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BusyLittleShop

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Everything posted by BusyLittleShop

  1. After 50 years dealing with riding and racing customers who complained about shift quality the clutch and not oil fixed the problem... Manufactures warn owners that our gears can't shift smoothly if our clutch is part way engaged... check for unwanted clutch drag... Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not... if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust... To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system for bubbles... You may visually check for clutch plate travel by opening the oil filler and pear inside and note what degree the plates follow the actuation of the lever... Keeping working on it until you note a quick and abundant spread... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... A tip on shift TECHNIQUE... I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot quick... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early form of seem less shifting... Shifting an constant mesh motorcycle gear box is a learned skill and some riders with racing experience can up shift and down shift so smoothly so seamless that the passenger along for the ride can not feel or count them all... Quote Jim, Mobil Help Desk Team Lead Larry, Thanks for writing to us. While good oil (and bad oil) can have an impact on smooth engagement and disengagement of gearsets, I don't know that I've seen anyone conduct a study of the phenomenon. I don't know about you, but my big toe is not a finely calibrated scientific instrument. There's definitely room for a bit of placebo effect, anytime we make a change that we "expect" to impact performance in one way or another. It would be interesting to see someone come up with a test rig for it. Thank you for choosing Mobil, Jim A new FZ8 customer was experiencing notchy shifting on factory fill Yama Lube... like you he wasn't sure if the oil was the problem... So we called Yamaha customer relations and got an official technician on the line and asked if there was a difference in shifting quality between the recommended 30 or 40 weight oil??? the response was a reassuring "no" an owner will not experience "poor shifting" between the viscosity grades...
  2. Peg Blocks are specially designed using billet 6061 T6 aluminum for the VFR800 years (5th Gen 98 to 01) and (6th Gen 02 on 09) and (8th Gen 14 on up)... they will effectively lower Honda's foot peg 1.5 inches (38mm) from the stock position... Rob's INSTALLATION GUIDE http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php/topic/34097-bls-footpeg-block-install/ What you see is what you get... http://i.imgur.com/sPJsxTE.jpg Peg Block Instructions Print Out http://i.imgur.com/Uxg1J6I.jpg PEG BLOCKS are available to keep your knees in the breeze... the price + USPS flat rate priority shipping are as follows... as soon as I receive Pay Pal payment the shipping starts... my account netters2@comcast.net USA Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $9.45 = $94.45 Canada Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $29.55 = $114.55 Europe Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $38.60 = $123.60 Australia or Denmark $85.00 + Priority Shipping $39.60 = $124.60
  3. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch...
  4. Technically speaking No... Are oils are graded by gravity flow, formally called Kinematic Viscosity (KV) in accordance to ASTM D-445... its important to note that this test is not a measurement of an oils thickness nor an oils weight... its a measurement of time required for a fixed volume of oil at a constant temp to flow under the force of mean old Mr.Gravity... The rate of flow is expressed in Centistokes (cST)... the lower the cST number the quicker the flow which means quicker revs and more power and there is no difference in longevity between grades...
  5. Leaky valve guide seals will generate Smoke during start up and downshifting and it is not normal... As you roll off the throttle and decelerate the vacuum in your intake manifold is at the highest point... any Oil that seeps pass the valve stem seals will travel into the intake manifold and then burn in the cylinder producing smoke... Pear into thee intake and note a build up of burnt oil on the valve... new valve guide seals will cure the problem...
  6. True... Another way to prop up your prize for maintenance is a stool of correct height...
  7. When it comes to choosing a coolant just pick the color dye you prefer as they are all about the same amount of glycol and de-ionzed water... Pro Honda HP Coolant 50/50 Premix 49% Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water Green dye Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Belray MotoChill pre-mixed Propylene Glycol with de-ionized water with blue dye Prestone Xtreme Sport Prediluted Motorcycle Coolant Propylene Glycol 50% demineralized water with red dye Dexcool 50% Propylene Glycol and demineralized water with orange dye... I don't recommend Water Wetter for the street because in 6 months the steel impeller on the Honda water pump begins to show rust... I only recommend it for track use and when you return to street drain the Wetter and go back to normal coolant with rust inhibitors... Troubleshooting High Temps If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is also a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch...
  8. More troubleshoot is in order before you buy any more parts... the noise in time with the crankshaft... possible source of crankshaft speed noises are a scuffed piston and stuck piston ring... damaged rod bearings... To help pin point the exact location of the noise hold a long tip screw driver or a length of garden hose up to your ear and probe the suspected area... A skuffed piston will bind the ring from expanding in the bore resulting in low compression and a rattle noise... To pin point which cylinder might have a skuffed piston take a compression test... focus on the weak one... To check for a bad rod bearing set the engine at high idle and remove one spark plug wire at a time... if the noise stops then that's the cylinder with the bad rod... if noise continues after both spark plug wires were removed then the noise is something other than a rod knock because a rod will not produce a knock by just turning over the piston... it takes the spark of combustion to produce a sharp metallic sound...
  9. Ron Ayers diagram... https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f59af870021c54be7ae2/clutch[/img]
  10. Its a simple fix designed to get your knees back in the breeze in a timely manner...
  11. I've employed the same method with great success... Ball bearings only hold so much grease... excess grease will push beyond the seal... this push feature is why I first spin the bearing to collect the excess grease before installing the seal...
  12. Under what principal of physics???
  13. A full brake service includes : 1)new pads 2)caliper piston cleaning and lube 3)removing old disc groves 4)new fluid 5)bleed To erase unwanted grooves in either stainless steal or cast iron rotors first remove the buttons... then chuck and spin in a Lathe... work a 180 grit sanding disc against the surface evenly until the groves are gone...
  14. If you remove the oil filler cap you can observe if the clutch plates do move and the degree by which they move or not...
  15. As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...
  16. You're welcome... I checked out your moozic links today on the sound system and I was really getting in to it... Since 1990 I've burned 4 test CDs of excellently engineered tracks of the highest sound quality possible that I'm sure will take you one step further... I don't know about you but I'm in the digital age... I prefer Sand Amps and CDs, whereas some of my friends prefer the Analog age of Tube Amps and Vinyl... Passions are high... the debate never ends... what are the pros and cons of high fidelity sound reproduction??? however we do both agree on perfecting one's sound stage for optimal acoustics in both timber and tone... I could spend hours per day for years fussing over my sound stage...
  17. We are like minded... I invite you to bring your moozic and together we'll fire up my custom sound system that replicates a live concert...
  18. For some riders sound systems are unsafe... they would spend too much attention on the moozic and not enough on where they're going and what they're are doing... so even thought they may not find the right words to express their concerns we still respect their choice...
  19. Moozic non stop on every RC45 ride... I went with custom molded ear plugs with tiny Sony digital speakers... they cut 30db of wind noise and allow every note of the music through even at low volumes... perfect... I added a light weight Xact Sirius satellite receiver... Moozic non stop... If I can afford a ticket I listen to Fast beat Progressive House dance music... if I can't afford a ticket I listen to channel Chill or slow beat dance music... I have to be careful because my right wrist is so effective by the beat... To keep my butt out of jail I interfaced Mr.RC45's Oh Shit Detector's BEEP BEEP BEEEEEEEEEEP...
  20. I searched Ebay for Honda VF500 carburetor and found some for a 84... https://www.ebay.com/itm/115351278213?hash=item1adb78d285:g:gWUAAOSwexNiXyRI
  21. With 41,000 miles on the clocks it must have had the 17 inch wheel mods and the correct ride height added to sorted out the rake and trail... you won't want to ride your RC30 box stock...
  22. To trouble shoot an oil leak start by tracing the wet trail back to its the highest point to determine the origin... if the origin is mid cylinder then investigate a possible blow head gasket... take a compression test to verify the effective cylinder...
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