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About BartmanEH

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    Pearl Cosmic Black........ "You are the best" (Nacho)

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  • Location
    Ottawa, Canada
  • In My Garage:
    er, shed: 2006 Black Interceptor ABS

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  1. Gsxr Mirrors On 6th Gen

    Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(
  2. 6Th Gen Abs Brake Fluid Change Guide

    I edited the post above and updated it based on this year's fluid change experience.
  3. Brakes

  4. Starter Valve sync 18 AUG 2014

  5. Air Box

  6. Hugger

  7. As a follow up to this, I'm glad to report that many thousands of kilometers later, this mod is working fine for me. My concern - stated in previous post - over splitting the signal and creating an additional load on the VSS is unfounded since [1] it's working fine and [2] the original wiring splits the VSS signal into the speedometer circuit and the ECM anyway so it's always had the load of those two circuits. With this mod and and the Speedohealer installed, the load on the VSS is the Speedohealer and ECM instead of the Speedometer and ECM - that amounts to the same thing. We're all good!
  8. Avatar & Signature

  9. Jay, the photo in "G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw" shows actuating the SMC, but I think this line is done with the rear brake pedal - please confirm. Also, for the record, I never remove the front left caliper for fluid replacement - I just manually actuate the SMC with the caliper in place. Works fine and you don't risk wearing out the mounting bolts or squeezing the pads together making reassembly difficult. I'd also like to point out that with speedbleeders, when doing the SMC line, if you don't close the speedbleeder on PCV, the rear pedal will not force the SMC back out very effectively - most of the pressure seems to bypass the SMC and escape out the PCV speedbleeder. I figured this out too late after doing two bikes' fluid replacement. For that line you really are better off closing the valve between SMC squeezes. The problem is that the speedbleeders have sealant on the threads and don't like to turn easily and will get the sealant worn off quickly if you do close and open it so many times. I'm going to look into getting a fancy (expensive) Stahlbus bleeder for at least this one troublesome position - they're designed for maintenance free opening and closing.
  10. Steering Stem

  11. Jon, I'm revitalizing this thread. Tonight I rewired my SpeedoHealer as you suggested. I do feel better about the concept that the ECU will now be getting the stock unmodified signal as it was designed to do and the corrected SpeedoHealer signal now runs just to the instrument panel and speedometer. So, first of all, a huge thank you to Jon (Coderighter) for his excellent research on this and for sharing his great solution. The only thing I did differently is that I removed the pin from the instrument side of the light grey connector and soldered my new wire directly onto the upper part of the pin contact where the original pink wire is crimped. This way I can remove the heat shrink tubing, desolder my added wire and return the pin contact into the grey connector and restore the factory wiring. My concern is, having now split the speed sensor signal into the ECU and the SpeedoHealer, if this signal is not designed for a high impedance input, I have just increased the load on this signal. I mean, if the speed sensor's output is a whimpy hall effect type signal that requires special receiver circuitry for amplification etc., then I have just seriously compromised the circuit and, hence, the reliability. Now I am inclined to research the speed sensor and what type of signal it generates. The Honda FSM refers to it as the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). It is maybe a magnetic field anomaly detector or similar. It doesn't touch anything but rather is positioned very close to the front sprocket's teeth and detects them as they whir around. As such, it seems to be a rather delicate signal. Power is applied to the VSS, along wi reference ground, and it generates a modulated gentle signal of some sort. I wonder how delicate this signal might be and whether it might be affected by the apparent load of the SpeedoHealer's corresponding signal input circuit which, like the ECU, would be designed to amplify this wonky special signal of the VSS. Meh, that's just the anal retentive electrical engineer part of me over analyzing and worrying. Bottom line is, if it works, it works! I'm gonna have two fingers of scotch right now to calm myself down :-)
  12. Halloween 2011

    BartmanEH and Speedball73 dress up as CHiPs' Ponch and John for Halloween
  13. Combination Meter

  14. In the fall of 2010 I replaced the fluids in my 06. It was a pretty straight forward task, albeit time consuming. The oil&filter change was easiest. Next easiest was the clutch fluid change - only one straight forward bleeder there to deal with. The coolant change took a little more work. I went all out and removed the drain plugs, replaced their copper crush washers, drained the cross tube under the engine by taking it apart, etc. When I was burping the system after refilling it, I forgot to take the bike off the center stand and put it on the side stand. Purging the system of air is really a lot easier when on the side stand and not the center stand. Lesson learned. Now replacing the brake fluid in my ABS model, that was really something. There are no less than 7 bleeders! It took 3 people to do it. The first person operated the level/pedal and refilled the reservoirs as required, the second person opened/closed each bleeder in succession and the third person was required for the one bleeder that required manually pumping the second master cylinder on the left front brake. I will definitely be looking into SpeedBleeders or Stahlbus Bleeders for the next time to simply the process. In the meantime, I thought I'd document the procedure I came up with for doing the brake fluid change. The Service Manual has a few errors in it e.g. tells you to remove and tilt up the fr. left caliper but never tells you to reinstall it and it tells you refill and reinstall the lever reservoir cover but then goes on to bleed a few more bleeders that use fluid from that reservoir. There's been a lot of posts about what the correct order is and people having problems with spongy brakes which turned out to be because they forgot a bleeder or did it in the wrong order. The following system worked very well for the two 6th gen ABS models I did last fall. It's not a tutorial per se; there's no pictures and no details (for that, you can look up the excellent HS pictorial-based tutorial or the new Jay-D tutorial) and I didn't include obvious steps like removing the seat etc. I made an overall hydraulic system picture by combining elements of several pictures from the Factory Service Manual: This took a lot of Photoshop manipulation but it was worth it. This overall view of the hydraulic circuit helps to visualize how the system works. For example, it clearly shows that the SMC is refilled from the rear reservoir. These are the steps you need to take: - Turn handlebar all the way to the left to level Lever Reservoir - Open Lever and Pedal Reservoirs - Remove old fluid from Lever and Pedal Reservoirs - Fill Lever and Pedal Reservoirs with new fluid - Remove the rear wheel - Remove Rear Brake Caliper and install on top rear of Rear Brake Disc at 10 o'clock position - Maintain fluid level in both Reservoirs at all times Operate the Lever during bleeding of the initial four bleeder in the following order: Lever Brake Line: Master Cylinder to Front Brake Caliper [1] Left Front Brake Caliper outer (upper) bleeder (use Lever) [2] Right Front Brake Caliper bleeder (use Lever) Servo Brake Line: Second Master Cylinder to Servo Proportional Control Valve NOTE: this bleeder (even if it's a Speed-Bleeder) must be shut off between the following steps; [3][a] manually depress Second Master Cylinder at Left Front Caliper [3] close bleeder [3][c] use Pedal to recharge Second Master Cylinder (SMC) [3][d] open bleeder and repeat [3][a]-[3][c] Servo Brake Line: Rear Proportional Control Valve to Rear Brake Caliper [4] Rear Brake Caliper Center bleeder (use Pedal) Operate the Pedal during bleeding of the remaining three bleeders in the following order: Pedal Brake Line: Rear Master Cylinder to Rear Proportional Control Valve [5] Rear Proportional Control Valve (right side) bleeder (use Pedal) Pedal Brake Line: Rear Proportional Control Valve to Rear Brake Caliper [6] Rear Brake Caliper Outer bleeder (use Pedal) Pedal Brake Line: Rear Master Cylinder to Left Front Brake Caliper [7] Left Front Caliper Center bleeder (use Pedal) - Reinstall Left Front Brake Caliper (if removed) - Reinstall Rear Brake Caliper using new mounting bolts: 2 X 90131-GAA-000, BOLT, FLANGE (8X25) (torque 23ft-lbs) - Refill Lever and Pedal Reservoirs as required to Upper Level Marks - Close Lever and Pedal Reservoirs - Reinstall rear wheel (torque 80ft-lbs)

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