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Grum last won the day on July 13

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About Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Sorry! You said you've done the Flapper mod and you're not sure wether it's the vacumm line or the fuel tank vent! Ummm wouldn't your flapper Vaccum hose be blocked OFF at the end if you've removed it? Wasn't the Tank Vent Hose and the Filler Overflow attached to the tank before you removed it to fit your Fuel Pump? You should have three drain hoses at the bottom of your bike these are the Tank Vent, Coolant Resevoir Overflow and the Fuel Filler Overflow. You should be able to easily work out what's what just from following these hoses back! Good luck hope you're up and running soon!
  2. So the point I was getting at is, to see what your charging system is really doing you should monitor it at the battery and you've just proven that. Looks like you are seeing some voltage drop through lead length, connectors etc for BOTH ground and positive, they all add up! Looking at the Fluke Meter readings at the Battery, it appears your charging system is good. Idle RPM needs to be 1200rpm, when engine up to temp.
  3. Great looking ride Mack. Glad you got the Deluxe version, you'll love it. Welcome to the forum
  4. Hi Ladajo. Looks good. You've wired your meter into the Bank Angle Sensor plug!. Have you tried comparing the voltage directly on the battery using your multimeter and the voltage displayed on your added voltmeter? Is there any difference? I'd be interested to know if your seeing exactly the same voltage. You might not be seeing a true reading of what the R/R is sending to the battery.
  5. Hi Rollos. Hope they have it all sorted for you. But, if ever you see those heady height temperatures and the fan is not running. Swap the Fan Relay with the Headlight Relay, they are physically right next to each other. Good Luck. Cheers
  6. Due to the cold and crappy weather, had the urge to tinker with the bike. Added a beefy Ground bonding wire, see white wire with yellow lug. Decided to grab a short length of aircraft spec 10gauge wire I had floating around, and install a good bonding cable from the EFI, ECM and stuff Ground point (on the Frame Ground Point just under the rear of the tank - see attached drawing) to the Negative battery terminal. Bad Grounds on bike frames have in the past caused strange things to happen(not with my own bike fortunately) just wanted to avoid that situation ever happening for good. Well, at least it kept me occupied and off the streets for an hour or so Cheers.
  7. Hi VFROZ. 8gen is very different. There is no temp switch on the radiator. The ECM sees coolant temp from the ECT sensor and sends a grounding output from the ECM to a Fan Relay to energise it. Cheers and Regards. Grum
  8. Hi Rollos. I'm still a little concerned for the Fan Relay. The tests you ran getting the engine excessively hot and the Fan did NOT come on is a concern. I just wonder wether the Relay is intermittent or developed high resistance contacts that could slow your fan down. Maybe with the replacement fan, the Relay could or should also be replaced on spec as well. Perhaps you could mention this to Honda. Just a thought! Good Luck and hope it's all sorted ASAP. Cheers.
  9. Ok, so if the Neutral Light is stable and doesn't flicker or carry on when the fault is present then the Neutral switch would appear to be OK. IF YOU ARE ABLE TO CRANK YOUR ENGINE 100% OF THE TIME WITH SIDE STAND UP AND CLUTCH PULLED IN. Then other than wiring or connections it points to an intermittent open circuit Clutch Diode. You might have a poor connection at the Diode as it just plugs in like a fuse. TRY THIS - Locate the Diode unit in your Fuse Box. Simply and carefully remove and ROTATE it 180deg and insert, hopefully if it's not keyed you can rotate 180deg. This will swap the two diodes around to see if this has any effect on your fault situation. Perhaps a squirt of WD40 on the Diode blades or the socket might help any poor connection. If you can't rotate the device because it's keyed, then check the diodes with your multimeter. Select diode range on your multimeter and with the Black probe on the B point and Red lead on either A or C you should get a reading, and both A and C should read the same. Now swap your leads around (Red lead on B)and there should be NO reading for A and C. If it appears normal try blowing some warm air from a hairdryer to heat up the diodes and recheck with your meter. If you have any doubts about the Diode, replace it with a new one, I really think your issue is associated with the Clutch Diode OR its wiring from the Diode to the G/R wire connection at the Starter Relay. You can check this by making sure you have good Continuity from the Diode Anode (G/R wire side) back to the Starter Relay. The 2 photos are showing you what you should see on your meter when you check a Diode which is in effect a One Way Valve. First photo shows the Diode conducting, allowing current flow. Second photo with the meter leads swapped is the blocking effect ie no current flow. You should see the same results when you check your Diodes, if not you've found a dud Diode. Good luck. Let's know how you get on.
  10. Grum

    Bypass ID

    Reckon you should repair the clutch switch wiring and not bypass it, you're creating a potentially dangerous situation.
  11. Sounds like your clutch diode might be faulty, OR, If your issue is more of an intermittent one, then it might be a dicky Neutral Switch. That means the only ground source for your starter relay is through the Side Stand UP and Clutch pulled in, which is the way you get around the problem. Does your Neutral Light work normally when the fault is there? If when in Neutral it does NOT illuminate then it will be the Neutral Switch or its wiring. Do you normally Start with the Clutch "Engaged" assume you mean pulled in, because without the clutch lever pulled in the Side Stand Switch has NO effect on the Starter Relay energising. Provided the Neutral Switch and the clutch diode is OK, there's no need to pull the clutch for starting. The ECM will kill the engine if it sees the side stand as Down AND the bike is NOT in Neutral. The drawing below is only showing the Starter System, it doesn't show the inputs from the Neutral Switch, Side Stand Switch and Clutch Switch going into the ECM which it uses for Engine Kill logic. If you look at the G/R wire (GROUNDING wire)of the Starter Relay it has two paths it can get a Ground from to energise the Starter Relay. 1 - via the clutch Switch (pulled in) then through the Side Stand up position. And. 2 - Via the Neutral Switch (In Neutral) through the upper Diode to the G/R wire. Lets know what your Neutral Light is doing when your bike is playing up. It will help diagnose where your problem might be. NOTE drawing shows Clutch Switch in the clutch lever pulled IN state. Hope this helps Cheers.
  12. Could well be a shorted cell. If you noticed your bike was cranking over OK with all the starts you did and it didn't have an indication that cranking was getting slower and slower then it points to a shorted cell which will rapidly kill the ability to crank the engine. The other thing is that if you were able to push start your bike and ride any distance this would mean your charging system is probably OK. A dead battery AND no charging system = No ride! Also make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. So really, until you're sure you have a good battery in the bike, you can then verify your charging system is working correctly. If with a good battery you're seeing low charging volts then you can start to look at a Stator issue or the R/R or both. Cheers.
  13. Overall the VTEC transition has been greatly improved on the 8gen when compared to the 6gen. Is there any chance you could test ride another 8gen as a comparison. Can honestly say I'm not experiencing what you've described on my own 8gen.
  14. You don't know the age and state of the battery, it may be a simple issue of a dead battery, charge and load test it and once you can start your engine check your charging voltages. You may not need a new R/R yet!
  15. That's good news hope you'll be back on the road again shortly. So your motorcycle place where you had all the work done had left the faulty ECM in and did not diagnose a faulty fuel pump! - interesting! AND - make sure you properly repair that horrible splice to the Black/Pink wire which is the main power feed to ALL the EFI. Keep us posted.
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