squirrelman

i don't believe that kit works for your carb/s.

^^^ agreed ! i don't see why anyone would want to do that, scrapping a beautiful part.

maybe wires going to front switch have fallen off ? or a defective switch, not very uncommon. as a test you can use a jumper wire to connect together the two wires.

doesn't make sense to replace a battery without checking the charging system output at the same time. a weak charging system may have killed the battery and will do the same to a new one. i always scratch the installation date somewhere on any new battery.

for a smaller, lighter bike the '88-'90 VTR 250 is great, feels just a bit heavier than a bicycle and handles nice. this 250 is not slow, 13,000 redline.

it's risky to have screws out too far as that reduces spring pressure, and screws can vibrate enough to fall out. you need to find and fix the air leak, not compensate with an adjustment.

rear brake caliper most likely needs a rebuild or at least a good cleaning as the piston my not be retracting well. note that some very minor squeaking may be normal but resistance is not.

check to be sure the evap canister doesn't contain any liquid fuel. i suggest you take the problem to VFRW also for possible answers.

as long as it's not using quantities of oil, just ignore it. 🤨 probably valve guide seals.

another interceptor is a whole lot of fun, the Vtr 2 fifty. it's not a slow bike .

JBM

OK u have alot more heat 2 dissipate so overheating will be problem, innit ? on a bike prone 2 run run hot alreadi ??

your clutch won't hold much additional power. Raeva mi verker

so u first say ok and later no ok ? u might have screwedup cap after inspection. test by blowing air into the large black hose on carbs and all slides should rise up.

make sure u run a wire clear through the side holes on the emulsion tubes (main jet holders). if they're partli blocked it will cause a rich mixture. btw: a compression test is a good idea when u have engine problems.