RC1237V

I ran that profile years ago, and under deceleration around 40~30 mph the 3rd Gen got a little bit of speed wobble type headshake, every time and got worse as the tire wore. The problem went away when I went to a 70 series tire. This was the original Dunlop Sportmax tire from 1992, maybe could have just been a bad tire as I'm sure there are bikes that run that tire without issue, hence why they make them...

It looks like there are good resources for "Beam Loads" and "Column Loads" for Unistrut at given spans online. The only worry I would have is it pulling out of the wall, or bending just below the 45 degree brace. If they are much taller than the bikes, you can run a piece of Unistrut or metal/wood beams across form side to side to prevent collapsing in on itself, and use those to hang your lighting. Although you are extremely thorough in everything I have ever seen you do, so you probably already have a way better plan than my quick brainstorm... Do post pics as you're building it, we need a good project here to keep us dreaming about our own work spaces! Is it too wet there for painted or epoxy floors?

I think you're looking for the KTM 890-SMT version - too bad they are bankrupt, and the cam issue that has plagued those engines, otherwise that thing is like a box of frogs! I rode the old 990 SMT, what a hoot! Comfy, fun, and fast as F through the twisties. Too bad KTM couldn't pull it off... Oh well, keep looking...

Yep, I would snatch it if my wife was still working, but only one income, and the last 4 years of inflation have been brutal! One bag of groceries is at least $80 now... not to mention tires and motorcycle parts... Good luck with the sale!

Wow, sorry to hear about your bike. My first thought was put a used engine in it, but those are $2K~3K and if you pay someone to do it, that may cost the same. If you have the room, maybe dismantle and part out the stuff people buy, wheels, fairings, seats, pipes, windscreens, forks, brakes, etc. All the smaller parts put on ebay for half what everyone else is asking and stuff will move quickly. You can use that money to go towards a replacement, since they are around $6K ~ $8K with similar mileage, even for the 2012's and 2013's. Or if you didn't love the bike, just move on with at least some money in your pocket... I ride mine like I stole it, and it has never skipped a beat. Aside from a rock through the radiator, and hitting a deer (both well documented on this forum 😎), there have been no issues. Seems like it was just the 0.5% that was destined for failure from the day it left the factory, would be my guess.

There are versions as cheap as ~$24 that are way safer than ratchet straps. Also remember, compress the spring, remove it and release the tension. Re compress to install - DO NOT LEAVE SPRING COMPRESSED resting in the spring compressor, it is a ticking time bomb...

I use the long ones where I can, if there is clearance issues, I just use the short one. Amazing, that one filter (2 sizes) fits almost all of our vehicles for me, wife and kids... 2023 Tenere 700 2013 VFR1200 2003 RC51 1993 VFR750 1990 VFR750 2016 Mazda 3 2006 Honda Civic 1996 Honda Civic Only my DRZ400SM, my truck, and wife's new car don't use that filter... After reading this page I decided to buy the purolator as it seems one of the best, at a good price, and it was as far as I wanted to go down the oil filter rabbit hole. https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

Yes, they are called NOID lights. You plug them into the wiring harness and fire up the bike and if the injector is getting signal, it will flash. Not sure if the Honda's switch ground or power, but I'm sure someone here can tell you. Also not sure if these bikes are batch fire, or sequential. You could also unplug the injector and the ECU and test the continuity of the wire(s), and also check for a short to ground. I don't have the manual for that bike, but I think you can download them from this forum. Good luck with finding that gremlin!

You might be able to piece one together with some aluminum or stainless straight tube, and some elbows from Samco.... https://samcosport.com/race-parts/

Somehow I missed this, and just stumbled across it watching motorcycle videos on the web. I got super excited, then I read Captain 80's bit above, reminding me how Honda in the last decade plus, has somehow always managed to turn the best ideas into ho-hum bikes for the masses. Please lock up the bean counters, and let the HRC guys loose in the shop to cook up something fun for once in awhile...

I have a late bike, 2013 so I'm thinking I'm good...

As far as the triples go, I used the CB1000R lower as it was 1/3 the cost of the VFR1200 lower brand new (<$200 vs $600) The uppers on the 1200 were a dime a dozen back then for ~$60 each on ebay.... that was pre-covid, so who knows now. You probably already know, but make sure you use 10.9 or 12.9 grade metric bolt on that idler pulley, the normal 8.8 might not be up to the task... Keep posting, you're getting me fired up again!

Hey Mike, you can try VFR1200 upper and lower triples as they split the difference between the RC51 and VFR 750/800 series as far as offset goes. I bought a VFR1200 top yoke (used), and CB1000R bottom yoke (new) for a project bike, as they were cheap (pre-covid). I think you may need a .5 mm (~.020") spacer on the lower if you use RC51 forks instead of the 1200 or 1000 forks as the bottom tubes are 54mm instead of 55mm (I think?). Those RC51 triples are tight on the 750 for sure! No turning radius... JZH can probably confirm, he and a few others really helped me out when I had the time and money for this kind of thing. I hope you get this project finished! I have a few that life put on hold for me, but will be back at it as soon as possible!

I got my notice last week, but like above, my local dealer is not to be trusted. A few years back one of the employees murdered another employee during business hours, and then hid the body up in the hills where I ride. I will most likely set up an appointment down south somewhere, as they have much better reviews...

Be aware that there is a point when you will loose grip and feedback/feel in the front end if you drop it too far and raise the rear too much. The front end will wash out without warning. Probably not on the 1200 as it has a very long wheel base. I used a longer bolt rather than drill out the bracket, and also lengthened my shock. My bike is higher in the rear than yours, but not as low in the front, and I did install the Ohlins rear shock, and had Jamie do my front forks. I also have supermoto bars, so I can't raise my forks too much or they hit the bar (mine are `12mm above stock). The stock suspension never worked well for me, I was all over the map with adjustments, and could never get it to feel good. I don't know what they did wrong, maybe the stock springs were too soft, and the valving was too aggressive, but I have never had a problem adjusting the stock suspension on any other modern bike. After the mods, my bike is dialed in. It's up to you and your budget for mods, but they are well worth it! Have you checked with a zip tie on your fork stanchion to see how much travel you are using? If you're using all of it, or 90% riding on the street, it's time to get heavier springs. Make sure your sag numbers are ok too, but that is just a starting point. Your headlight should not be hitting your front fender, that seems like you have gone too far. Rebound is adjusted so the bike does one bounce, then settles, pretty simple. Compression is usually adjusted to where you are comfortable, as too much will chatter in bumpy corners, and too little will have you wallowing around. For in-depth explanations you can watch the Dave Moss videos, his info is great, but it will not fix an incorrect set up such as the 1200 has stock, unfortunately it can only get so-so at best. Also not sure what tires you have, but they all have different turn-in characteristics, and that too will change with inflation. I used to run 36R 34F for ultimate grip, but now run 40R 36F for better turn-in. The supermoto bars also help with turning that big bike. I went through that frustration with my bike too, I hope some of this helps. Enjoy riding!

I think a popular mod for people is to buy the RC36-2 stock exhaust and mount it on their 1990~1993 RC36, since it does not have that huge piece of "intestines" at the back of the header pipes. This would suggest it will fit, someone correct me if I'm wrong...

^ All of the above, in addition to the VFR1200 having a 4 inch longer wheelbase that the VFR800 making it a bit more work to hustle through the tight stuff. I raised my forks (lowered the front) and shimmed the rear shock as far as it would go. Also upgraded the shock and forks, and put some spiegler upright supermoto type bars on it. Now it handles how I like it, but it still makes you huff and puff when you're trying to keep up with sportsbikes... remember it weighs 600 pounds too... Get some rubber that turns in better, I always liked the Pirelli Angel GT and any of the Road2, Road4, Road5 series tires - have not tried the road 6's but I'm sure they are good too. I run a few psi less than the sticker on the bike, but running it at (42/36 I think) as suggested makes it turn easier too. Also work on your rider skills and soon you will be shredding the tires to the edge. Honda made the bike at the touring end of sporty, if there is such a thing, from the factory.

Looks good already, keep 'em coming!

^ Love the blue pipes above - reminds me of this beast...

Nice video series, although I did cringe when he had the engine block in the bead blaster, and left the shift drum and mechanism installed. Also he was a bit rough handling the pistons, throwing them in a pile every time...

Still loving mine too, about to click over 50,000 miles. I also did the DMr front forks with the rebound upgrade, and Ohlins rear shock. Installed the LSL supermoto handlebars to relax my back, and it helped transform the bike by making it way more comfy, and better control when riding like a madman. Also did the Don Guhl re-flash with the competition works pipe and removed the cat, and PAIR system. My friends laugh as I leave huge black stripes out of every corner! It sounds polite at idle, and aggressive when you ride it in the upper RPM range. The only downside is tires only last 2,500 miles tops - the front and rear wear perfectly as the torque an horsepower tear up the rear, and the heavy weight of the bike tears up the front. I also bought the full luggage set for touring, and leave the trunk on all the time as it's really useful, plus cops think it's an old guy's bike when they see it Only issues were a rock through my radiator, and hitting a deer at 70+ mph. Neither was the bikes fault, and the deer lived. Good luck on your search!

I met, and rode with him on one of the Kernville rides. What a great guy and a great rider! He was very laid back, and fun to be around - wow such a tragic loss... Rest in Peace Lance!

Awesome, time to get re-calibrated to two wheeled travel! Hope to see you on a ride again, maybe next summer we can get the old crew back together for another throttle session. Enjoy!

Looks like you got it sorted. I have seen other posts with 7th Gens (VFR1200) acting up with dash light issues, idle issues ABS light issues, and many were just low batteries. Seems like that Gen is very sensitive to available current, from low batteries. So far have not heard of wiring or stator issues with those bikes, but time will tell....

I have had good luck with Applied Industrial Technologies, NSK, McMaster Carr, and many online bearing suppliers. You can also get Ceramic, and Zirconia bearings if you want to pay the big bucks! Wheel bearings are easy if you have good tools to measure them, or know the size, or bearing number. Many are in the $8 - $15 range and you can pick the ABEC rating you would like. Tapered roller bearings are a bit trickier, but a few minute web search usually finds you the right info. Saves a ton of money if you have lots of bikes. From the web FYI: The ABEC rating system includes grades 1,3,5,7, and 9. The higher the ABEC rating, the tighter the tolerances are, making the bearing a more precision part. High precision and small tolerances are required for bearings to function at very high RPM, in products like high speed routers that must spin at 20 to 30,000 RPM.