JZH

The potential problem is not the length of the forks, but the height of the lower triple clamp bolts when the triple clamp is mounted into the frame. Below are pics of CBR929 and SP1 (RC51) lower triple clamps: The RC36 fairing bracket is in a fixed position, so if there's a conflict with the triple clamp, either the bracket must be modified or the triple clamp can be swapped for one that doesn't interfere with the fairing bracket. My VFR1200 lower clamp is flat, like the 929 clamp, but there are only a few bikes with the same 35mm offset, so I didn't have the option of swapping lower triples. You may not have the same problem--maybe the 5mm difference in offset avoids it? All of the triples mentioned above hold the forks 214mm apart (as opposed to the RC36's original 192mm fork spacing), so it's a tight fit, and you may lose some "steering lock" (maximum distance the handlebars can be turned from side to side). You'll have to experiement... This is a picture of Miguel's (TheStig) bike. I don't recall which triple clamps he's using, unfortunately. Ciao, JZH

Hi Jurjen, I'm fitting VFR1200 triples and VTR1000-SP1 forks to my '93 VFR750FP, mainly for the 35mm offset (OEM is 40mm; the usual CBR/VTR offset is 30mm), but I had to bash in (modify) the front fairing mount to clear the lower triple clamps. I haven't tried fitting the 30mm offset triples, but they have the same fork spacing, so I'd be surprised if they would fit without modification. This photo is hard to understand, but the view is looking down the left fork (blue top cap), and I'm trying to show the black lower triple clamp clearing the modified fairing bracket. I've heated and bashed-in the steel tubing to make it "thinner". I've also cut down the mounting flange where it attaches to the frame (to allow the forks to turn as far as they can go--which is until they hit the frame!) TheStig (in Japan) has fit SP1 forks to his RC36-I, but I think he did not have this problem because he used the "gull arm" SP1 lower triple clamp that does not interfere with the fairing bracket. I'm aware of people using 929/954 forks and triples on RC36-I models, but I'm not sure if they also encountered clearance issues or not. Good luck! Ciao, JZH

Yes, and I should mention that the outlet was cut down slightly to match the TBR's length, and to keep the link pipe from sticking out too much. I'm hoping to get in on the second 5th/6th gen production run, assuming my finances then allow! Ciao, JZH

Nah, take the spare engine apart, rebuild it with fresh parts and balance and "blueprint" it. Then swap engines. Ciao, JZH

Same stupid answer they've given for, what, the last ten years? Better solutions are out there. Ciao, JZH

Don't put it where mine is! It barely fits in that location. (This is an Erion, btw.) Ciao, JZH

I have a Throttlemeister on my ST1300, but I have never really got on with it. It does work and looks very nice. But what I've used on many bikes for ages is the venerable Vista Cruise (twin-cable model) plastic lever. Damned simple, and works great--once you get it adjusted correctly. I find the locking and unlocking action to be extremely natural and (unlike the Crampbuster) unlikely to interfere with the throttle when you're not using it. And, of course, unlike the Crampbuster, it actually locks the throttle! Ciao, JZH

The General Information sections in the front of the Honda Workshop Manuals are the most reliable specification data I know of--certainly for Honda comparison purposes. The Workshop Manuals contain very little part number data (only for things like special tools), so you also need to have access to the Parts Manuals or microfiche (or what used to be on microfiche!), but those contain very little specifications data (other than things like o-ring and seal dimensions). I don't think Lorne meant that all such questions could be answered by reference to the Honda manuals. But some, like M/C and brake piston sizes, can be. As you note, different part numbers could refer to many different things, such as paint colour, mounting tab positioning--or to completely different internal designs or incompatible fitments. Sometimes you just have to get the parts in-hand and get out the digital calipers. That's what I had to do to acquire my triple clamp data--thank you eBay!

Depending on age, all VFRs are likely to suffer from electrical problems. Specifically, charging issues. If you have a voltmeter, and the seller's permission, you could test the bike's charging system before you buy it. What usually happens is that the seller has experienced a charging problem, tried to fix it by fitting various new components, but failed, and is then selling the bike! Also, the charging problem often does not occur when the reg/rec is cold, so the tests really have to be done after a test ride, when the reg/rec is nice and hot. Ciao, JZH

Yes, that makes sense. And saves me from having go out and look at the NC35 in my garage... Ciao, JZH

Monokey is the one you (probably) want. Ciao, JZH

I was thinking: you could also do a long loop. instead of a short bend? It's just vacuum... Ciao, JZH

There aren't any Monolock side cases; that is strictly a top box system (but interchangeable with other Monolock cases and racks). The vast majority of GiVi cases and racks are Monokey, but ISTR there is one GiVi side case system that looks like the Monokey, but has a different spacing between the two posts/slots. But, I've never had it in my hands, so I'm just going on what someone was saying online... Ciao, JZH

Yes, because it is the rubber stem that degrades over time, not the o-ring seal. If your valve stem isn't made of rubber, there's no problem that needs periodic "solving". Ciao, JZH

The part numbers for accessories are often not included in the Parts Lists for the bikes, but they are usually noted in the installation instructions for the accessory itself. But, as you have learned, getting the part number isn't the entire battle... Ciao, JZH