RC1237V

Looks like the same process for the rods...

Use the LETTER codes from the block you are using, and the NUMBER codes from the crank you are using. The reference for the block code is the top horizontal row of the chart. The reading from each journal, etched into the crank will tell you which row to select on the left side vertical axis. Then the bearing you would use is where those two axis' meet. You may have a different color for each journal, as a big bore and small crank will need a thicker bearing, and vice-versa. The foot note says the crankcase codes are left to right. I would measure both bores, and crank just to verify.

If the problem came about with the new tires, I would assume that is the cause. Years ago I put a 120/60/17 on the front of my VFR as they were out of 120/70/17's. I thought lower profile would be better like a car... The shimmy on deceleration was so bad, I changed out the tire at 500 miles, and chucked it, could hardly ride the bike through the "deceleration zone" from 40mph down to 25ish. Of course, check out the above mechanicals, as the Conti tire profile might accentuate any problems with the steering bearings, wheel bearings, and axle. Tires have different profiles, maybe the Conti's just don't work well with your bike.

Wonder if they change this engine oil hot or cold...

Thanks for saving me a trip up there! I too miss the old shows in San Mateo and San Jose fairgrounds. Looks like they are trying to market bikes to people who don't ride bikes....

I just checked, the 2017 VFR1200X, and 2010 VFR1200F have the exact same part number for the crankshaft ( 13300-MGE-020 ). Might be your best option, along with a new rod and bearings. Can they weld, and re-grind your crankshaft back to the original size? I know it needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing, but plenty of people have done it on car engines. Although bike engines spin much faster, but your only looking for a few thousandths thicker....

Looks like there are 5 bearing sizes to choose from, and a new rod is about $180 from partzilla...

Perhaps the bearing was defective from manufacture, and the little cleat that is supposed to keep it from spinning was not formed 100% correctly. Over time it "walked" and caused excessive heat, eventually rotating and climbing on the other half. Or could have been the swarf/chip issue noted in some UK bikes. Was the bike filled with 10-30, or 10-40? My wife has the ecodiesel version of the 1500 Ram that had a massive recall in 2014-17. Hers is an '18 and the manual specifies 5-40 oil, whereas the earlier versions all specified 5-30. The failures rates have since dropped significantly, and Dodge issued a TSB for the oil weight. My VFR has a decal on the side specifying 10-30 oil, but the manual shows a range of oils for different temps. After the first oil change I switched to 10-40 and noticed a much quieter engine, less notchy shifting, and less clutch basket feel through the clutch lever. Not trying to start an oil thread, but as big as the engine is, with a large transmission, I feel much more protected with the 40 weight. Good luck with getting it fixed, and if you need pics of the shop manual just PM me - the online version has black blobby images with no clarity.

Hahaha, I sold two of them. My son has outgrown his Yamaha XT250, which I sold for more than I paid for it brand new in 2015, the used market is crazy now. I also sold the DRZ to my riding buddy, so I have access to it any time. I really liked the DRZ, but the Tenere is just so much better for most of the riding that I do.

Look what showed up last weekend after 4 months of waiting, and putting down a deposit! I just installed the racks and panniers, heading out for a few hundred miles in the morning. Street and dirt on this trip! Still waiting for tons of other parts to arrive, as the world seems to be "ON BACKORDER" right now....

The "dicey" issue might have come from a batch of early bikes that had "swarf" which is chips, and/or slurry left over from machining the block. I don't think any were US bikes, and most people had good results with Honda repairing them. I have not heard of any bikes failing since the initial bikes - most likely all affected engines failed by now that had that condition from the factory. I ride mine like I stole it every day, and have not had a single problem. I doubt I will ever sell this bike, it's so fast, comfy, reliable, I can find nothing under $20K that could replace it!

Apart from putting tar down just wondered if you guy's have any suggestions. Can you put down a 4 foot wide row of pavers?

Go with the above mentioned risers, or the supermoto bars from Speigler, and you will be comfortable on any trip! As far as the acceleration goes, it's there if you need it, but if you can't resist you will be smiling while paying fines, or losing your license... 😉

Have not tried the Conti's, but if they are priced well, I would give them a try. I had the Roadsmarts as well, and didn't like them. Vague turn in, and feed back, as well as a few slips while riding fast/aggressive. May have overheated them, but never had that happen on any other sport touring tires. Which Pirelli's did you have? I think the Angel GT's are the best tire I have found other than the Pilot Road 4's (and maybe 5's - need to try another set) but they are cheaper than the Michelin's so I keep buying them. I want to try the new Roadsport 2 from Dunlop - under $200 a set, and seem to be the best bang for the buck from guys I've asked. That would be great if they can handle the punishment the 600lb VFR 1200 can dole out!

It looks like they ran out of material, waited a few minutes, and poured some more - I would replace it just for piece of mind. Maybe mail it to Honda and ask for an explanation...