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Grum last won the day on August 22

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About Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Grum

    Flat battery

    Hi Paul. OK then, given the age of the battery, as Cogswell suggested a load check of the battery should be done. And given the age of your bike, a close inspection of the Stator output connector into the R/R and the Output from the R/R conector, as well as a close look at both Maim Fuses for overheated Fuses, wiring and connections. Your charging system doesn't sound right as you state 13.4v at the battery engine running or not! You should be seeing around 13.5 to 14.5v with engine running. This can be caused by a failing Stator, R/R or poor connections as mentioned. Go through "The Drill" below to diagnose your charging system. Do you have the Service Manual? It can be downloaded from the forum.
  2. A friend of mine had the suspension on her 6gen lowered which required the Side Stand to be shortened, this had a negative effect on the bikes stability with wind in either direction while parked, you also had to be far more aware of any pavement camber. So the way I see it, is that shortening of the stand creates a negative effect by being less stable and more prone to topple depending on wind direction, strength and pavement angle. A greater reaching with slighter angled stand will increase stability but there is obviously a practical limit to that. So it's length and angle is a fine line between good overall stability and practicality. My bike is the same as yours, and provided I get the bike positioned correctly on any camber, it's very stable on the side stand, and never had an issue even with full OEM panniers. YMMV.
  3. Grum

    Flat battery

    What year bike do you have? How many miles has it done? How old is your battery?
  4. Agree with Fink, most likely some form of dirt or whatever in the mechanism, and given the switch is facing upwards probably doesn't help. Try exercising the switch many times with the Ignition OFF. Then, with Ignition to ON, operate the switch, take note of hearing the Fuel Pump prime EVERY time you go from OFF to RUN with the Kill Switch. I've not had one of these apart, but perhaps a light squirt of WD-40 or similar might help. BUT if you don't have the situation when EVERY time you go from OFF to RUN you hear the Fuel Pump prime, then your going to have to get the switch or its wiring sorted ASAP! Good Luck.
  5. Sure does. Properly crimped you will have eliminated the chance of hi resistance connections and associated heat issues. You are also greatly reducing the chances of water ingress because of its heat shrink outer covering. These can simply be cut and re-done if ever you have another Stator issue. A far superior connection than the original spade and blade type. Jim, the sooner you do the job the better, if it was my bike I'd have it done yesterday, the original Stator to R/R plug is a real problem causer with 5th and 6gens.
  6. Wow! glad you've got it sorted, in the long run! Any more details of the plugs you removed? How many miles had they done? Were they the correct type and temperature range? What were the ones you fitted? NGK, Denso, Bosch? Enjoy your smooth running 6gen. Then have a beer or two afterwards, you deserve it.
  7. Great looking bike. But wouldn't place it in the VFR's Sports Touring category. Honda Australia shows no Sports Touring category at all since the demise of the VFR800 and 1200 - bloody sad affair!
  8. You could have a faulty Starter Switch - The switch has two sets of contacts. 1 - To activate the starter relay. 2 - To disable the lighting relays while the Starter Button is pressed. Sometimes this switch can become sticky and does not re-activate the lighting relays on release. Try squirting some WD-40 or similar into the starter switch and exercise the switch (Ignition to OFF). Other than that, you may need to access the Lo Beam Relay to measure voltages and grounds to determine the relay operation. Does your bike have a Passing Switch (Hi Beam Flash)? Also seeing your battery was dead, check your charging voltage. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? Engine running you should be seeing around 13.5 - 14.5v directly measured at the battery. Do you have a wiring diagram or Service Manual? You can download the Service Manual from the Downloads menu of this forum. Good Luck. Keep us posted.
  9. Grum

    Fuel pump issue

    Hi DannoXYZ. Agree with your source to destination OR destination back to source approach for Power and Grounds. However, in this case items 1 to 12 can eliminated because a solid 12v was established at the Fuel Cut Relay socket. Also a solid Ground was eventually established for the fuel pump, and the ECM to FCR control ground was also confirmed eliminating items 13 and 14. A shorting link across the FCR socket relay contacts would run the Fuel Pump. That basically left a faulty FCR or its socket. So I don't fully agree with your statement "Why replacing relays didn't work is because fuel-cut relay was working perfectly fine" It would have taken forever stepping the OP through each of the suggested items, especially when he didn't appear to have a good grasp of the use of a multimeter, OR an understanding of the wiring, and as he states "Sorry I’m an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff". He also admitted he was Not checking the relay operation correctly. We haven't heard back from the OP so we can only assume his bike is running ok since replacing the FCR back in May! For trouble shooting purposes, to isolate a possible faulty relay, there is no issue at all in swapping a known good Hi Beam relay for example, with the ESR or FCR, as all four relays on the bike are the same type. Another example of a dead Fuel Pump situation - So the first thing you do is connect two test wires Direct from the Battery to the Fuel Pump connections, the Pump does Not run. You've now diagnosed a dead Fuel Pump. There's no need of going through all the steps of 1 - 14 when a pump replacement fixes the issue.
  10. Check this out, it might be what you're looking for if you feel the need for richer fuelling. https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/honda-800-series-51c1.html
  11. None whatsoever, excellent product. These look like AMP in-line connectors used in the aircraft industry. They work great provided they are properly crimped, same goes for these butt splices.
  12. Hi Bog. Jkson the original poster goes into good detail regarding the reason for offset vacuum for the fifth gen with his very first post! Note the non adjustable reference starter valve for a fifth gen in No.1 on a sixth gen it's No.4. My own personal experience with setting a 6gen to all equal to No.4 has provided good results, with none of the "stutter" you mentioned. Many others which I've read about have also achieve good results for a 6gen. Perhaps the mapping for a 6gen is very different to a 5gen thus the reason for equal vacuum on a 6gen. Your "stutter just off idle" is commonly caused by starter valve unbalance, however in your case it appears to be something else. I've found that setting the throttle cable slack to a minimum helps, just in operator smoothness (check after adjusting, that swinging the steering from lock to lock there is no increase in idle rpm). Things like spark plugs, air filter, fuel quality and type, fuel filter, tank condensation, vacuum leaks, modifications etc. might have an effect on your "stutter just off idle" Assumming also your warm engine idle rpm is correctly set to 1200. Even overheated and high resistance wiring or joints for Main Fuse B 30amp (All the EFI and sensor power) and of course poor grounds and connectors, can cause poor rideability issues.
  13. Good idea to get the oil circulated first. But the Kill Switch will kill the starter. Might need to remove Main Fuse B and leave the Kill Switch to RUN.
  14. Make sure the 4P wiring plug to the Starter Relay is Correctly orientated! Making sure that the Green/Red and the Yellow/Red wire are going to the Starter Relay Coil. The Red wire (or if you have 4 wires, then the Red/White as well) must be going to the Main Fuse. If the plug has been incorrectly fitted then you may have also shorted or blown the Clutch Diode. Apart from that you'll have to start unplugging devices to isolate the short starting with the R/R, check Ignition switch, check for burnt connections, and then removing fuses. Good Luck. You can also download the Service Manual from this forum. Downloads Section
  15. Glad to help. Beautiful looking 1200F you have. Enjoy the new tires. Cheers
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