Terry

The only thing that sticks clutch plates together is cold oil and viscosity. My bikes never suffer from that, probably because they never sits still long enough. The clutch has an inner and an outer, where the fibre discs engage with the outer, driven from the crankshaft, and the steel discs engage with the inner and drive the gearbox input. When the engine is in neutral, the clutch spins as one unit, but when you drop into 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled, the inner will quickly stop and the outer carries on spinning, which is why there is often a bit of a clonk. I'd suggest letting the engine get up to a good operating temperature as that will give the clutch a chance to be bathed in nice hot oil. At that point I would shut off the engine and put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled, and then try rocking the bike back and forth to free up the sticky plates. If you need to get to it, clutch disassembly is no big deal but you will need a spare gasket and the patience to scrape off the old one without galling the mating surface. You can do it without dropping the oil, on the sidestand. Just don't drop foreign objects into the open sump...I just swing the case to the side and hang it up so I don't need to do anything with the ignition pulser wires. My 6th gen is below but the 5th is basically identical. Remove the 5 bolts and the clutch can be easily pulled apart, but use a torque wrench and go softly when rebuilding it.

You were going to make a motorcycle pallet anyway; just make it so that it bridges the beams with some leeway. According to a local supplier, 3.2m span and 140mm deep beams has a load rating of 2746kg. That's plenty. But can you fit two bikes end-to-end in that bay? My gut feel is that you need more like 2m of shelf length. Maybe three x 2m bays would be best.

What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

Webbike Japan lists these for USD79.

Not sure about a lurch but as the fibre discs wear, they become more prone to grabbing and engaging over a shorter lever span. I have replaced the plates in my 09 (with about 86000km) and that made for a lovely smooth clutch engagement. I used a TRK kit from Wemoto in Australia. The comments above are also very relevant, make sure all the other parts are clean and slippy i.e. the lever pivot, the clutch slave piston and the clutch pushrod.

Not really that hard; remove the small hoses/cables while propped up, then remove the rear pivot bolt and flip the tank right over and then undo the fuel banjo. Place lots of padding on the rear rails to protect the paint then keep the tank upside down while stored. I had my half-full tank off for a fortnight while I serviced the valves on my VTEC and never lost any fuel.

I'm thinking that wire is probably the air temperature sensor; the sensor screws into the nose fairing, projecting straight down.

Well both of those are interesting snippets Mohawk. My 5th gen certainly does like to slowly drain the battery when it sits unused, moreso than my other bikes. I had assumed that maybe my battery wasn't the best.

I asked Mr Google and got the following: 100/90-16 front tire and a 130/70-18 rear tire. That gels with my memory as well. If they make them in those sizes, the Bridgestone BT46 tyres are very good, I had a 16"/18" combo on my RC24 recently and they felt great.

I recently serviced the VTEC valves on my 90000km 2009 800. All were low, some very tight. I have noticed since installing the correct buckets that the VTEC transition is much smoother, there used to be almost a SNAP sound as they kicked in but I don't notice that now. May be all in my mind of course. I certainly feel better knowing that maintenance has been attended to.

That is good news that you have found the smoking gun Glystras. I would suggest that you refit a new thermostat as one day, even Greece will get cold, and then your bike will become much slower to warm up when you start it, and may never reach "normal" temperature when running on a highway. That may lead to higher fuel consumption as the engine stays in "must warm up" mode longer. Interestingly (?) my modern 2018 Yamaha MT-10SP has a thermostat that opens at 69C so the bike is quite happy to sit at that level on a chilly ride, but the EFI system is expecting that to be "normal".

Glad to hear that normal service has been resumed. Maybe you had some water in the fuel? There is a strainer (like a stainless steel pot scubber) on the fuel pump inlet and also a proper filter on the pressure side. Water can enter these tanks if the filler overflow drain gets clogged and you park outdoors.

The FI light will come on if the ECM detects any signals that are outside of the norm. For example if the inlet manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor doesn't see a vacuum when the engine is running, the FI light comes on and the ECM goes to "limp" mode. That specific example can happen if the vacuum hose is not connected to the MAP sensor or if the electrical connector comes loose (or more likely gets forgotten by the mechanic). You'd be best to download the manual, clear any old error codes, then ride the bike until the fault occurs. At that point you can use the fault code to identify where the issue is coming from and (hopefully) rectify that.

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

A green 3-pin plug might be for the bank angle sensor but the wire colours don't look quite right. Any 12v connector can potentially melt if it gets some corrosion as that increases resistance and that causes heat. If the BAS circuit is interrrupted that will definitely stop the engine as it will interpret that as a tip-over and shut fuel pump and injection down at least. VFR 800 Electrical Schematic After 2005 Standard Type REV 01.pdf