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wow is right, started this thing in 2002 on some forum platform that no longer exists too. registered a real website 2003, thanks for sticking around for so long!

Shoot! I missed my 20yr Anniversary! Joined November 16, 2005. Wow.

Hello everyone! The name's Chris. Been lurking around these parts for a couple years since I got my 2008 Viffer back in 2023. I'm located in Singapore, where the VFR population is slightly under a 100 (we have exactly 1 known 8th gen here). Currently in the midst of doing a front end swap to take the 8th gen lower and doing a handlebar swap to replace the clip-ons. Had a Laser Deeptone installed but the super strict Land Transport Authority here almost fined me since I didn't have any legal documentation to get it approved. Looking forward to learning more and meeting more Viffer owners! Picture of my stallion below!

Just back from a sun-drenched, twisty road test of about 280km. The verdict? Totally worth it. Although the spring is notably stiffer when you bounce on it, this translates to much less unneeded suspension movement on dips so the net effect is to absorb bumps better and keep the chassis much steadier in bumpy turns. It is also more comfortable, and of course confidence-inspiring. $usp$pension upgrade$ - the best money you can spend!

I was late to this party also, having only joined in 2011. But I have been enjoying Honda's best engine configuration since my new VF500F in 1984, of the 28 bikes that I have owned, 16 have been V4s. I'm only up for an Ivory gift this year.

Captain, you made me look. 2005 also! Thank you and thank you again Miguel, a great site, no ads, and a knowledgeable and respectful group. Not only have I learned a massive amount from those here with more skill and knowledge than me, but when I moved to CA 12 years ago I immediately had a group of VFR riding buddies, who knew all the great roads and who I could almost keep up with. Much appreciated.

Today was the continuing saga of the DMr shock absorber. In May I spotted a used item on eBay, recognised correctly as DMr-modified CBR600 shock, and bought it for not too much money. When it arrived, it was a bit oily and when I fitted it up, was apparent that it was free of damping (little oil/gas) far too hard (wrong spring) and a bit short. EBay refunded my purchase but I lost the freight. Jamie advised what I needed to do, and a local shop quoted me more than NZ$1000 to swap the spring, replace the seals, re-oil and regas. Jamie offered to do that for about half, so I shipped the shock to him. Unfortunately due to misplaced honesty, our post office decided the shock was a prohibited item, held it for 8 weeks, then returned it to me with lot of DANGER/EXPLOSIVE type placarding. Morons. And I lost the freight that I had paid. Again. Then I had a chance encounted with an old mate now running a mountain bike suspension business in a nearby town, we got talking and he agreed to do the rebuild for me, so I got the parts shipped from Jamie, and had Norm do the rebuild. Norm took his time and so many, many months have passed since I ordered the shock. Jamie supplied a new spring, seals, piston, shims, and a modified clevis (to correct the length). Today was Der Tag, I got the spanners out and fitted the rebuilt shock to Sakura. That short sentence does not tell about the finger trapping, knuckle scraping, knee breaking and sweat-inducing work that probably takes a mildly skilled Honda employee about 30 seconds on the production line, but took me more like 4 hours. Does it work? Is it worth all the effort? No idea...it is hosing down outside and I have no interest in getting wet. Stand by for next weekend!

Somebody upstairs must like VFRs, as this morning has been another beautiful day, although when it got to 26C it was a little warm. Earl and I have a had a great 300km run around the twisty roads. The new front tyre has transformed the steering and while still "on rails", there is now neutral feel and swift turn-in, which is very reassuring and just like my other VFRs. I did a forbidden thing and combined a new Bridgestone front and an old Michelin rear; it didn't explode! I have been adding more rear ride height now the adjuster is working and there's a lot of ground clearance for my feet/pegs now. The 1200's engine is pretty amazing with smooth locomotive drive out of bends that is pretty addictive and has a nice bark when the flap opens at 4k. I discovered that my new centrestand will make ground contact occasionally but I think that will be self-correcting as it gets a bit chamfered; touchdowns were only on cornering dips. The shaft drive oil leak is banished and the rear wheel no longer looks like there is a chain drive hidden somewhere. However oil is weeping from the left fork seal, something I feared may happen due to the corrosion pits that are on the stanchion. I am going to use some JB Weld and see if I can't smooth those off enough when I fit a new seal. I have received a new front sub-frame from Aliexpress; I can't comment on the fit yet but it certainly looks the business and wasn't expensive. When riding I can see the dash is pushed to the right compared to the forks, and I think the current subframe is bent, but until I do a full strip that won't be certain.

White wheels matter! Easy to wipe over with powder coating on them. A good supply of wet wipes in the shed keeps the Mrs' guessing too 😉

My VFRD 20th is coming up in a few months, next May. Although it also falls on my wedding anniversary, so as far as she knows, that's why the day is special.

I was late to the party I guess (8/2010), but making up for lost time. I have owned 4 of these wonderful machines, and still have 2 of 'em. Thanks Miguel.

D'oh! A few days after your's was my 20th, which I also missed. Though I wasn't active the whole time when I dropped out. Many thanks to Miguel for creating & maintaining this little playground for us.

No explanation needed. 😁 Yes, they are real, Haynes really did publish them in 2017. Yes they are hilarious. Gift from my brother. I worked in Germany for about a year, also in France for a bit less in shipyards, building or hauling out for work. Apparently, there is a volume on Americans also.😁

Hi I decided to sell my Honda vfr800fi/5th gen the previous owner had it for 23years I believe it has done 23,500 miles and is in amazing condition . It has ohlins rear shock with remote/ front forks ohlins springs , harris carbon chain guard/ power commander /healtech gear indicator/scott oiler /gilles footrest/gilles bar risers /mra screen that’s new and a blue flame exhaust/stainless down pipes , oxford heated grips Goodrich complete hoses throughout. All the original parts I also have the original full system is in as new condition footrest/bars/chain guards all the plus a tank bag . It’s really something special, the last owners had a Honda vfr work shop manual dealers use and he was an engineer and kept a book detailing everything item/ service done . If anyone is interested in buying one of the best in the u.k send me a PM please . bike is now sold

Well I had time as energy to mount the rear Tire I bought for the Transalp, a Metzeler Karoo 4 I must say I like the details Metzeler put into the tires Had plans to go to my favorite cafe on Saturday, as forecast was sunny and about+5°C but Friday afternoon weather was like this VID_20251114_161330005.mp4 So weather turned colder than normal as came snow that was not forecast, so Saturday all roads where slick of ice..... But today Sunday the weather was as forecast to Saturday! Life smile again And in end of ride in for a wash So now clean for winter sleep I believe this was last ride of season most likely

Earl may be getting renamed Öldicht! (a poor pun for my German-reading friends) as he is no longer weeping fluids from either end. We had a little 150km shake-down run after the recent work, the forks are now weep-free (for now) and the shaft likewise is keeping its oil inside. Earl is running famously well, handling nicely but the centrestand came under attack again. The new front subframe has made no real difference and is still sitting a bit to the right which means the tabs on the frame are bent and I am not touching those...The new LED lights make him look a little more modern. For S&G I disconnected the cable from the exhaust flap actuator, and have to say the soundtrack is much improved, with a nice smooth rumble at low revs now. Take that, noise police!

I'm too scared to open that link on my work computer, but I was quite taken with Pete "Maverick" Mitchell's accommodation in the last Top Gun...

I fitted the new subframe this afternoon, it seems to be a perfect replacement for the OEM part but only cost me US$32! Slightly chunkier where the mirrors bolt on but no fit issue. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003502147870.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.18021802LJhFE2 I think it is straight now, the bodywork seems to be sitting better, and I found more missing fasteners under the hood; how hard is it to keep these together people? I also put in some LED H7 bulbs (also Aliexpress specials) and just need to check the low beam aim, but the pattern looks decent. And just for gits and shiggles, I also programmed my spare key. This is no big deal for you people of the Trump Empire, but the rest of us have the chipped key/HISS system, and if you lose your last key, you are sh1t out of luck and can never get a new working key without buying a new ECU. There' s good guide on this here website which I followed and had a happy outcome.

Probably should have mentioned this earlier but, to be clear, I ride with my feet on the top of the pegs.

Hey everyone, I just picked up this 1986 VFR750 for $1500 and the previous owner was nice enough to tow it back to my place for just a tank of gas! The bike has around 45k miles. Short term plan: - Battery. - Install the rebuilt clutch lever. - Sight glasses. - Clutch fluid refill and bleed. - Basic fluids change. - Figure out why the seat won’t latch all the way because I can just pull it up and hear it un-click. - Install new cowl with mirror holes and mirrors. Long term plan: - Restore to original color and graphics. - Possibly strip to bare frame and restore due to some surface rust showing in some places. This is all the photos I have so far since it’s been a busy holiday weekend! I’ll include future updates! Hope to keep this Honda forever! Anyone else in the Pacific Northwest?!

2005 was my year as well. I had a '94 that some Gomer totaled and I was looking for a replacement. I joined to communicate with folks that had 5th gens for sale, as there were no 5th gens to be had on the island. One of the better decisions of my life.

No longer living in a store-it-for-the-winter locale, but here's a couple things: -do not do the "running for a few minutes" no matter how tempting. Either ride it for 20-30 minutes minimum to boil out all the crankcase moisture, or let it sit. (I get that you ran it to move the stabilizer into the fuel system) -change the oil just before storing in the fall. Others will chime in but I think you're good. Seems like half the threads here now are restoring bikes left outside or in a barn!

Much more confident in water integrity after filling the pock marks with JB Weld.

They look the part. They also look directly at your elbow. I don't care, if I want to see what's directly behind me I either dip or lift my elbow. But in general use, I can see what car is behind and where my buddies are.

I just turned it off, it seems all the services turned us off in order to force me to go to a cloud based system of checking API keys. With a new fee of course, all of them are charging rediculous fees now. I switched between 3 different captua services in the last few months and they are all now following the same model with some complicated server side code additions you have to include. Cloud keys with prices that rival the rest of my major vfrd purchases. SUCKAMUNDO Google! Turnstyle, and the others started out free then bam - $300 a month fees? Its a shakedown Thanks Slo and others for trying to bring it to my attention, but I was aware just trying to squeeze every bit of free bot protection I could get its just these services keep pulling the rug out from underneath me. I turned it off for now until I can find something more reasonable, I turned on some other security offered by the licence I already paid for. I hate asking for donations for stupid shit like this, as nothing is free but it would be nice to just not have the rug pulled out from under us for new pay for use services that did not exist before now.

I use 3:1 ratio, 3/4" heat shrink for marine electrical cables. It has an adhesive that gets activated when you heat it for shrinking and seals the line for protection. It's big enough to get over the banjo fitting but shrinks up for a nice look. You have to use the "HIGH" setting on the heat gun and slowly work your way from the center out to the ends, rotating the line over the gun as you go. Trim it about an 1/8" short and you can pull/stretch it out to where you want it when everything is still warm. If you go long and try to push it shorter, it will wrinkle up a bit. Even if the brake line is in good condition I still do this for rub protection and it looks good to me. Especially if you are trying to maintain a more stock look. I use the 1/2" version on the remote res hose when I have shocks rebuilt too.

Balance Beads are a silly thing...

If it is from the NR750, the locating pins are probably oval not round...

Earl and I completed another test run today, about 350km of the best bumpy and twisty roads that I know of close to home. He passed with flying colours although the forks bottomed a couple of times and I lost count of the centrestand clashes on dippy bends, but they seem to be lessening (as is the centrestand). The forks and shaft have remained leak free! I remain highly impressed with the chassis and braking, and the ground clearance has also been untroubled although I have been edge-to-edge on the Road5 rear tyre. Even the fuel economy was suprisingly decent at 17km/L.

It will not be as bright as this. I will spray a charcoal metallic grey base coat to tone it down and the clear coat will mellow it a bit too. It's not a traditional bronze and it's not a "gold". I think it will really work with the custom paint (that has extra gold flake) and custom graphics. And if it doesn't... oh well. I'll just shoot another set of wheels in another experiment. The stock wheels are going to be wrapped and boxed. Here's a couple more shots of these 92 wheels that I just love. Dark Bronze Mist Metallic over that Bronze base with three coats of clear.

But...

Ooh, inquiring minds want to know 😉 Looking forward to your verdict, and some pics of the test ride.

My buddy built that bike with my help, just down the road from me. It is solid. Not sure what it might need from sitting now for a couple years. The only thing I knew it needed when I sold it for him was one of the fork seals was starting to leak. The shock has been rebuilt by DMr and had a longer res hose installed. Probabaly has 1000 miles max on it. Pretty sure we put 1.0 straight rate springs in the front. It did not get Emulators. The carbs have aluminum cross over tubes with all new o-rings and viton float bowl o-rings. New clutch and springs, new brakes and new chain and sprockets. Brakes are probably fork oil soaked by now. He did new seals when he built the bike but must have picked up a rock ding or something. Oh and pretty damn sure tapered steering bearings were installed. New Bridgestone BT45 were installed. He got rid of the stock mirror holes in the cowl. That was simply a personal thing he did, it wasn't from crashing. The lowers are either Cobalt Racing fiberglass (aka VFR Chuck Crites) or Meier Mfg ABS. Both are very good aftermarket versions. It should have a new seat cover. Toggle switches on the left are fan and fuel cut override on my recommendation. It ran, shifted, charged and stopped perfectly when I sold it. The only reason he sold it was his old ship wright knees couldn't take it any longer. I had a hunch that was the bike when I saw a small pic over on VFRW. Was the seller's name Stewart? I know the he barely rode it after purchasing it, but said that he loved it.

The RC36-II actually has a pretty decent header system on it compared to the RC36-I chamber. I installed the later system on my 92 and def realized gains. That being said, I would absolutely expect some gains from one of the Tyga full systems over stock if the carbs were properly jetted to take advantage. But if the drop dead good looks of that system combined with the heavenly noises it is going to make is enough to make you happy... fucking go for it. Please let me live vicariously thru you. I don't remember any reviews of anybody here, or over on VFRW, doing this. GODDAMM

I Banned the guy......

After years of using Hazard Fraught stick on weights and static balance, I tried balance beads for the first time on my 1800 cruiser last tire change before a cross country run. I poured in amount recommended in pamphlet by motorcycle tire size (2oz front and rear), even used one of those tiny Walter White scales to get the measurement. Cruiser has been doing this weird wiggle shimmy on acceleration since. Especially disconcerting leaving a light for a left turn. Around 24-35 mph, but then everything quickly smooths out. Interstate speeds absolutely flying is butter, no problems. I've been looking at this more closely since getting back from my trip a few weeks ago. The wobble definitely felt like a wayward mass that was distributing out at speed (how the beads work) but besides balance beads, looking at other possible causes. Running 65L top trunk, but I was before the beads and this shimmy wasn't there. Front steering bearing preload could use a little snug up. With bike on a stand, font tire falls too easily to the stops and bounces one too many times, but it's not like the steering stem is flopping around in the head. Bike is currently at 122K miles, and I don't think bearing preload has changed significantly just for this last tire set. I'll get some lock washers on order and tackle this winter. 1800 has the nice bearings from the factory that 1300 owners upgrade to. Rear shock bushings are toast, and they have been forever, lol. I have parts on order for this fix, but again no shimmy before beads. Well, rear tire was at wear bars and rear brake pads down, so I replaced all yesterday. No beads this time, just the static balance and stick on weights. While I had the Rabaconda out, I ripped off the front wheel, broke the beads and pulled one side over the wheel. Vacuumed out the beads, reset everything and did static balance.. back on the bike. This morning commute on the cruiser, no shimmy shake on acceleration. Not a hint. Guess it was the beads. Now I'm sure some bead fans are gonna say "2oz?! That's way too much". So what? 1.85 oz for slightly less shimmy, 1.5oz maybe not enough and I get vibration at speed? No thanks, I'll stay with the static balance.

Like every guy, I can't help myself now that I've been researching and shopping. This may be a long post. Ratchets: My super fancy ones from Craftsman (1985ish), as it turns out...are 36T. I ordered a set of ratchets only last night on what I think is a smoking deal. I don't care that they'll scratch. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100-Position-Ratchet-Set-5-Piece-H1005PCRAT/305011095 From reviews, they'll require immediate disassembly, clean, and 30W oil...and will then be perfection. I thought about the 144T but having lived with 36T for my whole life...these will be great. Did I mention cheap...and free shipping! Two of my favorite tools ever are spring hooks. I can't tell you how many times they've saved my bacon...rarely puling springs, but more reaching into holes to retrieve or bend something. I used them the other night down inside of my subwoofer fuse holder to bend the tang back up so that it would make contact, and power again! https://www.zoro.com/moody-tool-heavy-spring-tool-pull-9-12-in-51-1855/i/G0846711/ and https://www.zoro.com/moody-tool-spring-tool-hook-and-lifter-8-12-in-51-1850/i/G0801665 I've been trying to score one of my other favorite tools, but no luck so far on fleabay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/357920387448 I'm not a Snap-On fan, but do love this bad boy. They also make a stubby version and super long version that I don't need. Milwaukee boogered up one of my other products and can't get a replacement, so they're sending me this for free. It was on the list anyway! SCORE! https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/48-22-9004 Gave in on the big set of ratcheting wrenches too. Hope to pick these up next week. Seems like a fair deal to me. https://www.northerntool.com/products/gearwrench-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-and-metric-32-pc-57746 After discovering that I have never used many of my big 1/2" sockets, I decided to hunt for deal on the three I use, 22mm, 24mm, and 32mm. With deals, I found each for almost nothing. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/45-34-9123 and https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/45-34-9125 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DK7X2N6?ref_=pe_123509780_1038749300_t_fed_asin_title&th=1 And I realized that I only ever use a 5/8" spark plug wrench and on another deal, picked up: https://www.northerntool.com/products/milwaukee-3-8in-drive-5-8in-magentic-spark-plug-socket-drive-size-5-8-in-model-48-22-9552-6102884 Not worth $20, but worth $10! Trying to decide on these. I love my old Craftsman set. Thoughts, anyone? https://www.sears.com/craftsman-17-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931794000P Discovered that I own two of quite a few things, so will have one in each location, also making some space around here. Leaf blower, Dremel and bits, etc. Lastly (for now!), back in the day, tools didn't have cases, hence the toolboxes. Most of these items have their own cases and could just go on a shelf. Did I buy "too much" toolbox? This has been fun...

Translation: Balance Beads should not be a thing.

Hay D. Small bore pipe from left side of rear cyl head pipe union feeds the lower port of wax fast idle unit, this is "INLET". Small bore pipe with tight U-bend from stat housing feeds the upper port of fast idle wax unit, this is "OUTLET". Both pipes route up thru centre of throttle body assembly direct to wax unit. Ensure wax unit is not blocked (common issue).

You doing all this and don't have a "1998 - 2001" version of the service manual laying around?

I used road 6 for three seasons. Solid tire but after reading the favorable reviews on Dunlops I switched. The bike is in fact more agile with dunlops than it ever was with michelins. I chose the GT variant of roadsmart 4 as that's what's recommended for the VFR on their website. Their explanation is GT for heavy bikes with a sharper profile for more agility and SP for light bikes with a duller profile for more stability. I didn't notice any instability with the dunlops, only good agility. My bike has a YSS shock with lenght adjustment so it sits higher in the rear further increasing agility, again with no downsides of instability. I've taken it to top speed, rode in crosswinds etc. Stable as you want it to be in a straight line with a positive agility when you initiate a turn in. A nice addition is braking agility, the bike can still swerve at moderate braking which was very hard to do on the Road 6. Also slowing down mid corner doesn't upright the bike at all, you can easily add a bit of braking mid turn to tighten the corner, even at very high lean angles. I'm very happy with the switch and I'll keep using dunlops for now until something better is released. Road 6 and Roadsmart 4 are the best sport touring tires currently with my vote going to the Dunlops because of the agility which a VFR really needs.

Yeah, did all of that, thanks for the advice; used insulation tape wrapped around the stanchion where the upper bushing sits, and coated the new oil and dust seals with red rubber grease. This time around I have used some fancy SKF seals, and I have spent a good amount of time with the 400-grit paper on the pits. Installation was really easy using a neato fork seal driver that I bought from Aliexpress ($22!). I re-used my home-built fork spring compressor; it's a little agricultural and consists of two 900mm lengths of 90x22 decking timber with a 50mm joiner length screwed in at one end to make a U; then two bolts are screwed in about 300mm from the joiner projecting in to catch the holes in the plastic preload spacer. I put a ratchet strap through the axle hole and tie it around the joiner and ratchet that until the wood points up. I now just push down on the ends of the wood and can easily compress the spring to reach the damper rod bolt. I did buy one of those handy forked plates that slip under the damper locknut and hold everything still so you can refit the fork cap which makes this less of a three-handed task. I also bought the supposedly correct tool to compress the springs but my trebuchet design is much easier to use!

Mount em. Park it outside, bike on side stand, bars a little to the right. Walk a bit away and take a look. Sip that beer. I think they are trick and your bike is not stock.

I use these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-sy5002-white-black-pressure-sprayer-5ltr/7490x 1 for engine oil. 1 for trans oil (ATF). 1 for coolant. 1 for diluted car shampoo. For oil filling, just remove lance & you're good to go, no messing about with funnels & they pump uphill. Label em, or it's OMG WTF did I just do. B&Q do a variety of PVC hose or eBay, I prefer clear hose on my fillers. Also have a hand pump vacuum bottle 3ltr for (Dot 4). Save a ton of mess for little outlay.

Based on the experience with my own 1200, the preload adjuster on the shock may have lost its fluid; I don't know where it goes, but the same happens on the ST1300 that uses a similar hydraulic preload adjuster setup. You can tell for sure if you wind the adjuster right out to minimum and then start winding in until you hit some strong resistance. If its more than 1/2 to 1 turn, then the adjuster has lost oil. With little or no oil, the back of the bike will sit much lower than it should and make steering feel very lazy. Fixing this is no big deal: Loosen the banjo bolt while the adjuster is still mounted, then remove the adjuster from its frame mount. Now remove the banjo fully (keep a rag handy) and keep the open hose as high as you can so you don't drain the hose. Take the adjuster and wind the knob right out, then push the piston in as far as you can through the banjo hole using a blunt tool (e.g. allen key end); drain any old oil out Fill the adjuster carefully (I used a small syringe) with oil and let any bubbles rise and top-off, I had fork oil handy so used that. Reconnect the banjo and snug it down, then wind the preload fully in, then fully back out; this encourages any air to come back from the cylinder on the shock to the adjuster. Now repeat the adjuster removal, piston movement and refilling, let bubbles out, top-off, and reassemble the parts. With this done, I can now see a whole cm of the spring collar moved out of the hydraulic cylinder on the shock that was not there before, and the bike has a much better rear attitude. In conjunction with a new front tyre, my 1200 is now a great handling bike. Note that none of the above affects the oil inside the shock absorber, just the oil in the hydraulic preload adjuster.

Hi Cam. The coating on butterfly edges will flake off at some point, manual states it's an important feature for sealing & never use brake cleaner, I've cleaned dozens of Honda throttle bodies, butterflies & throttle body inlets out with paper towel soaked in brake cleaner, never affected the coating, your's look filthy & defo in need of a good fettle. What air filter are you using? it's not doing a great job. Throttle stop screw is factory set, ensure all 4 butterflies fully close & aren't being held open in anyway, butterflies need to be fully closed during a cold start crank, if they're held open in any way, you'll have issues with a cold start, never touch throttle on a cold start, this is what starter valves are for, allows an amount air to bypass butterflies, make sure all vac pipes are in good order or you'll get nowhere. Ensure all starter valves can be wound fully in & out or you'll get nowhere, idle adjuster screw accessed through the right side frame rail only affects all 4 starter valves for a fast idle. Once all the above is good, then you can adjust starter valves, sequence is shown in manual, many don't understand how to read vac gauges, if you've any doubts, there's a few vids on Youtube that might help. You've not stated which year bike you're dealing with, early 5th Gen uses a bar mounted/cable for fast idle, late 5th Gen use the crappy wax unit that is problematic.

When my 95 needs new tires I'm going to give it a shot. I have an 8-spoke and an extra front wheel that will get a bronze I found. I think it will pop with this bodywork. I shot it as a base coat for the color on the 92 wheels, so I was able to see it briefly on the same wheels. I have a shot of it somewhere before the final color and clear coats.

edit: should have mentioned Maine's theme...a thorn amongst the roses. TC's Tenere amongst the 5th and 7th gens. They all moved away from the Yamaha... 😎