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BusyLittleShop last won the day on February 1

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

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About BusyLittleShop

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    Have a Wheelie Nice Day
  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, Peg Lowering Blocks made exclusively for VFRD. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...
  2. Its possible you boiled your brake fluid because it was contaminated with moisture and your new pads generated excessive heat... Understanding Brake fluid DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based brake fluids whereas DOT 5 are Silicone based... Glycol based fluids are designed to signal moisture contamination by changing color... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, then dark brown indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark and yukky, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... Boiling point of Glycol based brake fluids DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) DOT 5 Silicone based fluid will not turn color to signal moisture content... Boiling point of Silicone based brake fluids DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) If you wish to use the latest in Glycol base fluids then its DOT 5.1 Note: DOT 5 silicone was created at the request of the military for use in vehicles that are required to be parked for years at a time and be ready for deployment. Harley-Davidson used DOT 5 until a decade ago because it would not negatively affect paint but currently specifies DOT 4 or 5.1 WARNING: Dot 5.1 glycol (yellow) and Dot 5 silicone (purple) will not mix. Moisture Contaminated
  3. You're right... I joined Speedzilla because it was very lively... however my love for V4s clashed with the V2 crowd... do you remember their Larry poll??? How tired are you of listening to Larry's V4 rants? View Poll Results: 1)They dont bother me, I like V4s and think RC45s are super-duper 16 15.38% 2)Its getting a little old, but I still like V4 engines 34 32.69% 3) Im sick of it, and swear to only buy inline 4 powered bikes from now on 0.0% 4) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LARRY SHUT THE **** UP 54 51.92% Dezmo Excercise your right to vote. 1996900sp I"ll chime in. I have a 6th gen VFR what about that? I always thought the RC30 was the bike to have and the 45 was pretty much a pile is that wrong? Old Baldy For me, Option #3 might have been better with something like, "I'm truly sick and tired of it, but still appreciate that a V4 is a nice motor" Much as I'm tired of his almost comical rhetoric, I just can't bring myself to Option #4..............so #2 it is, for me. hawkti V-4 thumpsup twowheelcossack The never ending saga continues. Sigh. duckdawg maybe if you had two V4s... gixracer voted babyabby I have not had the so called pleasure of owning a V4 but I am intrigued by the new VMAX and just might go to the dark side!!!! roadkill #2 for me.......Larry's fanaticism does not bother me one bit. Just ignore it if it bothers you. I loooooooove my V4 BTW Gog Not too many have pride, passion and pedigree to Larry's extent. mrgrn did you know the rc30 WAS HAND ASSEMBLED BY ONE OF THREE TEAMS OF 4 MEN and they could only make 60 bikes per week. the bodywork was hand laid glass and the RC30 was solely built to win suzuka, which it did cb186 i'll vote as soon as there is an option atleast 10x stronger than #4. 1996900sp Was GINA a V4? If not she should have been the superior power would have reformed the frame while in motion. Old Baldy Originally Posted by Busy Little Shop View Post Hey Larry... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SHUT THE **** UP... hahahahhahahahhahahhahahhaha!!!! This is why I love the guy...at the same time as being so damned frustrated with his illogical biased BS. No matter what anyone says....Larry's a true motorcyclist and enthusiast. And I still want to knock his block off every now and again. Barry cheekybloke You got to respect the guy but it is all getting out of hand. roadkill No one is making you or anyone else here read it. Just my 2cents Old Fart 100% with your analogy and no ill will to Larry cheekybloke If I did that there would hardly be a thread on here to read, It's like viral advertising. Have a look any thread that has anything about an IL4 or V twin and even the one make tyre thread. mtmansl +1 (what Old Baldy said) Matthew robfromsc Originally Posted by mrgrn View Post it is certainly better than your constant retoric or your blathering on about your $20,000 super fast 600cc bike Originally Posted by cheekybloke View Post Mind it is still better than reading about the latest second rate carbonfibre tut you have spawned and are trying to push on people. robfromsc you guys need to go ahead and screw and just get it out of the way... Much better to listen to Larry and the v4 this and v4 that, than you two and your little pork hanging internet ego contest... go get laid or something ...geesh! Realmanken I love hearing what Larry has to say. Sometimes when Im bored, I'll log onto Speedzilla and actively search threads where Larry has posted so that I might enrichen my knowledge more in depth on the properties of a V-4 engine. Coincidentally, I dont have to search for very long to find a thread because Larry has a post on every sinlge thread created since he's joined. Kidding Larry! I really do love reading your posts on V-4's though. Keep em coming!! VIVA LA V-4!!!! banda Larry is the only speedzilla member on my ignore list. Unfortuantely, people still respond to him and quote his drivel, so it's hard to completely avoid his V4 ravings.
  4. First the RVF prototype then production RVF750 Mr.Honda, the consummate engineer, never waived from his dream of racing a 4 stroke designed by his employees built solely under the roof of his Japanese factory... he petitioned the ruling bodies to allow 750cc 4 strokes to compete with the 500cc 2 strokes... so under his command HRC designed the RVF750 to be 85% Gp machines for its respective period... the Old Man understood that if his plan to fill the dwindling Gp grids with his RVF works 4 stroke machines fell short he would undoubtable produce one soundly competitive WSBK machine... From 1990 on Mick Doohan and Wayne Gardner had a direct input in the development of the RVF750 works machines... If you want know what a Honda 750 4 stroke Gp racer feels like then the RC45 is for you... RC45 and the RVF Works Bike
  5. Mercy not a shame because according to HRC the RC30 engine is a modified street design hence VFR750R whereas the RC45 is a totally fresh designed hence RVF750...
  6. Start with draining and wire wheel (Dremel) the steel impeller on the water pump back to new condition... fill with 50% 50% and monitor any new rust... then go into the thermostat...
  7. Pick your color... Pro Honda HP Coolant 50/50 Premix 49% Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water Blue dye Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Belray MotoChill pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Prestone Xtreme Sport Prediluted Motorcycle Coolant Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water with red dye Dexcool 50% Propylene Glycol and demineralized water with orange dye... I don't recommend Water Wetter for the street because in 6 months the steel impeller on the customer water pump begins to show rust... I only recommend it for track use and when you return to street drain the Wetter and go back to normal coolant with rust inhibitors...
  8. My friend Makota San was a previous Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... however for some owners VTEC = Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... Makota San also worked on the NR500 oval piston racer and he plans to visit the Busy Little Shop some day because I have 2 cylinder blocks off the NR500 that I packed out of Japan in 1981... Makota San down on cannery row...
  9. I forget to mention the option of laying the bike on its side for clutch maintenance... simply lay the bike at an angle to shift the oil level at an angle to remove the clutch cover without spillage...
  10. On the master cylinder back the 3 bolts a few turns to see if your no play suspicions are the problem... you can even test hop it but be prepare for major clutch drag during shifting... If the Clutch is slipping I offer a way to save $240.00 in new clutch parts by investing in some sweat equity... deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... no sir... back in the 70s it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all change during the 90s... why fix what you can buy new is the what you hear now a days... but if your interested in making your clutch bite good as new then roll up your sleeves and read on... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... check the manual for clutch thickness range... First removed the contaminants with something like Acetone... then lay each plate over a 600 grit black dry emory paper and rotate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... the manual does not state a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with something like Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... All in all there are no reports of a new clutch slipping no matter what oil the owner selected... but around the 25K to 35K mile mark your clutch maybe glazed enough that oil choice affects their performance... deglazing brings back the plates to the new condition were the oil doesn't matter again... it's your choice...
  11. I've sat in the saddle of Dan Kyle's HRC kitted VFR and what a difference 10 years make... the rest of the story as told by Dan... As it happened, Dan's buddy had just taken delivery of a brand new 1984 VR750 Interceptor. The boys figured they'd go partners building a hot Interceptor race bike. Dan would set-up and tune the thing, and his buddy would bankroll the deal, ending up with a sexy streetbike when all was said and done. Another buddy, and former Team Honda rider Jeff Haney, would ride it. Dan promptly hit-up Getl and Schuster for help. 'You want parts for your race bike? Sure, kid.' For $8400 bucks, Dan scored a race kit front end, exhaust pipes, radiator, and a complete HRC Superbike race motor. Once completed, they ran the bike in several 1984 AMA Superbike events. By 1985, the bike was well sorted out and they ran it again in the Daytona 200 and finished third. Outstanding.
  12. I sold my RC30 in 2010... It was a quick affair starting on Cannery Row during MotoGp when I bump into super fabricator Phil of MotoMorphic... I mentioned my RC30 purchased off Ebay needs a new home and he mentions his friend Paul who is still lusting for an RC30 ever since sitting on one back in 1990... I learn Paul lives near the great bendy bits of NorCal namely the infamous Race Way 9 and hangs out at Alices two prefect places for an iconic V4 from the Golden Years of WSBK... We dickered one time on the price as I removed the bottom cowl for his inspection... My terms were that after the Bank of Mary verified his 15K cashiers check he was GO for limited test hop just around our block due to the risk of no insurance!!! Paul rolls into the Busy Little Shop pointing to his ass... "RC30 bug has bitten"
  13. You should be able to vise grip the collar and turn the axle to break it loose... however this action will mess up the finish on the collar... you might have to remove whole swingarm and set the wheel on a press to safely remove the axle because you're working against the possibility of 3 frozen bearing...
  14. Mercy... I'd shave my legs if I thought it would lower my bikes weight and here someone adds 3 lbs for just looks... Mr.Honda would not approve...
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