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Grum

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Grum last won the day on February 21

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About Grum

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    Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Agree with you Terry, but wether the filter is around one way or the other how could that have any effect on the check valve, especially seeing the OP is not leaking fluid and the brakes are operating normally?
  2. If your brakes are fine and you're not leaking fluid, does it make any difference which way it's around? It's only a fine wire filter, shouldn't effect its operation whichever way it faces you would think?
  3. Well said Cogswell. I hope the people at Honda Japan are hearing you and all our cries for the continuation of the mighty V4. Long live the VFR. Cheers.
  4. Don't discount your battery and/or poor connections. I know you've stated it cranks over fine, but on a cold start while cranking there might be minimal left for the EFI stuff to fire up. How old is your battery? and perhaps it's worth having it load tested, your local auto parts supplier can generally load test batteries. Many a strange issue has been caused by a battery down on capacity. Failing that I would be checking the 12v at the output from the Engine Stop Relay Black/White wire while cranking as this is the Main power feed to all EFI and ECM stuff. There is a critical voltage level (can't remember at what that is) where the fuel injectors will not fire. Wonder wether poor Starter Valve synch might be the cause your cold start situation? - just a thought.
  5. How old are your spark plugs and are you sure they are the correct type?
  6. Hmm. Haven't changed the fuel type you use lately have you? The high octane Premium Fuels can have an effect on cold starting especially in your very cold environment. Premium Fuels are far less volatile than your standard fuels 87/89 or whatever, so the fuel does not mix with air as readily making cold starts difficult. This might explain why you have no issues with hot starts.
  7. Correct, the Red wire via Main Fuse A is the main Power to your Ignition Switch as well as the permanent 12v supply to keep your clock ticking over. However ALL 12v are ultimately derived from the Battery or once the engine is running the R/R. The melty stuff for Main Fuse B, I guess could be exaggerated if your R/R was playing up, but then so to would your charging votltage be not correct! Fuse B is the supply feed for ALL the EFI stuff while Ignition is on without engine running, so you would imagine that once the engine is running there would be minimal current through the Fuse B as the R/R would tend to take over from the Battery. However, for whatever reason over time the Main Fuse B connections seem to suffer from either overheating or oxidisation to form hi resistance joints causing the burnt fuse and wiring issue.
  8. Think you've got yourself locked into some form of loop! One end of the Fuse MUST end up at the Battery Positive. The other MUST end up at the Positive Output of the R/R (as well as feeding various electrical loads via Main Fuse B). Either connection at Main Fuse B could create the melty wire syndrome depending on which of the two Fuse spade type connection develop a poor hi resistance contact. Am I making sense here?
  9. Sorry I no longer have a 6gen, however Fuse B which sits beside the Starter Relay should according to the diagram have a Red/Yellow wire and a Red/White connected to it. The Red/Yellow will either go directly to the battery Pos terminal OR the main heavy Positive Terminal of the Starter Relay. The Red/White wire from the fuse goes off to the Inline Connector ultimately connecting your R/R output to the battery. If your Fuse wire colours are the opposite meaning the R/W wire is connected to the Main Positive of the Starter OR battery positive and the R/Y wire goes to the Inline connector it won't matter jack s..t. As long as the connection is good.
  10. Hope this drawing helps. If there is a physical 4th electrical connection on the Starter Relay it might be giving you an added option to connecting to the Main Fuse A, as you can see there appears a second link from the Fuse within the Starter Relay however it only needs to supply the RED wire. Using a meter you could easily verify if this is so, also you can see that the "melty wire" goes from the battery positive terminal R/Y wire to main Fuse B then to an inline connector via the R/W wire. NOTE - The graphic for the 4P plug on the Starter Relay is confusing, it appears the RED wire is also feeding the Relay Coil, this is NOT correct, it's just the 4P Graphic for that type of plug! ONLY the Y/R and G/R wires feed the relay coil. Hope this answers your question. Cheers.
  11. Grum

    Pickup

    What year bike??? "Low Charge"??
  12. Keep us posted with whatever you find. Good luck. Cheers.
  13. Grum

    Pilot Road 2 clearance

    Interesting - December last year I went from the Road 5 back to a Pilot Road 2 and as Cogswell states the Road 2's have also been my go-to-tire. For my riding, the Road 5 offered no greater benifit over the PR2 and the PR2 was a fair bit cheaper. The manufacturing year of the Pilot Road 2 I had fitted is 2019 and made in Spain. Seems clear to me Michelin are still manufacturing the PR2 and not just flogging off old stock lying around. Check the manufacture date before having them fitted or ask what the date is before buying. Cheers. P.S. Michelin Australia web site still shows them. Rang Michelin and was informed they are still getting supplies of PR2's especially the 120/70/17 and 180/55/17, however he made the comment the American market could be quite different!!!!!
  14. I might be stating the obvious here, but have a very close look at your drive chain condition and its tension, a loose, dry or badly worn chain has been known to creating strange noises at particular speeds and loads. So, if you haven't found an internal engine noise as suggested above, then have a very good look at the state of the chain as well as its guides and sliders etc. Also make sure your Center Stand stopper mounted on the exhaust is not missing, this can cause the Center Stand to rise up higher and closer to the chain and potentially making a ticking contact! Have you tried riding in 6th gear with the noise then pull in the clutch (throttle back to idle of course!). Is the noise still there? Does it slowly dissappear as your speed drops? Does it stop instantly as rpm drops to idle? What's the situation with your bike on its center stand and running through the gears? Do you get the noise in 6th gear on the center stand? Good luck and hope you get it sorted.
  15. Lovely shot that, great old bridge, looks like magnificent VFR country. Did some googling, can't get my speech around the name of the river it crosses, the Ompompanoosuc River Bit tricky for an old Aussie lad!
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