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Grum

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Grum last won the day on November 12 2019

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About Grum

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    Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Check you have good solid Grounds for your lighting system (Grounds = Effectively ZERO Ohms back to the Negative Battery terminal). If the headlights ground is poor it could mean you'll apply 12v to the Hi Beam Indicator turning it On, even when Lo Beam is selected. Confirm you have 12v at the Hi Beam relay Blue wire when hi beam selected and make sure the relay coil ground side is properly grounded. Any doubts about the relay swap it with any of the others they are all the same.
  2. You may have blown globes, but the Hi Beam Indicator is the interesting one. Do you have the wiring diagram for your bike? The power for the Hi Beam indicator is from the Hi Beam relay when it's energised. So if Hi Beam is NOT selected the Hi Beam relay should Not be energised and the indicator should be OFF. There could be a chance that the relay contacts have shorted. You need to check with a voltmeter if you have a permanent 12v at the Blue wire of the dimmer switch (or the Hi Beam relay base, probe the Blue wire, if that's easier to get at) as this is what energises the Hi Beam Relay. You should ONLY see 12v on this wire when Hi Beam is selected, if you have 12v on the Blue wire all the time (with Ignition to ON), then your Dimmer Switch is faulty. If all seems normal at the Dimmer Switch try swapping the Hi Beam Relay with the Lo Beam Relay. If doing that turns the Hi Beam indicator to OFF you've diagnosed a faulty relay. Poor Grounds for your lighting system could create strange effects, check that you lighting grounds are good. And just for the hell of it make sure Fuses F 20amp and G 10amp are O.K. Get back to us with what you find. Cheers.
  3. Try disconnecting the Green Blue wire, and just patch in a new wire from as near the instrument as possible and the other end to the Sensor. Run your bike and see how the gauge performs. If all is ok, and you cant find where the short is on the original wire, then just make your new wire permanent.
  4. Grum

    Grangeville, ID farmland

    Top shot Cogswell, superb. Love the sword silver 6gen. I'm guessing a 2008 model? Cheers.
  5. Make sure you have good continuity of the Green/Blue wire, zero ohms from the Sensor up to the Instrument panel as this wire goes through a couple of connectors you may just have a bad connection, or a short to frame. Failing that and if you're confident the Sensor is good then it points to a faulty gauge or its internal connections in the instrument cluster.
  6. Ha Ha. Dank Je Dutchy, I did that but Murphy wouldn't help me with that one!
  7. What I was saying is that it's unlikely you'll get a deep and throaty sound from a short pipe on an 8gen as compared to the longer length pipe on a 6gen. That's not saying that the sound will be worse on an 8gen, just different, I love the sound from my IXIL on the 8gen, it's just not as deep as the sound I had on my 6gen with Delkevic pipes. Aftermarkets for the 8gen are generally much lighter, look better and sound nicer, so why not go for an aftermarket pipe? The only time my bike will have its original pipe back on is possibly when I sell it!
  8. Welcome reddccrew. Great pair of bikes, always loved the 6gen in the Black, very nice. There are many small pipe options for the 8gen and yes you do need to be sure that whatever you fit does Not interfere with the pannier. Check through this and many other 8gen threads to see exhaust options. Personally I have the IXIL and very happy with it, it also works fine with the OEM panniers which I have, you also have the option of fitting one or two or none of the noise reducers in the pipes. My thoughts are that you won't get a deep rumble sound like the 6th gen because of the shorter pipe length of the 8gen, especially if you looking for the shortest pipe for your 8gen to show off the wheel. It's a bit like the Pipe Organ effect, the deeper base notes are from the longer pipes. Good Luck and hope you enjoy the new 8gen, they are a fabulous bike. Cheers
  9. On a recent over night trip with a group of riders, I packed up the panniers in the morning to head off for home, BUT for some reason, my R/H pannier locking handle just would not fully retract to the full down locked position, no matter what I tried, the handle would sit about 20deg above the locked down position, it was obvious something had jammed the internals of the case handle, and, without a T20 Torx Key and a 4mm Allen key I couldn't go any further to disassemble the whole locking mechanism. Fortunately a buddy (who lives near me) on his BMW R1200GS was able to strap the case to his bike and get it home for me. After unscrewing all the internal Allen and Torx screws the mechanism was easily removed. The cause of my issue was obvious, a classic case of Murphy's Law, a perfectly wedge shaped stone, the perfect size to jam itself in the handle track (see photo). How this rock even entered the pannier is a bit of a mystery. I've now added a T20 Torx Key and a 4mm Allen key to my bikes tool kit, just incase this ever happens again when out riding. Cheers.
  10. Just for info. For over 40 years I've always applied grease or oil to the wheel stud threads on both bikes and cars, have never torqued a wheel nut in all that time, just tightned to a good solid tightness based on the nut size. I've never experienced a wheel nut coming loose or a wheel nut seize onto the stud or a stripped thread. The first thing I do after getting a new set of tires on the car is to go around every wheel nut and back them off, then retightened them to my liking. So often the pneumatic impact tool they use just applies excessive tightness. A similar analogy are those who feel the need to torque an oil filter or the oil drain plug, with a good feel for proper tightness, torquing these components is not necessary. As always YMMV. Cheers.
  11. Hi Alex welcome and lucky you to end up with Dads bike, you better post a few pictures. You'll find heaps of info on the 5th gen forum as well as being able to download the full Service Manual. Look after that bike and it will look after you. Enjoy the ride. Cheers.
  12. M8. You appear to have scored every accessory for the 8gen under the sun! Just do a bit of Googling on the part numbers, will help you identify what's what. Do you have the Tool Kit which should be under the seat cowl? Hope you also got the pillion seat, it's a gym girl requirement?
  13. Yep only for the exhaust side case.
  14. Sorry can't help you much other than to say the A01 supercedes the A00. Also numerous sites talk of both A00 and A01 being only a 3 step heating control! The 8gen has 5 step. Perhaps some tech feedback from Honda America might be needed. Can you e-mail Honda Customer Support? Hopefully a member who has installed the kit might chime in with some advice.
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