squirrelman

HAHAHA, no commie chineze starters, please. nothing chineze will work properly or for long.

^^^^^^^ as you know, he can very easily test any possible starter relay problems by means of the simple expedient of bridging over the large nuts with a suitable metal tool, taking special care not to allow grounding or the bike to be in gear.......who's that dumb ? 😏

your bike could be overheating without your knowing it, check coolant level under the radiator cap when engine is cold, if coolant level falls too low [leaks, bad rad cap] the temp gauge will be inaccurate.

you need to test for spark when it quits. carry a spare plug so you don't need to remove one. something that happened on one of my ' eighty-six seven hundreds: starts and runs right then stops after getting up to operating temp...........BAD PULSE COILS.

examples of main fuse overheating

good call, yes, those sometimes stick, which alters the fuel level.

you need to understand how to measure float height, then check it carefully. new plugs will need to have gaps checked/set to thirty thousandths of aN inch. do not over-tighten. check that you use the proper plugs, and as another check, post here photos showing the id numbers on the plugs.

i had a problem with the box on my '86 where it quit firing just one cylinder. bad box for sure. you're taking too many chances by using cheap crap alierxpress chinese junk in your carbs. we still want to see your sparkp;lugs........ this is the best way to be sure idle jets are fully open, compressed air won't do it:

did you verify slide action using compressed air ?????? i dunno man, remove all sparkplugs --loosen radiator and swing it forward to access front plugs, then post plug photos here.

did you remove the stacks when you worked on carbs ?"? the stacks will block critical holes unless they're indexed EXACTLY right on reassembly. starts and idles well, but you need to test and verify each slide action using compressed air. its not getting enough fuel to rev up. did you adjust floats or replace needle and seat ? could be very low fuel level in carbs due to a fault somewhere ? some bikes need the airbox and filter in place to run right, just sayin....................... 🤓 how old is the fuel? you could try running with the airbox, filter and tank in place as a test......after you're sure the fuel pump is working 🙄

here's the first sign that things are going bad....heat damage.

test slides after reassembling them by shooting compressed air into the oval-shaped section at the top of the airbox side of carb. slide should rise strongly if the diaphragm is seated correctly.

looks like you screwed up the diaphragms installation--just as i suspected. it's really unnecessary to remove the cover over the slides for cleaning in almost every case and not always easy to get them seated back in their grooves correctly after they wrinkle and get old. air compressor can be used to check for proper slide function before carbs go back on.

again.......do you have an air compressor you can use ?

could be your problem right there. your symptoms suggests that one or more vacuum slides are not rising properly to richen fuel mix with increasing rpm's. if you remove airbox and filter, with engine running you should be seeing slides rise and fall with throttle movement. its really hard to get old diaphragms properly seated in their grooves, so slides won't rise. do you have access to an air compressor ? you must try bypassing the pump relay as yours might have failed.

the cheapest possible chinese reproduction of a quality japanese oem part and won't last as long., light duty probably designed for a small asian scooter. did you hook up the B and M terminals correctly and not switched ? don't believe claims that something fits your bike if it comes from chinese amazon.

the fuse holder part of the solenoid switch can melt down.....

a short will usually blow a fuse, so check all of them. were the carbs worked on recently ? the starter clutch you installed may be incorrect for your bike. compare the bumps along the outer ring with those on the starter clutch you replaced.

no, i don't believe that. gravity feed is a very poor option, and problems arise when fuel in tank is below half full. the chinese r/r i recently tried crapped out after just 60 miles !

oh yeah, that chinese pump won't last long cuz it's just trash like 90%% of commie junk. always test pump by jumping the relay as relays fail more often than pumps. some locked up pumps can be revived by grasping the top of the plunger with pliers and pulling it up.

the subframes that the gauges mount to are different '86 to '87.

right, that vents to oiutside air. any fuel dripping from there means one or more leaking float needles. overflowing means leaking, right ? did you recently work on the carbs ? it's smart and ez to test carbs for leaks on the bench before installing, hooking up the carbs to a hose and funnel, etc. set the carbs on regular brown boxboard to see where leaks come from, allowing a few minutes for therm sitting. remove the airbox to check for liquid fuel in any carb throat ( leaky float needle), another possibility is leaky fuel tube O-rings or bowl gaskets. it's best to determine exactly where leak is from first, if possible. sometime,s just letting the bike sit with fuel in the carbs for awhile will stop leaking. seals my shrink and dry during storage but expand to stop leaks when soaked i gas.

ok ......i got to work with grinder and files, sandpaper and polish to make that cheap-lookin stamped metal part look like a cast alloy part from italy. just a matter of rounding the edges and blending. (can't find my pix) takes hours but looks alot better than stock.

it's due to either human error or the result of creeping entropy. it would be near tragic if the WORLD disappeared 🤣 . 🤣