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Bren last won the day on October 13

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    Vfr 800/'98

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  1. I never got on with iPhones, Android user but I do have an ipad. I want it higher because if I've got my tankbag on I wouldn't see it there, I have a short arm and it ends up too low down. Plus if I'm using Maps I want it higher up so I don't have to look so far down.
  2. That looks good but too low for me. You need a special case for your phone to attach it correct? Is the case waterproof? I now have 2 different mounts I've been playing around with and just waiting on a long arm to come in for me to decide. I tried the front tank bolts position but the ball was very close to the tank, then tried it on the clutch master clamp. Now I've got a stem mount to try. I'll update when I have finally procrastinated enough!
  3. Very helpful, thanks again! Sure will, just need to play about first then send back what I'm not keeping.
  4. Perfect, thank you for this! That's where I want mine(ish) but I need a longer arm though as my tank bag is quite tall. I'll have to play around with the bits I got and see what I come up with.
  5. And your yellow one.... MBD + 1 lucky you!
  6. On your red 5th Gen, what length arm is that? That looks like the ticket
  7. Very nice. For the record it won't be a RAM phone holder mount as I don't like the rubber web thingy. I'm more curious in where the ball is mounted and the arm used. I'm trying to decide if I drill and tap into the top bridge/yoke to position it where I can see the speedo and led screen or take an easier option 😏
  8. 5th Gen 1998 but probably relevant for all gen's I've bought a couple of different phone holders to try out but I'm undecided which to use, where to place it, where to fix the ball, which ball, etc etc. Anyone care to share some photos of how they did it please? Likes, dislikes what you'd do different as well!
  9. @Captain 80s Here's some close ups of how I made it. Bolted to the wall is a U channel with holes drilled along the side flange to position the arm wherever I want, I could have fixed it higher up but it's easy enough to move if I have to because the holes on the back are all equidistant. The curved piece was bent with a lot of heat and is matches the radius pretty well. I welded the whole lot up, smoothed my terrible lumpy bumpy welds and gave it a spray of paint. I added some rubber tubing before using it to make sure there was no steel to rim interference going on. The arm with the breaker part can be moved on the lever arm to suit. I have to get a proper bar to fit in there which matches the inside dimensions to make it work even better, the bar I used was round and thin walled so bent a bit and I had to keep turning it. Lastly, folded away for next time with my hard foam covered timber frame to keep the rims off the ground and protect my discs. I use a strap around the rim and frame to stop it tipping when in use. All in all its simple and works well for me. If anyone wants measurements or whatever let me know.
  10. That's exactly what I thought and seating the bead was so easy. This was the first time changing my own tyres and I was prepared - 3 tyre irons, rim protectors, mounting paste and weights that I sprayed yellow to kind of match my wheels. Didn't scratch my rims, didn't pay dealer prices and got to build something, my bead breaker 😁 I've since added plastic tubing cut lengthways to the bottom and side edges to make sure I don't scratch anything. Happy!
  11. Just a note to this thread, I changed out the 2015 tyres for my 2021 Pilot Powers. Now it may be the carcass is stiffer on the PR2, or their age, but the PP went on so much easier than the PR2 were to take off. I mean really easy. They popped onto the rim so quick and relatively quietly, they did pop, I was unsure at first but after inspection and reinflating I confirmed they were on right. I balanced both and the front didn't need any weight at all, I changed to 90 degree valves also and the tyres didnt have a dot to note the heavy part of the tyre. Rock solid up to 2xx kmh. Impressions are as expected from new sports tyres - bike feels and turns great with lots of confidence. I know the profile of the PP is different but I think in future I won't be keeping them on for so long as the last set. As my mileage has dropped dramatically, 800 miles last year 😭, I dont anticipate them lasting over the 5 years anyway, the whole reason I chose them in the first place. Once my kids are older and I get a life again then I can consider using ST tyres again, until that time I'll just enjoy the great grip and feedback from these 👍I'm very happy with them.
  12. My 20a fuse was from a long ago rewire attempt to keep the original rectifier going before the fh020 came along. Should have changed it out long ago but life and everything else......I forgot. Fuse B should be a 30a and I too will be putting in new fuses everywhere as some are definitely original ie. 24 years old. What a great bike. I have to do a write up in winter of what I've done the last years. May entertain, may not. YMMV.
  13. Hi Grum, Thanks for your valued advice as ever! It's great so many knowledgeable people helping others on this board 👏 Off to amazon I go....
  14. @Grum what should be used here instead? I have little knowledge of electrics but can, kind of, solder and bodge metri packs together. Thanks for any tips you can share.
  15. As I've recently had a meltdown of main fuse B all things elektrikery seem to interest me again. Sorry i cant help but there are some great people on here who know their stuff for that kind of thing. Did you check yours yet?
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