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  2. I think candyredrc46 mentioned that was his preferred filter.. ...just for info, I'm running a BMC filter, that's full width - seems to be fine.....----skip the k&n..
  3. I haven't been following closely, so forgive me if this has been discussed, but pipercross filters have complete filter coverage like the elusive HA-8098
  4. I’m pretty sure the massive amperage output of the jump box toasted your wire harness. The wire to the ignition switch is not fuse-protected and always hot, from the battery. When you turn the key on, that triggers a relay, which powers up the fuse block and the rest of the bike, which are all fuse-protected. Your best bet is to pull the entire harness out of the bike and completely strip it, to assess damage. With any luck, it won’t have melted a bunch of wires together and you can simply repair what you need to. Worst case is you have to find a complete harness and swap it in. Keep in mind, the battery in your bike is less than 200CCA. A vehicle can require upwards of 700CCA. If that jumper box can overcome the dead battery in something that can require three times the cranking amps of your bike and can still start that vehicle, you shouldn’t use it. I’ve completely stripped my harness, due to previous stator and R/R issues. It’s not that bad, once you get it out of the bike.
  5. kenbrough

    looking for yellow seat cowl

    I feel your pain... I am keeping my eye out as well... No luck so far.
  6. Today
  7. Urbanengineer

    Rear LED light cluster for 6th Gen

    @BuzznerSuntrusts my dad followed me once and mentioned how he liked when the rear lit up extra bright... I had a bulb out of course. Only the highs worked.
  8. MaxSwell

    Bad battery cell or someting worse?

    If my memory serves me correctly it is the same for 5gen. I think the FI light stays on until the switch is turned on.
  9. Thanks for the solid input everyone. Between the solid recommendations here, the guys at Attack, and Wade, we’ll get an accurate result. Separate note: it’s a good thing we had the injectors serviced - see printout below. Valve adjustment is taking place now. I’ve got a tech support ticket opened up w K&N to engage them in the search for the big mouth HA-8098. Even after putting photos of the two animals that both have K&N part number HA-8098 stamped into them, K&N is having a hard time getting their arms around the concept.
  10. Grum

    Bad battery cell or someting worse?

    Kill switch activated = No cranking.(for a 6gen)
  11. Anyone have a seat cowl in yellow for a 2k 5th gen they're willing to part with?
  12. I can't say anything helpful about the first 3, so I'll just leave it alone. For number 4 - the PCV + AT uses the LSU 4.2 sensor (yes, 4.2), I'm not sure if this has been updated on newer units. They only sell one replacement regardless, so I'd assume they are all 4.2. Dimensions of the LSU 4.2 tip in mm given on picture. The only part with holes for sampling is the conical part at the very tip. I can think of no reason that any part further back would need to go in the exhaust stream. Number 5 - When it comes to me, I'm still just going to use the one sensor in the final merge. If I was a racer looking for every advantage, then I'd certainly tune by cylinder. YMMV.
  13. RDMcD

    Mystery Shock...

    Could be some of Jamie Daugherty's early work??? just a guess. http://daughertymotorsports.com/
  14. I'm of the 3 bungs camp. Here's the deal, I think the ONLY person here who has a quad of sensors on a VFR is @CandyRedRC46 , and he already has a TBR exhaust. I seriously doubt any of us are going to do more than one, or two, of these lambda sensors. It would be best to just sniff down the exhaust and get the 4 cylinder average, just like we're all going to do. PCIII folks are going to dyno it with a sniffer in the tail, rapidbike MTB and PC Autotune folks are going to stick with our current sensors. As for the question of whether 4 sensors will destroy the flow, I understand the concern. But @CandyRedRC46 had one in each downpipe and has posted impressive dyno runs. We're talking RC45 race bike level numbers on a 6th gen. 120hp is pretty impressive for a VFR. I don't think that's a problem, though if he's still paying attention maybe my tagging him will let HIM tell us of his reasoning. That said, I still don't think it's worth the effort for this particular exercise as most of us just want a nice header that isn't rotten or a chinese piece of marginal quality. A little gain in the high end is a nice benefit, I think most of us will be happy to see it, but the last 2% of horsepower or mileage you get from PERFECTLY balanced cylinder fueling can be left on the table. Oh, also, note that a map on one bike is not going to be the same as a map on another. They may be close, but fine tuning each cylinder on a test bike won't match a differen't bike's airflow, fuel injector condition, etc. If you're looking for a base map for PCIII or non AutoTune folks, I doubt it'll really be helpful for folks who want to build a map for their own bikes. After 20 years, they're all kind of snowflakes, especially with wear and mileage.
  15. Yesterday
  16. We are talking about road bike here not bleeding edge WSBK or MotoGP machines. I would just stick with the 3 bungs as I outlined on my earlier marked up image. I've had good results with this set up in the past. we also need to keep in mind that most add on modules like the RB Racing and PCV will possibly have only 2 maps that directly relate to the OEM ECU and the way the fueling was originally laid out. EG: What headers were merged etc. My 2c worth.
  17. AJB

    Mystery Shock...

    Pulled this off my parts bike (84 VF750F) No markings other than the Hyperco sticker but is this an old aftermarket offering for the Interceptor or has someone adapted it to fit? Thanks!
  18. Agreed, ducnut. You don't pay a lawyer $300/hour then ignore their advice. I'm working to reconcile Wade's concern as the builder with Richard and Jozef's thoroughly vetted tuning procedure. To fly in the face of Wade's direct recommendation at this point would send a message to him that our community does not intend to send.
  19. Re 4 o2 sensors, I think that's the best tuning option for that bike but how does that effect the end user that will have a different setup? 2 stock + 1 wideband I will not be buying 4 MTB modules. Maybe if I was going down the path of diff cams , bigger pistons etc. A Flipping prototype
  20. Fastdruid

    Video "History of the VFR"

    Er, VFR750K is something else again! The VFR750K (RC37) was the training bike version of the RC24. You're getting your production dates out though, it's the other way round. The RC24 based VFR750RK was first in '86 then the RC30 VFR750R(K) was in 1989. I do agree 100% though that it was an utterly stupid thing to call it seeing as 'K' would obviously be used as a year code in 3 years time! It seems to make sense (although I'm only making this up and don't know) that it stands for VFR750 Race Kit. But if that is the case then why did Honda not call it VFR750F-RK? Still, we all know that logic goes out of the window when the marketing team get involved...Just look to the SC45 for evidence there! You say it's not a production model...and it was and wasn't. It was a HRC model. You could buy one...but you could also make one.
  21. All the high-end stuff has sensors in the individual runners. What I can’t say is how far they protrude into exhaust flow. Richard and Jozef know their stuff, given they’ve went so far as to try and campaign a prototype bike in MotoGP (no matter what platform it was based off of), have built some the fastest bikes on the planet and in any paddock, and have bikes that currently remain at the pointy end of any grid. I’d be most inclined to follow their advice, since they’re on the frontline and have firsthand knowledge of what does what.
  22. There's a 92 being parted out on Marktplaats in Holland today, 17 January. That's like a Dutch version of Craig's List. Sortof. Anyway, I found several bits I've been scrounging for at prices that are better than I've been able to find on Ebay in the USA. Lots of bits still available as of today, 17 January. The seller will mail parts. Of course, if you live outside Europe, postage will add up... https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/motoren/onderdelen-honda/m1362885237-alle-onderdelen-vfr-750.html?c=9b26ed2a557deff636f4f8b9c5b7a618 I posted this on the vfrd classified forum but then read the rules which specifically state you cannot post third party sources of stuff there. I can't think of any alternative than to put it here. Of course, the bits will get sold off in a couple days and then this posting will be a dead end. I'm not trying to get around the rules here. I'm only thinking this might be an opportunity for a member to find bits he'd been scrounging for... Not fluent in dutch? Don't let that stop you. You might try english. I've yet to meet a dutch person over the age of about 6 that doesn't speak english...
  23. Ha! Thanks.... waiting on a new header for my NC30 too. My TBR is a bit long in the tooth.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. T-REX got back to me. They're issuing a refund on the kit. They also said they're pulling the kit from all platforms. So I'm going to look for another option or run without. I'm now looking at the GSG sliders from Germany. Looks like they're no cut as well but less to go wrong.
  25. Sounds good Scottie. BTW, you have discerning taste in race bikes!
  26. May I please tap into the collective knowledge base about O2 sensor bung placement? Jozef, the dyno tech/engine builder/tuner at Attack Performance, recommends an O2 sensor in each primary 7 inches from the port for optimum tuning. Jozef has Bosch 4.9 wideband sensors that he installs to facilitate his tuning. The O2 sensors will be removed and the bungs plugged after the dyno tuning process is completed. Wade - the man actually building the headers - does not like the idea of an O2 sensor protruding into each of the four primaries, and strongly recommends against installing them. He does find it acceptable to install a sensor in each primary if the bung height is set such that the sensor's business end does not extend into the gas flow path in the primary. Whether we enable Jozef to tune each cylinder individually, or tune the fueling of all four cylinders together, we will have him set up the PCV's gear sensing and optimize fueling for each gear. In pursuit of optimized tuning of the new header, I seek wise counsel from Mohawk, HighSideNZ, CandyRedRC46, MadScientist, and others who have experimented with O2 sensors for tuning via autotune, dyno, or laptop-strapped-to-bike: [1] Would O2 sensors in all four primaries interrupt the exhaust flow enough to be detrimental? [2] Would Jozef's Bosch 4.9 wideband sensors function correctly if their bungs were placed at a height such that the sensor tips did not extend in to the gas flow? [3] Would the advantages of Jozef being able to tune each cylinder's fueling individually outweigh the potential penalty brought by the O2 sensors' position in the primaries? [4] On a Bosch 4.9 wideband O2 sensor, what is the measured distance from its deepest thread point [where it seats against the bung] to the end tip of its sensor? [5] Should I cease and desist attempting to solve a problem that doesn't exist and have Jozef shove a single sniffer down the tailpipe, then tune a single map for all four cylinders combined? Thanks for kicking in suggestions
  27. That bike must have been hit with considerable force, mine has been knocked over and sustained as much damage as fatshoutybloke or less None of the other available sliders would have faired any better, it saved your tank though Those mild steel bolts that have bent and stretched are the design fail point, as in they were designed to fail that way, the least damaging way Put stainless in there and the heads will snap off, high tensile bolts would either snap or cause a much more destructive failure, like ripping the subframe threads out Given the bike was knocked over how would you like the damage to 1/4 tonne of motorcycle to be? As I said your tank was saved, no mention of damage to the crankcase cover, footpeg, etc ..OK the fairing panel is damaged, but that seems to be all Looking at the puck I cannot see any damage to the outer face, when mine went down the puck looked like fats..
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