JimMoore

Yep. Exactly. Sound reasonable?

I'm going to use them to connect the wires from the stator on my CBR600 F3. The plug is fried on that bike. If it works OK I'll probably do the same thing to my VFR eventually.

100 miles yesterday. Seems to be fixed. Thanks for the help, fellas.

Thanks guys. Quick question. Is there any reason I shouldn't use heat shrink butt splice connectors? I've had success with them in the past.

Drill Numbers: New battery voltage: Key off: 12.8 Idle: 13.9 5K rpm: 14.1-14.2 Stator resistance pin-to-pin: All 1.5-1.6. Problem? Could be, but I'm guessing a less-than-accurate $15 voltmeter. Stator resistance pin-to-ground: All infinity. Nothing there. Stator AC volts (cold and hot engine): Idle: 18-ish for all three pin-to-pin. 3500 rpm (with choke, not enough hands to do 5000 rpm): 48-ish for all three. I think they would have easily been in the 50s at 5K. Thoughts? My conclusion

Thanks. I'll do that. Turns out the engine I bought for my CBR600 has a crack in the block, so I suddenly have some time on my hands. Yay, me! How long can I run the engine with the stator unplugged? I've never done that before.

Funny thing, as I was playing with it I was thinking, "Goddam, these jumpers are getting HOT!" I'm going to try a new battery tomorrow.

I was able to get it started up and running for a few minutes. I happened to have a volt meter handy, so I checked the voltages at various rpms. The R/R seems to be rectifying and regulating correctly. The bike died after a few minutes and the battery voltage immediately went back to 4v-5v. I think I have an intermittent internal failure of the battery. Any other ideas? Thanks, Jim Moore

I went for a 50-mile ride today. I shut down in the driveway. A minute later when I turned on the key to start back up - nothing. Dead. So dead the clock goes away with the key on. I do have very dim oil and FI lights. I've done a little troubleshooting. The battery has 13 volts key off, 4-5 volts key-on. All my fuses look good, both 30 Amp fuses and all my little ones. All my electrical connections look OK. I don't see anything that looks burned or melted. If I hook up another battery I get power, but just enough juice to barely turn over. Not enough to start. The bik

I have a different bike ('98 CBR600) with the same problem. The connector block from the stator to the R/R is fried, literally blackened and burnt. I plan to cut the connector out and hard-wire the three yellow wires. Out of curiosity, what do you mean by "ring connectors?"

The exhaust doesn't need to be removed, just loosened and turned up out of the way. Still not a brilliant piece of engineering, but that may save you a minute or two. I never really considered any tricks to remove the chain as a whole. I just cut it off with a dremel.

Yeah, I'm gonna vote against that too.

I've used these guys on a couple different bikes. Cheap, and the quality seems OK. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MZS-Clutch-Brake-Lever-Fit-Honda-Interceptor-800-VFR800-1998-2018-VFR800F-02-18/283319266215?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item41f724eba7:g:41oAAOSwPYNcJcE-&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk7PdDazAlGltMLJlUhrWsD04LqFAXKb4Sy2k9tSnIXOwKnnBQpchDHzsNzu2X%2B6N8b8u5Rgn1Y8lwoHbBHjtCfbd5cycDNBDgMgmE%2BMTxlGcF2ecoa6GQDEn%2BCVu9OIvoLroFskGYZbMnXz4nauJYg4I0MBG6joQBGVDOjP%2F6djVT5THK3uAk34m0d8RgiPiPyddoFWk%2BXI4fjYOlbdD4Pf2%2BwSXhVrHYrd%2BCUthQqrSxBJ

Good question. That particular switch on the BMW is notoriously unreliable. It didn't make sense to me to replace an unreliable switch with another unreliable switch. I've had to do it on several different bikes.

I dunno guys. I've had to do it on three or four bike. Beemers are famous for this. I leave them that way permanently, and I'm here to tell the tale.