Dutchy

A good 3 seasons later

Rode with a group of former colleagues yesterday. Most have a Beemer, with a "Henri Ford" color scheme... "My little puma" had to rev hard to compensate for her lack in torque....

Pass!!!

Motorcycle shop nearby had "Benelli demo days" and with me never turning down a free ride..... Benelli, founded in 1911 and started building mc's in 1921. These days though, it is probably best called Chinelli , as the bikes are 100% Chinese. That is, if your name is Trump and/or you like staring at your belly button. For truth be told, it is a well designed and build motorcycle. Factor in the price and you're on a winner if you donot expect eye popping perfomance from the wee twin. I got her up to a ton and that was it . The engine is a peach, picking up smootlhlt from low revs, even if you are too high a gear. Suspension, handling braking al "A" OK! This TRK was brandnew (27km on the clock) and I reckon the gearbox could do with a proper break in period 1st.... Shifting from 2 to 3 somethimes was not happening (irrespective of lever pull full in or not). Or it was just my inexperience with riding a mc? The shop took note and would keep an eye/ear on it with future riders taking her out. Rear brake could do with a bit more bite (bike has ABS), again it would have been wiser to ride the bike themselves first for a few 100 clicks....

TBH, I intended to never ever have valve lifter clearnances checked on my 4th gen. But as she was with a forum mechanic anyway (we were goonna attempt to fit a 3rd gen exhaust system), ach why not. At 90,000km just ONE was out of spec (just a tad too wide). In your situation you'll need to look in another city since your loacl dealer is a POS.... You could consider "what is the cost of the service versus the cost of a used engine should things go wrong?" With 4th gen engines as cheap as 250 bucks, it was a no brainer for me.

If you like, I can ask around here in NL for a 2nd hand collector if your stateside search doesnot come up Trumps

Ah! And now the thruth comes out..... an aftermarket electrickerythingie!!! 😱

Holy cow Batman!!!!! Thank F u are unscaved...

Hunter gatherer in his natural habitat, scouring The Land for some of the last 2019's white gold....

What Bent said...

Went to pick up a few shirts in town, the long way round Stopped at a market for some fresh rolls and slices of fenugreek cheese

Surpased here by hipsters buying "bobbers" or "scramblers" and "look ma, I'm an idiot" buying (KTM) motards to wheelie around town....

Ah! That RR indeed doesnot look like a OEM VFR one! The "YELLOW" wires appear PURPLE so with the engine heated up well (the altenator gets "cooled"with engine oil, so as the oil heats up, its cooling properties diminish), shut down the engine, set your multimeter to Vac, unplug the RR (the white plug) and start your engine. then measure over the combination of 2 purple wires. Best if you can keep the multimeter propes in so you can rev the engine to say 5000rpm. Write down the measurements you get from each reading.

The RR is the voltage regulator. The altenator in the engine (under the round cover on the left hand side) produces alternating current, Vac. Like the stuff coming from a wall socket. The engine needs direct current Vdc. So the RR converts Vac into Vdc. As the engine revs up, the Vac level increases. As the battery doesnot like >15Vdc very much, the RR will have to "get rid" of excess. It does so by generating heat. So if the RR and/or the altenator is faulty, it will have an impact on the electric circuits.... As the engine heats up it impacts the altenator and RR.

A shakedown spin was needed All's well again 😄