ShipFixer

Yes - these are easy to replace with new tumblers and keys. Part number is Givi Z228: GIVI Z228 3 Lock set and 6 matching keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046AYXQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B6ZFFKZAZ2MXPG0VVJZC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This has my vote, followed by the panel itself fails. My instrument panel ground wires needed some clean-up when I took the bike apart last year.

I had trouble getting my clutch to bleed correctly after rebuilding it, and I am reasonably experienced (have a lot of things that seem to like collecting humidity and air in lines). A speed bleeder nipple (a bleed nipple with a spring loaded check valve inside) helped a lot!

6th gen for the win! 😄

I must have missed this, but do we need extension cables for the O2 sensors?

I'll just throw in my that it's probably worthless and for sure not close enough to calculate a meaningful Cd. It's going to tell you a calculated power from what it thinks is happening and what it can see, not any kind of direct measurement like a stress and strain gauge type of sensor on a shaft somewhere (which is rarely reliable anyways). Even if you have a dyno run to map to RPM, it's going to be different than actual power at that moment. The problem you will have in the middle is you will have two variables, drag force and power output, so you can't balance one side of the

Love those dimensionless numbers! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient Generally a small front area and greater length (in the direction of flow) is lower drag. But a motorcycle with a person is a bumpy object no matter what. Don't forget drag is proportional to the square of velocity in immersed flow...

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It's pretty much the same as a bag of wet garbage. 😄

Hard to say...I think it's more like how most "consumer grade" headphones that cost a decent amount are really terrible in specific ways that make them palatable to non-audiophiles, and they're doing the best they can for the business line's expected return on investment. The vast majority of owners probably also don't notice the flat spot in the middle of their fuel injection maps for example, but that's there for the same emissions reasons as the closed loop mode. A small handful of owners gathered here and VFRW, etc. get into this but I doubt even most people who plug in Power Commanders

Yup, we've all chased all of those over the years. Some of them like the velocity stacks never really made good technical sense but we tried anyway. You can also add trying the starter valve sync pattern from a 5th gen instead of all-even, and a few others that are closely related. But on the fueling bit, think about any clogged media...it results in consistently lower flow, not something like the dial back at steady cruise. You would also have a lot of other symptoms that would show up other times. It could be that Australian models don't have the same ECU logic. Th

This is actually the first time I've seen someone post a picture of a fuel filter and narrow it down as the root cause of their problem 😄 Words like surging and bogging and whatnot can cover a lot of things that are difficult to diagnose just from reading the words. And fuel is a potential problem across any engine. But power falling off slightly between 4K and 7K RPM, when at steady state on the highway, on a stock 6th gen, with the rider trapped in a do-loop...well, that's just how they are. There were a bunch of people here who bailed off their VFR's to go back to Blackbirds

Should also add the forum has crashed a few times since then. But the original owners were obsessed with two common goals...how to smooth out VTEC (mine has never been bad, especially after starter valve syncs and such) and how to correct this closed loop behavior.