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zupatun last won the day on August 10 2019

zupatun had the most liked content!

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About zupatun

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    World Superbike Racer

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  • Location
    Haymarket, VA
  • In My Garage:
    2000 VFRi 800 (Honda Hawk Metallic Grey)
    2018 Yamaha XSR700 (Rasberry Red and Atomic Silver)

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  1. I have large hands. Not a huge, but not a small person either (6'1"). I reach in, and replace by feel...dont remove anything to get access. Matt
  2. Looks like a trackday bike to me! Sweet buy! Just a little jealous.
  3. Hi zupatun, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  4. I have made my own custom fit earplugs, and they work OK, but in my new helmet the depth of the speaker slots is shallow and they get shoved into my head...my ear canals actually bleed...which sucks. So I've switched back to foam. Also my left ear canal is much narrower than the right... I've used these from Surefire in the past. They are relatively shallow, but do an OK job of sound attenuation. The nice thing is they don't sit too deep into the ear canal and the outer ring holds them in place. Not sure they will pull out or stay in putting a helmet on, but I don't think they are super expensive to try. https://www.surefire.com/ep3-sonic-defenders.html ou can see they have different sizes...I would order a Large and a Medium set and mix and match to get my left ear fit better.
  5. No Frankenfork for me. I used 6th gen triples, F4i forks, fender and calipers with my 5th gen wheel. Matt in Haymarket.
  6. F4 and F4i forks are not the same. F4i forks total length are shorter than VFR forks. Also, the brakes from your VFR and fender wont work either. The F4 ('99-'00) forks are indeed 795 mm in length to the VFR's 800 mm (funny that). The F4i forks are 785 mm. The end result is that the fork tubes sit about 10 mm below the handlebar top edge, but more than enough for the bolt to clamp, the handlebar-to-fork mount being 33 mm in height. VFRworld threads are where I started my research: https://vfrworld.com/threads/vf4ir-the-project-begins.20085/ And https://vfrworld.com/threads/vfr800-5th-generation-a-gearhead’s-delinking-brake-saga-and-the-interceptor-ss.3617/ Matt in Haymarket
  7. I remember the tab/bodywork nightmare that was my 4th gen...but it was a lovely bike til someone hit me... Your work looks exemplary! Matt in Haymarket.
  8. It doesn't bubble. It will soften and you can bend it. It is hard to get it evenly to higher temps because its thermal conductivity is low. Good thing about that is you can heat (sort of) select areas with a temp controlled hot air gun to move it into position. I've done this...but it takes a while for a large area to cool into shape. However cooling can be hastened with a damp shop rag or squirt bottle/misting with water to set or fix the shape. Gloves may be needed...but will leave an imprint in anything soft. Matt in Haymarket
  9. Plasti-fix, Plasti-Aid, Plasti-Weld all give you the option of making or repairing parts, but can require some skill at fashioning/forming missing parts... https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22655 I've used ABS glue to fill/glue thin cracks and it works well. I've used ABS glue to weld on a backing/reinforcement of ABS onto a part to strengthen it. I've also used ground up ABS with ABS glue to do the same. The most successful and simple method I've used is employing a temperature controlled soldering iron to melt ABS to repair cracks, along with ground up ABS and larger ABS parts to fix, fill and reinforce ABS. The welding of ABS with a soldering iron is probably one of the best ways, because you're keeping the material properties essentially the same, not relying on a chemical bond between two different materials. ABS does not easily crystallize, unlike other polymers, with applicaiton of heat and welding. As long as the temperature is not too hot, it will weld and regain most of it's strength and resiliency. Just my two cents. There are plenty of ABS welding "How To" videos on YouTube if you want to decide if that's a rout you might need. It is difficult to replace parts with ABS welding. That's better done IMO with the above products. BUT repairing cracked or broken pieces and quickly reinforcing them, Welding with a soldering iron is fast, effective and cheap. Matt in Haymarket
  10. most excellent. Can't wait! Matt in Haymarket
  11. If I was just doing trackdays I'd just buy someone's twins race/trackday SV650. Handles similarly. I've added a Nitron rear twin clicker, Matris cartridges up front, aftermarket rearsets and woodcraft type handle bars. With the lower bars it sits very similar to my 2000 VFR. Torque is abundant for a small motor...and the light weight doesn't hurt. It is so much less ponderous than the VFR at slow speeds...It is my around town bike...love hearing up and heading out. Matt
  12. I've gone the other way. My run-around bike, and trackday bike is a Yamaha XSR700. it's small...reminds me of a Standard version of my old SV650 in my profile pic...but looks cooler IMO. I have a trackday setup for the bike too...much better than the VFR...over 100lb lighter..made my own CF fairing...needs tweaked.
  13. Excellent...I think it goes to figure that the aluminum carriers are easily tweaked...putting the steel rotor out of true...not necessarily an easy fix...but easier on the wallet to fix.
  14. Looks like you'd need to do a de-link to the 2000, and use the CBR wheel as well (whole front end). Wondering what the Gemoetry looks like compared to 5th Gen Stock? https://www.motorera.com/honda/h0800/intercep.htm CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES Suspension: Front: 41mm HMAS cartridge fork with stepless spring preload adjustability; 4.7 inches travel Rear: Pro-Arm single-sided swingarm with Pro-Link-mounted, HMAS gas-charged shock with 7-position spring preload and stepless rebound damping adjustability; 4.7 inches travel Brakes: Front: Dual 296mm disc with LBS three-piston calipers Rear: 256mm disc with LBS three-piston caliper Tires: Front: 120/70ZR-17 radial Rear: 180/55ZR-I7 radial DIMENSION Wheelbase: 56.7 inches Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3' Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches) Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3' Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches)
  15. The 5th Gen version of the ground block is a luminescent Orange instead of yellow. I had this problem the past week. I put OxGuard on the connnector cap/contacts and it helped make the intermittent problem away. So, I re-wrapped the connector block with electrical tape (3M Super 88) and buttoned her up. A couple days later I loaded her up to head out for a Ride (Last Friday) and meet friends 5 hours away...lo and behold --- 20 miles out I had an intermittent fault and then the bike stalled at a stop light the next town ahead...BIKE WOULDN"T START! pushed her across the street into a nearby neighborhood (on the edge of the next town) and parked it discreetly behind the neighborhood sign. Called my wife, picked me up I got the trailer and drove back. Just for S&Gs I thumbed the starter button brought her home in a couple hours. I opened her up checked the Stator, Checked the battery, checked the RR and everything looks good. Take the connector off again...look for burnt ground wire connections...nothing. Lo and behold she starts right up!!!! NO FI LIGHT! I'm back on the road by 3:30--only 5-1/2 hours to go to a nice fire, dinner and friends to ride with the next day! Rain starts 20 miles North...temps drop, and by the time in Northern PA the temp is 40F...and fog, oh, didn't I tell you it SNOWED earlier in the day...I missed it by leaving late! My buddies direct me to my cabin (sweet PA state park cabin!) so we aren't camping in the coooooold rain...put my chair in front of a roaring fire, they put dinner in my lap, drink in hand and life is GOOOOOD...NO FI light the whole trip up to PA! Next morning -- get up for breakfast at Forksville General Store...FI Light...intermittent then on the whole dang ride!!! crap. I'm not going to strand my mates on the ride so I spend the whole day in camp working on the bike and doing some local hikes...I figure that if I can't get it fixed I'll ride back with a buddy on Sunday and we'll deal with the issues on the way home! Button her up...we have enough butt connectors and wire to do a temporary grounding fix...but I'd rather wait til I can find a AutoZone or Home Depot to find the proper stuff...BUT I start the bike after eveyone gets back to show them the issue and the DAMN FI light goes away and stays away the whole Sunday ride home!!! Needless to say, I'm soldering and grounding this coming weekend after i get home from my business trip...AND I'm buying a FZ-09 FAH0029 Mosfet RR just for peace of mind too...and maybe even a new battery! Matt Roth
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