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Grum

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Grum last won the day on July 8

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About Grum

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    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Hi Hubert. Owners manual states 10% Ethanol maximum. However old carburetors, rubber seals etc. hate Ethanol! Not a fuel you want sitting in your tank or carburetor for long periods. Hygroscopic, corrosive, phase separation are just some of the issues with Ethanol blended fuel. Avoid it if you can!
  2. Sad to see your beautiful 8gen sleeping like that! What made it fall? Are you on a downhill slope and the bike rolled forward off the side stand? Strong wind gusts? Hope there's no other damage than the clutch lever. If you're not going with OEM to only replace the clutch lever, and you're going aftermarket to replace both clutch and brake then make sure they are compatible to the 8gen. Important that both Brake and Clutch switches operate normally.
  3. Here's a view from the 2005 6gen parts list, item 6 shows the rubber tank arrangement for the fuel pickup.
  4. Bloody disgraceful, as Skids states and threaten them with legal action. Might be worth seeking professional legal advice. Honda customer service should also be made fully aware of your situation and seeking their support. Sorry to hear of their gross incompetence after 8 weeks of waiting. They shouldn't be in business after what you've experienced.
  5. Sorry to hear the FPR didn't fix your issue. It is a fairly common fault in older vfr's that can cause anything from excessive fuel consumption to very poor, rough running. As mentioned a ruptured diaphragm will caused excess fuel to enter 3 and 4 throttle bodies (the two right side intakes) via the FPR vac hoses, not just around the intake in the airbox. You should have checked to see if you had fuel in the vacuum hoses from the FPR or fuel dripping from the FPR vacuum inlet, before replacing it! The hose you are pointing to is the Crankcase Breather hose and this comes in next to number 3 intake. Have you downloaded the Service Manual? So apart from the high fuel consumption. How does the bike perform? Just curious but why does the intake funnel in your photo have broken plastic where the mounting screws go, haven't seen damage to the funnels like that before? As to why you have raw fuel entering at this point I'm not too sure. Hopefully some more experienced members will give you better advice. Good luck.
  6. Hi Terry. Any chance you can directy attach the picture? The long link tells me to sign in with a Google account! Would like very much to see it. Cheers.
  7. Think you are onto it, especially as you have a non oem pump. I wonder if the whole assembly has been replaced or only the pump? Attached is the fuel pump description taken from the 5gen Service Manual, I'm sure the 6gen won't be too different. It specifically states the pickup is within its own tank to prevent the issues you've had. Perhaps this tank is missing around your mesh filter.
  8. Prachtig Dutchy. Very special bike your SP2. Must be a joy to ride. Sadly in many aspects Honda's "Power of Dreams" has become more of a disappointing nightmare than a dream! Apart from one or two, Honda currently has the worst bike selection I've ever seen IMHO!
  9. Good news thanks for the feedback. Glad you have the VFR's health back to full strength, and it was a simple fix. Hope you can get your own health back to 100% asap, keep covid safe.
  10. As Danno rightly states. FIRST make sure all the vacuum hosing to the MAP sensor is good. No cracks, breaks, kinks, blockages or leaks. Your MAP, BARO, IAT and TP Sensors rely on a stable 5v VCC from the ECM this is on your Pink Wire and confirmed as good. You have also confirmed the Signal Ground being the Green/Orange wire is good. Confirm you have good continuity ie zero ohms for the Light Green/Yellow wire between the MAP connector and the ECM connector. After thoroughly checking the vacuum hoses and the Light Green/Yellow wire for continuity. Suggest you apply some CRC 2-26 or WD-40 or a small amount of Ox-Gard to the pins and sockets of the MAP sensor. And maybe a light spray of WD-40 or the CRC 2-26 at the ECM plug for the MAP wires. Don't recommend using "Tuner Wash" for sensitive electrical connections!! Failing that, fit a new MAP sensor. Or swap it with the Baro sensor. Good Luck.
  11. Good point you raise HareBrain. No doubt about it, should you be unfortunate enough to get some form of blockage in the pressure relief port, excessive tank pressures can build and cause damage. "Fuel dripping from the overflow hose" Are you referring to the hose from the filler overflow Or the Breather hose? I can only guess that if you were getting fuel out of the breather hose that you may have just filled up to very near the top and had the bike in the sun. Can't see how you could have that condition say with half or three quarters of a tank full. Again SLIGHT hiss to no hiss when opening the cap is normal.
  12. Hi All. Further to this old Archived Thread which can't be updated. Just wanted to clear up a few issues after doing some further investigation today. Can confirm that both the Pressure Relief Port AND Vacuum Relief Ports in the filler cap have a one way valve in them which are lightly spring loaded. Pressure Relief - The common noise we all have heard, and as one member puts it "sounds like the Fuel Pump is priming with power off" or just a few second buzz, fluttering or gurgling sound. This is coming from the Pressure Relief Valve in the filler cap as the tank pressure builds and overcomes the spring tension on its valve. This process will continue to repeat any time slight positive pressure builds in the tank. As you stop a warm engine the heat transfer to the tank causes this to happen more frequently and if you open the filler cap in between the venting you'll always get a very slight pressure relief. Vacuum Relief - Negative Pressure relief also has to overcome slight valve spring pressure as the fuel level drops while riding. On cold days when topping up your tank you may notice very slight suction as you open the tank cap. So depending on temperatures and riding conditions it is Normal to have either slight Vacuum OR slight Pressure as you open the cap. The emphases being SLIGHT. Blocked, Kinked or crushed Breather Hose = DANGER! The problem with the 8gen is the first 12 inches or so of small diameter breather hose. When the Fuel Tank is raised to the maintenance position, the hose is pulled up through a lot of piping and general clutter in this area. If this hose is not manually pulled outwards at the small to large hose coupling taking up the slack as the tank is lowered, you run the chance of a blocked kinked breather hose. See photo. The nasty effects of a blocked breather cannot be overstated on these bikes! - Strong Vacuum, can make it impossible to open your filler cap. The Fuel Pump has enough strength in increasing the vacuum while riding to physically damaging your tank, bending the sides inwards. - Whilst having the bike in the sun strong positive pressure can distort the underneath of the tank deforming it outwards. Or virtually blasting the filler cap open as you unlock it. Any signs of strong pressures, negative or positive when opening the filler cap is a warning to check the breather hose. Cheers.
  13. Good Info. Danno what's your thought on his cam alignment?
  14. Have to be Hot........that thing would take 6 weeks to cool down! Can't wait to see the frame, wheels etc. arrive, gonna be an awesome bike.
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