garage...)

Hi raYzerman. Not sure what you are on about here! Are you saying you shortened the length of your oil filter mounting boss? "Shaved material of the face of the hex" what hex, again are you referring to the oil filter mounting boss? Never heard of anyone needing to do that! For what it's worth, I've never had issues with HiFlo or OEM filters, and won't go near a K&N with the so called removal hex nut spot wielded to its cap. YMMV.

Fake RAM Mount Update I'd been playing with a fake RAM mount since last summer. (re: 23 July, 6 August). My homemade Erlenmeyer flask stopper stem mount wasn't great. Now I've found another odd bit that fits perfectly and so should do the job right. It's a leftover leg adjustment from a kitchen cabinet. One of these things: Since I stumbled onto this one in a junk drawer, I don't know exactly who sold it. I'm guessing Ikea. Of course, they come with your cabinets. But I'm thinking they must be generally available. Either that or I have a wonky cabinet somewhere... It attaches to the ball mount with just a bolt. And this is it on the bike with my voltage meter. It's high enough to be out of the way of the key. Low enough not to block the gauges. I think I can also spin it 180 degrees so it sits just above the tank. I forgot to check that clearance.

I recently acquired a 98, and I've had EXACTLY the same thoughts about the brakes. Lever stops the bike, but it's like trying to stop a freight train. Normal braking is fine, but it takes a surprising amount of pressure to incite "hard" braking. I suppose it's nice that it's not overly sensitive, but geez! I'm pulling so hard it's difficult to predict its limit. I'd rather have a shit ton of braking power with moderate pressure, and never have to resort to heavy lever pressure. Not very confidence inspiring as is. Pedal is STIFF, nearly non-responsive. Practically have to tip toe on it to feel decent amount of braking force. Challenging to modulate. My last bike (1988 Honda Hawk GT) seemed to have overly sensitive rear brake: grabby with light pedal pressure. Took a lot of getting used to on that rear brake. I have a set of EBCs, all 18 piston seals, boots and liter of brake fluid. Going to replace the front master cylinder as well. Hopefully, things will improve after the rebuild. I'm hoping I don't have to rebuild the rear MC, SMC or the PVC. Fingers crossed.

Slipping clutch? At the bottom the clutch fluid reservoir there is a small metal tab. This is a spatter guard. Underneath this in a small depression is a tiny hole which allows the fluid to re-enter the reservoir. When this becomes clogged the clutch will slip. Use a small pin to unclog this. Away you go! Always check this first.

Rothko revisited....... Well over 3 years ago I visited Dvinsk/Daugavpils as part of my "Ace of Spades" tour. Destination the Rothko centre as my wife loves his work. Saw my 1st Rothko there, sat there for a while just discovering the piece on display. A larger piece is on exhibition atm and the museum offered the possibility the be "alone with Rothko" for an hour prior to regular opening hours. The room all to yourself, I brought some of my favourite tunes as well.. With redslut R.I.P. it seemed fitting to take the SP vs train&bus, despite the light drizzle and low temps... Rotho produces captivating images no? And......... if the opportunity arrises.............. a windmill picture is called for!

Brand new heli bars in original packaging. HB01003-BA (black). $189 shipping included for lower 48. Payment via PayPal. Retail is $319, save $130! I have a pair installed on my 06, one of the best mods IMO. Thanks for looking.

I had a similar idea for a quick release CS. I was thinking of trying to find an appropriate size clevis pin to replace the bolt and secure it with a hitch pin or split pin. If you ever try to search ebay for a 6th Gen Rear Cushion (Thats the part that mounts the swingarm to the engine and what the CS is mounted to) they ALL have the right side bolt head broken off! LOL

Compare the VFR decals in these three pics. The first is from a UK-model black 1990 VFR750. Note how the decals differ: black for black VFRs is red for red VFRs and white for white VFRs. So these decals would look all wrong if not applied to the matching coloured body.

"I tinker, therefor I am" -René Descartes