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JZH last won the day on July 8

JZH had the most liked content!

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About JZH

  • Rank
    International Bodger
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  • Location
    London, UK/So. Cal., USA
  • In My Garage:
    6 VFRs, an RVF, an ST, 2 CBRs, an RS and an SXV

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  1. It appears to be somewhere near Australia, based on the shipping charge! Ciao, JZH
  2. Hi, welcome! I've viewed the video, but I can't really hear what's happening. I think you may need to simply start taking things apart--if you can get the front wheel off the ground you can check the front wheel bearings and the steering stem bearings at the same time (push, pull, wiggle...). If that seems okay, and you can find nothing wrong, at least you're all set to remove the forks and open them up! Good luck. Ciao, JZH
  3. Lol, this looks like the work of a UK sparky! Who else (well, other than me...) would have stranded mains earth single cable (the green/yellow wire) lying around the shop? Whatever works... Ciao, JZH
  4. I'm just repeating what I've heard, but I believe the HISS ring is just an antenna--all of the programming is contained in the ECU. Ciao, JZH
  5. Well, it'll hold this much: How much more does he need?!? (I'm missing my Yellow Peril,,,) Ciao, JZH
  6. Making it brighter is easy; making it better is not. Ciao, JZH
  7. Yes, particularly because fitting the wrong valve stem can result in rapid deflation of the tire--not something you want happening on the motorway, Ciao, JZH
  8. The OEM yokes have 40mm offset; SP1/CBR has 30mm offset (VFR1200 has 35mm offset). Just a thought. Ciao, JZH
  9. A reflector headlight design doesn't really lend itself to upgrading, but many people are happy with slightly brighter H4 halogens. You can make it worse. Ciao, JZH
  10. Some of that data is correct. Ciao, JZH
  11. Or an SP1 bearing on a CBR stem! The VFR (and CBR) takes a 30x55x17, whereas the SP1 takes a 35x55x14 (and the SP2 something even larger). One of the pioneers of the SP1 front end conversion, Veefer800Canuck I believe, came up with the idea of using steel snap rings to take up the extra 3mm difference in height. It's on the first page of this thread: I think you could accomplish the same thing by using two snap rings in the bottom of the frame, instead of one there and one under the lower stem bearing (or vice versa). But with the CBR lower triple, bearing height is no longer an issue (as it wasn't for my somewhat stalled RC36 SP1 conversion, which uses a VFR1200 lower triple (for a greater offset)). The transponder chip in the key is easily removed from the key. There's probably a way to retain the immobiliser, if you want to. Ciao, JZH
  12. The forks look like SP1 parts, but the only way to tell if the calipers are SP1 is to measure the ODs of the pistons (although this may not make a huge practical difference, it helps to match the master cylinder). Here's some pics of my CBR lower stem--looks like yours, to me. This pic shows the difference between the CBR triple and the SP1 triple--big height difference, but you may not need it. The practical difference is that the clamps grip the forks at different heights (imagine that the lower bearings are at the same installed height, you can see that the SP1 clamps the forks lower down). I don't know off hand if the 5th gen really needs the SP1 lower or not, but it does look pretty cool! More important is probably the top clamp, and that's where you would rather have the 929/954 top clamp, as it means you might be able to fit the clip-ons above the top clamp. SP1 forks are relatively long, so they are the best for maintaining more "VFR-like" ergonomics. Bearing-wise, the SP1 lower has a smaller stem than the SP2, so the bearings are not interchangeable. For the SP1-5th gen conversion you need 32907JR-2 (35x55x14) lower bearings. But the CBR lower triple could use the same bearings as the 5th gen--measure the OD of the two stems. I don't remember for sure, but I think one of the advantages of the CBR lower is that it takes the same bearings as the 5th gen? Ciao, JZH
  13. From this angle the lower triple on the left doesn't look like a gull-arm. Is it? If not, it's not SP1 or SP2, but 929 or 954. Your bike has been converted to use tapered roller bearings; the other stem has OEM-type roller bearings. Ciao, JZH
  14. Having seen it from close to the beginning, I always considered the Joe Rocket brand (for it was primarily an outsourcer) a bit of a joke. But there's a bit more to it than that, according to this 2017 article: https://www.motorcyclemojo.com/2017/08/rocket-man/#:~:text=In order to focus on,selling it outright in 1996. Ciao, JZH
  15. Try https://www.rickoliver.co.uk/ I have a set of Rick's BSP take-offs, which are very nice. I'm not sure if I ever solved the BSP fittings issue before I stopped (temporarily) working on that bike a couple of years ago... Ciao, JZH
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