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BusyLittleShop

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Everything posted by BusyLittleShop

  1. Motorcycle horns... in good working order... have a distinctive sound all there own... when people here that little beeep eep... they have been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace the beeep eep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what??? confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into their heads in a panic situation... You're safest with meep meep... I talked to BMW rider who mounted air horns pirated from Southern Pacific Diesel Locomotive... They sounded great but he was having second thoughts... it seems cagers were running into his bike in a panic trying to get away from the train they could not see... We know that cagers are unpredictable and that blasting them with 125db non standard motorcycle horn is enough to send their thought process into over load... that's a destabilizing act of our own creation... Nathom Air Chimes off a Locomotive...
  2. Springs are not the source of clutch knock at idle rather over time slop develops allowing the gear teeth to knock about and thus the noise... grab the clutch lever and the inner basket helps align the outer basket and the noise deadens... the only cure is to eliminate the slop with new clutch parts... namely replace the clutch guide p/n 22116-MB0-000 and clutch bearing 91024-MB0-003
  3. You may have corrosion where penetrating oil can not reach... I'd take it to a shop that will use a air driven impact tool to remove the Auto nuts...
  4. I echo your Holiday thoughts... Miguel is the man that brings us all together... without him there would be no VFRD... no place to multiply our VFR pleasure and divide our grief... so get your NOG on and party!!! Greetings from the Laguna Seca Cork Screw
  5. Greetings... I'm also Italian here in California USA... my folks migrated from Piedmont region... ciao...
  6. Out on the highway late at night... inky blackness is stealing your sight... you got halogen head lights and they ain't bright... your motorcycling by pale moon light.... On Mr.RC45 I replaced my PIAA 60/55 watt Xenon gas Super White bulbs that glow in the 4200 Kelvin range with Speed Metal's 25 watt Cree LED H4 with a working high and low beam... now I'm riding so bright I have to wear shades... I paid $69 each at Cycle Gear for the Speedmetal LED kit... http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Conversion-Kit
  7. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is also an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)
  8. Sad to learn Laguna Seca is off the schedule... here is some insight to what is going on... https://racer.com/2019/11/19/insight-monterey-county-sham/
  9. Mercy for StromShadow and his Flambeau VFR... however I've seen this problem before... Fire can happen when corrosion builds up over time between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire... Everyone should perform a one time inspection of their QD and take appropriate action like replace the QD or just solder the wires together... As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ... Story goes that Bob and Pam Solloway of Coventry UK... a couple of RC freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flambeau... First call was to check the alternator quick disconnect at the transformer rectifier... I was positive that the QD had suffered enough resistance to heat and melt the insulation on the wires... the wires got enough to start a fire which all most consumed her prize... As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my bike into a crispy critter... Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation... Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem... My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires directly and seal with heat shrink tubing... I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire... Mr.RC45 dark but 100% functional stator... engine oil causes the insulation to darken... notice the part of the insulation that doesn’t rest in the oil is unchanged... so don't toss your stator just because its dark... test it to determine serviceability...
  10. The days of the old heavy lead acid battery are number... smart money is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery like Shorai... not only is it 5lbs lighter but doesn't require trickle charging and will not sulfate... I also recommend Shorai's balance charger because it as two modes one for storage and one for charging... http://www.shoraipower.com Lithium batteries require a different routine than lead acid... understanding the chargers operation is key to success... At the end of your ride connect the Shoria charger... Push don't hold buttons... push either STORE or CHARGE button once and wake up confirmation is signaled by 1 beep... either push button STORE or CHARGE once and activation is signaled by 3 beeps... Selecting CHARGE will bring the battery to 14.4V... but if your bikes charging system raised the battery higher than 14.4V nothing will happen... CHARGE mode does not maintain 14.4V... Leavening the battery on CHARGE will lead to discharge... Select STORE mode and the charger will maintain/float the battery at approximately 13.3V... that means no charge begins until volts drop from the high of 14.4V down to 13.3 V... Your battery will rest on STORE mode for as long as power is supplied to the charger... But when you are ready to ride push CHARGE to cancel the STORE mode. Press the CHARGE button momentarily and listen for the triple beep. The Green light will then begin to flash. It may take up to 30 minutes for the battery to reach full capacity, approximately 14.4V. It will change to a solid green once it reaches full capacity... now you're ready to start your ride with a 100% full capacity batt... if you begin your ride off STORE mode the battery is only at 13.3V which is 90% capacity... 14.340 100% 13.300 90% 13.270 80% 13.160 70% 13.130 60% 13.116 50% 13.104 40% 12.996 30% 12.866 20% 12.730 10% 9.200 0%
  11. DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based fluids designed to signal moisture contamination by changing color... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, then dark brown indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark and yukky, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... Honda's RC45 employs the same master cylinder as VFR... Moisture Contaminated
  12. You're welcome Bailey... I'm glad you're keeping the knees in the breeze... cheers...
  13. Congratulations on your zero mile prize... the risk for an engine that have been at rest for years is dry bearings at the rod and crank journals along with the plain cam bearings... to insure against any metal to metal contact at these critical junctions I would first spin the oil pump independently of the starter which will distribute oil from the sump and to crankshaft, rod and cam the journals... simply lay the bike at an angle to shift the oil level at an angle to remove the clutch cover without spillage... next remove the bolt on the crank followed by removing the starter clutch and finally the crankshaft gear... now you are free to rotate the clutch basket (counterclock wise) by hand and wait for the pump to build pressure... once oil is dripping back into the pan you're ready to assemble and start as if you just shut down the engine...
  14. We can share our takes thanks to the net and VFRD... The holy trinity of science is 1)Reason 2)Observation 3)Experience... employing those tools we observe that the primary cause clutch slip are high mileage... mileage is the constant among all of the clutches that begin to slip... oil is not a constant... we can't established a constant when one owner swears so and so oil caused my clutch slip whereas an other owner equally swears so and so oil never made my clutch slip... but under close visual scrutiny we see that both clutches began to slip due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over mileage... mileage has always been the constant and never the brand or type of oil...
  15. We don't hear it because no one complains about clutch slip on a new bike... but on about the 27K to 57K range is when containments may build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle like at a track day... If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... no sir... back in the 70s it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all change during the 90s... why fix what you can buy new is the what you hear now a days... but if your interested in making your clutch bite good as new then roll up your sleeves and read on... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...
  16. MA and JASO are extra cost oil can labels so its serves no benefit for Mobil to label their SN Auto oil like they do their 4T... but that omission is not proof it will not pass MA or JASO... savoy owners understand that clutch slip is product of mileage not whether their oil can label states MA or JASO... I think MA and JASO would do us a greater favor if they tested every oil under the sun and list not only a pass but also fails...
  17. All wet clutches will reach a high mileage point in their life and loose grip no matter what the oil... Some of my customers will spend $1,500 for an exhaust on the promise of 2 extra HP only to drop 4HP in unnecessary oil drag... so instead gaining 6HP they gained 2HP
  18. Friction modifiers additives are only a small percent of the total oil product and help the base oil do things that it otherwise could not... Additives fall into several basic categories but Moly, Phosphors and Zinc are the most often used friction modifiers... what ever small percent of FM employed they will not defeat a wet clutch in good working order...
  19. There is mounting evidence that NO matter what brand (Amsoil or Mobil)... NO matter what grade (30 40 50)... NO matter syn or min... owners are meeting and exceeding their mileage expectations... The only difference is how much HP are you wasting in unnecessary oil drag??? Between a 30 and 50 is about 4HP...
  20. Honda recommends their own brand 4 stroke oil or equivalent... API service SF,SG or Higher... so that means SN auto oils qualify because the service is higher and the oil is equivalent... Compare virgin samples...
  21. I love a good oil thread... a good thread will challenges your technical knowledge and long held beliefs plus you may actually learn something new...
  22. I've used Amsoil oil too but not after I heard a Amsoil rep state in this video that Mobil 1 is the base oil to all their synthetics that means 90% of Amsoil is Mobil 1... too fact check this claim I submitted a virgin oil sample to Blackstone labs... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_iN_IJpSIU Here are virgin oil samples of $12.95 a quart Amsoil motorcycle specific 10W30 and $4.89 a quart Mobil 1 Auto Oil 5W30... listed in parts per million are minor differences in the additive package you're paying for...
  23. Used bikes are full of unknowns so your best friend is an offical Honda shop manual and follow the proper testing of the rec reg...
  24. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-OEM-CBR-HONDA-RACING-MOTORCYCLE-COVER-0SP34-MFJ-200/173862845357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  25. Technically speaking anyone of the 3 brands will meet and exceed your mileage expectations... Like I've stated before... I'm using auto oil SN in my homolgated race bike with a tall first gear good for 90mph... I literally incinerate my clutch in WFO launches on the street or track... I don't ride in moderation and yet no clutch slip issues due to oil... so because of low cost and high availability I pick Mobil 1 5w30 SN but any SN auto 30 grade will do... Because Mobil owns 80% of the market they offer many 5w30... I only know about one mark YES...
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