Fritzer

So 8200rpm, where did you finally get all your hoses from and at what cost?

I guess I am getting old and dyslexic😊 Thought I read that he had a 8th gen. Sorry

I would recommend downloading the 2014 shop manual available in the recent top download section in the right column on the home page. Then I would follow the procedure for synchronizing the starter valves outlined on page 7-20. I purchased a motion pro vacuum gauge a few years back for this job and it works well, however if you don't use it very much, the medium can evaporate out. If that happens, the next time you want to use it you have to purchase new medium from motion pro. Now when I use it, I load the medium, use it, then remove the medium and return it to the bottle for future use. After you get your starter valves setup, go to page 3-12 for instructions on how to manually set your idle speed. I have a 5th gen and the procedures are pretty much the same. I did this after a valve adjust last year and it now runs like a top. Good luck.

The internet wiped out many businesses including magazines. My last MC subscription just faded out where I was only getting a couple issues a year.

I have used plastic polish and drill mounted buffing kit that I got from tap plastics. It works pretty well. Also recommend that after you get it as clear as possible, have clear bra installed and that will prevent any further deterioration of clarity. I have clear bra installed right away on anything that I purchase that has plastic headlights. Years later they look like new.

What a amazing return on the fun per $$ invested. Nice Buy!

Mine has the same issue. I asked the previous owner when I bought it in 2015 what the issue was but he had no idea. Your magnifying effect sounds like a probable explanation since I have no evidence of electrical problems underneath the dash.

I just replaced the stem bearings in my 5th gen this last summer at 54,000 miles. I had the forks off for seal/bushing replacement when I noticed that there was a definite detent action on the triple clamps. A knowledgeable friend assured me that the bearings were worn out. It was not at the point where I noticed it when riding, but since I was already in that area, might as well do it. The wear in the race was very apparent when I got them removed. I think tapered roller bearings would be better, but I just went with OEM parts from Partzilla. They amounted to $71. Everything seems to be working well now.

Charging system issues on the 5 gen is something almost all have to deal at some time or another. I had to deal with the same issue about a year ago. You can see my posting "charging system performance upgrade" that talks about the solutions I used along with other owners solutions. As stated in the post, generally the problem is bad connector block connections to the RR and poor grounding. After implementing the charging system upgrade described in the post, I have not had any problems with it since. But I have to agree with the dealer about the voltage range. I get around 13v at idle and 13.8v at speed. Plenty of voltage to charge a 12v battery.

I just had a email conversation with Jamie regarding the CBR929 to VFR conversion. He has discontinued that option and explains why in this excerpt from his response. The simple answer is no, the 929 shock does not work on your VFR. What we used to do was take about half the parts of a stock CBR929 rear shock and mate them to new parts that we designed and fabricated ourselves to build a shock specifically for the VFR. There are many details to consider when doing this, details most people won't be aware of. Without attending to all of those details the 929 shock would be very dangerous to ride. Since the introduction of our BD40 series rear shocks we discontinued the CBR929 conversions. The BD40 is not much more money but allows us to offer features you can't get using the 929 as the base. The BD40 also offers performance advantages as well. To attempt to adapt a CBR929 shock to your VFR would actually cost more in the end than one of our BD40 shocks. Appreciate the idea anyway. Thanks

Does it need any modifications to fit into the VFR?

I just talked with Jamie and he graciously took a little time to educate me on the options. One option was to install his brand new shock with spring at $675. This option brings you into serious racing type speeds. The other option is for me to ship him my showa unit and he revalves, installs new seals, and new spring at $295. This option improves general handling & is good into track day events. In addition to the rear shock, he also recommends respringing/revalving the front forks at $335. If you need the seals and bushing replaced also, that might be additional cost? I am assuming that shipping is in addition to the costs mentioned above. After a talk about my riding style, Jamie felt that the showa rebuild/revalve along with the fork enhancements, I would be a happy camper. And it is not too expensive. So when I get my suspension apart in the dead of winter, I will send Jamie my shock and forks. I will share my findings after the VFR gets its suspenders back on.

Not only is it hard on the stock connector & system as you found out, but my personal opinion about over lighting a vehicle is a no no. People that over light their vehicles are doing it at the expense of blinding the people coming directly at them at high speed only a few feet away. Not wise in my book.

I have another tip regarding chain removal and replacement. I remove my chain about every 2,500 miles for a clean and lube. Rethreading the chain back on the counter sprocket can be challenging if it sets back too far in the case. On my FJR, I had to remove the counter sprocket cover to get the chain back on. More hassle then needed if you do the following. At removal of chain stage, connect a old worn out chain (get one from your local wrench if you don't have one laying around) with the master link w/o end plate. Pull your chain through sprocket until the old chain makes the circuit. Disconnect the good chain, clean, oil then replace by Reconnect the good chain to the worn one and pull new chain through. Reconnect master link and your ready to ride. Lot nicer than removing CS cover for chain rethread.

I couldn't get my hands in there to get anything out. It only took about 20 min to get things loose for access. And it is not just about the headlamps but allowing access for maybe wiring issues, rear of gauges access, etc.