Jump to content

Grum

Member Contributer
  • Content Count

    1898
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    45

Grum last won the day on July 9

Grum had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

662 Great

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

Recent Profile Visitors

7328 profile views
  1. Definetly feels and sounds like plastic so it's probably polycarbonate, very tough stuff. You'd be pretty unlucky to damage one, haven't heard of that happening on an 8gen, though I guess it could happen. You'll be right!! Enjoy your trip. Cheers.
  2. Hope the bike shop gets it sorted ASAP for you. Keep us posted with what they find. Vulcan 500, that would be a very different beast to the VFR!! Go easy on Mom's bike!
  3. Firstly you can clean the PCB with Methylated Spirits on a soft rag carefully wipe it down. - It looks like all three of those lower tracks don't look good. - It's difficult for me to see the tracks between the two points where you aren't getting continuity because of the folds in the tracks. But it is interesting that it's the Hi Beam light in question, and as I mentioned (way back) about whether the Hi Beam Indicator was playing up, as both Indicators and Hi Beam lights share the same ground connection, the break you are pointing to is that same ground. Continuity Checking. - You need to check meticulously each track from its start point being the two Main Electrical connections incoming points on the PCB to its end point which you'll just need to follow out. If you get continuity then move onto the next. If you Don't then it's a case of working backwards along the track to establish where the break is. Sorry if you already know this and have done it! Visual Check. - Have a Very Close look at ALL solder joints for cracks or poor joints, any suspect joint should be properly re-soldered. Use a magnifying glass to inspect all the copper tracks for cracks particularly in the areas of the 90deg folds. Those two other lower corroded tracks, apart from the one you've identified are going to need attention. Repair - How good are you at soldering????? - It's about knowing where the break is and soldering a small gauge link wire to re-establish the connection. If it's just a crack in the track, a good clean of each side of the track break, then a good dob of solder will do it. Or a short link of tinned copper wire can be soldered length ways along the track to complete the join. SERIOUSLY - If you are not competent with soldering and don't fully understand what I'm trying to explain. Take the panel to an Instrument Repairer, Auto Electrician or a skilled Electronics Technician that is capable of properly checking and repairing the panel. Otherwise you could do irreparable damage!!!! However if you are going to do it yourself, here is a method you can use to repair the break in continuity, using two lengths of small gauge insulated wire. Again, do not attempt this without being confident of what you're doing! Refer to the added letters on your picture. A - Solder a small wire at this point. NOTE - solder exactly where the Dash is next to the letter. B - You'll need to very carefully scrap away the corrosion to reveal bright copper and solder the other end of the wire to this point, nearest to the Globe socket as possible. Also you'll need to add another wire at this point B, then solder its other end to point C. - After doing this hopefully you should now have continuity From point D to point A and to both E and F being the Indicator Globe Ground. (measure where the letter dash is). The two other corroded lower tracks that need some attention just need a link wire soldered on the track from one side to the other which will bypass the corroded section. Do this to both of those tracks. Goods Luck. Hope this helps because I can't do much more with just a Keyboard!
  4. Did you say YELLOW! Wow next to Red that's the best looking colour. Make sure you post a nice photo of her. Cheers
  5. Hi Rayzrider. Welcome to the forum, ya better post a picture of your bike, always good to see what you're riding. Here's a couple of pictures for you, and wherever possible run any additional ground wire back to the battery negative terminal is always the best. Lower photo shows a very nice repair job. The orange block is located in the wire harness above the chain guard.
  6. Lucky you. That road is on my bucket list, sadly, my bike gently sleeps during this f...ing Victorian COVID lockdown. Have a great trip Phil, wishing you good weather, ride safe. Cheers.
  7. Any update on your bike? I'm still thinking it's a Fuel filter or pump issue. Maybe with all the country tripping you've done you may have picked up some dirty fuel along the way. Keep us posted. Cheers.
  8. Can't see an issue provided you don't start the engine. With the R/R output plug off its as dead as a Dodo without battery connection and incoming AC.
  9. Does this sound familiar? Think this might be your Answer. "Hi all, I have a problem with the lights/Indicators on my 1998 VFR800 FI. With the lights off the indicators work fine, but when I put the sidelight on the dashboard indicator lights and main beam warning lights glow. The indicators still work. When I put the headlights on, the dash lights glow brighter and when the indicators are used the wrong dash light illuminates. On main beam the dash indicator lamp does not show brightly. I have disconnected every connector I can find on the bike, cleaned the terminals and wd40'd everything. Have checked the earth point below the right hand side of the tank but dont know if there are any others. Everything was working fine before the bike was layed up for winter so I am at a loss. Any ideas would be most welcome." And the Fix. "Turns out to be a couple of bad tracks on the PCB. One broken & one dodgy. Soldered jumper wires across the bad bits and problems cured. The dash illumination lights are brighter than ever. " Sounds like a close inspection of the Instrument Panel PCB tracks are needed. Let's know how you get on. Good Luck.
  10. Sorry more questions! - Do the Position Lights in both Front Indicators illuminate normally? (Assuming they are in the Indicators!) - When the Panel Indicators come on or flash in the Fault state, are they dim or normal full brightness? It would be interesting to note the state of the Panel Indicators with Both Front Indicator bulbs removed? Does selecting Position lights still bring on the Panel lights after removing the two main bulbs? - Do you have a circuit diagram of your model. I just can't seem to find one? - Are your Indicator/Position lights a dual filament 21w/5w single globe as per the American,(see attached drawing) or two separate bulbs per side?
  11. Agree with Terry, it appears from what you're saying, your Ground Block is O.K. However, a Blue/White wire short to the Turn Relay Gray wire would place a permanent 12v on the Gray wire irrespective of light switch selection, which would screw the Indicator flashing operation all together I'm guessing. (Referring to the 5th Gen Service Manual wiring diagram). Also can you Please answer: - The Instrument Panel indicator lights are just repeats of the Main Indicators. So are the Main Indicator Lights doing exactly the same thing as the Instrument Panel lights? - Is there any chance the Front Indicator Lamps have been replaced recently? And possibly with the incorrect type? Your comment "Also if position lights are on both panel indicator lights will come continuously if no turn direction is selected." This makes me think there is something strange with the globes or Ground wiring for them. Left and Right Indicators are electrically isolated from each other(other than Grounds), both Main and Instrument Panel, and you are stating that Indicators are Normal provided the Position lights are OFF. It's only the Position Lights which send a voltage to BOTH left and right sides of the front globes at the Same Time. If there was a bad Ground for the two Front Globes then that could explain BOTH Panel indicators being continuously ON when Position Lights are ON. Do you have a Multimeter and know how to use it? Do a continuity check of the Green Wire of both Indicator Globe sockets. Your meter selected to lowest Ohms range, Black lead on the Battery Negative, Red lead to the Green Wire of the Globe sockets you should read Zero Ohms (Ignition switch to OFF).
  12. Nah, easy fix Mello, especially for a clever bloke like you, and all your ground woes will be gone. (Hopefully!) Here's a great example of the fix. Don't know who did it but its a very fine, neat example of soldering all the grounds together and adding an additional lead straight to the battery Neg terminal. Cheers.
  13. Sorry, don't have a 5gen but can you clarify a few things. - Aren't the headlights ON the moment your Ignition is switched ON? - What are the "side" lights? Are you referring to the Position Lights, which looking at the wiring diagram are also On with Ignition to ON, then individually switch on or off depending on your turn selection? - Are you saying the Instrument Panel indicator lights both flash without having made a turn selection at the switch? - Are they both flashing at normal brightness and at the flash rate of the normal indicators. OR are they a random flash? - And is it ONLY the Instrument Panel turn lights that flash, OR does the Hi Beam Indicator light do the same as the Turn Indicator lights? Many a strange Electrical effect has been caused by the common Ground Block, it's an Orange coloured rectangular plastic Ground junction point with many Green wires. Located on the left side wire harness above the Chain Guard. Would suggest a close inspection of the Ground Block might be a good starting point. Here's what it can look like!
  14. If you're trying to isolate the R/R, you should have remove the 3P Black connector with the Red and the Green wires! Otherwise it's still hanging off the Battery!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.