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ShipFixer

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Everything posted by ShipFixer

  1. I've removed the ignition lock cylinder on my 6th gen to clean the switch at the bottom. It's non-trivial effort to get under and through the upper triple clamp with an allen wrench and remove it without disassembling the front of the bike. I see what they were thinking with yours...doesn't look like they knew where the screws are. Someone tried to steal my bike a few weeks after I bought it back in 2003. They cut the ignition cables and clearly thought they could hotwire the bike like on TV. I don't think most wanna-be bike thieves really know how all of this works, let alone enough of the inner workings of something like this. "Real" vehicle thieves are just going to pull up with a flat bed truck or trailer and take your vehicle to be stripped elsewhere, in seconds. Anyway, like others said, these security bolts are going to make your life harder than someone else's. I can say some of my starter circuit issues were due to dirt and grease washing down through the whole cylinder into the switch at the bottom over time. So there are circumstances for elderly bikes like our 6th gens where you don't want to preclude yourself from getting into that switch easily later.
  2. Welcome back! I bought my 2002 back in 2020, after selling it in 2011 😁
  3. Weird... 🤔🙃🤷🏻‍♂️
  4. Are you going to remove the forks from the triple clamps, or are you asking if there's a way to change the fork oil while still installed on the bike? The latter can be done with some tricks, but if your oil is very old it can be sludgy in the bottom. The "drain bolt" in the bottom is also the bolt that holds the bottom of the damper inside the fork assembly, so you are halfway to completely disassembling the fork at that point. You already have the front wheel off and the bike on centerstand to get this far, its better to remove the fork and flush everything with degreaser and then fill with clean oil. If you are suctioning out oil and replacing from the top cap and there's sludge at the bottom...well, no point to the oil change. If you set out to disassemble the damper, thats when it becomes tedious and sensitive to torque values in reassembly. But you can just flush that out really well and get by. The only things left for "full service" are the bushings and seals, which are super duper easy to change. Easier than my mountain bike seals to be honest, which have to be pried out carefully 🙃
  5. I'm a little under Presson's weight. I could get sag in the right place with the stock springs, but the rates were too low. I now have Racetech fork valves and a full Hyperpro shock in the rear, but I was pretty happy with Hyperpro springs alone at both ends. Eats bumps and pot holes mid-corner, leaned way over, no problem: https://hyperpro.com/
  6. This and some zip ties is a PAIR eliminator kit: Dorman 02250 Coolant Bypass Caps - EPDM 5/8in, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z7MM0IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2EHKSAKTC25EFPSZAZY6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Forget what size cap I shoved in the airbox side. I repurchased this because one of mine was cracking about twenty years later. There is also a really good how to out there that shows how to do it by shoving marbles into the PAIR lines if you really want to do very little. The metal plates are nice and better looking but not functionally necessary.
  7. Going back down the rabbit hole with the way back machine across the forums, I think this is relevant for @Dorian too: https://www.bcsportbikes.com/threads/vfr-vtec-must-read-throttle-problems.48472/page-2 http://www.ko4bb.com/doku2015/doku.php?id=yamaha_fz1:gen_2_fuel_snatch_problem Getting back on my VFR ten years later and feeling the early FI implementation that I had completely forgotten about, I remember thinking "Oh FFS, I forgot how bad this could be..." But the Rapidbike makes my VFR better on this problem front too. It is waaaaaaay easier to control mid corner by throttle, including on and off clover leaf ramps where I'm leaned way over but trying to stay between merging (poorly driven) cars each day at low to lowish speed. Could do it acceptably before but its infinitely smoother now and don't have to think about it so much.
  8. Exactly. "User experience" is hard to capture but I think the only reason he might be seeing a difference, if there is one, is because he has a full exhaust. Should not make any observable difference, but if it is, maybe that's why.
  9. O2 sensor won't play into any of this, it's only used at steady state cruising unless you install a Rapidbike or PC with autotune, which use them all of the time. Likewise, remember the ECU controls PAIR with a solenoid, and PAIR won't be open at steady state cruising for the most part. If you listen to your bike closely, you should be able to hear the reed valves when they are opening...half the reason some of us disabled ours TBH. No reason not to install the eliminators, you may or may not notice any difference. Completely reversible too. I think the overall reason you are seeing issues and PAIR is affecting it when it shouldn't, is you're running stock ECU with a full exhaust. The bike runs lean, and then very lean in the midrange to meet emissions requirements, and then the stock ECU dials it back even further in midrange cruise, etc. Normally with a stock exhaust, blocking PAIR does nothing but remove a noise and some complexity. I never thought my bike was missing much in mid range either even though I knew it quantitatively was. Installed the Rapidbike before my full exhaust and it sure is missing a lot in mid range. The exhaust opens it up quite a bit further, from 6K up. It turned carb-smooth with the closed loop defeat hack, but overall much smoother and useable with RB filling in the fueling and ignition maps in the middle.
  10. So the ECU and O2 sensors don't work exactly like in a car, where the vehicle is almost always in closed loop mode. In the VFR, it only goes into closed loop mode at steady throttle, it's otherwise open loop. This is why there are ~20 years of topics where people say "Help, my RPMs drop at steady throttle, WTF?" The O2 sensors aren't used outside of this and don't affect other behavior. If you search "VFR closed loop o2 sensors" you will find something like infinity discussions on this, going back to the early days. That being said, O2 sensor eliminators don't eliminate the problem completely (ha!) so it is clearly also a bit open loop behavior. I think this might be to save the cats, or because Honda's green preferences. Whichever it is, there's only two ways to go after that problem. The Power Commander just re-maps after the ECU which is why it's never made the closed loop issues completely go away, while the Rapidbike actually uses the O2 sensors and other inputs and hijacks the FI and ignition signals. Anyway, not 100% sure what you mean by "snatchiness" but it won't cause the specific behavior you mention, which is shutting way down when you move the throttle. It can make the throttle feel a bit like "piece-wise linear logic," where instead of a smooth ramp, there are steps in behavior. Like instead of going up or down a tiny bit, you are moving 100-200 RPM in a big step that you weren't expecting, and you hunt back and forth to get where you want. If this is part of what you're seeing, the O2 eliminators can help but won't 100% cure it. I can see PAIR possibly affecting you, especially with a full exhaust including cat delete. Everyone gets rid of PAIR and no one has ever had negative problems. Starter valve sync and throttle cables are another possible culprit...the starter valves "shouldn't" affect performance in any way after the bike is warm but they have always seemed to. My bike did somewhat better after the sync, but nothing made the lean and surge behavior go away except for the ECU defeat cheat code and later Rapidbike.
  11. FWIW, even with O2 eliminators into place, my bike still exhibited the same behavior of leaning and surging at cruise. I think there's really an open loop direction to lean the bike at cruise RPM that comes into play regardless of inputs. Two methods to get around the behavior: one is Rapidbike, which makes it go away and makes the bike better, especially with exhaust. Second option, which actually does work and was discovered by some other VFR owners, is to defeat the ECU closed loop mode entirely. I was doing this before I got a Rapidbike and wish I'd known about it when I first bought the bike: - Turn ignition key switch on, kill switch on - *Before the fuel pump completes priming (whining noise) and dash is done booting, hit the starter! - If you did it right, the bike will *not* go into closed loop, or fake closed loop mode What I usually did last year if my bike was cold was let the pump prime, then switch the key switch off, and then start it during the second boot sequence. Whenever I forgot to do this, I knew I forgot once I was at steady speed between 4K and 7K RPM.
  12. I agree with Grum on attacking the fuel system side of it. I have a 2002 as well and this is in my list of things to do. Would not hurt to replace the fuel filter while you're at it. California gas has up to 10% ethanol and it does pull down your efficiency a lot. Like ~10% or so in cars and trucks I've had. Bike efficiency is a little less consistent to observe but should be equivalent. So to give you a benchmark, my 2002 with full exhaust and a Rapidbike, but original fuel injectors and filter and no starter valve sync since 2008 or so is giving me 38-42 mpg consistently. If I really wring it out for fun I will see 35 mpg or so. Mostly commuting, with saddlebags which in the long ago dropped a few mpg on me. If you are using the upper half of the tachometer where VTEC activates, expect to be using a whole lot more fuel though! You can drive it down low in the 30s if you are riding hard or at high RPM a lot. Over the years I think most people on the forum have observed that VTEC can make your efficiency vary wildly, with some low RPM riders seeing nothing but 40+ and a lot of the racer chaser set or people who are just accustomed to riding a sport bike in the middle of the power band seeing numbers in the 30s.
  13. Similar...on my 6th gen I put a 20 lb or so dumb bell in each saddlebag, and a tool case or another weight on the back seat. Since there is a tiny chance of earthquakes here, if it's going to be a long time, I will put something under the front of the engine case as well.
  14. This thread is already 😬. Yikes! If you poke around with Google and look at the really old threads here, you'll find that rewinding the tensioners is never successful. Nor were tricks like opening up the oil port. No way out of just buying a new one. If I recall correctly, the new part number is also the 8th gen part number and those are stouter. Hence why all the threads are pretty old.
  15. One OBTW, I think you are just running up against obsolescence. The sixth gen is half the price, as are all the newer CBR variants.
  16. https://zerogravity-racing.com/collections/honda-vfr/products/honda-vfr-800-98-01?variant=30143547729 SR from Zero Gravity is what you want. The Double Bubble is a turbulence generator to me. I have the SR (stock replacement) on my sixth gen. Looks good, same smooth airflow as stock.
  17. Nice work! Aside from the VFRNess, look into replacing the regulator-rectifier (RR). It's the source of the issues that the VFRNess helps mitigate, but upgrading to a newer, MOSFET based design at least, or the SH847. This will save your stator down the road...before I replaced mine, the bike always smelled like hot electrical wiring during or after rides. Not anymore! Also on windscreens, if you don't need the wind protection for temperature or rain, the stock/OEM shape has much less turbulence compared to the ones with lips and bubbles. Zero Gravity's "SR" series is stock-shaped but cleaner looking. I have had some of the after market shapes in the past...with the exception of a really tall one that does the same thing as the extension you've got, most of the bubbles and lips just create turbulence and aim it at my helmet.
  18. I suspect the dealer changed the outer seal but not inner. Some oil film gets past my new seals but not like old seals. See part 21: One other reason "why" is the original seals could have just aged out, and in addition to grit allowed water and other contaminants in. And whatever is still in there is still in there. It occurs to me the dealership could have (don't know why they would do this, but...) just replaced the seals or just upper and not oil and whatnot. Or, they could have replaced the oil but not cleaned out the bottom. FYSA, when I got my bike back in 2020 and serviced the forks, the last time they had been apart was in 2007 when I revalved them. I want to say the other two owners put about 10,000 beginner and commuting miles on it past whatever I did after that. The bottom was something like crude oil and the seals were not awesome. (Bike was clearly parked outside in the weather and the upper seals were cracking...so there is that.) I only know this because I completely disassembled the fork and looked at the damper and bottom of the lowers to clean them out. There are two dozen different versions of "servicing" forks for oil change or maybe outer seal swap that would not lead you to clean out the bottom of the fork. I think I've even done the oil change with a siphon method without removing the forks. Let alone a technician who's doing a bunch of things today and maybe isn't going to take the time you or I would to make sure it's clean and grit-free after removing the sludge. I guess it's possible that your bushings are bad enough to misalign your seals enough to let oil out and other things in. But even my bushings weren't that bad after pumping sludge, and I think you would notice other problems.
  19. Looking around for the how-to. Meanwhile, are you able to remove your forks yourself, and leave the bike balanced on the center stand wherever you park it? If so, hardest part is really over. The seals and bushings are actually really easy to change. Goes something like this if you want to consider DIY, and I'll add some extra steps: * Buy the parts you need first: seals, bushings, and the gasket/crush washer for the bottom of the fork. - Loosen the top caps before you remove the forks from the upper triple crown. - Remove the forks (remove front wheel, front fender, brakes, and make sure something is holding up the brakes so they're not stretching the lines...I put mine on a 1' tall tool case). - Remove the stanchion protectors (plastic shields). - Remove the top cap, push stanchion down. The top cap should pull up the damper rod. You should see some flat sections you can get a wrench around, along with the upper spring perch (has a notch so you can just take it out). Remove spring perch, unscrew top cap from damper rod and put all of these things aside. - Pull springs out. - Invert fork and dump oil in a container. If your dealership did their job...oil shouldn't look that bad. - Possibly using an impact wrench, possibly not, unscrew the 6mm Allen bolt at the bottom of the fork. The damper rod should come out. Here comes the surprisingly easy part! Pull up on the stanchion, and the bushings and upper seals will come out. May have to knock it a few times like a slide hammer. Clean out all of the parts really well. This is a good time to consider revalving with Racetech if you haven't done it, or changing fork springs. If you revalve, one OBTW is polish the damper rod really well while you've got the damper apart. But no reason to disassemble damper if youre not revalving, just blast it clean with something like White Lightning. Bonus steps: I forget who told me to do this, but now is a great time to resurface your stanchions. Clean off the rust and wet sand (I used isopropyl, steel wool, and 1000 grit) the pits flat. Then use phosphoric acid to convert the rust, and then seal with expoxy ( I wiped it over, then wiped it off real quickly several times until I got it very flat. Did not leave it on the chrome long enough to turn hard and require sanding or something later).
  20. Okay I solved the metal flake separation / color lightening issue. Got a 0.5mm nozzle and tested it tonight. Got the correct shade of blue out of it, so I will be able to correct my paint correctly from now on. What else does this mean? I'm going to get really adventurous painting my second set of VFR body work and tank 😁
  21. If "autotuning capability" is what you mean, Rapidbike for the win! 😁 I haven't messed with mine since I installed it and the lean/surge closed loop behavior has never returned. I don't think any stripe of Power Commander will do real time monitoring and correction like RB will.
  22. I have questions... 👀 🤣
  23. Found this on Amazon - it matches any of the R157 red bikes (5th, 6th, or 8th gen) very well. Ignore the fading on my tank, I have a new one to install soon that will match my new bodywork better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XD1GP2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZS2F47B5HRM7692TY62?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  24. Repaired a rust spot under the roof rails of my truck. Not the perfect color match I was hoping for, but its a 17 year old truck and the paint shop cost would probably exceed its trade in value. Did this with paint from automotivetouchup.com and 1:1 thinner in my Iwata airbrush. Non metallics like my VFR come out easier to match of course!
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