RC1237V

Be careful who you buy a bike from..... Read this and laugh.....750 bored out to 1000, as well as a Decatti swingarm https://stockton.craigslist.org/mcy/d/lathrop-1990-honda-vfr-750-sport-bike/6888384557.html

That's how my 3rd Gen feels, since I took out the heat shield. The 1200 has the best heat management I have ever experienced on any bike. Although everyone has different ergos, and heat tolerance. Have you made sure the heat shield is in place? Just remembered, mine has a free flowing exhaust, and has been de-catted and flashed (richer = cooler) so yeah, maybe a stock setup could be hotter.

Matches the dimensions of the part I am using!

The 1200 does not have cylinder de-activation. It does limit the torque in 1st, 2nd, and maybe 3rd.

Thanks guys, I will get her fixed. All the Kernville rides and Trackdays are paying off, since I was able to keep her upright! There is a state bill trying to be enacted which will allow you to "Kill it and Grill it" in California, but it has not passed yet......

Thanks! Luckily he side-swiped me and not the other way around. My foot was the only part of my body that hit the deer. If I had T-Boned him, I probably would have gone over the bars and had a much different outcome. Have fun, and stay safe out there!

Hit a deer week before last, while moving pretty good on a twisty mountain road. Managed to keep her upright, glad I was not on the RC51 or DRZ...

You will need M6 push rivets. Most dealers or parts stores (Auto and M/C) will have a generic pack of 10 for around $5 ~$8 - just be careful with the head diameter as some brands have a reaaly wide pan-head which will not fit correctly in the recesses molded into some of the plastic parts. Take a stock one with you to verify. I lost the same Allen bolt on my VFR1200 and ordered one, just to find it the next day..... Hahaha, I'm into Partzilla for about the same, and Jake Wilson/Riders Domain about $1500 in tires the last five years.....

Clutches can be really difficult to bleed vs brakes, as they are spring loaded, rather than a positive stop. The cheap/easy fix is remove the slave cylinder (3 bolts) and put a C-clamp on it so the piston cannot move, much like opposing brake pistons pushing against the pads, pushing on the rotor. Bleed it as you would the brakes. Once the lever is solid, remove the C-clamp, remount the slave cylinder and you are done!

I have an "F" model spare radiator with a pin hole in it. I soldered it and it lasted two years then started to weep again. No dripping leaks, but would get crusty coolant colored stuff near the repair. $50 plus shipping and its yours.... 2013 model

I posted below the pic, that is is not my bike, and I found it on a google search. I think OP was looking for black bikes with gold wheels....but they look like 3rd Gen mirrors, and those stupid condoms over the stalks are a pain in the ass. I changed mine out to a later mirror.

I will keep that in mind, as I think I have a bad diaphragm. Any sources other than used carbs?

About to re-assemble, but the Lite Tek kit came with O-ring #006 (2x9.5x13) and O-ring #012 (2x9x13). It seems like one set will be extra? I cannot tell which set goes on the air tubes as the old O-rings are so shrunken, that they do not measure anywhere near the size of the new parts. Anyone know which is correct, and where do the 4 remaining O-rings go? Also, is there any carb assembly lube, or just put them on dry? Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks!

+1