JimMoore

Idk if anyone remembers this discussion. I quit messing with the VFR because I had other broken things that needed fixing and my front brake worked fine. So I did what any 20-year-old squid would do and ignored it. I finally got a chance to work on it yesterday. I bled the brake from the nipple at the seat / tank junction on the right side. There was a ton of air in that line. I got it all out and the rear brake seems to be working fine. I'd like to think it's fixed, but I'm still wondering where all the air came from. I had done a full bleed less than two years ago, so it's not like the brakes had been neglected for decades. I plan to ride for awhile and see what happens.

Hey, thanks man. I really appreciate that. I have a dozen other projects going on in the garage right now. I'll ping you when I get back to the VFR, if that's OK.

Thanks. i started looking at my manual last night and realized it was a lot more complicated that I was thinking.

Hi Folks, The rear brake on my 98 5th Gen has given up the ghost. It goes all the way to the down stop without slowing the bike at all. I bled the rear brake. Got some air out, but the issue did not resolve. First, a quick question about the system. My understanding is that the front is linked to a piston in the rear caliper, but the rear brake is simply a standard rear brake. It functions and bleeds like any other rear brake. Is that correct? Or should I try bleeding at the other ports? With that in mind, I'm thinking that I have a bad seal in my rear master cylinder. There are no leaks or anything like that. Does that sound reasonable? Has anyone rebuilt a rear master cylinder? Any tips or tricks? I see some kits for sale online. Any recommendations?

Those temps sound about right to me. These things run a little hot.

You could coat the entire interior of the tank, but in this case I might try just pouring a small amount into the tank and ensuring it gets down to the rusted spot. Btw, the online instructions mention cutting the RedKote with MEK to make it easier to work with. I would definitely do that, even if I had to do two coats.

I've used a product called Redkote in the past. You'd have to remove the tank, drain it, rinse it, and let it dry. But I'll bet a little RedKote in that corner would fix it right up.

Don't mean to rain on the parade, but I bought a pristine '98 with 14K miles for $2000 a few years ago. That was a good deal, but I don't think any 5th gen is worth $6K.

Thaks. I appreciate the info. Looks like I can score one on EBay for a reasonable price.

Hi Guys, I'm looking to buy a front wheel for my 98. From the fiche it looks like anything from 1998-2001 will work (p/n 44650-MBG-010), but I figured I better check with the experts before I buy. Am I correct? Thanks in advance, Jim Moore

Sounds like there is something wrong. Mine pulls cleanly from 1500 rpm to redline. The opposite of "lumpy."

Before using the compressed air you can remove the pads and pump the brakes to get the pistons started. When you use the compressed air, keep your fingers out of the way. The pistons will pop out with an alarming quickness!

Before you do that toss a bunch of nuts and bolts into the tank and shake it vigorously for several minutes. That will knock off the big rust pieces.

I ended up using 14 AWG. The wires coming from the R/R look like 14. The wires coming from the stator appear to be smaller. 16?

No one knows? I think it's 14 AWG. that's what I'm going with.