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Terry last won the day on March 8

Terry had the most liked content!

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About Terry

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    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. A reasonable resource to locate is the Honda Common Service Manual. This is a generic document and explains more about the function of things like carbs than specifics related to models. If you are not happy with how the bike runs, getting it back to stock (or confirming it is stock) is a good starting point. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xz39vanvr66jqeq/Honda Common Service Manual.pdf?dl=0
  2. Rear Brake Issue

    The low voltage may be due to the connector from the stator to the RR; if it still has the stock connector, these get wet, corrode, then the corrosion causes high resistance which leads to lower voltages but will eventually lead to heat/melting. If you've not already done so, pull that one apart and at least clean it, better still cut it our and solder/heat-shrink the wires. You might also want to check the status of the battery terminals and the battery earth connection to the frame.
  3. Rear Brake Locking After Pressing Pedal

    Delinking can be complicated or simple. The path I followed was to replace the forks with VTR1000F parts, brakes from a CBR954 (front calipers) CBR600RR (master cylinder) and CBR600F4 (rear master). All of the above are bolt-ons that use the stock wheels and brake discs, and the rear brake hoses. You can just use VTR1000F fork lowers with VFR uppers and innards, the VTR parts have the correct mounts for Honda 4-piston brakes. VTR1000F brakes are not particulalrly good in my opinion. The only thing that needs fabrication is mounting the 5G mudguard, again not a big deal.Can't use a VTR mudguard as the fork leg spacing is narrower on those. You could opt to keep the VFR front calipers and fork, but would need to source a suitably-sized master, and then connect all 6 pistons to that.The stock MC is a small diameter and I think would make for a grabby front brake, but you could try it and see; a 14mm master should be about right I think. The inner pistons in the front 3 piston calipers can be activated by drilling between the chambers within the caliper, or by using a bridging hose. At the back you can connect both standard brake hoses to the master using a double banjo, which will be freed up when you dismantle the LBS.
  4. I doubt you would have any issue with 55/60W bulbs as these are very common in other headlights so it seems likely that the standard H4 plug would be specified to be used with these. I have had past experience of a plug melting issue with a single 80/100W H4 bulb however. The headlight fuse is 20A so that will be enough for 240W total at 12V; as you switch from low to high I guess it is possible you could have both sets of filaments live instantaneously so 230W max, just below the fused rating. Like Maxswell I happily used 55/60W bulbs in my bike without any consideration for its electrical health.
  5. A Canadian VFR should have #125 front and rear, where California has 128 front/125 rear.
  6. Rear Brake Issue

    Don't quote me on this, but I'm not sure that that bolt has to come off. I seem to recall that it acts more like a locating pin and the footrest bracket just slips over. If I'm wrong, then you might like to try an impact driver on that bolt first, sometimes the hammer action shocking will break them loose easier. After that you would have to drill the head off the bolt, hopefully what is left will come out easily with pliers.
  7. Faulty Speedometer

    MBRane is correct, had this fault myself. There is a plastic cup on the end of the speedo sensor that screws into the sprocket cover. The cup sits over the sprocket nut and drives the sensor. If the hex in the cup is not lined up with the sprocket nut when the cover is installed it gets pushed back up the shaft and will no longer engage with the sprocket nut consistently. Best is to buy a new plastic cup, they are about $6 IIRC, and fit a lot of Hondas so will be easy to get. Part number 44808-MR7-013
  8. I can confirm the clutch switch on my 99 VFR800 looks just like that with the contacts exposed. Very easy to see them moving together, and also easy to clean with a fine file then contact cleaner.
  9. These are cool bikes and Yamaha deserves to sell truckloads of them. Every time I see one, I imagine it decked out in RD350LC bodywork, white with the blue/tuquoise stripe. Maybe I'm just getting old and nostalgic?
  10. Won't start in Gear

    If you have aftermarket adjustable levers, it is possible that the clutch switch is simply not getting pushed in far enough to close the circuit consistently. I thought I had a dodgy clutch switch and pulled it off on Saturday, used contact cleaner, was happy with the clicking, then reinstalled it but could not hear the click. That is, until I adjusted my clutch lever reach. Then it worked perfectly.
  11. Which VFR's are the hardest to work on?

    Couldn't agree more. The right tools makes tasks a lot easier. Case in point would be my handy, dandy mains-powered impact driver, which can worry a seized fastener loose without torn knuckles or rounded off heads. And frequent use of anti-seize and a a torque wrench for reassembly.
  12. Which VFR's are the hardest to work on?

    I just went through a fluids and shim check on my 5G last week. The fuel tank has to be removed and that is slightly harder due to the high pressure fitting for the FI system. The lower fairing has 7 bolts either side, plus 2 to separate one side of the inner cowl and a couple of plastic clips. Front head access requires the oil cooler (2 bolts) and both radiators (2 bolts) to be dropped clear but no coolant loss occurs. The rear head has no access issues at this point. I also have a VTR1000 and ST1100, none of them are particularly hard to work on until you need to get into the V of the engine. At that point the 5G loses points for the thermostat location which is unpleasant to access under the throttle bodies.
  13. Loads and loads

    I wouldn't be too hung up on a difference between 14.33 and 14.2; different voltmeters and different RR's would be my guess. The important thing is how stable the readings are. My VM is connected via a relay directly to the battery terminals so I would not expect any significant voltage drop in the circuit. I do have LED's in my headlights, indicators and taillights but not in the instruments. These are the headlight bulbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-H4-9003-PHILIPS-CSP-LED-Chips-Car-Headlight-Bulbs-25W-Hi-Lo-beam-6500K-IP65-/292471971962?hash=item4418b0207a
  14. Stromtrooper Siting

    A full stormtrooper outfit would be extremely safe, as they never hit anything...
  15. Loads and loads

    I should start out by stating that I don't have filament bulbs in my 99 5G (all LED), I do have the original wiring, and the RR is not original (part code suggests it came from a Ducati) and my voltmeter is across the battery terminals. My lights (head/tail/instruments) are always on. 1. No idea, VM is wired through a relay that comes on with ignition. I do see 12.2V with the ignition/lights on but the engine stopped. 2. 14.2V 3. 14.2V 4. 14.1V The only time I see less than 14.1V when riding is if I have heated grips on or the fan comes on. IMO 12.3 at idle with just lights on is pretty low and probably not enough to charge the battery, so not a good thing if you spend too long in traffic.

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