Grum

???!!! Are you working with a wiring diagram of your bike???? You've stated twice your Starter Motor is working fine. Now you're saying all four Starter Relay contacts are shorted. If that was the case you'd Blow the Main Fuse instantly or destroy your Clutch Diode, and your Starter would never work? Doesn't make sense to me! Very easy to test the Starter Switch. With Ignition to On you should measure 12v at the Yellow/Red wire of the Starter Relay Every time you press the Start Switch.

Doesn't make sense that your Starter Switch is "moody" when you say "pressing the switch causes normal Starter Motor operation".

"Still have high temps" ? While the bike sits stationary idling? In stop/start traffic? All Normal. These bikes rely heavily on good coolish airflow through the radiators to maintain a constant temp of around 76 to 80 degC with an ambient temp of around 25degC or lower, on hotter days engine temperature will also rise. With a cold engine feel the upper radiator return hose at the neck. Start the engine, at around 76 to 80 deg you should notice the hose temperature rapidly rise. This will indicate both thermostat and water pump operation. Not sure if there is any way of checking it but perhaps fitting a new Radiator Cap might be worth doing, and I wouldn't trust that damaged hose you have!

Once burped. Top up the Reserve Tank, don't worry about overfillig it, the system will either draw back what it needs or any excess will be simply dumped overboard via the reserve tank overflow hose. just keep an eye on the Reserve Tank level, top up if needed, but the level should settle down after a ride or two. I'd be a little concerned about the hose burnt by the header pipe, needs sorting out! As Terry mentioned make sure your cooling fan is kicking in when it should. Download the Service Manual from this site if you don't already have one, link attached. Service Manual, 6th Gen 2002+ VTEC, with bookmarks, new cover & OCR https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/150-service-manual-6th-gen-2002-vtec-with-bookmarks-new-cover-ocr/

Interesting Partzilla (Honda Parts website), are specifying the -306 as a replacement for the ABS model. However, in 2016 my Instrument Panel was replaced under Warranty due to condensation forming under the faceplate. I have found the documents for the replacement panel and the Part Number fitted was a 37100-MJM-D11. So definitely go with that one. Note - All Australian 8gens have ABS and Traction control.

The answer is above! You need to fit the correct Instrument Panel Part No. 37100-MJM-306.

Not much detail in your fault description! - Are your tire pressures correct? - ABS is sensitive to battery status, is your battery and charging system good? - Are you saying that the ABS light remains On once bike speed is above 6mph? - Any physical damage to either of the Pulser Rings? - Are all four ABS fuses good? - Have you gone through the Service Manual for fault code checking? - Could the "work done" have effected ABS wiring and connections? - Was the issue there prior to work done? - What new sensor? Front or Rear? Did it have a fault code for the sensor? - Are the Sensor to Pulser Ring air gaps correct? - Have you checked all the ABS connections and connectors are clean and making good contact?

Hi Rick. I have a Red 2014 and have confirmed the Part No. Stamped on the actual cowl is 77281-MJM-D000. However its replacement Part No. is the 77283-MJM-D00ZC and the Pearl White being the D00ZA. While Partzilla are stating the starting numbers of 77283............ for both White or Red for the 2014 8gen. I can only suggest that as long as its the Pearl White that either a starting number of 77281 Or 77283 won't matter, no guarantee!

And if all of the above doesn't work check the dreaded Orange Ground block, its the main cause of many strange Ground faults.

Sounds like you may have already found the cause! A poor/high resistance joint, or damage to the Ground wire. Try clipping your voltmeter Black lead to the battery Negative, switch On your Ignition and measure the Ground you say you are loosing, if you're measuring a voltage then you've confirmed a bad Ground, definitely causing Ignitors 3 and 4 to fail. Perhaps as bmart mentioned a rodent has had a wire nibble, worth checking for any damaged wires. Without any visable damage, the difficulty is locating just where the Ground issue might be. It might require running a new Ground wire for the two Igniters. Or similar to the 5th gen Orange ground block the 6gen will have them as well. Here's where three different Ground blocks exist on various 6gen versions. See what you can locate on yours! These blocks are multiple Ground junctions and can develop burnt joints and poor connections causing various systems to become intermittent or complete failures. - Yellow one located behind the front cowl in the harness left side of the bike. - Orange one located behind the 18P Blue connector just above the left radiator - Gray one located in the harness just behind the Coolant Reserve Tank. Good Luck let's know how you get on.

And while you're doing as vfrgiving suggested. Both Tacho and Speedo share the same power source and ground source. So make sure at the mounting screws for both instruments you measure a good ground which goes back to the Green/Black wire, and 12v that goes back to the Brown/Blue wire and to Fuse G 10amp. Check for any corrosion on the PCB copper tracks. Refer partial drawing attached.

With all those various items not working, it sounds like you have a Ground issue. Check the yellow ground block (if it has one!) taped into the wire harness, located front left side of the bike. Make sure all pins and sockets are clean, no sign of oxidization or burnt connection. May require cutting the block out and soldering all of the wires together. Also check the Green ground wire going through the 18P Blue connector, located just above the left side radiator. See attached pictures. Make sure that any Ground wire has solid continuity, (virtually zero ohms) back to the battery Negative. Make sure that with power on, Ground wires have ZERO Voltage on them with respect to the battery Negative, voltage detected on a Ground wire means it's not properly Grounded. Good Luck.

How about a CRY FOR ANSWERS!....... Have you had any luck fixing your bike. Some follow up on the cause would be extremely beneficial to ALL of us.

Hi Joe. Beautiful VFR400R You Have. You might have an issue with Voltage drop somewhere for a Normal Neutral Start, could be a poor/high resistance connection. - Measure the 12v at the Ignitor Unit. - What does this voltage drop to as you crank the engine over? - Compare the voltage reading to the voltage measured at the Battery while cranking the engine over. How different are the measurements? Note - Keep the Black voltmeter lead on the battery Negative terminal.

No worries, here you go. Zip up the inside case then load it into the pannier. Works a treat, I can fit 4 to a panier without exceeding the weight limit of the pannier. Cheers.