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JZH last won the day on June 8

JZH had the most liked content!

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About JZH

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    International Bodger
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  • Location
    London, UK/So. Cal., USA
  • In My Garage:
    6 VFRs, an RVF, an ST, 2 CBRs, an RS and an SXV

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  1. There's more to it than that. The critical measurements here are the axle diameter and the width of the hub. The OD of the 6th and 8th gen discs is different, but there may be other OEM disks with the same OD and different ID which would work? My info says that the 6th gen wheel has a 62mm ID and 296mm OD, btw; I don't know about the 8th gen, but VFR750F3 says it has 94mm x 310mm disks. 62mm x 310mm is the OEM size for the CBR900RRW-X (98-99), although the offset is 21.5mm. The CBR1100XX has 62mm x 310mm as well, with an 18.5mm offset (also used on the X-11 and early
  2. Unfortunately, a drill bit may very well spin, too... So, before you get all medieval on it, try using an impact ratchet/rattle gun and a long Allen key to loosen it (again). The problem is that the lower valve body you're screwing into (or out of) is not anchored to anything within the fork, so it can spin within the cartridge. The impact-type wrench usually manages to jolt it free when conventional tools just spin. Be careful with the Allen key, however, as the OEM M8 cap screw is the "shallow head" type, so it is easier to round it out than with a normal screw: Make sure it i
  3. A thought re your thought: the OP should ascertain whether the bike's current sprockets are in OEM sizes--people sometimes gear down with aftermarket sprockes, which raises the RPM used in "normal riding". Ciao, JZH
  4. Many people fit extra-loud Stebel Nautilus air horns. They can be challenging to fit, but the plastic horn part can be separated from the metal compressor part if necessary. (That's what I did on my FP, but I can't remember where I put the plastic part...) Personally, I wouldn't bother replacing an OEM disc horn with another disc horn! Ciao, JZH
  5. Yes, Honda does that, too; the "MV9" visible on the outer housings in the photos above refers to the 1992 CBR600F... Ciao, JZH
  6. I've re-painted covers before, and I did it by removing them, then stripping off the old paint with chemical paint stripper, then spray painting them. If you tried to do the job in situ you could only really spray over the old paint. Removing covers is not difficult, but there's oil behind them, so it's best to remove them during an oil change. Gaskets can rip, so have new ones on hand. The Honda Workshop Manual shows you what you need to do, as does the Haynes manual. Ciao, JZH
  7. I've pulled several VFR exhaust studs using the "seized nut removal method". I've found that to be a good time to replace the studs with stainless versions. Something like these: (£20 on eBay UK) But not like these: I seem to recall reading somewhere that the un-threaded portion in the middle is necessary in order to attain the benefit of using a stud, rather than a screw, in a fastening application. However, that OEM Honda VFR750 studs are made with the gap is enough for me: Unfortunately, I've never see
  8. The part number is probably 24701-MZ7-000, but I've always found the OEM RC36 gear change levers to be a bit ugly. The forged alloy levers from other Hondas are nicer and may still work (depends on your boot size and if you've got rearsets, maybe. Many of them have the same spline, so they bolt on. I think I've got a 5th gen lever on my 3rd gen: Ciao, JZH
  9. After once filling my garage with aerated brake fluid (which seemingly found itself onto every painted and plastic surface in there), I never, never, never use air in connection with hydraulic systems. YMMV, but I think you're going to have to re-assemble the system, fill it with fluid and do it that way. Ciao, JZH
  10. To help others, the blank many people have used for some of the Monokey cases is ILCO X132. Or ILCO X226. On US eBay, masterslocksmith sells the X226 specifically as a blank for the V46 and E52 cases. But the reason I mentioned the codes was because someone might have an extra one laying around--when I last looked into this there didn't seem to be that many different codes. Ciao, JZH
  11. I had understood that weight wasn't the reason HRC went with the double-sided swing arm--it was the geometry changes induced by the axle moving around in an arc when the chain/sprocket is adjusted. Ciao, JZH
  12. It's not an OEM paint color, so it's whatever Dan had available, I imagine! Ciao, JZH
  13. Well, a bit late now, but don't all GiVi lock cylinders have the key codes etched onto the face of the cylinder? It's the same code stamped into the keys. Mine all do, but they're all pretty old by now. Ciao, JZH
  14. I've thought about doing the double-sided swing arm conversion on my NC35, to the extent that I once bought a couple of extra 400cc swing arms to try (but, er, never did). I do have the JHA (I think it is) double-sided carbon exhaust, which of course is an absolute requirement. But as the Lucky Strike RC45 pics show, the HRC swing arm is distinctive, with its internal bracing welds visible on the outside. I haven't seen any OEM swing arms with that "look". Of course, how hard would it be to get someone to weld a surface bead on each side of it... Ciao, JZH
  15. OEM fork seals seem to work the best. Ciao, JZH
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