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  2. squirrelman

    New guy- vf750f rebuild

    you still haven't tested the compression ? 😮
  3. Another thing to keep in mind is that after welding the bungs will need to have a tap run thru them to clean up the thread as they shrink and distort during welding. Also, make sure you use an anti-seize on the threads as stainless to stainless will gawl and lock up, especially once there is heat involved. Don't get the anti-seize on the sensor end. Apply it to the threads on the sensor and not in to the bung where it would get pushed out when screwing in the sensor. Phil
  4. Today
  5. Picked up some Michelin Road 5s to replace my Pilot Road 4s. Can't wait for spring. I'm inching to scrub these babies in.
  6. Yesterday
  7. keef

    tube bars without a "kit"

    comfortable bars will vary person to person, and bike to bike, because your feet/hips/hands all have to work together to be comfortable, so pegs/seat/bars all need to work together. If the pegs say sit upright because they are low, the seat says lean forward (say, if you have a longer shock so the rear is higher), and the bars say sit upright, it will feel slightly off, as well.
  8. Thanks, I'll probably go with R&G. Too much uncertainty otherwise. Lost a bit of faith in T-Rex after this episode and noticed that they've changed designs at least three times. I'm thinking the older version might have held up a bit better.
  9. Fritzer

    Tips & Tricks To Help Your Charging System

    Poor charging performance on my '99 led me to your post. After determining that the stator was in good working order, your solution made much sense. After a short time implementing your solution my charging troubles are a thing of the past! Thanks for your posting, it sure helped.
  10. Lorne

    tube bars without a "kit"

    Like you, I didn't know what bend of handlebar to get. In the end I opted for LSL's AN1 bar. Not sure of the dimensions but it turns out that they suit me just fine so I haven't tried any alternatives. I found the throttle cables too short and ended up buying a set for the ST1300. Perhaps more patience and alternate routing would have resolved the problem. There is just a slight contact with the upper cowl at full lock, but no issues with the fuel tank. I still haven't gotten around to fitting bar-end weights. The AN1 bar is aluminum and the wall thickness prevents fitting the oe weights, and I haven't yet found a good alternative. Even so, the alloy bars still have much less vibration than the oe Honda 'bars. Vibration the more important reason I went to a tubular 'bar in the first place. Below is pic of my setup. Good luck,
  11. UpArrrow

    5th gen seat - key doesn't release

    Thanks. First 'net reference I found didn't mention that lever.
  12. BuzznerSuntrusts

    5th gen seat - key doesn't release

    There's a little lever in the back of the helmet lock. Turn key and reach behind to push it down. That releases the seat.
  13. I turn the key clockwise to stop, seat won't lift off. Help please?
  14. Fastdruid

    Video "History of the VFR"

    I agree there... But you can't have it both ways! Either include the HRC/Race bikes or don't. The video as stands mentions some but not others. It mentions the race wins of the VFR/RVF750R... But not the VF750F or VFR750F. It mentions the RS1000RW but not its VF750F based engine or any of the other HRC prototype bikes... apart from the RVF750... which it confuses with the RC30. On a side note, the RC45 was another bike where the marketing department named it against the wishes of HRC (to avoid confusing it with the Prototype/HRC RVF750). It really should have been another VFR750R. If you concentrate just on road/production bikes the lack of mentioning the VF1000R becomes even more puzzling because that was their first production bike with gear driven cams.
  15. timmythecop

    tube bars without a "kit"

    Hello chaps. Without going into too much detail, i recently rode a 2016 BMW R1200 GS 1800 miles from New York City to new Orleans. I fell in love with the bike as everyone told me I would, and I wanted to buy one. Then, on the flight home, I remembered how ugly it was, how expensive it was and how complicated it was. I also realized that I had a perfectly good 6th gen in my garage that I had already decided to make it my long distance bike. So I started poking around and asking questions about LSL, etc. While I was looking, my hand was sorta forced as to what direction to go in, by me finding a set of mounting brackets for 75 bucks. I am not asking "what fits", or "do i have to change xyz", I am asking about preference. The bars depicted in where i am so far were just at hand, so I threw them on there. I have heard CB919 bars and the LSL low bars are groovy. I was hoping to find the superbike bars of my youth with the graceful curves, because I know that they put my hand where I like 'em, but all I seem to find are the Emgo types and those are OK, but i dont know.....If I can get this thing half as comfy as that BMW was, I will be putting a lot of miles on it this year. Please tell what you like and dont like, what worked and what was a problem. Sorry if this topic was done do death before.
  16. Thanks for input Seb and Mohawk I have 10 of the 42mm crush gaskets from UK pictured below. Uncrushed it measures 41.67od 33.61id. Its leading edge can be wedged into the exhaust sleeve on the head, but will probably be deformed by the header before bottoming out in the sleeve: This is what the same gasket looks like after being chucked up in a lathe in an attempt to shave the od for a better fit. So score=1 sacrificial lamb gasket, 9 gaskets remaining for testing: I have not been able to locate the perfect round section copper 42mm crush gasket described elsewhere, but have acquired 10 each of two more gaskets to be tested. The one on the left is billed as 41mm, but before crushing is 40.3od 31.7id, so id is too small. The one on the right is listed as 42mm, and before crushing measures 41.7od 36.3id and can be wheedled into the outside edge of the exhaust sleeve, so has potential [kinda skinny, though].
  17. FromMaine

    New guy- vf750f rebuild

    VF1000R. These are my 2. Edit: Captain 80's beat me to it.
  18. Captain 80s

    New guy- vf750f rebuild

    Those are VF1000R wheels, forks and swingarm.
  19. Re the crush washers I was just having a tidy up in the garage & one of the things I found was the sample crush washer I had pulled out of the exhaust port when I fitted the TBR. So it was a standard sized crush washer of the round section copper type I prefer. I measured it in it’s crushed state, the OD was 39.5-40mm, the ID was 30mm +/- 0.5mm.
  20. Estonez

    New guy- vf750f rebuild

    This is the looks i will be aiming. Could anybody identify the wheels or front fork? Anybody know this bike?
  21. You can weld either bung to the stainless header, ss to ss would be preferred with ss filler rod. Could also weld the mild steel bung to the header using ss rod or silicon bronze brazing wire.
  22. thtanner

    Chinese rip-off Toro’s 5th gen

    They are just using the photos as reference photos. No scam.
  23. Cant't you tell that's a bad design by just looking at it? I recommend R&G Racing for crash protection. https://www.rg-racing.com/browsebike/Honda/VFR800F/2015/
  24. kenbrough

    Chinese rip-off Toro’s 5th gen

    I am a fairly new member. Update me on what you are talking about, please. Is this a scam or...? Could I get more information about what is going on?
  25. Hello, I have a 7th Gen Delkevic 8" Carbon slip on for sale. In good shape with some weather staining on the chrome and pipe. Carbon can is clean with no scratches. The bottom hose clamp bolt is rusty but still functions. This pipe sounds great on throttle but is very poppy when off throttle. Some might like it but for me I didn't. Mounts up using Oem hanger bolt. Will work with center stand. Asking $165 shipped cont. US. PM with any questions. Ian
  26. Don't do that; you're going to set the bike afire! Part of the JIS/Phillips confusion stems from the Japanese calling their JIS-spec cross-head screws "Phillips"!!! Honda also had a problem with the early RC46 windscreen dimpling/melting the dashboard, which they "fixed" by changing the dash to include ugly little raised triangles of extra plastic on the later Y2ks and '01s: Such aesthetic indifference caused me to buy a second-hand set of clocks just to salvage the plastic to swap onto mine. (I will park out of the sun!) Ciao, JZH
  27. JZH

    Video "History of the VFR"

    Interesting. It's not that I don't believe you, but the first image you posted looked like it came from a magazine, not Honda or HRC. But, they (HRC) have not used that terminology since the early '90s (by the time of the '92 NC30 at least, HRC were not appending "RK" to the race kit parts lists and set-up manuals), and none of that literature tells us anything useful, other than that there may have been turn-key HRC race bikes based on the Honda production model RC24. From this evidence you could also argue that the "VFR400RSS" and "VFR400RSP" should be included in the history of the VFR? I've also heard of the "TT-F1" NC30s, so maybe those need a mention as well? It's going to be a rather crowded video! As I have said, in any "history" of the VFR you really need to differentiate between Honda production models and HRC race bikes (and kit bikes), otherwise it just gets confusing. HRC made a lot of race bikes and kit parts over the years, and I suppose it is arguable that the "history" of the VFR could/should include all of them. But not mixed in (jammed in, in some cases) with the production bikes. That's my opinion. Ciao, JZH
  28. The Honda torque arms I'm familiar with (RC30/36/45/46) all use spherical bearings and 10mm bolts, except the NC35, which has some kind of slot arrangement. Ciao, JZH
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