Terry

The stock fork position is 41mm from the top of the triple to the end of the fork tube according to the manual.

11 is the bushing and usually slips in without a fight, followed by 10 which is the washer then 21 is the seal which does need to be driven home until you can fit the circlip 17 into its groove. However...none of that affects the extended fork length. I assume you have got the fork cap 19 screwed on tight? Otherwise the length of the fork is totally dependent on the length of the stanchion tube 9 with its end pulling up against the underside of the top-out spring 15. Springs and spacers don't affect this either unless there was no preload as a result. It is possible for the bottom-

The length of the extended fork is detemined by the engagement of the end of the fork stanchion against the top-out spring on the damper tube. The damper tube position is fixed as it is pulled into the bottom of the leg by the damper bolt, and as V4 says above, the oil-lock piece is sandwiched in there so if it was missing then one damper will sit a few mm lower and the overall assembly will be shorter by the same amount. I would certainly expect the forks to be near enough to exactly the same length normally.

They probably just recalibrated the odometer so it reads 25% high....

The VTR and 5G definitely use the same bearings, but the steering stem length could be different, as could the yoke offset. I put 6G yokes and CBR600F4 forks onto my 5G as I was confident the frame/geometry was largely unchanged between the 5 and 6G, and the only issue I had was getting the steering lock pin to align with the socket in the frame, which required the 5G lock mechanism to be shimmed down off the 6G triple.

A bigger diameter MC should give you a more wooden brake as there is less hydraulic advantage over the calliper pistons; not a bad thing for a rear brake in my view.

The axle and spacers do not need to change. VTR cartridges/fork caps are much the same as VFR certainly from a dimension, threadsize etc perspective, and the damping parts are just the same (with an added adjustable rebound bleed) so just as poor, and you ought to at least get a GoldValve for compression. VFR springs would be OK but you may need to adjust the spacer length, some PVC pipe is perfect for this. Or buy some decent springs from Somic, Racetech etc that are specific to your weight. Use of CBR calipers requires removal of a little of the lower mounting bracket on the fork,

The heat up issue is not to do with the size of the cooler but with the airflow (or a lack of it). Unless you have air flowing through a cooler/radiator then the heat will just build up in the fluid no matter how big the item is.

A similar item is standard fitment on my ST1300 and clips onto the undertray beneath the seat.

My 01 FSC600 Silver Wing scooter has a left hand linked brake (one piston up front, two on the rear wheel), the right hand brake drives the other two front caliper pistons. Once you aclimatise, it's a really controllable setup, and I think it would make perfect sense on the DCT bike. As stated above the master size needs to be appropriate to the leverage (hand or foot) and the caliper piston area. My FSC uses a 12.7mm master and that drives two 27mm and one 22.65mm piston, so the ratio of areas (slave:master) is 12.22, which seems to be pretty typical for a sliding piston caliper activated by

I bought a 1990 Honda ST1100 that had been standing in an open shed for 10 years. The carbs and fuel system were predictably crappy, but the thing that took me longest to hunt down was a low voltage reaching the ECU which caused a misfire over 4k rpm. Turned out to be corrosion in the red connector that feeds power to/from the handlebars. Personally I think unplugging, cleaning, greasing and re-plugging these connectors is good periodic maintenance.

There was a guy called Buster Saunders racing in production classes in Australasia in the 80's who was much the same size. Did not hold him back and he was a race winner. Hats off to these guys.

I always take the fender and both calipers off whenever I remove the wheel. Just makes the process of re-fitting so much easier.

Easy enough to jack up the 800 on the headers, but I do wonder about the load that places on the exhaust gaskets as one of mine developed a leak. Personally I love the head lift stands (like the one in my VTR photo), very easy to use and great for front end work UNLESS you need to work on the steering head. https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFH/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front-head-lift-stand

My crude thermostat test is to start the bike from cold and keep a hand on the right radiator. If it heats slowly from the get-go, it is stuck open, and you are up for a few hours of open-bike surgery to lift out the throttle bodies for access to the housing. I'd replace some of the hoses if you get that far in, you won't want to go back in a hurry, and the thermostat removal may cause some subsequent leaks (mine did). Normal operation is for the thermostat to stay shut until the coolant in the block exceeds around 80C (so the radiator stays cold), then it opens and dumps hot coola