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BusyLittleShop last won the day on February 1

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

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About BusyLittleShop

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    Have a Wheelie Nice Day
  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, VFRD Peg Lowering Blocks exclusively for VFR. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. I forget who I swapped Mr.RC45 for their VTEC VFR north of Eureka Ca... I was so surprised to feel the hit in Honda's famous linear power ban that I thought I was bumped from behind... it was like I was back on the old cammy hit I4s...
  2. My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... Owners have their doubts too even naming VTEC Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... granted it worked on heavy cars but it's more of a unwanted bump in the powerband on a light bike... Makota San down on cannery row...
  3. At this junction I'd eliminate the items listed in the VFR shop manual...
  4. THE CHOICE The choice is yours but I'd start plugging because there is mounting evidence that plugged tires work and are safe... I have yet to note anyone armed with first hand knowledge to the contrary... REPAIRS Minor tire repair is limited to an area of three quarters of the normal section width. The maximum diameter of penetration damage and/or cracking at the base of the injury should be no greater than 3mm. The repair patches must not overlap. For permanent repair,it is only recommended that small punctures restricted to the tread area be repaired, using a rope type plug. The current condition of a tire is important in determining whether a tire is suitable for repair. Some damage limits include: if the tire has reached its minimum tread depth as indicated by the TWI (tire wear indicator); ply separation, separation of inner liner and or cutting of ply cords by penetrating object; brittle or cracked rubber caused by exhaust heat; broken or bent bead wire, damaged bead zone; damage caused by under-inflation; softening or swelling of rubber due to oil or chemical attack; punctures too close together; damage or previous repair of a puncture outside of area specified for suitable repair. MY EXPERIENCES My screwed Rennsport... boo hoo... My plugged Rennsport that covered 2K miles and not in moderation either... it's seen over a 140 mph more than once... Inside the Rennsport for proof that the rope type plugs stay intact whereas my mushroom type plug started to come unstuck You can see by the diagram that Safety Seal plugs that are installed properly establish an mushroom shape inside the carcass that holds fast under pressure... you'd have more luck pushing the plug inside carcass than you'll ever have it pop out under pressure... I don't recommend the inside mushroom type plugs because they can become unstuck... Technically speaking the inside patch is solely dependent on a bond between a plug company's material and the tire manufacture's rubber compound... thats a crap shoot the two chemical compounds are compatible enough to hold a bond when the rubber is stationary and at room temperature... but tires are elastic bodies that flex from completely round to completely flat at every rotation... every rotation builds heat that works against that bond... every rotation flexes that mushroom patch from round to flat that works against that bond.... so we have heat coupled with flex working against the two competing chemical bonds from being as consistence as a self vulcanizing rope plug installed from the outside... Staying stuck and holding air is all you can ask for in a plug installed by the masses...
  5. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: and the *proper* order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)
  6. Too tight chain will moan under the stress... never experience a shudder because the rear sprocket cush drive absorbs any vibrations from migrating to the front...
  7. Inner and otter baskets are cast aluminum and may not run true even when new... Honda considers it normal and thats why I machine my own billet basket on my 500 Belt-o-Ceptor... I may machine a billet basket on Mr.RC45 because it wobbles like yours... VFR800 Problem develops over time and its normal for the clutch knock at idle... over time means slop develops allowing the gear teeth to knock about and thus the noise... grab the clutch lever and the inner basket helps align the outer basket and the noise deadens... the only cure is to eliminate the slop with new clutch parts... namely replace the clutch guide p/n 22116-MB0-000 and clutch bearing 91024-MB0-003 Another cure is aftermarket exhaust and ear plugs which effectively curbs the amount of clutch noise from invading your space...
  8. Negative... SN are not backwards compatible with SM... SN is new and improved over SM... SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories. SN - Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. Energy Conserving is not additive... its an API test that this "oil may result is an overall saving of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole"... Technically speaking Energy Conserving tested oil can not defeat a wet clutch in good working order... what is confusing the issue is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point in their life and start to slip... no one complains about clutch slip when the bike is new... but on about the 27K to 57K range is when contaminants may build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle like at a track day... in error one can blame the oil but its really the contaminants on the clutch plates... So the notion that we should stay away from EC oil is on shaky ground... fact is I've been using 5/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified 10% freer flowing than non EC oil... and we're talking about Honda's homologated racer with a tall first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch plates...
  9. Yes... WFO (wide fooking open)
  10. Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...
  11. Its possible you boiled your brake fluid because it was contaminated with moisture and your new pads generated excessive heat... Understanding Brake fluid DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based brake fluids whereas DOT 5 are Silicone based... Glycol based fluids are designed to signal moisture contamination by changing color... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, then dark brown indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark and yukky, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... Boiling point of Glycol based brake fluids DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) DOT 5 Silicone based fluid will not turn color to signal moisture content... Boiling point of Silicone based brake fluids DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) If you wish to use the latest in Glycol base fluids then its DOT 5.1 Note: DOT 5 silicone was created at the request of the military for use in vehicles that are required to be parked for years at a time and be ready for deployment. Harley-Davidson used DOT 5 until a decade ago because it would not negatively affect paint but currently specifies DOT 4 or 5.1 WARNING: Dot 5.1 glycol (yellow) and Dot 5 silicone (purple) will not mix. Moisture Contaminated
  12. You're right... I joined Speedzilla because it was very lively... however my love for V4s clashed with the V2 crowd... do you remember their Larry poll??? How tired are you of listening to Larry's V4 rants? View Poll Results: 1)They dont bother me, I like V4s and think RC45s are super-duper 16 15.38% 2)Its getting a little old, but I still like V4 engines 34 32.69% 3) Im sick of it, and swear to only buy inline 4 powered bikes from now on 0.0% 4) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LARRY SHUT THE **** UP 54 51.92% Dezmo Excercise your right to vote. 1996900sp I"ll chime in. I have a 6th gen VFR what about that? I always thought the RC30 was the bike to have and the 45 was pretty much a pile is that wrong? Old Baldy For me, Option #3 might have been better with something like, "I'm truly sick and tired of it, but still appreciate that a V4 is a nice motor" Much as I'm tired of his almost comical rhetoric, I just can't bring myself to Option #4..............so #2 it is, for me. hawkti V-4 thumpsup twowheelcossack The never ending saga continues. Sigh. duckdawg maybe if you had two V4s... gixracer voted babyabby I have not had the so called pleasure of owning a V4 but I am intrigued by the new VMAX and just might go to the dark side!!!! roadkill #2 for me.......Larry's fanaticism does not bother me one bit. Just ignore it if it bothers you. I loooooooove my V4 BTW Gog Not too many have pride, passion and pedigree to Larry's extent. mrgrn did you know the rc30 WAS HAND ASSEMBLED BY ONE OF THREE TEAMS OF 4 MEN and they could only make 60 bikes per week. the bodywork was hand laid glass and the RC30 was solely built to win suzuka, which it did cb186 i'll vote as soon as there is an option atleast 10x stronger than #4. 1996900sp Was GINA a V4? If not she should have been the superior power would have reformed the frame while in motion. Old Baldy Originally Posted by Busy Little Shop View Post Hey Larry... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SHUT THE **** UP... hahahahhahahahhahahhahahhaha!!!! This is why I love the guy...at the same time as being so damned frustrated with his illogical biased BS. No matter what anyone says....Larry's a true motorcyclist and enthusiast. And I still want to knock his block off every now and again. Barry cheekybloke You got to respect the guy but it is all getting out of hand. roadkill No one is making you or anyone else here read it. Just my 2cents Old Fart 100% with your analogy and no ill will to Larry cheekybloke If I did that there would hardly be a thread on here to read, It's like viral advertising. Have a look any thread that has anything about an IL4 or V twin and even the one make tyre thread. mtmansl +1 (what Old Baldy said) Matthew robfromsc Originally Posted by mrgrn View Post it is certainly better than your constant retoric or your blathering on about your $20,000 super fast 600cc bike Originally Posted by cheekybloke View Post Mind it is still better than reading about the latest second rate carbonfibre tut you have spawned and are trying to push on people. robfromsc you guys need to go ahead and screw and just get it out of the way... Much better to listen to Larry and the v4 this and v4 that, than you two and your little pork hanging internet ego contest... go get laid or something ...geesh! Realmanken I love hearing what Larry has to say. Sometimes when Im bored, I'll log onto Speedzilla and actively search threads where Larry has posted so that I might enrichen my knowledge more in depth on the properties of a V-4 engine. Coincidentally, I dont have to search for very long to find a thread because Larry has a post on every sinlge thread created since he's joined. Kidding Larry! I really do love reading your posts on V-4's though. Keep em coming!! VIVA LA V-4!!!! banda Larry is the only speedzilla member on my ignore list. Unfortuantely, people still respond to him and quote his drivel, so it's hard to completely avoid his V4 ravings.
  13. First the RVF prototype then production RVF750 Mr.Honda, the consummate engineer, never waived from his dream of racing a 4 stroke designed by his employees built solely under the roof of his Japanese factory... he petitioned the ruling bodies to allow 750cc 4 strokes to compete with the 500cc 2 strokes... so under his command HRC designed the RVF750 to be 85% Gp machines for its respective period... the Old Man understood that if his plan to fill the dwindling Gp grids with his RVF works 4 stroke machines fell short he would undoubtable produce one soundly competitive WSBK machine... From 1990 on Mick Doohan and Wayne Gardner had a direct input in the development of the RVF750 works machines... If you want know what a Honda 750 4 stroke Gp racer feels like then the RC45 is for you... RC45 and the RVF Works Bike
  14. Mercy not a shame because according to HRC the RC30 engine is a modified street design hence VFR750R whereas the RC45 is a totally fresh designed hence RVF750...
  15. Start with draining and wire wheel (Dremel) the steel impeller on the water pump back to new condition... fill with 50% 50% and monitor any new rust... then go into the thermostat...
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