Grum

Hi Danno. I think you mean in step 1 to measure the B terminal volts. Typo error perhaps. Seeing Tony is only measuring 3.56v at the starter motor (effectively the M Terminal of the Relay) with Starter Button pressed, and 12.52v at the B terminal and assuming his cable continuity is possibly ok. Then most likley the main contacts of his Amazon purchased Starter Relay are burnt out/high resistance. That's also assuming the Starter Relay coil is seeing near battery voltage when the Starter button is pressed, this has not been checked yet!! Cheers.

CCT's generally create a distinctive chain clatter up around the cylinder head area. Is your noise noticeable down low near the clutch housing?

Let me get this right!!! You measured 12v at the Battery side terminal (B terminal) of the Starter Relay and then when you press the Starter Switch this voltage just goes to zero!! Simply measuring your 12v across the battery, does this also go to zero when the Starter switch is pressed?? The B terminal cable is a very short heavy duty cable that is directly connected to the battery positive at one end then the Starter Relay at the other! HOW ARE YOU LOSING THIS VOLTAGE???? Is this short cable damaged in any way?? Is your Battery dead?? Is your Starter Motor jammed? Again.....Are your Battery and Starter Relay terminals clean and tight? Did you have the Black lead of the Voltmeter on the Negative terminal of the Battery (or a good Ground) and the Red lead probing the B terminal of the Relay? Or Did you decide to place both meter leads on the two large Relay terminals B and M ?? This makes a big difference. Refer to the Diagram I posted and the voltage test mentioned for both main terminals of the Starter Relay!

What year is your friends bike? If its a 5th or 6gen, sounds like he might have a ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm. It will dump excess fuel into cylinders 3 and 4 via its vacuum hose. Check the FPR vacuum hose pull it off the FPR look for any fuel leakage from the FPR. Do you have the Service Manual. It can be downloaded from the forum.

Fitted a Powerbronze (light tint) to my 8gen and I'm very happy with quality, looks and fit. But your 2005 vfr is a 6gen! Note - Strange reflections on the screen and bike are from being positioned very close to an old weather board house.

Hi Duc2V4. Fan not coming on just over 200degF (93degC) is possibly nothing too concerning, for a 6gen fan switch on is anything between 208 to 216degF. Wonder if you have some air in the system, did you purge and top up the system? Just make sure the body of the fan thermoswitch is in fact bonded/grounded back to the battery Negative terminal, zero ohms to the negative terminal. Make sure the "Ground Eyelet" for the left side radiator is clean and tight, and making a good ground connection. (Again referring to 6gen?? 5th is probably much the same). Hope this helps. Cheers.

"The bike did not turn on" Are you still seeing instruments come on and hear the fuel pump prime etc. at swich On or is this now not happening?? Your statement is confusing and different to your first post!

Sounds like you just need to do the voltage checks as mentioned for the main terminals of the Starter Relay, and verify continuity of the main motor lead from the Starter Relay down to the motor. When the Starter Relay is energized you should also measure 12v at the main positive terminal of the Starter Motor. You seem to either have a faulty Starter Relay, or some issue with the main motor lead or its connections. Check all connections are clean and tight.

Well that explains why you only saw 2 ounces of fuel flow Simply switching the Ignition On or the Kill switch from off to run will Only give you 2 to 3sec of pump run time, not the required 10secs!

Umm so that means you didn't run the pump for 10sec for the FF test?? Pump needs to run continuously for 10secs. I'm confused.

Not sure what you're saying here "his side of the bike"? In order to run the pump for 10sec for the FF test, you either need to provide external 12v to the FP connection for 10secs OR bypass the FC Relay using a wire jumper for the mentioned wires on the relay base, then switch on Ignition for 10secs. Otherwise your FP will only operate for the 2 to 3 secs prime at switch On!

Yep point taken Squirrelman completely agree. A new or rebuilt dry engine is most certainly the exception to the general rule.

Mate.....Be Very Very careful when jumping/bypassing the Fuel Cut Relay. You need to jumper the Black/White wire to the Brown wire NOT the Brown/Black wire if you get this wrong you Will DESTROY your ECM. This has happened! Double check this BEFORE switch On.

Interesting the oil filter pre fill process!! I can imagine it would create a bit of a mess trying this on a horiziontal mounted VFR fitting. Never seen this recomended in any Service or Owners manual. Haven't suffered any ill effects from not prefilling an oil filter. There is always a good micro film of oil on all the internals and oil pressure recovery on start up is generally very quick. As always YMMV.

Thats very bad, less than half the required flow rate. Is there any way of knowing if the Fuel Filter was replaced with the pump? Might be worth replacing the filter on spec then recheck flow rate! Grit in the catch cup is not a good sign as well! Good to see you did the power and ground check for the FP, well done. Good luck.

Your Starter Relay is located just forward of the Battery. The Headlight Relays are located in the front cowl area behind your instrument panel. Remove your seat and listen near the Starter Relay for it to click when the Starter button is pressed. Do you definitely hear the Starter Relay click when pressing the Starter Button? - Have you tried starting the bike with the Sidestand to UP and Clutch pulled in? With a voltmeter measure the incoming 12v on the main B terminal (battery) of the Starter Relay. Now place your Red meter probe on the other main terminal, when the start button is pressed and the relay energized you should see 12v appear on this terminal being the M (motor) terminal. Refer attached diagram. - Have you downloaded the 5gen Service Manual from the forum? Here's a handy basic drawing of the Starting Circuit, hope it helps. It highlights in Red the 12v feed for the relay coil and the grounding side for the coil in Green. Note all the various safety interlocks/switches on both the positive and ground side for the relay coil.

Just to be sure! When you say you hear a click when the starter button is pressed, are you sure you are hearing the Starter Relay click OR the normal function of the Headlight Relay click as it drops out?

Did you remove the circlip/snap ring that locks the piston assy in place?

You might want to read this article! These things would never be used in the aircraft industry.

Another good way to verify a Ground is to make sure there is No voltage on it. Eg. If you clip the Black lead of your voltmeter to the battery Negative, then with the Red lead probing the Green Ground wire at the back of connector of the Fuel Pump, ( note - connector must be connected to the Fuel Pump) then switch on ignition for the 2 to 3 secs fuel prime, you should Not see a voltage appear during the prime. If you do read a voltage the Ground is NOT at ground potential = Bad Ground. If your new Fuel Pump is non OEM then I guess there's a good chance it might not sound the same!

You might want to confirm that the Green Ground wire at the Fuel Pump is indeed properly Grounded. A poor ground will create your slow pump operation. With Ignition to off do an ohms check of the FP ground wire back to the Battery Negative terminal, it should be near Zero ohms. I'm fairly sure the FP ground goes through the dreaded orange ground block located just above the chain guard. See photo. You should also confirm that the 12v being supplied from the Fuel Cut Relay (for 2 to 3 secs at switch on) is 12v relative to battery Negative terminal and the pump ground wire. Also make sure the FP electrical connection is clean and good.

A long shot I guess, but is there any chance your plugs are fouled. - Have you tried different plugs and have you confirmed the plugs are the correct type? - Are the high tension leads in good shape? - Are the two primary connections for each coil making a clean and tight connection? - Have you tried unplugging the Fuel Cut Relay just to see if this has any effect on spark? Just wondering if there is some fault with this device that may be killing/loading spark output. - And you have definitely confirmed that the Ground signal from the Neutral Switch is seen at the ICM - Yes? (Essential for Ignition enable.) On a side note. I can't see how the original R/R failure and melted wiring would effect the ICM. UNLESS the R/R had overvolted. Grasping at straws!

There are no error codes for the Fuel Pump. The pump will only operate for 2 to 3secs at Ignition Switch On. It is then enabled during cranking and engine running when crank pulses are detected by the ECM. The ECM provides the control Ground to energize the Fuel Pump Relay. You need to measure voltages at the Relay refer to wiring diagam. You should also hear the relay switch on then off at switch on. Any doubts about the Fuel Pump Relay it can be swapped with any of the other relays, suggest using the Headlight (Hi Beam) Relay.

Have you confirmed battery voltage on the Black/White wire of the Ignition Coils, and that both power and ground to the ICM are good?

You can download the 8gen Service Manual from the forum. Hopefully this link will get you there. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/search/&tags=vfr800x The ECM memory clearing procedure is much the same as a 6gen. No special tool needed, just make up a suitable shorting link.(SCS) Note - DLC = Data Link Connector. DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code. MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp. SCS = Service Check Shorting Connector. This needs to be between the Brown and Green wire of the DLC. Just curious. What Trouble Codes are you suspecting or have?