Terry

Its good that the bike has done 1000 miles since it was re-animated from the long sleep, that would give me confidence that there were few nasty surprises lurking. Rayzerman makes some very good points, I'd add that it is most important to check that the secondary master cylinder on the left fork leg moves freely (should move just a few mm) and applies the back brake when you push the left calliper forward. Also check that the rear wheel spins freely with the brakes off. The SMC can get blocked or seize and at best that just overheats the rear disc, at worst it locks the wheel solid.

Thanks for the heads-up Miguel, and for the effort that you have put into keeping the site going. As others have said, I have "met" some great folks here over the years and gleaned much useful or just entertaining stuff. Enjoy your inferior orange motorcycle!😁

I agree with Danno; my ST1300 has HISS and will turn-over normally on the starter button if I use a non-HISS key but the fuel pump won't run and I presume there is no spark or FI either.

Just like this.

Short drives don't heat the oil enough to drive out any condensation. The combustion process of burning fuel generates water as a by product and some of that enters the crankcase. Check again after the bike has had a decently long run where it has been up to operating temps for 30 or more minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-21MwnRHvl8&t=142s

Not arguing with any of that. I may not have expressed my thought clearly, but given the symptom is (perhaps) rich running due to (perhaps) excessive fuel rail pressure, then checking the fuel pump pressure would seem to be a bit pointless. It seems very unlikely that a stock pump would somehow deliver more flow/pressure than it was meant to, and in case a properly working FPR should control that. If the engine was running badly as a result of LOW fuel flow/pressure then I would absolutely check the pump.

Yes absolutely possible. The vacuum from the intake port reduces the fuel pressure delivered to the rails. If the vacuum hose fails, then the FPR will continue to deliver more fuel than needed when the intake vacuum rises. The other possible failure would be a diaphragm failure within the FPR, and that can lead to fuel leakge directly into the vacuum hose and to the cylinder, and I expect the regulating of pressure wll be compromised as well. How do your spark plugs look?

Mr Honda says to do the fuel pressure check at the fuel pump banjo bolt on the underside of the fuel tank. However...that might be worth doing if the fuel flow/pressure was low. Can't see any point if the pressure is suspected to be high. The fuel pump should always kick out more pressure than needed, hence the function of the regulator downstream.

The rubber feeler on the sidestand pre-date the introduction of the sidestand switch. Their purpose is to flick the stand up before you hit hard parts when you have forgotten to raise the stand. I learned (the hard way) that they don't always work when you flick into a slow tight turn really quickly...

If you pull the spark plugs out, you should be able to roughly judge the fueling by looking at the colour of the insulator on the centre electrode. Black/sooty would be rich, white/light grey is lean and a slight tan colour is usually the Goldilocks Zone. I agree that lacking a cat, the exhaust on the 5th gen is a bit smelly compared to bikes with cats fitted (I also have an MT-10 and ST1300). Are you sure that the hose connecting to the pressure regulator is sealing well? The regulator uses the vacuum from the intake to reduce the fuel pressure under higher vacuum conditions. If that hose is leaking, then the injector pressure will be higher that desirable and more fuel is injected. The two hoses referred to earlier from the tank are the air vent (skinny one) and the filler overflow (the fat one). Ideally you want the fat one to extend down under the bike so a fuel spill during filling doesn't run onto hot headers (but that could fix your rich-running very quickly!). IIRC the skinny hose just needs to head downwards, its just there to allow fuel vapours to expand out or air to be sucked in as fuel is used. In CA that probably should go to a charcoal cannister if you still have one fitted ( that would be hose 1 in the diagram below). The 5-way joint is also only relevant if you have the charcoal cannister fitted (CA). The rest of us have the vacuum hoses plugged into stubs on the airbox.

Paging Dr Grum @Grum I agree that has all the hallmarks of the earthing fault. One reported fix is to cut the earth block out and solder all the earth wires together with a solid path to a chassis ground, but there will be some diagnostics within the earth block that will point to the best solution. I expect that measuring the resistance to ground down the different wires will possibly point out which one is misbehaving. I am no expert but I believe the various earth wires join at the block and then one of them heads to the chassis ground.

Aww shucks...

There's an exception to this which I have done (before I fully trusted the Oxford smart system that cuts power when the bike is parked) which is adding a switched relay into the heated grip circuit; I have hooked into the tail light wires for the trigger voltage for the switch.

Bumblebee suffered from that exact problem when I carelessly rotated the brake master for my preferred wrist angle. Good suggestion Sir.