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Grum last won the day on September 10

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    Sunbury Australia
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    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Are you really sure about that ducnut? Can you be absolutely sure with a cheaper Asian blue automotive coolant that it has no silicates and borates and really meets the Honda spec? For an important job you may do every 5 years or so is it really worth the risk in saving a few bucks? Surely just having the confidence of using a known Honda spec coolant is well worth the extra? I personally would not take the risk. As always YMMV.
  2. +1 The only stuff I've used in VFR's premixed and ready to go.
  3. Thanks for the update. I could make a bit of a guess and say that, perhaps disabling the Variable Air Intake (flapper now fully open) may be what has solved it. The flapper is normally Closed during low to medium RPM's, add to that a possible diry airfilter with poor flow then you would certainly expect some performance issues. Your original Airfilter is 7 years old, how many miles? Possibly well overdue for replacement, good you have a new one on order. At high RPM's the flapper is fully Open and this is the zone where you are not having issues. Or perhaps the addition of Seafoam has gotten rid of some fuel moisture contamination? Good luck keep us posted of any further findings.
  4. Good point. Can't really answer that, good chance it will increase corrosion within the tank as well as the potential to absorb moisture because of its hygroscopic nature, who knows how this may effect components in the pump and fuel lines. Possibly the reason why he had to replace the injectors as two of them wouldn't pulse. Do some research on "Phase Separation" issues with Ethanol blended fuels!
  5. Ah Ha......This appears to be a Revelation!...... Fuel Flow Inspection test is on the Return Line NOT the Main Line. Looks like your bike is not starting due to inadequate fuel rail pressure! Think you should have addressed the issue of No Return Line Fuel Flow way back, would have saved an awful lot of unnecessary checking and testing! Assuming you don't have a completely blocked return hose, you could have a stuck closed FPR, or more likely a faulty Pressure Relief Valve within the pump or some other fault with the pump itself. Have a good read of the Technical Features section pages 21-20 to 21-22.
  6. 19v at the Battery! You're very lucky it didn't destroy both battery and your ECM. Glad you have it sorted.
  7. Hi Enzo. Have you downloaded the Service Manual from the forum? Pages 19-10 to 19-12 explain how to test the sensor. You might also have a poor connection of the sensor at the LCD that it plugs into. Check the plug, make sure the connections are good. Is everything else with the LCD working correctly? Make sure the 6 LCD mounting screws are clean and making good contact with the connections to the PCB copper tracks. Are you sure that it is mounted correctly into the fairing as it does sit close to the right radiator! Good luck.
  8. I do know of a 6gen situation of rough running under 5000rpm. Even though the spark plugs looked good, replacing them cured the problem. 6 and 8gen plugs are identical except for the center electrode being projected in the 6gen IMR9B-9H, 8gen is IMR9D-9H.
  9. Some good checking there Jr. However, Spark Plugs, your Front Right is not cylinder 3 its 4, and Rear Right is not 4 its 3. FRONTS = 2 Left and 4 Right. REARS = 1 Left and 3 Right. Coils 1 and 3 are mounted close together. Is there any chance you've accidently crossed the primary wires over? - Check that all coil wires are the correct color code. All coils have a Black/White +12 feed wire and the other wire is switched ground via the ECM. Coil 1 = Blue/Black wire. Coil 2 = Yellow/White wire. Coil 3 = Red/Blue wire. Coil 4 = Red/Yellow wire. - Confirm these wires and confirm the high tension spark lead is going to the correct cylinder. - Double check all your throttle body hoses. Are the two L shaped vent hoses for the starter valves connected to the underneath of the airbox? Confirm the vacuum hose is good and connected to the MAP sensor. - Confirm your injector wires are the correct color code for the appropriate cylinder. As per the ignition coils all injectors have the Black/White +12v feed wire and the other is a switched ground via the ECM. So... Cylinder 1 Rear Left = Pink/Blue wire Cylinder 2 Front Left = Red/Yellow wire Cylinder 3 Rear Right = Pink/Green wire Cylinder 4 Front Right = Pink/Black wire. Make sure these are correct. - With reference to your wet plugs for cylinders 3 and 4 the two right side cylinders. Try removing and blocking off the vacuum hose from the FPR. This will completely eliminate the FPR potentially leaking and flooding 3 and 4, and this shouldn't have an effect on the engine at least starting, worth a try! - The injectors you've replaced, are they an exact replacement for the OEM's? - As you've had the throttle bodies off, check that the throttle body connecting boot clamps are tight and not letting additional air in. Lastly are you still NOT seeing any Fi flashing codes? You must have the Sidestand down, Kill switch to Run, and Ignition switch to On before any active code will be displayed. Definitely keep your battery well charged with all the testing and cranking you're doing. Good luck, keep us posted.
  10. Excellent video kbear, one I think every motorcyclist should see. Personally have only ever used m/c specific oils for the reasons described in the video. Don't see why you'd contemplate or risk using a car oil when there are so many excellent m/c oils out there. As always and especially with oil! YMMV.
  11. Agree Terry. My mention of closed when hot was to the point of the idle stop screw position, yes there still has to be air bypass via the SV's for warm idle, they are never fully closed the engine couldn't idle if that was the case. In my earlier post I mentioned - "As engine temp rises the Starter Valves are moved to the Closed position and stop at the warm idle adjustment setting" Sorry for any confusion. Cheers.
  12. Thought about that to, however his pump flow test was good.
  13. Wow, incredibly fast ECM delivery. Glad you're back to having your Fuel Pump prime again. Further to what Danno has suggested..... - Just thinking might well be worth trying a new set of plugs, they could be fouled, make sure they are the correct type. NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9. - Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor, and all other vac hoses are in correct position and no leaking, cracked or kinked hoses, there is a hell lot of vacuum hose plumbing around a 5gen throttle body! - What is the state of the airfilter? Clean or was the said "mouse nest" in it? - Did you fully drain and clean the tank of what was in there before filling with fresh fuel? With the replacement ECM you will definitely need to confirm both Spark and all Injectors firing. Good luck.
  14. All of your steps can be negated by simply confirming that you have solid 12v at the FCR on the Black/White wires with Ignition to On. Your step 5 has, in a roundabout way confirmed that. As already mentioned...There is no need to worry about the ESR or BAS!!! You should be probing the Black/White wire and your other black meter lead should be on a known Ground or preferably the battery Negative terminal. Not the Brown wire which is the power wire for the Fuel Pump! If probing the Brown wire with the relay fitted (with the other meter lead grounded), then you would normally ONLY see 12v on that wire for about 2 to 3secs at switch on while the FCR is energised by a good ECM. If you're not getting this then it points to a stuffed ECM. TRY THIS - So, now if you have the FCR fitted, and everything else is back to normal, and you try an Ignition Switch On with the Kill Switch to Run, If the fuel pump does not prime, and perhaps the red Fi light could be fully ON. You have blown the ECM. As previously stated, if either of the mentioned fuses haven't blown, then the only thing stopping them from blowing when you applied the ECM short, is blowing open the Ground link the ECM makes internally to control the FCR! = Dead ECM. For Info - After the 2 to 3sec Fuel Pump prime at switch on. The ECM will ONLY energize the FCR to run the Fuel Pump if it is detecting Crank Shaft pulses, during cranking and run conditions. I sincerely hope that if you do need a new ECM that the replacement is guaranteed to be fully functional?
  15. They are definitely closed when hot. Starter valves only have an effect at small throttle openings and are balanced at normal operating temps to ensure optimum warm idle and small throttle opening is evenly effected by the SV's. Note - The 5gen SV's I believe are best set with an offset check the forum for this, whereas 6gen and 8gen SV's are set balanced. Post Edit 8th Oct. - For clarification, SV's are Never Fully Closed. They are moved towards the closed position but stop at the idle speed adjustment screw setting. SV bypass air is required for warm engine idle, if they were fully closed engine would stall.
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