Terry

I have a very similar stand locally retailed by Torpedo7: https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFH/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front-head-lift-stand It is very easy to use and super stable.

You mean like a 5th gen VFR800...???

As a fault-finding suggestion, I'd suggest you get a multimeter set to current, remove all your fuses and then use the MM to bridge each set of fuses to see which circuit is causing the drain. That would at least narrow your search down some.

Not much wrong with the ST1300, I bought an 09 last year and it is now my do-all bike. All day comfy, huge range, plenty of power. Heavy beast compared to a VFR800 and one needs to allow for that when parking. My one has Racetech modified forks and a Nitron shock, and combined with a decent chassis and brakes, is surprisingly rapid in bends up until the hard parts start to touch. They even handle slow speed well, the weight (and there is plenty) is low down and the bars have plenty of leverage. My only gripe is heat, something I never even noticed on my VFR or VTR, but is reasonably unpleasant

No reply from the OP; maybe he was disappointed/embarrassed by the result?

The attached guide will walk you through figuring out where a fault lies. With the bike running and the battery charged, at 5000rpm you should see 13.5-14.5V across the battery terminals. Less than that and the battery won't be topped up, and more than that can cook th battery (and other more expensive electrical components. A low voltage could be either the RR or stator, high voltage will be RR only. You can test the stator by unplugging the 3-pin plug and checking the resistance between any two pins (should be between 0.5 and 2 ohms), and checking resistance from any pin to ear

First thing I would check is the charging voltage, but you may need to charge up the battery (or use a jumper cable) to get the bike started. Certianly I would be looking first at the RR (charge voltage should be 13.5-14.5V at 5000rpm) and the battery (it might have an internal short) before going any further. Your bike is showing signs of low voltage for re-starting so at the very least the battery is fully discharged, the question is why. The ABS light is almost certainly a symptom not a cause, I was running my FSC600 for a few months on battery power only (with a dead stator) and as the bat

Thanks for posting that up. Not entirely VFR related but I was contemplating fitting some cartridges in place of the damper-rod forks on my Silver Wing scooter; I found the tube end apparatus (which on my scooter houses the one-way valve for the rebound) to be slightly too small a diameter for the cartridge to clear unless I removed it...I have leftover catridges and plenty of valving parts from a previous replacement of non-adjustable cartridges in my 800 with VTR1000F parts. Damper rod forks are just plain nasty once you've experienced a properly resprung and revalved fork... As

Great words of wisdom!!!

Great ride review and pictures. I'm surpised an Ozzy version of this sign wasn't present at the Daintree:

Definitely an old-style mechanical flasher relay in the 5G. They have a 3-pin connector but the 3rd pin is ground, and a 2-pin flasher as shown in your link will work well there.

That would seem unlikely. The easy way to check is to compare part numbers from an online source e.g. Partzilla. From there you can see if the whole caliper part number is the same between a VFR800 and VFR800A, or look at parts like seals or pistons and confirm they are interchangable. I checked the comparison for the left caliper, and from that I can see that the whole caliper part number is different, but the individual components (seals, pistons, SMC etc) are the same. From that I would conclude that the parts are pysically interchangeable but there might be a colour difference to the calip

Surely that is a BORG multimeter, not a Fluke!

That's left field; good thinking, Macgyver!

I've had stock 5G, modified 5G (replaced springs and Gold Valves) and then modified 600F4i forks on my 5G. Bang for buck, the modified 5G fork is pretty good and maybe 95% of what the 600F4i fork offered. The latter seemed to have better quality/design bushings that made for lower friction and a better ride, and the 43mm vs 41mm stanchions were definitely less prone to flex. I never got a lot of value from the external adjusters as they fall into the set and forget category. Using VTR1000F caps/damper rods will get you adjustable rebound if you wanted that for not much $$.