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  1. Today
  2. But it landed in a good place... The trip in numbers
  3. The 2 sec fuel prime is a switch on function of the ECU. From memory once the ECU sees crank or cam pulses the Fuel Pump runs continuously. The only other logic input that will kill the ignition and fuel pump is the safety logic of In gear/side stand down. The engine Kill Switch OR Bank Angle Sensor will remove 12v power from, Injectors, Spark Coils and Fuel Pump. The only way the Fuel Pump will run continuously (at Ignition switch On) is either a faulty continuous ground supplied by the ECU, sticking relay contacts of the Fuel Cut Relay, a 12v short across the relay contacts perhaps at the relay base, or the energising ground wire (from the ECU) is shorted to frame/ground. Think you should firstly, as suggested, isolate the Fuel Cut relay by replacement, see what happens. All seems a bit strange that this occurred just after pulling the Fan/Thermo switch plug!
  4. squirrelman

    VFR Slow to rev and bad low end response

    most riders with stupidly loud exhaust are guys in their 20's. how old are you ?
  5. Urbanengineer

    VFR Slow to rev and bad low end response

    Huh! I wondered about that. Thought it was another symptom of my mechanic skills failing to check the VTEC unit or something... turns out the ECU tells it when it's okay to open up VTEC vales when building temp. Thanks for the knowledge. I'll test the flapper tomorrow by putting the bike in gear. These bikes have a lot of stuff that could go wrong. Technology, folks! I appreciate your replies Terry.
  6. Terry

    VFR Slow to rev and bad low end response

    The flapper is closed by intake vacuum and turned on/off by the solenoid, which gets it's instructions from the ECU. It should be closed in gear/clutch out below 5500 rpm/open above that, always open in neutral, or with the clutch pulled in, in gear; at least all of that is true for my 5G; for the 6G I know that things like the VTEC system only function when the engine is properly warmed up, so maybe the flapper is in the same logic? You can check the physical function of the flapper with any source of vacuum, e.g.a brake bleeder, maybe even sucking with your mouth? If that works, then you may have a hose disconnected or the solenoid may not be connected.
  7. People that say old sprockets quickly wear a chain or vice versa are silly, people at the track swap sprockets all the time. Keep your chain at proper spec and lube it and it last longer than it should :)>
  8. Urbanengineer

    Sanding down VTEC Lifters? $34 a Bucket? What!?

    It sucked buying those VTEC buckets but the bike is fast again so I'm happy.
  9. Urbanengineer

    Sanding down VTEC Lifters? $34 a Bucket? What!?

    Cam timing was good, I pulled off the covers again just to make sure. I rechecked all clearances and whatnot, and all were in spec. After putting everything together I discovered the vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the 5-way splitter was cracked (wording) so replacing it helped. Now the bike runs much better. No popping or weirdness. But it's still slow to rev when you just romp on it from idle. I wonder if it's worth fixing or if I should just ride, lol.
  10. Urbanengineer

    VFR Slow to rev and bad low end response

    Well, after replacing that vacuum hose and putting all the stock parts back on everything seems to work well. 😁 Problem I notice now is that the flapper valve doesn't seem to be working. I removed it from the upper airbox and rode around with it connected to the vacuum line and it doesn't "retract" at any RPM. I suppose that means it needs to be replaced? I want factory type performance (flapper mod is always open flapper right?). If it doesnt work.. I assume it is likely vacuum line related. I followed the factory manual for how to run the hoses, triple checked 😢.
  11. I'll also add that as the last of the carb'd V-4's there are no FI lights to sift codes from, no mysterious problems with sensors, etc, no Power Commander needed and few if any electrical gremlins. Those things just run and run if maintained well. Honda got the carbs on those exactly right - unless I lived at high altitude I wouldn't mess with them. They're wonderful bikes that are straighforward for the average person to maintain. My only beef with my 4th gen were the softly sprung and under-damped forks - too much dive for my taste even under moderate braking. It was a comfy ride, but if pushed too hard in corners the suspension would yell "no mas". If I had another one I'd have the suspension re-done by Jamie Daugherty to sportify the cornering - and maybe add an 8 spoke if I could find one. Other than that I wouldn't do a thing to it. They're beautiful bikes with exceptional build quality.
  12. klrtovfr

    Fuel pump won't shut off and no spark.

    Well haven't switched out relay yet. It actually started working correctly once I put the ECU back into my bike. Started up and ran good. I decided to add additional power, ground and monitor wire to the stator. After that it would not stop priming again. I took the ecu grey connector off and slowly seated back onto the ECU with the ignition on and it started working again. Started it up a few times so decided to run into town for fuel and once fueled up it failed again and reseating the grey connector did nothing. What I'm trying to figure out is what inputs the ECU needs in order to switch the ground signal off on the fuel cut. I get no spark when it's not working so it's also killing that signal as well.
  13. Cogswell


    So does a Kennedy 1/2 dollar (apologies in advance to those outside the US). It's a perfect fit - great if you might want to change settings out on the road.
  14. Terry

    VFR800 rear hub

    Interesting question (not that I've ever managed to persuade the axle to come out of my bike), I looked in the 3/4G, 5G and 6G manuals that I have, all were silent on greasing the outside of the eccentric bearing carrier, all specified cleaning the inside of the swingarm. Sounds like you got it right Mohawk..
  15. Grum


    Large screwdriver works fine. Just add a layer of masking tape over the tip.
  16. 007

    2018 VFRD SUMSUM 4

    Cancelled my reservation today so there should be a spot at the Rocket. Other riding got in the way. Happy and sad all at the same time.
  17. Believe it or not, the tank looks fantastic, now. Evapo-Rust works great, without harming finishes. I dropped in a bunch of coated screws to help knock off anything stubborn. It’s been a slow process of changing the position of the soaking tank, every 24hrs. It’ll get there, though.
  18. Yesterday
  19. Priddyboy

    parts issues

    Thanks for the Info. The g-mail is good. I had forgotten I used paypal and that was the way they gave me to get a hold of them also. My part arrived yesterday afternoon, I did not realize that the vfrness was coming from Texas and the other parts from the East coast. I guess I just assumed (I know I shouldn't have done that) all the parts were coming from Wire my bike. No matter now all the parts are here and I can get back on the road. Amen ! to that not a lot of riding days up here so you can't afford to be broke down during the summer. Thanks for the replies.
  20. Mohawk

    VFR800 rear hub

    Well I just replaced the bearings in mine & fitted the hub back in the swing arm. Grease the shaft where it has contact with the bearings and splines that’s all, stops it attracting dirt. I use bearing grease on the bearing areas & copper ease on the splines & nut threaded area. I cleaned up the swing arm hub clamp areas & treated them with some WD40, then popped the hub in. Added some copper ease to the hub where the brake torque arm rides. Both left bearings were shot, the needle bearing was probably OK, but I replaced it anyway.
  21. How many miles do you have on the chain and sprockets? Did I read it right and you have 25,000 kilometers? Hopefully not, that's way too early to be changing out a well lubed chain. And it's not unusual for a chain to have tight spots. I don't think I've ever seen one that was perfect, seems like all of mine on any bike have tight spots. Find the tight spot and adjust the chain slack at that point. Sure, I usually change the chain without changing sprockets. Doesn't really affect my chain wear that much. I usually change the sprockets every other chain change. That's unless the sprockets look really bad. But I also don't try to get the mileage out of a chain that some people do. I figure around 20,000-25,000 miles out of a chain is good enough for me. But I'm a frugal guy and hate to spend money unnecessarily.
  22. sfdownhill

    Cornering question

    +1 for all the input offered here, especially the encouragements to take advanced riding schools and classes. To answer your first question: yes, keep your head pointed ahead of where you are to where you will be, look as far ahead as you can without sacrificing your awareness of near field events and conditions [See 'wide view' below]. On your question on high beams: I use low beams for day. When passing [both day and night] I cover the high beam switch, in case flashing high beams might make an oncoming vehicle aware of me and discourage them from endangering me. At night I use high beams wherever and as much as I can without blasting the eyes of oncoming traffic. My best learning experience with visual technique came from Keith Code's California Superbike School [It's also detailed in the books mentioned in previous posts: 'A Twist of the Wrist' and 'A Twist of the Wrist 2']. In their level 2 riding class, CSS focuses on how to improve your visual perception. They use specific drills to help you train your physiology and psychology to best serve your motorcycling. A primary key to visual skills is always using the wide view described in a previous post by BusyLittleShop. An exercise to play with this concept and develop this perception is to sit in a comfortable chair in your mancave [Or womancave] and look at a fixed object around mid wall height across the room...let's say it's a clock, but it could be a doorknob, etc. [Do not look a TV that is tuned in to motorcycle racing for this exercise]. Without moving your eyes from the clock, shift your attention to a point about 20 degrees to the right. This could be the previously mentioned doorknob, a spot on the wall, a book on a shelf, etc. What you will discover is that while your eyes remain fixed on the clock, you can shift your awareness to other objects within your peripheral view. Practice this with objects above, below, and to either side of the clock. This introduces you to the habit of including much more data in your perception without having to shift the actual focus of your eye off of your target [The clock]. You will find that you can shift your attention from one object to another literally at the speed of thought; much faster than you can move your eyes back and forth. So in this example, the clock is your path of travel, the doorknob is the gravel-covered shoulder of the road, the book high on a shelf is a rider ahead of you, etc. Once you are comfortable with using a wider view and processing the newly increased data stream, then break a corner down into three key geographic segments: [1] turn-in point, [2] apex, and [3] exit. Turn-in points A motorcyclist always uses a turn-in point, because it's impossible to turn unless you begin that turn, and that beginning must occur at some point. But a visually untrained motorcyclist does not often choose a turn-in point. They usually just 'go around the corner'. So to overcome the lazy tendency of not selecting a turn-in point, when approaching every single turn establish a consistent practice of selecting a turn-in point. A turn-in point can be a painted 'XING' on the road, a seam in the pavement, an oil stain large enough be noticeable, a 'deer crossing' sign beside the road, any other reference point at which you decide to begin that turn. Here's a key point: selecting an incorrect turn-in point is better than not selecting one at all. Selecting a turn-in point is taking control of your riding, it's making a definite one-turn-at-a-time decision about where you will begin each and every turn. If when starting out you find you are selecting turn-in points that are too early, then take charge of your riding and consciously move the turn-in points you choose a little later, ie closer to the turn. If you find that you are selecting turn-in points that are too late, reverse the process and consciously choose turn-in points that are earlier, ie further ahead of the turn. The two-step drill Once you've locked in the practice of always selecting a turn-in point for each turn, you can begin to develop a conscious, smooth movement of your vision forward. Do this by: step [1] selecting your turn-in point, say "One" to yourself step [2] as soon as you are confident that you will hit your turn-in point, say "Two" to yourself, and smoothly sweep your vision forward to the apex [For street riding purposes, the apex can be loosely defined as the midpoint of the corner, about halfway through] During this exercise, you say "One" to yourself when you know you will make your turn-in point, and "Two" as you sweep your vision forward to the apex because saying "One" and "Two" builds the sequence into your riding practice and makes sure you choose to consciously take both steps. Deciding you will make your turn-in point needs to happen well before you reach that point. Do not fixate on your turn-in point too long; it is all too easy to watch it go all the way under your wheels, then find your vision adn awareness completely behind your path of travel. Regarding eye movement, think in terms of smoothly sweeping your eyes, not jumping or darting them from point to point. BusyLittleShop makes this same important recommendation in his previous post. Most importantly, do not dart them backward and forward from far ahead to close in, or vice versa.. Your brain interprets visual information in a steady stream, but when you move your eyes suddenly, your brain pauses its visual input stream to save you from perceiving blurred jumbled visual information gathered as your eye muscles move your eyeballs. You can verify this brain behavior by looking at your eyes in a mirror, then moving them quickly away, to another object or target. Or look at another object and jump your focus from that object to your eyes. You cannot see your eyes move, because your brain is not allowing you to perceive visual information during your actual eye movement. Large chunks of visual information are lost when the brain pauses its input stream while you jump your eyes from one spot to another. The best racers in the world all have 'lazy eyes' - they are rock steady and smoothly sweeping with their eyes. Their gaze is so steady that when recorded on video, it actually looks like their eyes are in slow motion. I'll save the three-step drill and corner exits for another longwinded diatribe. Ride safe, always be practicing, seek improvement. Riding better means riding safer.
  23. I just had my chain slack adjusted. 2nd time in about 5000kms. My mechanic pointed out that the chain was adjsuted but it goes up and down slightly when rotating the wheel. Which he showed me (stretching) He said he's seen chains a lot worse and I keep it lubed every 500kms. I probably can finish the summer but would you put in a new chain without changing sprockets. It doesn't make sense to me to put a new chain on sprockets with 25,000kms of wear. What do you guys think?
  24. rhoderage

    Rear axle stuck

    Wow thanks for this! I ended up giving up (for now) and buttoning the bike back up for the season to get on the road. I will swap rotors in the winter... this is great, now that I know i should be prying that collar out I'm optimistic it will make the difference.
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