mello dude

5th gen music!

Apparently you have one of those voltmeters with the red/yellow/green idiot lights. (Not digital?) You just learned how useful that is......... And your wiring mess in your photo, just didn't happened suddenly, it was a degradation over time. ------ So how often in the last say, 5 years have you inspected your system and connectors? Also, when in the last few years have you done the basic check with a multimeter at the battery, engine at revs? -- I'm sure, never. You were riding with a time bomb, and you ended up needing a tow truck..... The truth sucks doesn't it? 😱 _--------_ As far as Rick's goes, reread my first post.

Whats the trick? The phase that technology marches on is still true... There is still a high fall out of the OEM R/R but that doesnt mean 100% will eat it... but I'm not one to wait untill I need a tow truck... It is well known that the connector R/R to stator is the numero uno fail point and best fix is to solder the wires and heat shrink it all together. Really --- @vfrvCO..... you already know the R/R is junk, suggest that you dont buy another Ricks..... Also you may as well do a full charging system test.... "The Drill" -- verify that the battery and stator is good... Current art on the R/R is to replace with a MOSFET or the newer series design by Shindengen.... source is.... www.roadstercycle.com (Part numbers = FH020AA or SH847AA) It is wired direct to the battery and deletes any use of the weak OEM harness for charging.... For grins one more time... a photo of the upgrade to FH020AA

OEM is a cushion front sprocket.....just checked the one I have in my extra parts drawer....it has the same part number you list in your note.

I would start by double checking the master cylinders, sounds like something is obstructing the fluid return on release.

Nick is one of the best and his book sport riding techniques should be read by all motorcylists... BTW ---- https://www.cycleworld.com/blogs/ienatsch-tuesday/ Nick is still... THE man....

@Bubba... also going with Marvelicious....... I imagine if I was a newbie working on bikes, it would be tough to decide to do something non-OEM... So yeah, I'm with you, its a tough slog. Then again you can always come here for help...Everyone here is more than willing to help, as I find out of 6 or 7 motorcycle forums I hit everyday, that this one has the most tech minded motogeek group on the planet. Myself, I started the wrenching journey waaaaay long ago, with a friend that had 4 car garage and cool cars and bikes, and was a neighborhood magnet for bringing over your ride for wrenching and hanging out. Best wishes!

Your symptoms still act like a bad stator leg while hot. Plz do the stator test while hot and gimme data. I don't care what Rick's says.. ...No on the bike numbers... no help. You can't blame the R/R until you confirm the stator is good or bad. And yes, all VFR frames get hot from normal running.

Agree with adding a voltmeter... There are 50 ways to do it, and there is a good thread on "show us your voltmeter install"... I did a search but couldnt find it. With the OEM R/R your gonna need it...

Arclight - great 5th gen example you found there. - There's quite a dedicated following of 5th gens here. (Including me). --> Would love to see a photo of your BSA?

With no numbers, I cant really reply to your post, but I will say I agree with Mavelicious dont replace with OEM and go the aftermarket R/Rs from Roadstercycle and wire direct to battery. - Do the full drill, gimme numbers, then the peanut gallery can advise what to do.

Oh my... RossR ... Thank you for that.... gotta add a few laps at the Nurburgring on a 5th gen to my bucket list!!

Me two. 😀

Yeah I saw that... would be unlucky... or a cheap aftermarket part.. Agree on squirrelmans point too...

Agree with that, no facebook for me either. 😎