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Terry

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Everything posted by Terry

  1. I haven't tried posting but like you, I'm a frequent visitor and the page seems to have died with no new content since 19 Nov.
  2. I had my last VFR start to reset the clock when I started it hot. It just needed a new battery. For less than $100 it is a cheap thing to swap out if you've not already done so. Cleaning the fuses and diodes is a sound strategy too. Thanks to Grum's help, I figured out that my occasional hot-start problem on my ST1300 was a dirty diode connection. Who'd a thunk that?
  3. Mr Google found me a Patent application for a novel form of application equipment for the moly coating, but had the following words: "Over time, during use of the fuel system, a carbon-based sludge seal will form between the plate member and the wall member to close the annular gap. This seal will be formed by the fuel system component byproducts. If this seal is allowed to form during the use of the fuel system, the amount of air introduced, and thus, the operating conditions of the fuel system, will have varied overtime. Accordingly, it is desirable, and has been industry practice, to form a seal in the throttle body assembly to cover the annular gap during production of the throttle body assemblies to provide a throttle body assembly which can have continuous and stable use. Typical sealant compositions comprise a Molybdenum disulfide/MEK solution, such as Molydag® from Acheson, which is further diluted with an additional 10-20 weight percent of MEK."
  4. The threaded rod just moves the resting position of the pedal. I found the pedal sat much too high for comfort with the original length of the CBR600F4 master, even with the clevis adjusted to the minimum where the end of the rod starts bottoming out and can go no further. Once I shortened it, it was fine.
  5. I agree with the Captain. There are some critical dimensions between the brake pushrod (which locates the piston) and the master housing and its ports, and assuming the ports are clean then your lock up may be due to fluid being unable to escape after applying the brake. I used an unopened CBR600F4i rear master when I delinked my last VFR and did as Mike suggests and cut some length off the threaded rod to get the VFR pedal in the right location for my big feet.
  6. While I am all for experimentation with suspension, I don't believe it is possible for us mere mortals to open a shock and change oil or shims. Showa shocks like the Blackbird or VFR have a nitrogen charge above a floating piston at the blind end of the shock body. To open the shock you will need to fight against that gas pressure to get the circlip out, followed by an "exciting" pressure release. How Showa build these shocks in the first place is a mystery to me, but as there are no shortage of sealed gas shocks in the world it must be simple with the right machinery. To do the job right, you need to breach the blind end of the body and release the pressure in a more controlled manner, then fit a valve there so you can re-pressurise after rebuilding the shock. YMMV and all that.
  7. For any given capacity a twin should be cheaper and lighter than an i-4, and put out more torque but less hp. On the road those all sound like attributes that I would value. Lest we forget, the first VF750F had a power output of 86 hp, 46 ft-lb torque and a wet weight around 250kg. The new Hornet has a claimed 90.6 hp 55 ft-lb torque and 190 kg wet weight. I don't recall my old VF750F as being in any way slow. Personally I like the new Hornet styling, and the white on red colour scheme reminds me a lot of a VT250F that I lusted over as a young rider.
  8. I happily use AllBalls tapered rollers in all of my bikes that needed new bearings. For fork seals I would prefer SKF or stock, but have also had good results with Tourmaster. The only seals which have given me grief were Pyramid Parts.
  9. Have you tried synching the starter valves or using a vacuum gauge set? From your finger test it certainly sounds like #4 is getting weak vacuum which probably means an air leak, either the throttle boot (cracked? loose? not seated?), or one of the rubber vacuum hoses, or possibly the starter valve just needs adjusting (closing down a bit). Could also be some crud/corrosion on the throttle butterfly plate causing it not to seal. On the FI bikes, the butterflies should be fully closed at idle, all air for idle running passes through the starter valves, and these are always open (otherwise you'd have no idle) and they get pulled further open by the wax unit when cold. When hot, the wax unit should be letting the starter valves rest on the idle screw.
  10. That's awesome. I have a Sargent seat that is two piece and the area below the cowl is vacant. I'm just not sure I can bear to cut into pristine plastic...
  11. I think you should consider the seals as damaged in any case so I wouldn't worry about damaging them with penetrating oil. Hydraulic pressure would be the safest way to eject the piston, I've read of folks using a grease gun to do this but have never had to resort to that myself. Have you tried tapping the piston in further to break any corrosion? You might need to think about getting a replacement SMC, as it is possible the bore is now damaged as well.
  12. Beat me to it Dude; I did the same thing on the back of my last VFR800 and had to pump the lever to get the brake working. The spring clip kept pushing the pad/piston back out. Being a cheap bastard, once I get fresh clean fluid flowing during a bleed, I start to catch the bled fluid and re-use it for bleeding. I've also had success firming up a lever by tieing the lever back to the bar (or hanging a full can of paint on the pedal) and leaving it like that overnight. I don't understand the physics but this can make a slightly mushy feel go solid. I've also got a cheap vacuum brake bleeder; I've had good results winding the vacuum up and then pumping the brake to quickly blast fluid through.
  13. Put some penetrating oil on the clevis and let it sit overnight. I've done this a couple of times and mine weren't that tight. Supposedly you can pull the boot back far enough without removing the clevis to get at the circlip, but it didn't work for me. I fired some brake cleaner through the tiny port in the check valve and made sure I could see a clear jet flowing through.
  14. The circled spot is where the compensation port in the check valve lives. The check valve can be pulled right out, and then disassembled completely/carefully as it just snaps together. Don't lose the little ball and spring from the check valve! This photo is from my ST1300 but it has a very similar linked brake system.
  15. Until you pull the SMC fully apart, the compensation ports are currently like Schrodinger's cat, being both blocked and unblocked.
  16. If you push the boot down you will see a 10mm lock nut that holds the clevis in place. I put a spanner on that to hold it and then used a large adjustable wrench to rotate the clevis, which should unscrew off the threaded end of the pushrod. There are some that will tell you the length of the clevis/piston assembly is critical, so it would pay to measure the distance from the clevis to the SMC housing before you start so you can put it back to the same place. (Personally given the movement of the SMC/ piston, I don't believe it is quite that critical) After that you can pull the rubber boot out, and that will expose the circlip holding the piston. If the centre piston is not retracting then you most likely have a blockage in the tiny compensating port in either the SMC body or in the plastic check valve which you have cleaned. Hopefully you spotted the tiny hole in that one. The compensating port(s) is the only way for the line to depressurise and allow the piston to retract. Moving the SMC should activate the rear piston; if not you may have some air in the system. Pushing the foot pedal will also pressurise the back centre piston (pressure goes around the tapered seal of the SMC piston) and the two outers pistons. When I worked on my brakes it took me a few tries to properly bleed the SMC and PCV. My wife helped me to press the brake pedal to pressurise the SMC, then press the SMC and release the PCV bleed, close the bleed, then press the pedal to push the SMC piston back out. And repeat. You do need to have the SMC angled so air rises to the blind end.
  17. My 86 starter made some dreadful sounds while I was sorting out carburetion issues. There was a lot of work for the starter motor, and I think this was draining the battery and occasionally just not spinning smoothly to keep the clutch engaged. With a decently running engine (starting easily) I never heard the same noises, but decided to replace the rollers and springs in any case. The rollers looked OK but the springs were quite a bit shorter than the replacements. This was with 105,000km. Fortunately the clutch body itself had no cracks and looked perfect.
  18. The starter clutch has rollers that are pressed onto a shaft by springs, that locks the components together. When the rpm rises the centrifugal force overcomes the springs and the rollers retract and release the shaft. The rollers and or springs do wear, but they are easy enough to replace once you have the clutch cover removed. The starter clutch on my 86 is mounted on the crank end, the three bolts allow the halves to split so the rollers etc can be replaced. I used a kit from Wemoto such as the one in the link. http://www.wemoto.com.au/bikes/honda/vfr_750_fl__rc36/90/picture/starter_clutch_repair_kit/
  19. I overtightened the taper rollers that I fitted to my RF900 many years back. The first test-ride was really "interesting" as all the self-steering micro-movements were damped out; if I flicked the bike into a bend just right it was amazing, but if there were any corrections needed it was impossible to make a smooth bend. When I realised my error, it was an easy fix to back off the bearing tension until the drag was gone, and normal service was resumed.
  20. I still have most of a pot of Europa LMOS grease. According to Wiki, the company was bought out and rebranded by BP in 1989... I do like red rubber grease, just the thing for helping fork seals into their designated locations.
  21. Not only is the manual old, but I am also old too. I've never even heard of ceramic grease. My 2017 Yamaha MT-10SP service manual also specifies silicone grease for brake slide pins.
  22. There's a chapter at the back of the manual called Technical Features. This is a great primer to read as you move from a previus generation to the 5th as it covers off how the new/different bits are meant to work. IIRC, the 2000 onward model received significant emmissions related changes in the exhaust and FI; they added a cat and the O2 sensors, and I believe the headers became SS instead of mild steel, possibly with a smaller diameter. The FI also "gained" an auto fast idle system in place of the bar mounted lever. I know which I'd rather have...
  23. Download the service manual, its all in there. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/171-98-01-honda-vfr-service-manual-optimized-bookmarked/
  24. I inject silicone grease using a syringe. Silcone grease is specified in the manual.
  25. The same linked brakes are on quite a few Hondas, I also own a ST1300 with a similar system (+ABS). The ST fraternity know these brakes inside out and due to the tendency to do very high mileage in inclement weather which means the incidence of SMC seizures gets attention. There's nothing to be worried about but on a new-to-you bike, you should give them a thorough inspection. In particular with the bike on the centrestand, push forward on the left calliper and check the rear wheel brakes come on, and then release nicely when you let go. I carefully syringed and mopped out my master cylinder reservoirs, refilled with clean fluid and then bled many times to ensure clean fresh fluid throughout. There is a very specific bleeding sequence to follow, its not hard but it needs to be done correctly for the best result. I also cleaned around the calliper pistons to make sure they were all freely moving. My brakes went from "hmmmm" to "whoa!" as a result. If you need any guidance, just ask.
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