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The minimum is still 15. There was a misunderstanding with the builder but ultimately the builder's pipe supplier is the culprit here. That being said, sfdownhill and I are taking a little break from this for the moment. Never say never but probably won't be for a while, if we do go again. This last run seemed to take forever just to get in the orders and then to get them completed seemed prolonged as well. I'm glad to be part of it and can't thank everyone enough for being patient and even purchasing them. Also like to add a big thanks to CornerCarver, his loaning us his 2 Bros he

These will be fitted in June at MOT time

Finally got around to fitting an 847 today. I've had no problems with the 6th gen OEM R/R but after 32,000 miles its output had become less stable. I have a Datel voltmeter and where it used to run at a steady 14.6v, it was moving around more between about 14.5v and 14.8v. The latter was making me uneasy b/c if it begins to fail and spikes too high it can possibly affect the ECU. This is an easier swap than I think widely believed and a great upgrade for the stator's life. Got it from Jack at Roadstercycle. The kit is really clean and very robust. If you're not familiar, the 847 is a se

A few months ago, I found this new, old-stock 2014 VFR at a nearby Honda dealer. It was still in the shipping crate and offered at a very hefty discount from the original MSRP, so I brought it home. Since I'm a tall guy, I installed risers and lowered pegs. I also added an Arrow exhaust and Power Commander V. I have ordered a new shock/spring and will have the forks rebuilt later this summer to accommodate my weight. I recently did a 1k mile trip with it and the suspension was my only real complaint. It's a great daily bike and fits nicely between my track bikes and dual-sports. I'

If you remove the wool tufts, the airflow will probably improve. We routinely shear the local sheep to prevent them overheating around here.

Quick clean up for the weekend. 23 and still looking pretty good. I really should get around at getting a different slip-on but I just haven’t put to much time into it. I really miss having the center stand though.

2021 SpringRide is in the books. If you didn't show, you missed a great one! I drove up to CasadeCarver on Friday to meet CornerCarver and Clarkson for a ride to Franklin where the rest of the PreRide crew was waiting. When I loaded my bikes in the trailer, I discovered that my CB500X had a leaking fork seal. No problem, I had the seals ready for Racetech install. I was lucky enough to have some help from MiniCarver installing the new seals. It went perfectly of course!😀 We had some hotel mixups and ended up with only one room so Steve was nice enough to put us all up in his basemen

If it looks like meat and comes in a can, there's a really good chance it might be SPAM.

Installed a new seat cover - the original started cracking a few weeks ago, and all of a sudden, it was opening up in six or seven places throughout the seat. Looks better than stock and not nearly as slippery. Also did an oil change, coolant change and air filter. good to go for the summer. Also did coolant and oil on the RC51. Just realized this is in the 8th gen forum, must be the fumes from the contact cement on the seat cover...

Today was Dyno day so back in 2009 I had the bike tuned with a PC3 and I cut the tips on the stock exhaust that was the only mod I did on my Dads bike sadly he passed away last January and never got to see this completed basically he didn’t want me messing with it to much lol after new plugs O2 block off plates VFRD headers and custom mid pipe to a pair of FMF apex cans I have got to say these headers are legit !!!! blue line is what I started with in 09 red line is after the stated mods I did and green line is where we are at mom

Only had time for a quick test ride, so it will be a bit before the RapidBike catches on to what's different in the back end here. But...I mostly like it! Only issue I have is the header plus exhaust is louder than I was hoping. On the highway it's not too bad, but at low speed it's way up there. If you get off the bike and stand ten feet back, at idle...quieter than you think. Yet it is loud, so I will be going through a lot of earplugs I'm sure. Performance wise, wow! It's a positive change across the rev range, and once again the higher gears are yet more useable at low RP

After a two week Covid-19 lockdown due again to Quarantine incompetence, and now with only a 25km distance from home tavel allowance.🤬 Did a basic service 84,000kms. Oil and filter, airfilter, fuelled her up and added a small bottle of injector cleaner, then went for a short run up the highway, and some back roads. Put an instant smile on my face. Love this baby and she continues to purr like a kitten. Cheers.

Got a close call yesterday, thought I share. For starters I do not like to ride at night, local 4 and 2 legged wildlife come out to play and there is lots or road hazard lately. Shredded truck tires and boat stuff being most frequently noted. Yesterday though I was coming back home well after sunset, stopped at light to join local street after exiting expressway. Checked both ways as usual then concentrated on traffic coming up from the left so I can ease in. Give myself a go after spotting beak in traffic and looked right last time and there it was bicycle bugger right in front o

Hi all, I've just bought a vfr 750 FK, pretty much blind, its got MoT, the electrics work and runs fine, it is however as you'd expect a bit tatty round the edges, so this winter its going in the garage and getting worked on. Looking forwards to reading technical advice as I go through the forums.

Unfortunately, a drill bit may very well spin, too... So, before you get all medieval on it, try using an impact ratchet/rattle gun and a long Allen key to loosen it (again). The problem is that the lower valve body you're screwing into (or out of) is not anchored to anything within the fork, so it can spin within the cartridge. The impact-type wrench usually manages to jolt it free when conventional tools just spin. Be careful with the Allen key, however, as the OEM M8 cap screw is the "shallow head" type, so it is easier to round it out than with a normal screw: Make sure it i

When you buy bazookas for mufflers, it’s not going to be quiet. 😁

Danno, thanks for the info. Did not know about 775's and the false information regarding them. Cogswell's question and Grum's answer now has me thinking, should I add a fuse and possibly remove the C/B? Felt odd during install there was no fuse. Here's some more info with pictures on how I mounted the 847. I used the following stainless hardware. The narrow base weld nuts came from mcmaster, other hardware from local hardware store. M6 button head 40 mm length (2) M6 fender washer (2) M6 standard washer (2) M6 narrow-base weld nut (2) https://www.mc

Cogs recalls correctly, I purchased the steering stem RAM mount for my 7th gen from VFRD member Huntingguns five years ago, see photos below. Haven't seen him on the site for a while, but the concept is excellent--rock solid, and great line-of-sight when riding.

New tank pad... old one was getting discoloured. Took about 45 mins of scraping and a healthy dose of WD40 to get it off. Wasn't sure when I ordered this online but now I think it fits the bike nicely... Also painted the fuel cap. I had a cheap ebay aftermarket twist off cap, which I loved, but now that I have a garage and I park the bike inside full time - I can't have the fumes building up. That cap looked great and functioned great but didnt seal in the vapours. Outside I didn't care so much. At any rate I didn't want the silver cap so after reading about some other folks

I replaced mine with the MOSFET FA020AA kit from Jack at Roadstercycle and can’t complain. It’s simple, reasonable priced and I mounted mine on the left side of the subframe.

So I received the first of my exhaust stud bets today - a different part number listed by Honda as M6x22. It's a dead ringer for the VFR stud, 35mm total length and the unthreaded section is in the same place, with equal threaded lengths on either side. Part number is 92900-060220B. The title on eBay was "QTY 2 NOS HONDA CRANK CYLINDER STUD BOLT 6X22 XR600 GB500 CB400 92900-06022-0B" Of course, now I need the two "special nuts," but those are available in stock at Partzilla and elsewhere anyway.

Hello all, say hello to who I think shall be named Nanner. A little about me. I'm 44, wanted a bike since I was a teenager. Pulled the plug last year, picked up a Duke 390 to cut my teeth with. Took to riding pretty quickly and decided it was time for an upgrade, so here she is. Was a one owner, approximately 25k on the clock. I say approximately because it had the dead LCD issue which I will be rectifying shortly. So far all that's been done is tires (Dunlop RS3), chain and sprockets (JT), and an oil change. Next on the list is the reg/rec upgrade. After that....who

S'cuse me while I whip this out 🤠

Progress... The VFRD headers are visually wider diameter on the inside, and my OEM gaskets were definitely intruding into the exhaust stream. Had no problem hand-seating the new copper gaskets in the rear exhaust ports. Going to clean as I go but smooth so far!

Having the suspension serviced at the same place i had it modded, MCT Suspension near Stowmarket.

After almost ten years w/o a (running) VFR, I am back on the road with a beautiful 2007 RWB Interceptor. In the intervening years I mostly rode a 1998 Honda SuperHawk (soon up for sale). After 500 miles I'm already more comfortable on the Interceptor than I ever was the SuperHawk. I live in North Carolina and love riding in the mountains of NC/VA/WVA and GA. Happy to be part of this community!

found it!

As VFR78 rightly states the 8gen only specifies 10w30. From what I've read and heard this is more about frictional losses at operating temperature when using a 30 over a 40 oil and achieving Honda's power specifications. However the 40 oil may offer better engine protection at high operating temps. Many 8gen owners who are previous 6gen owners (like myself) continue to run the same 10w40 without issues in the 8gen. YMMV. Oh No! Sorry, I didn't want to start another Oil debate.

Here is the bike with panels hastily reattached. Best I can supply on short notice. Snapped the chain and pulled sprockets tonight. Frightening amount of crud built up around chain, a good dozen links were frozen, explains why the chain was rattling. Should have new drive installed by end of the week so I can get her on the road. glad to be aboard.

I've also used RAM mounts (U-bolt base) from the gas tank bolts and put a ball just in front of the tank with a 6" extension. https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-231ZU (you just need some longer tank bolts - longer metric ones) or On my current adventure bikes I've gone with the X Mount system and it works surprisingly well. You can also mount it on the front brake reservoir bolts.

Note that problems start with bare brass spade connectors in factory wiring; which corrodes over time and causes overheating. So always upgrade specs to tin or zinc-coated connectors. Another problem is current capacity. Highest-rated 1/4" spade connector handles only 24-amp! Honda uses it in 30-amp circuit! So of course it'll overheat and burn. There's special connectors made for higher-current with better springs: https://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi-Fuse-Modules/p_820374.h_820405.r_IF1003 Or use bolt-on maxi-fuse holder: https://www.delcity.net/store/MAXI®-Fuse-Blocks/p_9241

Bit of a safety issue doing that, potential of unexpected bike jolting forward, possible damage to the starter motor and starter relay. Not sure if the 5th gen has the "launch assist " like the 6 and 8gens where the rpm is slightly increased (via the ECM) as you let the clutch out when in gear, kind of an anti stall assist. Shorting the clutch switch wiring will screw that system. Another potentially nasty situation with shorted clutch switch wiring is an accidental pressing of the starter switch while riding, the starter will attempt to engage! The clutch s

I sometimes wonder why manufacturers put together such lame design configurations. The two conclusions I've come to have been that for one the average half-life of a typical bike is probably not very long (wrecked /stolen/neglected) so just make it to last for that average life and/or two the design is such to facilitate ease and speed of assembly. That fuse block seems like a lousy idea, but during the build all the workers need to do is snap the two halfs together and move on. We're all probably operating these bikes well past their expected life so find ourselves overcoming these types o

This was when out for the ride grabbing a beverage and a snack. The weather was great except a bit breezy here and there pushing us around a bit but I’ll take it!

Trackdays scheduled for July, can’t wait. this is from last year. IMG_8799.MP4

The orange junction block seem to be the culprit. See pictures. As a quick fix I cut the connector and mashed all the wires together with a big wire nut, and the FI light has gone away, and the bike is running well. To answer Grum’s other questions. The FI light was full brightness. The bike died instantly when the FI light was on. I’ve checked the main fuses and they are ok. I did not check the instrument panel, but that no longer seems necessary. Some questions about soldering all these wires together. What gage do you recommend for the wire going back to

And the weight savings on changing out the stock mufflers will be significant. So much so you'll need to adjust your suspension

I've re-painted covers before, and I did it by removing them, then stripping off the old paint with chemical paint stripper, then spray painting them. If you tried to do the job in situ you could only really spray over the old paint. Removing covers is not difficult, but there's oil behind them, so it's best to remove them during an oil change. Gaskets can rip, so have new ones on hand. The Honda Workshop Manual shows you what you need to do, as does the Haynes manual. Ciao, JZH

Just got home this afternoon. Pics and details when I get caught up a bit. We had over thirty bikes and about 13 or so VFR's this year.

Yeah, it's worth it - cut my three day trip short, but luckily I made it home 500+ miles on 2 eggs in the radiator. Also repaired it myself, as I work at a welding shop. If not it would have been $1200 towing, and $800 for a new radiator.....but let me tell you, the memories are priceless! Or you can spend less than $100 and enjoy your whole trip!

I run my mountain bike lights on my road bike if I ride at night. They're brighter than a standard car headlamp and no one will miss them. But I also have these reflective rim strip things that work really well: https://www.ridewithfiks.com/ And sometimes these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N51XBDB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Mine are blue, and several times when I was riding on pitch black nights in Washington State, you could tell that the cars coming over the hill were hitting the brakes thinking it might be

I've discussed this with people who ride bicycles on the sidewalk (as a cyclist who does not) and suggested that even though they are supposed to follow the rules of the road and stay on the road things would be much improved if they picked just one set of rules and followed them. Want to ride on the sidewalk intended for pedestrians? Then stop at crossings, get off your bike and walk it across the crossing as a pedestrian. Well, that would be inconvenient. They only endanger themselves but put everyone else at fault, and since it's never enforced it'll never change. I'm sure there is a correl

Well, good news, I've got them about lined up. I used wood shims from Lowes to separate/unseparate them until they were about right. Bad news...two of my exhaust studs unscrewed out of the engine block rather than unbolt. The bolts are seized pretty hard. Talking to sfdownhill, not sure it's a good idea to screw them back in as-is since they will sit further out. Soaking them in PB Blaster before I try a round of new tricks to get them off. They don't look that bad, but hard to get a grip on. I'm on travel next Monday so a week wait for new studs and bolts isn't a huge deal b

Now it's the turn of the rear shock.

Excuse the little bit of oil that splashed on the window... I had just hopped off it and snapped a quick iPhone pic... And there appears to be a gigantic tree growing out of my gas tank. THAT part was not a SebSpeed custom part.

Today fitted rear Honda hugger and a Delkevic exhaust.