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Everything posted by BusyLittleShop

  1. Going by part numbers 91 VFR 750 and 98 VFR800 employ the same friction disc... VFR750/800 clutch friction thickness p/n 22201-MS6-620 2.92mm - 3.08mm (0.115 - 0.121) service limit 2.5 (0.10)
  2. Gone in 91 but never forgotten Happy Birthday... I live in Japan 79 to 81 courtesy of the USAF... I was wearing my Mugen Tee shirt while spectating at Mt Fuji racetrack... Hirotoshi Honda #1 son of Soichiro Honda and president of Mugen walked up and introduced himself... Together we traveled back to Tokyo on the Shinkansen... I summed up my life long love and admiration for his Dad by saying "cut my wrist and it will bleed Honda red"... Hirotoshi was so taken that he asked his Dad for a meeting but the answer was "Gomen nasai" (I'm sorry) health issues... Gone in
  3. Negative Danno... if you ever get lucky enough to test hop Mr.Honda's race bred V4 it will re calibrate the seat of your pants with its bottom end plod, midrange drive and top end rush... Quote Fast Bikes "In view of the modest stock HP claims, we didn't expect particularly startling grunt from the engine as most of the manufactures have been claiming 125BHP as a matter of course for their 750 replica superbikes. Quite unexpectedly, the RC45 forced us to think again; it's HP combined with formidable torque in the middle gears and the extraordinarily clean and rapid
  4. My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... Makota San also worked on the NR500 oval piston racer and he plans to visit the Busy Little Shop some day because I have 2 cylinder blocks off the NR500 that I packed out of Japan in 1981... Makota San down on cannery row... In my opinion VTEC stands for Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... it worked on heavy cars but it proved to be too radic
  5. Post a photo of the critical pin and roller junction and you'll see that your chain was pretty on the outside and wearing metal to metal on the inside...
  6. Chains do get that hot and heat affects the longevity of the factory installed grease...
  7. I mainly employ gas because its handy... I've used K but its goes bad and stinks... If there is one chemical our chains can handle its good old gas... petroleum products have no lasting effect on the X W or O rings because instead of rubber chain manufactures today actually use a highly fluorinated fluoroelastomer known commercially as Viton or Kalrez... very tough stuff... It has a excellent resistance to most chemicals including sulfur... sulfur chloride... sulfur dioxide... sulfur hexaflouride to name a few... most important it doesn't need protection from drying o
  8. True but consider this... chain manufactures are advised riveted by their liability lawyers not by their engineers... speaking as a engineer I believe clipped ML on a X ring chain are safe... that is because X ring links are pressed on... but the one step home mechanics miss doing is side loading the clip once it is homed in the groove... this step insures it will stay put... I've witnessed many customers O or X ring chains missing their clips... they have no idea just how many thousands upon thousands of miles covered in this unsafe condition... but if a clip is tossed on a no
  9. Chains are pain to maintain... only a belt spells relief... I've removed my X ring chain and thoroughly cleaned in an gas bath... But lubing an X ring chain in an oil bath was not successful because What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste and will only fling off... If you wish to lube the critical pin and roller junction just cut and remove all the X rings...
  10. Mileage is a loose standard because wear depends on so many variables... A more accurate standard of chain wear is after the 3rd adjustment because that is undeniable evidence that the factory installed grease is beginning to fail to lube the critical pin roller junction hidden behind the X ring... the length of the chain is growing because of this metal to metal wear... I can not call a chain serviceable that is grinding metal... it's like saying that a dry bearing that runs ruff is acceptable... the net result is another 2 to 3% drop in RWHP as more energy is lost grinding m
  11. Hiya Skids Helpful facts to ponder... auto oilers lube only the external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... they do not lube the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is wasted fling off... The running oil leak lowers the operating temp where the factory installed grease has a chance to live longer before the first adjustment... but the fact remains adjustment is taking up the slack cause by metal to metal wear at the critical pin and roller junction because the factory installed grease is beginning to fai
  12. The gas companies pitch that the higher the octane the better it burns The rule is don't buy more octane than you need. Octane is one formula in the alkane series of hydrocarbons. Made up of 8 carbon atoms singled bonded together with 18 hydrogen atoms connected. Although octane is a simple organic compound, it was some what expensive to Crack and supply in large quantities. so todays gas has no real octane. What we use is an octane rating system. The properties of this formula is that it burns slow when ignited; therefore it does not detonate or knock during heavy loading o
  13. Are we talking about BST 5 spoke carbon??? Stock RC45 cast aluminum..............................16x3.5 F 9.0 lbs 17x6 R 11.7 lbs 17" Marchesini 3 spoke cast magnesium 17x3.5 F 6.0 lbs 17x6 R 8.5 lbs Weight savings...................................................................F 3.0 lbs............. R 3.2 lb
  14. Mercy Honda listen to your own engineers... they want more V and less RRR!!! 2020 CycleWorld Kevin Cameron HRC We asked Kuwata why Honda's MotoGP bike has V-4 power yet the new Fireblade is an inline? "This question is the most difficult!" Kuwata said, with a laugh. "Because the market is smaller [for big sportbikes] , it is very difficult to make two types of bikes in one category. We had V-4 [VFR superbikes] in the past, but for myself, I would like to have both. Many reasons for not having both-it's not a technical decision but a business one.
  15. Whether you employ ball or taper bearings the first sign that your steering head bearings are loose will be felt through the bars as a pronounce clunk during hard braking... Then again if your steering head bearings are too tight the bike will weave and not seek it own center... To achieve perfect torque first raise the front wheel off the ground... next tighten the steering head bearings until the bars lock... and finally back off the nut until the bars free wheel with a slight drag... with this method you find that sweat spot and avoid over tightening an
  16. Mike... Mr.RC45's 6" Marchesini is shod with a 180/55... the difference is illustrate in the drawing...
  17. Study my photo... see the rust??? that is the point where the inner flange is stuck on the axle... once this point is free the axle will pop right out... I'd heat the flange until spit sizzles and whacked it like you mean it with a 5 lb hammer... first make sure the rear caliper is removed...
  18. I know exactly where you're stuck... I employ a 5 lb sledge hammer to great success...
  19. Your removal would be much easier after a long ride when all the parts are at operating temps... Your axle is probably frozen at the wheel bearings due to corrosion from either rain riding or washing your bike with a garden hose... if the rubber hammer fails then you need more force like a large steel hammer... to protect the axle and threads source a hard wood block or plastic... installed the nut backwards so the flange faces you... strike the wood / plastic against the nut... the force to budge the axle maybe extreme so be prepared for the bike to move about... also be pr
  20. I think Honda should rebadge the shaft 1200 Veefalo as the next 1200 ST and then go back to the drawing board and engineer a 1000cc light weight V4 with a gear driven cams... maintenance free belt drive... flip forks and radial calipers...
  21. Motorcycle horns in good working order have a distinctive sound all there own... when people here that little beep beep... they have been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace the beep beep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what??? confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into their heads in a panic situation... Like when you hear beep beep you think Road Runner... not Wiley E
  22. I installed a Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg instead of the uniquely RC45 high dollar Rec/Reg... this was after I went through 2 stock R/Rs at $227 each and 1 $300 stator and still I suffered the problem of low volts to the point where the engine would hesitate and quit... only after I give up on Honda's stuff and tried Yamaha's stuff did I have the joy of finishing my ride...
  23. Really hot is a wildly subjective term on the human scale... it would help if we had some C or F numbers to judge by...
  24. I'd replace the shift cover gasket item 6 p/n 11632-MY7-000
  25. You're welcome... keep those knees in the breeze...
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