Terry

What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

Webbike Japan lists these for USD79.

Not sure about a lurch but as the fibre discs wear, they become more prone to grabbing and engaging over a shorter lever span. I have replaced the plates in my 09 (with about 86000km) and that made for a lovely smooth clutch engagement. I used a TRK kit from Wemoto in Australia. The comments above are also very relevant, make sure all the other parts are clean and slippy i.e. the lever pivot, the clutch slave piston and the clutch pushrod.

Not really that hard; remove the small hoses/cables while propped up, then remove the rear pivot bolt and flip the tank right over and then undo the fuel banjo. Place lots of padding on the rear rails to protect the paint then keep the tank upside down while stored. I had my half-full tank off for a fortnight while I serviced the valves on my VTEC and never lost any fuel.

I'm thinking that wire is probably the air temperature sensor; the sensor screws into the nose fairing, projecting straight down.

Well both of those are interesting snippets Mohawk. My 5th gen certainly does like to slowly drain the battery when it sits unused, moreso than my other bikes. I had assumed that maybe my battery wasn't the best.

I asked Mr Google and got the following: 100/90-16 front tire and a 130/70-18 rear tire. That gels with my memory as well. If they make them in those sizes, the Bridgestone BT46 tyres are very good, I had a 16"/18" combo on my RC24 recently and they felt great.

I recently serviced the VTEC valves on my 90000km 2009 800. All were low, some very tight. I have noticed since installing the correct buckets that the VTEC transition is much smoother, there used to be almost a SNAP sound as they kicked in but I don't notice that now. May be all in my mind of course. I certainly feel better knowing that maintenance has been attended to.

That is good news that you have found the smoking gun Glystras. I would suggest that you refit a new thermostat as one day, even Greece will get cold, and then your bike will become much slower to warm up when you start it, and may never reach "normal" temperature when running on a highway. That may lead to higher fuel consumption as the engine stays in "must warm up" mode longer. Interestingly (?) my modern 2018 Yamaha MT-10SP has a thermostat that opens at 69C so the bike is quite happy to sit at that level on a chilly ride, but the EFI system is expecting that to be "normal".

Glad to hear that normal service has been resumed. Maybe you had some water in the fuel? There is a strainer (like a stainless steel pot scubber) on the fuel pump inlet and also a proper filter on the pressure side. Water can enter these tanks if the filler overflow drain gets clogged and you park outdoors.

The FI light will come on if the ECM detects any signals that are outside of the norm. For example if the inlet manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor doesn't see a vacuum when the engine is running, the FI light comes on and the ECM goes to "limp" mode. That specific example can happen if the vacuum hose is not connected to the MAP sensor or if the electrical connector comes loose (or more likely gets forgotten by the mechanic). You'd be best to download the manual, clear any old error codes, then ride the bike until the fault occurs. At that point you can use the fault code to identify where the issue is coming from and (hopefully) rectify that.

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

A green 3-pin plug might be for the bank angle sensor but the wire colours don't look quite right. Any 12v connector can potentially melt if it gets some corrosion as that increases resistance and that causes heat. If the BAS circuit is interrrupted that will definitely stop the engine as it will interpret that as a tip-over and shut fuel pump and injection down at least. VFR 800 Electrical Schematic After 2005 Standard Type REV 01.pdf

Temperature senders are normally screwed into the back side of the front head but in some models the sensor is connected to the thermostat housing; certainly that is the case with the VT250F which is of a similar vintage, and the NC30 looks the same so probably applies to your NC21. The manual for the NC30 says you can jump the cable for the thermosensor to earth and switch on the ignition and the gauge should jump up to "H", but not to do this test for more than 5 seconds. The thermoswitch on the radiator is there to start/stop the fan only. Over 100C this switch closes and completes the path to earth for the fan motor. You can test the motor function by jumpering the wire to earth (bypassing the switch) and the fan should run with ignition on.

Right there in the owner's manual: