Jump to content

ShipFixer

Member Contributer
  • Content Count

    162
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

ShipFixer last won the day on October 23 2020

ShipFixer had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

57 Great

About ShipFixer

  • Rank
    VTEC Rider
  • Birthday 12/02/1976

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    TXNavy
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  • Yahoo
    mhcengineer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arlington, VA
  • In My Garage:
    2002 VTEC, Hyperpro springs, Racetech fork valves, WP shock, OEM saddle bags, sometimes Helibars...

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ok I got some helpful intel from the previous owner! He said the engine cut out on him a couple times, and the solenoid and connector melted. In addition to replacing the solenoid and connector, he also repaired a shorting ground wire under the left side fairing, which seems familiar from some of the other threads, and the connector there had melted. That seems pretty close to some other common issues in other threads.
  2. Yup, just got an probe set coming, the meter itself is working fine. Meanwhile, didn’t find anything obvious yet under the tape. No shorts between any of the wires or ground when I move them. It might change when I get some clips in tomorrow and can do more. Could be further in the harness as well.
  3. Thank you for the very clear directions! After getting stalled and stranded I plan on making this thing as correct as possible! I chose surfing tonight so haven't done much more. I am also waiting on a better set of probes with alligator clips from Amazon for my multimeter (for some pandemic-related reason, Fry's closed the electrical-everything section, WTF?) so I can get more clarity on what may or may not be broken...too hard with only two hands, I am pretty sure I am chasing a couple intermittent connections but not 100% sure. I like what you are thinking about the ground
  4. I mean, the other thing that’s happened here is I replaced the RR...
  5. Less exciting than I hoped. I may have just not held the probes steady last time. The solder under the shrink wrap is pretty solid. But I’ll check continuity from the RR tomorrow for sure.
  6. Ok, how about this one. Red/white is the charging line from the regulator rectifier. The other thing I've changed recently is a new MOSFET RR. Maybe I did that wrong (although I don't see how) and that plus the charging line intermittently breaking is bad. And since I have unfortunate recent experience...the last time, the battery ran the starter for quite a while before I got it pulled out. This time, it didn't last very long. It stopped (bike was on the ground, nothing to stop the rear wheel from turning) well before I got the battery out.
  7. Another thing of interest...the 30A in both relays got hot but didn’t break... Maybe two cheap relays in a row? I got mine from Amazon and it’s pretty much identical to what was in there before from the previous owner. But it had lots of reviews saying it worked fine, and I was pretty sure this was a freak thing.
  8. R/w is where he spliced it in, I assume that was a clip into the main harness there? Going back up stairs to look at the service manual diagrams in a bit. I’m cutting away the tape around the three connectors into the control side of the solenoid next. What’s that supposed to look like? Three free clips like this, or was it a clip at some point?
  9. Ok just getting into it. One of the repairs the PO made is he replaced the inline 30A fuse in the red cable off the battery (#12 in the parts diagram). When I squeeze some of that I can break the connection between the terminal and the fuse socket. It doesn’t have an obvious clip to connect to the harness anymore, it’s connected to a red/white line. What’s it supposed to look like? Found a photo of one on google with a clip. I assume this is all other power off the bike and it’s possibly why I dropped everything. BTW...the solenoid sticking “on” again was the last
  10. This is high on my list of things to do! It's not exposed right around the top end at the solenoid but I'm curious what's going on past that.
  11. I have zero ohms from one of the fuse terminals to both the motor and battery terminals (since they're stuck). I have continuity from the other fuse terminal to two of the spade terminals, the lower two, away from the fuse block and power terminals. I only had three spade connectors in and one of those two was not in use though (the right, lower one). After going through two relays...I couldn't say I was 100% about it even if I was 🙃 It's possible that it's part of the problem twice over.
  12. The one I removed last night. Not the previous one that I also thought failed, I'm looking for it next though. Concur it's not the root cause...I think the last phase of whatever happened last night might have been the relay fusing again. I'm just tinkering with what I can while I'm dialed into a meeting...
  13. I know, I know, I'm just looking for that nuclear option 😄 The cables you are referring to are for my heated jacket...unfortunately the only cable change from me. I have no idea what the others are. I Googled around for stock harness photos and it's obvious a lot of work has been done here. It sort of looks like the stock harness but even the inline fuse box looks different. Here's the thing though, if the 30 amp fuse and all three spade connectors are out, and I still have power going to the starter? It was going until I got the battery out (again), and when I w
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.