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Terry

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Everything posted by Terry

  1. The engine has to be above a certain rpm speed to generate enough oil pressure to shut off the switch/oil light. Grum is likely correct that what you are seeing is an engine that is stalling when hot, and the oil light simply comes on as it is dying. The VFR does not have an automatic shutdown; it requires a switch e.g. ignition, killswitch, sidestand switch to interrupt the ignition, or the tip-over switch which shuts off the fuel pump. In the case of low oil pressure, the engine will happily continue to self-destruct with just the warning light illuminated, same applies to excessive temperatures. The fault could be as simple as no fuel reaching the carbs due to a failing fuel pump. When the engine dies, does it feel the same as running out of fuel i.e. gradual loss of power? An electrical fault is likely to be something more sudden. You could also have a vacuum forming in the fuel tank stopping fuel flow, due to a blocked tank vent. If so, if you open the fuel cap when your engine stalls, you might hear a whoosh as air is sucked in. Being in CA, your bike will also have the emmissions gear like a charcoal cannister which might be clogged.
  2. The only misalignment that I have seen is when the cam saddles are loose, the spring that keeps the split gears under tension tends to move the cam slightly out of alignment. When the saddles are tightened, the gears and cam are pushed into the normal position.
  3. As an owner of a couple of Honda's with linked brakes, I have not adhered to the "replace all pads together" advice. My ST1300 eats rear pads at a much higher rate than the fronts. so I just manage the pads on an as-needed basis. I currently also have mismatched brands of pads too, but so far nothing has exploded and any ditch excursions have been entirely of my own making. Next thing you'll be telling me that I need to have matching brands of tyres front to rear!
  4. Cool bikes! I'm also partial to an ST, I had a 1990 1100 for 40,000km and now have a well-used 2004 1300 to go with my yellow VFR.
  5. The VFR does run sluggishly below 3k anyway. I'd suggest clearing the fault register and seeing if the fault comes back.
  6. Interesting; that is also what I have been doing purely out of logic, not out of any wisdom. I did the clearances on my 4V Vespa 300 recently and just rotated the crank until the lobes pointed away from the rockers before I checked the valves.
  7. My favourite Honda colour! Love it. Welcome aboard. If you are new to the VFR and planning on a long excursion, I would suggest some preventative maintenance on the brakes as the back brake in particular is unforgiving if it is ignored. Worst case scenario is dirty fluid blocks up some ports and stops pressure releasing from the brake, and also not uncommon for the secondary master cylinder on the left fork leg to seize (and also lock the back wheel up). It's a great brake system when it is well cared-for.
  8. +1 on replacing the caliper seals. I recently replaced the caliper seals on the rear brake of my ST1300 (2004, 130k km) and that has made a good difference to the amount of drag I was getting between pads and disk. The seals that I pulled out looks OK to the eye with no obvious damage. I think in some cases the issue is gunk building up in the seal groove in the caliper body, that creates extra friction on the seal.
  9. I just stumbled across this website, which is the work of technical guru Mike Nixon, who has worked for both Honda and Kawasaki in senior techical roles in the US. There is some fascinating technical content on the early generation V4s that I have not seen before, and there also looks to be a wealth of technical guidance on all sorts of topics. https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/v4_page.html
  10. I would suggest the most likely cause would be a little air in the clutch line or the clutch slave getting a bit sticky. A flush would be the first step but actually pulling the slave off the bike and disassembling and cleaning fully is not a big job as long as you are patient when you refill and bleed the system. The clutch pushrod can get a bit stcky as well, and can be fully extracted for a clean and polish and a bit of grease.
  11. I have blown the horn, turn signal, brake light fuse (C) on my 800 when I had the front brake master turned too far on the bars and the brake light switch contacts shorted onto the bar. But that would not take out fuse G. Given the short happens on a bump it sounds likely to be a chafed wire earthing to the frame, which won't be fun to find. Or just stayy off the bumpy bits when you are riding.
  12. The pad spring orientation in the manual is correct. The longer spring area will allow the pad next to the pistons to slide, whereas the pad against the fixed backstop never moves and needs a much smaller spring area. Probably not immediately fatal but the calliper side piston can slip off the spring easily.
  13. The fan switch should start the fan around 102C and then should shut off at around 98. This is purely controlled by the temperature switch plugged into one of the radiators. Unless the radiator was partly empty or properly clogged, the system should operate correctly. Maybe you have a faulty switch? The dash temperature reading is from a different sensor (the ECT sensor) on the engine block. The ECT and fan switch are quite independent. With good steady airflow, riding the temp should sit around 78-82 which is the thermostat opening point. It will rise fairly quickly when you are creeping in traffic or stopped and there is limited air flowing through the radiator. After airflow, the thermostat has the biggest influence on running temps. It should stay closed as the engine heats from cold which means the coolant stays in the engine block and the radiator stays cold. When the engine is heated to around 78 the thermostat starts to open and the heated coolant reaches the radiators so they will quickly get too hot to touch. The easiest thermostat check is just to monitor the radiator as the engine warms up from cold. If the radiator stays cold until around 78 then quickly gets hot, the thermostat is good. If the radiator slowly heats as the engine warms up, then the thermostat is probably stuck part open and needs to be replaced.
  14. You can install a new speedometer face https://www.ebay.com/itm/263747662416?itmmeta=01HZ0E2CXZTDZA42H0FCS2DRS5&hash=item3d6895f250:g:rpAAAOSwZQRYaZz6
  15. I was hoping it was for "Prepare Antipersonel TASER". That'd be more useful.
  16. You can still buy the a rebuild kit that includes the SMC piston if you needed that. I'd suggest a full disassembly but don't change the length of the pushrod that connects the piston to the fork leg. There is a blue plastic screen in the SMC that can be gently removed and disassembled, has a one-way ball valve and a tiny compensation port, both need to be properly clean. Your problem could be a seized piston (that should be obvious when you remove it) of blockages in the tiny ports.
  17. Seems like they are both right. This is from the owner's manual:
  18. This is from the service manual...the manual also say to keep the bike vertical while doing this. As long as you have refitted the drain bung (and don't be shy we've all been there) then just keep pouring liquid in until it comes up the filler neck, and don't be surprised when the level drops as air is purged when you blip the throttle. You also need to separately fill the reservoir. Once the cap is on, if there is air left in the system it should make its way to the reservoir, and be replaced from the reservoir as the system cools, so check the reservoir after the first decent heat cycle.
  19. The most likely culprit for a locked back brake is the secondary master cylinder on the left fork leg. This moves when you apply the front brake and applies pressure to the centre piston on the back brake. If the SMC seizes or gets blocked, it applies pressure but then can't release.
  20. Certainly sounds like you set the cams correctly. But you can check by physically rotating the crank and observing the cams. If you start with #1 (left rear) with the intake cam bearing on the valve, then rotate the engine 450 degrees, #2 (front left) should now be pressing on the intake valve. If the cam timing is correct then maybe you have a VTEC problem? The VTEC actuation is around the 6800rpm mark.
  21. Grum might be onto something here. I know with the VTR1000F engine, it was possible to set the cams in the front and rear heads correctly with respect to the crank/marks, but out of time between the front and rear heads. This meant that instead of the rear cylinder firing 270 degrees after the front, the rear missed another 360 rotation and so fired at 630 degrees. In that engine it started and ran fine but was reluctant to rev. The manual has some very specific instructions about the sequence of cam reinstallation so that this is accounted for. I'm not saying this is the issue for you but it won't be hard to check.
  22. I think Grum speaks the truth (as usual). I can find no mention of the BAS in the wiring diagram for the RC36.
  23. I am having some grief with the neutral switch on my ST1300 at present. The neutral switch completes the ground path so that the starter solenoid will be energised when you press the starter button, and you get the neutral light In neutral, you should have continuity to ground. The light green wire from the neutral switch terminates at the centre leg of the clutch diode; I confess I'm not sure where that lives on the VFR, on my ST it is in the fusebox and looks like a slightly oversized black fuse with 3 terminals. If you can put a jumper from ground to the centre post of the diode you will be simulating the neutral switch working. I have attached a hi-res wiring diagram which shows the 6P connector you are referring to (although 6 wires go in and only 5 come out). The other wires are blue/red to oil pressure switch, and the remaining three (Y/Bu, G/O and G/Bu) go to the engine coolant sensor on the back of the front head. The missing 6th wire (G/Bl) is a common earth. VFR hi res.pdf
  24. I think the 2011 that was sold here was about the best 6th gen colours (aside from the US Anniversary model): Red body, black frame and forks, gold wheels.
  25. The 4 vacuum tubes do indeed just terminate on blank stubs at the side of the airbox.
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