tsmitty

I used CLR with some (un-cooked) rice and shake shake shake... worked well enough for me.

Looks good keny!! The bike has come a long way.

On an old 86 I took a broken IP bezel and stuffed a Honda Marine meter in...

Bike's looking nice Keny! Try to go stock hardware if posable. https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/collar-rrcowl-mo_77217ml7000/ https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/rubber-rrcowl-mo_77218ml7000/ Here's how I help secure my busted up tail section. I know it's crude but it's cheap and no-one will know.

Gone just about full circle here. I have been practicing my spray painting skills on other stuff and don't thing I'm ready to pull this one off yet.

A Blessing in disguise Keny, the 30 year old plastic fuel tubes can be replaced with aluminum. I put alum. tubes on my 86 but I had a bad interference problem at the very same spot you have pictured above. So be careful there, double check clearance there when assembled. I fixed the problem with my set of tubes with a half round file and some good music. Have fun!

Very nice Terry!

With mine, I have always given it full choke then hit start, when she goes into high idle I will unchoke slowly until a smooth 1500 idle, at that point I wait, dont change anything, the bike will go into a second high idle after a minute or so, then I turn the choke off and she's ready to rumble. I mentioned this in a post; my bike seems slow to reach the second fast idle so I turned the mixture screws in 1/4 turn for a try.

Title says it all, wanted to ask you guys before I try to make one. Thanks

Sounds fun! Give it a try. Here a are couple things I was asking myself while looking at your pics: I'm an old school CB 750/550 head; the 750's back in the day use to have a "dry sump" lubricating system. Is that still the case with your bike? If so is the oil tank still under the right side cover? Will there be room for a single shock and linkage in the area that houses the battery and the oil tank, airbox? Are you going stock air box, v/stacks or K&N's? Is there room for the new swingarm at the pivot point @ the frame or will the frame get modified; just guessing the sssa is much wider than the stock one and probably cant be made narrower because of bearing/seal casting on the sssa? I have used a dummy engine with an output shaft to help align the engine and sprockets with the rear but that was for a 100mph straight line bike...you have so many more variables. Good luck keep us posted.

The new fuel pump is in place and the bike is back in service, so yesterday I snugged up the carb boots, 1/4 turn in on the idle mix screws; the choke start warm up sequence just doesn't act like I remember, so I'll try to sneak up on it. The bike starts way too easily to justify buying another set of carb sticks (the ones I use to have...long gone) but the carbs could be a little more synchronized than the bench job I did. So I'm getting ready to address a "red flag" issue I had at the front brake lines and their re-assembly. I put the current set of Galfer's SS front brake lines on the old girl back in 1987-88'ish. The lines now have kinks and crushing, not heavy but still there. the line are very short and the caliper ends are straight not angled...they don't fit well and I don't like it. hah So I have a set of NOS galfer's on the way for 80 bucks and...how do I pull this off without making a mess!!?? haha Could be a winter project...

Love it! Welcome...

Hell for that matter, I can just go back to double wall rubber and clamps from auto zone; I don't have any sharp bends to navigate other the at the tank and I have a 90 there.

I'm thinking that might be the plan; I got one of those multi-size clamp sets last year and couldn't use any them. What you see up there in the pictures is what I was able to scrounge around the garage at the time. Can the clamps I have be safety wired slightly tighter..?

Pictured on my fuel pump, you can pinch them open pretty easy.