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"Sprockets still look good but as they say sprockets and chain at the same time." l really believe this is purely based on old school thoughts and technology. Perhaps its based on a worse case scenario being, salty slushy roads, poor tension, poor cleanlines, cheap and nasty chain, poor maintenance, etc. My 8gen has now done over 100,000kms on the OEM rear sprocket, the front was replaced at around 70,000kms. I know you're the type of owner who takes care and pride of his bike so I'd be shocked if you're needing a new rear sprocket at such a relatively low mileage. I've never experienced any premature chain wear, transmission noise etc. to indicate my sprockets needed replacing, also the visual look of the sprockets showed no signs of wear. BUT.....As always YMMV.

This might answer your questions.

Hi Bob. Just a bit of info, food for thought..... - For sure, your high performance Ford Focus required Premium Fuel. However your VFR doesn't. - Your Australian Owners Manual states "Your motorcycle is designed to use 91ron, or higher". The "or higher" is not strictly correct as the VFR is not designed to reap any benefit from the higher octane fuel, nor does it need the higher anti knock stability, however, no harm done should you chose to use it. - Myself and other members have done some economy test runs with Premium and Standard fuels. On four VFR's my best economy runs have all been on 91ron and absolutely no perceivable benefit in performance with Premium. Keep in mind that the VFR does Not have an Anti Knock Sensor, so it's unable to take any slight advantage in tuning to the higher octane. Interesting, the energy values between Standard and Premium fuels are virtually identical. - Picking up "bad fuel" is generally Not the fuels' fault, more so the Service Station's tank and pump cleanliness and maintenance practices. - I was once told by a sales guy at a Yamaha Dealership that our 91oct fuel "is shit" Oh really I replied. So given the enormous volumes of 91oct fuel sold when compared to Premium Fuels how come I don't see thousands of cars on the side of the road with fuel injector issues etc. AND any major car or motorcycle manufacturer that knew Australian 91oct was "shit" would Never specify its use in their vehicle's. While the sulphur content in 91oct can be up to three times that of Premium, its only the Greenies and Fuel companies that prefer you to use the environmentally cleaner Premium and Ethanol blends - Beware the fuel companies advertising campaigns in luring people into so called benefits of using Premium when its simply not required or specified for their vehicle. Premium Fuel = Premium Profits for fuel companies. - With four VFR's I've owned and the fuel injected numerous cars both current and going back to my 1993 ED Falcon, ALL specified 91oct in their Owners Manuals so all were fed a diet of 91oct and have yet to experience a single Injector or Fuel Pump issue. I do admit to very rarely throwing a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank, have no idea as to any benefits of doing that! at least it might have a good placebo effect! - Can guarantee your 8gen will run perfectly on 91oct, and I certainly stick with the major suppliers eg BP, Shell, Ampol and Caltex. - Given the enormous turnover volumes of 91 compared to Ultra Premium 98. You might be assured of fresher fuel with 91oct. However, if you're still happy with Premium, fine, whatever floats your boat. You might still make a good saving in at least going from 98oct to 95oct. As always and especially with Oil and Fuel - YMMV. Keep us posted as to the Fuel Tank repair - hope all goes well. Cheers. -

Yes normal. Most 8gen owners hear it. Its just the tank pressure venting via a small spring loaded valve within the filler cap, the valve flutters as it vents, it can sound almost like the fuel pump is priming. I often get the noise after a ride and park the bike in the garage, as the engine heat warms up the tank it becomes quite noticeable if you're near the bike. Pop the fuel cap open and the noise instantly disappears.

Hi Bob Yep that's exactly the pic I was going to post for you. I'd love to know the dealership's reasoning for suggesting you use Premium 98oct !!! Absolute waste of money and with no fuel economy benefit. No issues with mine after 100,000kms on standard 91oct. Three previous 6gens all on 91oct again no issues With low fuel in the tank. Have you tried using a bright light and inspection mirror looking in through the filler neck, you might see the leakage issue. Just a thought. I can't help thinking that perhaps the dealership may have caused the leakage issue! It's very easy to knock the tank off any strut arrangement in the maintenance position. It may have fallen and smashed into a tool or whatever sitting under the tank while they've been working in the airbox area. What suburb of Melbourne do you live?

Hi Bob. Looks like the original position of the hose was incorrect! and where you have it now IS correct. It also matches the hose routing per the Service Manual. See attached my 2014, hose in original position. Provided when lowering the tank the slack is taken up I've never had a problem with tank venting, after 100,000kms. Due to the internal spring loaded poppet type valve in the fuel cap, you should only ever experience very slight pressure or vacuum when opening the filler cap, the emphasis is.......... Slight.. Very strange to hear of a hole in the tank of a 2016 8gen. Seeing you're in Melbourne, trust you completely avoid Ethanol blended Fuel?

No, VFR is 1-3-2-4.

And since Honda has removed the Variable Intake (Flapper) system from the 2016 onwards 8gen. I decided to do the same to my 2014 8gen just to clear some under tank clutter, can easily re-install all the stuff if needed. Just like you Terry, completely unable to detect any form of negative effect, performance, fuel economy, fuelling, throttle control are all as good if not better than pre removal. Surely, the cleanliness and air flow through the airfilter would be more important, than any possible adverse effect of removing the system. As always YMMV.

Blowing Fuses? YES = You have a short! NOT blowing fuses? Blinkers, Headlights, etc. work normally = You are chasing Moonbeams! Follow the wires you're measuring. If they go to relay coils or globes that have a Ground wire on the other end, there's your answer. For Ground continuity at the Blue 18P connector your main concern is the Green Wire having continuity back to the Negative terminal on BOTH sides of the Blue connector.

The Pink and Blue/Orange wires should NEVER be joined to each other! Does the underneath of the original Ignition Switch look like this? Suspect you are using the wrong diagram of your Ignition Switch!

Hi Michael. Great news, have to admit, those Champion Plugs didn't give me a warm cozy feeling! Glad the NGK"s have done the trick, proof will be in the riding. The other good thing regards the NGK's is a 50,000 Mile life. Found this interesting snippet of info regarding the use of Non Resistor type plugs which the G59C's are... "Use of non-resistor plugs in vehicles that call for a resistor type can result in rough idling, high-rpm misfire, and abnormal combustion." Just some info regarding 5th Gen SV settings as the Service Manual is confusing, here are the ideal settings.... 1 = MASTER 2 = Match to No 1 3 = 20mmHg MORE than 1 4 = 10mmHg MORE then 1 Good Luck hope it all works out. Cheers.

Yeah an LED is not suitable for rhe Fi Light. Its the only one in the dash that needs to be an incandescent bulb. The ECM provides an electronic ground switching for the bulb and the LED doesn't match the circuit impedance.

Might be worth unplugging both ECM connectors, check for any corrosion on the pins and sockets. Give them a good spray of Electrical Cleaner. What ECM do you currently have installed? The original or spare? Are they both exactly the same part number and version? Can you confirm by probing the ECM wires that all Grounds being the Green/Pinks and the Green have good continuity to battery Neg. And you are getting 12v at the Black/White wires at the ECM.

Ok, sorry but I have to ask this! When checking for spark Are You Properly Grounding the body of the spark plug? The reason I ask this is the I've just done some continuity checks to Ground of the head covers and because of the external protective coating on these there is no continuity, same if I place a probe on the clutch cover. So if you were just grounding the plug via the external surface of the head cover you may NOT be getting a spark. Make sure the plug body IS properly grounded when doing a spark test. Black/White wire voltage drop. Work back from the Ignition coils, check the voltage at the ESR, then the incomming voltage on the Red/White wire to the ESR, then measure the Red/White wire at the 18P Blue connector are you seeing the same or different volts on both sides of the blue connector, now follow the Red/White wire all the way back to Main Fuse B 30amp measure the voltage on both the test points of the fuse, probe the Inline connector for the fuse are you seeing any voltage drop there. Somewhere along the line you should establish a point at where you are dropping voltage. Follow what I'm saying here via the Wiring Diagram, Note as you work your way closer to the Battery your voltage will naturally rise, what your looking for is a sudden increase towards battery voltage the might highlite a bad connection. Good Luck.

In your other Post.... It was suggested to try this. You gave no report back! Have you bothered to check this? "Try the spark test again with the Sidestand Up, does this make a difference? The ECM Must see either the Ground signal from the Neutral Switch (via the Neutral/Clutch Diode, then the Green/Red wire at the ECM) OR the Sidestand Switch UP (Green/White wire at the ECM). No Ground detected = Ignition Disabled. You also want to be sure that the common Ground wires for the Ignition Coils measure GOOD continuity back to the Battery Negative terminal, AND that you measure good battery voltage on the Black/White wires for the coils." Seems a bit strange you've gone from intermittent fuel pump ops and low fuel flow, to now an Ignition fault!

Blowing Fuses? YES = You have a short! NOT blowing fuses? Blinkers, Headlights, etc. work normally = You are chasing Moonbeams! Follow the wires you're measuring. If they go to relay coils or globes that have a Ground wire on the other end, there's your answer. Also refer your other posting.

A bit of confusion! Are you sure you are not holding the IAT sensor plug being the White and the Flapper solenoid being the Gray? These connectors are both two wire plugs, the MAP (not MAF) is a three wire plug. Hope it's all coming together nicely for you.

Plugs the same, BUT, there is a subtle difference in the wire colour codes. Both have a solid Pink and a Green/Orange wire BUT, the MAP sensor has a Light Green wire with a Yellow trace, the TPS has just a solid Light Green wire. So are you saying you've confirmed a faulty original MAP Sensor? OR perhaps a poor connection and now both MAP and Baro sensors are both happy? MAP and BARO sensors are interchangeable, they are the same part numbers. You mentioned using the shorting link to extract the Historical codes, these could have occurred over many years, as to why there were so many is a mystery! Best to go through the process of Clearing ALL historical codes, this will help in starting with a new baseline seeing you have sorted all Ground issues. Trying to track down on a highly intermittent EFI fault will be made a lot easier with all those previous historical codes removed from memory. You shouldn't have a solid Red Fi Light if all is back to normal! Fi light should go OUT after the Fuel Prime time of 2 to 3 secs at Ignition Switch On. Unless you have the Kill Switch NOT in the Run position! While riding, if the ECM picks up an Active fault your Fi Light will come ON and Not flash. When you come to a stop and lower the Sidestand, if the fault is still active the Fi Light should spit out the diagnostic code. As well as storing the fault code into the ECM historical memory for later recall if needed. Great lot of photos Stray.

Dutchy......For your info, statistics show. With all HD's ever built, 97% of them are still on the road............. The other 3% actually made it back home!

Not sure what you're getting at here. Why bother with comparing a 6gen maintenance wise to your 8gen 800X.?? The download link recommended by Skids is a superb Service Manual for both 800F and 800X. It will answer all your questions along with the Owners Manual. The 6gen Service Manual is also available in the Downloads section if you want it.

Sounds like you might have a ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm. This will dump excess fuel into cylinders 3 and 4 via the vac hose and cause terrible running and smelling of raw from from the exhaust. Remove the vac hose from the FPR, see if it's wet with fuel or fuel drips coming from the hose mount on the FPR. With the hose still off, switch on Ignition for the fuel pump priming phase, do you notice any fuel weeping from the FPR?. Any fuel leakage equals a ruptured FPR diaphragm and will need replacing. Was the O2 fault an Active Fault flashing the code with Sidestand down. OR did you go through the process of reading any stored historical codes using a shorting link? O2 sensor fault as per the Service Manual shouldn't cause your problem. Good Luck.

Agree with Terry, your MAP Sensor shouldn't cause instant engine death. Your Fi Light will come On while riding for two reasons. 1. It has detected an Active DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code). 2. Or a loss of power for the EFI System (The Black/White wire fed from the Engine Stop Relay ESR and ultimately from Main Fuse B 30amp.), = Instant engine death. Have a Very close inspection of Main Fuse B, it's wiring and Fuse holder and inline joiner these can all suffer from overheated, burnt, high resistance connections. The fuse is located next to the starter relay, not the fuse within the starter relay, see attached. Also have a look at sub fuse B 20amp, the one in your fuse box. Check the fuse legs are not corroded or heat stressed. Download this excellent colour 5gen wiring diagram. NOTE - Both MAP and BARO Sensors are the same part number and can be swapped for fault finding.

Hi Kent. Have you downloaded the 2010 VFR1200 Service Manual from this forum? It's interesting that there are no less than 9 DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) that if detected will result in the throttle control going to idle position. So I'm convinced with the fault you're having the Fi Light should have illuminated. If the fault light remained on as you come to a stop, and if you lowered the Sidestand a DTC would be flashing via the Fi Light. If it has become intermittent the DTC will be stored in the historical memory of the ECM which can be recalled anytime. Refer Service Manual. Have to agree, that's a beautiful looking 2010 1200. Good Luck.

No, doesn't matter.

I'm sure they Don't have a dedicated Ground, have a look at your wiring diagram, the coil grounds are simply combined with a number of various grounds and ending up at the common Frame Ground point. There's no point or need for two grounds. I've never heard of the above suggestion re coil grounds for VFR COP's The bolt hole metal collar is vital to avoid damaging the plastic/epoxy coil body. For info, the attached drawing is a good representation of how the 3 wire COP works on your VFR (note - drawing is for a Suzuki SX4). P.s. Wow Thanks for the compliment.