sa1713

I sent a stator to Custom Rewind and had them upgrade the windings as well as put a Yamaha connector on the output leads. Got it back and installed it in a buddy's 98 with about 20k miles on it. We previously installed an R1 R/R but this was on our list to complete. Even with the R1 R/R, his volts never rose above 13.6v. It appears we completed the upgrade in time..... Custom Rewind continues to do excellent work, 14.4v at idle.

Hi sa1713, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I have air, fuel, and spark at each plug. Sidestand/neutral/bank angel sensors are functional. The engine seems to turn over a bit slower than I'm used to. Battery is fully charged. I believe the engine was assembled correctly and have no reason to believe differently. Next step is to check the pulse generator.

Great tips Gents. A bit cold for me to begin working down the list right now. I hope a slight thaw in the next few days.

HRT engine is in and all plumbing/electrical are connected. Having a bit of trouble firing as I only get a puff or two while cranking. I've checked all my connections and I'm sure fuel is present. I'll start the drill and work on the spark side of the triangle. Input is welcome. Jim

Step 1 of the swap. Original engine in the storage cradle. Salvaged frame with legs. I hope to spoon the HRT engine in tomorrow. Injectors returned and are ready for install. All 8 are now back to factory speck. Waiting on SS silicone clamps (arrival tomorrow), new thermostat and a few more small bits. Hope to fire it up sometime next week.

Injector RX received my injectors today, and they already completed the cleaning/refurb. They ship back tomorrow. Now, I sent the 8, hoping to get a good set of 4. Well, all 8 are now back to factory spec. Anybody in need of 4 factory new injectors?

Best pics I could achieve of the water pump. Not sure how much was done to the fins, but he cleaned up the inside of the cover. Craig is a super easy person to deal with. He is a very honest chap even when presented with an open checkbook. Cooling system is removed. Next will be the header, swingarm pivot bolt, and remaining frame mounts.

Good news! I have the engine back from Hanson Racing Technology, Craig Hanson, in Chico, CA. I made a trip recently to ship it back east. Forward Air is about as easy to deal with as my brushless automatic car wash. No issues. Here are the build details: Mild cam hard face and grind by Web Cams (Don't ever use Dave Dodge. PM me and I'll explain) Intake and exhaust ports ported/polished. Valves and seats ground. Exhaust ports ceramic coated Water pump cover modified and ported to allow better flow Air intake funnels ground to match throttle body intake diameter Counter sprocket bolt cover (keeps rust/dust off the splines) A shift star and detent arm was installed as well as a new Custom Rewind stator. New SAMCO hoses/clamps will go on too. I'm in the process of gathering all the necessary bits for the swap. I have a spare frame (salvaged) that was turned into a three legged mare which the original engine will hang in while I decide what to do with it. I'm not sure what the results will be, but I'll get it to a dyno and post the results.

WSS and all, sorry for the delay of delays. The gasket kit was ordered two weeks ago so I imagine it will be back together soon..... Pickup will be another story as my local connect may not be an option. Once I have my hands on the package, I'll update then. Yes, sorry for the teasers and delays.

No worries. Just a bunch of other "world" stuff going on and this project has taken a back seat. Once I get it installed I will post up. Sorry to keep folks hanging, but life does tend to interrupt our best plans. Have a safe New Year.

Craig is finishing up the small bits. I am eagerly awaiting the results now that I've swapped the PCV for a RB module.

You won't need to break the OEM glass. I heated the housing up using halogen shop lights and gently popped the mirror out using a plastic scraper. Once the housing is warm enough, the lip holding the mirror in is easy to get under. I did this several times while mounting my volt meter behind the glass.