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Terry

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Terry last won the day on February 4

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About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1997 VTR1000FV, 2009 ST1300, 2001 FSC600 SilverWing

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  1. Given this is speed related, I would still think the coupler at the sprocket bolt would be a likely cause. Are you confident the coupler is making good contact onto the bolt, it is easy to damage the coupler if you refit the speed sensor without aligning the coupler on the bolt first.
  2. Tyre pressures (like the Jundland Wastes) are not to be taken lightly. My new-from-the-dealer 1996 RF900 handled like a wheelbarrow full of wet cement as it only had 12psi up front...
  3. I would also replace the small copper washers that seal the damper bolt under the forklegs.
  4. WASHER, SEALING (6.5MM) 90463-ML7-000
  5. Like this... https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1999/vfr800fi-a-interceptor/frame
  6. So a diluted coolant lasts for a couple of years hurtling around a boiling hot engine but the concentrate only lasts 3 years on a shelf in a sealed bottle??? I call BS from the manufacturer, sounds like they are just trying to encourage sales to me...
  7. The voltmeter will take a trivial amount of power so no issue adding that to the same relay as the grips, but you will find the meter will show a lower voltage when the grips are running. As long as you bear that in mind then I saw no issue with that and had the same setup on my VFR. Interesting that the control for the Oxford Hotgrips is a timed pulse system; lower settings pulse the power off for longer, the off time is shorter for the higher temperature settings; this is very visible if you watch the voltage as it will cycle up and down with the heating cycles.
  8. The stock fork position is 41mm from the top of the triple to the end of the fork tube according to the manual.
  9. 11 is the bushing and usually slips in without a fight, followed by 10 which is the washer then 21 is the seal which does need to be driven home until you can fit the circlip 17 into its groove. However...none of that affects the extended fork length. I assume you have got the fork cap 19 screwed on tight? Otherwise the length of the fork is totally dependent on the length of the stanchion tube 9 with its end pulling up against the underside of the top-out spring 15. Springs and spacers don't affect this either unless there was no preload as a result. It is possible for the bottom-
  10. The length of the extended fork is detemined by the engagement of the end of the fork stanchion against the top-out spring on the damper tube. The damper tube position is fixed as it is pulled into the bottom of the leg by the damper bolt, and as V4 says above, the oil-lock piece is sandwiched in there so if it was missing then one damper will sit a few mm lower and the overall assembly will be shorter by the same amount. I would certainly expect the forks to be near enough to exactly the same length normally.
  11. They probably just recalibrated the odometer so it reads 25% high....
  12. The VTR and 5G definitely use the same bearings, but the steering stem length could be different, as could the yoke offset. I put 6G yokes and CBR600F4 forks onto my 5G as I was confident the frame/geometry was largely unchanged between the 5 and 6G, and the only issue I had was getting the steering lock pin to align with the socket in the frame, which required the 5G lock mechanism to be shimmed down off the 6G triple.
  13. A bigger diameter MC should give you a more wooden brake as there is less hydraulic advantage over the calliper pistons; not a bad thing for a rear brake in my view.
  14. The axle and spacers do not need to change. VTR cartridges/fork caps are much the same as VFR certainly from a dimension, threadsize etc perspective, and the damping parts are just the same (with an added adjustable rebound bleed) so just as poor, and you ought to at least get a GoldValve for compression. VFR springs would be OK but you may need to adjust the spacer length, some PVC pipe is perfect for this. Or buy some decent springs from Somic, Racetech etc that are specific to your weight. Use of CBR calipers requires removal of a little of the lower mounting bracket on the fork,
  15. The heat up issue is not to do with the size of the cooler but with the airflow (or a lack of it). Unless you have air flowing through a cooler/radiator then the heat will just build up in the fluid no matter how big the item is.
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