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Grum last won the day on April 20

Grum had the most liked content!

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About Grum

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  • Location
    Sunbury Australia
  • In My Garage:
    2014 VFR800F

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  1. Nice one Dutchy. Your "little puma" is the Best looker by far. I'd have yours over three of the others. Cheers.
  2. Just reading of an early 6gen having done 123,600miles, nearly 200,000k's! and never had a valve check, still running well!
  3. Well I'm surprised at that, considering the number of bikes with wave keys and the HISS system that some dealerships didn't know they could supply a key!!!! Glad it's all sorted Skids. Cheers.
  4. Grum


    Just magnificent, a real eye catcher.
  5. My sentiments exactly, it's the best VFR out of the four that I've owned. Enjoy. Cheers.
  6. Great story SSNOWDEN77. What a fantastic looking early 6gen and with 123,000 miles its looks well cared for. Can't talk about the VFR1200 but can assure you your 2015 VFR800 Deluxe 8gen will serve you extremely well. My own 8gen has now done 65,000k's and love it, it continues to perform faultlessly, there appears to be no electrical issues with the 8gen that we are so used to with all previous model. Enjoy your new bikes and stay upright. Cheers.
  7. Excellent work. That's a pass with honors from me.
  8. Assume the cowl set comes with the logo? In Australia its VFR, in America its INTERCEPTOR, then for 2015 there are three colors Victory Red, Pearl Glare White, and the Black. Beats me from the parts listing how you can be assured of the correct one! Might be worth discussing this with your local Honda Dealership spare parts dept.
  9. Grum

    Fried Stator

    O.K. So you've crushed and shorted to frame the stator wires via the cable clamp bracket. You need to make sure that the wires travel through the channel underneath the bracket and just to the right of the cable bracket mount screw. Your windings don't look cooked so hopefully they are ok, but you are going to have to repair the crushed wires. You could cut, solder and sleeve the wires OR take the Stator along to a professional rewinding place and have the flying leads replaced, due to the hot oily environment having the leads professionally replaced might be the best option. Also grab a multi meter on the Ohms scale and make sure the three wires have NO continuity to the metal body of the stator, and have a very low reading between each yellow wire. Good luck and when installing the stator make sure the wires are properly in the channel away from the Cable Bracket mounting screw post. Cheers.
  10. My concerns are that the bike is a new 2017 model. So if the dealership has had it for that time what do they do to maintain the supplied battery? The battery a Yuasa YTZ12S is a factory activated AGM battery. So could the dealership have had the battery lying around for 2 years without proper care? Until the battery is properly load checked I'd guess you may have a shorted cell. Generally the charge voltage on the 8gen's is very stable at 14.5v. (Fancy new type of R/R). Good Luck - Would be very interested on what the dealership do for you, and if they carry out a load check.
  11. Hmmmm interesting point. My own 8gen has now done just over 65,000k's and haven't had a valve check! My previous 6gen had 94,000kms on the clock and that also had not had a valve check. I have spoken to a local Honda mechanic, a maintenance supervisor and well respected. I asked him how many VFR's he's done valve checks on that needed adjustment? His answer " Very very few". He believed the bike should at least be checked once in its life and generally more frequently if you use it as a track bike. I have no doubt that there is a certain amount of Honda simply covering themselves by stating valve checks are required every 24,000k's. YMMV. Cheers.
  12. HISS not on the American 8gens.
  13. Hi shaynus. Don't have a 5th gen, nor have I had it's instrument panel apart, but what I can tell you is that LCD displays draw such little current they can suffer from poor connections. I've experienced poor connections to an LCD array via its ribbon cables that are sometimes only held in position via self adhesive. First confirm at the Instrument Panel that the 12v Br/Bu wire for the LCD has a good 12v and that the G/Bl wire for the LCD is properly Grounded. Seeing your bike has sat for a long time and the LCD worked previously I'm guessing there may be a poor connection that has developed. If you are able to remove the LCD module have a very good look at all its internal connections. On the printed circuit board closely check for any cracked or burnt solder joints. As for riding your bike, there shouldn't be any issue OTHER than you don't have Fuel, Temp, Clock and whatever else the LCD was displaying. The Fuse of concern is fuse G 10amp. I know you said there is "power to the fuse", BUT is there power from it! Are there any other lights or indications that are not working? Good Luck - Hope this helps a little!
  14. Hi Cogswell. Sorry to add more confusion, but my 5th 6th and 8gen Service Manuals state install the Right Bearing first then the distance collar followed by the Left bearing!! Does it really matter which goes first? So now I'm confused Bearing Specs are 6204UU - OD=47mm, ID=20mm, Width=14mm, UU= Double Ultra Seal! Just curious - With the Distance Collar in between the two bearings, how the hell do you get the first one out?
  15. Had the Road 5's for some time now and I am impressed with the grip and durability. What I find interesting is the definite visible delineation of the softer edge rubber and the harder center rubber which only appears on the rear. This rear has done 9,200k's Be interested to know if you get the same effect. Cheers.
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