Mohawk

You don’t need the timing marks for valve measurement. Just look at the cam lobes, when the tip is opposite the bucket, you can measure the gap. If you need TDC for cam removal/install then a piece of alloy rod or a long screw driver down the plug hole will give you TDC indication. If you use the paint method as advised by Honda, you can count teeth from the head face to the painted teeth ends. There is always a way if you put some thought into it 👍

As per above advice re wear on needles & tubes. That is the most likely issue. Bikes much older than VFR’s are still running on original diaphragms. The worst issue is leaving cabs unused or with stale fuel in them. There used to be drain down kits for carbs available, where you removed the drain screws & used the kit to lead hoses to a single outboard drain point. Either way good lick with finding a cure for your issue.

Athena make good gasket sets for most models, much cheaper than OEM.

I visit Tenerife most years & have driven all over the island. I have to say the roads in the mountains are amazing & would love to do them on a bike. Unfortunately the wife has a bad back now, so can’t ride pillion, which limits my options somewhat. There are also many trails that only an adventure bike could cope with, so plenty of areas to explore. Maybe one of these years I’ll scratch that itch 🙂 Glad you had a good time.

So the main issue here is air direction & an outward blowing fan does cool much more efficiently than the stock one. The standard swap here is to use a VTR1000 fan blade, Firestorm in USA. But there is a caveat. If you fit this fan blade in place of the stock VFR one, then you MUST fit a stone guard grille covering the gap between the engine front left side & the lady radiator. It must cover the whole slot. If a 6mm plus stone gets thrown up from the road & gets into the fan blade it will destroy the radiator cooling vanes when the fan activates. You have been warned.

I’ve had Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 cartridges & springs in mine for 10 years. Plus a Nitrox Race shock on the rear, with the brake delink & loss of 35Kg it handles & brakes like a CBR600RR now 👍😎

YSS Fork Spring Table View File Having spent ages trying to find compatible fork springs for an older bike, I came accross this list on the YSS Thailand site & thought it would be a great cross reference for anyone looking for a fork spring, when they can't find what they need for the specific model ! I had planned to use VFR springs to improve my buddies FJ forks when I refurbed them, but turns out Yamaha use a thicker wall on their 41mm forks, so the VFR springs (35mm OD) won't fit ! I was able to use this file to cross reference the early FJ1200 spring (485mmx33.5mmx0.65Kg/mm) with an XJ900S from 94-03 years which is 490mmx33.5mmx0.8-1.6Kg/mm (progressive), so only 5mm longer but stiffer, just what I needed 🙂 Hope it helps others. Submitter Mohawk Submitted 12/13/19 Category Owners Manuals and other  

First I assume you have both lower triple T’s, if yes then measure the stems see how they compare length wise. Make sure the internal bearing cups are fully seated home. Then if the second locking ring won’t fit, it should be fine if the top triple is snugged down on it. If not then use a locking tab washer, many bikes only have one top stem tension ring with a locking washer.

Ah NASA, used to be a thing that did space stuff. Now just a rock that sucks up billions of dollars of tax funds. $200 broom anyone ? Back to LED’s I fitted bulbs in my 5th gen years ago, they are great. I had to move the H4 plate to get the beam about right. I rarely ride at night, but it really ups my visibility presence on the road, even in bright daylight which is a good thing. The one advantage the bulbs I fitted have is that when you select High Beam, the low stays on too. Whilst the LEDs project light further, it does not reflect back as well as incandescent. Which is why cars rarely have HiD hi beams, as the suffer the same. But they work OK for the rare dark riding I do.

The rad thermo switch should only have one wire to it if it’s the stock one. This wire is 12v+ via the fan, the switch connects to earth via the rad when it reaches the over temperature threshold this then allows power to flow through the fan motor, which will run until either the rad reaches the thermo switch reset temp OR you turn off the ignition. You can test you have it wired correctly as follows. 1. Turn on ignition 2. Pull wire off switch 3. Touch wire to switch body Be aware the fan draws 8amps at start up so will spark when you touch the switch body. Do it firmly & deliberately to minimise sparking. The fan draw reduces to around 5amps once running. If someone wired up a bypass switch, normally you would create a new earth then take a wire from it to the bypass switch. Then take a wire from the original thermo switch supply wire by tapping into it somehow ( 3 way blade connector etc) to the other pole on the bypass switch. This allows bypass manual control of the fan, but it will still activate automatically if you forget !

Blimey the old myth still persists! You only need one resistor across the +/- terminals of ONE O2 sensor power lead. The resistance is NOT really important, as the ECU only detects voltage. This is ONLY required to keep the Fi light off in the dash. But the ECU will default to a stored RICH map, as neither O2 sensor is delivering Lambda readings. The ECU will also record O2 sensor error in its error log. So if you fit an exhaust without O2 ports for your Lambda sensors, then you should really add a Fuel Management system to get the bike running its best & keep fuel consumption reasonable. As always YMMV

I find 16/45 a better bet, drives from low down in any gear.

The master cylinders are the same, so the levers should interchange.

I’ve been using just wide Band for years with my RBRacing module. The narrow band sensors are just looped together on the RRR harness. I use both the original O2 sensor feeds to power the MTB wideband sensor, you have to use both as the Wideband sensor draws to much current for one feed to supply it. As an FYI You only need power through on stock O2 sensor feed to keep the Fi light out. Because the alameda signal is not seen the ECU defaults to a rich map. It is this map you use the RBR or PC3/5 to correct. Have fun 👍