Blackened

I don't disagree with you on Honda, Cap. They are pretty precise with what they do. I bought this bike used and I have NO idea what could have happened to it with the Previous owner. For all I know he had to replace a Stauncion and it wasn't the same length. I verified they were re-assembled in the correct order after the work I did and had been fine for the two seasons prior to that (other than the seal leaking) so I don't think there is too much need for concern. Its likely I just didn't realize they weren't the same height through the top clamp which had me scratching my head.

I had to drive part #11 (Upper bush) in followed by the washer and then the Seal. Part 12 (lower bush) slipped in with no issue. The fork cap is fully in and all fasteners were torqued to spec per the FSM. The bottom out cone came out with the damper as I recall. I kept the parts in order as I took apart and reassembled them and followed a diagram to ensure they went back together properly si I don't think this is an assembly issue. Looking again at the diagram and thinking back over the process for the lower part: The lower bush clicks into place and slides

Guys, I'm so sorry for the slow response. I had to go get my Covid 19 Vaccine this afternoon and got hung up. Regarding the oil lock piece I never took it off to do the bushes and seals. Just to make sure I'm following you correctly- you are referring to part #16, right?: Is it possible I could have driven part# 11 in farther on one side than the other? EDIT: Apologies if I'm asking dumb questions here. It's my first fork seal replacement.

Hi Blackened, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

First, my apologies I just went out and looked again instead of going by fuzzy memory. 10mm was a gross overestimation on my part. It's 4-5mm at most. The assembled forks when set to the same position in the top yoke don't line up at the bottom so the axle can pass through. I can pop the caps off the forks and fish everything out to ensure it is together correctly. As I said I was careful about doing everything in the proper order so I don't think that would be the case. I'll check it though just so there is no question. Thanks for a very quick response!

Hey guys, last season I discovered I had a fork seal leaking. I got the All Balls kit to do the bushings and the seals and finally with the weather warming up these last few weeks I managed to get the forks rebuilt (Thanks Kev's Shed!) and leak free. As I was putting it all together though, I found that one fork seemed about 4-5 mm longer than the other. I realized this when I tried to put the axle through and couldn't do it. Unfortunately, I didn't check where it was positioned in the top clamp when I was taking it apart (Why would I?) so I'm not sure if it was like that before o

Yeah, I crushed up a pencil lead into dust and rubbed it over the lever. That should have highlighted any cracks in it if there were any.

Well apparently I just wasn't hitting it hard enough! Hitting harder for the win! It's (almost) perfectly straight now - Lo and behold, I do not need more adjustment. Can't believe I never thought to check that! 😄 I took a minute to do some adjustments to the shift lever and it feels like a new bike! Going to change the brake pads and do the fork seals for the cold weather months. Can't wait to take her out this spring!

I'm debating putting it in a vice to see what that does.... It's not an awful bend, but it is enough to be annoying. I'll likely end up replacing it.

Well it looks like I have my answer. After comparing against several photos I can see my foot lever is bent. I pulled it off and took a few whacks at it with a hand sledge (If is breaks it breaks, it's going to get replaced anyway) but it didn't budge. I slowly dropped the bike not long after I got it. I wasn't even moving, just lost my balance. That was likely when it happened and I just didn't realize it because I hadn't set the bike up yet. That or the PO did it which is also a possibility.

And one other thing I just noticed when I compared my photo to another VFR photo... Does that pedal look bent?

My brake pedal needs to be adjusted down more. I know how to adjust it (and yes I have!) but the problem I am running into is that I can't get it adjusted down any more than it already is. A few pics: Where it currently sits: The tiny gap left for adjustment (Actually it is needed so it doesn't interfere with it's movement😞 How my foot sits in comparison to where I want it: The last pic makes it look really bad so you'll have to take it with a grain of salt. Unfortunately taking foot position selfies was harder than I thou

LOL. Just my luck! No worries. I've changed plenty of brakes before just not on a VFR. I'm going to work one at a time but will be sure to make sure nothing gets lost. Ah... Figures. I'm still trying to figure out why they have two separate part numbers for the same part!! Wouldn't have it any other way. Last thing I need is pads tainted with Fork oil.

Agreed on the price. Seemed pretty reasonable to me. Weird that they would give all three sets of brake pads different part numbers. 😳

I've been doing some general maintenance and minor electrical work (Adding a secondary gauge bracket) on my VFR for the last few days. While I was working on it I noticed the fork seals were showing some signs of leakage and the front brake pads were starting to look a little thin. I ordered my fork seal kit (Go AllBalls!) but have some conflicting information on the brake pads I wanted to clarify on. Since I am doing this I figure i'll do both front and rear. Per a parts diagram if I replace all three brakes There are three separate part numbers: Front left: 06455-MCC-