squirrelman

too ugly for my bikes..................😮

sorry, but i don't know. i would have thought the same, pressed in. on some carbs from other hondas and yamahas, the seat has a similar O-ring but also a screw and tab securing the sear in place, unlike on your RC36. i believe your report is the FIRST on this topic.

try fatter O-ring, but don't try punching the metal as it's brittle and will crack b4 deforming.

try +2 or +3 at rear. smaller front sprocket causes more chain wear. use steel sprocket or expect alloy to need replacement more often, not something a $cotsman would want. 😀

in a word, NO 🙄 But WELCOME to the discussion !

float setting tolerance is about + or - 0.5mm. i wouldn't worry about as you can compensate by resetting float height. not likely a cause of any sudden problems.

you might be able to figure it out after studying the very detailed lubrication flow chart and diagram in the FSM. i dropped a carb clamp nut into a gen2 and had to go in to remove it...............

like grum said, you'll get nowhere without a wiring diagram and observing color codes. in addition, a volt/ohm meter is almost a necessity for doing any serious electrical work.

IF YOU STILL HAD THE BIKE: after you remove the top triple clamp along with the ign switch, you can find the key # stamped on fork lock piece. also on both filler cap and seat release locks. (sorry if this isn't correct on your bike. it's info from a different honda)

the fsm specifies the flow rate. bypass the often-defective pump relay with a wire. FLOW RATE: 800cc/27 US oz/ minute

every one of our VFR's should be recalled for normal electrical failures: Honda had great mechanical engineers but poor to horrible electrical engineers.

nice 3-D-printed copy. $38+$8 shipping in USA squirrelmanxxjerry@outlook.com

no, agnostic. 😮 good writing isn't easy, and choco has it down. lol, anybody that knows me knows i don't have a job 😭......except workin on my bikes.

i'm taking off work for a week so i have time to read the whole story. 😮