Jump to content

styran

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About styran

  • Rank
    Local Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bay Area
  • In My Garage:
    2007 VFR800

Recent Profile Visitors

133 profile views
  1. I did this for a day and clutch lever got stronger. I also found a bleed nipple at the MC and bled that. Although air did come out it still would not fully engage. The brake fluid was a little too clear so I’m gonna assume some water got in there. I’ll be sure to rebleed before putting everything back together. I idled the bike steadily at around 220F (when the fan turns on) and the clutch worked. The wheel would turn when I shifted to first but then would eventually stop. When I killed the engine it was harder to turn the wheel with the clutch in. Is this no
  2. I put the new coil in and it holds up great. Now I'm just praying I don't get any oil leaks. I managed to get the engine running again and I'm getting close to getting it back on the road. Thanks again for your help, advice, and generosity
  3. I just fixed a thread near the clutch slave cylinder so I had to remove it from the bike. It was off for a month with the fluid completely drained but the line still connected. The gasket was ripped so I replaced it and put it back on. I'm not sure if this relates to the problem but the oil was changed at this time. Yesterday I put DOT 4 brake fluid in the reservoir and tried to bleed it but the lever had no pressure so it was impossible to bleed. I read somewhere online that if you take off the SC and push it against the rod air will come out. So, I did that and lots of air b
  4. Maybe it's just me but I think the bike sounds great with the stock exhausts. IMO they look really good from the back and you can still hear the engine roar when you accelerate.
  5. Well about three weeks ago I took an angle grinder like what @Cogswell said and I managed to thread the whole hole. Once I got three helicoils in I put in the bolt and tightened and the bolt got stuck. What ended up happening is the bolt split in two with the thread portion of it stuck one inch down the hole. It is lodged in between the crankcase and the gearshift linkage cover. I definitely should have taken the cover off before sticking helicoils down that deep hole. So now I'm really in trouble and I can't even get the cover off cause the bolt is keeping it in place. I had to remove the wat
  6. You probably just need a new gasket. You'll have to take off the fairings and drain the oil to fix it though. Try that and see if it fixes it. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/11394-MBG-000?ref=203eca91293ea854927da50c02c12c28262e9d7d If the problem is the cover itself leaking then that's about $300 on Partzilla for a new cover. You could probably buy some used one cheaper on eBay though. When you take off the cover to replace the gasket take a look at the inside of the cover and pray that there's no holes in it. Also make sure you don't o
  7. Is there a specific torque spec for these bolts? I broke the thread by applying barely any torque at all.
  8. if you look at the first image you can barely see a gasket poking out. The threading is past that gasket so the bolt is holding the slave cylinder in place and another cover in between the transmission and drive sprocket. So, I don't think threading just the surface would be a good idea.
  9. After changing out my front sprocket, without much force I managed to break one of the threads of the clutch slave cylinder/ front sprocket cover. Now I can't get the cover on and I essentially have no clutch. I bought a Helicoil kit to repair the thread but the tap is not long enough to fit all the way down the hole. The shank is also too big and gets stuck when trying to drill further than the thread length. I tried looking online for longer taps but I found nothing helpful. The hole is about 2.25in deep. The bolt is M6x1.0 ^^
  10. Alright, the job is done. I ended replacing the wire terminal and soldering a copper wire to the switch and it works like a charm now. Thanks everyone for the excellent advice!
  11. Would I be better off just soldering a copper wire to the oil pressure switch instead of replacing the whole harness?
  12. Alright, so I finally managed to find the oil pressure switch. It turns out it was hidden behind the thermostat which wasn't mentioned in the service manual. So, I had to remove that too which was a massive pain in the ass. The wire going to the switch was cut. I'm guessing it was an accident by the previous owner's mechanic. I'm not sure why he didn't just buy a new wire harness as they are not that expensive anyways. So, now I'm ordering a new wire harness and I guess I'm going to replace the old oil switch anyways since I already have a new one. Also attached to the wire
  13. One thing I did not notice when buying my 2007 VFR800 was that the oil light does not come on when the key is turned. According to the manual, it should always come on before the engine starts. The bike runs fines and I have noticed no problems whatsoever with performance. Some may say this is a non issue but if the oil pressure system doesn't work and I have an oil leak, for example, the oil drain bolt falling out while riding and I am not notified of this via the dash my engine will be seriously damaged since it is running with little to no oil. There's two things I can t
  14. I've ridden my bike a lot recently, testing the speed and acceleration and the light has never came on since. Except at the usual times during startup. So I'm gonna assume this is a non issue but that will change if it comes on again.
  15. Today, I was accelerating pretty fast thanks to VTEC in my 2007 VFR800 and the FI light came on while I was hauling ass but turned off as soon as I rolled off the throttle. Should I be worried about this or is it normal?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.