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Twenty years ago I flew to Nashville, borrowed a 5th gen, and rode to Charlotte NC on all the best roads. Went home and bought one soon after. Last week I flew to Nashville, borrowed the same bike (only 22k miles now) and spent 4 days riding some of the same roads. I now understand why VFRD meets in Franklin. We stayed in Townsend, and just rode everything we could in the area. It was epic, and I will not wait another 20 years to head east again.

Hello all. Marcus here. Just wanted to say hi. This is my VFR.

Posting up for the halibut... I had been getting occasional whiffs of coolant smell once in a while, and couldnt find where it was coming from, so bit the bullet for a teardown... (dammit) Strip it! Found the source of the coolant smell, one of the small fittings was weeping slightly. Oring smooched like a lot of pics. -- Ordered new viton O-rings... from oringsandmore -- credit Captain80s....thanks Throttle body vacuum hoses are on the crispy side, ordered silicone vac lines to replace... Seems to be a good source, havent recieved yet... https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-3-5mm-high-temperature-silicone-vacuum-hose-tubing-coolant-overflow-tube More parts ordered from RonAyers in process too.... Updates as I get the itch and recieve parts.... Cheerz and beerz

Hello dear bikers, VFR enthusiasts and all who feel similar 🙂 I registered a long time ago, but I never actually introduce myself, so better ever then never. I'm Denis and I'm from Croatia, 38y/o, and driving two-wheelers from very distant youth. There were small 50cc manuals, tuned 50cc 2T scooters, 125 2T sport bikes (Cagiva Mito inclusively), FZ6, Z750, racing 180 2t scooters and etc... I fell in love in one RC36 also when I was a kid, but at that time I didn't even know which brand it was and why it has so beautiful sound. Actually I thought it was V2 but high revving model (apparently I didn't know much about mechanics and engines back in the day) 🤣 After I tried friend's 1998 RC46 for the first time in 2021 (he actually stole my idea after selling his SV1000), I said that's it, and same year I bought my first VFR, silver RC46 from 2001. She was 20 years old, but she didn't give any sign of fatigue. 106 HP, slightly schratched in the front, previously repainted, but mechanically perfect. 258km/h top speed, niiiiice 😙 But I don't like silver. 😴 For me it's the color of the primer, ready to put some COLOR, red, blue, yellow, orange, even black!!! So I did what had to be done. Perfect! I dreamed about red one. Putted iridium spark plugs, new oil, new tires, new filters... (one rectifier later, of course) and that's it. And it was nice one and a half year, one of the best tours in my life, a lot of commuting, freerides, turned 26 thousand kilometers in total. And then my other friend happened.. asked me for a spin, and unfortunatelly the bike was almost totalled, he was luckily OK, only scratches, bruises, but broken pride. 😢 Season skipped unintentionally. And then "banana" came (as my friend calling her) 😆 1999, imported from Germany, well preserved, also mechanically very good, 114 thousand kilometers, yeees manual choke, not that nice gauge background as facelift version, not that nice mirrors... but BOS high-mount exhaust, sport air filter and remapped ECU. A lot of original accessories (Honda tools, passenger grips and original passenger seat cover)... and 270 km/h 😎🫢🤪😮 Plus stronger pull from lower rpms. Everything you need from a bike. And after one year and 8 months, she's still here, but 30 thousand kilometers older (plus one battery which died). Uh, what a bike. She still puts a smile on my face. And almost 150 tkm... Well done Honda 😉

Today pulled the cover off my VFR and gave it a bath. Even under a carport and with a bike cover the dust finds a way to get everywhere. Then I cleaned the chain, aired up the tires, installed the battery, and changed the oil & filter. Next job will be replacing the cam chain tensioners, a task I've put off far too long. For a variety of reasons it's been almost 3 years since I last rode it. Since 1991 I'd never skipped a year until 2023. Not the most exciting story, but it's an excuse to show this pic.

Better pic

Hi folks, Just thought I'd check in as a new member/Vfr owner! Picked up this beaut yesterday in Northern Ireland... '98 , 13.5k miles. Mot till Mar '26 (not needed here in Ireland tbh but a nice indication of roadworthiness!) Previous owner bought it @10 months old and all credit to him, it's in brilliant condition for a 27yr old machine - paint on the fork legs is flaking a tiny bit and a tiny bit on the rhs heat shield, apart from a small crack on the mudguard & a few small marks...it's very good I'm a very happy camper 😃 Came with everything it should (tool kit & c spanners,owners manual etc) seat cowl,an after market Screen, carbon hugger. €2500 - a bit of haggling was done to get him down to that due to tyre age...I wasn't going to risk riding 200 miles on old tyres despite them looking ok + passing the Mot - front was from '04 rear '14. No chance. Got the tyres done on the way back down in Dublin (@ €320 fitted). So by the time I pay registration tax,motor tax and get a plate made, a shade over €3k. Pretty happy with that if I'm honest! Abm superbike conversion kit ordered today too - was out today for a few hours, for me it'll be essential. Looking into something to lower the pegs too! Micron carbon can is just epic - engine has just the best sound ... Was in Ballymoney last weekend for the Joey Dunlop 25th celebration when I had my eye on this - was lucky enough to be right in front of the tent when they started one his race Rc45's. Pretty much decided there and then I had to get the closet thing I could. Have not been disappointed with the sound. It is glorious. Looking forward to gleaning as much info as I can from here! Quick looksie shows there's a wealth of knowledge 👌 Regards, Sean

Here are the Honda versions I like to use. Incorporated "shoulder" so it can be torqued and not crush/crack bodywork. Thru single piece of Honda plastic: Thru 2 pieces of bodywork (like a seat cowl):

OK, For all that have been following my posts on this Frankenbike., I finally nailed it down. Today I removed the stator cover just to convince myself of the rotor size and to have a "feel" at the magnets. The 2 rotor sizes are 107mm OD and 115 OD, Mine has the smaller. The larger ones are fitted from 2003. My bike must have been the earlier one. Anyway, the stator looked nice and clean with no visible scorch marks. So looking at the wiring from the stator to where I soldered the new 12g wires just outside the end casing it all looked ok but did notice prior to refitting the cover that there was evidence of a blackish burn mark on the cable securing clip inside the cover. This I removed to have a look and found one of the wires had been trapped and cut into and was JUST touching the clip. Service history showed a new HONDA stator less than 10k miles before me getting this bike. Unknown to me where or who fitted this but it seems they were a little heavy handed on fitting the stator. I Re-arranged the wires and insulated the 3 of them separately just to be double sure and MAGIC, I have charging voltage of 14.5V., and 14.2V with main beam and heated grips on full. That will do me , as they say. What a nightmare this journey has been. Thanks go to all who commented and answered. Now to get on with checking the brakes out and painting the fork legs. UK MOT next.

Gotta bag and tag and stay organized or I'll go bonkers...

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

Got up and changed the air filter, then went on another long ride. This time to Borrego Springs(Bad idea. Too hot.) Then up to Julian to meet the wife for lunch. Took a massive bug to the inner visor when my main visor was up and actually tasted whatever part of it went in my mouth. A friend of mine snapped a pic of me when I was waiting on the side of the road for emergency crews to take care of a downed rider(I don't know his status, but I hope he's going to be OK). All in all, a good ride and much needed stress relief from the work week. Probably need another one next weekend.

I have been trading PMs with another member on this and reminded me to post this. First I have to give credit to MiguelDK of Denmark, (VFRW) giving credit where it is due. He gave permission to use for the VFR community. STL file is attached. I made some with a local printer last summer...used ABS material. (I have leftover material if someone needs it, local shop tells me, no more ABS. ....Damn.) Heat inserts Mounted Cheerz all ComboMudguardBracketLeft and Right.stl

Welcome aboard. Think you got a pretty darn fair deal on a great bike. That high mount Micron looks at home on the bike. Not sure if I've heard one on a VFR yet, but no doubt its going to sound great. Just finished 4,700 miles in 17 days on my 2001 down to North Carolina, Virginia, etc then up to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. My 5th Gen. is a keeper. I'm sure yours will be also.

May as well add... since I pull the fender off and on several times a season... I like these Honda collars to protect the paint on the fenders. Also helps from cracking... I like the combination of nylon washer, collar, then fastener.... for grins, I used Titanium wide flange from Pro-Bolt...(yeah, I'm nutz) Fender mounted.. Another tip..since I never use the Frankenbolt, this combination also works as a replacement in that spot. Used a rubber washer instead of nylon... Cheerz all

I just acquired this bike a few months ago after having ridden only dirtbikes and dual sports for the past quarter century, but suddenly got the itch for a sporty bike again. Extremely low mileage and extremely well-kept(as far as I know and can tell) 2015 Gen 8 that probably once belonged to someone on here. Had it serviced, valves check, oil change, etc., then took it to my suspension guy who replaced both fork tubes and rebuilt the fork. The exhaust was a little loud for my taste, so I just installed a DB killer and the difference is noticeable. The Honda decals added tastefully, just so folks know. I have also dropped the front end just a tad to give me a little quicker steering and set the seat in the higher position to raise my center of gravity and put a little more weight on the front. I was initially looking for a new CBR650R, but just happened upon this beauty at a local dealership. I had always wanted a Honda V4 since I was younger, so once I found this and gave it a once over, and realized I couldn't pass on the opportunity, I asked them to hold it for me while I took a day to think about it. Went back, took a test ride, handed over the cash and have been stoked ever since. This is the closest I will ever get in configuration to my dream bike, which has always been the RC45. The Force V4 decal being a nod to that bike.

PM me or feel free to text/call me at 908-338-3581 (hopefully this is allowed) -Clean Title -27,005 Miles -Garage Stored -2 Ignition Keys -Rare Corbin Saddlebags w/ 4 Keys -OEM rear seat cowl -OEM tool bag w/ wrenches Maintenance (receipts/old parts provided) -New Perilli Angel GT tires (375miles old) -New Amsoil 100% Synthetic Engine Oil & Filter (375 miles old) -Magnetic Oil Drain Plug -New OEM Front Wheel Bearings -New OEM Fork Seals -New OEM Fork Oil -New Front Brake & Clutch Fluid For better quality pictures, please visit my facebook ad at this https://www.facebook.com/share/15W7VumkVn/

One of my '99s has had the SH847/Anti Gravity combo for 5 years. No issues whatsoever. The battery actually sat on the bench for over a year before I installed it, and I never had to charge it. Granted I never ride this bike for more than an hour at a time since it's primarily my "play" bike, but I'm still impressed. I also put heat shielding on the bottom of the battery compartment above the exhaust, and "Swiss cheesed" the lid since lithium batteries don't like heat.

For cleaning the aluminum parts check into building a vapor blaster-friend has one and parts look brand new or better after cleaning. It's a "sandblaster" that sprays water and glass beads with compressed air.

Good morning everyone, Here are the progress and set backs from this week and last weekend. A lot of masking, painting, bleeding, re-masking, airbrushing, repeat. If anything, that job is teaching me patience and accepting my mistakes. Still unsure about what happened about on the "RC36" on the right hand side on the seat cover. Most likely a mix of airbrushing too thick, too soft sanding (p1200) and possibly a bad vinyl ? But once again, that will be adjusted on the next step. Slow and steady wins the race ! 🐢💪

Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. All the files they provided are attached to this thread and I also started a new map file here (pending approval as of today): PCII_SOFTWARE_AND_MAPS.zip

Had the same issue with the Wax Idle unit bracket, this shows how much I took off for the AS3 hoses:

Getting ready to go... labeled every OEM hose as I was removing so I know where it goes... then I can match the AS3 hoses.. Its the only way (for me) to keep hoses straight in the labyrinth of connections. Scrubbed the hooey out of the hose connections and thermostat housing with degreaser and several different stiff brushes. (not fun) Took far too damn long. -- Makes me wonder about getting an ultrasonic cleaner machine....(any tips?)

That stater looks ~KRISPY~

My wife does not want to been seen with me....

If anyone asks, "Why aren't there any nice 5th gen. VFRs left for sale in Canada?" I think we know the answer: @maxredline is hoarding them! 😆 Just kidding. Congrats on your latest VFR!

We meet in Franklin every May. Come join us and you will find even more roads that the locals share with us. There is also a Fall Ride in mid September that moves to different locations just to keep it interesting. We usually end up with a couple of groups so everybody can find a ride.

It doesn't have to be "D" shaped to be the correct length. Just like a float bowl o-ring doesn't have to be pre-formed to the bowl shape.

It's the bane of all automotive and motorcycle projects! 😧 I did get mine to fit and they are oh so pretty! I only shaved off from the Fork side! The witness marks are visible, but that will surely only ever bother me lol Got the other side done, and the brake lines all plumbed up too! Thanks for all yalls help!!! --- I will make a write up here for my fork teardown, but that story is a long one and will take some effort to post. I'll happen in due time though!

That black and white is striking--it allows the tires and seat to be part of the color scheme. Time to lay down a few miles Lorne!

The H4 bulb base is a Honda thing and not just US spec H4 bulbs. Normal H4 bulbs use the P43T base. But Honda decided they wanted to be special and use PX43T 65 degree base. Hence the tab locations being different and requiring modification.

BIKE IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE For sale is a 2000 Honda VFR800 that I have owned since September of 2019. I have been riding the bike less and less over the last couple years and have decided to sell it, hopefully finding a home with someone who will have more time to enjoy this special motorcycle. Most of the folks on here are aware, but this is from the 5th Generation of the VFR, produced from 1998-2001, with 2000 being the only year the bike was produced in yellow. This is the last generation that was produced with the iconic gear driven cams. Throughout my time owning this bike, it has always been stored inside and always kept on a battery tender when I was not riding it. This bike has been completely gone through from top to bottom since I have owned it and it is 100% sorted. The bike has just over 25,000 miles now, about 3,000 of which I have put on the bike since I have owned it. Over the last 1,500-2,000 miles, the bike has received the following updates: Suspension: The bike has received Daugherty Motorsports suspension, with BD20 fork cartridges and a BD40 rear shock (with reservoir). This suspension is fully adjustable and completely transformed the way the bike feels. The components DMr uses are high end - HYPERCO spring on the rear shock, beautifully machined metal, and gorgeous anodizing. When the bike was disassembled to install these new components, everything was cleaned. Brakes: The entire braking system on this bike was cleaned, serviced, and every caliper and master cylinder seal and o ring has been replaced. The bike received Galfer stainless steel braided brake lines and EBC brake pads, along with fresh fluid. In addition to the peace of mind knowing the whole braking system was refreshed, this has completely transformed the way the brakes feel. Exhaust: The bike came with the desirable Staintune muffler, but I have also added a set of headers that were produced by a fabricator in WA for a handful of years. Since much of the discussion around these headers took place here, folks on this forum are likely aware of the small batches of these headers that were hand built, modeled after the discontinued Two Brothers Racing headers that were originally made for this bike. These headers save weight and improve airflow. My plan was to originally add a Power Commander and have this dyno tuned, but never made it that far. Electrical: These bikes are notorious for having electrical issues so every wire and connector has been gone through to make sure nothing was burned or melted and that all connections are solid. This process included adding a VFRness, as well as a new Reg/Rec and stator. This bike was converted to a lithium ion battery and compatible Reg/Rec. Other mods and maintenance: Sargent seat Zero Gravity smoke wind screen Frankenstein bolts for easy removal of cowl Battery tender Voltage meter New headlight bulbs Coolant system flushed Pirelli Angel GT tires (~70% of life left on them) Throttle bodies sync’d Valves checked and in spec This bike is mechanically perfect, with a few minor cosmetic scratches. The previous owner dripped the bike in his driveway which left some scratches, but NONE of the plastic is cracked. I have included photos of the scratches, as well as some blemishes the previous owner used yellow paint to cover up. As you can see by the photos, you need to get very close to the bike to see the imperfections. Overall this bike is 100% sorted and ready to ride with zero deferred maintenance. Asking $5500. Feel free to reach out with any questions. PM me or email me at dwbandler@gmail.com. -David

I have very similar feelings. I did an overnight trip this weekend to SE Ohio, home of most of the best twisty roads in the state. It has been a while since I did any real sport-riding, and rather than push it, I rode more conservatively than usual. I think as I get older I'm less willing to risk it all just to go 5-10% faster. I'm not racing, after all. Just looking to go reasonably quick and to ride as smoothly as possible, practicing good technique into, through, and out of corners.

Got up early and went for a long twisty one. I decided it was going to be a day spent trying to work on my vision and regaining some flow in my riding while staying in complete control, and I feel like I accomplished that. I will never be the rider I was before I switched to dirt so many years ago, but I can apply some old man wisdom to my current riding and be a lot smoother and safer than I ever was 🤷‍♂️ Now I just need to learn to take pictures of the bike from a different angle 🫥

Got a new helmet; left the pricey Shoei's at home and enjoyed, thoroughly, an open face lid again. Awesome. Took the bike down some of my favorite roads; that means little to no paint on the road and speed signs that indicate 40-60 Km/Hr curves which I simply Americanize into M.P.H. and then add a bit to get the true recommended speed. Oh yes, and picture of my 1999 VFR.

I've got it, the PC2 software and all the US/UK maps. Can put on a Google drive for download if you like, pm me. Still running the PC2 myself. Edit: With @ShinyPants101 upload it looks like we have everything in the site's downloads section now. Note the California spec '98-'99 bike uses the M103-00x maps. M101-00x US M101-50x Europe

Update. Pulled out the old stator and it has been set aside until I have time & place to have it rewound. Made a mounting plate for the RR and tested things. AC and DC voltage looks good. Now the weather has to get its act together and do some riding.

Zero problems going above or below spec when sourcing aftermarket. If it is proud enough to squish (but not excessive), and will stay in the groove on assembly, it will be just fine. Personally proven over and over. Sometimes a dab of red rubber grease in a tight corner can help hold for assembly. Usually this refers to float bowls

Back at it... some stuff... The leaker(s)... New O-rings come in.. So silly ass questions... - O-rings are off diameter spec a bit, exact Honda spec parts wasnt available... one spec is 21.2mm, o-ring is 21.3mm, not too conserned on that one. Another spec is 23.0mm dia and O-ring is 23.3mm and the thermostat housing spec is 47.5mm dia, I bought a 47mm and a 48mm Anybody have any problem when O-rings are slightly off spec? Also recieved the silicone hoses, looks like nice stuff... Bought these brass T's to replace the stockers plastic material.. (RonAyers lists them at 14 dollars apiece!) Good idea? Bad idea? Havent decided to go with them or just reuse the old T's... Assembly coming up next... Cheerz

Well, new tires, a sunny day, time to head out. After some back roads I was heading south on 1 and right after a quick pass of a slower vehicle a guy in a red Honda S2000 (that's a car) passed me. I kept my distance but followed him for the next ~15 miles. A number of vehicles were nice enough to pull over for us, and a number got passed anyway. Not saying any double yellows were crossed. In fact, I'm just not saying. He was faster in the 1st gear turns, I was faster when it was faster, so to speak. He headed inland on a back road, waved to say what fun! I waved back.

Side view for Mohawk:

Nuttin' wrong with a SP2 if you're a hard MF'r.....

So a LifePO4 battery has a nominal voltage of 3.2v x4=12.8v a good 12v lead acid battery should have a static voltage when charged & rested of 12.7v. Nominal charging voltage for a LiFePO4 battery is 3.4-3.65v or for 4 cells connected in series 13.6-14.6v. Most bike 12v charging systems put out 14.4-14.7v maximum & if the battery voltage matches the rectifier's output voltage the RR shunts the excess to the heat sink, saving the battery from overcharging. So LiFePO4 batteries are quite happy in a motorcycles charging system. The higher voltage is only required for LiPo batteries which have a nominal 3.7v per cell, or 14.8v for a 4 cell pack. They are fully charged at 4.2v, which equates to a 16.8v charging voltage. But you really should NOT use LiPo in a bike, they are the ones that swell when not looked after correctly, as in they require load balanced per cell charging & if abused quite happily burst into flames ! Check out electric car fires online for reference. If your bikes RR fails then LiFePO4 reacts much like a Lead Acid battery, it will be overcharged & die, but LiPo WILL set your bike on fire. Your bike & your balls are at risk, you have been warned 😂

Go with the SH847.

The Multistrada is a bigger bike (taller, longer wheelbase, high COG) and about 80lbs heavier. Not much when comparing 900lb HD's but significant if under 500lbs. The Ducati is my overnight-and-longer travel bike. I'm really looking to downsize (literally) and the Tuono's (claimed, I know...) 400lbs is an important feature for me. It also has premium suspension standard, and other bells and whistles. We''l see how the ergos are.

So decided that the old double bubble screen which has started to crack internally & has snapped locator lugs under the mirror mounts needed to be replaced. After a bit of searching the MRA screen whilst expensive looks the best. Before = Old Screen After = New MRA Screen The MRA screen is a little lower than the old one. Measured from the front of the steering stem bolt, old screen was 14.25" above, MRA is 12.5" above. At speed you need to tuck a little at 100mph to get the benefit from the new screen, old one was good to 120mph before you needed to tuck. At lower speeds they are much the same.

I know looks are subjective, but to me the new screen looks better. It looks sleeker and more befitting a sporty bike. 🙂