Mohawk

Someone may have changed the switch. I know I went through about 3 before I found one that starts/stops the fan where I want it to which is 90/80C. The stock one comes on way to late IMO, then has to run for a long time to bring the temps down.

If you have a little tyre air pump, you can use it to pop the pistons out. As previously stated remove the pads & then place them both loose in the caliper. Then use brake M/C to pump pistons most of the way out. Then remove the pads & hose & drain the fluid. If you don't have a piston puller, clean & wrap the exposed piston ends with tape. Use small mole grips on the taped areas to wiggle them out the last bit. If you are replacing the pistons then you can forgo the tape. If they can't be wiggled out from there then move to next phase. Most pumps have a plastic tapered filler with a s schrader valve end, for what I don't know, but if you shorten it, it can be threaded into the banjo hole. Connect your pump & use something to keep the loosest piston from popping out. The pressure will then be applied to the tight one. Job jobbed.

Exhaust Gaskets

The original headers have a large flange, the TBR & I assume these replicas have a narrow one because the pipe has a wider internal diameter. You want a gasket that fits in the exhaust port outlet & does not protrude into the exhaust port area to maximise flow. When you pull the existing exhaust the gaskets normally stick to the port, you will see the stock gaskets protrude into the exhaust port flow area. You want to avoid that. So using a wider diameter gasket that just fits inside the outer port & seals the header flange without protruding into the exhaust port area. I supplied the original dimensions to the guys when creating these headers. Cast head ports are not guaranteed to be exactly the same, so if possible its best to measure yours & buy the widest & thinest gasket that will fit & seal. Have fun.

Just add car blind spot mirrors above the stock ones. There are some that are semi circular designed to sit above a car mirror in a conformal manner. I use one on my cars driver side and it makes a huge difference. On my 5th gen I just angle them out wide so my elbows only show in the very inner & the mirror gives a wider field of view. That said I have GSXR indicator mirrors that have a better range of movement having a separate mirror to the shell.

I use a Nitron Race 4 way adjustable (hi/low speed compression, rebound & preload) with remote reservoir on mine & its brilliant. 10 years 30K miles & still works great.

If not started in 15 years was the fuel system emptied and the injectors cleaned out. If not then you probably have gummed up injectors. You can remove & check them but if 5th the whole throttle body has to come out to get at them. You can clean them yourself or get them done professionally. Just need a 12v supply a can of carb cleaner & a tube on the fuel feed with a tyre pump to make pressure. Mount them vertically & squirt carb cleaner in the tube, leave to soak overnight. Then top up carb cleaner attach pump to hose, you can use carb cleaner can pressure if you can rig up an adapter. Get a bucket below injectors & use a couple of insulated wires in the power pins. Leave one on battery and quickly tap the other. No polarity it works either way. You will hear solenoid in injector click. If clean stuff will squirt out. If gummed it may dribble if dribble let some through, then leave to soak longer. Try another injector. Have fun.

01 has wax units for cold start. Mine went & bike would idle up to about 50C then die even when riding it. If you keep the revs up until it hits 60C then all gets good. If you try that & it works then you know its your wax unit shutting off to early.

Yep no more popping & banging on the over run. 👍

A couple of Kg out of the rear end is never a bad thing. Lets hope it comes off. I know Stray has a couple of stock ones so he can confirm the weights.

I got a part set of Chinese 5th gen panels 2nd hand, but unused. The original purchaser only needed the front cowl after hitting a small deer. The replacements would NOT marry up with the original top cowl nor fit proper around the engine & join up. I'm sure they would have fitted up if they were all the Chinese set. So I found a 2nd hand left panel after a lot of searching. The rear & infills look good & should git if ever needed.

Knew I had a pic somewhere

I've thought about doing this & on the 5th gen using the flapper valve vacuum which opens at 5krpm IIRC 👍 Also thought about standoff fi using the same trigger to switch feed from in TB injectors to above velocity stack ones. Not sure how much it would gain but an idea.

I think that was the Bio-Blade, which was a 5th gen in Blade clothing. Built by a magazine. I contacted the Journalist responsible at the time. It was lightly breathed on & run on ethanol, hence the bio part of its name. It made 124hp at the wheel & had USD forks & ran in the Belgium modern classic endurance series.

Count me in 👍