Fritzer

I have not needed to remove the filter yet, but I am pretty sure the silicone will stay in place when the filter is removed.

I purchased my 5th gen with a k/n filter installed. I decided to go back to stock filter but found that the gasket at the airbox was missing. Needing to remedy the issue right away I decided to partially fill the receiving channel with silicone rtv. Before installing, I misted my air filter edge with silicon. Worked out to be a perfect seal that let the air filterto be removable.

This technique might be helpful.

A free VFR engine is offered in the Portland Oregon area. https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/mpo/d/oregon-city-1986-vfr-750-engine/7454770016.html

Oddly I didn't write down the clearance specs and archive. Usually I do. All I remember is that most of the exhaust under spec clearances were a bit concerning. They had to be on the edge of failure. Glad I got to them when I did. Not a big deal to do if you have the basic skills and the time. Procedure is pretty well documented in the shop manual and here in the forum. I was hesitant to do the check but the local Hillsboro Motosport honda shop won't work on anything over 10 years old, so ended up doing it myself. Glad I did, another maintenance mystery unshrouded.

AT 51,000 miles, I did the first valve check of my 5th gens life. All exhaust valves were out of spec on the tight side. A lot easier to adjust than to replace burnt valves.

Would you happen to have the part numbers for the taper bearing switchover?

This place could be Aberdeen in Washington State, It is right on the pacific coastline (salty) and the place I think Kurt Cobain grew up in.

My left front fork sprung a leak about a month ago. I caught it pretty early so it didn't make a big mess. While I had the bike apart, figured that rebuilding both would be the wise course to take. I am very luck to have friend that was a dealer mechanic for many years and his knowledge is amazing. I took my forks out and he did the rebuild on them. One of the things he pointed out to me was the micro pits in the fork tube from encounters from rocks. The tube guard blocked most of the impacts, but not all. One of the things Jim recommended was to install some fork boots. His arguments were very compelling, so I ordered up some Polisport fork bellows to fit a 40mm fork tube to a 60mm housing diameter. They were only $20 and good quality rubber material. However, they were too long so I just cut them to length. Zip tied to the fork tube at the top, and covered the entire top of the lower housing, including the existing fork tube guard. Zip ties bellows to the lower housing (with the vent holes rear facing). This effort does a couple of things. Stops contact between seals & dried bug remains Stops rock pitting Dramatic reduction in dirt making it past the seals into the fork oil. Way less wear on bushings. There is a caveat here however. The bellows are wider than the fork tubes and enter into the airflow pathway to the radiators a little bit. I have noticed that moving thru un-turbulated air, my cruise temperature is about 4 f degrees higher. Turbulated air makes a +7 degree over normal condition. I live in Portland Oregon area, so it is usually not super hot here. Mostly dealing with slow or stopped traffic around town so when it gets to fan on temp, there is no difference in cooling ability. So if you are needing to rebuild front forks in the future, this might be something of interest. This was my solution for fork boots a couple years back

No time like the present when dealing with charging problems. I've seen worse in here before but looks don't mean much.

Thanks Cogs. My '99 has 61,000 miles on her and I think the stator is original equipment. I've been nursing the charging system for some time. Love the guide bolt idea, thanks.

I really appreciate all the input generated from my plea for R/R replacement help. I was ready to order up a new one when I thought that doing a double check on the stator health would be wise. I had done a continuity check to see if there was a short in the stator before I posted my plea for help and everything was good on that front. However, I thought maybe a voltage output test would be worthwhile before I ordered. Here are my results at idle, 3k, and 5k with the stator leads disconnected from the R/R. I gave each stator lead a color so I could tell them apart, green, white and black. Green/White 0.5 ohm 2.3v/3v/4v Green/Black 0.5 ohm 10v/30v/55v White/Black 0.5 ohm 14v/35v/58v I think the outputs should be the same for all so I pretty sure the stator is the culprit. Any recommendations for stator replacement. I see they are no longer available from Honda. Is there a trusted aftermarket brand or is it better to have mine rewound? Stator removal. I have a workshop manual to guide me in the removal/install process but wondering if there are any special tricks to make it easier. And also, I came across a video on how to check the rectifier. I looks like the diodes in the R/R are still good. Thanks for all your help in advance.

After nursing along my old r/r for a few years, it is finally time to replace. Barely getting 13.2v at cruise now. I thought I had seen recommendations for a SH775 but wanted to get opinions on choices before I purchase one. Also wanted to know of any preferred suppliers. Thanks

I like the drain in floor. Easy cleanup.

My friends press was a harbor freight at around $140. It however, came with a ram that was not perpendicular to the platform. He easily fixed the issue but you could take it back. Could probably find used ones cheaper.