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Last Three Days Content

Showing topics, images, blog entries, files and calendar events posted in for the last 3 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Time has come...

    I'm doing better. Thanks for asking. According to this eBay listing, the bags should fit. I wouldn't know how much a coat of paint would cost though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-VFR1200F-CANDY-PROMINENCE-RED-HARD-SADDLEBAGS-10-12-13/232701608561?epid=1623708243&hash=item362e18c271:m:mvHZxtg2EafQYxPb57y91dw
  3. Gutted stock cat on 02 vfr. Don't do it

    yea that's what my problem was. Just wasn't warmed up to temp. I didn't think anything about the temp being to low for the 4 valves to kick in. My zx14 doesn't have all that.
  4. Battery options

    You are right Philois1984. Will be doing the same and fitting the YTZ14S when the time comes for replacing the original. Mine is a 2014, done 51,000k, (43 months)and whenever the bike is not used for a couple of weeks l hook it up to the charger/maintainer for a few days. The original battery still cranks the bike over fine even in cold! weather. Cheers.
  5. Today
  6. RC51 SP1 SP2 Parts Interchangeability

    Since we are brushing on the topic of brakes, I will share one thing I found while rebuilding brake calipers for a couple different projects: In addition to being different diameters than the SP2/954RR, the SP1 and 929RR front calipers have aluminum(?) alloy pistons where the later are heavier steel pistons. It's not so much a big difference, but this is unsprung weight. If you are looking for every advantage, this might be worth pursuing, but I didn't care given my modest abilities and usage. I would be surprised if the difference added up to 1 lb.
  7. Hi Philois1984, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  8. Much to be Gained from Power Commander?

    $340 is no deal. The place I ordered from fuelmotousa.com has them for $299 (16-005 for 09 VFR800). I paid less than that even and worked out a deal to buy both the PCV and autotune. Can't hurt to send them an email. I haven't had any issues, but wish I had the dual wide band kit for separate banks. However, if I was going to do it again, I would try the rapidbike system or a stand-alone system with greater processing power.
  9. RC49

  10. Don't know if this is the correct section for this question but I will ask anyways... I am working on my VFR streetfighter and am putting a Gen 8 fuel tank/pump on a Gen 6 frame and noticed that the Gen 8 fuel pump assembly does not have a return line. After looking at gen 8 throttle body I realized that the reason for no return line is that they do not even have a FPR to need a return line. Wouldn't that cause a rich mixture at low rpm's without a return (or did Honda change the mapping to account for that). I am think I have two options...either just remove the FPR and put a plug in like Honda or drill a hole , weld a nipple next to the fuel pump on the tank and make my own return line. I like the put a plug in option because it is easy but am some what concerned with excessive fuel pressure. Would like to hear from some fuel gurus and get their thoughts.
  11. Faulty Speedometer

    It's worth replacing once you see it compared to a new one:
  12. Hi guys, Just a quick update after installing my PCV the other day. Install took a couple hours total, well worth the upgrade in my opinion :). My butt-dyno can feel the extra few HP and torque across the board and the VTEC transition is smoother again. Fuel consumption will most likely be slightly more, as to be expected, but not enough to negate the whole of the improvements. Bike mods include the usual: Delkevic slip on, quick shifter, final drive gear change to come in the future. I used the map that Dynojet has on their site and it works just fine. Mucho recommended! :0
  13. 8th Gen headlight VFR800F

    Was aware of that on older bikes. Cheers
  14. VFR400R NC30 For Sale

    I came across a VFR400R for sale. To find it look up Japanese Classics in Richmond, VA. Looks to be in really nice shape. They sell imported JDM cars mostly, but also sometimes bring in motorcycles. They've had a few CBR250RR's as well.
  15. Petcock body leaks

    It's a m3 or m4 tap depending on which screws they provided--just the standard pitch you'd get in every metric tap set...(yes, I do realise you're in the USA!) The NRP kit is useful, but it's a bit overkill for a few o-rings. Ciao,
  16. The 5th gens in the rest of the world use 55/60w bulbs, so unless Honda downgraded the wiring harness just for the US bikes (to save weight?!), there should be no issue whatsoever. But if you're the kind of person who worries about that kind of thing, you may not like the usual "bodge" mentioned above re bending the tabs. H4 bulb tabs are positioned to precisely locate the bulb, and therefore the bulb filaments, relative to the reflector, so bending them or removing them is likely to have an effect on the filament position. Probably not noticeably, however, as reflector headlight systems do not appear to be all that precise to begin with. There are "H4 shims" available, but this is also not exactly an ideal solution because they force the entire bulb to be located several mm rearwards from the OEM position. You might be able to modify the headlight reflectors instead, but this would require splitting the headlight unit (using an oven) to allow the reflectors to be removed and worked on. Which is why most people just bend the tabs! Ciao,
  17. London calling...

    That's a 2.1mm x 3.5mm (or a 2.5mm x 3.5mm) DC barrel connector. Is Maplins still in business? They have them for sure. If you use a non-smart charger, make sure that you don't over-charge the (new) battery, because that would just be inconvenient... Ciao,
  18. Hello from Poland

    Dzien dobry!!! Been to Wroclaw a few times and (eons ago) Warsaw once for work My plan ewas to ride through Poland's Bialowieza in 2016, but a careless driver put a stop to that in Rokiskis LT... :-)
  19. 1992 750

    Don't recall exactly, probably off the headlight or so... The wiring is quite long so might even hooked it up to the (switched) additional BluSea fuse box.
  20. Bought the 1993 on a whim last week to take advantage of BC collector status insurance (own a pristine 1995 as well) , knowing it had issues and too many nicks on plastic for me. May not keep, but I want to enjoy while I have it. Previous owner stated it had carb issues (he's not a mechanic, but he guessed as such). He stated that he changed the fuel filter, fuel pump and regulator (finned type). So my adventure begins and what I have done so far. Day 1 - Threw the bike on a trickle charger to make sure the battery was ok and every day thereafter. Day 2 - It starts easy, but when it gets warm 10 minutes later it starts to stall with RPM dropping just before. Eventually it will not restart. I pulled the tank and removed the air filter. The UNI filter that was probably in there for way too many year as no light gets through it and the foam is broken down. Oil type filter, so nothing dropped into the air box, phew. With no filter the bike runs a little longer, but started getting rough. Added Sea Foam to tank and carbs just in case, but still stalls and won't start until it cooled down. Then noticed the fuel pump was clicking (ok he told me that, but I forgot). Gave up for night. Day 3 - Read some blogs on fuel filters causing issues when bike was warm and bypassed it straight from tank (figured it was cavitating and sure enough the clicking stopped...side note I can blow through the fuel filter easy each way). Now it ran and ran till the wife showed up when I was gonna brag about the fix. Bad mojo No, I am not done yet. I mentioned I put the bike on the trickle charge. It was 13.4V when I started my last attempt today then 14.1 when on choke, then after turning off choke it started to drift down to 12.1V. Won't crank at 12.1 or below, or barely. Should I try my R/R and battery from 1995 VFR? Any other suggestions? I don't actually think its a carb issue as it starts easy with or without choke when cold. It runs for a while till it gets warm (just above 1/2 on temp gauge). Then just dies. If more info is needed to help. 29k miles. It also doesn't have the same pull up and go my 1995 has. Any other ideas, please help. I have read many other blogs, but nothing seams to fit my situation. Mostly cold start issues.
  21. Have to share, Runners note on the source for the oem hugger was aces. The best price and shipped extremely quick for the default price. Just from looking at the hugger, it will last the life of the bike. My aftermarket did not, so recommending for others. Thanks to Runner for being the pioneer and source for this. Dave
  22. Hi Cageless-in-Seattle, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  23. Running in is not as important as it used to be years ago. Metallurgy, machining tolerances and oil technology have vastly improved. Keep the engine free spinning just don't labor the engine, occasionally for short bursts get the rpm higher and higher. After it's first oil change ride it like you stole it.
  24. Yesterday
  25. So I might have done a thing......

    Yep, it was a huge mess.
  26. Hi Broski, Thank you for your donation of 10.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  27. Let her harden for a few days, then a fine pinstripe over the "lines".
  28. A reasonable resource to locate is the Honda Common Service Manual. This is a generic document and explains more about the function of things like carbs than specifics related to models. If you are not happy with how the bike runs, getting it back to stock (or confirming it is stock) is a good starting point. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xz39vanvr66jqeq/Honda Common Service Manual.pdf?dl=0
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