squirrelman

good luck finding a shop capable of fixing something complicated.

that's all the Norwegian i know 😛

RAEVA MI VERKER !

unless it's a race bike, alloy sprockets are a poor choice as they wear more than twice as fast as steel.

i the new pump is a cheepo from china, good luck. it won't last long. using fine sandpaper on the points is one way to revive a pump that's been sitting.

test stator ac voltage output at various rpm's first. if that tests OK, then r/r is probably bad. inspect red plug on starter solenoid too. ohmmeter readings on r/r's may not be reliable.

vfrw has a good carb cleaning thread. use proper tools, don't be careless as carbs can be damaged easily. if you want professionally-done work, box the carbs and send them to me, good results guaranteed. i have a set of gen3 carbs just rebuilt with new O-rings and bowl gaskets for sale and ready to go for $300 + $18 shipping.

inspect the sparkplugs to see if too much fuel is getting into cylinders, may be leaky float needle.

unsolvable charging problems can sometimes be traced to the plug atop the starter solenoid, where signs of heat-distress often appear.

carbed bikes start quicker (especially if unridden for a period) with the relay bypassed.

i've bypassed that relay on all my Hondas as it's too unreliable.

best to test compression b4 installing. open valves/seats can corrode during storage.

bad pulser coil will kill 2 cylinders. bad ign coil will kill one. bad cdi can do anything. inspect all plug colors, especially the one on the cool cylinder.

mystery 2 me why anyone with any mechanical experience would pay a shop 2 use a feeler gauge.

it's a mistake to replace a battery b4 you check out the bike's charging system first.