RC1237V

Clutches can be really difficult to bleed vs brakes, as they are spring loaded, rather than a positive stop. The cheap/easy fix is remove the slave cylinder (3 bolts) and put a C-clamp on it so the piston cannot move, much like opposing brake pistons pushing against the pads, pushing on the rotor. Bleed it as you would the brakes. Once the lever is solid, remove the C-clamp, remount the slave cylinder and you are done!

I have an "F" model spare radiator with a pin hole in it. I soldered it and it lasted two years then started to weep again. No dripping leaks, but would get crusty coolant colored stuff near the repair. $50 plus shipping and its yours.... 2013 model

I posted below the pic, that is is not my bike, and I found it on a google search. I think OP was looking for black bikes with gold wheels....but they look like 3rd Gen mirrors, and those stupid condoms over the stalks are a pain in the ass. I changed mine out to a later mirror.

I will keep that in mind, as I think I have a bad diaphragm. Any sources other than used carbs?

About to re-assemble, but the Lite Tek kit came with O-ring #006 (2x9.5x13) and O-ring #012 (2x9x13). It seems like one set will be extra? I cannot tell which set goes on the air tubes as the old O-rings are so shrunken, that they do not measure anywhere near the size of the new parts. Anyone know which is correct, and where do the 4 remaining O-rings go? Also, is there any carb assembly lube, or just put them on dry? Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks!

+1

Is it ok to not put the caps back on the ide screws, or will they creep out of adjustment over time?

Thanks Squirrelman, I will be ordering the #40 jets...........

Is there a +/- tolerance?

Show Fig. 28 please.....

Ok, so I have the lite-tek kit and a new fuel pump as the old one was leaking from the electrical connector. Bought all new float valves and seats, floats look ok. Carbs are all separated, and one of them is apart. Here is what I found: Main Jet: 135 Pilot Jet: 38 Needle: #3 Fuel Screws: 2 and a half turns out Two Bros header and pipe Factory Ignition Advancer K&N Air Filter The bike ran like a banshee up top, and would pull hard at any rpm, but when cruising around, if I would get back on the gas, or try to rev match, there would be nothing there. Also it would surge while cruising steady-state, don't know if it was rich or lean. It did idle fine and start every time. Looks like the Factory racing set up sheet has everyone using a 40 pilot jet, but none are CA bikes. Is the 38 pilot for CA cams, or same cams, just lean pilot for emissions? Can the fuel screws correct the surging and off/on gas issue? Anyone have the "Common Service Manual" that explains the float height adjustment? Thanks!

Is that the bike that replaced the Pacific Coast?

You can also use a diamond tipped Dremel bit, or Tap-Out acid.........ask me how I know.......

Buy a left-handed drill bit (or set) and an extractor.......... https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/949293/hanson-screw-extractor-set-and-drill-bit-set-10-piece?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Gunsmithing+-+Tools%2C+Jigs+%26+Fixtures&utm_content=949293&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Gunsmithing+-+Tools%2C+Jigs+%26+Fixtures-_-Hanson-_-949293&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlvCRrrvi2gIVAqrsCh0f2ARmEAQYBSABEgKFN_D_BwE