JimMoore

Good question. That particular switch on the BMW is notoriously unreliable. It didn't make sense to me to replace an unreliable switch with another unreliable switch. I've had to do it on several different bikes.

I dunno guys. I've had to do it on three or four bike. Beemers are famous for this. I leave them that way permanently, and I'm here to tell the tale.

On some bikes you can cut the wires going to the clutch switch and wire them together. I haven't tried it on a VFR, but it looks like it would work.

I've found it nearly impossible to align the three pieces to attach that inside screw. I've given up. That thole is empty now, and I'm a lot calmer.

Hi. hey, Sorry, I missed this earlier. I think I'm looking for a top case now. Actually the entire project is on hold until I see what happens in the next month or two.

You lift them off with two finger, just like the picture shows. IF that doesn't work I might try tapping it with a hammer while gently lifting it with a pair of vice grips.

My man, that looks like fun, but you gotta work on those shifts. You're spending too much time in between gears and your rpm is getting all out of whack. Try this. First, quit using the clutch on your upshifts. As you approach max rpm, preload the shifter, then roll off slightly and immediately back on the throttle. You'll find yourself in the next gear so quickly and so smoothly you won't believe it. Downshiftiing is a little trickier, but you can smooth that out too. There are two scenarios that require different techniques. Typically you're on the brakes and at idle while you downshift. Try rolling the throttle open a little bit while you downshift. Try to get the rpm to stabilize or even increase, so you're already at the correct rpm for the next lower gear. Sometimes you're at a steady throttle state and you want to downshift to get to a lower gear for a certain corner. Here's a great trick. Preload the shifter, hold the throttle steady, and start to squeeze the clutch. As the clutch disengages the bike will shift to the next lower gear, AND the rpm will increase so you're already at the correct rpm. Money! (Coming into turn 2 looks like the perfect place to use that technique.) Two other thoughts. I think you're shifting too early, especially on the front straight. There's still a lot of hp up above 11K rpm. I'd hold it wide open until at least 12K, then quick shift as discussed above. I'll bet you end up 10-12 kph faster at the end of the straight. You have good telemetry there so it will be pretty easy to see which technique works better. I also think you're a little low on rpm in the corners. I might try adding a tooth in the back so you have a little more drive out of those corners. I actually went with -1/+1. It REALLY made a difference. Completely different bike. Hey, feel free to disregard it all. There's nothing worse than some dickhead picking apart your riding videos. But what the hell, everyone is stuck inside and we'll all be dead in a month anyway.

Thanks guys. I don't know if I can get onboard with those Givi side cases. I like the top rack though. I'm going to look into that.

Thanks guys. That Gerbings stuff looks like just what I need. How does the bike itself handle the power requirements?

Thanks. That would be great. I was looking at a 6th Gen yesterday. I liked the fact that the undertail exhaust left room for bags.

Hi Guys, I'd like to figure out a way to plug in my heated liner / glove combo. My Beemer came with a plug-in socket from the factory. Can I wire something like that up on my '98? Does the '98 create enough juice to run something like that. I know there are rectifier and stator issues with these bikes, but I don't know how heated clothing would affect those potential issues. Thanks, Jim Moore

Hi Guys, I'm trying to figure out if I can turn this '98 into an all-weather sport-tourer. Cold hands probably tops the list of things I hate. Does Honda make a set of heated grips for the 5th gen? Aftermarket? Thanks, Jim Moore

Hi Guys, I'm starting to like my '98 so much that I'm wondering if I can get away with selling my BMW (Y2K R1100RS). The BMW currently has some advantages. First, hard bags. Does anyone make hard bags for the 5th Gen? Thanks, Jim Moore

I had the same issue on a different bike. I tore up the cap pretty good getting it off. I used a set of vice grips to tighten it back up. It looked like crap, but it held up.

Good ideas. Thanks again.