zupatun

these rotors aren't "warped" so to speak...the carriers are about 4mm thick stamped aluminum...and I've seen people hit curbing with them and bend hte carriers...whether they are "fragile" or not the carriers are pretty standard for japanese bikes and most people just plop down money as they have no way/idea on how to fix the issue. I've had these on the bike for 9 years and I got them REALLY bent second hand. BUT they had more meat on them than the stockers which had 76k miles on them. So, I swapped, bent and got them back into true. I probably bent tthem trying to break the bead (I do my own tires)...when the rim slipped a little on my bead-breaker--applying about a shit-ton of my weight on a lever trying to break the bead...a not so gentle treatment of the rotor/tire carrier. IF I look at the run-out--the data shows it to be out of plane--I'm just bring the disk all into alighment with the rotatioary plane of hte wheel.

Right hand side as-is: and with gentle persuasion:

Left side as-is: and with Persuasion:

Left rotor had about 7mils runout (0.007") and Right had about 6 mils runout. Afterward the Left is at +/-1mil runout and the Right around max 1.5mils runout. I'll ride this morning to check if the shudder I was experiencing braking is improved or not. IF NOT I'll be checking he head bearings and make sure the nut is torques correctly...if the shudder is gone I'll know I most likely bunged the rotors last couple times I changed tires. Matt

I must have tweaked my carrier putting a tire on last year. I keep noticing it under hard braking...so it must not be too much. Putting the dial indicator on a stand and checking runout as I type. I'll post some numbers shortly.

Anyone know what color code and name of this orange?

Hi zupatun, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Excellent...I think it goes to figure that the aluminum carriers are easily tweaked...putting the steel rotor out of true...not necessarily an easy fix...but easier on the wallet to fix.

Looks like you'd need to do a de-link to the 2000, and use the CBR wheel as well (whole front end). Wondering what the Gemoetry looks like compared to 5th Gen Stock? https://www.motorera.com/honda/h0800/intercep.htm CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES Suspension: Front: 41mm HMAS cartridge fork with stepless spring preload adjustability; 4.7 inches travel Rear: Pro-Arm single-sided swingarm with Pro-Link-mounted, HMAS gas-charged shock with 7-position spring preload and stepless rebound damping adjustability; 4.7 inches travel Brakes: Front: Dual 296mm disc with LBS three-piston calipers Rear: 256mm disc with LBS three-piston caliper Tires: Front: 120/70ZR-17 radial Rear: 180/55ZR-I7 radial DIMENSION Wheelbase: 56.7 inches Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3' Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches) Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3' Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches)

My 2000 has 97K miles...I'm 245lbs, ride with full bags and get 40-42mpg in touring mode.. On gas in the twisties 32-36mpg.

1% HF and 12% HNO3 by weight could be painted on the welds...dipping the whole thing may not be necessary...

A lot of people used to think "made in Japan" meant junk...because at one time it was...nothing is static except death and taxes. Heck, even the Cleveland Browns won a game!

I fitted a chain oiler almost excactly like this dude, but I bought a cheap Chinese brake fluid resevoir for $14 (made very well IMO), some fuel line, a primer bulb for a two-stroke chain saw and it now oils my chain from the underside poking through my chain slider 8-10" before it hits the countershaft sproket instead of the rear sproket. Less fling and simple as pie. This video explains it. The bulb sits near my right thumb...NOT MY VIDEO...