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The beginning

In 1983 I was working for the UK bike press when the VF750F was launched. I tested it and loved it. At the time I was racing enduro and could not afford to do that and run a road motorcycle. Last year I got the chance to buy a pair of VF750 Interceptors for just £840 (US$1115). One was running but needed work and the other was in bits. The complete bike needed new fork seals and bushes, new head bearings, new chain and sprockets, brake calipers stripping and overhauling with new seals etc, new tyres, oil leak from front valve cover fixing, and a full service. Over here in the UK we have the excellent David Silver Spares who hold a lot of parts for all older Hondas, and what they don't have they try hard to get when asked. t took me a couple of months of spare time in the workshop to get the complete bike roadworthy and I've been stunned by how good it is for a 34 year old machine. It's quite quick, it's comfortable and it handles really well on its new Bridgestone BT45s. Excellent. So what about the other one? Well the one thing the Interceptor has against it in my opinion is the weight, same as all other bikes of that era. I figure that as much weight as possible shed - titanium wheel spindles, Dymag wheels, aluminium swingarm, etc. it will make a truly amazing bike for modern roads. Yup, the desire may have lain dormant for 34 years, but I am well and truly hooked.

JimLindsay

JimLindsay

Sold a pup VFR800 vtec 04

Okay I've been naive.  Two years ago I bought a VFR800 on eBay unridden and delivered by a reputable dealer.  Turns out it's not firing on the rear left cylinder.  Took it to an independent Honda guy who spent a week checking the bike over and is struggling to find the source of the problem.  Mechanicals check out, apart from unbalanced butterfly valves, electric looms all good, new plugs, injectors all ultrasonically cleaned and swapped around to eliminate a dud, no issues. Coils too are all fine.  Compression to cylinders all good.  Turns out bike was imported from the USA an 04 bike brought here in 06 with low mileage.  Really clean condition albeit with the wrong headlight. Oh how I curse myself for parting with my gen 5.  Answers on a postcard please. All I really want now is an fjr1300 to soothe my VFR800 vtec woes but no one wants it surprise surprise.  

Wightwalker

Wightwalker

 

Trying to find touch-up paint

My dealership can't seem to find some Pearl White touch-up paint for my 2014 VFR-800 Deluxe. I have searched the web but still can't find any. Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Senger

Senger

 

cycleknight

my 6th gen 2002 vfr died on me on a road trip a few months back and just know took it to my local honda dealer for diagnose/ repair they said my rectifier was the problem plus plugs,battery while troubleshooting. While they where troubleshooting my instrument cluster was fried and power commander now mind u before hand my bike ran for years. Go to get my bike a month later, shop was backlogged + short on technicians, now they tell me at idle only three clyinders are firing and only when u ride the fourth kicks but everything checks out ok on all tests,compression,spark,fuel etc.. mind u again paid $765 already for labor and parts but still not running right?      

CYCLEKNIGHT

CYCLEKNIGHT

 

Recall and a Gutting.

Hi Guys and Gals,   So spoke to my nearest Honda motorcycle dealer Rick Gills Motorcycles and Paul from their parts and service was very helpful. Turns out my bike hasn't had the recall work carried out as shown by a lack of punch/stamp below the J on the head stock VIN stamp. As shown below.   There should be a dot punched/stamped there below the J if the recall work has been carried out. So if any of the Aussie 6th geners are reading that's what to check if you have a bike with a VIN between JH2RC46U*2M400005 to JH2RC46U*5M700241. (Don't know if the mark is standard across the world/regions).   So the part(s) have been ordered and I'll get a call in a week or 2 to book it in for the work.     On the exhaust front I got some great feedback (for once ) with Gumtree. A couple of interstate riders willing to help out but shipping would have defeated the purpose of keeping the cost down. Ended up getting a pair off of a great bloke named Simon locally on Monday for a 100 buckaroos. Local exhaust shop said $25 a side to weld the ends back on so I got to it last night as shown.   I marked approximately 6mm in from the centre of the weld to cut with the hack saw. Sorry about the photo quality.   A bit of persuasion and BFI and I got it out..       Got the other side done and called it a night.   In total it took about 1 hour and a half and a few beers.   I dropped the cans off at the exhaust shop this morning, as they are flat out and my job is no worth much to them it could take a day or 2. I'll be annoyed if I can't try them by the weekend. I'll try to get some audio recording as well to put up.   Thanks for taking the time to check it out.   Cheers.

Karbunkle

Karbunkle

 

The cold light of day. Part 2

So today's entry is pretty short.   Have placed a want-ad on gumtree for a set of factory cans so i can do a baffle-ectomy but keep an original set as spare, hopefully I'll have some news on that soon.   Other wise I checked out the fuse holder under the seat and found pretty much what everyone has found, slightly discolored in spots and one of the wires has warm soft insulation just after running. Also noticed the headlights are a bit dicky with coming on as they should be on all the time (here in oz anyway) a very very quick tap of the starter button showed the problem is some how related. (The starting circuit/headlight relay? I'll have to have a closer look another time). Finally I just need to confirm this coming week with Honda as to whether the my bike has had the recall carried out as per...https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recall/honda-vfr800-motorcycles (A well know recall here on this forum).   Below are some photos of the various scratches and scraps I've found so far, and the previous owner has chucked on a set of Metzeler Racetec RR tires that were left over from his sons 600 super sport (sponsored) bike. Overall pretty good nick for the age and distance traveled.   Cheers.  

Karbunkle

Karbunkle

 

The cold light of day.

Hi all and welcome to my blog hope you all enjoy.....   So its been 12 years since owning a motorcycle and now I have a well used and reasonable well looked after 2005 Pearl Heron Blue VFR800. I've only test ridden a few liter sport bikes once I got off my provisional license way back when but this is my first time owning something other then a 250cc. You'll have to forgive the no doubt sometimes novice remarks and just remember I'm just a fellow enthusiast not a MotoGP rider .   After close to a week and close enough to 200klms under my belt on it I've had time to notice things in some more detail. I can not nor am complaining with a bike that cost $3200 Aussie bucks that is in this condition but there are thing that need to change at some point and thing I may need to get use too, especially considering I've been out of the saddle for so long. For the very first photos i took of her please check out my post "G'day from Perth" in the welcome section, there are a couple of camera phone photos in there.   For the riding part the first thing that got my attention is the grips, they feel a little thin to me and after about an hour I seemed to be getting a bit of vibration through the bars but it only effected my right hand really. My left leg was feeling a bit cramped at around the hour mark as well. Throttle transitions from off/on at lower revs seems to be a bit of a dice roll in regards to how smooth it will be. Need to look at the clutch take-up/friction point as it feels very late and embarrassingly i maybe riding it a little at take off ( Its been a long time...) Finally the older orange/amber indicators annoy me only because I've seen the updated ones from the 06/07 on-wards models and the pair valve is starting to grate me a little hearing in open and close. I am kind of happy about the noise/note from the rider point of view with the bike but standing next to it the factory system doesn't do the V4 justice.   Loving the noise (although muted some what) especially when VTEC kicks in, also finding the bike surprisingly easy to ride. I like the combined braking and the stability of the bike in general, to me its like a mirror in that if you ride lazy it will feel a little on the big/heavy side like it is lazy bike it self but once you start to apply force in your riding it starts to shrink under you and come alive. My very limit previous experience/memory's are that even the liter sport bikes I test rode and a couple of mates 600s didn't feel so broad in there character. After the couple of rides I've had now i'm super glad to be back on a bike, what i was missing in getting nods and waves from friendly motorcyclists and really happy to get the model I've wanted for quite sometime.   Below is a photo I took parked at Mosman Park on Curtin avenue earlier this afternoon, Indian Ocean in the back ground. It was a beautiful day 26*c nothing but blue skies, 64% Humidity and a cool breeze coming straight of the Indian Ocean. (photo was on the phone..)   Cheers.  

Karbunkle

Karbunkle

 

Pair, Flapper And Snorkel Mod For 6 Gen

Heard nothing but good reviews about these mods for the 6 Gen so I decided to try them. Its been about a month now of some hard serious riding and I gotta say I love it. They really make the bike seem different (in a good way). I was skeptical at first, but totally glad I did it. Here's the link. Do yourself a favor and try it. http://johnny.chadda.se/pair-and-flapper-mod-with-bonus-snorkel-mod-for-vfr/

Nyceguy9mm

Nyceguy9mm

 

New To Me Vfr 800

I've been off motorcycles sice 2010 kinda rusty on skills & new stuff. Suggestion anyone?? My week in review Monday bought 2000 VFR from Sasha in North Carolina located shipper! So far so good! Tuesday totaled 2011 Caterpillar dumptruck & walked away with a concussion left rotater cuff (again) & a few tender spots! While at home I decided to order a few things for the VFR Stainless Steel header from Delkevic VFR has Staintune slip-on already looking at stainless brake lines anyone?? Sending fork tubes and 929 rear Shock to Jamie! Thanks to Sasha all around great guy who sold me the yellow beauty for a great price IMHO and after the deal he threw in a Battery Tender & shop Manual and a few other parts!Thanks Sasha! I'll upload a few pix of the VFR and the Cat dumptruck when I figure out how not feeling to good due to a feeeewwww tender spots! Have to pass out a few well deserved kudos to the Big Spring TX VA well done folks! Dr. Kim & Ugert Care at the VA crew are the best! Thanks RN Tony!! Also my very good great friend Steve P!. God blessed me with friends!! If anyone doesn't beleive in God they have never wrecked a semi truck! When the truck came to a stop I was on my knees!! Very carefully still sore I removed the battery from the old CB & put it on to charge. I need to replace it by summer. Again suggestions? All of my riding gear has shrunk since Iraq, Katrina, Haiti. Need some Jacket 48 Pants Large. I have excellent used Vanson stuff and would love to trade if possible. Saturday 05/2015 The VFR came in from Sasha! Better than he said! I knew from talking to in it would be good but I didn't think it would be this good! Still to sore to get my leg over the saddle!

wayfastwil

wayfastwil

 

Front Noise

Hi my 2012 vfr1200f makes a rattling noise coming from the front when accelerating. Cant find anything loose on the fairing. please assist

salim

salim

 

So You Wanna Buy A Bike? What To Do When You Show Up At Joe Schmoe's House With Some Cash In Your Pocket...

So you wanna buy a used bike huh? How many bikes have you checked out/bought in the past? The following is just MY initial list for things to check when looking at a used bike...at a dealer or private individual. This list is NOT exhaustive--it was initially stream of conciousness, so the order is not necessarily optimal either. There is a wealth of knowledge on how to buy a new bike. Usually a Google search on "how to buy a used motorcycle" is a pretty good place to start...that said, it won't get you here!

Basically, the strategy I take is that you put a not to exceed price on a bike you are going to RIDE (collecting bikes is a different story and these "rules" don't necessarily apply when you're insane about collecting) and don't EVER buy one for more than that...the reason is that another one will always show up somewhere--oh and it will probably be in better shape than the one you're currently inspecting. NEVER be desperate! YOU are the buyer and YOU have cash...cash is king! So operate from a position of abundance, you are in control. Be fair, be kind, don't be a dick...but be in control. I used to be an Air Force Officer and this approach works well for buying cars and getting groups of people to do what you want as well...if you are needy, desperate and a dick...you will be hard pressed to get what you must. Above all, be honest--that includes not leaving out key information (especially if you're selling).

It's amazing how keeping your side of the street clean ends up in positive motorcycle karma! Beware, honest, straightforward thoughtful, smart buyers tend to scare about 30% of the people...you don't reallly want a bike from those people...So here's my "how to list to buy a used motorcycle". This is aimed toward the VFR rider, but you can use 90% of it for any modern Japanese bike, maybe 85% for standard or cruisers. BEFORE YOU GO:  Just for precaution's sake, always leave a trip plan with a friend or family member...whether you're riding, looking at a bike, hiking or on business.  That way, if something should go wrong on the way there or back someone knows your plan--heck you may just run out of gas in an area with no cell coverage...or your cell battery died along with your charger.   Taking a buddy is a good way to split up tasks so you can be objective AND observant.  What is the owner nervous about when you ask questions or poke around on the bike?  People will give you clues.  Also, a friend can keep you from being too "rosy" or too down on one thing and help you evaluate the overall value of the bike that you're inspecting. Before you go--let the owner know you want the bike cold--so you can see how it starts and runs when cold.  Get permission beforehand to take a test ride.  Get the background from the owner before you get there and ask him again when you arrive--note any differences, if any, in the stories--significant ones can be a clue to whether you're getting the whole story or not. YOU'VE ARRIVED: 
1. Ask for the service history...if the guy doesn't take it to the dealer for this...ask for his log. If he doesn't keep one, that is one nock against the bike...no records means no proof of maintenance...not always bad, but not a positive. Check the VIN and see if this is a California model or not (will have evap canister on the bike as well...important iif you live in Cali I imagine. Write down the VIN and I think you can ask your insurance company or the dealer to see the history of the bike (if it has been crashed--reported--or not).

2. Bike should be COLD when you walk up...if not, then he either jumped it or got it started and warmed up so it would start easier (the first time)...this isn't normally a problem with an FI bike, more often with bikes that have carbs...but still...it is a potential sign.

3. Check the color of the oil level and color of the oil through side viewing window (rt side engine case ahead of the clutch housing) with bike on center stand...oil level should be between two lines--if too low, take a note...will probably be darker as well. If too high--above the second line -- that's definitely not good either.

4. Bring some hex wrenches and peel off the left side fairing (ask first) and look at the coolant level, cold. It should have coolant in between the two lines. After you start it up and get it to temp it should rise somewhat.

5. if you have a Volt Meter, take the seat off. Check to see if the factory tools are all there...and check the cold voltage on the battery. >12.2V but that's not enough. After you start the bike the voltage (DC) should be >13.5 at 2500 rpm and less than 14.8V at 5000 rpm. Here's the fault finding guide link from electro-sport...https://www.google.c...102537793,d.dmo

6. Let the bike warm up at idle for at least 5 minutes...the temperature should be >175F...if its a hot day let it idle for 20-25 minutes and the temp should go up to 220...the fan should kick on...if temp goes above 225 and no fan you have an issue (the displayed temp is wrong or the fan switch is not working or there is an open circuit in the fan circuit...)..either way you need to get the bike to temp and make sure the fan comes on...you can rev the bike safely after 5 minutes and it is up to temp to get the temps up...

7. if it is at temp, check the weep hole under the water pump to see if any coolant is coming out...use a flashlight, see if the weep hole is not gunked up first...if it is, un-plug it with something small...if there is fluid coming out the shaft seal on the water pump is shot...this is not good but repairable.

8. You should also ask for a test ride--if possible. Be prepared to leave your car keys or, something to secure the fact that you might ride off with the bike. Don't push it--you don't know IF there's something wrong or not. Start slowly and act like it is an MSF course...go through the gears, do some braking to a stop, go down through the gears...work up to Emergency stop conditions. Eventually get up to full throttle upshifts, but don't push top speed (it's not your bike--you're just making sure it isn't a pile of broken bolts). Wear your gear--ATGATT! Make sure your insurance will cover this (call before you test ride!) if something goes wrong.

9. Look for crash damage to the fairings...cracks or obvious repairs...better if you can pull off the side fairings and check them and the seat off to see if the rear has been repaired. all the fairings should line up easily...all the fasteners should be there...and should be factory...even behind the front wheel in front of the front cylinders...these little clips are a pain, sometimes we replace them with similar types...not too concerning, but they should all be there.

10. Look at the engine cases to see if they have been ground down. Look for oil leaks/fluid leaks under the bike. Look at the oil plug and oil filter see if there's any leaking oil.

11. look at the bar ends...are they stock or aftermarket?...if aftermarket, ask to see the factory ones...they should not be ground down...a scuff is OK, ground down means laid down...not just a tip over. Look for dents in the tank...Look at the front turn signals...cracks around them means they were either crashed and broken or tipped over. If they are replaced with aftermarket, ask to see the stock ones ("in case you want to put them back on") if they are scuffed or not there they were probably broken in a crash.

12. with bike on center stand and facing a garage door, check out the headlight pattern...I've seen it where one was higher than the other...menaing the front fairing stays were bent ...you should be able to see this also if the front windscreen and fairing are closer to one handlebar or the other...as you sit on the bike with the front wheel straight ahead.

13. Bring a string...and do the alignment method on the front and rear wheels...with an SSA (single sided swingarm) if these are not aligned, the frame is bent (http://www.motorcycl...wheel-alignment).

14. Look at the chain and rear sprocket...if the teeth are worn, ask when it was replaced...if no records assume you need to replace front, rear and chain....this is at least $200 negotiating point. Same with tires, used tires are OK, new better, if they are at the wear bars, it is a negotiating point worth at least $300 to $400.

15. Look for rust at any of the subframe welds...to me, this indicates it was bent, cracked the paint and is now weakened.

16. Look under the seat and see if he has any switched relays for accessories...is there a fuse for the relay? How are the electrical connections, are they professionally done or look like an amateur slice and dice job?

17. Look at the brake fluid color and the clutch fluid color...take the tops off and see if there's gunk in the resevoir...should be light or color of honey at most...brown is bad, gray or black is horrible. front and rear rotors should show some wear but not big ridges or gouges...a little rust is OK if it sits outside, but should wipe off ...lots of pitting is bad. The pads front and rear should be able to be inspected with a flashlight...should have more than a 16th and near an 8th at least...if it looks like its almost flat means they are way gone...need not only replaced, but you need to check the caliper bores as well and maybe refresh. Have someone push down on the rear of the bike and get the front wheel off the ground...spin it. it should spin freely, you should hear the brake pads lightly sing on the rotors, but it should be fairly even and very light...wheel should spin a few rotations...not stop quickly or hear the singing pulse. if it sings, means the rotor carriers are bent most likely, an indication of a crash or someone was hamfisted changing the front tire...not a good sign. same with the rear wheel and bike in neutral, cept it won't spin as much because of the chain drag...so listen to the rear brake for dragging caliper...should not drag too much...and have some meat on the pads.

There's plenty more you could check, but that's some of what I try to go over...if you can get a test ride there's more to do/feel...but I would ride it without earplugs...you should hear the Pair system flapper opening and closing when you start out and come to a stop...the chain should sound smooth when idling and clutch in...taking off shouldn't be snatchy. It should snick into second gear, third etc...easily. braking should be straight.

So the best tool and tip I have here is tip numero cero #0: Be prepared--do your homework on the bike and it's foibles and idiosyncrasies--plusses & minuses AND make a checklist of things to BRING and DO when you get there! Have a plan for how much you will knock off the price or three prices for Excellent, OK and bad bikes! Don't vary...be prepared to walk away and have no regrets when you do...there's always a bike in a shed somewhere else that's better cared for than this one and it probably cost less!

Have Fun and be safe and do good, that's what its all about!

Matt
Sept 28, 2015

zupatun

zupatun

 

Vfr Question

Ok guys i need some help or advice....

I am in the process of selling/trading my Honda RC51 for a VFR

I have two people with VFR's who would like to trade and I'm not very familiar with the bikes yet.
so my question is which should i go with or is there a big difference between the two

1st: 2008 VFR the dark silver color. it has 20,000 miles on it and is stock except for a full exhaust that was put on, paint and body are in near perfect shape.

2nd: 2005 VFR the lighter silver color, has 18,000 miles, aftermarket bars(not risers but full bars) slip on exhaust, givi windshield, givi bags, after market seat. paint has few minor scratches.

both are up to date on maintenance with the valve jobs already being done.

will i see a difference between the two bikes as far a years are concerned or are they basically the same. and am i dumb to pass up the older bike with lots of extras for the 08 bc i like the dark silver over the light silver but would be ok either way?

please weigh in on this and thanks for the help

drhoy

drhoy

 

Help Needed (Tour Questionnaire)

Dear fellow motorcyclist,

we are a new company with experienced motorbike tour guides and we would greatly appreciate your help in completing the attached questionnaire.
Our mission is for you to have beautiful, unique and happy experiences in our amazing country. Our vision is for people to have long lasting memories of their time here in Greece and for us to have an honest and friendly relationship with our tour participants from all over the world.

Please download the questionnaire from the link below and send to tenere775@yahoo.gr

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnuj8plq5pony09/E%CF%81%CF%89%CF%84%CE%B7%CE%BC%CE%B1%CF%84%CE%BF%CE%BB%CF%8C%CE%B3%CE%B9%CE%BF.docx?dl=0
                Thank you for your help.
Happy and safe

vs2015

vs2015

 

Mount Hamilton Quick Ride

:wheel:Motorcycle is in work progress, but I use it whenever I can. Have a safe and enjoyable riding season for 2015, see you all out there. This video should make you feel the need to ride. Thank you, Michael

98vfr800i

98vfr800i

 

First Pics

Got myself a VFR800 VTEC. Couldn't be much more stock. Gonna add to it from tme to time, anything I do I'll throw up on here

BikerJoe

BikerJoe

Hey!

Hey Everyone!! New guy here,purchased my 2003 VFR800 Interceptor a couple of weeks ago with 15k on it. So far I've had to put on new levers,new windshield and new mirrors with turn signals integrated into them. My seat has a rip in it ,so I'm going to cover it soon with something different from a local leather store. Can't say I've done much riding on it just yet as I'm still in the, "Making it mine" phase. Didn't have the luggage brackets,so I'm selling my hard shell bags. My first bike was a 99 Honda CBR600 some 8 years ago and in between then and now I've owned a large variety of bikes from Harleys to Spyder.I love to ride and love to work on them. Hope there are some guys in my area that I can ride with!!

Dreadman72

Dreadman72

 

My It's Hot...... 40+ C, To Be Exact.

Oh, my Lord, it's hot down here. Anyway...To the chase! It's a given that you have to seal every single part of the engine, before you attack it with bead blast. I did that, and then ground off all the cast marks, just so it'll look great, once back in the bike....Or once the bike is rebuilt around the engine, to be more precise. My thoughts, for this week, as i've been blasting in 42C (107F)??? The oil cooler has an insane amount of plumbing, to get it to where it lives. I have no idea why, to be honest....Therefore, i'll be moving it to a better place, and making it bigger. It'll be directly in front of the crankcase, from now on. I'm starting to see a COG drama unfolding, aswell. I'll be moving the rear two exhausts to the left hand side of the seat cowl, and also moving the battery up there, in the center of the tail, behind my bum. The tail will be a semi monocoque, but I don't think i'll have shed enough weight, even with the relocation of all of the crap that lives up there, and the sacrifice of the rest of the tail framework, to rebalance the bike. I've looked into having two 6V batteries hooked in parallel, but I still don't think i'll be able to put them anywhere better. Maybe a bit, but not enough to really warrant all of the extra wiring that would go with making it happen. Capacitors? Too hard basket.... Leave it where it is? No can do. That real estate's now taken by the back two exhausts. I'm starting to get the impression that you all think this is "pie in the sky' kinds stuff, and I don't blame any of you for thinking that. So, in a nutshell, here's the deal, as far as the redesign of this bike. I'd love to call it a rebuild, but it's not strictly a 'rebuild', by any means. I bought this bike to fix and ride, but I was fooling myself. I've never been very good at just fixing stuff. I can spot a design shortcut a mile away, and this bike has a few of them, to say the least. It's well built.....Don't get me wrong. It's built to a price, and a strict design regime, though. Honda, nor any other manufacturer, makes any money by hand finishing, or using anything better than the material that will fulfill the task. Nor will they get anywhere by making something that's out of reach of their perceived audience. It's a fact of life. I use to own, in a different life, a Ducati 1098S. Now there's a bike that doesn't hold back....Price? What's money? Technology? Yeah...., put a bit more optical fibre into it.....For $38,000.00 they'd want to push the technological boundaries. This bike...No. You have to do it yourself, if you want something special. And that's what i'm going to do. It'll be no match for a 1098S, but it'll be special, none the less. I'd like to hear your thoughts....Good and bad. Nothing ever happened, by good men staying silent. I'm looking forward to some sort of feedback..........Good or not so good.

criticalmass181

criticalmass181

This Is Gold!

How's this for a good start? Keep in mind, this engine is over 200,000 kilometers old. I started into it, over the weekend, and was going to go to town on it. Something this old SHOULD be showing signs of wear, right? It'd be in need of major work.....right? Well.....no, actually. The next time someone says to you that your VFR is getting a bit long in the tooth, keep this entry in mind. The cam lobes are literally unmarked. All of the warranty yellow marks are uncracked, and there's no real need to go any further, as far as i'm concerned. If I were made of money, i'd go for it, regardless....but i'm not. There are much better things to blow my hard earned on, than speculative rebuilding. The engine has no pair valves (none, as in the castings are left unmachined.), so that's off the list. The carbs are perfect, and all I need to do is hit the whole thing with some glass bead, to make it all shiny, and that's about that, for this bit. If it ever goes pear shaped, i'll drop it back out of the bike, and play with it then. For now, though, why fix something that isn't broken?

criticalmass181

criticalmass181

 

Back On The Horse

Short version. Ride to work and back on the Daytona last Friday. OMG IT FELT AWESOME to be back in the bike. LONG VERSION. so I spent the week testing my sitting position on the Daytona. It was so tempting with it there in the garage. Doc hadn't given me the all clear but Wednesday afternoon I started her up and headed out. I got down the drive and then pulled my leg up to the peg. That didn't work and there were a lot of weird aches around the knee. I let my leg hang and wobbled back to the garage, defeated. But I couldn't leave it there so the next day I got back on and spent about twenty minutes riding around the neighborhood. The knee is really stiff but not painful. This gave me the confidence to ride in on Friday. The ride in was great. A sunny fresh morning on the open road (work is halfway to the next town along some country roads). I stretched the leg out a couple of times. The way home was more sore - enough that I was nervous I had ripped something open. I got home safely and hoped I hadn't set things back at all. Saturday I saw the Doc and was given the all clear to use my leg fully. So no harm done. It is obvious that I really need to work the leg or it's going to lose a big chunk of range of motion. I have already restarted my fitness and will get back on the bike and the push bike to sort out the leg. Being back on the bike is so amazing :)

Frogfoot

Frogfoot

 

Down To The Lump.......finally!

This is what it looks like, when you get to the start of things.......Well, almost the start of things. Most of the engine will be going back into the bike. I'm still tossing up weather it's worth going too much deeper into it. Maybe a hone, and a port job, but just maybe. It DID take alot to get it to this stage, so i'll see how I feel as things progress. My first missions are to replace the steering head bearings with conical items.....but that'll only be once I decide which front end i'm going with. For a bike that has so much potential, and so much weight, i'm surprised that Honda went with such a (reputedly) limp front end. In any case, I was completely taken aback, when I got to the point where there was just an engine and frame. There's less weight in the package than i'd have thought. I'm well aware that there are a hell of a lot of things that will bring the weight back up, but these are the bits that MUST be light to start with. If the core of anything is heavy, then it'll be heavy, no matter what you do to trim the fat off it. I've set a goal to get down to 190 kilo's half wet. For those not familiar with the term, that's with all fluids, minus fuel. The 'curb weight' is 236 kilo's ( 520 lbs). I'd say, at a guess, that 16 kilo's of that would be fuel. So.., 30 kilo's off????? Just the muffler weighs 6.2 kilo's. I'd say that all of the rubber shielding, metal brackets, center stand, obsolete wiring harness parts (wait and see...), huge dash, fuel level indicator, bar end weights, useless tool kit, plastic inserts, and constant overuse of massive bolts that hold tiny parts. Really....they're everywhere...There are, at least six M10X25 bolts holding absolutely nothing...All that would have to be worth another 15 kilo's, at least. 30 kilo's? A challenge, but not an unrealistic goal, I reckon.

criticalmass181

criticalmass181

 

At The End......and The Start, All At Once.

Here we are, finally. A bare frame, and alot of ideas. I spent the entire day making up tooling to remove the adjustable inserts for the frame, and finally managed to extract the lump for the perimeter. I don't think there's anything more exciting than a blank canvas. And this about as blank as stuffs get. There's some cleaning up....well......LOTS of cleaning up, to do. I'm actually already looking at a way to make the battery a bit better balanced...with a capacitor setup, and a couple of 6 volt batteries, in series, so I can put them in better places. Why???? Because the exhausts are going to go through where the battery was..... There's a lot of engineering to come...and all of it will be by the seat of my pants....with some good ol' engineering calculations, to get me by. Hell of a ride to come.

criticalmass181

criticalmass181

I'm Honda Something Good..... See What I Did, There.....?

Enough tomfoolery...... This is serious! I've made some discoveries, in the last few weeks. Number one....You should never undo the inlet hose to the oil cooler, and walk off. So much oil. So much mess.... Secondly....You should never EVER pretend that you're doing one thing, when you know you're going to do the complete opposite. As i've pulled the old girl down, i've been taking notes....making simple drawings....measuring stuffs. I'm sure that onlookers would be horrified to know, and see, that the entire bike is in boxes, and completely disorganized. There's literally just a pile of crap in the middle of the shed. And that particular pile of crap is mixed in with other piles of crap. I'm not fussed, as I know where everything goes. There's only two places for it all to go, in fact. The bin, or E Bay..... If you've been having a look at my posts, and are interested, please keep on looking. I'm a week away from starting the rebuild. I can assure you that you'll see things that you've never thought possible from an average guy. Some of my plans and modifications may even spur you on to do something similar. I'm no rocket scientist, but I have a firm mechanical and engineering background, can fibreglass, vacuum mold, pattern make, and majored in industrial design. I'm already seeing this project as a finished bike. I like what I see in my minds eye. When it's done, it may not be your cup of tea....But i'm sure you'll look at it, and see that it's a better VFR than it's maker had ever reckoned on. Oh....The bike in the picture? It's my Sons FZR 250. A warm up, for the real deal.......

criticalmass181

criticalmass181

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