Mohawk

Re 5th gen differential vacuum & 6th gen equal Vacuum. its all to do with the headers length NOTHING else. If you look at the right side of both bikes with the riders leg heat shield removed, you can see that on a 5th gen #1 cylinder header is the rear most of the C shaped headers that run down & under the right foot rest. With #3 cylinder header being the forward one. You can easily see that #1 is significantly longer. On the 6th gen Honda fixed this by making #1 & 3 headers swap over & thus #1 header is the forward one. This also explains why the 6th g

No they have been upgraded, same lift more duration.

So HighsideNZ has a 5th gen engine in 6th gen frame, with a 74mm bigbore & all of my mods for 140hp. I have a lightweight 5th gen circa 205Kg wet, with 120hp. I'd like to do more to it, but time & money always arrive independently ☹️ I never seem to have both at the same time. Happy modding 👍

Thanks for the tips & kind comments. Will see how it goes in a weeks time. Cheers

For those who have followed my VFR saga over the last 11 years, wIll be very familiar with my highly modified Y2K model. Headline figures are 118rwhp, 35Kg lighter than stock. Carbon wheels, lots of Titanium nuts+bolts, screws, axles etc. Full info on request. I'm considering selling it, so thought I'd gauge if there is any interest at sensible money. To give an idea of cost to get to this point its cost me approximately £6500 (circa US$8500) . No good reason for sale, I just don't use it much so could use the cash for other projects. PM me if interested.

All VFR’s may have left the factory like that but not all are like that now. I made & fitted a heat shield between the rear headers & shock on mine & the left side NACA duct directs cool air at the shock. Never experienced fade in my Nitron remote reservoir shock 🙂

The Pair system has NO effect at idle, it is only activated during overrun when you shut the throttle.

Rear cylinders on all V4's run richer because they run hotter than the front bank due to less air flow over the rear bank.

Fairly simple. You need a couple of gauges, I prefer to use just two, that I calibrate on cylinder #1 which is the reference & not adjustable. On the 5th gen you need a magic screw driver, I use a piece of old wiper blade SS reinforcing strip about 5" long with a 3/8" blade at one end at 90degrees & another in the opposite direction on the other end a couple of inches long for a handle. Lift the tank, then on each side of the airbox there is a rubber vacuum hose for throttle body. Start engine & let it come up to temp 80c. Then adjust the idle to 1200-1300rpm. Connect gauge to #

The confusion comes from peoples misunderstanding of basic arithmetic. Basically you have Positive 2,3,4,5 and Negative values -2,-3,-4,-5. Where people go wrong is not understanding that -50 as a reference, then -40 is NOT -10, its -90 ! So on my post-it note, cylinder 1 is not adjustable & is the reference cylinder. On my guage below that usually measures around 200mm you can see below the needle on the left inner scale. Cylinder 2 should be adjusted = to #1. Cylinder 3 should be 220 on my gauge & cylinder 4 = 210mm. These are vacuum figures (negative) in mm/hg. H

The LED's I have used for years had the locating plate in the wrong place which put the LED emitter in the wrong place. Once corrected it throws a good pattern.

You should have the oil to the sight glass upper level when cold after the engine has run. Never let it get below the lower mark. Maximum oil reduces the wear on the oil, minimum oil engine runs hottest & it won't last aa long. YMMV

You should be able to remove the triangle plates & then undo the frame top bolt & drop the shock down through the hole in the swingarm. Reverse to insert new one.

Won't fit how I want, so not needed.

Hey Wacken, the RBR uses a variable table like the PC. And it is a % +/- add/remove duty cycle system too, same as PC So you can pop any PC map into excel & then select what you want from the PC & drop into the RBR map for the same cells.