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Grum last won the day on June 20

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About Grum

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    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Grum

    New(er) bike question for the group

    I believe new 8gen's are going cheap in the US, go for the Deluxe version. The 8gen will also be the last of the VFR's That's what I'd be chasing. My current 8gen is a great bike and the best of the 4 VFR's I've had. Gone are the electrical issues had with the 6th gen, great fuel economy, lighter weight, new instrumentation, better brakes, ABS, Traction Control, Heated grips, self cancelling indicators, LED headlights, improved handling, seat height has two positions, narrower front look as side radiators are now at the front, need I say any more! Good Luck.
  2. My drawing also has the HISS system which is connected to the ECU as well, you won't have this. So back to your problem. Are you having issues with B14 ground? Are you loosing this ground when the fault is active? If you can't find the Green B14 wire through the wire loom, and if it is not grounding all the time as it should be, cut the green wire near the ECU join in a new wire and properly ground it at the other end.
  3. Klrtovfr - This is starting to drive me crazy only for the fact I'm discovering a few variations on the ECU pin outs. The Service Manual I have was for my 2004 Australian model and clearly states B14 is to be ground. B14 on some of the other versions is NOT ground but the Throttle Position Sensor. Can you scan or give me a link to your bike schematic. We most definetly need to be working from the same and correct drawing for the ECU. Here's my drawing B1, B2 and B14 are Grounds, B12 is the main 12v supply and B18 is the Fuel Pump Relay ground output. Does this match up to your ECU.?
  4. O.K was looking at a training ECU drawing for 2002 ECU and showed B26 gnd so ignore that. Here's an Important thing when checking Grounds. ALWAYS have a meter probe on the Negative Battery terminal, every ground must be referenced back to the battery Neg terminal not just the frame of your bike. I like to use a meter on lowest ohms range and fix the black probe to the battery neg whilst checking the ground wires with the other probe, you should see virtual zero ohms for a good ground, just don't stick your probe onto a active 12v wire!. Follow up on B14 it MUST be grounded at all times.
  5. You could be onto something here. The service manual states that B14 must be ground at ALL times. I've also found the manual and drawing a pain in the arse as you've mentioned there is no pin out info.
  6. Have discounted the Kill Switch as this will inhibit your starter from cranking and kill the Engine Stop relay which in turn removes all power from the Fuel Pump, ECU, Igniters and Injectors. You don't have these issues. So perhaps simply flicking the kill switch is just resetting the ECU momentary till the fault returns! Have you done the ECU power and ground check yet? Make sure on the grey plug of the ECU the B1, B2, B14 and B26 are solid grounds use your meter low ohms check to ground, ignition to Off. With ignition On. Make sure you have a solid 12v at B12. Leave your meter in this position and establish wether this voltage disappears when the fault condition is present, an intermittent loss of 12v at B12 could cause your symptoms. Have a VERY close look at the wiring of the two ECU connectors, check that no pins or sockets retracted, no loose wires, no shorts, all sockets and pins look good etc. With ignition on gently flex the wires at the back of the ECU see if this induces or inhibits the fault condition.
  7. Grum

    Diagnostic code 88

    Sevice manual states if the MIL is ON all the time, that unless there is a short to ground with the Brown wire then the ECU is faulty. Appears this is your situation. What is completly nonsensical is that you have confirmed that the Brown wire has zero ohms (continuity) resistance from the DLC to the ECU and ABS, which is exactly what you should have, HOWEVER you are saying that ONLY at the ECU B19 Brown wire point are you getting 4meg ohms to ground and the other two points ABS and DLC you get infinity to ground!!!! All three points are, and should be exactly the same points, you must get the same reading to ground!! Are you sure when you measured the ECU your fingers were not touching the meter probes introducing body resistance? The MCS rig would also pick up diagnostic data from the O/W wire at the DLC which includes the R/R, ABS and ECU. Perhaps more info about code 88 could be extracted from the MCS system. Might be worth a talk to you local Honda dealership about this. Do you know anyone with an 8gen you might be able to swap ECU's with? Sorry mate my bike is 17,000 kilometers away!!
  8. O.k. Looks like you have determined the ECU is wrongly providing a ground for the relay intermittently. Perhaps that short you found has damaged the ECU somehow. Agree that if the main 12v for the Bank Angle Sensor is solidly grounded you should blow a fuse, but by shorting through a ground output from the ECU who knows what might happen within the ECU. Note - Removing the Grey connector also removes the main 12v (B12) from the ECU so Ignition ON the ECU should be dead! Think you should again give your ECU a really good run on your friends bike. You are definetly at a point where you need to verify the ECU is perfectly O.K - Or not! Also make sure all the supply 12v and grounds for the ECU are good.
  9. Excellent, now make your new wire permanent, insulate your joins and give your bike plenty of starts and stops, then a good test ride. Keep us posted on how it goes. As for the other issue you mentioned regards No spark, let's wait and see! Good Luck. Cheers.
  10. O.K that's great. Don't worry that you are seeing 12v on this wire measured between the battery pos and the Bi/Bl wire with ignition OFF as I said it may well be grounded through the ECU until things are powered up. So with the original Bi/Bl wire OUT of the system and you have your bypass wire from the Relay to ECU. Is everything NORMAL? Hopefully this has solved your issue, fingers crossed.
  11. That sounds normal, without knowing the internals of the ECU, the ground may well be there prior to switch On so if that was the case you would measure 12v. But because there is NO 12v supply on the other side of the Relay coil there is NO relay action. So, at switch ON you should still see the 12v for the duration of Fuel Prime 2 secs, THEN the ECU should remove the ground turning Off the Relay and your voltage should drop back to zero. So are you saying it's working normal while you have that 6pin plug disconnected!!!!!
  12. Then that's why your relay is permanently energised once your ignition is On. Sounds like somewhere there is a short to ground on your ECU switch wire. Try having your meter connected measuring the volts and start moving wires around all the way back to the ECU, see if this removes the 12v. You may find the short that way. Failing that, you could do a wire By-pass. Cut the Br/Bl wire close to the ECU and the Relay base, now solder or crimp a new wire at the relay and run it back to the ECU. If you are soldering make sure you insulate your joins by a sleeve. Good Luck.
  13. O.K you've confirmed continuity of the ECU switch wire the Br/Bl wire. Try this - With your meter set to volts and your red probe to the positive of your battery, place your black meter probe on the Br/Bl wire at the Relay. You should be seeing near Zero volts, turn On your Ignition you should see 12v appear for the 2 sec Fuel Prime period then the volts should drop back to near zero. Let's know your results. If you are seeing 12v all the time then the switch Ground wire Br/Bi has picked up a ground from somewhere, an intermittent short perhaps.
  14. The 2 sec fuel prime is a switch on function of the ECU. From memory once the ECU sees crank or cam pulses the Fuel Pump runs continuously. The only other logic input that will kill the ignition and fuel pump is the safety logic of In gear/side stand down. The engine Kill Switch OR Bank Angle Sensor will remove 12v power from, Injectors, Spark Coils and Fuel Pump. The only way the Fuel Pump will run continuously (at Ignition switch On) is either a faulty continuous ground supplied by the ECU, sticking relay contacts of the Fuel Cut Relay, a 12v short across the relay contacts perhaps at the relay base, or the energising ground wire (from the ECU) is shorted to frame/ground. Think you should firstly, as suggested, isolate the Fuel Cut relay by replacement, see what happens. All seems a bit strange that this occurred just after pulling the Fan/Thermo switch plug!

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