airwalk
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next idea was going to be asking you as ive come to know theres a bunch of 700s in your collection. thanks for the follow/confirm
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Specs & procedures widely available, search w/“google”. However, temperature can cause failure so heat parts to normal max. engine operating condition(approx. 220F)..best done in oven as difficult to control max. achieved w/ heat gun/ hairdryer devices...
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learned a bunch of stuff about resistance & heat(most of which isnt in shop manual), things i never wanted to know & likely will never need to know again. Also, frustrating how many of the parts are NLA, ebay to the rescue!
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As tag sez, acts exactly like kill switch clicked to “off” after 20-30 minute running. Restarts perfectly when cooled for 15-20 minutes. Many frustrating days later glitch identified as one of the two pulser coils (inside/under) clutch cover going open w/heat & back to 550-ish ohms when cooled. If you want a long version PM, just hoping this post can save someone the pain/expense of grasping straws while chasing & needlessly replacing parts in frustration.
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60-55 bulbs get too hot for the plastic sockets(parts no longer available new from Honda), but if the bulb prongs fit right any socket will work, as you say. Other sockets could even be made of plastic that’ll stand the heat better, who knows for sure. You can get away with 60-55 bulbs but are likely to eventually have issues, as Honda planned/designed housings & reflectors around the 45-45 bulbs
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Sounds a bit rich for lower throttle openings. You’ve changed a fair number of things that have some influence on air fuel ratio, washers under jet needles could be too thick, 2.5 turns out on idle mix screws is enough if not a bit much(they’re fuel, not air). If the filter requires oiling it might have too much applied. Richness can be caused two associated ways or a combination of both, too much fuel &/or not enough air. If you changed the foam in the sub-air filter it must breathe as freely as the OEM material, found out about this the hard way, thinking a denser (improvised) version would last longer... Can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. Should be interesting to hear your eventual solution(s)
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Float valve seat not secured in body RC36/2
airwalk replied to RC36B's topic in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
Replace carb or fiddle with slightly larger cross sectioned o rings on seat, looks from pic like it has one around it. or might be able to “peen” into body with a punch mark (dimple) in 3 or 4 places on edge of hole it sits in. Best is replacing carb tho -
Same for mine, vfr only tho(‘96)
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Another RC36.1 Restoration
airwalk replied to Gebruiker's topic in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
if you research further youll find that most opinions have the dielectric as an insulator while oxgard is a conductor, to add confusion consider this.. which is more christian, catholic or protestant? i choose to believe oxgard is the least wrong choice..... -
Another RC36.1 Restoration
airwalk replied to Gebruiker's topic in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
oxgard, better idea than s/g, found in elec dept of local "home depot" type store, or even in the mom n pop style hdwre if ya have such a thing -
Front likely more worn than rear, best replace both & chain. Look 4 "hook" profile on surface of teeth chain pulls against when accelerating, if they're mildly worn on that surface it's sometimes possible to turn them over & use the other ramp
