Jump to content


Member Contributer
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Terry

  1. Terry

    Music anyone?

    I keep my cellphone on a Quadlock mount on my ST1300 and MT-10, mainly just as a place to secure and charge it. I don't look at or touch it when riding (and my gloves won't let me anyway), although it is useful as a GPS speedo. Turn by turn navigation instructions from Google maps were brilliant through the headset as well.
  2. Terry

    Music anyone?

    I've tried earbud type systems before but usually struggle to keep them in my ears as my helmet goes on. Is there anything special about the Motikom?
  3. Terry

    Music anyone?

    I have a cheap and cheerful camera/bluetooth/speaker/microphone setup that I bought from Aliexpress, a Maxto M3. This has been in constant use on every ride for the past few years and has been faultless as a camera, phone and music system, paired with my iPhone. I wear custom moulded earplugs (for the wind noise) and have the volume set to max, and that all works out very nicely. Battery life is longer than I can ride in a day, and the stick-on mount has been great and easy to use on my GT-Air lid. 1080 video quality is OK too. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Bluetooth-M3-Communication-Entertainment/dp/B085G766T5 https://youtu.be/GfD1a2TYBwU
  4. Have I not explained that for every rack sold, a Hobbit gets a free meal?
  5. Dold Industries list the Ventura rack for the 2014 VFR800: https://dold.co.nz/collections/honda/products/honda-vfr-800fe-14-18
  6. Sounds like a pretty sensible life goal to me. I see you left out the 2nd gen, I recently bought and lightly restored one of these but fell out of love with it quite quickly as while very pretty, it just felt kind of old. I started riding in the era of tube frames, crossply tyres and single piston callipers, things did get much better with the advent of alloy frames, decent forks, 17" wheels, and the 3rd gen onwards would fulfill my criteria for "modern (ish)". Oddly enough I've never ridden either the 3rd or 4th gen, but have owned a VF750F, multiple VFR700/750 RC24s, two 5th gens, and I have ridden the 6th and 8th. I still think a gently upgraded 5th gen is the sweet spot.
  7. My last 5G was a red 99, and I really wanted to find another just like it. However, at the time I was shopping, there were no decent red ones, only this one in yellow. I wasn't sure that I wanted a yellow VFR, but I am now absolutely smitten and think it might be the best colour ever. Actually called Pearl Shine Yellow, it has a very fine pearl mixed into the yellow, and looks awesome in the sunshine. On the downside, it sure does show up any bugs that are magnetically attracted...
  8. The radial callipers on my MT-10 are like that; the calliper has a recess that fits over a boss on the fork leg, and the bolts just hold the two together.
  9. The parts diagram for the 6th gen list those as "bolt, socket, 8 x 35mm", 4 required. Plus a plain 8mm washer. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2004/vfr800a-ac-interceptor-abs/rear-cowl
  10. Not arguing there, but the torque on the brake bolts on all my axially mounted callipers is only 31 N-m. Which is not much more than snug. The service manual does state that the bolt is ALOC type which means it is factory supplied with threadlocker. My view is that Honda rightly consider this bolt to be critical and hence the threadlocker, and that if the bolt is re-used the threadlocker can't be relied upon. I don't use threadlock here, but do religiously use a torque wrench. I've never seen any sign of stretch on the bolts but will keep an eye out.
  11. I have never replaced calliper bolts either. My logic is they are steel bolts @ low torque where the alloy that it threads into is the limiting factor.
  12. Can't comment on the 8th gen but I do have experience with radial callipers and ABS sensor on my MT-10. I suspect you'll run less risk of chipping the wheel rim if you remove both callipers. Just do it, and clean and lube the pistons while you have them off. As for the wheel speed sensor, these can be damaged if you are a little clumsy removing the wheel, and the clearance to to the pulser ring is usually very small, so for the sake of another couple of bolts....
  13. Just goes to show that I don't read posts carefully before commenting. I agree that you need the higher torque for the oil hose bolt below the nipple.
  14. Yeah, what Bmart says, it just needs to be snugged up so it doesn't weep. 34N-m is huge, only for the 10mm thread brake hose joint bolts at the callipers...don't do it! The service manual says 6 N-m for bleed nipples, which is bugger-all.
  15. My vote is pearl white with a grey seat. I still believe the 3rd gen to be the best looking VFR of all time, something about the lines and proportions speaks to me. Great find!
  16. AFAIK the reasons forks seals leak are: 1. Sinple wear and tear, but you'd expect 10's of thousands of km from a set 2. Rock damage to the stanchions, they cause craters with raised edges that cut seals, and cut new seals quickly if not addressed 3. Time sitting still; strangely enough, for bikes that don't get used enough the seals maybe dry out and stop sealing. Hasn't happened to me yet... 4. A piece of grit getting stuck and holding a seal open; these can be dislodged sometimes with a really fine feeler gauge inserted between the stanchion and seal But you need to find out why the seal is leaking first.
  17. Probably Jamie Daugherty, Daugherty Motorsports. http://daughertymotorsports.com/
  18. The fuel gauge sender is a resistance unit, more resistance = lower reading. If it flashes empty when full then you may have a dirty connector or broken wire causing the resistance to jump. I doubt the float arm would stick down when full but I suppose it's possible. I'd start by unplugging/plugging the blue connector wire under the tank. When empty you can also reach into the tank with a hook and move the sender arm to full and check the display changes as it should.
  19. Interesting comment Mike; I mistakenly purchased some 6th gen intake rubbers from Partzilla (had a brain fart, actually wanted them for my 86 VFR!) and when I was working on my new 5th gen, I checked and the parts share identical appearance and dimensions but the p/nos are different. I have found that the Showa 20mm damper cartridges in everything from the ST1100, ST1300, VTR1000F, CBR600F4i and VFR800 5G share common shaft, tube and piston diameters. The thread on the shaft and caps is also the same. The cartridge tubes can vary in the position of the top-out springs and that affects the extended fork length. The fixed bleed paths are a little different on some e.g. the hollow bolts used in the compression base on some, but a small diameter shim to keep the main shims slightly clear of the valve face on others.
  20. According to an good online source the stock valving should be as follows: Front forks HMAS Compression valve 12 x .1 17 x .1 17 x .1 16 x .1 16 x .1 8 x .2 clamp 11.5 x .4 spacer HMAS Rebound valve 17 x .1 16 x .1 15 x.1 8 x .2 clamp 11.5 x .4 spacer My personal opinion is that the stock valve bodies are a poor starting point for mods as they have restrictive ports, so the shim selection has less of an effect than on say Gold Valves. I run a stiffer compression valve set up on GVs and yet the ride is much better on sharp hits, because the shims can deflect and allow faster flow though the bigger ports.
  21. If Jamie has had his hands on the bike then he will probably have notes on the springs and damping choices, it would be worth getting in touch with him directly. He will have set the springs to suit the previous rider and as he was a bigger lad, then the spring weight and corresponding damper shim stacks may be too much for you. The shim stacks can easily be tailored to change the ride characteristics, but at least you know that you have got some quality damper valves already. As mentioned above, start by setting the sag on the front and rear ends using the preload adjusters (looking for 1/4 to 1/3 of total travel when you sit on the bike), and maybe back off the damping adjusters. When you bounce the bike, you want the rebound to be as quick as possible without over shooting and starting another bounce. If it is an OEM shock then there is a flat-head screw located at the base of the shock, screw in to increase rebound and screw out to make it lighter. If you have adjustable rebound in the front, that will be a small flat-head screw in the top of the fork cap, same principle for adjustment.
  22. The stock VFR front end can feel jolting due to the choices made by Honda on springing (light) and damping Ihard). If you have the funds, a cartridge drop-in with correct spring weights from Daugherty Motorsports will transform comfort and feel.
  23. Thanks for the Tyre Foam suggestion; seems like it works nicely. I usually give all the under-fairing areas a dose of CRC Silicone 808 spray after cleaning, which keeps all the wiring and hoses pliable and fresh-looking.
  24. That looks similar to the procedure that I went through on the ST1100 but there seemed to be a bit more force needed on my parts; the water pump pulley is part of the cam drive belt and faces more loads I guess on that bike. The only failed component is likely to be the mechanical seal. Maybe its worth getting a 2nd hand pump and rebuilding that with the kit?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.