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Grum

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Grum last won the day on February 23

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About Grum

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    Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Excellent info there BLS and Cogswell. No doubt Honda have gone to great trouble designing their intake systems, the tuned airbox, different length intake funnels and the variable air intake control (flapper). I've keep both snorkel and flapper systems intact on all three of my 6gens. However, based on Honda removing the flapper on the 2017 8gen, I decided to do the same to my 8gen some 30,000k's ago, purely to free up extra space under the tank area. My seat of the pants dyno! has noticed No detrimental effect in performance or fuel economy. I've always belie
  2. Hi Howtech. A common issue here can be a poor electrical connection at the fuel pump itself. Make sure the two wire connection is clean and good. Make sure the Green wire is properly Grounded AND you are seeing a solid 12v at the Brown wire for two to three seconds every time you turn your Ignition to On. You could also be seeing an intermittent fuel pump issue, but first concentrate on good electrical connections first. Also, what is the status of your MIL light (EFI fault light). Is it flashing a code, or fully ON when the fault occurs, or just remains off after
  3. And that's exactly why I mentioned this twice to the OP!
  4. Wow, will be keeping a close eye on this project, all the best with it Ronsk, sorry can't help with the paint codes.
  5. Appears Fuse G was faulty. Refer to this additional thread.
  6. Thats good news. Glad it was a simple fix. I assume your fuse 4 is actually Fuse G 10amp. The one mentioned a few times! Strange you said you had checked and replaced every fuse! Enjoy your ride.
  7. According to DTC 27 for the valve, engine ops are normal.
  8. Service Manual shows how to check the valve off the bike. The solenoid seems to be extremely reliable, have never heard of one failing on a 6 or 8gen. Guess a dyno check would also verify vtec ops. You could also try unplugging the valve test ride the bike and then compare how it performs with it plugged in.
  9. Then go to plan B and work through fault finding the headlights as suggested this should find where your fault is. Think you should first verify you have 12v at both sides of Fuse G. Black meter lead to the Battery Negative, Red meter lead probing the two small test points on top of the fuse. Keep us posted.
  10. And even if the VLC Solenoid was unplugged it would flag up a DTC of 27. VTEC transition has been improved over the 6gen, but you should still feel a noticeable increase in power when you're in the zone.
  11. Wish you'd kept this under your original topic! No need to have another thread, info can get lost with multiple threads. Don't make assumptions that you think its a "relay fault" or the short has taken out "the entire system". The fact your bike starts and runs means the vast majority of your electrical system is fine. Any short situation will normally take out a fuse - That's what they are there for, to protect the wiring. Make simple voltage and ground measurements to find the fault. Are you absolutely sure All fuses are Good? Particularly Fuse
  12. Well its a bit of a disgrace that Honda have not released a Technical Service Bulletin to advise all service agents that the valve inspection interval has changed, especially if this goes back to the 2014 model. There does appear to be plenty of good evidence for extending the interval. But why Honda hasn't made this common knowledge to there service agents is strange. Bit like VFR78, the mystery continues!
  13. For all those lights to be dead AND you don't have a blown fuse then you most likely have a Ground fault. There is no relay that controls all those lights! Only your two Headlight relays. The common link between all these lights is the Ground for them and Fuse G 10amp ! Go through measuring the grounds of your lights. Make sure you get zero ohms/continuity back to the negative terminal of the battery for every Ground you check. Do you have the Service Manual? You can download it from the forum. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?
  14. Sounds like some form of thermal issue - dies when the engine warms up? Does the bike cut out instantly or does it cough splutter then dies? This could separate a fuel/carby issue from ignition/electrical fault! If you are able to crank the bike over at good speed then your battery is probably ok. Get your engine running and measure your battery voltage to determine the status of your charging system. There are a number of issues that could cause your fault, faulty kill switch, Ignition module, sidestand switch, neutral switch, fuel pump, ignition switch, po
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