VFR750F3

check this maybe?

I offered to sell you my full floaters. You never responded. STX05 Brake Disc Front Braking R-STX for HONDA VFR V-TEC ABS 2002 > 2013

I was warping rotors because I was doing track days and the 3rd piston was hanging up causing a lot of chatter. Whatever I did I could not solve the problem. For street use they probably will be fine, Honda developed the linked system for a reason. I watch You tube video explaining why you should use like 5% of the rear brake to get the bike to squat in order to get the most grip out of the rear tire. ie MotoGP rear squat device. If Honda only made them into 6 piston calipers that mounted them axially and with no sliding pins they would be awesome. How many of us over the years have had caliper pins seize up on cars. It just a poor design. Nevertheless, I have Nissin 4 piston calipers on my 1986 VFR750F, 05 RC51 and my 02 VFR800. Never had a issue and went back to using only Honda pads. All other pads I tried were very abrasive. I do like my Brembo on my RRR they are not as grabby. We come from different walks of life to share our loss of money from experience and to save a few people from agony on their journey.

I applaud your effort. You could always install a larger bolt and ie M8 or just use 12.9 M6. I fixated the rod also. I was not happy with the delinked brakes. Even after rebuilding the calipers and getting another set of calipers with new seals the center piston was slow to react ie come out of the bore. I also warped several rotors in the process. I hope you have better luck. Do yourself a favor and get F3 fork legs with some nice gold 4 pistons Nissin calipers and a 14 or 16 master cylinder depending on which Nissin calipers you get.

The pads were even different sizes. As I recall the calipers were redesigned. I own both sets all have different part numbers including the pads.

I took the same lazy mans route with a V2 but then I went I4 16 yrs later.

https://www.tradeinn.com/motardinn/en/yss-pd290-fork-valves/138551624/p?srsltid=AfmBOorNg_aJXc4OkE78RYTr2ACo3lMsZfkOmLyt5zZRSheEgNF7T_AB I purchased these for 37mm fork conversion for a 1977 GS550E There are other sizes available. Much cheaper than Racetech.

Did you bleed the master cylinder from the brake line bolt coming out of the master cylinder? Wrap towel around it pump and open and close rinse and repeat to get all the air out. Also zip tie the clutch lever over night to get the last of the air to come up. Loosen the fill cover to let air escape.

I have the narrow bands running on mine 2002. Runs just fine hooked up a external aftermarket wideband to see where the AFR was. Went from 13.1 open to 15 on idle. When one of O2 sensors went bad it set off a code. So I do not understand running only one. Splicing them together so the ecu see a signal from both I understand I did that on a car with 2 knock sensor when one went bad. I did not want to remove the whole FI and intake manifold to get to it. The way mine is set up it has 2 maps one for the front and one for the rear so you would need 2 O2's. Closed-loop systems can adjust and maintain temperature in response to real-world conditions, while open-loop systems don't have corrective action for changes in output temperature. Therefore the O2 sensor is very beneficial. A single map that does not adjust it not as beneficial. I also own a CBR1000RR-R with a Rapid bike on it. It worked out pretty well but when I did the Woolrich flash and adjusted the AFR with a Zeitronix logger it made a huge difference. The ecu is fighting with the Rapid Bike but when the correct values are in the ecu the Rapid Bike makes small adjustments which I think everyone is after.2 Also if you run a aftermarket fan setup or a manual fan control you can then keep the bike cool enough to stay in a optimal operating range so the Rapid Bike does not need to constantly adjust the mixture. See below from RC51 forum. There are so many little things that have to be accounted for, one of the main issues is engine temperature. With the current 3D mappings now on Fi bikes they respond drastically to temperature variations (especially Honda's with their auto enrichening ECU's that go super rich as the engine temp climbs) & if the dyno operator isn't making sure that he starts the consecutive runs giving sufficient time to get the engine back to the original temp of the baseline run then you can get extreme variances in horsepower up to 7-10 horsepower sometimes from as little as a 5 degree engine temperature change which can give you misleading tuning information if you are not watching for it (& that is just one example). People have asked for more in depth info on this subject so I'm going to add some more: Current Honda ECU's automatically get richer as the engine temp increases the air/fuel ratio is changing constantly at a non linear rate. For instance you may get the 100% perfect map developed for your bike on the dyno & let's say the engine is at 185 degrees, well at certain points in the rev range their are windows in the ECU where the mapping changes the mixture. Let me give you some examples (these windows will be different for each model of bike & even the same model of bike can have different ECU eproms for various countries/regions) 168-172 degrees is a window 173-178 is a window 179-184 is a window 185-194 is a window 195-205 is a window 206-212 is a window 213-218 is a window Each one of those windows has a different mapping forced by the ECU that alters the air fuel ratio of the bike & generally they get richer in steps (sometimes a window at a higher temp can also be leaner) so even though the PCIIIr map may be perfect for 186 degrees it may not be so great for 195 degrees & it then might be worse or better at even 206 degrees etc.... Now with the factory ECU already over rich it is very hard to find these windows even with a gas analyzer on a load control dyno, but once you add a Powercommander & get a good A/F ratio which produces better power & crisper throttle response then you may start to notice that the bike runs better at certain temps than others. Even with the stock ECU you can tell if you know what to feel for. You yourself may have noticed that at certain temps (harder to tell on bikes without a digital gauge) that the bike seems to run smoother & even shifts easier.

I watched a video on you tube and gave it a shot. Putting on a tire with 8 zip ties from the dollar store. Some broke I used a belt tensioner flat tool to get the rest on because I had half the tire on before I put the zip ties on. Rust oleum works great also. I used 2X Semi gloss and gloss clear. I also changed the valve stem. On the rear I left the tire on and used painter tape after breaking the bead. I would of used a deck of playing card which I later found that I did not use. BTW we have a tire changer and a balancer which is at my friends house but i wanted to try something different.

I had to trim the front cowl. I actually broke it. Will replace. I have a spare just have to find it. Moved right oil cooler line bracket to the outside. It gave me alittle more room. I moved fan again only 2 mounting points used some foam pads on the other 2 sides. Installed toggle switch and fan relay to turn on fans. Should of gone with a smallerr Spal. The fairinngs are a pain to get back on especially when you lost wiggle room. Only take this on if you have a weekend free lol.

Stock fan left with superhawk blade. Perma Cool right fan modded to fit under fairing with super nice chinese rads. The PermaCool rad is rated for 2400CFM which is BS. Tried emailing them and calling them no response. I also fitted these chinese rads to my RC51 with dual Spal amazing. Working on getting the fans to work with aftermarket fan controller. I have a toggle for now. Bike ran umder 200 with no fan. Blue coolant type 2 from Honda automotive.

I have a gas tank for a 87 VFR700 has 1 small dent no rust in tank. Email me I can send some pictures.

1986 VFR750F with CBR900RR fork. Wanted more ground clearance. Triple tree 19mm gullwing. Stock ignition lock and fuse box are in stock location.

Braking rotors new rotor bolts and new full floating buttons. Approximately 1000miles on rotors. Tire not included. Bolts and button $160 alone will not separate. $350 shipped only US Paypal accepted buyer pays fees. Touched up wheel ie paint chips. I also have matching rear hub sprocket spindle available.