Terry

You will be able to re-use some of the DMr parts when you do the F4i fork swap, specifically the valve bodies and shim stacks, these can be swapped straight into the F4i forks. You will need to get some of the correct weight springs for the 43mm forks to match what Jamie uses in your 5G forks. You can use the 5G fender on F4i forks as the bottom front mount is perfect, but the F4i fork uses a top rear mount as well, which you can mate to is you rivet small brackets onto the 5G fender. Or buy an F4i fender (which I did).

There is a 954 at a local wreckers yard over here, I can enquire about the top triple if you want. Do you think a 954 axle would also work? Obviously the fork spacing is the same as the SP1/2 so presumably the axle must be the same length, and Honda tend to use common-sized parts so I'd expect the diameter is probably the same as well.

My only suggestion to find interchangeability between models is to look up the part number of the part for the model that you know will fit, and see if that part number is also listed for any other models. I use Partzilla's website for that.

Hmmmm... never heard of an NR250 V4. They did experiment with a V-twin (still 16 valves) and turboed IIRC.

My ST1100 was a bit like this, ran well at idle and below 4000rpm, but anything over that was accompanied by a lot of misfiring and surging. I traced the fault to a dirty electrical connector feeding power to the ECU, due to the corrosion it was only getting 10V and leading to weak sparks. That doesn't explain bubbles in your fuel filter, which presumably can only come from the fuel line to the tank. Is there a vacuum fuel tap in the circuit with a bad diaphragm?

I'm a big fan of the Honda Collection Hall videos. They have a wide range of other V4's as well https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPhcsmW2rf5mJA-uJluPnNtW-EPi6tRc9

That's another 5km/hr added to your top speed right there MD. Take it easy on the first test ride!

I recall reading one post years back where the water-pump drive had failed. I know on my 5G it is not major engine surgery to pull the pump off the motor, I even left the hoses connected. If you pulled an adjacent hose off with the pump connected you may be able to see the impeller and check it is spinning with the starter motor.

Maybe the sidestand switch or wire is damaged and intermittently cutting the ignition? You can take the sidestand switch off and just jumper the wires in the connector. Otherwise I'd suggest a ground block fault for the strange symptoms.

IIRC left side under the tail cowl, again it is part of the loom so covered by tape. Feel for a rectangular block about 1" x 3/4" x 3/8".

You might also check out the common earth block on the harness. I'm a 5G guy but I believe a 6G has a pale blue rectangular block under the tape cover on the harness under the front cowl. Corrosion here is not uncommon and leads to odd electrical problems unrelated to the charging circuit.

Given the battery looks OK and the stator checks out, that leaves the RR which converts the AC to 12V DC. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and check the voltage while idling and at say 5000rpm. Should be 13.5 -14.5V, but a failing RR will affect that, either higher or lower.

Some of these new H-D photos look to show styling prototypes rather than runners. The streetfighter image I saw yesterday showed a belt drive sprocket that appeared to have a section of belt wrapped fully around it, but not heading to/from the driving sprocket.

That sounds entirely plausible to me.

My own experience is that you are better off with tapered bearings a little loose rather than just a little tight. The sweet, natural feeling steering relies very heavily on the steering bearing moving in a fluid way. If you over-tighten the steering you get a jerky, stiff and really unhappy feeling bike that will refuse to smoothly bank over and hold an easy arc. DAMHIK. Personally to make small adjustments to the steering bearing nuts, I back off the top nut and the loosen the upper triple clamp, and then gently use a hammer and punch to drift the castellated locknuts around a little. Takes very little rotational movement to go from too stiff to just right to too loose. Then tighten the top nut and clamps again.