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Got my modified Crossrunner (same as VFR) axle back. Shortened then threaded so I can use my custom cushdrive & VFR400 brake parts. Thus keeping my chain & sprockets the same. Should get rear end back together this weekend 😁 Ready for MoT next week & NW200 trip on the 8th 👍

Bunch of extra parts, cleaning out the garage. All came off a running 1998 bike recently. - Forks have some minor pitting. - Brakes, f&r, have been set up for delinking by PO and calipers powder coated, pads are fresh. - Rear wheel has some interior scrapes, shown in pics. - Helibars (41mm) are straight but have a small dent in the riser. Prices are all OBO, not including shipping. PM with interested part and your zip code for shipping estimate. Brakes front $50 Brakes rear $40 Chain guard $15 Coils $20 Condom mirrors $25 C-stand $25 Forks $200 Front rotors $100 Front wheel $125 Givi bags $60 Helibars $140 MRA adjustable screen $75 Rear wheel $145 OEM exhaust $50 Upper and lower triples $75 Turn signals dumbos $20 Zero Gravity DB screen $50 Pics are in this album:

Indeed, this would be my last resort, too many opportunities to F... things up. running on 3 cilinders smell of fuel? been there done that, forgetting to reconnect 1 sparkplug boot.... Pull the sparkplugs and inspect them. Fitting new ones doesnot cost the workd idle the engine and spray brake cleaner amongst the carbs (take side panels off). does the engine react to this? False air Check that each of the 4 vacuum porst (1 each on each ciliner is cappd. Either by a small bolt or the spout with a rubber cap+clip any crack in the boots between carb and engine Take the fuel pump out the circuit (and disconnect the plug), reroute the fule lines. Will run fine this way as long as the tank is > half full to be sure.

Welcome to VFRED from across the pond. Function over form any day for me.... DYI tent pole canister

Hi 🖖, Welcome to this forum. I also have the same bike like yours. Congratulations on getting a mint condition bike. And you are right those mods look ugly. Unfortunately I don't have those side cases, so can't help but hope, someone else in the group will be able to provide you the correct information. Thanks

Kingslime has a point. Plugs are quicker to diagnose before carbs. Could also be a bad fuel pump. It happens.

If it has been a long time, or never, then its not for no reason. Even if it is running fine. Cleaning the sediment from the bowls and pilot jets, while replacing the orings, means it is done in your garage on your terms. Not developing an issue out on the road where you are forced to deal with it. Cleaning / rebuilding carbs can be preventative maintenance too.

Still got the boxy tail but at least the stripe should be less offensive to Captain 80s! Pulled the image from RideApart; apparently Japan only https://www.rideapart.com/news/717362/yamaha-xsr900gp-rzv500-fz400r/amp/

Update and the first drive story. I built a map usig RB sw and ran it for 3 sessions with no load over several rpms at max 20pst tps-ish and watched the rapidbike do its thing. Firstly it was way to rich in the lower department so the Powercommander numbers are not directly translatable. All the time watching the AFR/Lambda values, i managed to build a functioning "test" map for road use. I spent around 20 minutes on the road and god damn what a bike this has turned into! i have kept the ignition table from RB for now, as im not running it very hard and going for the 98oct ron with no ethanol. The closest bike i can think of for comparison is the response from the aprilia v4. Also the weigth loss is really noticeable!!! Brake upgrade is nice but not exceptional but that might change when pads ar seated properly. Suspension upgrades are mind blowing actually, but its just a first impression. A lot less dive and you can now feel the surface your riding on and that was not possible before! All in all, you dont need to buy a modern bike, just throw all that money at your old vfr 😂 Anyway, this all ended rather surprisingly in my driveway. On the last trip i noticed AFR 18, this while within my 20pst load run on the road. We have all seen those dyno runs right? Steady throttle and let it run up in the rpm? This is how i run while adapting the map. So got home, parked in my driveway, tok a 10minute break. Fired it up and there it is, a Big end bearing noise. Back on the table i took of my clutchcover to rule out any transmission issues, remowed the clutch and kept the input shaft still with my hand - noise still present... So yeah, i had severe detonation on this 18:1 afr run an thrashed a rod bearing was my tought. Thinking i could inspect a rod bearing i remowed the sump and found the piece of shift-dog. So i tore it down and found what you have seen in the picture. absolutely no rotating parts that can explain this. Also, my oil is kind of shiny so there are definitly something going on. i have not remowed the heads yet. Also, on this startup i had wierd lambda values and on my last startup i had no lambda values. I hope this is not going to be a LSU4.9 eater, that gets expensive really fast!!! I dont know when RB starts heating the probes but if this starts to early it will kill the sensors due to moisture. I have to do some investigation. Inspecting cylinders with a camera shows wet right cylinders, but fine left ones. Evidence of lambda issues... For all i know, the shift dog found in the sump can be vintage - anyones guess, 10 years? last season? 1999? Never had a transmission hickup. Also, I had major clutch slippage on my first and only 50% throttle. New Barnett, fully rebuilt clutch system, damn, and worse than ever! I only noticed it slightly before - like "was that a slipping clutch, hmm I have to test again, nothing ok." Now there is no doubt! Those 99lbs clutch springs are not really available as far as I can google. Anyone know where I can get them?

Sounds like you might be running off three cylinders. This happened to me and the issue was simply a loose spark plug boot. You can diagnose this by following the spark plug resistance measurements in the manual and by also carefully touching the headers when you first start up the bike and see if any of them are cold. I was about to rip the carbs out and clean them for no reason.

There's a guy on FB called Stefan does it remotely. Only heard good words about his work.

Hello All, This is my first post. I bought this 2008 VFR800 from a retired police officer, it was his personal bike. He kept it nice and stock in almost every respect. The one challenge I am having is with the pannier stays: The stays were retrofitted, poorly, to go around aftermarket Micron exhaust cans. You can see in the pictures the stay is 1" off the plastic fairing on the left stay, and 1/16" on the right. It looks terrible. I want to cut the stays, grind, and reweld them. Can any one share the correct stock dimensional distance between the stay and the plastic fairing? Thanks in advance,

Thank you Grum... much appreciated for your comment. I'll stick to the recommendations

Who is still doing flashes? I believe Guhl no longer does them? Sold my '12 about 5 years ago, thinking of getting another one. Had a Guhl flash done.

No don't think so, its size doesn't match the OEM YTZ12S, terminal height is 35mm taller than the OEM and has a lower CCA rating of 200amps. Best to go with a YTZ14S, CCA of 230amps AGM battery, and it's the same physical size as the YTZ12S. "Clearing Old Stock" might not be the best way to go when it comes to batteries!

juhttps://www.youtube.com/@raceandretrost stumbled across it

Good day I'm wondering if a ytx14-bs fa battery will work as a suitable replacement in my 2014 vfr800f? Repco is clearing their old stock of this battery and I was considering putting a fresh battery in...

I have a GIVI 257FZ rack and a M5M top plate. It was used and taken off but I believe all the rack hardware is there but I you'll need bolts for the top plate. I'm selling as a complete kit, instructions included. (New from GIVI the rack goes for $127 and the top plate for $68.) I'll let both go for $120 plus shipping (OBO) Shipping from Anaheim, CA.

They recently bought TCX too.

There's overdue. Then there's showered with foam overdue. My old Schwantz Arai, that was relegated to indoor carting duty, developed a case of black dandruff too. Up on the shelf it went, next to my original Arai Freddie Spencer Supervent.

Not clear what you mean by I noticed that it started really easy with no difficulty. then attempted it the second time round another day and it was really difficult I had to apply the throttle to keep it going Was the first attempt before or after your SV synch work? Was the second time another day after your SV synch work? Have you checked the MAP? If so what was the result? Have you checked the ECT? If so what was the result?

Yes I did mention in my last comment I have done a throttle body sync/ start valve sync please excuse my terminology.

Its been quite a few years... I had a Shoei RF-1100 that when the last time I put it on, I got showered with shredded foam. (yeah, I know I'm overdue.)

Have you done the SV synch? Which needs to be done with the engine fully warm You could check the MAP; the procedure is in the manual