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expvet

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About expvet

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY
  • In My Garage:
    06 VFR with Leo Vince exhaust, Power Commander V and Sargent seat

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  1. I agree. It is really only interfacing with the electrical connector. The hose will only be connected as a token piece but not affecting anything. Possibly stated for ease of reattachment or as reminder to plug back into the 5 way. But they do make typos in those manuals from time to time, so they cannot always be taken as 100% accurate
  2. The first time I did it about 2 years ago using my Carbtune. I referenced this well done video from a VFRD member (link below). If you pick it up at 3:20 he states why the MAP is better off being disconnected of vacuum and electrical connections. I did the sync without the connections and afterwards there was a nice improvement. This time I will do it with vacuum and electrics connected as the manual states ( Grum notice the manual says both should be connected). If anyone has any further input feel free to chime in. Sometimes these manuals either misprint or are proven wrong by practical experiences. I did the CCT swap a while ago, the manual states for the upper CCT that removal of throttle body was necessary but here I found that with just the airbox removed and extra long needle nose pliers the upper CCT was easily replaced. I did it without any problems and saved hours of labor.
  3. I am going to do a starter valve sync soon and have read different approaches as to whether the MAP electrical connector and it's vacuum hose should be attached or disconnected. The manual shows that they both should be, but I have read on VFRD and VFR World varying opinions on as to if they should or should not be attached. Any insights?
  4. You are most welcome. Come on folks, lets each do our part to keep VFRD going. Just one post of DYI performance, diagnosis or repair information you get here is a heck of a lot better than going to the dealer, buying the wrong equipment or wasting hours doing something the hard way. So any donation will pay for itself in no time.
  5. Hi expvet, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  6. If you have a Honda car dealer nearby the Honda Blue Type 2 coolant is the exact same formula as the Pro Honda HP Coolant, only the color is different (Blue vs. Green). In the event you do not here is the Amazon link. $22.00 a gallon including shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-Long-Life-Coolant/dp/B006YX9YZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1548514551&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+coolant+type+2+blue
  7. It has been a while but this Northeast summer was one of the rainiest bad riding ones I can remember. As stated earlier the misfiring was something that would mysteriously disappear when I would put the bike on the sidestand and resume when upright. I was going to disengage the sidestand and test the fuel regulator but while doing some on and off the sidestand observation I began to notice that what was affecting the the good idle/misfiring was really when my weight (185 lbs.) was on and off the seat. When I started to look at it from that angle I observed that my Power Commander, which is in a small slot right behind the rear brake fluid reservoir, was directly under a tab on the underside of my Sargent seat. I noticed a slight depression on the Commander's case right where the tab sat. I relocated the PC in the slot so the tab totally clears it and that seems to have resolved the issue. It seems as if the slow building of the depression eventually must have resulted in pressure on a circuit board component that either cut or interfered with a signal that messed with the mix. The bike even runs a bit smoother in the lower revs. It possibly may have been showing some gradual performance degradation signs as the depression was building that were too subtle to notice at first but eventually led to the misfiring issue. It has been flawless the last three days of commuting ,so I think this may have solved the problem. What a nightmare, had I not found this and went through the sidestand and pressure regulator checks without results it would have gone to a shop, which may or may not have found the real cause of the problem but definitely would have been a couple of hundred bucks. Thanks to all for pointing me through the process of elimination, it helped isolate the cause. Now to enjoy some fall riding before the weather turns into winter storage time.
  8. I very much appreciate the suggestions. Last weekend I removed the airbox to check the vacuum hoses, everything looked fine. This weekend I will drain and replace the gas, check the fuel pressure regulator as well as the injectors and wires leading to it. I will also pull the plugs and look at their condition, but they were installed new way less than 1,000 miles ago. Will report my findings when done.
  9. @ klrtovfr Good idea, will check wires and connectors this weekend. @ VARIABLE9 Not good idea, sold stock to VFRWorld member in Toronto. If anyone has other suggestions, please chime in.
  10. I have a 2006 VFR with 8,800 miles on it. Today while riding home stopped at a light the engine began to run rough and the idle dropped below 1000 rpm. It stayed on but was low on power. I rode it home and could rev up to 4000 rpm but it felt like it was misfiring. There was no backfire. When I got home and put the bike on the side stand the idle suddenly smoothed out and I could rev it without issues but once I got on and straightened it out off the stand in a few seconds the bad idle from earlier began. This repeats consistently. I noticed that from one exhaust muffler (I have Leo Vince) the exhaust is cooler than the other but cannot say if this is different than usual since I have never compared the two before. Last year near the end of the summer the bike suddenly would not turn over. This was remedied with new plugs but it has only been about 1,000 miles or less that I have put on these plugs. Any ideas?
  11. This is the link for the tensioner replacement without throttle body removal guide. I used this and it was very straight forward. Took about two no rush hours to do both. No need to rush and just be careful when removing and inserting them that the plunger at the end stays on. Those throttle bodies are a pain and not necessary to remove. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/76-cam-chain-tensioner-without-throttle-body-removal/
  12. Hi expvet, Thank you for your donation of $25.00. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  13. I used a mini vice grip and they came out pretty easy. No way they were coming out with a philips.
  14. Just to be 100.1% sure, I installed my Mellodude PAIR rear block off plate (will do front next week) and as in the first pic left the plate with the holes in, left 4 of the the components in the second pic out and as in pic 3 put the plates with the rubber gaskets on, then installed the PAIR blockoff plate. My question is with pic 2, these upper 4 copper colored plates above the gasket plate stay out, correct?
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