RC1237V

If the Mc Master bit does not work, no there are no threads left to engage a threaded rod, you only choices are to lay the bike over gently and get some JB Weld mixed up and drizzle it down the hole and insert said threaded rod and wait a day. Make sure you put the slave cylinder on with the other bolts so that the threaded rod centers in the hole it is supposed to line up with. Not sure from the diagram, but if the bolt goes through the "Change Cover" (Item #3) you could drill and tap the hole in that cover for a Helicoil, or Time-Sert and just use a short bolt and be done with it. Keep us posted...

The bolts in that area are 6mm diameter, and 90mm & 95mm according to the parts diagram. The longest left hand drill bit that will not mess up your threads is the 5mm left hand cobalt, which is 92mm. Measure what is left of your bolt, and make sure you have enough to grab onto with your drill. Luckily there should be no tension on the broken piece, and you can also subtract the thickness of the slave cylinder mounting flange - make sure it is not on the bike, you need all the room you can get. Put the drill bit all the way in before hitting the trigger, so if there are exposed threads, it will center itself. Do not spin the drill forward, or it could drive the broken-off piece deeper. Once it clears the threads you will need a thin magnet on a stick, or some sticky grease on the end of your broken bolt to retrieve the broken nub. With some luck, and patience it should come right out! McMaster part number is: 3474A56

Just did this the other day for a friend with a KTM, he did a similar thing and spent a week trying to get it out. He brought it over, and I used a left handed cobalt bit, and put some masking tape around it to make it fit the bore snugly, and keep it centered. Used the biggest bit that was small enough to fit in the bore, and spun the drill in reverse. I stabbed it with good force, then pulled up. Did it one more time and it caught and backed it out instantly. It was too deep in the bore to try to drill with a small bit. Good luck with the repair!

Nice bike, glad you are enjoying it!

I don't remember the brand of tiles, it was over 10 years ago. They did not look as solid as those that you have pictured, so you may have better luck. Do you know how much the pallet stacker weighs, and does it have solid rubber or plastic wheels? Also if it can turn on a dime, that creates an insane amount of twisting force under the footprint of the machine, as most can turn just a shade under 90 degrees (in their own profile). I have never seen a professional workshop garage use any synthetic tiles - always concrete, bare or painted. Not trying to argue, just giving you food for thought to save potential heartache/wallet ache... That tile floor would be great, but like you said the first time you drop a jack stand or large adjustable wrench, or anything else heavy, it will crack and break.... The wood might be fine for awhile, but debris from the pallet loader wheels will probably get pushed into the wood if it is soft enough. Another concern is getting all your racks bolted to the concrete below for best integrity, you will likely need to cut through all the layers to achieve that anyway. It looks like the floor is opening up the proverbial "Can of worms" causing a project within the project. I can hear all the old-timers I used to work with, they would always say, "Do it once - Do it right" and I'm sure you will knock it out of the park with whatever you decide! Looking forward to seeing the progress as it comes to fruition.

From my experience PVC tiles do not hold up to floor jacks, jackstands, and other items with high loads over small footprints. Not to mention when you spill oil and wipe it up, you think you got it all, until you step in that area a week later, and some more oil weeps up through the seams. Heavy items might leave permanent impressions. I know they look good installed new, but I have tried them in smaller areas and was glad I did not spend for the whole garage. The pallet loader might torque them up into a pile, when turning at full lock loaded with a bike. Then you will have a floating bubble in your floor forever... I always go with high quality epoxy painted floors, or if budget does not allow, just bare concrete works fine - tried and true - you can even stain it if you don't like the plain gray look.

Can you put different hinges on the door to make them open out, that way you can store bikes right up to the door?

Sounds like you are on the right track, I have my forks raised around10~15mm, which is as far as I can gor since I have supermoto bars on my bike. My rear shock (Ohlins) is shimmed far enough that when the top nut is tight, it is even with the top of the threads - around 6 washers I think. I also ride with the preload in the higher range, should probably go with a stiffer spring next time I pull that sucker out for service. Like others have said, if you like this bike spend some money on the suspension. The Honda engineers really missed the mark here in my opinion, not sure what their goal was, but a well sorted suspension was not the outcome. Next season buy some top shelf touring tires - Michelin or Pirelli work so well on this bike, they really make a big difference. Once sorted, this bike will reward, letting you dance on the edge all day! Here's some proof...

In order of purchase... 1990 VFR750 - bought new 1988 FZR400R - no pictures that I could find 2012 DRZ400S - bought new 2013 VFR1200 - bought new 1999 Suzuki SV650 race bike - (traded for 2006 DRZ400SM) 2003 RC51 - Salvaged bike 2006 DRZ400SM - sold to but the Tenere 700 1993 VFR750 - streetfighter project - still 75% completed - someday.... 2021 Yamaha Tenere 700 - sold recently 1999 DRZ400E/SM - parts bike (E motor and carb, 1999 frame, SM forks, swingarm, front end)

Here is the image from the 90~91 shop manual, note #20 has the chamfered edge pointing down. Also no preload adjuster, as the spacer is your preload adjuster. The missing washer is important, so that the end of the spacer tube is protected ( at both ends ) - being plastic it can easily distort against a metal surface, or if the spacer is metal, it would have a sharp edge as they are usually ground parallel to keep seated properly. The spring height difference is not enough to worry about, they might be aftermarket. Some are so long that you need to remove the spacer, and put a short one in supplied with the springs. If they were causing too much preload, you would feel the fork topping out over bumps...

I ran that profile years ago, and under deceleration around 40~30 mph the 3rd Gen got a little bit of speed wobble type headshake, every time and got worse as the tire wore. The problem went away when I went to a 70 series tire. This was the original Dunlop Sportmax tire from 1992, maybe could have just been a bad tire as I'm sure there are bikes that run that tire without issue, hence why they make them...

It looks like there are good resources for "Beam Loads" and "Column Loads" for Unistrut at given spans online. The only worry I would have is it pulling out of the wall, or bending just below the 45 degree brace. If they are much taller than the bikes, you can run a piece of Unistrut or metal/wood beams across form side to side to prevent collapsing in on itself, and use those to hang your lighting. Although you are extremely thorough in everything I have ever seen you do, so you probably already have a way better plan than my quick brainstorm... Do post pics as you're building it, we need a good project here to keep us dreaming about our own work spaces! Is it too wet there for painted or epoxy floors?

I think you're looking for the KTM 890-SMT version - too bad they are bankrupt, and the cam issue that has plagued those engines, otherwise that thing is like a box of frogs! I rode the old 990 SMT, what a hoot! Comfy, fun, and fast as F through the twisties. Too bad KTM couldn't pull it off... Oh well, keep looking...

Yep, I would snatch it if my wife was still working, but only one income, and the last 4 years of inflation have been brutal! One bag of groceries is at least $80 now... not to mention tires and motorcycle parts... Good luck with the sale!

Wow, sorry to hear about your bike. My first thought was put a used engine in it, but those are $2K~3K and if you pay someone to do it, that may cost the same. If you have the room, maybe dismantle and part out the stuff people buy, wheels, fairings, seats, pipes, windscreens, forks, brakes, etc. All the smaller parts put on ebay for half what everyone else is asking and stuff will move quickly. You can use that money to go towards a replacement, since they are around $6K ~ $8K with similar mileage, even for the 2012's and 2013's. Or if you didn't love the bike, just move on with at least some money in your pocket... I ride mine like I stole it, and it has never skipped a beat. Aside from a rock through the radiator, and hitting a deer (both well documented on this forum 😎), there have been no issues. Seems like it was just the 0.5% that was destined for failure from the day it left the factory, would be my guess.