BartmanEH

I use this cable to secure electronics or tank bag using a small padlock looped through this cable’s eyelet. Just enough to deter would be thieves from walking away with an item.

Respect to you members riding 80's VFs. Wow, admire the passion.

I don't think it's a case of air in the rear brake system affecting the front brake system--it's more that with the Linked Braking System, you've got front brake system plumbing running all the way to the rear brake via the PCV, so you need to bleed the two front brakes, the PCV and the rear brake (forgot which one of the two specifically at the rear brake caliper) in order to bleed the air from the front brake system.

Easy now... everyone is just trying to help. I appreciate all the tips, everyone!

I think bmart was replying to my original post where I asked if I should just jam some grease in there

Aight, let's see how brave I feel about picking apart the bearings. I have a tub of Lucas Extra Heavy Duty Grease. What is the bearing seal made of? Metal or plastic?

Hard to tell from the microfiche (#18 in parts microfiche) but I certainly see grease in the gap behind the seal. Not much for hints in the service manual either: Maybe they're sealed as you suggest, @bmart

Did a search and didn't find anything about greasing/maintaining the front wheel bearings. Even the service manual has no specifics--just a remove and replace procedure. I've got the wheels off and new rubber installed. Before I put the front wheel on, I feel I should do SOMETHING to the bearings. I see a beefy dust seal on each side. That doesn't look easy to pop out without damaging it and I'm not sure what the lead time is on replacement new ones here in Canada. Only have 30,000 km on it (18,500 miles). Can I just jam some bearing grease behind the seal and into the bearing area? Should I do something more like removing the bearings and repacking them?

I’m sure Tapatalk support is a sore point. I noticed it was removed as of Oct 2020. Since that thread is archived/closed, I have to burn a new thread to ask if Tapatalk support will be added again.

^^^this. I've asked for this step to be modified in the guide a few times and many people are missing this important step--close the bleeder between actuating SMC and before refilling with rear pedal. I reference this in my short form guide.

This is why I recommend closing the bleeder between actuating SMC and pressing pedal per my short form guide. Closing the bleeder (even if it's a Speedbleeder) and then pressing the pedal will force the SMC back out thus filling it.

Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(

I edited the post above and updated it based on this year's fluid change experience.