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Terry last won the day on March 8

Terry had the most liked content!

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About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. Rear Brake Issue

    Don't quote me on this, but I'm not sure that that bolt has to come off. I seem to recall that it acts more like a locating pin and the footrest bracket just slips over. If I'm wrong, then you might like to try an impact driver on that bolt first, sometimes the hammer action shocking will break them loose easier. After that you would have to drill the head off the bolt, hopefully what is left will come out easily with pliers.
  2. Faulty Speedometer

    MBRane is correct, had this fault myself. There is a plastic cup on the end of the speedo sensor that screws into the sprocket cover. The cup sits over the sprocket nut and drives the sensor. If the hex in the cup is not lined up with the sprocket nut when the cover is installed it gets pushed back up the shaft and will no longer engage with the sprocket nut consistently. Best is to buy a new plastic cup, they are about $6 IIRC, and fit a lot of Hondas so will be easy to get. Part number 44808-MR7-013
  3. I can confirm the clutch switch on my 99 VFR800 looks just like that with the contacts exposed. Very easy to see them moving together, and also easy to clean with a fine file then contact cleaner.
  4. These are cool bikes and Yamaha deserves to sell truckloads of them. Every time I see one, I imagine it decked out in RD350LC bodywork, white with the blue/tuquoise stripe. Maybe I'm just getting old and nostalgic?
  5. Won't start in Gear

    If you have aftermarket adjustable levers, it is possible that the clutch switch is simply not getting pushed in far enough to close the circuit consistently. I thought I had a dodgy clutch switch and pulled it off on Saturday, used contact cleaner, was happy with the clicking, then reinstalled it but could not hear the click. That is, until I adjusted my clutch lever reach. Then it worked perfectly.
  6. Which VFR's are the hardest to work on?

    Couldn't agree more. The right tools makes tasks a lot easier. Case in point would be my handy, dandy mains-powered impact driver, which can worry a seized fastener loose without torn knuckles or rounded off heads. And frequent use of anti-seize and a a torque wrench for reassembly.
  7. Which VFR's are the hardest to work on?

    I just went through a fluids and shim check on my 5G last week. The fuel tank has to be removed and that is slightly harder due to the high pressure fitting for the FI system. The lower fairing has 7 bolts either side, plus 2 to separate one side of the inner cowl and a couple of plastic clips. Front head access requires the oil cooler (2 bolts) and both radiators (2 bolts) to be dropped clear but no coolant loss occurs. The rear head has no access issues at this point. I also have a VTR1000 and ST1100, none of them are particularly hard to work on until you need to get into the V of the engine. At that point the 5G loses points for the thermostat location which is unpleasant to access under the throttle bodies.
  8. Loads and loads

    I wouldn't be too hung up on a difference between 14.33 and 14.2; different voltmeters and different RR's would be my guess. The important thing is how stable the readings are. My VM is connected via a relay directly to the battery terminals so I would not expect any significant voltage drop in the circuit. I do have LED's in my headlights, indicators and taillights but not in the instruments. These are the headlight bulbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-H4-9003-PHILIPS-CSP-LED-Chips-Car-Headlight-Bulbs-25W-Hi-Lo-beam-6500K-IP65-/292471971962?hash=item4418b0207a
  9. Stromtrooper Siting

    A full stormtrooper outfit would be extremely safe, as they never hit anything...
  10. Loads and loads

    I should start out by stating that I don't have filament bulbs in my 99 5G (all LED), I do have the original wiring, and the RR is not original (part code suggests it came from a Ducati) and my voltmeter is across the battery terminals. My lights (head/tail/instruments) are always on. 1. No idea, VM is wired through a relay that comes on with ignition. I do see 12.2V with the ignition/lights on but the engine stopped. 2. 14.2V 3. 14.2V 4. 14.1V The only time I see less than 14.1V when riding is if I have heated grips on or the fan comes on. IMO 12.3 at idle with just lights on is pretty low and probably not enough to charge the battery, so not a good thing if you spend too long in traffic.
  11. gen 5 vs get 6 brakes

    The 5G also uses a 12.7mm master compared to the 6G with 14mm, and that will have an impact on how far the lever/master piston travels to move the caliper pistons. All else being equal (and this is the case with the different calipers) a larger master will give a firmer lever but less brake pad squeezing force. Or conversely the smaller master (e.g.5G) wiill have more lever travel/softer feel but provide more squeeze at the pads. I went the other way with my ST1100; it had a 14mm master and had wooden-feeling, feeble brakes, I swapped that for a 12.7mm master and gained a lot more power and feel, but a squishier feel (fixed with braided lines).
  12. All this talk of plug chops is great, but the smallest, easiest to block jets are the low speed jets which also feed fuel to the pilot screws. There's not much point playing with the screws unless the jets are clean.
  13. It is not impossible that your bike battery is dead with an internal short that is dragging quite a bit of current, stopping enough reaching the starter/plugs. You could try disconnecting the negative from your battery and just connect that to the jumper. Certainly have had personal experience with my daughter's car, in that case the solenoid would just click rapidly and the jump cables heated up.
  14. Rear Brake Issue

    Well spotted JZH! You are missing the pin that connects the brake lever to the end of the pushrod, circled. I can imagine that would feel a bit odd. I'd throw any suitable bolt and locknut on there immediately until the correct part can be purchased. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/46503-MAL-000?ref=9be3a9b702f825f60ae8c4d2f0f4d852856cd855
  15. Rear Brake Issue

    I think your options would be to pull the rearset off and get a local welder to fix it (it is not a strength critical area), find a used one on eBay or buy new (but Partzilla shows the piece no longer available ). I doubt that adhesive would last particularly well. Hopefully when you ask will that make the brake work again, you mean just the brake light, not the hydraulics!

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