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I wiped them out, looking at 2 point authorization for logging in.

My favourite across California's Sierra Nevada mountains is over Sonora Pass, aka Hwy 108. The best stretch is 25 miles between the US Marines mountain training base at the eastern end to Kennedy Meadows, just past the west winter gate. Great views, decent pavement, loads of lovely, well engineered curves, and the summit is more than 9600 feet/2900 metres. Like most of California's best motorcycling roads, Sonora Pass is lightly travelled. From US-395 to Sonora/Jamestown is about 80 miles. In 14 crossings I've only ridden eastward twice. I think it flows better westbound - ymmv. But I highly recommend fitting it into anytime your trip takes you nearby. Or better yet, cross the mountains back and forth over the other passes nearby. This video is from our trip to Monterey for the 2011 MotoGP races. I apologize for the Dutch angle, but now I double check to level the camera when the bike is vertical.

Great video Lorne. I agree, it is my favorite Sierra pass, but not by a whole lot! On weekend VFRD rides over the last decade we have generally traveled west to east--the long climb followed by the quick steep drop down to 395 after the summit. Then some barbecue for lunch and back over Monitor pass (last picture). Funny how the VFR's all stayed away from TC's Tenere:

I was watching the latest Missenden Flyer video yesterday and took notice of the Reader's Ride. It was a white 6th gen VFR belonging to our very own Lorne! Beautiful bike. It was funny though he wasn't familiar with the name Lorne and didn't know if you were "a bloke or a lady." Go to the 7:00 minute mark of the video

Good (chilly 🥶) evening to you all ! Another step achieved today. The first stage of the painting job is done. Nearly all white is there and a good bit of red has been sprayed. For the record, the tank has been etch-primed prior to high building. All plastic parts were first sprayed with a plastic promoter for safety, then a high build primer has been applied on all parts. After that a wet-on-wet primer has been sprayed before the final basecoat and lacquer. The primer phase Underbelly decal Final look The poor indicator who has seen the road a tiny bit to close 👀

Agreed.... and RIP Dardanelles which burned down 😞

Wow what a fun post. Just a small tip. You can tell how much a person understands about joining a new forum based on how they handle offering unsolicited advice.

Kudos for the technical ability and perseverance. I took the lazy man's route to more V power... 😁

I desided to have a compression test one more time, I have put a bit oil into the cylinder's last weekend, not much, one pull in the level of a oiling can, so today I first put the bike on central stand and turned the engine round from rear wheel slowly, then did the compression test. Before I used the adapter that screw into the sparkplug hole, but didn't feel it did screw in completely, even the treads suggest so So instead opted to use the rubber cone The results are completely different! I don't know what the actual reading should be, but to me this looks promising! I did actually test the screw in adapter on one cylinder to compare, and it did show about same readings as before, about 0,5 psi better perhaps. So the engine seems healthy to me, just the testing equipment was wrong before. So right back on track 😊

Yes, a 1962 Aermacchi 250 Ala Azzurra. Sold my Gilera 150. It is restored to "new", with a proper double leading shoe front brake for good measure. The original 160mm sleeps in my attic. Bought from a friend who owns a few more and 2 Indians too. He's a bit older and is winding down his riding days. He showed me around this type of engine, we checked/set the clearances on one. This pinhole must be clear! Linda Lovelace design.... 🙂 Needs a homemade tool

Personally, I can't wait to see the factory power unleashed.

I am a recent convert to Webike, and will sing their praises. It earned its spot in my Firefox quick-access bar. Here's some tips: - Dont order via sea freight, it does, in fact take forever to arrive... but it DOES arrive! - Be sure to toss in some other odds and ends into the cart too to save on shipping... Perhaps a hose, some gaskets, rubbers, filters, cush drive, or even throttle body boots. - Nissin radial master cylinders (brake & clutch) can be had for hundreds less than we can buy domestically. (I wish I knew this before I sent the Italians $400 for that darned RCS-19 🤬 Be sure to leave reviews after your purchase too! They hand you points (=money) for every review you do! Happy Shopping!

Yes... this... Was looking to match a front wheel I have.. --- found a rear... 😄

80k soon....

Just fixed this upper mount spigot with superglue and baking soda...worked a treat!

Hi Im Ron full Name RD Chinoy or Rohinton Dara Chinoy. In a matter of a day or two I will know if I get to join the VFR club or not. Owning a VFR has been a childhood dream for me. The closest I got to it in the past was owning a VF750. With very clean cams lol. The bike I may have in a few days is a VFR 800 6th gen. Im an automotive nut job. Have built honda VTEC race car engines for the Nationals. And rebuild Yamaha two strokes. I also run a club in my country called rddreams. Im known for my two stroke digital Ignitions. This is a 2002 honda VFR800 that Im trying to buy. And considering the bike is now over 22 years old. Im sure it has a lot of work to be done. There is some cam chain noise. (No this bike did not get the fix. ). The rear shock is shot and needs to be replaced. Yes I have a F4i honda shock. And can try rebuilding the shock if I can find decent quality oil seals for the stock unit. Springs I can have custom made. I did put in a F4i shock into my RZ350 and it worked really well. In addition to this. The exhaust is dented so I need to replace it. My daughter lives in the UK. So UK breakers and UK ebay is where I will be looking for parts. Im also looking for various small 2nd hand parts. That the bike needs. Also looking for info like what is the OBD protocol used. So I can hook up my Obd scanner. I use the DIY OBD Scanner with open source s/w. So if I could get the OBD codes for this bike. I can update the s/w. Also need info on stuff like does the ECU run closed loop all the time or only part of the time. And how much gas can be added or removed by the short term and long term fuel trims. Worst case Ill just pickup an old PC and use it. May do an adrino circuit that allows me to switch on and switch off the VTEC at RPMs I like. For the cars its simple. We do one dyno pull with the VTEC off. Then we do one pull with the VTEC on. Where the power lines intersect we set the VTEC open point. My work on this will be open source. And shared if we go down this route. There are under 10 VFRs in the country. So lets hope I get to buy this one. If the deal falls thru. I will just pick up a new Himalyan 450 from Royal Enfield. I plan to retire this year and spend my time touring the country on this bike. The ground clearance does worry me though as our roads are bad. Will post pics as soon as I get my paws on the bike. Right now its at the other end of the country.

Must be some voodoo stuff with spark plugs. Couple months ago had a guy in our riding group brought me his 2005 FZ1. It started stumbling and bumbling after he serviced it, which included new spark plugs. Bosch equivalent to NGK CR9E is what he used as suggested by the local shop. 😏 Checked the standard stuff and still missed and stumbled. Coils, wires and plug boots all good also. So suggested he get another set of plugs "just to try". He brought over a new set of Bosch, swapped those and still had the same issue. I was about the pull the carbs for inspection but my gut told me to try the proper NGK plugs. Success and bike runs as it should. NGK makes Japanese bikes happy !!

Merhaba! You my friend may always hijack my posts! I thought of you recently, seeing this proverb. Sign of the times eh? PS: I've recently sold my Gilera 150; the buyer is not intereseted in spares so I'm selling them off.

Hi Michael. Great news, have to admit, those Champion Plugs didn't give me a warm cozy feeling! Glad the NGK"s have done the trick, proof will be in the riding. The other good thing regards the NGK's is a 50,000 Mile life. Found this interesting snippet of info regarding the use of Non Resistor type plugs which the G59C's are... "Use of non-resistor plugs in vehicles that call for a resistor type can result in rough idling, high-rpm misfire, and abnormal combustion." Just some info regarding 5th Gen SV settings as the Service Manual is confusing, here are the ideal settings.... 1 = MASTER 2 = Match to No 1 3 = 20mmHg MORE than 1 4 = 10mmHg MORE then 1 Good Luck hope it all works out. Cheers.

Here's a collection of snapshots from some of our motorcycle trips over the past 20+ years. I haven't been able to get away since 2022 and have had to settle for living vicariously through trip accounts from the group here, as well as going through old photos & videos. Fingers' x'd that the stars will align for me in 2025.

Hi Bob. Looks like the original position of the hose was incorrect! and where you have it now IS correct. It also matches the hose routing per the Service Manual. See attached my 2014, hose in original position. Provided when lowering the tank the slack is taken up I've never had a problem with tank venting, after 100,000kms. Due to the internal spring loaded poppet type valve in the fuel cap, you should only ever experience very slight pressure or vacuum when opening the filler cap, the emphasis is.......... Slight.. Very strange to hear of a hole in the tank of a 2016 8gen. Seeing you're in Melbourne, trust you completely avoid Ethanol blended Fuel?

1999 Honda VFR800 36.7k miles Runs, shifts, rides great. Cosmetically challenged (previous owner left in carport, so right side plastics are sun faded. LCD screen has discoloration but still readable, small scratches here and there on fairings, tiny crack on LH nose fairing below turn signal, wheels are painted not powder coated and have some paint chipping, some scratches on tank from tank bag magnets) 8 spoke rear wheel and original wheel Custom Seth Laam seat and original seat Honda ST1300 tankpad, Tech spec grips Oxford heated grips USB outlet MOSFET R/R and Mellodude style connector Brake light modulator Yoshimura RS-3 stainless slip on (sounds great) and factory muffler I do have the solo cowl Givi V46 top box Givi tank bag (a little sun faded) KAPPA side and top box racks with Givi Monokey brackets RAM Mount in front of tank with X Grip small tablet size Burkhart mirror extenders 00+ mirrors Throttle lock Genmar risers Blue LED gauge lights PAIR delete Front tire is a 2016 Michelin PP3 and should be replaced soon due to age, rear is a ~2020 Dunlop Roadsmart 3 with plenty of life left. Also have Cortech GX Sport 3.0 2XL men's jacket I can throw in if interested. I've been honest about the bikes condition, it's ready to ride (with a front tire) anywhere you want, but it needs some cosmetic attention if you want it to look great. If you want to see plenty of pics of the bike, https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/its-time-for-all-dogs-to-be-dead.1086505/ Asking $2900 obo Barnwell, South Carolina I am open to defarkling the bike if there are accessories you're interested in, like the exhaust, 8 spoke rear wheel, Givi racks, etc. Shoot me an offer.

You have some interesting ideas about 'improving' the performance of the 6 Gen engine. I shall watch this space to see what you achieve where others seem to have stumbled before. A photo of the machine you intend to develop would be nice to prevent me thinking this is all a hallucination.

Sad to say but the Chinese faring's are shite.

The flappers in air-boxes exist for one purpose & one purpose only. To pass the noise emissions tests.

I need a dime... that's top of the line. Cute face, slim waist with a big behind.

Hi all.... Heres a quick pic and description Its had a few bits added.. Firestorm forks Fireblade brakes VFR800x (i think) rear wheel Full stainless system with high level pipe Lots of other little tweaks....

I much prefer the intake noise of my 2009 VFR with the flapper disabled (simply by removing the vacuum hose from the actuator and plugging the hose). My seat-of-the-pants dyno is insufficiently calibrated to detect any performance change.

Hi Si, I'm the organiser of the local VJMC group. We meet in Elswick, which is about 18 miles from you. We also do ride outs, and we pass by Lancaster quite a bit! Please contact me if you're interested. We have a VFR sub-group!

Nothing really wrong with a 2002, including mine, and I'm the original owner. Almost all VFRs will eat their stator eventually, and a 2002 can be upgraded to a 2003+ stator and flywheel easily...which is pretty much the only option anyway. As for updates, the only thing that significantly changed was the mapping of the VTEC transition and not much else, but a lot of us never had problems with the 2002-2005 in terms of VTEC transition. If that's one of the few available somewhere, I'd go for it and be prepared for the things you will have to fix on any VFR. That mostly means the electrical stuff anyway. Not sure what OP is looking at, but the VFR doesn't have valve timing advance. The RBR can control ignition timing in a pretty wide range on the 6th gen. Would definitely not buy one of these to be the fastest, but they are among the smoothest "all day long, real world fast" bikes out there. RBR is pretty sweet. Even better with a catless exhaust. VTEC in cars is completely different; VTEC on the VFRs is just switching between two and four valve operation.

A small update. Papers inspected. Sale deed closed. Payment made in full. Seller has 48 hours to ship bike to me. Failing which one of my club boys in that city will pickup the bike and keep it with him. Till I can fly in and ride it about a 800-1000 Kms to my home. On our roads thats like a 2 - 3 day trip. Else Ill have my mate load it on a truck and ship it to me. The dream gets closer.

All hail Grum! and phoenix655! My bike had finally gotten to the point where it wouldn't even start anymore, so I started with the easy stuff. Pulled the airbox, checked vacuum tubes and replaced the existing plugs (Champion G59C racing plugs, courtesy of the PO) with NGK Iridiums. Then called it a day. Went out to my garage this afternoon, and despite it hovering around freezing, figured I would try to start it. To my surprise, it started right up. I let it idle for a minute or two and blipped the throttle, it revved then died. I started it again and let it get to running temp and revved it up and let it return to idle, which it did. I have never seen such a dramatic change in a bike by simply swapping the plugs. Champion says their G59C's are compatible with a VFR, but my experience says I beg to differ. I am quite sure that a starter valve sync would probably still be a good idea as then I will have a datum to work from in the future. For now though, I'm just glad I can get it to start so I can sync the darn thing! Thank You everyone who responded and took the time to read and analyze my issue(s). I certainly never take anyone's efforts for granted. Regards Michael 1122241555.mp4

JH2RC3614MM10xxxx 46000Mi. $2000 Mileage has gone up; price has gone down on my very stock 1991 Honda VFR-750F Interceptor. It has: Owners manual, Honda Service Manual, Honda seat cowl, Honda center stand, cartridge forks from '95 model (stock forks included) Wilbers shock, Barnet clutch disks, Heli bar risers, front braided steel brake lines, EBC brake disks (stock disks included), Minor crack in left inner fairing. Minor scuff on left. Mailto:ted@volcano.net

Old skool ECU!!! 🤣 .

If you have all the bits, and the area with the broken bits does NOT support effort you can use PU glue,a fast acting 2 compenent glue that would solidify very quickly, they exist in transparent for discreet repair. If you can't do that melted staple might be a good option ? It's fairly easy to use, cheap, and pretty strong once finished. Most kits come with everything you need for several big repairs.

Looks like a great day Mohawk, and those custom VFRs are just fabulous. Stray on the red was obviously ahead of you in the photos,😂

That makes more sense. Very cool. Proceed!

First step is to lift the tank and fish out any PAIR system leftovers… Full tank had to be drained through the overflow to remove it. Easier to work on the bike with the tank out the way. Above, you can see how the breather hose slips into the overflow hose to make a good drain hose. Below is how to plug the drain spigot if you want to stop a full tank leaking. Simply loop the breather hose onto the spigot. All under-tank hoses are burned through and need replacing. They live in a hostile region next to the rear headers. What a pain it is getting the throttle bodies off. Even the world’s longest screwdriver couldn’t make this job easy. Look at all the burned up coolant marks and filth in the v area. Bet it hasn’t seen the light of day since it rolled out the factory 26 years ago! Started pulling off coolant hoses and coolant unions. Everything will be cleaned and refurbished with new o rings, stainless clamps and silicone hoses. Ports plugged with duct tape. Look at the state of that old o ring. Smooshed to a paste! The fun really began when removing the coolant hose union from the front bank. The lower bolt wouldn’t budge…until it snapped. Luckily there was a bit of the stud sticking out so I had a few options. First, a bit of heat from the small torch to loosen things up… But that didn’t work. So I JB Welsed a nutsert onto it and drilled a little hole for a captive pin. This should let me spin it off with a plumbing plier without damaging the threads… But that didn’t work. Then I tried the big torch…but that didn’t work. Then I tried cutting a slot on the end of the stud for a screwdriver…but that didn’t work. Pincers, mole grips, hammer and every tool I had didn’t work. Then I tried a stud extractor…and the mounting ear broke off the engine case. Now what?! That’s going to need a clever repair… All the tools used to remove that one bolt. Couple of torches off camera. Time to give the cooling system a good wash. First a soak with some dishwashing liquid and scrub with a stiff brush. Then a little visit to the dishwasher when nobody is home! Whilst I’m at it, may as well swap over the VTR fan blade into the VFR cooling fan. VTR fan in my hand here - note it has a halo ring whereas the VFR fan does not. For new members, the VTR blades are opposite to the VFR blades, so the blow air out of the engine bay instead of sucking air into it, which helps maintain airflow at low speeds. Slots straight in with just one nut to fasten. Look at the condition of these throttle body hoses. No wonder I had a leak! New silicone hose on the left and old NBR hose on the right. Gave the throttle body a good scrub with a stiff brush and some carb cleaner. Dirty bore before… …cleaner bore after. Then soaked the bores with a bit more carb cleaner to remove more stubborn deposits. Short bit of silicone hose with IKEA screw in one end to plug up the PAIR port in the throttle bodies. Ladt bits of PAIR system removed. Going to keep the actuator valve in case it throws a fault code, but its ports will be blocked. Professionally cleaned injectors to replace the existing ones. Have new seals and filters for these too. Refurbished injector on top ready for new seals fitted with silicone brake grease. On 5th gen’s the fuel rails have to be dismantled to access the inventors. Everything was thoroughly cleaned and new seals installed.

So Mohawk has kindly offered to show me around Donington Park race track on Halloween. And I thought, “better chase down that throttle body air leak so my bike runs smoothly. Don’t want to be embarrassed when Mohawk’s super-duper blue 5th gen rocks up”. Lifted the tank and thought I may as well do a few other little bits whilst I’m there…and then this happened! So chasing an air leak turned into: - rebuild throttle bodies with new hoses and serviced injectors - valve clearance adjustment - valve covers painted - remove last bits of PAIR system - swap out rear shock - refurbish and fit a set of catless 5th gen headers - rebuild cooling system with new silicone hoses and thermostat - one million other little things “whilst I’m in there…” Wish I could say it was straightforward but it certainly wasn’t. Every step was a nightmare, including cooling lugs snapped off the block (and need to be welded back on), grinding custom exhaust crush gaskets, wrong valve shims being sent 3 times (seriously!) and more. I’ll detail the steps in the next couple posts if you’re interested. Hoping to have it all back together in time for Mohawk and Donington Park!

I too took the lazy man's route. By lying on my bed dreaming about prototype power........ Hope springs eternal and all that.

I might suggest other brands to try a p/n search variance. Vesrah, Galfer, etc.

I've just repaired the mounting lug to the upper fairing/dash cover,the small triangle ones. The spigot had snapped away from the fairing from a previous repair and had been incorrectly lined up. Upon tightening the 5mmx16mm screw into the triangle piece the angle off the threaded brass insert was way off and tension pulled the spigot and lump of old glue clean off. Having tidied the spigot up and ascertaining the correct angle I used good old super glue and baking soda. It's now spot on for alignment of the cover screw hole and is stuck like shite to a blanket. I've recently repaired the spigot which holds the brass insert for the upper cowl/dash side covers. Previous resin type repair had failed due to misalignment and broke away the fitting. I used super glue and baking soda to reattach the spigot at the correct angle to the fairing bracket. Stuck like shit to a blanket now👍

Yep it's definitely NOT a coating. Here's one I cut out of a scrap crankcase years ago. Forgot it was on my bench 😂 Plus a close up of the missing bit, which I found whilst looking for something completely different 🤷‍♀️