Mohawk

Well it's a great idea, I like it. As far as strength goes for steel shelving just remember how small the centre stands are on your bikes, it can support the full weight of the bike with a rider to boot. So it doesn't take much steel to take the weight. And diagonal braces will redirect the load into the wall affixed verticals, so no need of front support legs. Re the lifter legs, each bike should have one lift position, so you only need leg space equidistant from the balance point of each pallet/sled, so place your tools to suit!

You do realise this is a 15year old thread right !

5th gen already has oil feed to stator. One of the issues with 6th gen is they closed that oil feed & early 6th gens burned out stators. The 5th gen has the worlds most power hungry clock. If you leave the battery attached & not on a tender it will drain it.

If you get the "signs" its already to late. VFR's tend to tighten #3 cylinder first as its the hottest cylinder due to the rear exhaust header routing. Numerous people skip adjustments & many others do them to Hondas 16K mile intervals & both have found some need adjusting. It's not like dropping a heavyweight from a roof, every crankcase & set of machining & initial setup is slightly different, just as some people ride very gently & others cane it at high revs mercilessly. Thus as always YMMV between valve adjustments. Your bike, your coin or time, thus your choice.

Yes if they are not to worn or glazed. You could try adding fresh oil to the plates through the oil fill port using a syringe & check the clutch is lifting properly. Pull the clutch lever in whilst doing this & use a wide bladed screw driver to make sure all plates separate.

Need a side on pic, never seen those before, weird but interesting, no good for a high mount pipe.

So a LifePO4 battery has a nominal voltage of 3.2v x4=12.8v a good 12v lead acid battery should have a static voltage when charged & rested of 12.7v. Nominal charging voltage for a LiFePO4 battery is 3.4-3.65v or for 4 cells connected in series 13.6-14.6v. Most bike 12v charging systems put out 14.4-14.7v maximum & if the battery voltage matches the rectifier's output voltage the RR shunts the excess to the heat sink, saving the battery from overcharging. So LiFePO4 batteries are quite happy in a motorcycles charging system. The higher voltage is only required for LiPo batteries which have a nominal 3.7v per cell, or 14.8v for a 4 cell pack. They are fully charged at 4.2v, which equates to a 16.8v charging voltage. But you really should NOT use LiPo in a bike, they are the ones that swell when not looked after correctly, as in they require load balanced per cell charging & if abused quite happily burst into flames ! Check out electric car fires online for reference. If your bikes RR fails then LiFePO4 reacts much like a Lead Acid battery, it will be overcharged & die, but LiPo WILL set your bike on fire. Your bike & your balls are at risk, you have been warned 😂

I've been using EBC HH pads since forever, never found them noisier than stock pads. I'm concerned that the pad shims are that weird shape only covering 2/3rds of the pads & 1/2 of one piston. All my previous pads had full coverage shims. But I see you tried them without cooling shims & claim the same noise. If it was my bike I would clean the disc bobbins so they rotate freely then degrease the discs to remove any contaminants. Then make sure that all pistons in each calliper are moving freely after a proper cleaning. They are easy to force back with a wooden lever once pumped out a little, put an appropriate thickness block of wood in one caliper whilst you work on the other to avoid accidental piston pop. When cleaning pump them out half way so you can get all the crap off them, you should always do this when replacing pads, because you need them to retract fully to get the new pads in ! If not you may be forcing crap into the piston dust & fluid seals which will make them inefficient. Then of course you have to bed the pads. Empty road behind you, apply hard from 60mph, at least 3 times, allow to cool by riding normally & repeat above cycle one or two more times. Then pads should be bedded to the disc surface. If you only gentle brake the pads will take ages to bed in, they will be less efficient & noisier during that long bed in.

The fuel line is off the spigot, so fuel is depressurised, does that after a few minutes with no pump running. The Electrical connecter pic is not very clear, but looks like a waterproof one. They normally have a single locking tab which according to this pic is on the pump side so the release will be on the harness half of the plug. It will be a lift or squeeze to unlock. They are often difficult to separate due to the seal between the two parts. I can't find a pick of the other half of the connector.

So decided that the old double bubble screen which has started to crack internally & has snapped locator lugs under the mirror mounts needed to be replaced. After a bit of searching the MRA screen whilst expensive looks the best. Before = Old Screen After = New MRA Screen The MRA screen is a little lower than the old one. Measured from the front of the steering stem bolt, old screen was 14.25" above, MRA is 12.5" above. At speed you need to tuck a little at 100mph to get the benefit from the new screen, old one was good to 120mph before you needed to tuck. At lower speeds they are much the same.

When you say delinked, you mean the fronts are now 3 pots on front lever ? Has the MC been updated ? If Vtec is same as 5th gen then the MC is too small when you have 6 pistons to move. The calculations are simple area of combined pistons/area of MC=X where X should be around 15. Assuming 4x 1" pistons on the Vtec originally & a 1/2" MC gives 16/1 ratio. If you add in 2 more 1" pistons it drops to 24/1 ratio, which means lots more lever travel before high pressure is built. The flex you are seeing is a red herring, they all do that before high pressure is built. You can't use VTR sliders on a 6th gen, they are 41mm bore & the 6th gen forks are 43mm. You could use CBR600F4 sliders and full brake system.

Depending on your environment & how much stone chipping you get on your fork sliders over time, which is the usual reason for refinishing. I would advise full fork strip, get the sliders vapour blasted back to bare metal then you can finish them how you like for smoothness & remove mould lines etc. then get them anodised in the colour of your choice. Note that Clear anodise is NOT clear & comes out gray! Ask me how I know. So either get them done in a solid colour or do like mine which were then painted over the anodise with bright silver. Bonus is the anodise stops the legs corroding where stone chips occur. Still look good after 10years.

Sounds like a duff battery or dodgy wiring. 12v battery should read 12.6v+ at rest. Anything lower is considered flat, as witnessed by the at rest with ignition on being below 12v. Suggest a good recovery charger be tried if that doesn't work replace the battery.

Just enter this in eBay or a browser & you'll see what I mean shock clevice extender

You can get bottom clevis adaptors that bolt in to the shock clevis making the shock longer. The thing you really need to check is the shock stroke old -V- new. The new shock must have a stroke at least equal to the old one to work with the VFR linkages otherwise it will bottom out early.