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I have been a confirmed fifth gen owner for many years, but recently a 2009 which had sat on the local auction site reached my "buy now" level. The bike has 85000km, and the PO had parked it in 2022 after an inspection failure due to thin front discs. I just so happen to have a complete set of near-new lovely gold wheels with discs that I bought speculatively 5 years ago. The bike also has the dreaded cam chain rattle at low revs, a cracked windscreen, leaking fork seals and very minor stationery drop damage, but the seller put zero effort into resolving any of those or even cleaning the bike for photos (or possibly at all, during his ownership...). His loss, my gain! I collected the bike last night and survived a chilly ride home which did not reveal any unexpected faults aside from weird handling due to low tyre pressures. I'm looking forward to peeling off the covers and giving this dirty bike a good scrubbing, and then setting to rectifying the faults. I am planning on trying the "two turns of extra spring preload" fix for the CCT but replacements don't look too expensive. I will also check out the valve clearances; as I don't want to buy the small dowels to lock the VTEC valves, can someone tell me what diameter rod I need to get to make my own? And no new post is complete without a photo...

I've finally completed my personal 1993 project. Rescued from a certain death sentence, I've brought it back to be my personal everyday bike. If interested, here's a short post on her story: http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/my-v4-dream

Hi everyone. Just purchased a 2016 VFR800F. Very, very excited. Good times ahead.

Hello all. I'm not new, but I have a new VFR. I bought a 1995 750 today. Browsing Facebook Marketplace can be fun, but sometimes expensive 😀. I probably paid too much for the bike, but it is in good shape and they don't come up for sale too often. It has almost 50k miles on it, but that didn't worry me much. I was disappointed to find that the tool kit was missing, so I'm going to have to find an appropriate pin wrench to adjust the chain. Charging system looks good (at least for now). All the plastic is there, but there are some small cracks and a few missing tabs, but I think it is all fixable. The inside of the tank looks almost new. I go to get my tag on Friday, and I'm looking forward to taking it out for a ride. Here it is, nestled between the 1982 Nighthawk 450 and the 1988 Supercharged MR2.

I thought I would have a go at the camchain tensioner pre-loading. I gave both tensioners two additional turns, as expected the back one was easy, the front was a little challenging as I left the tank in place and just pushed the hoses aside. A little nerve wracking as it took a little manoevering to get it clear of the hoses, but we got there. And guess what...it is about 95% better. I'm wondering if a decent starter valve synch might get rid of the last bit of clatter? I think that the front tensioner spring end had come out of its slot in the end of the tensioner. Did a bit more polishing on bolt heads polished the heat shield and repainted the passenger peg brackets. Not sure the PO would recognise this bike now. Don't tell the missus, but the Mancave is looking a little crowded now...

Hey there everyone, just wanted to pop in and say hi. Just picked up a 98 VFR that looks to be in amazing shape! I stepped away from riding for the last 6-7 years and recently started getting the itch again. Out of all of my previous bikes my favorite was my old VFR so I was pretty set on getting another one. I took my time and almost pulled the trigger on a 2007 with about 45k miles. But then I found this 98 VFR with only 16k miles. The previous owner was a 74 yr old gentleman that purchased it new and kept in a climate controlled garage its entire life. It is pretty much bone stock except the two brothers exhaust. Drove it to work for the first time today over the mountain full of twisites and it rode like a champ!

You've probably been in a similar situation: A great stretch of road in front of you (PCH in this case). To the left: the way home after a fun 50 mile backroad ride. Straight ahead at least 20 miles of really great smooth, twisty pavement. Approaching the turn an RV and a truck were ahead of me as I headed south out of Tomales. So...inside my helmet I said, if they go left I should really go straight. They went left. A good choice, and some luck, meant that the next 15 (or so) miles were motorcycling magic. The few four-wheeled vehicles in front of me used the turn-outs (thanks!). Michelin Power 5's still stick! Just buzzed all the way to Olema, kept meaning to stop and take a pic but, you know... So, boring garage photo, back home:

Ride safe everyone.

No need to waste the extra cash on the GT's. Used all the standard Michelin front and rear from PR 2's up to the Road 6's on my 6gens and 8gen, without any problems. Includes thousands of k's two up with luggage riding.

Hmm. My VF1000R owners manual and Service manual both call for 20-50 in any temps over 32f or 0 C. When I took one of my R's cross country 10-12 years ago from Maine to North Carolina then San Diego and back again, it was late June early July, so that's what I used. I was riding with a buddy who has an 83 Kawasaki GPz1100, and we ended up changing our oil in a parking lot in a Marina in Newport Beach CA. We then walked across the street to a McLaren (yes, that McLaren) dealer and politely asked if we could give them our oil to re-cycle. Despite looking like 2 guys thar had just changed their motorcycles oil in a parking lot, they agreed. Mark, being British, trotted out this accent to good effect I guess. A year earlier I drove 60 miles down to a Honda dealer in Topsham Maine (sadly closed now) to pick up some parts. I came back out to the bike to find the Service manager and 3 techs staring a hole in my R. Why? None of them had actually seen one before.

New voltmeter New top plate Mounted Side shot Dunno if I like it, the display is quite "loud" compared to the old LCD. I am going to run it awhile and see what I think. Mbe wondering if I can find a transparent gray window tint to tone it down? I do like the general style this mount, no holes punched in body work and totally reversable.... Cheers and beerz all...

Had a 2004 few years back, Picked this 2007 up couple weeks ago and looking forward to trying to wear it out. Just under 20,000 miles. Sargent seat, complete braided brake and clutch line kit, Helibars, lowered footpegs, Oxford heated grips, gear indicator, unknown brand slipon ( no name or markings on it that I can see ), frame siders, SW Motech rear rack with small carry bag. And all the stock stuff including seat and seat cowl. Changed the oil and filter and bled the clutch line. Discovered it has a K&N air filter and the snorkel and flap mod already done. a As well as the pair blockoff plates.

And this is what I have ended up with. I have even been out for a sneaky run around the block, and the bike is now handling, braking and running sweetly. The camchain rattle disappears after 2K and I am left with a lovely induction bark and an appetite for revs. The clutch remains quite grabby and also has a decent rattle, so I think I will get some new fibre discs next. I also checked out the plugs and they look like they may never have been changed, so will order up some of those expensive little blighters as well.

The great clean up has commenced. I picked up some bits and pieces and set to work on Saturday stripping all the bodywork and cleaning. A new bike is always an interesting puzzle to solve when it comes to bodywork and the different fasteners used. Only found one chewed out fairing bolt, but someone had kindly cut a slot in that for a big screwdriver. The level of gunge was amazing; the PO had been a motorcycle courier in UK back in the day and had treated his VFR like a dispatch bike, where cleaning wasn't a priority... Seemes to be well maintained under all the dirt with evidence of antiseize on fasteners and none over-tight. I spent all of Saturday with degreaser and a scrubbing brush transferring years of oily mess from the bike to me. Great clumps of dirt were washed out from all nooks and crannies, but I can see i have more to do around the suspension and swingarm. I removed some bodgy combination numberplate light/bolts; the PO had not realised there was a standard light (new bulb needed)!. One H4 headlight plug was completely absent and evidence of burning on the loose connectors; new socket fitted, back to two headlights. The forks disassembled easily and were predictably nasty in side, obviously was some water mixing in the oil and a deep layer of gunge in the fork bottoms but near-new bushings, and no tube nicks. Fitted some new seals and refilled with clean oil, then set to prepping the legs for paint, which I did on Sunday. I did the dreaded brake caliper clean yesterday, and the right caliper was hideous, full of a mix of fork oil, brake dust and dirt, and took a LOT of scrubbing to get it all off. The pistons were nice and clean and moving well, so I buttoned them up with new pads and called that done. A full brake flush is in the plan. The bike has a K&N air filter which was a little manky, but responded well to cleaning and re-oiling. The airbox was nice and clean but there was some emulsion in the breather tube; I think this bike needs a good thrashing to dry out after a few years of neglect. The engine oil window shows a little evidence of this too. Then I pulled the sprocket cover off, and yet again there was a gritty, greasy mess around that area; it needs a deeper clean, but for now I have scraped all the big lumps out, and so far avoided tracking any of that onto the carpet...I disassembled the clutch master, seal was good and I polished up the piston, and I cleaned and greased the pushrod. The cutch was complete PITA to bleed, even with my vacuum bleeder there was too much air leaking around the nipple until I wrapped that in thread tape. The clutch master had a layer of grey goop in the floor so all of that was removed. I bought a nice new T32 front tyre and some 90 degree stems from the dealer. When I fitted the stem, it seemed kind of small for the hole and I wondered how it would seal, but found that out after fitting the tyre and blowing it up. Apparently there are 8mm and 10mm holes, and I needed the bigger one... Bugger! I have taken Grum's sage advice and orders up new tensioners from Webike in Japan; great prices, hopefully decent shipping times too. Anyway, she's all coming together pretty well.

Well the options for hot go all the way to 20w50 & if you live in a generally hot all the time location, you can use straight 30/40/50 weight oil. Multigrade exists purely to please lazy motorists that live in temperate climates that range from -10c in winter to max 30c in summer. By lazy I mean they don't want to change oils based on the seasons. There are far more modern engines being trashed now due to emissions & economy driven thin oils & very lean running than there ever were before. If manufacturers were worried about longevity at least in cars they would fit a cold start electric oil pump, so the engine is fully primed with oil before turning over & fit turbo oil supplies with reservoirs that gravity flow after engine shutdown to ensure the exhaust side bearing get cooled, but they don't because they don't give a sh!t after the warranty ends! If it survives 2 or 3 years until the warranty is done they are happy. After that if it breaks you will buy a new one, which is more profitable than having ones that last for 100 years due to excellent design & specification. To the OP try thicker oil & let us know how it went 👍

First, do what Bmart says and set the sag properly. Damping to what feels good for you. Personally I would change the S22s for Michelin Road 5 or 6 or Metzler Roadtech 01. You will get much better mileage from a sport touring tyre than the sport tyre you are using. Additionally, your wet weather grip will be better and for road work you won't be compromising on grip at any amount of lean. 36/42 is fine.

Thanks, those are some helpful suggestions. I think I will give the discs a light sanding to remove the surface corrosion before I give it a test ride. I know all the slidey bits are slidey and properly aligned so corrosion is my last likely drag cause. I finished off the back caliper last night, then did the dreaded linked brake bleed starting from empty lines. Actually not as painful as I thought, I followed the manual which (unless there is a typo) goes PCV --> Rear Centre --> PCV --> Rear outers --> Front left centre. The repeat on the PCV was interesting, not sure if it was needed, but the brakes bled up like a charm with great pedal feel. I'm expecting a new Aliexpress screen to be delivered shortly, and I have some new grips to go on (the old Hot Grips had been worn to slicks). Then I plan to swap the 50% worn Road 5 onto my nice gold rear wheel, and then move to a coolant, oil and filter change. The new CCT's have been dispatched from Japan so should see those in the next 7 days I hope. That gold wheel certainly makes the stock silver wheel look a bit dull! Good thing I like cleaning though...

Some progress. Valve's are adjusted New spark plugs in Also the drain holes are now open. Cylinder #2 spark plug cap is changed to a other good one as it didn't hold in place. The corroded spark plug is from that cylinder. The new carb rubbers are in, carbs back on bike Rear turn signals, the front ones that is moved back has to short wires So lengthed them bu cutting and putting in a new wire in between to still use same connection plugs. Soldier the new connections Then the tail section on, wish rest of fairings would be in as nice condition So next to put coolant in engine tank in place and need to get some fresh fuel and then see if it starts

Maintenance quick check, don't put it off....grab a multimeter and check voltage at idle and 5000rpm. Also pull apart the stator to r/r connector and inspect. These bikes are notorious for charging issues. Best wishes...

Correct, I gave it a go and within days the chain chatter was back, all solved with a new one. I'm also of the belief that increasing the oil feed hole does Jack, as these tensioners are not like some of the early car type plunger tensioners that certainly did rely on oil pressure in the punger to do the job, the VFR CCT's don't rely on oil pressure from the oil feed, just purely for lubrication. The VFR CCT's I've removed (3 of) have all been very adequately bathed in oil and operated smoothy, think it's an issue with heat cycles, vibration and age that the spring tension starts to go off resulting in chain chatter up at the head covers, probably a fine line with CCT's in applying just the right tension.

I'm going to repaint the fork legs in satin black when I fit my new/old gold wheels, so I end up with this. I must admit that I really do like the 6G's lines, even my wife commented what a nice looker it is.

Heat the insulators with a heat gun on low to get them soft. If they do not want to come out by hand, CAREFULLY lever them out between one of the rear carb bodies and the read head cover with something like a wooden handle. This move is at your own risk, but is how I do it nearly every time unless I have just installed brand new insulators. If you REALLY want to make the installation easy as pie, buy some new insulators. It is like cheating going back in on a RC36. How I do it: Insulators on the heads, heated up with a heat gun and a light smear of red rubber grease. Fully seat the front carbs. The rears will seem off and impossible, but with downward pressure the front insulators will give, improving the rear gap and the rears will pop in. I use a snap on coolant hose tool to sweep around the lip of the rear insulators to help the carbs get past and down. Again, new insulators and they will almost fall in. Re-using old ones, a heat gun is a must. Some people do a half on half off angled thing with insulators. I have never needed that. Bottom line is whatever works for you and gets the carbs fully seated and doesn't damage the insulators. HIGHLY recommend replacing the coolant fitting orings if you are doing this job. They will be a solidified goo like substance that no longer looks like an oring. Probably a good idea to replace the float bowl orings too when you have the carbs out, they are cheap. https://www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-76-x-2mm-price-for-1-pc/ Somewhere I have all of the FKM/Viton equivalents for the whole cooling system. Pennies on the dollar.

I'm nominating this for understatement of the year. Beautiful!

The RC36 fuel pumps don't "prime" when you turn on the key. None of the carb bikes do. Sometimes you can get a single click. The Fuel Cut Relay is energized by an ignition signal, so it only allows the pump to operate when the bike is being cranked or running. I wire in parallel toggle switches so I can prime the fuel system and/or get home when the relay fails. You can eliminate the relay too and have the pump constantly ready to pump when needed. I like at least having the toggle so I can turn off the pump if I'm working on the fuel system and turn the key on. The Service Manual will tell how how much fuel should pump over a certain amount of time to check your pump operation. Sounds you like you feel you have good volume. It will also tell you which wires need to be jumped at the relay connector.

This is going to keep my VFR company in my garage 👀

https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506ca835f870023420a3fe3b/tools You're going to save a couple hundred pounds just buying a few standard tools from a local shop.

Nope, just volts.... cheap....I like cheap..Its even a two-fer, I figured if I screw up one, I got another to go on. ... Looked up a price on a new Lascar, jeez effen 40 dollars.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091FM68Y6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B08TBVTCRK&pd_rd_w=6Sb5u&content-id=amzn1.sym.8c2f9165-8e93-42a1-8313-73d3809141a2&pf_rd_p=8c2f9165-8e93-42a1-8313-73d3809141a2&pf_rd_r=C4X5VHBWW7HD5VR7D47W&pd_rd_wg=yEWkC&pd_rd_r=2cab363f-669b-4f24-8ca5-be634455d4d4&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

I had a PRICK Honda Dealer owner berate me for buying the Honda GN4 20w-50 from his store. Just went OFF about how I should be using 10w-40 in my bike (a 1986 VF1000R that doesn't leave my heated garage until it is at least 65F outside). Told me to read my owner's manual without even knowing what bike I had. I asked him, why the fuck does Honda even provide it and you sell it then, if every Honda should be using 10w-40. I told him he needs to actually read a manual sometime and he will see. Then the PRICK started quizzing me when I asked for the MJ0 large oil filter. "You know the filters have different valves... blah blah blah..." Just give me the fucking oil filter I know the part number of. God I hated that dick. Luckily he retired and sold the business to his Parts and Sales Managers. It is now a decent dealership.

Can we just talk about politics instead of oil? Far less controversy. klebocna101, you opened the crypt and let out this horror after two years of oil discussion peace.

It is great to see people stepping up and refilling the operational coffers of VFRD. I guess everyone just needs to be reminded every once in a while. Supporting the community helps ensure that VFRD continues to thrive and provide valuable resources for all members.

Bust the Glaze before you bust your wallet... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...

While my VFR is sitting waiting for repairs (https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/113334-burnt-stator-connector/), I bought a new-to-me 2014 Ducati Multistrada S Touring. It was in the works before the r/r died again on my VFR. I rode home 700 km and the dirt bike ergonomics are perfect for me. Felt fresh after a long day in the saddle while the VFR was causing me some neck and hip pain. Despite being 10 years old, it's in immaculate condition. It's got 38K km and came with a bunch of goodies like a Termignoni slip on exhaust, carbon fibre bits and the comfort seat. I probably wouldn't have done many of these myself but for the price, I think it was worth it. I wanted/lusted after one ever since riding one during a Ducati demo days in 2010. Time and depreciation has made it affordable, and since I'm turning 64 in a couple of months, I figured I had better do it sooner than later. Here's a few pictures of it in its new home next to the VFR. And since my office is in the garage, I can glance to my left and see both of my bikes. Not too bad.

WTF.......That's it.... I'M DONE...

We could also do a tuning fork shaped ride - out to French Meadows Dam on Mosquito Ridge Rd and double back to Foresthill, then down to Georgetown for a run out to the end of Wentworth and back. Definitely no dirt on that. I'm never hell bent on loops, I just like good roads and will run them repeatedly until complete exhaustion (as TC and St.S know very well haha)

And that right there is likely is a BIG part of your problem. Sorry man, but the very first thing that went thru my head when I saw your "skills" was, "oh god". You need to read about, look at pictures of and practice basic connection practices. Those are... really not good. And follow Grum's instructions EXACTLY... if you get any more. "I know you said this, but I did that." is the quickest way to lose his interest in helping. Which I'm sure is pretty damn low right now.

Olema, eh? I was enjoying a solo ride homeward from Monterey in July of '03, and neglected to stop at Olema's one and only stop sign. I was looking for the turn into Point Reyes National Seashore and hadn't noticed a CHiP car right behind. Oops. Got away with a warning, tho. No photo of that adventure, but here's one from earlier on that trip. Also on a VTR1000, but an F sadly instead of an R. This is a couple miles up Nacimiento-Fergusson road from PCH, near Lucia.

I sympathise with your issue here, but the VFR1200 you speak of is not remotely the same as my experience of mine or the 2 VFR1200s my mates ride. There are 2 areas where you may find the issue/solution: The bike - not heard of a VFR1200 acting like this but it is NOT NORMAL. Either you have a suspension issue and/or a tyre issue. The Rider - either your expectations are not aligned with the rest of us who find the bike awesome, your riding style and/or your experience (linked to expectation). Do you have anyone you know who owns a 1200 that you could swap bikes with and see if it's the bike or you? Whichever it is I hope you are able to sort it as the VFR1200 is an outstanding motorcycle. Feels safe at whatever speed and angle of bank right up to the limit of the tyre.

Maybe next time! Anyway, here's the offending "other" swing arm: And here's the finished brake cylinder and line: And here's the view of the inside, where I've sleeved the brake line with some heat shield (also under the heat shrink, all the way to the grommet): That Nitron shock is almost too nice to go in this bike... And that's where I had to stop. More progress next month! Ciao, JZH

...Quite hard! What a huge pain in the a-place that was! There's a drain hole at the bottom rear of the swing arm which is apparently doing nothing other than draining water from the swing arm--who needs that? Let's fit a standard Goodridge Buildaline brake line through it and seal it with a standard HEL brake line grommet! (I did check that the movement of the caliper as the eccentric chain adjuster goes through its arc doesn't bind the brake line--it's very minimal movement.) Now all I had to do was get the brake line through two 90-degree bends to the tiny opening on the other side of the swing arm... Simple! Ah, okay, there was actually a lot of swearing and throwing of tools between those two pictures. Essentially what I did was (a) feed the brake line through the drain hole to the opening on the LHS of the bike, (b) feed a stainless steel TIG welding wire from the RHS opening in a semi-circle through to the opening on the LHS of the bike, and (c) (and this was the fun bit) attach the wire to the brake line (and wrap it with tape to avoid snagging) and pull it partially back out the drain hole before pulling it forward through the opening on the RHS of the bike. It eventually worked doing it that way, but I struggled with it for at least an hour, and if I hadn't had that proof that it was possible sitting in front of me I probably would have given up. Trauma over, I had to sort out the last few inches of the rear brake conversion, which involves running a brake line next to an uber-hot rear exhaust pipe, a compressing spring and a moving swing arm. The goal was to keep the brake line as far away from the exhaust pipe as possible without getting it pinched by any moving suspension components. That is one of the OEM bolts for the swing arm pivot, now sporting an M5-threaded hole in the top. I probably could have slipped some kind of p-clip under it, but any p-clip with a 10mm hole it is was likely to be way too big to secure a brake line. I have somewhat compromised the strength of the M10 bolt, but the hole is not very deep and my Superfast Matt/Ichiban Moto inspired engineering prowess has declared the result "good enough" and "five-out-of-five". To be fair, there's hardly any swing arm movement up there by the pivot, so the real problem is the heat--and keeping it out of the way of the shock. I may add some heat-shield sleeving (if I can find it in my garage...) I seem to have forgotten to take any pics of the master cylinder, which I rebuilt and modified by cutting down the actuating arm (the F4i one was about 2x as long as the VFR one) and "machining" it to work like the OEM one. But you're not missing much--it looks like a master cylinder. Next up is fitting the new chain and sprockets (you can see the Nitron shock lurking in the photos above), the Harris carbon fibre hugger and bleeding the new brake lines... One more day to work on the bike in London before I've got to return to NL. I won't be finished, so the bike won't be hitting the road just yet. But I'm getting closer! Ciao, JZH

You are one lucky rider mate. This is not a part the average enthusiast is going to have lying around unfortunately, we're all kind of using ours so to speak. Part number is 90306-MZ7-000 Partzilla David Silver Spares CMSNL All show it in stock. For roughly $20, may be easier to just order a known brand new one rather than try and track down one from a junk yard. That said, CMSNL shows 341 applications for this nut, like for the Bros, Hawk, VFR400 etc, anything with a single sided swingarn I guess. So you could look for something from that list. Good luck.

A late thought on your issue. Do you know if you tend to keep your foot applying a tiny bit of pressure to the gear change lever between gear changes? That can lead to wear on the selector mechanism and cause shift problems over time. In my case, a POs habit of doing that on my Suzuki led to 'soft' gear changes and eventually complete failure of a shift fork and 3 gear cogs 120 miles from home. The repair bill was £1700 with the engine out of the frame. Hopefully that's not your case and it's no more than wear on thegear shift spindle mechanism, shift drum centre or stopper arm/stopper arm spring which can all be accessed behind the drive sprocket and water pump covers with the engine in the frame. Either way, the problem you describe does not sound like it's going to improve as the new oil circulates but I could be wrong. The response you got from the Honda dealer sounds completely arbitrary to me unless they don't want any more work than oil changes and the odd sensor replacement. Do you have an independent with a good reputation nearby?

Congratulations on your 8th gen. VFR and welcome to the forum from Ohio, USA! 🙂

I've PM'd you where you can get the Honda service manual from!

Well the ZR7S cam chain started to make noise at times, so did put in a manual cam tensioner as the OEM is known to fail It needed trimming in other end to fit but otherwise a good part. Cam chain worries are gone. Decided to test the CBR1000F brake M/C I have (14mm), now mounted but test ride still to do, hope to get better feel in level compared to orginal that is ⅝ (~16mm).

I put a 6th gen Ohlins rear shock on my 8th gen, fit no problem so I'd assume other way no issue.

100 miles today. The marketing folks call a lot of the north bay Wine Country, and man there were a lot of grapes growing on my ride. Lots of agriculture here, and you can tell what kind by how often you have to stop and wipe all the bugs off your face shield. Cows and chickens are pretty much 10 splats per minute, but around the vinyards no visual obstruction! No, I did not taste: