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Mohawk

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Everything posted by Mohawk

  1. If you reduce the gaps around the radiator it reduces the bypass flow. Like everything it always takes the path of least resistance, so at low speed the air bypasses if it can. At higher speeds the pressure differential is bigger & the volume of air greater so it passes through the rad core. When I was having cooling issues a few years back I added additional deflectors in front of the rad vents on the fairing to create a bigger pressure differential sooner. It worked but then I discovered my rads were furred up inside. Do a good clean & all back to normal πŸ‘
  2. Looking good MD. @BiKenG Ken when will yours look like this ?
  3. Do you Ride with ball of the feet on the pegs, or flat foot ? Try it bikes are so much more responsive when your feet are in touch & it changes the angle of contact & lifts some weight too.
  4. Some Kawasaki's only have a bearing shoulder on one side of the wheel. As above you fit that side, then put spacer in the wheel, then fit the other bearing until it meets the spacer. First time I saw one I thought the wheel was broken. As to knocking out bearings if you don't have a puller, the spacer normally can be moved to one side to allow access to the outer bearing shell to drift it out.
  5. Sign of the times. For 20 years salaries have been static & real jobs have declined replaced with zero hours contracts & no security. The value of all western currencies has halved in those same 20 years. Thus what cost 5K in whatever your currency is, now costs 10K 😳 But your pay packet still says you only have 5K disposable income ☹️ And so they try to make machines that will sell using the cash people have to play with. Two cylinders cost half as much to make and maintain. 8 valves V 16 valves, half as many cam lobes to grind etc etc. Most of the other parts have gotten cheaper over time, so they can still bring a bike is around the 10K price point. They could make what people claim they want, but how many would drop 25K on a sport tourer πŸ€” Let me guess, nah not worth it.
  6. The only way the yokes can be out of line with the wheel spindle is if the fork leg is bent. Support the bike so forks are fully extended with tyre just touching the ground. Loosen all yoke bolts & wheel spindle. Give everything a wiggle & rotate the chrome stanchions, feel for any offsetting which would indicate a bent tube. Tighten wheel spindle & check alignment, if still off then something is bent.
  7. Hi Larry, so how often do you run Mr RC45 for a good hard heat cycle then stop & drain the oil immediately? I'll start the guessing at never. Warm verses Hot ? Hot oil drains immediately & hot shell bearings do not like losing their heat soak. Refill engine with new oil & at first crank you have no oil in the pump, so first few revs are with no oil pressure & very little residual oil if any. Why risk that ? Any way each to their own πŸ‘
  8. Not sure about a straight swap, but if the are the same diameter then generally you can slot them straight in. Just check mudguard(fender) fits, discs are the same diameter so your calipers fit. That said, if going to the effort, if the bikes a keeper, get an 8th Gen frontend instead, or any number of other donor bikes. Better suspension, better brakes, whats not to love πŸ‘
  9. I always run the bike for a minute just to stir the oil up, but not up to running temp, a few high revs to get oil flowing, then drain it. This is just to pick up any contamination that may have settled out. Never drain oil from a hot engine, it acts as a heat soak for the main bearings.
  10. Just checking if you get this in right format πŸ‘πŸ€”
  11. I had a DRZ 400 SM new they are ace, great fun, but the vibes, plank seat & small tank not much good for distance work. With a KLR650 carb & DRZ-E model silencer (ha that's a joke) make it rev & go great managed 110mph on it πŸ˜πŸ‘ I sold it & bought my VFR, which I'm just waiting to have its MoT done now.
  12. There is a spring behind the piston to ensure it stays attached to the end of the rod. When you remove the slave you should put a clamp on it to stop the soft spring pushing the piston out. As suggested you can use a C-clamp to SLOWLY move it back in, remember you are forcing fluid back through the M/C bleed hole. If you want it to move faster, then crack the bleed nipple & after adding a hose & fluid catcher, then you can push it back with your fingers. Remember to top up the M/C with fresh fluid. When reinstalling, get everything ready, remove clamp & pop slave into place, keep pressure on it with one hand. With the other hand pop bolts into place finger tight. You can let the pressure off now πŸ‘ Hope that helps.
  13. Cleared the garage around it so I could get to it. Then refitted a charged battery. Wheeled it out & it fired up first press of the starter. I topped up the tyre pressures, tested everything still works & booked it in for an MoT on Tuesday morning πŸ‘
  14. It was done on a dyno many moons ago. Got approx 1.5hp across the mid range to top end on a 5th gen. 6th gen, flapper works on a different cycle to 5th gen. it only closes at specific rpm for noise control. As to air flow moving air is less dense than static air. The only air velocity that matters is that through the throttle bodies.
  15. What you are selling your baby ? Castrol for sure, but if you have both sets of panels, then both πŸ‘
  16. My simple process for all bike brakes works. Get new pads. Add bleed hose to each calipers bleed nipple in turn start furthest from reservoir if an inline connection over the wheel. Crack bleed nipple & use a thin lever to push the old pads & pistons all the way home. Close nipple repeat on other caliper. Now loosen pad retainers pins, if possible to remove in place do so. If not then remove calipers one at a time & remove pads, clean brake dust away. Insert new pads, relocate caliper, torque caliper bolts & pad pins. Finally put bars/stands to the position that gets the master cylinder as close to horizontal as possible. Cover area with rags, remove cap & top ip reservoir. Gently pump brake lever till firm, if required top up fluid again. Clean & replace reservoir seal & cap. Job jobbed πŸ‘
  17. Looks like the ecu fault shunt connector under middle left of seat. You put a wire across it to read the stored fault codes.
  18. I take it that those white plastic bottles in the airbox are NOT connected to anything, right ? If so they are sound resonance chambers, probably there just yo reduce intake noise for passing tests. Take them out & see if it affects the sound.
  19. 5th & 6th gen vent the tank via a tube welded in to the bottom of the tank with its top just under the inside of the top of the tank. Thus you can fully fill the tank. There is NO vent in the cap. I assume 8th gen is the same, but don't know for sure. Either way there shouldn't be any hissing.
  20. Or if they followed the service schedule & removed cleaned & repacked the rear axle. Normal rear ends get stripped every time you change a tyre., just like your front wheel. But SSSA don't, they should get stripped & cleaned every 2-3 years & then they wouldn't need a hammer !
  21. That sounds like a starter clutch engagement issue, either low amps from battery or a mechanical issue.
  22. So you say the crank lube oil way for #4 rod may have been the issue. Its a straight through drilling, was it blocked when removed the rod ? Where were the shells relative to each other when you separated the rod ? Re the journal being under size once ground to smooth. Why not just have it welded up then ground to a standard size ?
  23. The front centre is the engine crankcase breather. And if bike is normally stored on its side stand then any oil residue will run to the front left plastic intake trumpet & seep down between the plastic & metal throttle body. When engine runs the vacuum pressure will suck it on to the butterfly & into the intake. My 5th gen does the same on #3 pot, as the breather is in the rear right corner of the airbox. Don't worry about it.
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