MBrane

How many KMs on the bike? Have you tested the stator? If that is an original R/R I would replace it with something from Roadstercycle with the kit that bypasses the stock wiring.. He has a couple different choices based on how you use the bike. I would also recommend a headlight wiring kit from Eastern Beaver to take additional current load off the stock wiring.

This one for me: https://www.roadstercycle.com/Motorcycle voltage monitor.htm Mounted in the upper right corner of the meter cover. Wired to the main feed from the ignition switch. I did mount a small 40mm axial fan on the R/R just for those occasions when I'm idling in hot weather.

Rotate counterclockwise, and pull. Should come right out. Yes you can remove the instrument pod without worry. Probably not a bad idea to clean all the connections while your in there anyway. Just make sure the contact cleaner you use is safe for plastics.

FYI I finally got around to installing my second header on the bike with the Two Brothers muffler. Had to make a shim for it to fit correctly. The mid pipe is dated 5/98. Gonna do a write-up on both bikes soon with pitfalls, and impressions.

Remember the brakes are only linked mechanically. The front is a separate system hydraulically. Master cylinders can be a real bitch to get air bubbles out. Don't "bottom out" the master cylinder. You can damage the seal.

Don't snip the tabs just bend 'em back till they just fit. Then they won't rattle, and destroy the filaments.

Had a R1150RT in the garage for a few years. Great bike to ride other than the riding position (too upright for me), but couldn't wait to get rid of it after having half my tools out dealing with poorly engineered expensive parts. The rule here now is no Euro bikes.

Since that is a friction type lock I would make very certain that it doesn't bind in the off position when the grips are at full heat.

I have the Zero Gravity sport touring screen on one of my bikes. I'm 6'1", and have 1" risers on the bars. Works well for me though it can be a bit noisy sometimes. I think that has more to do with Shoei helmets liking clean airflow.

Broke the end off one of those with a hard old tire so don't crank on 'em too hard. I've run the classic Power front Road rear setup for many years. If it ain't broke......

Here's the last 5th gen Rick's stator with less than 20K on it. When I removed the screw for the hold-down the wires simply fell off.

Been through a few Rick's stators. I buy OEM now. The aluminum output wires on the Rick's are the weak point.

Ignition issue? My ZX600A would do that on occasion. It was the CDI. I kept a spare with me at all times. Not surprising with 25+ year old electronics. First thing to check is all the wiring, and connections to make sure it's not something simple like that.

I have always used standard H4 by simply bending the 2 lower tabs back. Never a problem once I found you don't bend 'em too much just enough to fit. Bend 'em too much, and they'll be loose.

Yes good tip. The shallow, and soft nature of the fairing bolts dictates that you do not use any kind of ball-end or worn allen wrenches/drivers.