Terry

I think the most significant difference between those two is the extra 0.1 x 17 shim, this will make the shim stack slightly stiffer but not by much as a 0.1mm shim is less than 1/3rd the stiffness of a 0.15mm shim.

I'm with Buzzner on this, one accidental push won't cause a piston to pop out. And if the seals were buggered, I think you'd have fluid leakage there. The disk replacement sounds to me like the shop seeing an opportunity to sell a part and install it while just bleeding the brake to fix your problem. That the problem occurred in the first place is a bit mysterious, but they would have had to push the pistons back to fit the new pads and maybe that has pushed some crud back to the master where it is causing some intermittent pressure loss. I agree with Grum that a flush out is probably the first step.

When I got my 99 5G VFR the shift star was one of the first things I changed, and it was a great improvement. I can highly recommend this. I've had mine for 25000km and can't recall ever missing a shift in that time, and the shifts are more snickety snick than the clunky clunk of OEM.

I visited the NR500 at the Honda Collection Hall at Motegi a few months back. They were very bold trying that.

I've wondered this myself. I suspect the proper way to do this would be to modify the slide pin holder so the slide pins are always engaged with the valves irrespective of the spool valve operation. Or go the whole hog and replace the VTEC valves with the standard valve plus standard bucket and shim. I presume this would then lead to a need to adjust the FI system to suit. Sounds like a black hole down which one could tip money...

Auctmarts fairings for the 5G are compression moulded, not injection. I have a set on my 5G and they are pretty good provided you don't mind massaging a few holes. I sent them a chip of my old fairing and they did a decent colour match for me to match the tank, fender and the OEM L side panel which I retained.

Factorypro do a good info page for CV carb setup, and are where I bought the emulsion tubes for my 900. You should be able to pull the carb tops off and the slides out, and just look at the brass tubes in the carb floor. The tubes can be replaced from inside the float chamber.

I had an RF900 for 18 years, they are a good solid machine but a little uninspiring next to a V4. Have a look at the emulsion tubes in the carbs, mine wore oval over 50,000km and the fuel economy went to crap (plus fowled plugs at low revs) but it was an easy fix.

I worked part-time at a Honda dealer in the mid 80's and we got to use a CBX1000 as a shop hack to get around on. I had no idea what a special machine I was riding. Young and dumb indeed. Now older but still dumb.

I have a 99 (no cat) with a bit over 100,000km on it. It has well-balanced throttle bodies, well-maintained K&N filter, new plugs, correctly working thermostat ( usually sits at 78-80C except in traffic) and in-spec valves. I typically see 270-290km before the last fuel bar starts flashing, and that equates to 16-17 km/L. I thought that was a bit low and have replaced the FPR but that made no difference. It is pretty sensitive to riding style, lots of point and squirt will see that drop, and highway droning would make it a bit higher (but less fun).

I had a rough intro to VF750F ownership when I crashed one whilst test riding it one evening. I'd borrowed it from the dealer I was working part-time for, and he kindly gave me the option of a good trade in for my bike (VF400F), cost for the now crashed 750, and parts at cost....or I could pay his huge insurance excess, not a tough choice. The 750 was a great bike, beautiful (once fixed up) and plenty fast for a 21 year old. I never had cam issues with mine but it did have the standard cam tensioner issues, which I decided were a bit much for an impoverished student, so I sold it and got another VF400F. I still miss the bike and harbour fantasies about a resto-mod project one day.

I have a loose rim, and 157mm is the correct width.

I would suspect your melting fuse block has more to do with corrosion (=increased resistance = heat generation) of the contacts in that block/fuse than the voltage being applied. Still a good idea to check the voltage reaching the battery when running with a multimeter across the battery terminals. More than 15V would place stress on other components but would also start to cook the battery.

Over 30000km on the ST1100, and about 15000km on the VFR and VTR combined.

I'm an LED convert, and have swapped out the H4 halogens for LED's on all my bikes (VFR800, VTR1000, ST1100 and a Vespa). Safe to say I have no issue with the pattern on any of those, and really like the extra light created. I don't quite understand the comments about the effect of the emitters being positioned either side of a central plane; they are, but that means they throw light out practically in a 360 degree sphere, with just a darker spot directly ahead. Directly ahead is also where you will find the low beam cut-off shroud so that makes no difference, as most of the light thrown by the reflector comes off the sides anyway. Out of interest this is the LED beam pattern on my Vespa which comes standard with a 55/60 H4 halogen, showing low beam and high beam. Works the same in my bikes. The bulbs I am using are cheapies off eBay, usually $30 or less for a pair, like this: These are fanless and have given me no grief in more than 2 years of use. They use much less power than a halogen (25W vs 55 or 60) so generate less heat. The only disadvantage with these is that you can install them upside down (DAMHIK) so do make sure to orient them as shown with the low beam shield down.