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JZH

Member Contributer
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JZH last won the day on November 24 2016

JZH had the most liked content!

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About JZH

  • Rank
    International Bodger
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  • Website URL
    http://www.vsource.org
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Profile Information

  • Location
    London, UK/So. Cal., USA
  • In My Garage:
    6 VFRs, an RVF, an ST, 2 CBRs, an RS and an SXV

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I no longer get the error, but I see very few "new posts". Has forum activity dropped off due to the issue with the certificate? Ciao, JZH
  2. JZH

    4th gen Coil on Plug mod (split thread)

    I'm afraid that bike hasn't run with or without the COPs... ISTR some discussion somewhere involving the way the coils were wired, on different Hondas, and lost sparks, which could explain why the COPs have different resistance ratings. Good luck with your testing! Ciao, JZH
  3. JZH

    my yellow VFR

    The side fairings were never re-installed, as I was still troubleshooting the PCV (which doesn't work...), so I was riding it without. Might get to ride it again in a few weeks. Ciao, JZH
  4. Unfortunately, I was not successful in finding that thread (it may have been deleted entirely, which would be a shame). I wanted to find that guy's cat emoji and make it Greg's avatar--ha ha ha. (Hacking Invision forums is one of my least well known IT skills.) Ciao, JZH
  5. I haven't measured, but I'm pretty sure that the caliper mounting lugs are not centred, so if you use the right on the left, you would have to add spacers for the caliper as well (which is not a place where I'd really want to add spacers and longer bolts, personally). You can change just the main front brake lines right now, and reap most of the benefits that flow from fitting new brake lines. The brake lever is connected directly to the two outer pistons on each front caliper, so if you disconnect all of the DCBS stuff you can ignore the middle pistons in the front caliper. To stop the SMC from functioning, fit a 1-2mm stainless steel plate to the existing bolts, thus locking the SMC and the caliper bracket in place. Then you would have a bodged-but-functional, conventional two-piston front caliper front braking system. To use the two "extra" pistons as well would mean having to deal with drilling the calipers or looping the lines and swapping the master cylinder--probably not worth the effort. However, because it would no longer be connected to the SMC, the rear caliper would require a new rear master cylinder (from a CBR600F4i, I believe). Or swap the forks, as mentioned above (but the same rear caliper changes would have to be made). Ciao, JZH
  6. JZH

    Headlight question

    You can check the part numbers online (cmsnl.com or bike-parts.fr, to name two), but on other models I'm familiar with Honda made two RHS versions (US DOT and non-US) and one LHS version (UK and Australia). Personally, I always check part numbers! Ciao, JZH
  7. JZH

    Replacement fork tubes

    You'd think...but probably not. Forks are one of the components that Honda don't seem to use on multiple models. If they did, the part numbers would be the same, so it would be easy to check this online at Ron Ayers or CMS (I haven't, however). Ciao, JZH
  8. JZH

    Hello from Oxfordshire UK

    Welcome to VFRD, mate! There are still some RC36 owners active on this forum, including a few restoration threads. Ciao, JZH
  9. JZH

    Mystery fork caps

    It's a bit dodgy to use those caps, as you're basically decreasing the clip-on clamping area by half. That would make me uncomfortable, but I'm sure most people experience no problems. However, many VFR riders raise the forks in the triples by 5-10mm for more nimble handling, so if you do that, too, you can ditch the cosmetic caps and get back to full clamping on the clip-ons. Ciao, JZH
  10. That's a pretty big crack... VFRedneck, about your mechanic. Does he work on a lot of Japanese bikes? The only moving part in the entire ignition system is the rotor on the end of the crankshaft, which has raised triggers that magnetically operate the two pulse generators, which then send signals to the spark unit, which in turn sends electricity to the coils, which then fire at the appropriate moment. The system needs electricity to generate spark, not speed. Ciao, JZH
  11. Isn't it just the grey/black wire from the level sensor unit? On the non-US models (which had no low fuel light) they use just two wires on the fuel level sensor (rather than three), one being grey/black and the other being green/black (the ground wire). Ciao, JZH
  12. I believe the Honda H4 bulb has the same dimensions as the regular H4--save for the positions of the tabs--so if regular H4s are put into a headlamp designed for the Honda bulbs the filaments should be in the same positions--provided the process of tab-snipping does not alter the overall position of the bulb. Even a slight tilt relative to the OEM position would likely move the positions of the filaments by 1mm or more. This is also why HID and LED conversions (where just the bulbs are swapped into reflector headlights) are such utter bodges: the "filaments" (or, the light source location) simply cannot be located in the same position(s) relative to the reflector as the H4's precisely located filaments. These conversions do produce a lot of light, but it is no longer cast where the engineers wanted it to go. Whether that's a problem or not probably depends on the specific conversion (and on which side of the headlamp you sit). On some bikes it is fairly easy to re-engineer the headlamp assembly to accept regular H4 bulbs, thus making your own "Euro-spec" headlight. However, on the RC36-I the reflector is smooth and the focusing of the light is done by the glass lens, which may or may not be the same for US and Euro-spec bikes. But it's the same problem if you snip tabs. Anyway, all you need is a Dremel... Ciao,
  13. The main difference between the two filaments in an H4 bulb, apart from their positioning, is that the low beam is shielded internally so that its light hits only the top half of the reflector. Top of the reflector means all of the light is reflected below the middle line of the headlamp, so onto the road and up to the "cut-off", which is roughly at the same height as the headlamp is mounted. The high beam filament is unshielded, so its light hits both the top and the bottom of the reflector, and thus there is no "cut-off" to the beam, all of which is thrown down the road, some above and some below the mounting height of the headlamp. The H4 bulb design, however, is a compromise because, while the two filaments are in different locations, the reflector is in the same position, so the light from each filament (at least in the top half of the reflector...) is reflected slightly differently, depending on which filament is illuminated. I imagine that the reflector engineers, whose job was to direct certain proportions of the light appropriately into different regions in front of the vehicle, probably hated that! Ciao, JZH
  14. I often run one yellow and one white headlamp in my bikes, just for conspicuity. It's usually the same type of bulb, just that one of them has a "French yellow" capsule on it: But there's nothing really stopping you from running a 55/60 on one side and a 55/100 on the other. They don't have to match, but the wires (and switches) do have to be robust enough to handle it. Ciao, JZH
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