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About Bren

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    Installation is the reverse of removal....What the F%$§

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    Vfr 800/'98

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  1. I agree. No one is making the exotic parts so many are looking for except for people like Seb. To be fair no one is or has ever made a lot of things for these bikes as they are not mainstream as so many know and comment on day after day. Things like this take huge budgets to bring to market, even if you're in a country with low overheads ie.Tyga in Thailand. If a manufacturer, or a sole trader for that matter, offer to refund then accept or live with it. On the other side of the coin, if something is a bit fiddly to fit or difficult for the average person this should also be commented on for anyone who has the product in hand but not yet fitted so they know what to expect. So both sides shouldn't be offended or get their knickers all twisted. No one who has been around for a while doubts the opinion or skills of either involved. Bren mediator and peace maker, sometimes chief shit stirrer, in industry and bike forums 😉
  2. came already done. looks good, I like. Also came with the preload adjusters and the R&G axle sliders. I wouldn´t have bought these myself so it was nice to get them included. bike looking really good these days, you´ve been busy.
  3. This is what I did last year, haven´t been here for a long time due to various reasons. Similar to what JHZ is thinking. Took a bit of fitting, removal and grinding multiplied by 10!! But better to take off small bits of material at a time and get it right the first time. Bolt has been changed to a Grade 12. Drilled right through the lower, didn´t trust just tapping a thread. Solid as a rock and relatively easy, just takes patience. and here it is all buttoned up Hope this helps or ask if not. oh I did have to trim ever so slightly the fairing inner towards the front because of the pinch bolts on the lower, very minor and could´ve left it but, well, you know.................. oh again, I drilled the hole in the solid alu bar off center so that I had more meat to the headstock side, for grinding etc. I think it was 25mm dia. I may consider getting them welded to the lower one day.
  4. Installation is the opposite of removal......what the F$&/k!!

  5. Twanged is when it goes on with a rubber mallet, Pranged is when the sledgehammer is called into service :blush: Luckily all on fleabay is not complete crap. Been waiting for you to update your thread on the rear caliper bridge line. Fancy making 2 ????? PO´s should not be allowed to work on their bikes, they will only bugger it up. Only " WE " can do it right and not cock it up :idea3: Still waiting on pics Pete
  6. So not to start another thread... I noticed my forks were different lengths WTF? Measured while together and came to 6mm. I hadn´t intended taking the forks completely apart but as the fork seals needed changing I decided to take them to bits and find out where the difference came from. Well you gotta dont you? Difference in rod length 6mm + beer You can see the rod length difference in this pic. 6mm. I don´t know why but the PO had obviously been in there and had the lower locking nut in a different position to the nut on the other fork. He must have noticed when he took the wheel out at some stage but chose to either ignore it or hit it into submission. Thats whats left over from the special Christmas beer...mmmmm 8% beer happy days :wub: Heres all the new bits installed on the slider. New seals & bushings :idea3: Bren
  7. So I found the offending Bastage. The new, to me, upper fits perfectly as it should, exactly as everyone elses. Well I wouldn´t want to be different would I? :idea3: new upper Big thanks to all the replies, especially the extra effort from a certain few :wub: Bren
  8. Good points Pete. I´ll be sure to check the lower out also. When I came across this difference I couldnt believe it. I started to worry all the difficult to find, read expensive, pieces were scrap. The thought of having to put the whole LBS system back on again wasnt very appealing either. I´ll post some photos when I find the offending piece(s) :rolleyes: Looking for another 954/929 upper, there´s very few about right now on ebay. Unless someone knows if a cbr600RR or something else fits? Bren Ps appreciate the offer for the upper but I´m gonna look for a straight cbr piece.
  9. The SP1 upper and lower look to be in great condition. No obvious dings or bangs. I can see what you´re thinking, especially when one has already been stung, and its completely valid. If the set had a bump as a set then they would still fit together although tweaked. But this would also mean that it wouldn´t sit perfect in the headstock, which my set does. I´m not trying to convince myself that its only the cheap part thats tweaked, therefore saving a lot of swearing, and I mean a lot, but if I can tighten the locknuts etc down to torque spec etc and it still turns free and smooth then I call that straight. Thanks for the thoughts :fing02: Thats how these things are resolved. Bren again nice Öhlins, when you gonna be finished ?
  10. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_plate Thick glass would be the poor man's surface plate. Aha. Well a kitchen granite worktop it will have to be. That will determine the plane of the upper but any ideas for the lower and stem? Bren
  11. Process of elimination - check the CBR U.T. first, because the '51 piece fits. What he needs to do is double and triple check EVERYTHING, and properly. This means v blocks, dial indicators, and surface plates Bren! :rolleyes: I think the idea of process of elimination is the logical next step. I gotta check the CBR upper to see if thats borked first, the pane of glass trick and measuring the "parallelnessises" is what I´ll do here. As a few others have said, I do hope they´re wrong, that maybe the lower triple is tweaked. What is the best way to check the lower triple? Pane of glass trick again but that will only tell me if its tweaked in the North South plane. What about the stem? I assume it should be at 90 degrees to the lower, as was rightly pointed out earlier, that for our VFR, steering angle is taken care of by the frame neck, some raked choppers can also have it in the triple. I´m thinking if the stem were borked that even the SP1 upper wouldn´t fit down on it as straight as it does. I cant see it that landing a wheelie hard could twist the lower, crash different matter, and/or bend the stem. If so it wouldn´t fit as good as it does in the headstock, with the bearings locknuts etc. I will check it but I thinking no to that one. So v-blocks I know and can organise but what are these surface plates? Never heard the term, unless you mean 2 straight edges to "eye" down the length of the forks, which I did in the lower triple and they were parallel at every point I tried. One other thing I remember is the 954 upper was rather difficult to get on. Its been a week now but I´m sure it took more effort to slide/push/tap down the forks than the SP1 upper. Hmmmmmm Thanks for the GREAT advice guys :fing02: Nice Öhlins Rusty!! (insert finger licking good emoticon)
  12. ***applause*** :fing02: Above and beyond.
  13. WOW Thanks for the responses folks :wheel: There is only the triples and forks fitted no other appendages to skew things, fender, wheel, etc. To check for straightness.... I used 2 straight edges across the forks, no upper triple, and viewed from above to see if they lined up. No problem there. I also turned the forks in the lower triple to see if they somehow managed to align themselves with the upper. Nothing. I had considered the lower bearing race wasn´t seated properly and "Triple" checked this (sorry) After much thought, the time to read this post, I have come to the conclusion that you all have unsafe front ends and must stop riding immediately!! :cool: :wheel: :ohmy: Please send all of your uppers, hehe, to me and I´ll dispose of them in a humane and ethical manner. OR, maybe, probably, I need to get a new upper triple. I will check it and report back but it looks likely. At least its a cheap part. Thanks again everyone at least I dont have to worry about something more serious. Bren
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