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Bren

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Bren last won the day on September 16 2023

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About Bren

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  • Location
    Vienna
  • In My Garage:
    Vfr 800/'98

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  1. I'm not even retired and I don't have enough time to put on more than about 1k a year. 2 kids, a house that I built, and a very, shall we say, selfish/vindictive/physco wife does that to you. The wife bit will be ending soon but not the kids thankfully. 2024 is going to be different.
  2. I have the same hugger, check my gallery for pics of fitting it.
  3. @Skids looks good to me. I would do the electrical connectors purely due to the age, I see you have this listed already. Do you intend to change out the most likely stock RR? I got a CBR500 one which is a FH020 and it´s working perfectly, I used the Metri Pack connectors for the stator connection also instead of hard wiring them so I can remove it if necessary. If it gives you peace of mind then check the valves, won´t harm anything. Enjoy the servicing its a great winter pastime when its not possible to ride 🍺
  4. Tidy solution 👌 @vfrgiving but I won't be drilling or sticking anything onto my Harris carbon fibre hugger, it's too damn nice! The line doesn't move about if at all, I'm not worried it falls into the rear wheel (too tight/short anyway and fixed to the hugger chain guard), locks it up and I crash, burn and go to the afterlife. Agree with @bmart Very cheesy piece.
  5. Isn't that the thing for guiding the rear brake line? Goes under the bolt for tightening the eccentric? Mine broke so I left it off, no problems with steel lines as they are anyway less flexible.
  6. I think the VFR800 from 2002 onwards has 43mm forks, if you want to use a vfr top triple tree those cbr900rr forks will also have to be 43mm. You'll have to check that or get a different top triple.
  7. Great job there, a lot of effort to get it looking virtually new again! The paint looks really good 👍
  8. I think I read once that those ground wires should be joined together into 2 groups as that's how they are in that orange block? I've never had to do this, yet, but probably will one day so I'd like to be prepared.
  9. Can't help with the rev counter as that goes into electrical territory which I'm crap at but there are some very knowledgeable members on here that help others a lot! I would suggest you check the speed sensor which goes onto the front sprocket nut. This is a plastic piece that often doesn't get fitted back on to the nut properly and rounds out causing speed reading irregularities. Good luck.
  10. No never seen this. I have a 98 and it doesn't lean over that far on the side stand. You need to investigate further, either something isn't tight or its bent. OR the previous owner fitted a shorter side stand because he lowered it but that wouldn't explain the movement you're seeing. Hth.
  11. @Grum Good to hear you beat it, couldn't have been a good time for you. On the positive side you can ride again so things are on the up! I also enjoy your posts and expertise on here, even though most of them just confuse me - electrics! Enjoy the wine 🍷
  12. Thanks @Dangeruss for the tips and advice. I decided on the 641 as its suitable for disassembly which some of the others aren't without a great deal of heat which I don't want to inflict on my wheel. After more research , I will be removing the bearing and doing similar to what you suggested in contrast to my previous process above. I took the wheel off again today in preparation. I used a drift from the other side to gently push it out until I felt resistance, then I turned it over and I was able to, forcibly, push the bearing back into its seat with my thumbs. It's not flopping about and needs a good push to force it back down but that's not right, it should be tight in the pocket or the whole oscillating forces will probably make the pocket even wider/more oval. I'm pretty sure now that the pocket for the bearing has been expanded by a clumsy, cock-handed attempt at removal or fitting by yours truly. Even though I've done this many times this is proof that anyone can cock up anything. I'll report back on my wheel escapades!
  13. Thanks @Mohawk for your input. The parts are correct, been in use some 15+ years now and only now a problem.
  14. Again, appreciate the advice @Thumbs. I think you're right on the drift method to remove the bearing previously not being as exact as I thought I was doing it ie. slowly around the edges. 641 ordered and on the way!
  15. I made sure the bearing seats were clean before fitting, I had also taped off the wheel myself before powder. I think it would matter if it has any play because even though the spacers hold it in place laterally the bearing can still move up, down, sideways and with the forces of suspension etc it would rattle it around eventually shaking the bearing to bits. This is my understanding and suspicion anyway of what happened to the old bearing. That would be the 648 which is a permanent adhesion type of compound, I don´t want to use this as it would be a nightmare to remove the bearing again in the future. I´m still researching how I´ll do it but the first idea is not to drive the bearing out again but leave it in and apply the loctite 641 around the circumference of the bearing outer race. This 641 is supposed to have a low viscosity so I´m hoping it drains down where there are any gaps. It sets in 10 minutes, fully cured in 24 hours, so I would have enough time to then quickly reinstall the wheel so it sets in the correct position. Very much my feeling too. Thanks. I´ll update my success or failure!
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