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Mohawk last won the day on November 11 2016

Mohawk had the most liked content!

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436 Excellent

About Mohawk

  • Rank
    Motorcycle Racing Legend

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  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi Y2K, 120hp, minus 30Kg = VFR800R

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  1. Won't start in Gear

    You will find there is an extension to the lever that pushes the clutch switch contact. I had a similar issue with replacement levers. I just drilled a 3mm hole in the lever where it contacts the switch & put a piece of alloy rod in the hole that protrudes by 1mm which is enough to activate the switch. you could perhaps build it up with tape or use liquid metal etc.
  2. 5th & 6th VFR 800 Header build

    Hey CR, yes the old Sandy Bikes spares pipes were crap. But the newer Black Widow versions appear to be much better quality. Practicle SportsBike Magazine in the UK, has been fitting a bunch of their refurb bikes with these & they seem impressed with the quality & the performance. Performance Bikes magazine did a feature last year on dirt cheap endurance racing. They got a dog of a Bandit 600 & stripped, cleaned & adjusted everything whilst removing the few parts that are allowed in the race series rules. One item that you can change is the exhaust & air filter, everything else engine wise has to be stock. They used Black Widow exhaust & after finishing the build the day before the race meeting & then having an electrical problem that meant they missed most of practice. They rocked up on the Sunday & won their class ! The exhaust looked good in the mag pictures & performed better than stock ! And that is NOT a performance version, just the bog stock replace my rusted out version. So it looks like they have got their act together as far as manufacturing is concerned. Only time & the dyno will tell if they nail it for the VFR's. How's your 6th gen doing ?
  3. Must Have Mods

    I fitted one of those Stiebel Nautilus integrated twin horn units at 45degrees below/in front of the starter motor. It keeps the weight low & that's just dead space down there ! I also fitted a CBR1000 side stand, but made a bracket so I could use the CBR stand mounting bracket, works a treat & having survived being strapped down on it on a Ferry for 24hrs, I don't worry about it now.
  4. Very poor rear brake

    Ha ha :)
  5. driving lights on 5th gen

    Those lower fork mounted lights are not a great idea, They add to unsprung weight, they suffer from hard vibration from the wheel & even if LED their mounts & wiring are subject to that vibration too. They would be much better fitted to the main body of the bike IMO.
  6. Very poor rear brake

    Here's the simple maths. You need a number between 8-10 for a rear & between 25-35 for a front. Lower the number the stiffer the brake feels, higher the number the softer it feels, but it will produce more controlable power but requires more lever movement. To calculate Caliper Piston area you need to do the following;- Caliper Piston diameter/2 x result x 3.14 = Area per piston. VFR rear has 2 x 22mm & 1 x 27mm pistons. So 22/2=11x11x3.14=380mm2 x2 (2 pistons) = 760mm2 And the 3rd piston is 27/2=13.5x13.5x3.14 = 572mm2 Add the two together 760+572 = 1332mm2 To calculate the M/c area you do this;- Piston 17.4/2=8.7x8.7x3.14 = 238mm2 Now devide the caliper area by the M/C area, so 1332/238 = 5.59-1 that is the Hydraulic everage ratio, so not much. With a 14mm M/C we get 7x7x3.14 = 154mm2, so 1332/154 = 8.65-1, so just in thw sweet spot for hydraulic lever for a rear brake. Enjoy :)
  7. Lost a thread on VFRD?

    Whats up with the gearbox ? Generally pretty bullet proof on these.
  8. Kill switch is good if engine turns over, as with it off the starter will NOT run. So ignore that. Define a couple of months ? Some people leave 6 months & claim a couple ! 2 months is a couple, any more is more. That said 2 months is fine to leave one of these, as i've done that every year for ages ! Though I normally try to start it at least once a month if just stored, as opposed to where I usually have bits taken off the bike for maintenance. Only 4 things required for combustion, Fuel, Air, Spark & Compression. So lift your tank & make sure you don't have a mouse nest in the airbox, seems common to VFR's , that proves air, remove the air filter for further diagnostics. For compression, the engine turns over, so should have a healthy pulse at the exhaust outlet, check with your free hand. For Fuel, can you hear the full Fi system check at ignition on ? In a quiet garage, you should hear some relays fire when the igintion is turned on, then hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds to pressurise the fuel rail. Do you hear that ? If yes then wear safety glasses & turn throttle to wide open & crank engine with the starter, you should be able to see fuel being injected in the throttle bodies. Finally that leaves us with spark or lack there of. Simplest test if to get a spare spark plug & pull cylinder 1 (rear left when sat on bike) coil off the cylinder & insert the spare plug, rest the tip of plug on a solid bit of metal, like the cam cover bolt. Now crank engine, do you see a healthy fat blue spark ? Let us know the results.
  9. VFRD now worky thanks!!

    Oh joy its worse than that https://www.theregister.co.uk/2018/03/01/trustico_digicert_symantec_spat/ Oops
  10. VFRD now worky thanks!!

    Well as this is what I work at I was gonna raise it with the site mod, but thought he'd work it out & get it sorted. All down to Google & co getting their knickers in a twist & effectively over reacting. Yes Symantec broke rules, but you just needed them to agree to correct that, not to sink the pooch on all the valid certs that were not dodgy :( Such is life, won't belong before calls for breaking up google come along, they are way to big in the internet space & way too secretive & manipulative, like why do I have to recomfirm my search options every minute, when I say OPT OUT I mean OPT OUT FOREVER Google ! Unfortunately there are no other search engines that don't follow Google models & steal all your PII for their own use, it should NOT be permitted. But hey the rest of the world will catch on hopefully sooner rather than later :(
  11. VFRD now worky thanks!!

    It's down to the site having an untrusted certificate issuer. Symantec did some bad stuff & a bunch of browser makers including Google said they would ban Symantec certs. So Symantec sold their cert business to Digicert, but any issued certs still carry Symantec as the CA & that is NO longer trusted, so it barf's in many browsers !
  12. The basic answer is NO, people always say I changed the oil to type X & my clutch started slipping. It's not the oil type that caused the problem its because its NEW oil, so more slippy than old oil. The 5th gen's (and I assume 6th) has a known issue that the clutch springs set & then cause slippage. As soon as you detect it, change the springs they just get tired & short & don't provide the gripping force they used to. It is very simple to do this on the 5th gen, you don't even need to drain the oil. First get a new clutch cover gasket & a set of springs. Remove the right fairing panel, place bike on side stand, then looosen the clutch cover bolts in a diagonally opposed fashion, as in top right bottom left, top left bottom right & work your way around like that. It might require a rubber mallet tap to seperate the case & there is a lever point on the bottom. Be careful not to lose the two locating dowels or the starter gear, which can come away with the case. Place case on a clean surface, like a newspaper etc. Now remove one clutch spring bolt at a time & replace the spring & tight the bolt to the correct torque setting in the manual its quite light on these as the clutch basket is soft alloy. Once all 5 springs are replaced, remove the old gasket from the cases & cover, clean up where required, check the dowels & starter gear wheel are where they should be & put the new gasket & cover back on. Re insert & tighten the cover bolts in a diagonally opposed fashion & tighten to the specified torque. Job done, enjoy the ride. the plates will need replaced around 50-60K miles with another new set of springs. Enjoy
  13. Stock 5th gen rear wheel is 6Kg or 13.2lb, the front with bearings/spacer/disc bolts (no discs) is 5Kg or 11lb. BST RC45 5.75" width rear is 3Kg & front is 2.5Kg as per above with bearings/spacers/ti disc bolts. My front conversion is minus 4.5Kg (9.9lb) & the rear with quick sprocket change carrier & my own design cush drive is minus 6.5Kg (14.3lb) most of that is off the rotating mass & with carbon wheels its off the rim area, alloy & carbon wheel weights do NOT mean the same thing, as most of the alloy wheels weight is in the rim, so two wheels of the same weight will feel different due to where the weight is. Have fun :)
  14. Basics

    But just remember, counter steer is only used to initiate the turn. The wheels then switch to th same side track following an oval path. You will also find that most sports b8kes will out steer you, try easing your grip on the bars mid turn & you will often find the steers increases into the turn, when you thought you were on the edge. So a light touch is what you need.
  15. How to protect rear shock?

    Similar to Dutch I have added a flap, but also have a hugger & a heat shield. can’t find a good pic, but this one shows most of it. My flap is neoprene rubber, glued to the bottom of the battery box, it catches any crap that makes it over the hugger.

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