RC1237V

Spent a few minutes on Google searching, and the earlier (pre-1990) VFR's had double bolt alloy lower triples, but don't quite look like that one. The dirt bikes do look similar, as they are also alloy with double bolts, but no matches. The CBRf2,f3,f4 etc bikes were single bolt, the 600rr bikes were double, but had way different spacing and offsets. I don't know much about the other brands of bikes from that era, but there might be a match somewhere. Maybe someone found a combo that worked, or a parts guy at a junkyard got them mixed up, and doesn't give a flying eff that someone may get an un-useable part. The desription says "Black Aluminum" so I have no idea what their eyes are seeing....😕

It must be an old Hond-amaha-saki-zuki part....

Maybe it came off a dirt bike or CBR as Honda likes to use the same stem length, and diameter for everything from 1984 - 2017 (except for the RC51 SP2 of course)

My 1993 had a cast steel lower, that was painted black, same with my 1990. The aluminum lower might be from a later year? The upper looks correct though...

Knobbies on a damp road with clay spots all over it, and a 20mph turn made for the slowest low side in the history of motorcycling. I just bought the AX41 Adventure Cross, so as soon as my Baja Designs Tire tool comes in, I will slip them on. Also converting the rear to tubeless, so I only have to carry one size tube. Have some Dunlop Sport Smarts for the 12 Hundo, so I should be good until summer! Hopefully get them mounted this weekend

Why we ride.....

Looking forward to lot's of rides this year as well! Although I just picked up Mtn biking again to get my old arse in shape. Not getting any younger... Hey Noel, let me know your rides, and I will try to tag along if possible. Only if it's dry though, don't need a repeat of the Tenere incident...

This thread really shows how a decent low-mileage bike can still need a lot of work to make it "up to date" on maintenance. If you took it to a shop, all that work would have been well over $1,000 especially with a new set of tires! If I ever grab a 5th or 6th gen, I will keep that in mind

The 1200 is a beast of a bike with really good daily rider manners. They do make a larger rear trunk, there was a thread on here about it awhile ago. Enjoy that thing and ride the heck out of it!

^ That happened on my bosses Harley, welded the cams to the bearings/journals. It was a chopper style custom bike, built buy some guy in his garage, I assume it was running pig rich, and he never rode it very far. Then it sat for almost 10 years, and it never turned over again, so he gave it away. Then you see these guys on tv finding 70+ year old bikes in a barn, and fire it up on the original oil.... ??? (Maybe they just don't show the oil change on tv?)

I know there are US and Euro specific headlight housings in vehicles with glass lenses (like the 3rd Gen VFR), as they do have prisms molded into them that "focus" the light down and right for US, and down and left for the UK. Not sure the effects of mounting an LED in there, as it is usually a different wavelength of light, and the bulb might have a different beam pattern, which might change how it focuses through the prisms. Way above my pay grade! The projector headlights that I have seen are usually in their own housing, and already "focused" and usually installed behind a (non-prismed) clear lens. They look like an eyeball, so I'm sure those would be just mount and aim, but again I'm just back seat driving here... What happens when you mount an HID/projector inside a glass prismed housing?

^ Say it isn't so....

That would be why a dump of a house is a million bucks around here.....

The VFR front wheel is much heavier than the RC51, so is the lower triple clamp as it's steel. The RC fork tubes are about .040" thick aluminum, and the VFR is a heavy cast piece. Are you sure the RC front end is heavier? I guess everything is bigger on the RC, triples, axles, fork tubes, brakes, etc, etc... Wow, that Trofeo version is gorgeous! The Aprilia does check a lot of boxes. The 660 chassis is sublime as well, Aprilia has always been known for having the best feel and feedback with their designs. The electronics are nice too, as well as all the modern bits.

Unfortunately, buying a warrantee nowadays is not what it used to be. I guess their outlook is that if the bike does not overheat per se, they do not need to replace the radiator. But that will also let you know how they might react to a bigger problem. Maybe ask them specifically what the warranty does cover, and get it in writing. For piece of mind, I would change the radiator as that one looks pretty beat. If they give you parts at cost, or free/discounted labor, I would consider it a win at this point. Inspect the other components as well, then enjoy the bike for years to come!

Put the Ohlins on mine, purchased from Kyle Racing, and couldn't be happier. Also had the forks rebuilt by DMr on the VFR list, with both ends sorted, the bike is much better! There must be a good suspension tuner somewhere in Australia...

^ This is very true, the worst street bike I ever rode was the best track bike. 2012 Gixxer 750, with a proper exhaust and tune it can make 155hp, and weighs 400 wet with said exhaust. Very balanced easy bike to ride on the track (not good on the street), and with suspension work, even better. Easily keeps up with all but the fastest liter bikes. That being said, there is nothing like a V4 engine note, except maybe the '15 and newer crossplane R1 which sounds wicked, but is still an $11K used bike, and not great on the street. The Aprilias are great on the track, no so good on the street, and the engines seem to go BANG a little more than once in awhile. Also still expensive. V4 Ducati's are even more money and more power, but they do seem to be engineering the scary out of them. I would not want to toss one at the track as a V4S is around $30K out the door. $ame with RC30 and RC45, and also they are too collectable. The MT-10 could be a good street/track bike, but are still holding value ~$10K. So, if you're on a budget, and really want a V4 street /track bike, your only option is likely a VFR. Third and 4th gens are as low as $2,500, and 5th/6th gens seem to start around $3,500. If you want to build a track only bike, you should be able to get it under 400 by only leaving what is absolutely needed to run the bike. Nowadays Honda does not like supporting bikes for more than 10 years or so, then parts become unavailable. At least there are plenty of other bikes that you can swap parts with. If I ever get back on my Street Fighter project, and finish it, I would like to do a track-only VFR, so I can retire the RC51, as those prices have been going ballistic too!

Many folks complain about dealers as they are usually in business to turn profits, and don't offer free repairs unless absolutely necessary. Either way, I would replace the radiator, either one will work, but the DCT version will require a DCT cowl, or modifying the original. There looks to be inefficient flow through your radiator, which is how they exchange heat with the air (passing through them). A screen door will have good airflow with a summer breeze, unless it's caked with mud... I would push them to at least give you a discount on a new radiator, as I have never seen one that bad. Maybe the previous owner lived on a gravel road. You could also check the water pump impeller just to make sure nothing is wrong with it. Check/replace thermostat if needed, and replace the coolant with proper type and mixture. I used a mighty-vac to empty the remote reservoir as I did not want to take off the swingarm as the manual suggests. Also verify correct fan operation. My bike runs at 3 bars on days I can wear my summer mesh suit, and at 2 bars on days when I need my winter suit - riding, not idling in traffic. I know that's not scientific, but Honda does a really good job of engineering most of the time, and heat / overheating is not at all a common issue on these bikes, if they are in good running order. I beat on mine hot-lapping priest grade in 100+ degree weather going up the 1200' climb in ~2 miles and coming down the short steep route ~1 mile, 3 times in a row with no issues, except overheated tires. The VFR1200 has the best heat management of any sporty bike I have ever ridden, so something is amiss, and the radiator seems like the most likely culprit. A radiator guard is also a good idea, as I did get a rock through mine, causing me to bail on a 3 day ride. The guards are just under $100. Hope you get it sorted, and the dealer steps up and does what is right, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

The bike starts in neutral, so when you put it in gear does it die instantly, or only when you let the clutch out? Also with the bike off, and in gear, can you push the bike when you pull in the clutch. If it's not the neutral, or clutch switch, it could be no pressure in the hydraulic clutch, or a locked brake caliper, or locked/damaged transmission. I would have a friend that is good with mechanicals look at the bike, or take it to a repair shop, if you cannot diagnose mechanicals or electrics. Can you post up a 15 second video?

Put the wifey on the back of the bike, and see if she likes it. When I first met my wife I took her over Mt. Hamilton to Mines Road, and was hauling A$$. At the end of the ride she said, "Can we go faster next time?" 25 years later, we are still married, and now 5 bikes in the garage...

My brother in law just got back from an epic riding trip in Moab. He drove out to pick up a camping trailer, and ended up hiring a guide for a few days. The pictures speak for themselves...

^ Yes, and plenty of you tube videos to prove it!

Ouch! Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic in your driveway! Crashed my Tenere, and DRZ both in 2021. Luckily each bike only had a few scratches, DRZ was hot-shoeing on knobbies, and Tenere was on knobbies in the wet. Embarrassingly enough the Tenere crash was on a VFRD ride . The crash bars are now broken in... You will get over it, and know what not to do next time. Glad you were not seriously injured!