JZH

The cheaper, proven solution is the MOSFET Yamaha R1 one--you can pick them up on eBay, or even new. Never heard of any failing (but I'm sure at least a few have!) Ciao, JZH

There's "possible" and then there "practicable"... I've never owned a '98-'99, but looking at my Y2k and '01 models I think you could do it if you wanted to swap a bunch of parts--certainly looks do-able at the handgrip end; not so sure what would be required at the throttle body end. There's also a "wax unit" between the cylinders which is plumbed into the cooling circuit (this is the part that often fails), which you might have to or want to remove, so that means the t-body would have to come off. Good luck! Ciao, JZH

Sorry to hear the 35mm ID "conical spring washer" is NLA--that's never a good sign! Titan Classics reproduces the 38mm version of this in titanium, but that's only good for the NC30/35/ RC30/45 sized axles. FYI, Revzilla says it's in stock, but I don't think I believe them, because nobody else shows it as available. It'd be different if they were David Silver Spares or Hondarestoration.com, but I suspect their database is just out of date. Worth checking, though. Speaking of whom, DSS says it can be special ordered, which might be true, given that I also found it showing as "in stock" at a Japanese parts site. If the bushing is an insert, I bet it will simply tap out using a big drift from the wheel-side. OTOH, if that's all it is, there's probably no particular reason to remove it. Unless you're using a SSSA stand or planning to do a single-nut conversion (which utilize a solid axle within the hollow axle), the only useful thing I can think of which you now cannot do is put a u-lock through it (or a Pragmasis "Anti-Pinch Pin", which I have here). Ciao, JZH

I generally get 3/8" ID polyurethane clear tubing from someplace like Aircraft Spruce, and couple that with 3/8" stainless steel barbed beer line fittings (see www.kegworks.com), which are available in bends--including a 180-degree bend which allows you to avoid having a long, lazy loop of tubing going from the RHS of the petcock to the LHS of the rear subframe. Unlike PVC tubing, polyurethane (aka Tygon) tubing shouldn't get damaged by fuel. And the barbed stainless beer line fittings mean you (probably) don't need annoying hose clamps... Ciao, JZH

The problem is probably more than the rounded bolt head. It probably got rounded because someone was trying to tighten it around an increasingly slipping mirror shaft. FYI, you can directly swap the mirrors from the Y2k-01 model onto your '98; those mirrors don't have the "condoms" and generally work better. You can also get aftermarket Y2k mirrors, but I've never found any non-OEM versions with the same quality as OEM. Ciao, JZH

BTDT... I should add that there's nothing like being stranded on the side of a motorway in a foreign country to bring out one's philosophical side. Ciao, JZH

Yes, rebuilding is the now-best option. But, it's pretty easy, if you have a drill press to drill out the rivets and a set of taps. Finding the right o-rings could take a couple of tries, or you can buy a rebuild kit from NRP in the UK? For that model, though, you can use just simple o-rings (rather than a large gasket with multiple smaller openings, like some other models have). I should mention that there are two different sources of potential leakage: the large o-ring between the petcock and the tank, and the smaller o-rings within the petcock itself. Ciao, JZH

That is not the OEM '90-'93 axle (or it has something stuck into it for some reason). Worth investigating. Ciao, JZH

Beware using US-based online fiche, as the spec can be different to European models. I use www.bike-parts.fr mainly because it's prominent on my website homepage, but there are others, e.g., Lings. Ciao, JZH

The entire frame is ground, so you could actually use any location that works for you. Ciao, JZH

I think the LCD screen component stores the odometer reading, FYI, so that would change with a new/old unit. Ciao, JZH

Headlight modulator? Ciao, JZH

FYI, the OEM VFR750 petcock does include a reserve function--even if it was not enabled on the US-spec bikes. That's why it has two inlets, and two strainer tubes. The same Honda part can be used on bikes with and without the reserve switch on the fairing--the selector knobs are different. Ciao, JZH

May I just point out that when the 1990 VFR750F was released in late 1989, there weren't a lot of alternatives to 10W40 dino oil. Yes, synthetics existed, and other grades existed, but oil technology has certainly moved on since then. Therefore it makes perfect sense that more modern formulations can indeed be better than the 10W40 specified in the Owners' Manual, although it also makes sense that some of them could be worse. My point is that what's written in the Owners' Manual isn't necessarily the best advice today (although I don't have any to offer!) Ciao, JZH

The bottom duct is the counterpart to the top one. Also an air guide, but on the other side. Ciao, JZH

Looks like France to me (I just got back from a driving trip to Italy), plus Devil being a French exhaust and the bike not having Italy's mono-headlight. Ages ago there was a TV film about a woman who crashed her red 3rd gen near a small US/Canadian town and whilst stranded there helped a rape victim deal with her troubles. And then she fixed the exhaust downpipe and rode off! Ciao, JZH

Interesting. I have not seen that before, but it looks neat and tidy. Ciao, JZH

I get the impression you're going to be based in the UK (it wasn't entirely clear), but in most cases I would probably choose the GS over the Valk or the VFR. The Valkyrie is simply too big for Europe. I used to know a guy with one and we went on week-long group trips together a few times, and I understand why he chose it (he's an, ummm, big bloke), but it's really on the limits of practical. It would definitely make a statement, however! As I don't have a GS, I would be happy to take my fifth gen (it's already kitted out with GiVis, so ready to tour). The GS would be very comfortable, and all the old fogeys ride them, so you'll fit right in! I don't know about reliability, but at least there are a lot of BMW dealers in Europe to visit... By the way, importing and selling a bike in Europe or the UK is not the easiest thing to do, because at some point the tax will have to be paid (either by you if you're a resident, or by the buyer). You can get bikes in without officially importing them (or at least I was able to when I last did it ca. 2006), and you'll have to deal with getting insurance on a foreign-registered bike, which is a big hassle. It usually makes more sense to buy a bike locally (assuming you are resident somewhere and can register it/get insurance) than to temporarily import it or try to sell it. How long will you be there? Ciao, JZH

Er, silicone grease is dielectric grease. Perhaps it is a bit counterintuitive to apply an insulator to electrical connections, but that substance was undoubtedly chosen to prevent bridging between adjacent contacts--which could be a real issue for signal circuits. If you're relying on the grease to make the electrical contact, you've got a bigger problem than the grease! Ciao, JZH

Assuming you're referring to the Battery Tender battery tester which is based on the Midtronics PBT-50 battery tester, I have one and have used it for several years to monitor the progressive demise of many AGM batteries. The main issue I have with that kind of tester is that it requires you to look up the battery type in a list, and then input the corresponding number into the tester. If your battery is not on the list, you don't know which number to input. They (Midtronics, no idea about Battery Tender) have not updated their list since 2004. Most batteries are listed, but I never liked the system they've chosen. Ciao, JZH

"Computer says no"! Sargent (based in the US) just doesn't understand that the same bike was sold in other countries after 2009. If it's not in their database, it doesn't exist. As a Yank, I can say, "typical Yanks", but you'd be best advised not to! Ciao, JZH

Someone on another forum once gave me a full strip of that clear PVC loading dock plastic (hangs vertically, to keep out bugs and cold, but you can drive a forklift through it, etc.). Quite thick and wide enough to wrap around a shock spring. Plus, you can see your lovely shock spring through it! Another option. Ciao, JZH

I dunno. Those figures came from the American Honda microfiche supplied to all of their US dealers. It is also published in the Honda Motorcycle Identification Guide (1959-1998). I'd be curious to hear what Honda said about this discrepancy! Ciao, JZH

IIRC, it was actually never a law, but an agreement among the Japanese manufacturers towards having always-on headlights for motorcycles (and towards harmonising worldwide manufacturing). Having a switch on your headlights was never illegal in the UK (and still isn't an MOT failure, AFAIK). I doubt much changed between the 5th and 6th gens in terms of headlight wiring, so it would probably be fairly easy to "reverse engineer" that feature by fitting parts from the previous model. I converted a VFR750 and a CBR1000F from US-spec to UK-spec back in the day and I recall that I had to run only one or two extra wires into the switch pods in order to get the Passing switch to work. I think all I did on the other side was fit the lower pod from the UK model, which has a simpler starter switch. (I may have had to swap some of the wires in the connectors, too--it's been a few years, sorry!) In any case, it is very do-able. As Grum mentioned, however, the always-on bikes disconnect the lights when the starter button is pressed, thus allowing all of the battery's power to go towards starting the engine, so that's not really a concern. I like having control of the lights, however, but also bear in mind that you will have to remember to turn them on... Ciao, JZH

Look around for cables from a physically "bigger" bike, such as a ST1300. Many Honda cables have the same ends, but are manufactured in different lengths to suit different bikes. Ciao, JZH