lastfleetadmiral

Instruments now powered up. Need to mount the magnets into the RH front disc bobbins so the sensor can pick up the rotation but its not going to be difficult. My biggest current pain is the oil cooler pipes that are completely shot. I need to find a solution to this that doesn't cost the earth and replaces with new items as every second hand set i have thus seen are understandably little better than the ones i have currently. Sometimes its easy to forget these bikes are approaching 40 years old. Now for a bit of a plug. I've just finished reading Matt Oxley book "Racing Hitler" If you don't know Matt he's a long Standing Motorcyclist Author. Its a great read about the quest for the Motorcycle speed record between the wars

Got the carbs fitted and the new instruments in place along with the rear mudguard assembly. Now comes the hard part of wiring everything up. I need new oil cooler hoses as the ones that came with the bike have numerous pin holes in them that got exposed once the rust was removed. Part of me is thinking of bypassing the oil cooler as for £35 there is a bypass pipe available on line, however my gut tells me to retain the cooler and make new pipes as i very much doubt any 35 year old used hoses will be much better than the ones i have. Getting the carbs back on was simpler than i expected no doubt helped by the fact I replaced the rock hard original runner stubs with new ones. Can any one help with a measurement of the distance from the front wheel spindle to the underside of the bottom yoke. It needs measuring with the front wheel of the ground and no load

Triumph T595 Handle bars. They mount under the top yoke but then rise above so will sit about 50mm lower than the Honda Bars. You can get a riser kit for the triumph bars that would get them very close to the Honda Height

A bit more completed today. The Engine is now fully built and timed up. Just waiting on fitting the oil cooler to spin it over on the starter motor with no spark plugs in to check oil pressure. Rear sub frame has been loosely mounted along with the rest of the exhaust. Big shout out to Gave Silver Spares who accepted an order for the gearchange detent spring an item they did not have in stock and listed as "No Longer Available" that the sourced and got to me in two weeks for £5.00 including postage. This was a show stopper as the old spring was so week that it was failing to push the paws home and so not changing gear smoothly. A Few more pictures of progress

A bit more done today. New clutch plates fitted with heavy duty springs. Cylinder heads fitted and the new exhaust headers attached. Rear headers a bit of a pig to get in, I has to put a jack under the engine and remove the top shock mounting bolt to get enough clearance to get the rear headers in place. one of the original exhaust studs I had to drill out but managed to tap 7mm and put in a 7mm to 6mm stepped stud. Next part of the build will to be attach the cams and get the timing sorted before the clutch cover goes on. At this point i will loop the oil cooler inlet and outlet so i can fill the engine with oil and spinning the starter motor check the oil pressure and gear selection before moving forward. Talking of gear selection the selector detent mechanism is a terrible design, I note changed on the 88/89 models to a better set up but not backward compatible. My detent spring is well past its best, they are only £2 but are obsolete stock so while i do have one on order with Dave Silver Spares I'm not sure i will recive it.

A bit more done yesterday. More of the engine assembled. Water pump is a mess and will take time to clean up. I have had to get new front discs are the 675 ones are 310mm and the T595 320mm. Lucky there is a kit for the 675 to upgrade the discs to 320mm so its a straight forward purchase but a lot of money. Still a couple of Brembo Discs mated to the 4 pot calipers should make it brake with vigor 🙂

Been busy today. I have built the short engine and mounted in in the frame. The gearchange Mechanism is a POS. and i wasted over 90 minutes trying to get the spring paw together and working all to no avail. Will look at it again tomorrow to see why i cant seem to make it work. Some pictures below showing todays activity

The Triumph 675 wheel brake discs line up nicely with the calipers so no work needed there. I need to make a 28mm long spacer for the RH side of the front wheel (as your sat on the bike) as the T595 uses a speedo worm drive so no spacer this side and the 675 wheel does not. The T595 spacer on the RH side is 21mm long (it uses the spindle shaft to take up the other 7mm so i cant just use two of these (I'm putting on electronic instruments so no need for a speedo worm drive. Everything needs tweaking when putting none standard kit on anything so everything takes time.

Triumph forks now mounted with custom made tube's and modified internals to suit the extra length. These forks are nice and chunky 45mm with full preload, rebound and damping adjustment. Now if anyone has standard forks on a RC 24 in could do with the measurement from the bottom of the frame were the bottom yoke meets the frame to the center of the wheel spindle as i should have taken this measurement to aid setting up the new front end

Hi Everyone. My first Post So I'm building a VFR using a lot of different bits and pieces to get in the end my version of a 6X replica. Highlights are Triumph Daytona 675 Wheels. Triumph T595 Forks (45mm) Powder coated Frame, Engine Ported, Vapor blasted and painted. I will start posting photos of the build as it progresses