Terry

Hope you got an A+, I really like those. Good choice on the logo/font.

Duc, did you also notice in that little blue valve that there is another of those teeny tiny compensation ports built in? Fluid pressure from the foot brake pushes the ball valve open to fill the SMC but any pressure coming back from the piston has to pass through both the compensation port in the metal of the SMC and the port in the plastic cartridge. I'd suggest you had some crud caught in there.

As I typically get 10000km from a back tyre, that works out to riding just 3000km per year! I must have a much more understanding wife.

Where is the Koso gauge picking up the temperature? From the engine block as per the original or from the radiator? I would place more faith in a mechanical device like a thermostat functioning correctly than some digital device (but then I am getting older...). How about checking the engine block temperature with an IR gun?

The springs are typically 35mm OD so you need tubing that is close to that; make sure you use the washer between the spring and the spacer otherwise the spring will chew up the spacer. The fork tubes are 41mm OD and (my guess) about 1 mm wall thickness so they would be close to 39mm ID. At 35mm the spacer would fit with 2mm clearance all round.

I think is is time we introduce you to, "The Drill"... https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/84719-the-drill/

I think it can matter which bearing is driven home first, in most cases (but not all) it will be the right bearing, as that then fixes the wheel position relative to the right fork leg when the axle pulls the bearing into contact with the spacer and the leg. That assumes the left bearing position can be a little variable to accommodate the distance collar having a little movement. To get the old bearings out you can use a drift (or in my case, a long screw driver) and tap against the back side of the opposite bearing; you need to scoot the distance collar off to the side a little to do that. This is pretty tough on the old bearing (as you are pushing hard on the inner race and probably damaging that and the balls) hence you never re-use them.

EBC HH pads are normally a bit hissy compared to OEM pads especially under hard braking when they are hot, but I do like the brake feel.

Based on the wiring diagram, at the main fuse the red and green/red share a common terminal at the main fuse so I'd go looking in there. I agree that you should be seeing 12v at the green red terminal at the ECU.

The socket head bolts are not drain bolts, they hold the end of the damper cartridge in place. Oil flow will not be that good as the damper and oil lock piece fill the end of the fork leg. If you want to drain the oil you need to remove the forks. You don't need to take the socket head bolt out during a fork oil change unless you want to remove the damper and/or replace the seals and bushings, and then you will want a new copper sealing washer when you do the reassembly.

Greg you are exactly right in the cause of this sound. I think you'll find the clutch switch is a bit dirty and making intermittent contact so the solenoid is buzzing. Some contact cleaner in the switch should help, or adjust the clutch lever position a bit. A new clutch switch is also a cheap thing to replace.

And the manual instructs to dismount the left caliper and SMC bracket and tilt it up so you can displace any air out of the SMC. If you don't do that there is a good chance air will just sit in the bottom of the SMC.

I presume the lucky coin prevents attacks by the skid demon...

Never fear; I polished the coin and remounted it on the side of the clutch fluid reservoir.

I found a Japanese coin, two spare tank bolts and lots of gravel in the V of my VTR, nestled in the coolant hoses. Unless you dropped the bolt "in" the airbox, it won't cause much harm.