Grum

The TPS power is fed from the 5v Reference voltage from the ECM and this should be rock solid. Check this voltage and make sure it is stable, and is the same value at both ECM and TPS. TPS info goes through two conectors before it gets to the ECM. So best to have a very close check of these connections making sure they are clean and good from TPS to ECM. The other important thing is to make sure the signal ground wire Green/Orange measures zero ohms back to the Battery negative terminal. You can easily measure the R/R output voltage checks. Any doubts you could run the engine for a short period with the R/R disconnected for testing of the TPS signal. Good luck.

My Shark Vision R size Medium only just fits, pannier lid can be closed and locked.

Agree with Skids, I think they are compatible, not 100% sure! Both the 800F and the 800X are very similar part numbers, possibly the only difference in the part number is for the colour. Both are 29Ltr capacity and mounting arrangements for both bikes look identical. Both the 800F and 800X also share a common Service Manual. Make sure you also acquire the Rubber Steps which mount onto the pillion foot peg rear spike that the lower front mount of the panniers sit into. Rubber Step P/No's 08L02-MGE- D10 Right. 08L03-MGE-D10 Left. Photo is an 800X, the pannier looks identical to my 2014 800F.

Doubt that you would cause any issue by not replacing it asap. You may find you're not getting the best fuel economy, and the oil may not be working to its optimum at lower temps.

If you are noticing the engine taking longer to come up to temperature, as well as lower than normal operating temps, then thats a good indication of a jammed open thermostat. Their most common fail state is to the open position, fortunately! Just like this.

Looks like the front tensioner chewed out not the guide. Is there any possible chance that the tensioners (items 4 snd 5) are in the opposite positions. It looks like its possible to get them mixed up? Or two of the same type? They are slightly different with different part numbers.

Are you sure a 12mm ring spanner won't do the trick? Wouldn't worry about torquing up afterwards, firm tightness and it shouldn't leak.

Did you say " hear the noise"? M8 bite your tongue, its not a Harley! Symphony more like it, and I think you should go see a Urologist!

Very nice. I'd be trying to steal Skids beautiful Black DAM exhaust!

M8. That sticker is all class, really well suited on the cowl. Very nice choice. The white background makes it all the more appealing. If I still had my RWB 6gen I'd definitely be doing the same, love it.

Good to see Gumby approves! Really like the VFR800 sticker you have on the seat cowl looks very smart.

Have heard worse than that. Is there any chance of excessive valve clearances on one or two valves?

Agree, was just a thought, but this guy certainly did it. Good luck hope its all sorted ASAP.

Well, this may be a long shot, but I do recall a guy who incorrectly assembled the clutch Slave Cylinder. He actually fitted the slave piston back the front! It caused the same effect, he also thought that the push rod was too long. Guess its worth checking.

Hi Jeff. Assume you have the Service Manual? Might be worth running the voltage and continuity checks (see attached). Also make sure that the Ground wire for the Speed Sensor and Instrument panel Grounds measure near Zero Ohms/continuity back to the battery negative terminal. Check the three mounting screws for the Speedo are making good contact to the copper tracks of the panel printed circuit board, perhaps a little Ox-gard under the screw heads might help. The three screw heads will be 1. The Pink wire back to the Speed Sensor output. 2. Ground via the Green/Black wire. 3. 12v via the Brown/Blue wire back to Fuse G 10amp. So check the continuity of the Pink wire from the instrument panel screw head back to the Speed Sensor and the Ground and 12v at the screw heads. Failing all of the above you most likley have an issue within the Speedo itself. Good luck.

Good news Stu, glad its sorted, some good drying out was what it needed. Trust you don't wash your bike with a high pressure washer? These things can certainly get water where you don't want it. Cheers.

And also there are differences between the 14 to 15 model compared to 2016 onwards, with being able to use a General Scan Tool. See attached.

Not sure, the Service Manual makes no mention of being able to do this. I'm am sure that at every switch On the ECM does its own self checks and after Fuel Prime the Fi light is reset. Your ECM might be in the Read/Clear memory history state, which might mean a short somewhere along the Brown wire and Ground of the DLC connector. Hopefully after a day to allow moisture to fully clear your fault might disappear!

Ok, you may have got some water into the instrument panel or plugs between the panel and/or the ECM. Suggest running the engine up to a high temperature, shut it down then let it sit for a good few hours, or overnight then see how it is the next day, hopefully some heat soaking might sort it out. The Fi light fully On would normally mean a power loss to the ECM, or an active fault detected, however you don't have that issue, so your getting a false indication possibly induced by water somewhere where it shouldn't be, or a possibility of Brown diagnostic wire short to Ground (refer your red DLC connector next to your right fuse box)! Good luck, keep us posted with how it goes.

Tell me more! So Sidestand down Ignition to On, Kill Switch to Run. Does it flash a code? Can you start your Bike? Does it crank over but does not start?

Best to download the Service Manual from this forum if you don't already have it. You don't need to plug in a reader to extract an historical fault code. However at this stage you only need to be interested in current active codes. With your Sidestand Down, Ignition to On, Kill Switch to Run. Does the Fi Light flash a Code? Or is the Fi Light just fully on all the time? At Ignition Switch On are you always hearing the Fuel Pump prime for approximately 3 secs?

Hey Gotma. After another close look at your video, you appear to be looking through the left side fork towards the apex of the frame, that places you close to the left side of the Front Cowl where the Engine Stop Relay is and the Headlight Relays more to the middle of the front cowl. ARE YOU SURE you are hearing the sound from under the tank OR is it coming from the front cowl area just forward from the Instrument Panel or near the left side of the front cowl area? Do you notice the slightest blink of your headlights when the sound happens? Think you could forget the chances of an intermittent trigger of the Starter Relay given the location of where you filmed the video from.

Ok, well, as mentioned regards the Starter Relay. Check out this link. Like I said it's a long shot but needs checking. Here's a test you could try. With the bike on center stand start the engine, Sidestand up, place it in gear, let the clutch out, let the rear wheel spin. Now, if you still get the snap sound in this condition then it can't be the Starter Relay as the ground side for the relay coil in this condition is open circuit (without pulling in the clutch lever), so even with the Red wire to Yellow/red wire intermittent short, it can't energize the Starter Relay. Have you ever heard the noise while riding or is it only when stationary while engine warms up? Something sure ain't right with the strange noise, can't see how changing coolant hoses could cause this, it might be just coincidence and not related.

Ok so what is that red led in your video? What aftermarket things have you fitted? Almost sounds like a Relay click and certainly appears to effect the engine. Can't think of any OEM component that would make that sound and have an instant hiccup effect on the engine! Just had another thought. A long shot but needs checking. It might be possible that it's the Starter Relay being falsely triggered by an intermittent short between the Red wire coming off Main Fuse A and Yellow/Red wire(relay coil positive wire).This has happened to one of our members, the Red wire can get hot enought to melt the insulation of both wires and create a short energizing the Starter Relay. Try and reproduce the sound with your ear as close as possible to the Starter Relay. If that clicks then check the wiring of the Red plug to the relay, unwrap the black tape and check for any signs of melted wires a good 4 inches or so back from the plug.

Just for the hell of it, another thing you could try is removing the electrical connector of the Pair Solenoid Valve, at the rear of the airbox, run your bike see if that stops the noise. The other one to try is to unplug the electircal connector from the Variable Air Intake(airbox flapper valve)solenoid mounted on the right side of the airbox. Both of these solenoids have been known to cause strange noises and disconnecting their electrical plugs for a bit of testing won't effect the bike's performance or flag an Fi Fault code. Good luck.