MBrane

The lugs on the VFR depend on interference with the wheel not clamping force alone. As long as you don't get anti-sieze on the wheel surface of the nuts stock torque is fine. That is if you're not using a Clymer manual as a reference. 45 ft lbs is way too low. Oops.

It depends on the tire. I've run 180 Pilot Road on a stock 4th gen without issue. Pilot Power would be a different story due to the more elliptical profile. I doubt it would be a serious issue, but the handling would be different for sure. Just something to be aware of.

Very interesting! Since I sourced my own gaskets this never occurred to me. I ultimately went with the 41MM gaskets. They may intrude into the flow a bit when crushed, but they are much fatter which means a better seal. I must admit I have been remiss in posting my install experience. Been real busy with other things, but I have to agree that both bikes (48 state, and CA '99s) pull much harder, and have better throttle response. Hoping to get them to the dyno sometime this spring. Thanks again to all who made this happen. Yeah it was a lot of money, but it was F'n worth it!

Could be the starter switch. Seriously. Happened to me once it just needed a good cleaning.

A big hammer makes a nice poor man's impact. I would give the studs/nuts a close inspection for stretching/galling once you get the wheel off. It shouldn't be that tight. Galvanic corrosion could be the culprit. If there is a white-ish coating on the threads, but otherwise OK clean 'em up with a wire brush/wheel, and apply a very light coating of anti-sieze on assembly.

That is too high for the fan. 220 is the upper limit for that IMHO. Running temp is getting into the danger zone at 225. That is unless you like cracking cylinder heads. The fact that it turns on, but late tells me the fan switch sensor is bad. I've seen quite a bit of variation in dash temp readings. Best to confirm with a heat gun near the exhaust port on the head itself and/or at the coolant outlets to the thermostat. Use that info to determine how accurate your dash reading is, and maybe replace that sensor as well. Heat guns are cheap compared to heads.

17/43 Personally I prefer 16 on the front like every other VFR.

How many KMs on the bike? Have you tested the stator? If that is an original R/R I would replace it with something from Roadstercycle with the kit that bypasses the stock wiring.. He has a couple different choices based on how you use the bike. I would also recommend a headlight wiring kit from Eastern Beaver to take additional current load off the stock wiring.

This one for me: https://www.roadstercycle.com/Motorcycle voltage monitor.htm Mounted in the upper right corner of the meter cover. Wired to the main feed from the ignition switch. I did mount a small 40mm axial fan on the R/R just for those occasions when I'm idling in hot weather.

Rotate counterclockwise, and pull. Should come right out. Yes you can remove the instrument pod without worry. Probably not a bad idea to clean all the connections while your in there anyway. Just make sure the contact cleaner you use is safe for plastics.

FYI I finally got around to installing my second header on the bike with the Two Brothers muffler. Had to make a shim for it to fit correctly. The mid pipe is dated 5/98. Gonna do a write-up on both bikes soon with pitfalls, and impressions.

Remember the brakes are only linked mechanically. The front is a separate system hydraulically. Master cylinders can be a real bitch to get air bubbles out. Don't "bottom out" the master cylinder. You can damage the seal.

Don't snip the tabs just bend 'em back till they just fit. Then they won't rattle, and destroy the filaments.

Had a R1150RT in the garage for a few years. Great bike to ride other than the riding position (too upright for me), but couldn't wait to get rid of it after having half my tools out dealing with poorly engineered expensive parts. The rule here now is no Euro bikes.