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BusyLittleShop

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Everything posted by BusyLittleShop

  1. Negative... Our understanding of oil is not growing if we still warn against EC oil... because Energy Conserving is not additive... its an API test that this "oil MAY result is an overall saving of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole"... there is nothing in the oil to defeat a wet clutch in good working order... My RC45 has over 57K miles and those are miles not in moderation either... its a homologated race bike with a first gear good for 90mph... since 98 I've been running Mobil 1 5w30 Energy Conserving oil 365 days a year... with no clutch slippage due to oil...
  2. Addition to all the swell advice I'll ante up my RC45 notes... Honda's race bred V4 employs a manual idle adjustment and a manual "CHOKE" instead of the automatic wax... For the system to work as designed on start up the butterflies must be 100% closed... this is because close butterflies equals sufficient vacuum... without sufficient vacuum the fuel cannot be drawn into the combustion chamber to support start up... the result is hard starting... the drill for cold or hot start is 1 100% close throttle for sufficient vacuum 2 Full choke when cold no choke when hot 3 Hit start. The dead give away of an air leak on a Fi engine is high uncontrolled idle... on a fuel injection system *any* air that gets past the throttle bodies the map just adds the corresponding fuel... the result is high uncontrollable idle... make sure all the rubber hoses are connected and in good shape... make sure all the intake boots are tight and in good flexible shape... if the rubbers are hard and cracked its time for replacement...
  3. Hiya Brent... a later apex will position you and your prize towards the middle of the lane...
  4. To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...
  5. I got to know Steve and his wife Cyrcee at our local Sacramento motorcycling gathering... they are true lovers of the sport... Cyrcee gave me permission to post her magazine shot...
  6. What you describe maybe normal clutch knock at idle... you see over time slop develops allowing the gear teeth to knock about and thus the noise... grab the clutch lever and the inner basket helps align the outer basket and the noise deadens... the only cure is to eliminate the slop with new clutch parts... namely replace the clutch guide p/n 22116-MCW-000 and clutch bearing p/n 91024-MB0-003...
  7. Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Lithium batteries requirements require a different routine than lead acid... understanding the charger operation is key to success... 14.340 100% 13.300 90% 13.270 80% 13.160 70% 13.130 60% 13.116 50% 13.104 40% 12.996 30% 12.866 20% 12.730 10% 9.200 0%
  8. If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...
  9. After 50 years dealing with riding and racing customers who complained about shift quality the clutch and not oil fixed the problem... Manufactures warn owners that our gears can't shift smoothly if our clutch is part way engaged... check for unwanted clutch drag... Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not... if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust... To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system for bubbles... You may visually check for clutch plate travel by opening the oil filler and pear inside and note what degree the plates follow the actuation of the lever... Keeping working on it until you note a quick and abundant spread... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... A tip on shift TECHNIQUE... I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot quick... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early form of seem less shifting... Shifting an constant mesh motorcycle gear box is a learned skill and some riders with racing experience can up shift and down shift so smoothly so seamless that the passenger along for the ride can not feel or count them all... Quote Jim, Mobil Help Desk Team Lead Larry, Thanks for writing to us. While good oil (and bad oil) can have an impact on smooth engagement and disengagement of gearsets, I don't know that I've seen anyone conduct a study of the phenomenon. I don't know about you, but my big toe is not a finely calibrated scientific instrument. There's definitely room for a bit of placebo effect, anytime we make a change that we "expect" to impact performance in one way or another. It would be interesting to see someone come up with a test rig for it. Thank you for choosing Mobil, Jim A new FZ8 customer was experiencing notchy shifting on factory fill Yama Lube... like you he wasn't sure if the oil was the problem... So we called Yamaha customer relations and got an official technician on the line and asked if there was a difference in shifting quality between the recommended 30 or 40 weight oil??? the response was a reassuring "no" an owner will not experience "poor shifting" between the viscosity grades...
  10. Peg Blocks are specially designed using billet 6061 T6 aluminum for the VFR800 years (5th Gen 98 to 01) and (6th Gen 02 on 09) and (8th Gen 14 on up)... they will effectively lower Honda's foot peg 1.5 inches (38mm) from the stock position... Rob's INSTALLATION GUIDE http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php/topic/34097-bls-footpeg-block-install/ What you see is what you get... http://i.imgur.com/sPJsxTE.jpg Peg Block Instructions Print Out http://i.imgur.com/Uxg1J6I.jpg PEG BLOCKS are available to keep your knees in the breeze... the price + USPS flat rate priority shipping are as follows... as soon as I receive Pay Pal payment the shipping starts... my account netters2@comcast.net USA Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $9.45 = $94.45 Canada Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $29.55 = $114.55 Europe Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $38.60 = $123.60 Australia or Denmark $85.00 + Priority Shipping $39.60 = $124.60
  11. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch...
  12. Technically speaking No... Are oils are graded by gravity flow, formally called Kinematic Viscosity (KV) in accordance to ASTM D-445... its important to note that this test is not a measurement of an oils thickness nor an oils weight... its a measurement of time required for a fixed volume of oil at a constant temp to flow under the force of mean old Mr.Gravity... The rate of flow is expressed in Centistokes (cST)... the lower the cST number the quicker the flow which means quicker revs and more power and there is no difference in longevity between grades...
  13. Leaky valve guide seals will generate Smoke during start up and downshifting and it is not normal... As you roll off the throttle and decelerate the vacuum in your intake manifold is at the highest point... any Oil that seeps pass the valve stem seals will travel into the intake manifold and then burn in the cylinder producing smoke... Pear into thee intake and note a build up of burnt oil on the valve... new valve guide seals will cure the problem...
  14. True... Another way to prop up your prize for maintenance is a stool of correct height...
  15. When it comes to choosing a coolant just pick the color dye you prefer as they are all about the same amount of glycol and de-ionzed water... Pro Honda HP Coolant 50/50 Premix 49% Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water Green dye Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Belray MotoChill pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Prestone Xtreme Sport Prediluted Motorcycle Coolant Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water with red dye Dexcool 50% Propylene Glycol and demineralized water with orange dye... I don't recommend Water Wetter for the street because in 6 months the steel impeller on the Honda water pump begins to show rust... I only recommend it for track use and when you return to street drain the Wetter and go back to normal coolant with rust inhibitors... Troubleshooting High Temps If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is also a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch...
  16. More troubleshoot is in order before you buy any more parts... the noise in time with the crankshaft... possible source of crankshaft speed noises are a scuffed piston and stuck piston ring... damaged rod bearings... To help pin point the exact location of the noise hold a long tip screw driver or a length of garden hose up to your ear and probe the suspected area... A skuffed piston will bind the ring from expanding in the bore resulting in low compression and a rattle noise... To pin point which cylinder might have a skuffed piston take a compression test... focus on the weak one... To check for a bad rod bearing set the engine at high idle and remove one spark plug wire at a time... if the noise stops then that's the cylinder with the bad rod... if noise continues after both spark plug wires were removed then the noise is something other than a rod knock because a rod will not produce a knock by just turning over the piston... it takes the spark of combustion to produce a sharp metallic sound...
  17. Ron Ayers diagram... https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f59af870021c54be7ae2/clutch[/img]
  18. Its a simple fix designed to get your knees back in the breeze in a timely manner...
  19. I've employed the same method with great success... Ball bearings only hold so much grease... excess grease will push beyond the seal... this push feature is why I first spin the bearing to collect the excess grease before installing the seal...
  20. Under what principal of physics???
  21. A full brake service includes : 1)new pads 2)caliper piston cleaning and lube 3)removing old disc groves 4)new fluid 5)bleed To erase unwanted grooves in either stainless steal or cast iron rotors first remove the buttons... then chuck and spin in a Lathe... work a 180 grit sanding disc against the surface evenly until the groves are gone...
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