Mohawk

You do realise this is a 15year old thread right !

5th gen already has oil feed to stator. One of the issues with 6th gen is they closed that oil feed & early 6th gens burned out stators. The 5th gen has the worlds most power hungry clock. If you leave the battery attached & not on a tender it will drain it.

If you get the "signs" its already to late. VFR's tend to tighten #3 cylinder first as its the hottest cylinder due to the rear exhaust header routing. Numerous people skip adjustments & many others do them to Hondas 16K mile intervals & both have found some need adjusting. It's not like dropping a heavyweight from a roof, every crankcase & set of machining & initial setup is slightly different, just as some people ride very gently & others cane it at high revs mercilessly. Thus as always YMMV between valve adjustments. Your bike, your coin or time, thus your choice.

Yes if they are not to worn or glazed. You could try adding fresh oil to the plates through the oil fill port using a syringe & check the clutch is lifting properly. Pull the clutch lever in whilst doing this & use a wide bladed screw driver to make sure all plates separate.

Need a side on pic, never seen those before, weird but interesting, no good for a high mount pipe.

So a LifePO4 battery has a nominal voltage of 3.2v x4=12.8v a good 12v lead acid battery should have a static voltage when charged & rested of 12.7v. Nominal charging voltage for a LiFePO4 battery is 3.4-3.65v or for 4 cells connected in series 13.6-14.6v. Most bike 12v charging systems put out 14.4-14.7v maximum & if the battery voltage matches the rectifier's output voltage the RR shunts the excess to the heat sink, saving the battery from overcharging. So LiFePO4 batteries are quite happy in a motorcycles charging system. The higher voltage is only required for LiPo batteries which have a nominal 3.7v per cell, or 14.8v for a 4 cell pack. They are fully charged at 4.2v, which equates to a 16.8v charging voltage. But you really should NOT use LiPo in a bike, they are the ones that swell when not looked after correctly, as in they require load balanced per cell charging & if abused quite happily burst into flames ! Check out electric car fires online for reference. If your bikes RR fails then LiFePO4 reacts much like a Lead Acid battery, it will be overcharged & die, but LiPo WILL set your bike on fire. Your bike & your balls are at risk, you have been warned 😂

I've been using EBC HH pads since forever, never found them noisier than stock pads. I'm concerned that the pad shims are that weird shape only covering 2/3rds of the pads & 1/2 of one piston. All my previous pads had full coverage shims. But I see you tried them without cooling shims & claim the same noise. If it was my bike I would clean the disc bobbins so they rotate freely then degrease the discs to remove any contaminants. Then make sure that all pistons in each calliper are moving freely after a proper cleaning. They are easy to force back with a wooden lever once pumped out a little, put an appropriate thickness block of wood in one caliper whilst you work on the other to avoid accidental piston pop. When cleaning pump them out half way so you can get all the crap off them, you should always do this when replacing pads, because you need them to retract fully to get the new pads in ! If not you may be forcing crap into the piston dust & fluid seals which will make them inefficient. Then of course you have to bed the pads. Empty road behind you, apply hard from 60mph, at least 3 times, allow to cool by riding normally & repeat above cycle one or two more times. Then pads should be bedded to the disc surface. If you only gentle brake the pads will take ages to bed in, they will be less efficient & noisier during that long bed in.

The fuel line is off the spigot, so fuel is depressurised, does that after a few minutes with no pump running. The Electrical connecter pic is not very clear, but looks like a waterproof one. They normally have a single locking tab which according to this pic is on the pump side so the release will be on the harness half of the plug. It will be a lift or squeeze to unlock. They are often difficult to separate due to the seal between the two parts. I can't find a pick of the other half of the connector.

So decided that the old double bubble screen which has started to crack internally & has snapped locator lugs under the mirror mounts needed to be replaced. After a bit of searching the MRA screen whilst expensive looks the best. Before = Old Screen After = New MRA Screen The MRA screen is a little lower than the old one. Measured from the front of the steering stem bolt, old screen was 14.25" above, MRA is 12.5" above. At speed you need to tuck a little at 100mph to get the benefit from the new screen, old one was good to 120mph before you needed to tuck. At lower speeds they are much the same.

When you say delinked, you mean the fronts are now 3 pots on front lever ? Has the MC been updated ? If Vtec is same as 5th gen then the MC is too small when you have 6 pistons to move. The calculations are simple area of combined pistons/area of MC=X where X should be around 15. Assuming 4x 1" pistons on the Vtec originally & a 1/2" MC gives 16/1 ratio. If you add in 2 more 1" pistons it drops to 24/1 ratio, which means lots more lever travel before high pressure is built. The flex you are seeing is a red herring, they all do that before high pressure is built. You can't use VTR sliders on a 6th gen, they are 41mm bore & the 6th gen forks are 43mm. You could use CBR600F4 sliders and full brake system.

Depending on your environment & how much stone chipping you get on your fork sliders over time, which is the usual reason for refinishing. I would advise full fork strip, get the sliders vapour blasted back to bare metal then you can finish them how you like for smoothness & remove mould lines etc. then get them anodised in the colour of your choice. Note that Clear anodise is NOT clear & comes out gray! Ask me how I know. So either get them done in a solid colour or do like mine which were then painted over the anodise with bright silver. Bonus is the anodise stops the legs corroding where stone chips occur. Still look good after 10years.

Sounds like a duff battery or dodgy wiring. 12v battery should read 12.6v+ at rest. Anything lower is considered flat, as witnessed by the at rest with ignition on being below 12v. Suggest a good recovery charger be tried if that doesn't work replace the battery.

Just enter this in eBay or a browser & you'll see what I mean shock clevice extender

You can get bottom clevis adaptors that bolt in to the shock clevis making the shock longer. The thing you really need to check is the shock stroke old -V- new. The new shock must have a stroke at least equal to the old one to work with the VFR linkages otherwise it will bottom out early.

Lucky catch Larry, phew 👍

Just take it to your nearest car tyre place. Fits nicely on a car wheel balancer & costs tuppence to get done👍

That is caused by someone placing dirty cams back in the head & or NOT following the assembly instructions. Honda state when the cams are removed you need to ensure all journal surfaces are clean. Then use ASSEMBLY lube on the bearing surfaces. Assembly lube is 50% molybdenum grease & 50% engine oil mixed together. The grease provides protection until the oil system develops pressure in the journal, the grease is then flushed out & the oil remains as usual. They don't look bad, I've seen worse that went many miles with no issues. Clean it re-assemble it & ride it like ya stole it.

If the rear wheel won't turn with the clutch in then you can't bump start or push the bike. You can get a long pippet or oil bottle with a long flex nozzle then pull the clutch lever in & tie it to the bar. Then through the oil filler port squirt the clutch with fresh oil, then use a long wide flat head screwdriver to twist between the plates to release them one at a time in the clutch basket. As you free them add more oil to the clutch basket. Should work.

All 3 callipers on the 02 model are sliding versions. With them off the bike mounts, check that they slide freely on the slider pins. If they are not free moving, pull the mount slider pins frame off the calliper's & check the state of the pins, rubber boots. Clean & apply correct lube & reassemble. Check the state of the pistons & seals. Put a spanner shaft between the pads & a gentle lever pull should move them out & they should retract a little once released. Re mount & test again.

If these are bare wheels then red diesel or kerosene cut through grime really well & then just rinse with soap/water of your choice. Just use disposable rags as they will be thrown away when done.

Now ya know how Dutchy keeps his locks looking so good. It's the oil tasting diet 😳🤷‍♀️

Met him a few times at his Race School at Silverstone & Donington. Met his son Leon again at the Donny track day Stray & I did last October (2024).

Stock 5th gens put out approx 95hp at the wheel. With 98/99 copy headers & opening the airbox + K&N etc with a custom tune will net you around 112hp. As dynojet dynos are notorious for there inconsistency from location to location, a +/- 2-3hp is within the error margin. Most race bike tuners set their dynos up to read conservatively. Some outfits set them up very liberally. As always YMMV.

You can code a new HISS key but only if you have the master key, which is the one with the Red Chip cover on the key edge.

I don't believe they were sold in the USA, you had the original Ninja 250 (1986-2007) right up until the new 250R was released in 2008, the rest of the world got the ZZR from 1990 depending on country, until the new 250R was released in 2008. Mine is a 2001 model imported from France as UK only got them in 91/92 IIRC. They are slightly more powerful than the Ninja 250 & make around 26hp at the wheel. My 315cc project will take that to circa 44rwhp which the chassis is more than capable of dealing with. I have added a KR1-S front end, with cartridge fork internals with twin disc's & an Ohlins shock with KR1-S alloy swingarm. It handles like a scalpel & makes the VFR feel like a bus 😂