MBrane

Don't snip the tabs just bend 'em back till they just fit. Then they won't rattle, and destroy the filaments.

Had a R1150RT in the garage for a few years. Great bike to ride other than the riding position (too upright for me), but couldn't wait to get rid of it after having half my tools out dealing with poorly engineered expensive parts. The rule here now is no Euro bikes.

Since that is a friction type lock I would make very certain that it doesn't bind in the off position when the grips are at full heat.

I have the Zero Gravity sport touring screen on one of my bikes. I'm 6'1", and have 1" risers on the bars. Works well for me though it can be a bit noisy sometimes. I think that has more to do with Shoei helmets liking clean airflow.

Broke the end off one of those with a hard old tire so don't crank on 'em too hard. I've run the classic Power front Road rear setup for many years. If it ain't broke......

Here's the last 5th gen Rick's stator with less than 20K on it. When I removed the screw for the hold-down the wires simply fell off.

Been through a few Rick's stators. I buy OEM now. The aluminum output wires on the Rick's are the weak point.

Ignition issue? My ZX600A would do that on occasion. It was the CDI. I kept a spare with me at all times. Not surprising with 25+ year old electronics. First thing to check is all the wiring, and connections to make sure it's not something simple like that.

I have always used standard H4 by simply bending the 2 lower tabs back. Never a problem once I found you don't bend 'em too much just enough to fit. Bend 'em too much, and they'll be loose.

Yes good tip. The shallow, and soft nature of the fairing bolts dictates that you do not use any kind of ball-end or worn allen wrenches/drivers.

Yes the stator is the main culprit. When it starts to go it puts too much current through the R/R causing it to fail, and then cook the wiring, and the battery. It's the nature of the design that our stators live a hard life of asymmetrical vibes, and high temps. The wiring breaks down eventually especially for those of us that live in high ambient temps, and enjoy high revs. My commuter/touring bike has been gradually losing voltage over the last few months at high RPM. It's about time to pull that left cover off, and see how baked that poor thing is before shit goes sideways.

Your favorite OEM part supplier. I get mine from Rocky Mountain MC/ATV. YMMV.

After test fitting my first header about 10 times so far (I had a clearance issue I will document later) in addition to the above look at the header flanges, and keep them even with the pipe flanges. The crush washers will make up the difference unless the pipes are severely misaligned. I would also recommend thoroughly cleaning your studs, and nuts before assembly. I had one nut that gave me fits. Managed to clean up the threads with the help of multiple cheap bolts, but a tap would have been better. If yours are really nasty you should probably plan on just replacing them. BTW a 50/50 mix of acetone, and ATF is excellent penetrant. PB Blaster is good as well.

Loops are inductive not magnetic. It doesn't matter what type of metal it just has to be close enough to disturb the field. Metal toe sliders come in handy for this because you can set 'em right on the loop.

Exactly. The secondary MC on the LF caliper is what actuates the center piston in the rear caliper. After initial fill of the rear system you must manually work the secondary MC to remove the remainder of the air. It's a bit of pain, but the system will then work as intended.