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It's been around 18 months or so since being able to do and fairly easy 385k round trip ride to my favorite winery, mostly on nice quiet back roads. I've had a few hospital visits and major cancer surgery to get through, anyhow, the short story is I'm feeling great now and have another 12 months or so of Immunotherapy to get through then hopefully I'll be in the clear. Today was a bit of a test to see how I'd handle the longer times in the saddle along with a picture perfect Spring day for riding, everything went well, happy me. There's a great winery I enjoy riding to in a tiny country town called Moonambel (Victoria Australia, Google Maps will get you there!!), an old Gold mining town, but the only Gold you'll find there now are the Red's produced by - Summerfield Winery. Here's a few happy snaps of the day Safe Riding All. Cheers On the way up "Fields of Gold"everywhere, Canola in bloom. Not quite Las Vegas. Apart from the Winery, there's the Motel and a General Store, a small town well known for its local wineries. The brilliant wine maker himself Mark Summerfield - Liquid Gold! Time to fill up the Panniers and head for home. The bike just loves Reds! Mark and the winery staff know me as "The Red Baron". The VFR and my wine pickups have featured in one of the Wine Club newsletters. I've made eight wine travel canisters out of 90mm PVC storm water pipe with a solid cap on one end. I roll up each bottle with bubble wrap then slide it into one of the canisters, I can fit up to 4 bottles in each of the pannier internal bags and haven't had a breakage yet. Not the most efficient way of purchasing wine, but it's an enjoyable day on the bike and any excuse to pick up some fine Reds is a good one! Have to admit my 8gen with 93,000k's on the clock, never ceases to put a smile on my dial.

Been buildong this since start of covid, just fitted the fairings the other day. Genuine RC30 wheels, axle, sprocket carrier and modifed rear hub to accept RC30 axle fairing, fuel tank, seat unit, rear subframe, front fairing bracket, top yoke and instruments. Ktech DDS fork internals in cb1000 big one fork lowers with RC30 stantions, Nitron rear shock, Tyga stainless exhaust with carbon can.

Well folks, the rain of pain is OVER! Just received my notice from the DMV that my license has been reinstated! Still in shock at the moment but I'll be OK.

Well, as you can see from omgvfr's post, the headers are here, he's just lucky that he lives in So Cal, so was able to stop by and pick his up first hand, rather than wait for shipping. On that topic, I'm flying solo right now as sfdownhill is away this week, so I'm trying to tag team this with my day job and doing the boxing up at night. There's a few on here who have not responded to my last post yet, but rest assured, they'll be boxed up and ready to go along with the others. I was able to get them all boxed up last night but need to get the shipping labels done and then get the boxes dropped off, so they can get to their destination. Here's what the front of my garage looks like at the moment. And a peek at what to expect once your box arrives (if you're one who has a set coming). Hoping to get all the labels printed and onto the boxes tonight. I know, I know, "Hurry up Duc, we've been waiting so long!"

So I made a offer on a 1986 VFR750F RC24 on Friday as I was bored, and I got the offer accepted! So Friday evening I did pick it up! A bit rough bike but runs. Nice things are, aside it's red 😜, it has a Devil 4-1 exhaust, fairly fresh front brake discs as pads front and half worn tires. Battery as R/R are one year old and fork has stiffer springs. Plastic has cracks, seat cover needs to be changed and fairing inner panels are missing. Biggest issue is, even it runs good, the engine dies after 10-15 minutes of riding. This was mentioned in the add, but sounded like a fuel cut relay issue, BUT after a ride today I don't think it's the issue. Engine dies like ignition switched off, and after a 15-20 minutes wait it starts again but dies again after 5-10 minutes, same thing starts after a wait again. Anyone has had this issue? What to look into?

Hi all, I posted here a few times explaining how I was guilty of letting my lovely 750 sit in the shed and gather dust. Well, this summer I really got to work on it and it's back on the road. I put together a little PDF with pics and some text for a work group and thought it'd be nice to share it here. Enjoy! VFR presentation.pdf Here's how it looks now:

THEY'RE ON THEIR WAY! I just have two left to deal with. These are the one's going outside the US, but I should have these out later today or tomorrow, different shipper and process along with a couple of I's to dot and T's to cross. I just want to thank everyone for being so patient and understanding of the circumstances but we all persevered and the rewards will be received very soon! Cheers, D

Test ride yesterday!! A little purple to pay homage to the original graphics... Ran perfect. Starts and idles nicely. Pulls strong, no clutch slip. All instruments and gauges work. Need to pull the crankcase covers and refinish this winter. Chain guard is next. It's finally clean, need to remove the stickers and give it a matte or satin finish. Instantly felt like a VFR I've ridden for years. Not perfect, but a real nice budget survivor refresh. Oh, sounds great too.

Replaced my chain and sprockets on the 97. The old girl has 108K ( 173 K) kilometers on her now. While taking a break from cleaning the swingarm and counter sprocket areas I came across the chain tool that came with the bike when I bought it 10 years ago. When I initially looked at it, I dismissed it a a chain breaker only, and a cheap Chinese one to boot, and tossed it into the back of a toolbox drawer. I have been using a Stockton chain tool, and its worked OK, but since I seem to be the only guy in my area with a rivet tool, its useful life is fading. So I went online to see if I could identify the one that came with the bike and maybe get some kind of use out if it. I searched chain tool and variations of wording and found nothing in 15 minutes of looking. Finally right at the end I saw a video posted of someone putting a new DID chain on and it looked like he was using that cheap thing in my tool box. Watching further, I found out that it was in fact a DID tool, and lo and behold if you pulled the breaker pin out and turned it around, you have a rivet anvil. We having a saying in New England " when light dawns on Marblehead" well, I had one of those moments. Of course I looked up DID rivet tools and was astonished to find they cost almost as much as a decent rear tire. So, apologies Dave in Iowa, I finally get and appreciate your gift you threw in when you sold me your bike.

Some time ago Grum gave an update on the 8Gen tank vent system and advice on how to ensure no kinks in a narrow section of hose that if restricted on lowering the petrol tank could have dire consequences. The link is here: Just discovered that the 2016-on model incorporates an improvement with a rigid section of plastic tubing between the tank and the longer suction hose. This makes it virtually impossible to kink the hose but you still need to gently pull on the hose under the right hand side of the tank as you lower it. This section of hose is marked with a white band as shown in the photo here:

Thanks folks, I appreciate the comments and hope that it added something nice to your day! If anyone wants to see more pics or just see them out of the PDF, take a look at the album here: https://ibb.co/album/K0cvQR I really dragged out the work I think, essentially it was a full service and a full on checkover but I didn't need to replace things like wheel bearings or head bearings. Remarkably, those are are all fine at 92,000 miles! That said, it all takes time. It took me days to get the chain on right because my rivet tool wasn't great and I had to improvise. And when you've been off the tools for a while you lose confidence in your ability and that needs to be built back up again too. Anyway, I'm glad I did it, and I'm glad you all like it. I have been using it to go to the office this week, that's about 20 miles from where I live and is a fairly easy commute when the weather is decent (most of the riding is on motorway, easy but boring). It's a beautiful bike to ride, always been really. I know it wouldn't put it up to more modern machinery and I can tell you that I wished it had ABS and all of the modern accoutrements when I was riding through flooded roads yesterday (a combination of high tides and heavy rain means Cork city floods a lot). That all said, it got me home in one piece and I enjoyed it. I remember when I started working on it again I said to my wife that I wanted to have something that, LCD clock aside, was almost completely analog in nature. Many of us work with or on computers and we all have phones in our hands these days and I just thought it'd be nice to use something that is a world away from the digital devices we use all of the time. It seems purer and more tangible somehow.

Fitting the front primaries. Fitting the midpipe. This lines up well after the welding work. Stock exhaust clamp now in use. A big plus: The midpipe can now be removed without first removing the rear wheel. Taking a look at how it all comes together. This is really nice. I've ordered three M18x1.5 o2 plugs. Everything else goes back together as normal. Note: Even if the rear primaries are slip fitted together and the header is in one piece. If you need to install or remove the centerstand it can be done by removing the header bolts at the engine. There is then enough flex to access the top right bolt for the centerstand. A parts diagram shows the assembly order of the spacers, flat and spring washers.

Never got the rain from Lee but winds are strong.

Unlike Sweeper, I am a big wine drinker and Grum 350+ km for 8 bottles - you need to get your priorities right. Maybe a trailer next time! More seriously, great to have you back on medium to full throttle. There are so many of us here who have benefited from your tremendous advice and, often, patience with our electrical incompetence. You really are one of VFRDs masters. Best wishes.

Not really new but absent for a long while. I was on here before as 4li3nVFR but have been unable to login for quite some time because the password reset DOES NOT WORK. Anyway, glad to be back. This forum has been super helpful to me in the past with help to resolve issues on my 2005 VFR800. I've only got 13K miles on it so there's a lot of life left in it for the years to come. I'm sure I'll need some more help and advice from you guys.

I think most dealers' shop mechanics do decent work. But not all them have a passion for it. To them it's probably just a job, like many people feel about their work. Which is to say they might do it well, but when it comes to working on our motorcycles, we probably have much more concern about it being perfect when we do our own work vs. when a shop mechanic works on it. As for plugs, it stinks having to pay a dealer shop for something that didn't really need to be done. But knowing it was done and now won't need to be done again for years is some peace of mind. And if you're doing these things yourself, in the long run plugs and filters are cheap enough that if you do replace them more often that is needed you're not really just throwing money away.

Greetings header gang - this update is to let everyone know that we will be able to pick up the current order of headers week after next, so Duc2V4 and I will be contacting all those who placed deposits with a balance due including shipping cost where applicable. Please feel free to contact either or both of us by PM with any questions.

Trip to the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park today. 710km (438 miles) round trip. Averaged 49.8 mpg (Imp Gal). Seat was great, can't complain about a seat that's still comfortable after 438 miles. Left side shown for the exhaust needs.

Sup VFR-Nerds! Pro Tip: If you want something on ebay (Say, a Brembo brake master cylinder 😁), and the seller does not allow for the "Make Offer" button, simply "Add to Wishlist" and wait a few days. I have had luck on sellers dropping 10-20% for a "Private Offer" on many items I have wishlisted. Just watch your email. Shiny side up, Rubber side down!

Finally some good pics. Full Moon on the rise tonight. Not as "Super" as expected, but still pretty cool.

Thanks!, now I just need to convert all measurements to metric to understand anything 😅

As coolant heats up it exands, so running the engine with the radiator cap off will lead to overflows when some heats gets into the system. The point about hitting 107C at idle suggests that the radiator fan is not coming on. That should be cycling on around 101C and off at 98C and you should be able to hear or see that happening. If not you may have a broken wire, blown fuse or stuck fan blade. The thermostat sounds like it is working normally 78-80C is the normal opening point.

I have spare socks...

Removing the stock system is pretty straightforward. Remove tail plastic, remove rear wheel, remove Remus can and link pipe. Remove front fairings, loosen right foot stay, remove heat shield. Header bolts all loose, rear primaries disconnected, and the stock system shifts out just fine. Once the bike is back on the sidestand the centerstand can be removed. The bike certainly looks good with all of this stuff out of the way. I also cleaned up surfaces while the access was there. With everything ready, the first step was fitting the Delkevic copper gaskets. They're just a little big - but this is a good thing once all is assembled. You can see that the ring wouldn't just fit but needed a little manipulation to sit centered. My initial reaction was - oh no! Spend the time to make the entire gasket centered in the exhaust port. I noticed on the front ports there is some chipping of the external casting. Once fitted they stay in on their own and don't fall out unless disturbed. Looking at the rear ports, here are the gaskets fitted. I was told that the left rear primary slip joint was a tight fit. This is true - I had test fitted these before they went on the bike. The right slips on easily enough, while the left was quite tight. Wiggling and slightly twisting, it does slip on all the way though. Same thing removing the slip fitting. I put a marker dot on the slip fittings as an index, so I could tell when it was fitted all the way when on the bike. With the rear primaries loosely fitted and the same in the front. Here is the view before joining the slip fittings. A bit of strength to align these while lifting the header up, both began their slip fit. A moment of manipulating by hand and they fit as much as they would go. Out comes the ratchet strap with a piece of cloth to protect the surfaces. I squeezed the left joint first and then the right. Once the strap was pulling, light taps on the slip joint pulled them right into place. This was surprisingly easy considering how tight this appeared while test fitting. After these joints were fitted, the remaining 4 points attaching to the bike all lined up where they should. Very nice!

I was going to say that's a VFR700F RC26, the lack of "750" on the lower fairing is typically the giveaway...but actually both the "VFR" and the "V4 GEAR DRIVEN CAMS" on the fairing are wrong so it's almost certainly been repainted at some point and it could easily be either a 700/RC26 or a 750/RC24. Almost impossible otherwise to know without getting up close and checking the VIN or plate. Still my favourite colour scheme for them. VFR700F RC26 VFR750F RC24

Did score a 86 pulse generator on ebay! From Australia!

not great pics, but it looks pretty good.

Good tip, re bicyclist tools. "It’s also important that you prepare the relevant component you’re fitting. It’s always worth adding a lower-strength threadlock or an anti-seize to prevent a bolt from loosening over time, but it also allows you to tighten the bolt up to a lower torque. You should always have suitable threadlock or anti-seize on any bolts – never have them dry." However, this^^ is potentially bad advice... Most torque specs are for "lightly lubricated" fasteners. True, they are not "dry", but neither are they the same as for threads slathered in anti-seize or thread lock. Because torque wrenches read drag, any time you decrease drag by making the threads slippery you affect the torque setting. Beware that you cannot use the OEM torque reading "as is" if you change something which increases thread lubrication. It is therefore recommended that the torque setting be reduced 25% - 50% if you lubricate threads where the OEM torque spec does not call for any special lubrication. (YMMV.) Ciao, JZH

more pics hard to do on the phone

Hah! I actually contemplated what color, and I chose red for those reasons. White would be for the general public.

Whew! Back from the Fall Ride - excellent time. Highly recommend going if you are at all on the fence about attending. Able to stitch together a few videos for your viewing enjoyment - these are just some of the roads... Start of day run - temp in the 50s (F) so the pace shows the rider, tires and road cold condition plus is was a recce run for the road condition. Yeah, yeah, excuses, excuses. We get to watch Sweeper demonstrate his skills, finally! The one below is from the Spring Ride but since The Snake is North of Asheville it kind of belongs in this collection Enjoy watching. Cheers, VFRpwr

Your 89 will be different than 86/87

Well, its been a minute, here's the latest. The shock is on its way home! New radiator cap, hoses, o-rings and thermostat. (no water pump stuff) The carbs hold gas and are installed, engine is filled up, buttoned up and ready to test. The exhaust is cleaned up a little; the old Kerker White Tip collector has a couple more years left, the can is home made about 1995ish the Yosh. end cap was a donation from a long passed riding buddy, he sent it to me when I hit a deer with the bike up in Northern Wisconsin that when I wiped what was left of the old Kerker can. (fun times) So just occupying my time garage, hopefully this weekend the bike will be on her own two feet and we'll see if the old girl will fire up. P.S. started playing with the bodywork...

I mean, who doesn't need to light their ciggies while riding down the road?

Two round headlights were a requirement for an "RC" tribute.

Thank you. Started as a Track Bike. Came out so good, I finished the build with the street equipment and then later swapped in a frame with a title. Getting ready. Titled bike on the lift with another engine. It actually made the swap easier and now I have the original engine completely restored as a spare.

Hello, I have been reading up on your forums learning about the VFR’s, great bikes and awesome forum. Just purchased a 1995 750 “barn find” with 21,000 miles and a 1997 enthusiast owned 30,000 miles. Looking for decent phone mounts. Any suggestions? Thank you. Brett

Sorry, but I had to chuckle at this! Honda doesn't make bearings (or many of the other parts they use on their bikes and then sell as replacements), so you will never find a bearing with the name "Honda" on it. On the box or packaging, sure--that's why there's an OEM markup of 50-100%... KOYO is one of Honda's OEM suppliers, so the quality will be on-par with any of the world's major bearing manufacturers. Moreover, most (but not all) of the bearings and seals Honda uses are standard automotive sizes and configurations, so once you decipher the codes, you can shop around and fit bearings from your favourite manufacturer. Years ago I saved a large chunk of money by replacing the bearings in my 3rd gen with new ones sourced from various suppliers and manufacturers. Only a few of them were available at a reasonable price via the Honda distribution system. The table below is from 2005, so a few years out of date (!), but it will give you the idea... Honda VFR750F-P—Chassis Bearings and Seals (Based on 1993 U.K.-model w/1998 VTR1000F fork conversion. Read the Notes below. Use at your own risk!) Description Type # Honda Part Number Original ID numbers ID OD W Comments Source Price each swing-arm main bearing—left needle roller 1 91071-MR7-003 HMK 2830 Japan UU NTN 28 37 30 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals City DSS ACB £11.61 £9.08 £7.00 swing-arm dust seal—left 1 91202-MR7-003 SDO 28 37 4 A2 ACS 28 37 4 City DSS ACB £2.20 £2.85 £2.50 swing-arm main bearing—right radial ball 2 91072-MR7-003 6904 Japan WS NTN 20 37 9 no integrated dust seals City DSS ACB £4.20 £7.74 £5.85 swing-arm dust seal—right 1 91214-MR7-003 SDO 26 37 5 A5 ACS 26 37 5 (26 37 7 supplied by City-might fit) City DSS ACB £2.20 £2.85 £4.20 swing-arm pivot collar B inner race 1 52106-MR7-000 N/A DSS £13.06 suspension linkage bearing (at swing-arm) needle roller 1 91071-KV3-005 BHM 1725 Japan Koyo 17 24 25 no cage for rollers, no integrated dust seals DSS £11.51 suspension linkage bearing (in shock connecting rod & shock arm) needle roller 4 91072-MJ0-003 7E-HMK 1725 Japan WS NTN 17 24 25 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals A&P DSS ACB £8.50 £8.87 £6.50 suspension linkage bearing (at shock absorber) needle roller 1 91072-KT7-003 7W-HMK 1720 NTN 17 24 20 caged rollers, no integrated dust seals A&P DSS ACB £8.50 £8.88 £ suspension linkage oil seal 8 91262-MG7-005 NOK AE8444H 17 27 5 A&P DSS ACB £1.87 £2.06 £ suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) inner race 1 52462-ML7-000 N/A 17 DSS £8.82 suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at shock absorber) inner race 1 52477-KT7-000 N/A 17 DSS £5.08 suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at swing arm) inner race 1 52463-KV3-000 N/A 17 DSS £5.51 suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) inner race 1 52463-MT4-000 N/A 17 DSS £7.32 wheel bearing—front radial ball 2 91054-MN8-741 6004 20 42 12 integrated black dust seals on both sides DSS ACB £11.00£5.50 wheel bearing dust seal—front 2 91257-KA3-711 AE1544F NOK 28 42 8 DSS ACB £3.80 £2.00 sprocket carrier bearing radial ball 1 91061-MT4-003 DF 0768 LU Japan NTN 35 55 20 integrated (red) dust seals on both sides City-5wk DSS DSS-wait ACB-3wk £25.20 £50.22£37.64£16.40 sprocket carrier dust seal 1 91258-ML7-003 SDO 45 55 5 ACS 45 55 5 DSS £3.90 sprocket carrier o-ring 1 91352-MN8-003 N/A 2 City DSS £0.42 £0.82 rear hub bearing—right needle roller 1 91062-MR7-003 8Q-NK 50x62x25-1 Japan WS NTN 50 62 25 caged rollers, integrated black dust seal on one side A&P DSS-wait DSS £10.69£30.82£41.09 rear hub bearing dust seal 1 91284-MR7-003 SDO 50 62 5 ACS B8 50 62 5 City DSS £2.38 £4.75 rear hub bearing—left radial ball 2 91061-ML0-731 6908RS Japan Koyo 40 62 12 integrated black dust seal on one side – plus plastic linking ring to lock both bearings together (leaving single black seals facing outwards on each side) City DSS DSS-wait ACB £33.22£50.22£37.67£14.40 steering stem bearing—upper angular contact ball (1) 91015-KT8-005 32005X Japan MCI 26 47 15 (note ID—must be 26mm) ACB £8.40 steering stem bearing—upper tapered roller (1) 91015-425-832 N/A 26 47 15 (note ID—must be 26mm) DSS steering stem bearing dust seal—upper 1 53214-KA4-701 N/A 27 48 4 metal ring with rubber edge DSS £2.47 steering stem bearing—lower angular contact ball (1) 91016-KT8-005 32006JR Japan MCI 30 55 17 DSS steering stem bearing—lower tapered roller (1) 91016-371-000 N/A 30 55 17 (32006JRRS— has integral dust seal) Moore £13.20 steering stem bearing dust seal—lower (1) 53214-371-010 N/A 31 56 4 metal ring with rubber edge DSS £3.50 UK-based Sources Key: ACB = A.C. Belting Ltd, 58 Kingsholm Road, Gloucester GL1 3BQ (01452) 410 968 (Jason) A&P = Angus & Perthshire Bearings, Unit 62A, Buccaneer Way, Perth Airfield, Scone, Perthshire PH2 6PL (01738) 553 479 City = City Seals and Bearings Ltd, 23/25 Stevenson Road, Sheffield S9 3XG (0114) 243 5343 (Jason) DSS = David Silver Spares, Unit 14, Masterlord Industrial Estate, Station Road, Leiston, Suffolk IP16 4JD (01728) 833 020 DSS-wait = Optional 2-3 week wait, resulting in a 25% discount. Moore = Moore International, 104 Ashley Road, Parkstone, Poole, Dorset BH14 9BN (01202) 462 220 Notes: Steering stem bearings were originally angular-contact ball bearings; it is common to replace with tapered roller bearings, though these are more difficult to adjust properly. Tapered rollers are available from many aftermarket sources, but also from Honda (note that these Honda part numbers have not been verified). Both types of steering stem bearings use separate metal/rubber dust seals; but the optional tapered roller 32006RS lower bearing incorporates a dust seal, so no separate seal is required. The top bearing used on many Hondas (including the VFR750FL-P) is a non-standard size. Although it is often marked "32005", it is actually a 32005 (this is an ISO standard bearing number) with a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect. Needless to say, this means it won't fit onto the steering stem no matter how hard you hit it. <G> Some bearing manufacturers helpfully call this bearing "32005/26", but some do not! Front wheel bearings are for a ’94-’97 FR-FV, since the VSource.org FP uses a front wheel from a later RC36. Ciao, JZH

Welcome back to your 8th gen Grum! Great to hear you are riding again, and with purpose(wine)! Stay healthy and ride more.

Grum, it's good to hear you are doing well. Great idea for the wine transport... I'm not much on wine myself, but a good porter or stout... Very best wishes.

By the frame, it has to be a 94 - 97. And... does the bike have a left side? And a rear? 😉📷

No worries, here you go. Zip up the inside case then load it into the pannier. Works a treat, I can fit 4 to a panier without exceeding the weight limit of the pannier. Cheers.

We're here to help, despite our actions...

Here's what still shows with the cowl on. There's a rib in the casting that is a logical starting trim point.

Typically if I have the clutch apart like that because I'm chasing a slip or verifying status of a new to me bike, it's not going back together without new fibers and springs. I don't want to do the work over and now I have a known starting point. I have found in the past that sometimes fibers are just "done' regardless of their thickness. I almost always scuff the used metals a bit radially. My new to me Hawk GT started slipping just in 4th or 5th under heavy load (38K original clutch). I had the clutch cover off but the way the clutch is designed you have to remove the staked nut on the clutch basket to replace the disks. I just popped in new EBC springs (which you can easily do) and it got me thru the rest of the season, but finally started slipping again. New fibers and scuffed metals and it is now awesome.

Just thought I'd share photos of my bike with it's new seat. I found an old and seriously decaying Corbin seat on FleaBay for not much. Got it to Carriage Upholstery in Lacombe, AB and they refurbished it and re-covered it for me. It started attracting comments as soon as I put it on. Looks pretty nice and is fairly comfortable. Long ride into the mountains on Sunday, so I'll know how comfortable it is for a full day of riding soon enough. Stew

Hi Greg. You sure have covered a lot of bases..... - What led up to this situation? Bike recently serviced, modifications, new battery fitting, R/R being replaced, etc. or just happened for no obvious reason? - Does your bike have the Honda H.I.S.S. key security system? - Try holding the clutch lever in, sidestand UP while cranking, does this make any difference? - Assume battery terminals are clean and tight? - Did you check for any active Fi fault codes, Sidestand must be Down? - Assume your Fi light goes OFF normally after Fuel Prime has completed at Ignition Switch On? - Are you very sure you don't have a spark, not just a flooded start situation? Plugs not soaking wet with fuel when removed? Possible leaky injectors? Perhaps a bad batch of fuel? Fuel Tank water condensation? Don't have a rodents nest in the Airbox, any chewed wires? Just thinking outside the square a little! Check the Neutral and Sidestand switch saftey logic Grounds at the ECM, probe these with a meter making sure these Grounds come and go with the operation of both Sidestand and Neutral switch. Make sure these Grounds are good, not just to frame but back to the battery Negative Terminal. - Neutral Switch Ground should be at A7 (Black ECM connector) a Green/Red wire. - SideStand Switch Ground should be at A20 a Green/White wire. - Make sure the ECM GROUNDS at the ECM Gray Connector B1, B2 Green/Pink wires and B14 Green wire are good back to the battery Negative terminal. Remove both ECM plugs have a very close inspection of pins and sockets, check for any sign of corrosion/oxidization especially for the A7 and A20 pins/sockets. Give the connectors a spray of something like CRC 2-26 electrical contact spray. Note - Your ECM connections might vary depending on year/version However the ECM wire colour codes should be standard. For Info - Faulty BAS (Bank Angle Sensor) = No Fuel Prime and Fi Light permanently On. Also, you can be sure that if you had an issue with either Cam or Ignition Pulse Sensors or their wiring the ECM would certainly let you know with Code 18 or 19. Good Luck, keep us posted. Do widzenia.

Very nice bike! Just rebuilt the carbs on mine this spring, all new ethanol resistant parts. Refurbished Corbin seat too. Mine has a left exit exhaust, 4-1 by Sandy Bike Spares, not sure if they're still around. It was terrible when I got it, but with a lot of cutting, grinding and re-welding, it produced 97hp at the rear wheel with a modified airbox and jets.

As this is a VFR, possibly a better use for that location would be to fit a voltmeter! Ciao, JZH