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Grum last won the day on March 18

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About Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Hi Dave What year is your bike ? Pre or post 1993? When the fault occurs have you tried starting the bike with the Side Stand Up and the Clutch pulled in? This could help to isolate an issue with the Starter Relay grounding? Supposing your bike starts once warm with the suggested method, then this could point to a heat sensitive faulty Clutch Diode. Otherwise you need to start using a multimeter to verify Ground and Power paths for the Starter Relay coil. Good luck and get back with what you find. Cheers.
  2. De nada. Looking forward to hearing how you go.
  3. Agree with sfdownhill. If you can't pick up an 8gen new that some dealership might have, then keep your eyes open for a well cared for low k's second hand job. What else are you going to buy that has a beautiful V4? Huge improvements in the 8gen over the 6gen. Good Luck. Cheers.
  4. Hi Zane. There is no maintenance schedule warning on these bikes. I suspect you have the "Mileage Countdown" function active. Pressing instrument panel Button A scrolls through - Odometer, Tripmeter A, Tripmeter B, Mileage Countdown. You need to make sure Mileage Countdown value is zero.(see top of page 23 to reset). Welcome to the forum - We need to see a picture of your bike. Cheers.
  5. I'm going to try a little grasping at straws here. I wonder if running premium hi octane fuel could be an issue here! Are you running these fuels? I know of cars NOT designed for Premium Fuels that can be very reluctant to start and idle poorly in cold conditions until warmed up. The reason is that Premium Fuels are not as volatile as normal standard unleaded, the colder the ambient temperature the worse this problem can become. Just something to think about, VFR's run happily, and are designed for standard unleaded. (Not mentioning Ethanol added fuel, I avoid these at all costs). Cheers.
  6. The diode block is actually a double diode, each diode simply works like a hydraulic one way valve, allowing electrical flow in one direction and not the other. As you can see by the attached drawing you would expect to see 3 wires at your plug which I think I can identify from your picture. So, the diodes are all about providing in gear, clutch in start, and providing correct Neutral light indication. The upper diode in the drawing is the Clutch Diode. It's purpose is to Stop the ground (being provided by the clutch pulled in and side stand switch up) enabling the Neutral Light whilst in gear, and allows the start relay to energise for an in gear, clutch in start. It also allows the Neutral Switch ground to flow to the Starter Relay in a normal neutral gear, side stand down start. If there was no clutch diode (or a shorted diode) and it was a solid wire, then every time you pulled in the clutch while riding your Neutral Light would come On! As for the lower diode on the Neutral Indicator side I'm not too sure of its purpose, and suggest that if it was a solid wire without the diode, things would still work normally. Also the Diode Block is part of the Fuse Box on the 6gens I've owned. (Non ABS).
  7. Check fuse B 10amp. Position.Tail.Licence light.Illum. And, you might have two blown globes or the incorrect type fitted!
  8. Grum

    Sunday Ride

    Excellent. Just so many reasons why this is a fantastic shot
  9. US Gallons,Imp Gallons - Thank God for the metric system! My Owners Book and Service Manual states 21.2litres (5.60 US gal, 4.66 Imp gal). Australia and New Zealand 2014 versions. Strange to see there would be any discrepancy, surely Honda wouldn't make differing tank volumes or maybe different sized fuel pumps for the same bike depending on country! The great thing with the 8gen is I don't normally have to look for fuel till around the 400k range (249miles). Overall the 8gen has superior fuel economy than the 6gen. Cheers.
  10. Grum

    First Time On The Track

    What a Gem, super bike, super shot.
  11. Interesting point you raise, but guess it depends on a few factors namely your brake usage. I've found that imeadiately after a ride the rear brake rotor can be untouchable hot whereas the fronts are way cooler even though I use the fronts for the majority of braking. With each of my bikes from new,(three 6gens and one 8gen) the rear OEM pads have always required replacing before the fronts. My thinking is that even though the vast majority of braking is carried out by the fronts it's wear is spread over 4 pads and two discs which get good cooling airflow. The rear single disc, centred within the wheel, seems to miss out on cool airflow causing the very hot disc situation perhaps exacerbating rear pad wear. Just my thoughts. Cheers Post Edit - Went for a lengthy ride today and ONLY used front brakes, arrived home and checked the rear disc rotor - It was COOL. Rear wheel has always spun freely on the centre stand. Confirming I don't have a dragging rear caliper. (No linked Brakes on my 8gen).
  12. Hi Adamv. Sorry to hear of your issues. Further to what FJ12Ryder has mentioned. I personally believe the need to replace your rear brake rotor to be utter bullsh@t. With new pads, there is no way even a badly worn rotor would cause next to no braking and a pedal you can fully depress with your finger! Even if that was the case, it wouldn't happen just after a pad change which in fact would lessen the effect. If your reservoir is properly full and you are not losing fluid from somewhere, and provided the seals are not damaged then most likely air has entered the system. If you had NO brake issues prior them changing your pads then there is an extremely high probability they've stuffed up. Your statement of "pumping the brakes brings back brake pressure" points to air in the system. I would fully flush/bleed the rear brake system with Dot-4 fluid and re-assess your situation. Unless they can show you that the rotor was worn below limits (5.0mm minimum thickness) then I would be chasing a refund, as you have proven the rotor is not the cause of your issues. Couldn't agree more in what FJ12Ryder stated. You have a very dangerous situation on your hands and it needs to be positively sorted out ASAP. Good Luck.
  13. Good Luck Urban. Sure hope by now that all the demons are fully exorcised from your VFR, joyous riding ahead of you. Cheers.
  14. It's not possible to have both vacuum and electrics connected to the map sensor while synching the starter valves! This may well be a typo or translation error. The very next line in the procedure tells you to remove the vacuum hoses from the 5 way joiner and to connect each hose to your vacuum gauges, the map sensor will then be only sensing local barometric pressure as it can't be connected to the vacuum.
  15. 6gen manual states to have the MAP sensor electrically connected. As the Map sensor vacuum lines from each cylinder are connected to your vacuum gauges the MAP sensor will be only sending local barometric pressure to the ECM, perhaps this is required for accurate Starter Valve Synch, only guessing. I successfully did my 6gens as per the manual with the MAP sensor electrically connected.
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