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BusyLittleShop

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Everything posted by BusyLittleShop

  1. To troubleshoot an internal noise the first step is to establish the rate at which it occurs... is the noise in time with the camshaft or crankshaft??? camshafts rotate 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft... possible source of camshaft speed noises are shim and bucket clearances... loose cam bearing blocks... broken valve springs... possible source of crankshaft speed noises are a scuffed piston... stuck piston ring... rod bearings... To pin point the exact location of the noise hold a long tip screw driver or a length of garden hose up to your ear and probe the suspected area...
  2. It goes without saying add fresh oil and filter but then activate the kill switch and then hit the starter until the red low oil pressure light extinguishes... this will ensure fresh oil flows between the crankshaft and journals... this action is prudent in order to prevent any metal to metal wear on start up... because after 4 years the risk is that the oil separating these critical parts is inadequate...
  3. On 8/29/2020 at 4:57 PM, Grum said: A blocked breather on these bikes can mean not being able to open the fuel cap, AND enough vacuum can build up to severely deform and damage the tank. Like Grum said: Make sure the tank vent is clear and remains open or the fuel pump will create enough vacuum to collapse the tank... I've witnessed a Honda tank collapse because the dealer installed a California tank on a 49 state bike and the cap wasn't vented like this Ducati example...
  4. Always begin with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... The key to understanding a motorcycle charging system is RPMs... below 5000 and the bike consumes more than the system can replenish... above 5000 and the battery stores more than the system can use... We are in the age of the Electronic Bike... fuel delivery and spark timing and instruments and everything else operate within millionths of a volt (milli-volts) and for some reason a component doesn't receive its allotted share of volts the system starts to prioritized which components are powered and which components are cut so you can ultimately return home...
  5. The main difference between a 180/55 and a 190/50 is profile and diameter... the 180 is bigger in diameter and sharper in profile... the change in geometry is as follows... going from a 190 to a 180 means rake is steepen and trail is shorten which lowers the steering effort... whereas going from a 180 to a 190 means rake is extended and trail is added which adds to the steering effort... Diameter... 190/50/17=24.480 621mm 180/55/17=24.795 629mm
  6. I agree... the sure sign you hit raw aluminum is black on your polishing cloth...
  7. If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest in some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... no sir... back in the 70s it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all change during the 90s... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...
  8. As a Honda lover with 55 years worth of experience here are my best picks... 1958 50cc Cub...ridden 1969 CB750 .......ridden 1981 CR250R ...owned 1983 VF750 ......ridden 1984 VF500 .....owned 1988 RC30 .......owned 1991 NR750 1994 RC45 ......owned 1999 RC51 ......ridden 2013 RC213VS
  9. If you want to replicate the RC45 direct race feel between your right wrist and the contact patch then scrap the silly cushdrive... Both the RC30 and RC45 are direct drives...
  10. Rossi has seen a lot in his career but nothing like what happened in turn 3 Austria Gp... first Morbidelli's Yamaha the Zarco's Ducati almost hit him... The view on board Rossi's Yamaha...
  11. I've been using Lithium Iron batteries since 2009... First was the (SpeedCell) since sold to a customer... currently Mr.RC45 is powered by a Shoria... I think days of the old heavy lead acid battery are number... smart money is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery...
  12. Nothing wrong with Honda except the CEO in control... he is the account that closes his wallet with a torque wrench towards any new race bred V4...
  13. Thanks Dangeruss... I'm happy you're happy... I hope customs didn't charge a fee???
  14. Fact 1... Tires are elastic bodies and cannot be produced absolutely round without imbalance. Therefore balance is paramount after fitting a new tire... Fact 2... Dynamic balancing is the preferred method because the wheel is rotating and measures the deviation of masses with respect to center... How much weight is too much??? if you employ more than 3.5 ounces of lead weight which is 14 1/4 stick on lead weights to the tire it can be judged defective in manufacturing and you may request a refund or replacement... contact the seller and state your gripe...
  15. Most major oil companies say to NEVER EVER add anything to their oils, because doing so will upset the oil’s carefully balanced additive package that was designed by their Chemical Engineers... I generally recommend that people choose a motor oil that is highly ranked to begin with, that doesn’t need any additional help. And to use that oil just as it comes, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives at all...
  16. The majority of auto oils meet or exceed Honda's oil specs mentioned in the manual... the offical oil of VFRD is still 5w30 M1 Auto...
  17. There is no moly in Liqui-Moly... the proof is in the virgin oil sample... its a mechanical not an oil problem...
  18. To visually check for clutch plate travel open the oil filler and pear inside and note what degree the plates follow the actuation of the lever... Keeping working on it until you note a quick and abundant spread... Here are the steps how to check for unwanted clutch drag with the engine running... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not... if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... .
  19. Honda's great V2 experiment... but times have changed... V2s are no longer a part of any manufactures racing plans... the old work horse has been retired...
  20. Honda produced enough RC213 to homologate but the CEO of Honda didn't follow up with the paper work... much to the disappointment of HRC engineers... 2020 CycleWorld Kevin Cameron HRC We asked Kuwata why Honda's MotoGP bike has V-4 power yet the new Fireblade is an inline? "This question is the most difficult!" Kuwata said, with a laugh. "Because the market is smaller [for big sportbikes] , it is very difficult to make two types of bikes in one category. We had V-4 RVF superbikes in the past, but for myself, I would like to have both. Many reasons for not having both-it's not a technical decision but a business one. Best to ask the sales department!"
  21. Cut my wrist and it will bleed Honda red but HRC engineers have run out of Rs they need a V... Honda's pedestrian I4 street bike labors in the shadow of MotoGp technology as their MotoGp race bred V4 sits on the side lines... Throw me in coach, I'm ready to go... [youtube] [/youtube]
  22. Dowco is good but I think Honda's cover is better... $107 https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-OEM-2004-18-CBR600-CBR1000-RACING-MOTORCYCLE-COVER-0SP34-MFJ-200/173862845357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  23. High mileage is the constant where all clutches begin to loose grip due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over use... If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all change... why fix what you can buy new is the what you hear now a days... but if your interested in making your clutch bite good as new then roll up your sleeves and read on... Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/monthly_2020_06/PressurePlates2.jpg.4d1e496dbcbcbb383730a9ab807432c9.jpg Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...
  24. Weakest link in the whole electrical system is the battery... Smart money is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery like Shorai or Anti Gravity...
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