Blackened

Yes on new pads, but the brakes didn't seem as grippy as they had once been before the swap, hence my replacing the pads. That said, the old pads didn't seem to be in bad condition at all. I cleaned, polished and lubed the pins so I don't think that is the problem. Being all three calipers seem to be having trouble I'm still thinking the handlebar MC is the issue. That is the only one that could affect all three calipers. It could be something related to a failed brake like as someone else mentioned, but I don't know how I can check that.

Ah, The drawbacks of a complex braking system. All three calipers are bound up unfortunately. What component do you think would affect all three at the same time? I was thinking maybe it was the front Master cylinder as that would be the one component driving both the front and rear brakes... I could totally be wrong on that (Hence why I'm here) and was hoping to get some feedback on it. I'm going to pull and clean the Master cylinder this evening just for the sake of doing it. Before I do that though I am going to "decompress the brakes and see what pressing the rear pedal does. Thanks for all the responses guys. It's genuinely helping me get to sort out what the root cause is here.

I picked this one up in PA in maybe... 2018 or so. I was informed after the fact it was a respray and confirmed it by checking the paint codes. I had really wanted a yellow VFR anyway so in the end I wasn't too bothered by it. I have no idea why it was painted a different color. It looks like it may have had a tip over or a low speed drop. BIke never gave me an ounce of trouble regardless of speeds ( 🤐 ) so I didn't worry too much. I can't say this is 100% accurate as it is a copy and paste from a different thread but it seems pretty close if it isnt. 6th gen colors available in the US: 2002 - Red with black wheels and silver frame. 2003 - Red with black wheels/silver frame as 02, plus silver with black wheels/silver frame. 2004 - Red but with gunmetal (grey) wheels/silver frame, plus flat asphalt black with black wheels/silver frame. 2005 - Red with grey wheels/silver frame, plus silver with grey wheels/silver frame. 2006 - Pearl white with grey wheels/silver frame, plus pearl black with grey wheels/silver frame. 2007 - Red (darker, with metallic) with grey wheels/silver frame, plus Red/White/Blue anniversary with black wheels/black frame. 2008 - Darker metallic silver than 03 and 05 with grey wheels/silver frame. 2009 - Gloss black with black wheels/black frame. I'm going to pull everything apart, clean and relube just to make sure no stone is left unturned. I'm considering getting rebuild kits for the MC's. They arent all that expensive and it certainly wouldn't hurt to do.

It's a non-ABS bike. once pressure is applied to the brakes it just doesn't let off. I can still move the wheel but it doesn't spin, it has to be forced. They also didn't have a lot of stopping power when I was on the road. I'll see about pulling the calipers off and opening them up so I can test the levers. Man I have definitely not changes the fluid in the last two seasons. Ugh... I love when laziness just creates more work! I think I'm going to disassemble and clean all three MC's and the proportioning valves. Well, that'll teach me for being a slacker..😣

Ha... That would be hilarious if that was the problem. I'll check it out! EDIT: Nope... No such luck. I can see the bubble at the top of the view port. I popped the cover off just to be sure and It's definitely not overfilled.

I have an 02 VFR that I've been riding trouble free for the last 7 years. At the end of last season (That was in November) I noticed the brakes didn't feel all that great, so I swapped out the pads. nothing improved with braking and I realized both front and rear brakes are dragging like crazy. I put it up on the center stand neither wheel seems to turn freely. I pulled all of the calipers off the discs and tested them. The wheels spin as one would expect them to with the calipers off. I bled everything out per the FSM and made sure the pistons on the calipers aren't frozen or anything. I reassembled everything and the wheels still spun fine but once I build up pressure in the system it won't let go. What would cause the entire system ( both front and rear) to just lock up like that at the same time? I know these are linked brakes, but it seems odd to have everything choke at once.

Oh man.... Bingo. Lean Angle, Speed Gas and brake, lap times, and even a track map. THIS is what I want to get together. it's $99. Now the bigger question... Can the VFR deliver this to the unit? the Go Pro itself should be able to get me the speed, lean angle G-meter and laptimes... I'm guessing the EFI will provide what I need for the throttle...

I found this as well. I just don't know what I would need to make it work (Other than a GoPro) and I'm still trying to figure out if it will give me what I am looking for (Lean angle, etc..) https://goprotelemetryextractor.com/ Still looking!

Hey guys, Last year I did my first track day and totally fell in love with it. I've seen videos where guys have all of their telemetry data but for the life of me I can't seem to figure out how they are doing it. I have found all kinds of articles regarding equipment that gets this kind of information but when I try to look into buying one the links are old and outdated. Brain one, PUSH, (etc.) don't seem to be around anymore and I don't see any particularly great mobile apps that would give me this information either. I think there is a way to do it with a GoPro but I'm not sure how to do it or if it will provide me the data I am looking for: Lean Angle Speed RPM Throttle Brake (This is a nice to have I'd be thrilled with a G-meter as well) Is anyone here doing this that might be able to throw me a bone on how to get started? Huge thanks to anyone who can give me a push in the right direction!

Yeah, I'm a bit cheap too. At least when it comes to spending $400-$600 on a seat. That just seems ludicrous to me. I'm sure it makes sense to someone... Probably the guy making the seats.

Thanks for all of the replies guys. Very helpful! I think I'm going to see if I can find someone that does custom work. I do mostly solo riding and really like having the cowl on there. plus for the money we're talking about ($400 and up) I imagine the costs wont be all that much different. Before I go searching though: Really? I was blown away by how comfortable that seat was. I guess I'm comparing it to the stock Honda seat though. It was just a short ride on the sprint (I took it around the block to make sure it ran well and got through the gears smoothly) but it was a VERY slick riding bike. My guess is he will get it next week, it will sit in his garage for 6 months and then he'll sell it to me for peanuts some time next season because he has "no time" or is too scared to ride it. He is an inexperienced rider and yes, I swear I tried to talk him out of it in lieu of something less potent but his mind is set. All I can do now is try to get his skills built quickly and hope he doesn't kill himself. 🙄

I did some poking around and was surprised I didn't see more on this... My brother-in-law asked me to come check out a bike for him. It was a Triumph Sprint 1050. The first thing I noticed when I got on was upgraded Triumph gel seat. I'll tell you man... it was like a squishy heaven compared to my VFR seat. I took a look around for VFR upgrade options but I don't see much beyond the Corbin and Sargent sport seats. The corbin seat is a whopping $600+ USD and the Sargent is about $425. I read some reviews on the Sargent and wasn't all that impressed with what I was reading. Sounded like the seat wasn't all that much different than stock. Does anyone have any experience with either of these? EDIT: I also want to keep the pillion seat Cowl which doesn't look like an option with something like the top Sellerie . The Sellerie is almost $800 with shipping though which is way more than I am willing to spend.

I don't disagree with you on Honda, Cap. They are pretty precise with what they do. I bought this bike used and I have NO idea what could have happened to it with the Previous owner. For all I know he had to replace a Stauncion and it wasn't the same length. I verified they were re-assembled in the correct order after the work I did and had been fine for the two seasons prior to that (other than the seal leaking) so I don't think there is too much need for concern. Its likely I just didn't realize they weren't the same height through the top clamp which had me scratching my head.

I had to drive part #11 (Upper bush) in followed by the washer and then the Seal. Part 12 (lower bush) slipped in with no issue. The fork cap is fully in and all fasteners were torqued to spec per the FSM. The bottom out cone came out with the damper as I recall. I kept the parts in order as I took apart and reassembled them and followed a diagram to ensure they went back together properly si I don't think this is an assembly issue. Looking again at the diagram and thinking back over the process for the lower part: The lower bush clicks into place and slides into the fork lower Drop the upper bush into place and drive in using fork seal driver and Spacer. Drop fork seal into place and Drive in using fork seal driver. Insert snap ring. Drive in dust seal At that point, the assembly can be manipulated to it's longest and shortest reach. Given there is no free play in the fork and the only thing that affects the overall length is the Stanchion itself I have to assume one is slightly longer that the other and I just didn't catch it on disassembly. I've ridden it several times since the job was completed and it certainly hasn't affected performance at all. Thanks for all of the responses guys.

Guys, I'm so sorry for the slow response. I had to go get my Covid 19 Vaccine this afternoon and got hung up. Regarding the oil lock piece I never took it off to do the bushes and seals. Just to make sure I'm following you correctly- you are referring to part #16, right?: Is it possible I could have driven part# 11 in farther on one side than the other? EDIT: Apologies if I'm asking dumb questions here. It's my first fork seal replacement.