Grum

RC24 1986 to 1987. VFR750F = 350watts at 5,000rpm. Does this help?

Glad its sorted, thanks for the update. Appears the 7gen is very susceptible to battery voltage. I know that if the ABS light flashes rapidly after engine start that this can also be caused by a failing battery.

Did you remove the speed sensor before removing the sprocket cover. Makes is easier to properly align the speed sensor coupling after the sprocket cover has been re-installed. Only remove the speed sensor not the whole cover to inspect its coupling. Chain issue. Have you fully tightened the pinch bolt? Didn't overtighten your new chain by any chance? Have you purchased a top quality chain?

Thanks Cogs. That's a great story and fantastic having the mechanic backup your findings, it also reinforces you were most certainly doing things right, and I would never doubt your experience and expertise. I stand corrected, yours is now the second bike I've heard of where all vtec valves were tight! Cheers

That's really strange to hear every VTEC valve being tight, never heard of that before, (along with 6 out of 8 main valves) especially when you consider the VTEC valves are hardly used in comparison to the main valves! 61,000k's is not a lot of mileage! I seriously wonder what oil was used, what the service intervals were and how it was ridden or abused by the previous owner? Better not mention how many k's my 2014 8gen has done without a valve check!!!! Good luck with it, the 8gen is an incredibly reliable bike!

You could fairly easily measure the VLC Solenoid voltage supplied from the ECM. There is a 6P Sub harness connector that sits just above the left radiator. The single Green/Yellow wire of the VTEC Solenoid goes through this connector. You could probe the wire at this point with a voltmeter WITHOUT unplugging the 6P connector. Stick the bike on the center stand, side stand up, warmup the engine and run the engine above 6800rpm. You should see 12v appear on the Green/Yellow wire when all the VTEC criteria are met. That would at least establish the ECM is working correctly. You might need to run it up whilst in gear as speed and/or neutral switch might also be an unwritten criteria.

Agree with above, you may have disturbed something with the install, or you're expecting it to operate below the required engine temp. Perhaps your exhaust mod has had a positive effect on the smoothness to 4 valve ops! Is your engine temperature indication normal and your Fi light off? VTEC ops relies on. - Sidestand switch. - Coolant temp above 65degC 149degF. - Engine rpm above 6800. The VTEC spool valve is mounted in the Vee and if you disturbed its wiring you would most likely force a Fi Fault Code of 27. Guess there is always a chance the spool valve is jammed closed! You may have to get access to the valve located in the Vee to do some checks re Service Manual.

Also Ethanol blended fuels don't help with very cold conditions when starting! Try the flooded start procedure with a healthy battery, see how that goes.

If you suspect a flooded engine, try the flooded start procedure in the owners manual. It will purge the engine from excessive fuel and hopefully it will eventually fire up, worth a try. Having the throttle fully open shuts off the injectors, and fully opens the butterflies to purge the engine.

Ah yes, vey nice. Bound to give you endless miles of joy.

Hi Taylor and a warm welcome to you (like about 38degC where I am). As Cogswell states, better post a nice pic of your ride or we won't believe you 5gen is a fantastic bike once the electrical gremlins have been sorted, sounds like you're well on the way to achieving that. A Very lucky purchase by the sound of it. With 5k miles on the clock its just about due for its first service!! Cheers.

Hi Grum, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Definitely stuffed and Needs Replacing, potentially Dangerous situation! It's worn out badly at two points! If you look closely at the retainer bracket/clip it has worn/cut through the locating point to the left, and the retainer bracket sub assy has also worn badly to the left. See attached with red arrows! Retainer Bracket Sub Assy. Part No. 06453-MBG-405.

Why not invest in an intelligent battery charger/maintainer? No need to do winter rides just for the battery's sake! One of these is a great investment and will keep the battery healthy throughout winter. For info. I'm taking care of my American friend's BMW R1200RT. It was last ridden in March 2020 when we filled it with Premium fuel (non ethanol) then added the required amount of Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Fired up the engine for the first time on Christmas Eve after 21 months of dormancy. Engine started and ran fine.

??? Gallons fortunately went out many years ago here! My conversions of liters per 100k were to US mpg Not imperial mpg! Metric is great - a liter is a liter in any country.

Good news the FPR solved your issue or at least greatly improved things, and that the ST1300 FPR is compatible. With my three previous 6gens the Best Fuel Economy I achieved was 4.78L/100k or 49.21 miles to a US Gallon. Worst was 5.84L/100k or 40.28 miles to a US Gallon. My weight (back in the 6gen days!) was 82kg or 180.7 pounds. Just for info the 8gen has excellent overall economy, got as low as 3.94L/100k, 59.7mpg. Generally seeing below 4.5L/100k on average. I don't ever use Ethanol blended fuels, fortunately we still have a choice here. As per what Danno has mentioned, and also check your air filter for cleanliness, and (believe it or not) ensure the drive chain isn't over tight, and no brake drag! And Ethanol blended fuel will give you the less mileage compared to non Ethanol fuel!

Really! How come you need to replace the main wiring harness? That seems rather extreme. Are you sure damage caused by the after market heated grips can't be repaired? Was the heated grip wiring properly fused, and did that fuse blow? Can you establish exactly what is and what isn't working? Can you provide more details?

Lookin real nice Jake, the carbon look front is cool. The 1200 build quality is truly superb. Really sad we won't be seeing these marvelous VFR's built ever again! Enjoy it and hope it serves you well.

Congratulations Jake. Nice addition to your collection, better post a couple of photos. Hang onto that 93 of yours! Hope it brings you many miles of joy. Ride safe.

Glad to help out VFR80025th. But certainly not informed on "anything VFR" no Sir. Just slightly electrically biased! The rest I've learned from the other experienced members of this great forum. Cheers.

Sad to hear of Roy's passing. He added a lot of informative posts to VFRD. Sincere condolences to all his friends and family. Ride on Roy.

It's the 3phase AC voltage from your Alternator Stator to your R/R.

If that is your 3 stator wires and connector, then it most definitely needs attention. If it was mine I would be cutting and removing the connector then properly solder and sleeve wire to wire. Have a good look at the R/R output leads and connections. Whether this is the cause of your globes blowing, can't be sure but as already mentioned high and fluctuating voltage is not good and as Thumbs has mentioned make sure your headlight grounds are good.

"These are dangerous times. Never have so many people had access to so much knowledge, and yet been so resistant to learning anything." — Tom Nichols, The Death of Expertise.

Your charging voltage is fine, anything from 13.5v to 14.5v is good. These M.C.S. globes could be made anywhere, might be a Chinese cheapy who knows? As mentioned try a pair of good quality long life H4's. As a replacement of the OEM, I've previously used Philips Long Life Eco Vision H4's 60/55w on my 6gens, not had one of these blow. Use some tin snips to cut two tabs or bend them back to suite as suggested by bmart. Make sure the socket connectors are making good gripping contact to the globe contacts.