Fritzer

I have been using plugs on flat tires for the last 6 or 7 years. What a great technique to repair tires. It is a rare event that requires taking my tire in for flat repair, and if I have to take it in, they don't usually want to repair for liability reasons. Not to mention the ease of repair while on the road. Don't forget to bring the compressor with you!

Good advice for the tire change. I'll probably take that route.

About a month ago I was riding along and heard a loud commotion at my rear wheel area. A little jitter and as fast as it came on, it went away. I pull over right away and see that my pyramid hugger fender has been ripped off its mount, but no clue what caused it. I take a bungee and set it up to hold the fender from running into the tire while I ride home, some 8 miles away. After putting the bike on the lift, I see that culprit. A 4" duplex nail at a shallow forward facing angle imbedded itself into the tread portion of the tire but never punctured the case. It stayed in even after it ripped my fender. So, other than my lost fender, it was a easy pull the nail and ride. No plug required. While I'm at it, does anybody have a hugger fender they no longer want? If so, let me know.

May I ask where those were sourced? I purchased these polisport fork dust covers on amazon while in the process of rebuilding my front forks. They are way too long but that was no problem. The small end fit perfect over the inner slide tube and cut end for a perfect fit over the top part of the fork outer case. You can leave the rock chip protector on and install the dust bellow cover over the top of it. Zip tie both ends and you are good to go. You can find these same items here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077L6ZCJK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have to mention that they do raise the normal operating temp at cruising from 172F to 176F due to the larger diameter. However, I have never had a overheat issue with them on. Overall, I think they are a well deserved mod if you have forks off for maintenance. Eliminates rock chips and dust and water penetration thru the seals. This keeps the fork oil much cleaner over the years and dramatically increases the life of your fork seals and bushings.

I ran a voltage output test with one of the 3 coil combinations at a very low 1v at idle, 3v at 3k, and 4v at 5k. The two other combinations were ok at 58v at 5k. As before, if it isn't shorted out and the wire resistance is normal, what would cause the stator to not perform. When I get my cover gasket the plan is to clean off the oil crust buildup at the coil ends nearest the rotor and do a quick reinstall to see if that is the issue. I will post my findings.

I am in the process of replacing my 5th gen stator that has 61,000 miles on it. I think that would be considered a long stator life, but I really don't know why it gradually failed to produce adequate power, for the following reasons. 1. The Stator coils are ungrounded and showing no continuity. 2. Stator field resistance shows within spec .5 ohm on all three fields. So if the stator is not shorted out/grounding and the field coils have normal pathway resistance, why would it not produce power as designed? This question leads me to this proposition. Half of the coils sit in motor oil and this causes a semi crusty baked on oil buildup. Could the baked on oil build up somehow cause a weaker magnetism transfer (or flux leak) to the coils? If that was the case, possibly removing the carbon buildup on the coils would solve the problem. I might giver that a try just to satisfy my curiosity. Any other ideas why the stator fails when it should be good?

They finally did get in touch with me but I had already moved forward with a stator purchase from ricks stators. Nice thing about Ricks' is you don't need to send your core in so it is a little bit quicker. Same price when you figure in savings on shipping.

I have my stator out for a needed rewind and looking for a preferred rewinder that has a good rep with the forum members. I have seen quite a few people recommending Custom Rewind in Alabama but they are either on vacation or out of business with no response to inquires. I've seen in previous threads a rewinder called Ricks but have not had any success locating any contact info for them. Anybody have a lead for them or somebody else?

No time like the present when dealing with charging problems. I've seen worse in here before but looks don't mean much.

Thanks Cogs. My '99 has 61,000 miles on her and I think the stator is original equipment. I've been nursing the charging system for some time. Love the guide bolt idea, thanks.

I really appreciate all the input generated from my plea for R/R replacement help. I was ready to order up a new one when I thought that doing a double check on the stator health would be wise. I had done a continuity check to see if there was a short in the stator before I posted my plea for help and everything was good on that front. However, I thought maybe a voltage output test would be worthwhile before I ordered. Here are my results at idle, 3k, and 5k with the stator leads disconnected from the R/R. I gave each stator lead a color so I could tell them apart, green, white and black. Green/White 0.5 ohm 2.3v/3v/4v Green/Black 0.5 ohm 10v/30v/55v White/Black 0.5 ohm 14v/35v/58v I think the outputs should be the same for all so I pretty sure the stator is the culprit. Any recommendations for stator replacement. I see they are no longer available from Honda. Is there a trusted aftermarket brand or is it better to have mine rewound? Stator removal. I have a workshop manual to guide me in the removal/install process but wondering if there are any special tricks to make it easier. And also, I came across a video on how to check the rectifier. I looks like the diodes in the R/R are still good. Thanks for all your help in advance.

After nursing along my old r/r for a few years, it is finally time to replace. Barely getting 13.2v at cruise now. I thought I had seen recommendations for a SH775 but wanted to get opinions on choices before I purchase one. Also wanted to know of any preferred suppliers. Thanks

The prince of darkness. I am fully aware of that devil, my first car was a 6 year old 1964 Triumph Spitfire.

1956 MGA moved in with my beloved 5th gen today. A little grumpy about it, but I think she'll get over it.

I was out riding with my brother years back when the mother of all insects hit him right where he had his visor cracked open a bit for ventilation. Half went all over the outside and the other half splattered into his nose and face. It was quite a mess. I think he rides with his visor all the way down at speed these days 🙂

That is why I installed fork boot covers when I replaced seals and bushings at 55K miles. They do a great job protecting against seal damage and help prevent dirt getting by the seals and contamination of the fork oil. You can easily see them in the photo, but in real life they disappear in the dark void.

I have gone thru some amazing clouds of gnats that made a solid layer in just seconds! I pity the motels I stayed at 🙂

Just a thought 🙂 Maybe a few pics of the accumulated protein layer available?

Looking at my ’99 with the first coating of insects on the front cowling. I am thinking it might be kind of fun to give it some time to see how thick this insect layer can get, not including the headlight area. Kind of a badge of riding honor?

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mpo/d/gresham-honda-vfr-staintune-exhaust/7306229689.html

I like the drain in floor. Easy cleanup.

A 5th gen with givi bags, 53k miles in good condition came on the market in craigslist Portland for $3,200 this morning and it is gone already. Just checked for it a few minutes ago and in its place is a 1986. https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/mcy/d/vancouver-1986-honda-interceptor-500/7288934882.html

I was on that very same ride mid September 2019. Only made it halfway before the weather made it no fun and I headed back home. Planned on it this last summer but the Covid put a slammer on it. This summer maybe? Anyway, Cogswells path is a awesome ride experience.

Why do people want to remove the pair valve? What advantage is there?

Seems like a good price and maybe a little low. Good luck with getting it sold. What are you replacing it with?