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Grum

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Grum last won the day on September 27

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About Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Starter Relay part no. Is 35850-MT4-000 or 35850-MT4-003. This is the same Starter Relay as used in 5th and 6gens. Partzilla.com show them as in stock $73.26 Refer item 9.
  2. Thats weird! Any respectable mechanic would/should never overtighten a chain!! Err on the slightly loose side, but never overtightend. With the bike having 20k miles and the EK chain not being OEM you'd assume the chain should be healthy given EK are a high quality long life chain. I guess however, like the bike itself, you never really know how the original owner cared for it. Set the chain to it's correct tension. However the clicking noise may well be related to bad sprockets or chain or both! Sorry can't add to what's already been suggested regards gear shifting.
  3. Sounds terrible! Have you confirmed with all the work done that the Injectors and Ignition coil plugs are on their correct positions? They can be identified by a single wire colour code for each plug. (refer your wiring diagram). Injectors. Cylinders.. 1= Pink/Blue. 2= Red/Yellow. 3= Pink/Green. 4= Pink/Black. Ignition. Cylinders.. 1= Blue/Black. 2= Yellow/White. 3= Red/Blue. 4= Red/Yellow. Another thing to check for unburnt fuel is the Fuel Pressure Regulator for a ruptured diaphragm. This will dump excess fuel into cylinders 3 and 4 via the vacuum hoses causing terrible running. Check for any signs of fuel in the FPR vacuum hose or dripping fuel from the FPR vacuum connection. With a bike parked for over two years the injectors may have gummed up and require some professional cleaning and flow balancing. Assume your cam timing is exactly correct! Good luck.
  4. Great stuff Maccers all fixed and you don't need a replacement switch assembly. Glad you're Horny again!
  5. Ok sounds like you have an open circuit switch or a broken wire connection at the switch. Be well worth seeing if you can unbolt and assume you should be able split the switch assembly to get into the internals. Good luck.
  6. Hi All. Sorry to post this info again. But seeing the OP is referring to his 2014 8gen exactly like mine, and he most likely appears to have battery issues. Thought I might once more add this valuable info. Battery terminal voltage does not represent the true health of the battery, its capacity to deliver plenty of cranking amps when needed. Here's the OEM battery from my 8gen. It would charge ok with no errors from my intelligent charger yet was reluctant to crank the Starter. As you can see its voltage was 12.65v but failed miserably when load checked. The Battery rated at 210 cranking amps could only deliver 99amps. A new battery solved my cranking issues. So the bottom line here is, any doubts about your battery, charge it, remove it, and take it along to any good Automotive Parts store where they will Load Check it for free. For the Aussies - I had this test done at both Autobahn and Supercheap Auto. Cheers
  7. Hi Maccers. The horn is a fairly high current device, voltages need to be confirmed while pressing the Horn button and with the horn connected. Try this..... Unplug the Light Green wire. With your voltmeter black lead to a good ground, now probe the wire with meter red lead. Ignition to on and press the Horn button. Do you read 12v? - If No you need to follow this back through the switch and wiring back to the fuse to find out why! - If Yes plug the wire back onto the horn. Now measure the wire on the horn terminal press the horn button. Do you now read 12v? - If No you have a voltage drop situation. Now go to your Horn Fuse. On the top of the fuse are small metal test points. With Ignition on measure the 12v on the Fuse test points. Now press the horn button, what happens to the voltage? - if the voltages dies then refer below picture. - if the voltage is good then the voltage drop might be further towards the horn switch being the Black 9p connection you may have a poor power connection for the Black/Brown wire through this plug. Or poor switch contacts. And of course make sure both power and ground connections at the Horn and clean and tight! Added picture (6gen from memory) was the cause of bad voltage drop, no Horn ops and voltage at the fuse dies when pressing the Horn button. Connector was up towards Ignition Switch. Note the dirty blackened spade connector.
  8. Hi Paddy. - Have you tried starting the bike with the Sidestand Up and the Clutch pulled in? - And, is your Neutral Light working correctly? - Have you checked that the Battery Terminals are clean and tight? - I know you've tried jumping the battery with no success but how old is the bikes battery? And is it well charged? - If you have a voltmeter clip it to the battery terminals. What is the voltage and what does the voltage go to when pressing the Starter Switch? Answers will give a greater insight to your issue.
  9. Wow - Bloody Beautiful, green with envy.
  10. Hi Kevin. Yep as per Lorne. Fuel tank height restraint. Not really essential. Eyelet mounts under the tank just behind the front mounting bracket and the two front bolts.
  11. Thanks RC79 yep, may as well while doing the valves. Hopefully they won't need doing again till your nearing 200 thousand!!!!
  12. Just curious, were you hearing any strange noises typically caused by the CCT's or were they replaced just as a maintenance precaution?
  13. I feel for you losing Dad, tough times, but I'm glad you had perfect weather for your ride. 8gen on a lovely day, what could be better?
  14. While I have no idea of your local noise regulations. I can't believe there could be an issue. Aren't there thousands of obnoxious, deafening, sounding HD's riding around California?? A sweet sounding VFR is music by comparison!!
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