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yes insurance paid me out a few weeks ago, didnt get what the bike was worth to me, i was toying up the idea of a vfr1200, or a gen 8 vfr800 but the insurance just didnt pay me enough money, and decided not to get a bike loan at this stage, but i ended up finding low km immaculate a limited matt black 2004 cbr1100xx that i had always wanted, so got it for a good price. i still have a 1998 vfr800 gen 5 i rebuild for the track in the garage.

Mercy for StromShadow and his Flambeau VFR... however I've seen this problem before... Fire can happen when corrosion builds up over time between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire... Everyone should perform a one time inspection of their QD and take appropriate action like replace the QD or just solder the wires together... As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ... Story goes that Bob and Pam Solloway of Coventry UK... a couple of RC freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flambeau... First call was to check the alternator quick disconnect at the transformer rectifier... I was positive that the QD had suffered enough resistance to heat and melt the insulation on the wires... the wires got enough to start a fire which all most consumed her prize... As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my bike into a crispy critter... Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation... Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem... My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires directly and seal with heat shrink tubing... I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire... Mr.RC45 dark but 100% functional stator... engine oil causes the insulation to darken... notice the part of the insulation that doesn’t rest in the oil is unchanged... so don't toss your stator just because its dark... test it to determine serviceability...

NO LONGER AVAILABLE This 1991 3rd gen VFR750 has clean non-salvage Arizona title Rear wheel NOT included, but the good condition, straight OEM 5/6 gen rear wheel/tire in photos can be had for $150. Does include all the following: - all powertrain parts engine, carbs, airbox, etc - OEM headers - straight frame, swingarm, forks - straight front wheel - dent-free gas tank [one scrape - see photo] - seat [tired but no rips or holes] - handlebars/controls - complete undamaged instrument panel/gauge cluster - complete front and rear brake systems - everything else in photos except rear wheel Available for local pickup in North San Diego county. I am posting it here for a week in case a VFRD member has been looking for a 3rd gen project. After a week it gets listed as free to the vultures on craigslist. No offense to craigslisters - sometimes I'm one of the vultures, too.

It probably also depends on how much you're hanging out there... Outside of a terminal illness, I'm always going to be quite a bit above the intended weight range for any motorcycle. For someone my size, I couldn't possibly disagree with you more!

Assume you will be using a plug similar to this. The center is the positive and the outer contacts are the negative. PM regards your March visit, take you up on that beer

5th gen motors and gear boxes are practically bullet proof. The PO might have changed the gears and not the chain. Go with a new set of chain and gears and you’ll be happy. They are maintenance items and they wear out...

Haven’s Budget Inn is where I like to stay in Franklin. It’s an old-school place and that’s part of its charm. Locally-owned and operated. It’s commonly referred to as “the hiker motel”, as they run a daily shuttle to the AT for through-hikers. As such, there is usually a bit of activity outside the rooms, with hikers hanging out, talking, and enjoying beverages. Rate is ~$50.

Holy Socks! What a run of bad luck to spoil a get-away. I hope your insurance comes through for you. I can sympathize with your broken heart watching your steed immolate. And it's great that you yourself did not get burned. The terrain you videoed is quite stark. The state of Montana is called Big Sky Country. Your Terra Australis Incognita puts that name to shame. Yes please.

Have you noticed that your bike is hard to start or Vtec doesn't work or kick in under normal operating characteristics? If so there might be a problem with your ignition pulse generator/wiring to it. If your Vtec works as normal follow the below troubleshooting guide directly from the Honda service manual.

Hey MaxSwell. I don't know what you've been drinking or smoking lately, but Thanks for your kind words though grossly over exaggerated. At my age and with the help of some little blue tablets, I promise to "keep it up" for as long as I can!! Now why is it my helmet doesn't fit anymore?? Regards and Cheers.

Just in case anyone was curious.... this is how a cold bike sitting for 3 weeks starts with a semi dead battery at 1 degree Celsius (34F) with the fast idle was nut adjusted to 3 turns. It will rev up to 2000 rpm until the cold oil gets flowing then up to 2300 rpm until a coolant temperature of about 44C (111F) where it slowly comes down until the temp reaches 60C (140F) where the rpms will go back to the normal 1200 rpm idle. And, yes, even before the swap it was this slow to start in the cold especially after sitting so long. I should also mention, the idle when cold used to be around 800-900 rpm VID_20191101_171655712.mp4

I came across this short story about the birth of the VFR. I tried to copy the link but it copied the link to the Cycle World app. It's in the 4th edition of 2018.

For a delink job and going to different front forks, .. for the rear you do need to change out the master cylinder to a 14mm diameter. Options.. F4i, VTR1000, RC51, CBR600RR. All use the same base castings. - I just bought a '02 RC51 m/c new, I didnt want to have to rebuild. --- The rear caliper pistons need to be working together. I used a bridge line that works fine, and one OEM brake line from the m/c to the caliper, I think I still have pictures in my gallery. - Other guys have just used 2 OEM lines to the caliper and then even others have just drilled out a path in the caliper so just one line is needed, and then one hydraulic port is sealed. All work fine. Please dont forget this step, your rear brake will be crap if you dont. Photos -- I have been running this setup a long time now, and it still works well. Cheers

You'll be operating all three of the rear caliper pistons with the rear master cylinder rather than just the outer two. The middle was previously operated by the secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, but now you're going to link all three rear pistons together.

The axle is hollow, but it tapers down to a smaller I.D. approx. .5" in from the threaded end. (probably so that the end doesn't squish in when the nut is torqued?) The threaded rod I used slipped through nicely until I reached that point, so I cut some threads in the very end to resolve that issue. The spools are on, but unfortunately, my PitBull is not tall enough to life the wheel completely off the ground. Not a big deal since this setup is only good for servicing the chain anyway. I've ordered a different rear wheel stand that doesn't require spools and will allow for wheel removal.

or you just use your head.. add 3 grounds from your wire harness to the frame.. front, mid, and back.. from the green wire in the main harness.. and remove the connector block from the stator to the r/r wires. watch the voltage go over 14 in a blink.. i recommend adding a computer fan over the r/r as heat is a killer.

cheers for all the help guys, just wanted to make sure before i start pulling it apart, i have done chain and sprockets before, just not on a bike with a single sided swing arm, and not this one specifically

The hub nut does not need to come off. On my 97 there are 6 bolts with 14mm nuts that hold the rear sprocket on the hub assembly, I assume its similar on your 2014. Here is a video made by a member here that details the whole process, which is really fairly easy. The torque value on the bolts is 33 newtons or 24 ft. lbs. Have at it 🙂

Rear is hollow enough to store nuts in.

I remember when small capacity 4 cylinder bikes were pretty much the norm in the 80s. Compared to today's ubiquitous parallel twins they seem very exotic. I have heard a rumour that Kawasaki are bringing out an inline 4 cylinder 250. Should be interesting if true. Here are some old pictures of my VF400 from 1984. Owned a year and then I couldn't 'afford to insure it so had to sell it on.

Me 2-I weigh between 225 and 240 lbs (depending on my hibernation schedule) and the original fork springs were way too soft-upgraded to new springs and fork internals from Jamie and WOW-what a difference. I cannot stress how much better the front end feels now vs prior to the install. Now I just need to order that new rear shock he's selling.

$2900 SOLD SOLD SOLD Up for sale is my pristine 1998 VFR800 Interceptor. Only 17,133 adult miles (three owners), mostly original condition in Italian Red, with a few tasteful upgrades:* Aftermarket tinted windscreen* Aftermarket brake and clutch levers* Later model mirrors (better looking)* Upgraded (brighter) headlight bulbs* LED brake/tail light bulbs* Rear fender trimmed (for looks)The maintenance is up-to-date. Just completed:* Spark plugs* Flushed hydraulics* Coolant flush* Air filter* Brake calipers cleaned, checked* Oil and filter about 1000 miles agoThis bike has a factory center stand and rear passenger seat cowl. Included are the passenger grab handles. Tires are Avon Angel GT with about 1000 miles on them. The chain and sprockets look nearly new. Also included is the special chain adjustment tool. Flaws: a small dent on the very forward area of the muffler, a small touched up area on the left side of the fuel tank (the camera couldn't pick it up). If you're looking for an excellent example of the fifth-generation VFR, this is it. This bike is ready to ride, no disappointments, no issues. Clear and clean Illinois title in my name.Walk-around and startup video: https://youtu.be/93GYjy0EArk Link to 49 hi-res photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmHNGUUS My website: http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog.htmlPrice is $2900Contact Joe for more information, call, text or email.Delivery via open trailer within a reasonable distance is possible with arrangementsThanks for looking! Joe 608-807-7829 joe.nelson@ymail.com (If you're new to these bikes, here's some background on the fifth-generation: This is Honda's fifth-generation Interceptor and was a whole new bike from the previous VFR, while retaining the heart of the Interceptor, the unique V4 engine. Many owners consider this to be the best of the VFR line, retaining the signature gear-driven cams of the previous design, while excluding the later complex and unnecessary VTEC valve design. Horsepower is 108, redline is 11,800rpm and top speed just shy of 150mph. The beautiful and practical single-sided swingarm remained. Brakes are a very effective linked system.)

Next time you are heading this way - let me know. I am a convenient stop on the Cassiar route to Alaska! Which honestly - is the best route to Alaska. As for taste in bikes - I have to admit that I stumbled on this one. Back a long time ago I had a '85 vf500f that I loved. Unfortunately, she came to an ignominious end at the hands of an inattentive driver of a ford tempo. I had lusted after VFRs in my youth - but could never afford them. I wasn't really in the market for a sport-tourer as I live in ADV country - but the price just kept coming down and down - until I really couldn't say no. As for dirt - maybe some stiffer springs, more aggressive tires, some upright bars???? I know sacrilege - but if Honda made the Africa Twin and Africa V-Four - I am going shopping because I love that engine!! My plan is to get her completely sorted mechanically this winter and go for a nice long cruse somewhere warm this spring. I don't really want to modify anything. Just nice and stock and reliable and Honda! If I still lover her when I get back - then it is true love.

Ditto... I’m in for 5th gen and 8th gen sets. PM sent.

I have large hands. Not a huge, but not a small person either (6'1"). I reach in, and replace by feel...dont remove anything to get access. Matt

Tempted? I thought you were gonna offload your 500's? Anyway, I like to keep my VF for "relaxed"/"commuting" rides. When it comes to "rearset" rides, I have the tool for that... @Skids sorry!!!!

:-)

Camping in Shawnee State Park, Ohio

I'm indifferent to the linked brakes, they are complicated but functionally they are kinda nice for street riding. If I had a problem with my linked brakes I'd fix it rather than properly de-link as I think to do it properly would be a large undertaking. Plus these are old bikes and there are tons of cheap used parts out there to fix any aspect of this system. Getting new fluid into all the far reaches is the hard part of the linked brakes and I suppose things get stuck due to the lack of this maintenance. You might want to take apart and clean both the stuck one and the ebay valve and install whichever one is the least sketch.

I looked up the parts on Partzilla, none of the 5G PCV show as available. The 6G part is available for $60, but I have no idea if that would interchange. So your options are wreckers or a part from a different model. Or you could try and repair it. The PCV function is designed to stop the rear brake from locking up due to weight transfer. As you crank on front brake and the SMC compresses, it applies more and more pressure to the rear caliper at a time when weight is transferring to the front end. The PCV relieves the excess pressure and allows it to drop and reduce rear brake pressure to the centre piston. I would expect that the function won't change between models but the fine details e.g. spring rate or piston size might. From the schematic and the external appearance it looks like you could remove the two screws and the spring and I assume that will enable removal of the internal components for cleaning. I'm betting there is a gunk build-up that is stopping fluid flow but no actual parts damage.

JOLO..... Good that my pal has garage space....

The Abba superbike stand is also an option.

Well, after I drove six hours yesterday, I found that I had left the keys to both bikes in the van at home. My most excellent wife got up and drove half way to meet me. The PreRide started at 2:00 today. Light rain this afternoon around Boome(of course) and wet roads. Now for an excellent meal and some taste beverage on the porch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This works, its dark enuff like a good used oil..

I definitely agree up to a point... there are so many variables involved beyond just oil that any evidence is essentially anecdotal unless you have access to dealership service records. Since I don't have access to that info, it leaves me giving at least a touch of credence to anecdotal evidence. Even just given what we have to work with here on VFRD there's a pretty big mileage range, you mention clutch slipping starting around 27k, and I suspect we can find members here who've run over 100k without ever touching their clutch. Does oil account for the difference, or is it riding style or any of a hundred other factors? Basically, we don't have enough clean data for science, so we fall back on speculation. Specifically, I'm speculating that clutch material has gotten better. I'm also willing to accept the speculation that mileage is probably a bigger factor than oil. Just to further muddy the waters, I suspect that there probably are some legitimate cases of oil causing a slipping motorcycle clutch, but that they're probably mostly related to "miracle" oils like the old PTFE formula Slick 50 from back in the day. My personal VFR expertise is limited to a sample size of exactly one VFR, and I really only have knowledge of what it has been through in the miles I've owned it. Everything else is just people talking on the internet, which is all this is to anyone else. It's an oil thread... why spoil the fun by bringing science into it. 😆

We can share our takes thanks to the net and VFRD... The holy trinity of science is 1)Reason 2)Observation 3)Experience... employing those tools we observe that the primary cause clutch slip are high mileage... mileage is the constant among all of the clutches that begin to slip... oil is not a constant... we can't established a constant when one owner swears so and so oil caused my clutch slip whereas an other owner equally swears so and so oil never made my clutch slip... but under close visual scrutiny we see that both clutches began to slip due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over mileage... mileage has always been the constant and never the brand or type of oil...

I'd put money on #2. You don't hear those stories about newer bikes and I'm POSITIVE the general public hasn't gotten any smarter!

Hey wait, that was the white bike I saw in the minivan when I delivered the OEM muffler wasn't it? lol...

View from the Kancamagus Highway looking south. Probably my favorite area to ride in my neck of the woods, the Kancamagus Highway in the White Mountains between Conway and Lincoln, NH. It's only about two hours from my house (near Boston) if you take the interstate and a local highway (I95 and HWY 16) heading up the east side towards Conway, which is what I did. There's three tolls along the way totaling $3.50. Alternatively you can take I93 north all the way to Lincoln only paying one toll that costs $1. 93 is faster but 95/HWY16 is more interesting. This is the longest trip I have ever taken on my Interceptor in a single day, 400 miles and man was I sore the next day. Didn't help that it was really hot later in the day and I didn't hydrate enough suffering some leg cramping. I should add, there are a lot of pics of the Interceptor below... I've been here quite a few times with my other bikes and really was just thinking about taking photos of my bike at some of my favorite stops. Chocorua Lake is a great place to stop and just chill. Very relaxing and usually not too busy. The Swift River that runs along the eastern side of the Kancamagus Highway. Lots of people just wade and play in the water here. More spectacular views from the top of the highway overlooking the mountains. A lunch stop at One Love Brewery in Lincoln, NH. The bartender recommended these French Dip Sliders and now I would recommend them as well. Really good. There were a pair of antique cars stopped along the Basin which is just north of Lincoln along the Styles Bridges Highway in Franconia Notch State Park. A view along Franconia Notch. A really mellow divided highway with sweepers that cut between the mountains. A retired Cog train. These trains still run up Mt. Washington. Notice the angled engine that is designed for going up the grade of the mountain tracks. This old model is sitting along HWY 302 near a restaurant. Stopped along Saco Lake. You get here from Franconia Notch by taking HWY 3 or 302 from Styles Bridges Highway (I93) N. Sitting right at the edge of Crawford Notch along HWY 302. Right after this is a big drop down with some fairly tight turns. It's a fun run as long as there isn't traffic holding you up. Normally I would continue along HWY 302 to Bear Notch Road which connects with the Kancamagus Highway and bypasses North Conway and Conway. Bear Notch Road is very technical if you take it at speed but today there was too much traffic so I turned around and went back around 302 to Franconia Notch before heading home. Took a stop at the Flume for a break from the heat and get some water in the beautiful visitor's center. This is a great place to visit if you have more time. For a small fee you can take a two mile hike through some amazing landscapes. Bonus VFR pic! After the Flume I headed home along 93 south. 70mph posted all the way to Concord, NH. I had a few runs of 80mph keeping pace with the traffic. Surprisingly I was effortlessly getting 200 miles per tank with a bar or two on the gauge still showing when I stopped to fill. I didn't hit vtec all that often but I wasn't babying the bike. I'd be lying if I said the VFR was comfortable for a 400 mile day for me. I can do it but I was quite sore the next day. Still, love the bike and glad to know that I can take it on a longer ride, especially since most of my favorite roads are at least an hour away from home.

I just sent mine. My bad.

There ya go nice and light BST Carbon Wheels for an RC45, not a straight swap, but worth it IMO, but the price might shock you. Front is 2.25kg, rear is 3kg, these are the road use ones with alloy hubs. The race version are lighter still with magnesium hubs. Stock 5th gen wheels are 4.5 & 6 kg respectively. This setup with Ti front axle & all bolts in the brakes, pinch etc saved 4.5kg of unsprung weight, & in the rear with Ti bolts, my own design Cush drive etc saved 6.5kg, that’s 11kg out of the bikes weight from the best place possible.

2014 / 2015 - VFR800F / RC79 / 8th Gen Service Manual View File Good Morning, I found this helpful link, it appears to be a service manual for the 8th Gen VFR800F / RC79 https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=67493 Submitter Ya33a Submitted 05/13/19 Category Owners Manuals and other  

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