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Everything posted by JZH

  1. You can hardly find wet-cell lead acid powersports batteries these days--even if you wanted one. AGM lead-acid batteries have been bog-standard OEM fitment since at least 1990 (my FL had one). Apart from Lithium, there has been no significant change in powersports battery technology since 1990. In the early 2000s the OEMs started going with "factory activated" AGM lead-acid batteries, but the only difference between those and the previous AGM lead-acid batteries was the fact that they were activated and sealed at the factory (and then sat on a shelf, slowly sulfating, until purchased). Ciao, JZH
  2. LED's suffer from the same problem the old HIDs did: because they're an illegal and badly designed technical bodge, the major manufacturers stay away from the market and your only choices are various fly-by-night dodgy eBay sellers flogging various grades of Chinese junk. But if you absolutely must run the latest inappropriate technology, good luck. Ciao, JZH
  3. And good call on fitting the "trackday bodywork"! Ciao, JZH
  4. It's a very common master cylinder, given that there were many Hondas in the '90s with 296mm discs and two-pot calipers. OTOH, 12.7mm NISSIN m/c rebuild kits are plentiful, too, and then you'd know it was done right. Ciao, JZH
  5. This is one of those things that you have to experience to understand. But if you're like most people, you won't gut pipes twice. Ciao, JZH
  6. I had assumed the OP was talking about the rider pegs... The passenger ones may be more common--I've never checked. Ciao, JZH
  7. I have several NCs. There are two main ways to help identify these bikes: the Frame Number and the Paint Code sticker under the seat. However, if anyone has swapped parts around, all bets are off! Some bikes still have a barcode sticker under the rear number plate, too. If you tell us what numbers you've got, I can help narrow it down for you. I have all of the Honda Parts Catalogues for these bikes. (Registration paperwork is notoriously unreliable, unless that is the original paperwork from Japan.) Ciao, JZH
  8. The 3rd and 4th gen footpegs are almost unique--even among Hondas, unfortunately. There may be aftermarket pegs available, but the bike is so old now, you may just have to find used ones on eBay. Ciao, JZH
  9. Shouldn't a "good" battery be 12.7v or higher? I think I'm done with AGM batteries. I've eventually killed every single one I've ever owned--and that's with hooking them up to a smart charger/maintainer. I'm planning to buy a single, large capacity Lithium battery which will physically fit into all of my bikes (from 250cc to 800cc). After all, I can only ride one at a time anyway... Ciao, JZH
  10. In case you've missed it, MotoGP "re-starts" the season this weekend with a round at Jerez, Spain. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the schedule has been completely revised, with this weekend's race being followed by another race at Jerez next weekend. In fact, as the calendar stands at the moment, the "double rounds" outnumber the single rounds (five to three), and if you like watching MotoGP races in Spain, you're in luck, as there will be seven of them this year... Roll on! Ciao, JZH
  11. It appears to be somewhere near Australia, based on the shipping charge! Ciao, JZH
  12. Hi, welcome! I've viewed the video, but I can't really hear what's happening. I think you may need to simply start taking things apart--if you can get the front wheel off the ground you can check the front wheel bearings and the steering stem bearings at the same time (push, pull, wiggle...). If that seems okay, and you can find nothing wrong, at least you're all set to remove the forks and open them up! Good luck. Ciao, JZH
  13. Lol, this looks like the work of a UK sparky! Who else (well, other than me...) would have stranded mains earth single cable (the green/yellow wire) lying around the shop? Whatever works... Ciao, JZH
  14. I'm just repeating what I've heard, but I believe the HISS ring is just an antenna--all of the programming is contained in the ECU. Ciao, JZH
  15. Well, it'll hold this much: How much more does he need?!? (I'm missing my Yellow Peril,,,) Ciao, JZH
  16. Making it brighter is easy; making it better is not. Ciao, JZH
  17. Yes, particularly because fitting the wrong valve stem can result in rapid deflation of the tire--not something you want happening on the motorway, Ciao, JZH
  18. The OEM yokes have 40mm offset; SP1/CBR has 30mm offset (VFR1200 has 35mm offset). Just a thought. Ciao, JZH
  19. A reflector headlight design doesn't really lend itself to upgrading, but many people are happy with slightly brighter H4 halogens. You can make it worse. Ciao, JZH
  20. Some of that data is correct. Ciao, JZH
  21. Or an SP1 bearing on a CBR stem! The VFR (and CBR) takes a 30x55x17, whereas the SP1 takes a 35x55x14 (and the SP2 something even larger). One of the pioneers of the SP1 front end conversion, Veefer800Canuck I believe, came up with the idea of using steel snap rings to take up the extra 3mm difference in height. It's on the first page of this thread: I think you could accomplish the same thing by using two snap rings in the bottom of the frame, instead of one there and one under the lower stem bearing (or vice versa). But with the CBR lower triple, bearing height is no longer an issue (as it wasn't for my somewhat stalled RC36 SP1 conversion, which uses a VFR1200 lower triple (for a greater offset)). The transponder chip in the key is easily removed from the key. There's probably a way to retain the immobiliser, if you want to. Ciao, JZH
  22. The forks look like SP1 parts, but the only way to tell if the calipers are SP1 is to measure the ODs of the pistons (although this may not make a huge practical difference, it helps to match the master cylinder). Here's some pics of my CBR lower stem--looks like yours, to me. This pic shows the difference between the CBR triple and the SP1 triple--big height difference, but you may not need it. The practical difference is that the clamps grip the forks at different heights (imagine that the lower bearings are at the same installed height, you can see that the SP1 clamps the forks lower down). I don't know off hand if the 5th gen really needs the SP1 lower or not, but it does look pretty cool! More important is probably the top clamp, and that's where you would rather have the 929/954 top clamp, as it means you might be able to fit the clip-ons above the top clamp. SP1 forks are relatively long, so they are the best for maintaining more "VFR-like" ergonomics. Bearing-wise, the SP1 lower has a smaller stem than the SP2, so the bearings are not interchangeable. For the SP1-5th gen conversion you need 32907JR-2 (35x55x14) lower bearings. But the CBR lower triple could use the same bearings as the 5th gen--measure the OD of the two stems. I don't remember for sure, but I think one of the advantages of the CBR lower is that it takes the same bearings as the 5th gen? Ciao, JZH
  23. From this angle the lower triple on the left doesn't look like a gull-arm. Is it? If not, it's not SP1 or SP2, but 929 or 954. Your bike has been converted to use tapered roller bearings; the other stem has OEM-type roller bearings. Ciao, JZH
  24. Having seen it from close to the beginning, I always considered the Joe Rocket brand (for it was primarily an outsourcer) a bit of a joke. But there's a bit more to it than that, according to this 2017 article: https://www.motorcyclemojo.com/2017/08/rocket-man/#:~:text=In order to focus on,selling it outright in 1996. Ciao, JZH
  25. Try https://www.rickoliver.co.uk/ I have a set of Rick's BSP take-offs, which are very nice. I'm not sure if I ever solved the BSP fittings issue before I stopped (temporarily) working on that bike a couple of years ago... Ciao, JZH
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