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BusyLittleShop last won the day on August 19

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

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About BusyLittleShop

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    Have a Wheelie Nice Day
  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, VFRD Peg Lowering Blocks exclusively for VFR. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-OEM-CBR-HONDA-RACING-MOTORCYCLE-COVER-0SP34-MFJ-200/173862845357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  2. Technically speaking anyone of the 3 brands will meet and exceed your mileage expectations... Like I've stated before... I'm using auto oil SN in my homolgated race bike with a tall first gear good for 90mph... I literally incinerate my clutch in WFO launches on the street or track... I don't ride in moderation and yet no clutch slip issues due to oil... so because of low cost and high availability I pick Mobil 1 5w30 SN but any SN auto 30 grade will do... Because Mobil owns 80% of the market they offer many 5w30... I only know about one mark YES...
  3. I went with custom molded ear plugs with tiny Sony digital speakers... they cut 30db of wind noise and allow every note of the music through even at low volumes... perfect... I added a light weight Xact Sirius satellite receiver... Moozic non stop... I tested 3 sets of the custom molded ear plugs that are on the market and the ones made by Marylin Navia at Now Hear This are the most comfortable and the quietest not to mention they do not move out of place putting the skid lid on... http://plugup.com/cart/index.php And finally I interfaced Mr.RC45's Oh Shit Detector...
  4. With full choke no throttle the cold start sounds normal...
  5. Its possible this troubleshooting guide is for carbs not for Fi equipped VFR... below is from the offical Honda VFR800 manual...
  6. For the Fi system to work as designed on start up the butterflies must be 100% closed... this is because close butterflies equals sufficient vacuum... without sufficient vacuum the fuel cannot be drawn into the combustion chamber to support start up... the result is hard starting... the drill for cold or hot start is 1 100% close throttle for sufficient vacuum 2 Full choke when cold no choke when hot 3 Hit start Eliminate the possibility that the throttle body butterflies are not closing 100%... if any any air is bleeding pass the butterflies then the metered flow of the idle air can not draw sufficient fuel to support combustion... The dead give away of an air leak on a Fi engine is high uncontrolled idle... on a fuel injection system *any* air that gets past the throttle bodies the map just adds the corresponding fuel... the result is high uncontrollable idle... make sure all the rubber hoses are connected and in good shape... make sure all the intake boots are tight and in good flexible shape... if the rubbers are hard and cracked its time for replacement... Allow me to illustrate what is happening when you pull the chock lever on Honda's fuel injection system... note all you are controlling with the knob marked "choke" is the amount of air through the starter valve circuit... the more air the senors see down wind of the injectors more the map automatically increase the fuel... the result is control idle...
  7. When I lived in Japan (79 to 81) you could buy an RS850 Production Racer from HRC for 500,000.00 yen which was 240 to the dollar...
  8. Lawrence of Vee Phoria with custom bike builders Shelby and Sukhee... Monster Energy Girls Cannery Row Laguna Seca Missed me... Got me...
  9. Downloaded translated and saved... thanks Dutchy... I'd love to learn the VIN but no speak the language...
  10. For some riders tire plugs are unsafe... they would spend too much attention on the plug and not enough on where they're going and what they're are doing... it short it's a barrier for which only a new tire can solve... so even thought they find the right words to express their fear... I still respect their choice... I think we all can agree that riding is all about over coming barriers... whether psychological... (I feel like I'm going too fast) to mechanical... (my rev limiter kicked in)...
  11. I disagree... even when I "Clean, grind, clean, ream, glue, wait, glue, wait, apply, seal, trim." a inside mushroom plug... there is the problem of consistency that I can not guarantee it will stay stuck... where as the self vulcanizing rope stays stuck even if I allow the customer to install it themselves... Technically speaking the inside patch is solely dependent on a bond between a plug company's material and the tire manufacture's rubber compound... thats a crap shoot the two chemical compounds are compatible enough to hold a bond when the rubber is stationary and at room temperature... but tires are elastic bodies designed to flex from completely round to completely flat at every rotation... every rotation builds heat that works against that bond... every rotation flexes that mushroom patch from round to flat that works against that bond.... so we have heat coupled with flex working against the two competing chemical bonds from being as consistence as a self vulcanizing rope plug installed from the outside... Staying stuck and holding air is all you can ask for in a plug installed by the masses...
  12. The problem with an inside combi plug is finding a tire shop willing to take on the liability for such little profit... Steps they risk of not getting it right and being sued if it things go wrong... 1) Remove wheel from bike... 2) Remove tire from wheel... 3) Break out the power tools and prepare carcass in accordance to instructions and don't forget the special cleaner... 4). Apply glue to the reamer pushed through the hole after buffing/cleaning... 5) Insert combi plug and employ pliers to pull it through, employ pizza roller to press patch flat, trim excess... 6) Install tire on wheel and Rebalance the tire and wheel... 7)Install wheel on bike... 8)Inflate tire to proper PSI and leak check... I'm afraid liability is a real problem for it holds back many a good people from helping... consequently the task shifts back to DIY 3 step self vulcanizing rope to resurrect the tire... 1) Ream hole with tool provided in the kit... 2) Insert rope with tool provided in the kit and trim excess... 3) Inflate tire to proper PSI... 8 steps for an inside combi plug...
  13. Extract the tools from their cheezey handles and then chuck them up in your cordless drill this will give you more power to ream the hole and more power the push the plug in... stand over the puncture at the 12 O Clock position so you push down with your whole body...
  14. My best learned speculation is the CCT was installed with out first retracting the center plunger... the rubber cap was damaged as the 2 CCT bolts homed in the Tensioner to the head... you might want to inspect the CCT slipper for damage...
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