airwalk

Well done, wiring/electrical issues are the most frustrating to diagnose/correct

Some revealing testing can be done with a pot of heated water & candy thermometer, realism could be added by using a 50/50 mix. Hard to duplicate flow in system but it could reveal flawed openings,etc. mix might be hard on your favourite pot though😏

Thermostat? Even new parts can sometimes have flaws….

I recall how good it felt to finally solve an electrical issue on my ‘86(took weeks), congratulation & kudos 😅

Testing the ac w/bulb could show a phase that’s weaker in output but you should use a 60-100 watt ac(household) bulb. I believe the rotor size&stator changed 2003 on as you say, dimensions would be available from a source more knowledgeable than I am🤔 check out roadster cycle for testing procedures, he used to have lotsa tips on there, testing w/bulb being one of them…

I would suspect stator fault(s) before loss of magnetic properties unless the magnets are electro type, which these aren’t. But this puzzle has come to the grasping straws stage, worth a try if another rotor handy. Years ago I had a similar low output stator & it turned out to have one coil with windings that would pass continuity/grounding tests but not actually create power. Unwinding showed a spot of corrosion about 10 turns(layers?) deep into the coil, imagine a multi stranded 12V wire with all but one strand broken, will pass continuity & voltage test but can’t really allow full power transmission.

I’ll be very interested in your solution. I’ve got an older(‘86) vfr that charges @13.7 & has done for so long I don’t recall it ever being higher, although years ago I changed rr, wiring , etc. chasing a 14+ chg.rate without success. Been cursed/blessed with so many elec. issues I’ve come to think it’s the norm😒…

Try fuse holder between rr & batt+, have had problems there a couple times. Most recent showed low & fluctuations on voltmeter while fuse remained intact, previous showed steady & correct meter readings until it finally melted w/,blown fuse, nearly caught fire. Almost as entertaining as chasing intermittent elec. gremlins🥵

If no joy re: pump relay you may be blessed with dodgy pulse coils(under clutch cover). They can fail intermittently with heat & are tedious to diagnose given the heating factor. Also not any longer available from Honda so you’ll likely be looking around the breakers offerings. If I can help you with testing it’ll be my pleasure…

Yes it’ll fit, that’s what I have in mine. No side clearance problems but I seem to recall the slightly larger diameter was fiddly to get in there with a new”shorter” chain that I had just installed, worked fine once in place. Also changes the rake/trail slightly so steering may feel twitchy & fall into corners a bit easier, bars will wanna shake if you let go of them, especially when decelerating. Could be an issue if you’re not aware…

These pumps will function fine without the relay that sends power to them. Relays have been known to give trouble 🤔

Try bypassing fuel pump relay, doubtful the pump itself would intermittently malfunction unless the points it has are sticking together, ‘92 is 33 yrs old, if leakage of fuel gets in there it can make issues…

I’ve had 2 melted fuseholders(aftermarket), both direct lines from RR, OEM fuse circuit not used. 1 gave low readings on voltmeter with partly damaged fuse(& holder), the other showed steady numbers until fuse blew, holder badly overheated, almost caught fire. Both took years to develop, conclusion could be that more frequent inspections might catch poor conductivity before heat appears. Easy enough to do if a person isn’t too lazy😏, both circuits carried loads associated with heated clothing. Can’t imagine that running lights would be an issue…normal size 30A blade fuses used

Yes, should be 30 amp

Over the years I’ve been blessed with 3 of these type incidents, 2 examples were announced before fire/failure via voltmeter, 3rd gremlin displayed steady volts until the fuse blew. Some melting occurred each time though so combustion was lurking😈