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About BartmanEH

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    Pearl Cosmic Black........ "You are the best" (Nacho)

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  • Location
    Ottawa, Canada
  • In My Garage:
    Black 2006 VFR800A Interceptor ABS

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  1. BartmanEH


  2. Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(
  3. I edited the post above and updated it based on this year's fluid change experience.
  4. As a follow up to this, I'm glad to report that many thousands of kilometers later, this mod is working fine for me. My concern - stated in previous post - over splitting the signal and creating an additional load on the VSS is unfounded since [1] it's working fine and [2] the original wiring splits the VSS signal into the speedometer circuit and the ECM anyway so it's always had the load of those two circuits. With this mod and and the Speedohealer installed, the load on the VSS is the Speedohealer and ECM instead of the Speedometer and ECM - that amounts to the same thing. We're all good!
  5. Jay, the photo in "G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw" shows actuating the SMC, but I think this line is done with the rear brake pedal - please confirm. Also, for the record, I never remove the front left caliper for fluid replacement - I just manually actuate the SMC with the caliper in place. Works fine and you don't risk wearing out the mounting bolts or squeezing the pads together making reassembly difficult. I'd also like to point out that with speedbleeders, when doing the SMC line, if you don't close the speedbleeder on PCV, the rear pedal will not force the SMC back out very effectively - most of the pressure seems to bypass the SMC and escape out the PCV speedbleeder. I figured this out too late after doing two bikes' fluid replacement. For that line you really are better off closing the valve between SMC squeezes. The problem is that the speedbleeders have sealant on the threads and don't like to turn easily and will get the sealant worn off quickly if you do close and open it so many times. I'm going to look into getting a fancy (expensive) Stahlbus bleeder for at least this one troublesome position - they're designed for maintenance free opening and closing.
  6. Jon, I'm revitalizing this thread. Tonight I rewired my SpeedoHealer as you suggested. I do feel better about the concept that the ECU will now be getting the stock unmodified signal as it was designed to do and the corrected SpeedoHealer signal now runs just to the instrument panel and speedometer. So, first of all, a huge thank you to Jon (Coderighter) for his excellent research on this and for sharing his great solution. The only thing I did differently is that I removed the pin from the instrument side of the light grey connector and soldered my new wire directly onto the upper part of the pin contact where the original pink wire is crimped. This way I can remove the heat shrink tubing, desolder my added wire and return the pin contact into the grey connector and restore the factory wiring. My concern is, having now split the speed sensor signal into the ECU and the SpeedoHealer, if this signal is not designed for a high impedance input, I have just increased the load on this signal. I mean, if the speed sensor's output is a whimpy hall effect type signal that requires special receiver circuitry for amplification etc., then I have just seriously compromised the circuit and, hence, the reliability. Now I am inclined to research the speed sensor and what type of signal it generates. The Honda FSM refers to it as the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). It is maybe a magnetic field anomaly detector or similar. It doesn't touch anything but rather is positioned very close to the front sprocket's teeth and detects them as they whir around. As such, it seems to be a rather delicate signal. Power is applied to the VSS, along wi reference ground, and it generates a modulated gentle signal of some sort. I wonder how delicate this signal might be and whether it might be affected by the apparent load of the SpeedoHealer's corresponding signal input circuit which, like the ECU, would be designed to amplify this wonky special signal of the VSS. Meh, that's just the anal retentive electrical engineer part of me over analyzing and worrying. Bottom line is, if it works, it works! I'm gonna have two fingers of scotch right now to calm myself down :-)
  7. BartmanEH

    Halloween 2011

    BartmanEH and Speedball73 dress up as CHiPs' Ponch and John for Halloween
  8. Version 14 NOV 2012


    There are several really great and easy to use online microfiche websites. However, when it comes to finding a part and you're unsure of exactly which microfiche its on, it can be somewhat difficult to find. I wanted an offline microfiche and parts list document that was searchable to find what I needed or take with me when I'm working on the VFR. I couldn't find one anywhere so I thought I'd make one from the printable versions of the online ones. Well, this turned out to be much harder than I anticipated. After countless hours of downloading, saving pages, editing them for readability and compiling them into one document, the result was a nice straightforward searchable document. I thought I'd share my efforts in case others found it useful. This document is specifically for the 2006 Honda VFR800A Interceptor ABS (note that it's the ABS version - lots of extra brake plumbing!). It even includes the Evap Canister stuff for the California model, even though mine doesn't have this. The usual disclaimers apply. Before ordering anything and when in doubt, consult the latest online versions - there are superseded part numbers that come out from Honda all the time. Don't be shy, feel free to post questions at VFRD - there's a lot of helpful members here. Enjoy!
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