Terry

Check the fuel tank overflow hose is properly connected; from memory this can come adrift and drop down onto the exhaust headers near the back wheel.

Definitely should be no need to replace the master cylinder, and actually if the master piston is not leaking you probably don't need to replace any parts. Just a full disassembly and thorough clean and inspection. In the floor of the master cyinder is a small metal plate that sits into the main intake port, when you pick that out you will see the tiny relief port below. The metal plate's function is to stop a jet of brake fluid exiting the master when the cap is off during bleeding. Make sure this port is clearly ejecting fluid as the lever is pulled.

MCF is the centre code for the RC51 for all years.

Those are the symptoms of a blockage in the master cylinder I think. The small relief port gets blocked, and that prevents pressure releasing from the line. As you work the clutch and/or the fluid heats, the line pressure increases and starts holding the plates apart.

The first 750 Interceptor was big news when it was released; from a Honda fanboy persective, in one machine we were introduced to water cooling, single-shock rear end, 16" front wheel and performance like never before. I started riding in 82 and the rate of change in the 80's was breathtaking from all of the big four. I did own a VF750F for about a year and loved the performance but the tales of mechanical woe were off-putting. After I paid lots of my poor-student money to replace the camchains and tensioners, I got rid of the 750 in favour of a nice new VF400F. I could see myself owning another VF750F for nostalgia reasons one day, but it has to be the blue/white with red stripe, the gold comstars and original mufflers.

The centre code of the base (MCW) confirms it is a 6th gen seat. 77200-MCW-D00. 5th gen is MBG and 8th is MJM.

My guess is those are harmonic dampers to reduce the cases from resonating. Gotta love the smoothness that Honda worked so hard to deliver.

The only "winterization" that I do is put the thermal liners into my jacket and pants.

I use a cyanoacrylate Super Glue. Actually that is what Oxford supply with their grips. Very unforgiving stuff but seems to stick well to the cleaned bar. I use isopropyl alcohol to wipe the surface first, let it dry, fit the grips (being careful not to extrude glue over the rest of the bike, DAMHIK) and then leave it alone at least overnight. I think I have had one grip come loose, always the left, and usually as a result of wrestling with the bars when moving the bike about the Mancave. I now make a point of pushing hard on the bar ends rather than the grip under these circumstances.

I've got Oxfords on all 3 or my bikes, so I guess that is a ringing endorsement right there. AFAIK the real differnce between the models is around the lead length. I believe I fitted the sports model to my MT-10 (hey it is very sporty) and wished I had gone with a set with longer cables as it would make routing much easier with that bike's upright and wide bars. No such problems with the VFR..

I think I might need to win Lotto before I do that. I don't mind a little squish in the brake lines as long as there is decent power at the lever. With some decent pads and having fixed the fault I unknowingly was riding around, I'm happy enough. More than enough brake power for a bike without ABS!

Just back from a 200km test ride. Massive improvement once the new pads bedded in (after about 5 applications). Even the rear brake seems to be working better than ever (got to love linked brakes).

Correct; the slide pins were the culprits, not the pad pin. One set of pads looked more worn that the other which also suggests that the hydraulic force was fighting the unmoving calliper rather than just moving the pads.

I have been a little unhappy with the power of the front brakes and decided to replace the pads with my favourites, EBC HH. When I bought this bike last year I gave the pistons a decent clean (and a thorough fluid flush) which helped a lot and I thought I had done a decent job of giving the system a decent once-over. Turns out, not so much, as I missed a fairly important part of the right calliper, specifically the sliding pins. It took me about 5 minutes to replace the pads in the left calliper including cleaning the pistons, but as soon as I had the right calliper off, it was obvious that the main slide pin was corroded solidly in the alloy hanger. After trying various methods to free it while still plumbed in, I had to admit defeat and break the banjo fittings loose and pull the calliper right off the bike. Some strategically aimed whacks with a drift got the offending parts apart, and the both pins were dry and crusty and a bit corroded. I cleaned them up, cleaned all the rubbery bits, slathered on some silicone grease and then went through the process of reassembly and bleeding. Should have taken less than 30 minutes but ended up being a good couple of hours. And at the end of all that I now wonder whether I really needed new pads or if the lacklustre power was mainly due to the lack of calliper movement. Check your calliper slide pins people!