mello dude

Hi - I have a bunch of these R/R mount plates for 6gen left over.... PM if interested. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95120-6th-gen-rr-mounts-for-fh020aa-and-sh847/

Appologies for another threadjack post but..... @vfrcapn .... so you bought the upgrade parts from Japan source.?.. link to parts?

Suggestion for the R/R fuse circuit... Metripack 630 as in link... http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

I've stepped back from a lot of troubleshooting posting because I'm more of a gotta have my nose in it kinda guy to figure things out,... adding to what everbody said above...jumping in with some notes from the past.... you need to figure out if your charging system meets baseline and with that do this! The Drill-- Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. The stator connector is the number one burn it up connector on the bike. - Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: --- - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. ---- (Looks like you have a new battery so charge overnite) These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery posts get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 12.8 to 13.3v min idle and generally 13.7 to 14.4 ish at revs. (if in the 12s at idle, check at about 1900rpms instead. Its not unusual for the system to be in discharge at idle. ) - I start to get a bit nervous if I see the volts creeping up to the higher 14s and 15s is a no go. -Typically OEM R/R failure for Honda is good volts in the 13s at idle, but will drop to low 13s and even into the 12s at revs. FAIL! (Agree with Danno, whats the battery volts when bike dies?) - Check stator - These tests are done checking the connector that goes to the stator. (Engine off) 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Connector still apart, engine off) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings- (Again, connector apart) @johnscad....OK dude, what are your numbers?

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2001/vfr800fi-a-interceptor

Been running them around 12ish years...first one went 7 years, current one on 5, no signs of giving up yet....I like them and will continue to use them..

That's an interesting project 🤔

Hey all.....I'm out of stock, and the leftovers are scrapish......I have been getting onesie inquiries, but really I would need to make another batch, but that is a chunk of bucks for me to justify one sale... --- If 5 guys would speak up for another batch, then I could go for it. Another wedgie.....US only, postage for Canada has gone whacko...(sry) Beers to all...

Wish Honda would bring it to the US!

Thanks for posting this.....it's a good reminder that mine could stand a "round 3" update/refurb....

Wow...pretty dang impressive, considering how it started out....

I had wondered what happened to your museum piece 4th gen you got last year, beautiful bike....... ......I miss mine.....

VFRW has been definately slowing to a trickle, very few of us check it and post anymore. I look at it out of habit....

CycleTerminal is my favorite goto vendor for things electrical for motorcycles.....

Why not order OEM parts from one of the major large suppliers?...I usually pull up several tabs and look at all of them at once..... RonAyers Partzilla.com ProCaliber Rockymountainatvmc.com Partsfish Throw in favorite......