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BusyLittleShop last won the day on October 20 2021

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

About BusyLittleShop

  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, VFRD Peg Lowering Blocks exclusively for VFR. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. You'll find the job is easier if you first heat up the engine to operating temp and then tackle the joint... heat will expand the grip on the clamp... the hotter the better...
  2. The length of time that gasoline can be left in your fuel tank or carburetors without causing functional problems will vary depending on a variety of factors. Fuel formulations... Depending on where you operate your engine, fuel may deteriorate and oxidize more rapidly... Factors include: The air volume in a partially filled fuel tank promotes fuel deterioration. Very warm storage, high humidity and variable temperatures accelerate fuel deterioration. I personally use the 6 month fuel storage rule... any bike in the shop will receive new fuel every 6 months...
  3. I recommend Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the tube and load the brush... Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste clings with no flings...
  4. BusyLittleShop

    DSC 0644

    Shows what happens when there is no security at the gate...
  5. Origins of the Hayabusa goes back to WW2... it was a WarBird that was deadly and feared but the bike version is big engine big power big deal... a real butt plug in the bendy bits...
  6. True but owners never asked Honda to shaft drive their VFR... so I say replace the $4148 dollar 40 lb shaft drive with a $800 4 pound belt drive after all a maintenance free drive system doesn't have to cost or weight as much as it does on the 1200cc Veefalo... in fact it can be lighter than the current VFR 12 lb chain and sprocket... $800 / 4 pound belt drive system $4148.00 / 40 pound shaft system...
  7. Honda's ST replacement was the 1200 Veefalow...
  8. Negative... On a fuel injection system any air that gets past the throttle bodies the map just adds the corresponding fuel... the result is high uncontrolled idle... the fact that the problem is not continuous suggest something else... However poorly insulated spark plugs do show up under acceleration... To locate spark leaks look at the engine under the cover of darkness... first spray the engine with water then start... watch for the blue arch of a miss fire... possible culprits are 1)bad wire 2) broken spark plug insulator 3) corrosion in the spark plug cap... To disassemble the spark cap use a screw driver and note any corrosion at the resistor and spring...
  9. Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... The key to understanding a motorcycle charging system is RPMs... below 5000 and the bike consumes more than the system can replenish... above 5000 and the battery stores more than the system can use... We are in the age of the Electronic Bike... fuel delivery and spark timing and instruments and everything else operate within millionths of a volt (milli-volts) and for some reason a component doesn't receive its allotted share of volts the system starts to prioritized which components are powered and which components are cut so you can ultimately return home...
  10. I modified my stock HRC race saddle that was not only angled the rider towards the tank but was firm as a board... I laid the stock seat pan over a 3 inch block of T47 extra firm Temper Foam... I cut the basis shape using a electric carving knife... I glue the foam to the plastic pan with 3M Weather Strip or Gorilla Snot if you will... next I sculpture the foam with a air driven sander to afford a level riding position... Behold... I went from a 60 minute seat to a 12 hour seat... long distance riders know comfort and know how to get it too...
  11. Honda doesn't specify grease on the cassette for a smooth operation in the swingarm so I prefer to leave it dry...
  12. Check to see if the Axle rest at the 6 "O" clock position (Sweet Spot) which affords the greatest ride height... rotate the cassette forward and the axle rest towards the 9 "0" clock position which affords less ride height... rotate the cassette backwards and the axle rest towards to 3 "0" Clock position which affords less ride height not to mention possible slippage...
  13. True but either a Auto or MC oil will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
  14. Reduced zinc does not equal more wear... more zinc equals longer oil interval protection but that is a moot point given the short oil change intervals favored by owners... fact is in our stock engines the majority of zinc is drained away during the oil change... Quote 540Rat So, modern low zinc oils CAN BE USED SAFELY with flat tappet cam setups, even in engines with radical cams and high spring pressures. Simply choose from the higher ranked oils on the list at the end of this write-up, and you’ll be good to go. I know people who’ve been using modern low zinc oils in High Performance flat tappet set-ups for a long time, and they’ve had no issue at all. Zinc is used/sacrificed in very small quantities at time, so the total amount present in your oil does not change how much wear protection the oil provides, as long as you don’t run out of zinc. “Lab Testing” and “Wear Testing” analysis proves/confirms that more zinc provides LONGER wear protection, NOT MORE wear protection. More from Flat Tappet know it alls... 1. Well known and respected Engineer and Tech Author David Vizard, whose own test data, largely based on real world engine dyno testing, has concluded that more zinc in motor oil can be damaging, more zinc does NOT provide todays best wear protection, and that using zinc as the primary anti-wear component, is outdated technology. 2. The GM Oil Report titled, Oil Myths from GM Techlink, concluded that high levels of zinc are damaging and that more zinc does NOT provide more wear protection. 3. A motor oil research article written by Ed Hackett titled, More than you ever wanted to know about Motor Oil, concluded that more zinc does NOT provide more wear protection, it only provides longer wear protection. 4. This from the Brad Penn Oil Company: There is such a thing as too much ZDDP. ZDDP is surface aggressive, and too much can be a detriment. ZDDP fights for the surface, blocking other additive performance. Acids generated due to excessive ZDDP contact will tie-up detergents thus encouraging corrosive wear. ZDDP effectiveness plateaus, more does NOT translate into more protection. Only so much is utilized. We dont need to saturate our oil with ZDDP.
  15. Negative... either Auto or MC oil will meet and exceed your mileage expectations... There is no such thing as "for wet clutch" oil... given that motorcycles are small part of the main oil market share our motorcycle oil is chiefly reformulated Auto oil... In fact we don't find sufficient differences in additive package between Mobil 1 Auto or Mobil 1 4T MC oil... However there is a biting difference in cost... Here are virgin oil samples of $4.89 a quart Mobil 1 Auto Oil 10W40 and $9.98 a quart Mobil 4T Motorcycle specific oil... the additive packages are so similar that our wet clutch wouldn't know the difference...
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