RossR

Thanks Seb. That's where I should have posted this thread in the first place. I the Moderator or anyone can tell me how to do that it's where it belongs.

I did a forum search for PlastiFix, and your thread does not come up. can you please post a link. Thanks.

I think that you are absolutely right. That's why I made the point of saying that one must make sure that the adhesive and technique match the type of plastic. There was a guy at the last local motorcycle show who was selling a kit for fairing ABS repair, but I have misplaced the literature. When it turns up I will post the details. In the meantime here are links to some advice. https://advrider.com/f/threads/repairing-broken-abs-parts.586425/ https://www.webbikeworld.com/repairing-motorcycle-saddle-bags/

It might be different for each model. You have to look at the the back as Duc2V4 has posted. In his image you see the code PA6 +PPE which is mix of two different plastics. Usually it's just one type. Once you find the code Google it and you will find out the type of plastic. Some fairings are ABS which apparently is easier to work with. PPE is polypropylene which is notoriously difficult to glue or paint. My Givi E-41 cases are PPE.

I came across this article and video and thought that it might be of use to anyone attempting to repair broken tabs on their fairings. Remember to always look at plastic Type code on the inside of the fairing before you buy the appropriate adhesive. https://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto.com/how-to/fix-broken-plastic-tabs-bumper-0141489/

Buzzner, that's exactly what I thinking yesterday, when I looked at how some have modified the 929 shock which is a different length from the OEM VFR shock. They simply put a spacer at the top. I don't know enough about motorcycle geometry to assess whether these triangular brackets lift it in a differently than the washers. I'm still learning. The link that I provided earlier to the ebay vendor in the UK is precisely for a spacer to be fitted to the top of the shock. He only charges about GBP 5.00 per spacer. I corresponded with him yesterday. He is a VFR enthusiast & an auto mechanic. He cautioned about raising too much at the back because then you get better cornering, but at the price of more instability on the straight which could lead to a tank slapper. He said that he thought that a 4mm spacer would raise the bike by about 13mm, which he felt is all that you need on the street. He also sells a 6mm spacer but advised against me buying it. "Brown81", take note if you are reading this as you wanted to go for 25mm. The other vendors offer options from 20mm rise to 35mm rise so I still haven't figured it out.

I did find the same company after I started this thread. They are very much cheaper (probably clearing out stock) and their website shows that they ship worldwide. I just don't know which height to order since they have multiple options. There is also another solution from the UK which is even cheaper and easier to install, but I don't think that he ships outside the EU.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-VFR800F1i-and-VTEC-4mm-Rear-Shock-Ride-Height-Spacer/121341826210?hash=item1c408954a2:g:nZ4AAOSwQz1bKlpF:rk:6:pf:0 The person at at VFRworld who gave me this link said that a 6mm shim gives about 25mm rise at the rear wheel, so I guess a 4mm would give about a 17mm rise.

I noticed that Lust Racing and Hyperpro sell a jack up kit to raise the bike at the rear suspension. Does anyone have experience with this? Does it really improve the handling of the bike? The options range from 20mm rise in increments of 5mm to 35mm. I did a search for "jack up kit" on the forums, but nothing came up. I hope that it's OK to post links so that readers know what I am talking about. Any feedback and advice would be appreciated from someone who has actual experience with raising the bike . I am 6' 1" so getting on and off a higher bike is not an issue, but I weigh only about 170lbs, so I was wondering if raising the bike would increase the weight on the front wheel, and cause the back to have much less traction. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-VFR8...h=item3628f2cbbf:g:QLgAAOSw-xVaSUWW:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.moorespeedracing.co.uk/honda-jack-up-kits/vfr800f-98-01-hyperpro-jack-up-kit.html

Hey JZH, I found the information on the Ohlin site. The stroke travel on the Ohlins is 57mm. I am no expert but I don't think that a 1mm difference will matter. https://www.ohlins.com/product-item/56335/ Ross

Quote from DaHose post #1: " The difference in overall shock lengths was addressed by flipping over the original ZX10R mounting nut, and running it all the way down snug." In the second paragraph he did state that the Kawasaki shock is 20mm shorter than the VFR shock. Regarding stroke length, I will post if I find out what the Kawasaki's is. BTW, at Revzilla the Ohlins for the 2016 Kawasaki ZX10R is the same part for 2017/2018 so presumably the stroke length is the same for all three years.

Found this recent thread on vfrworld.com, and thought that it might benefit 5th Gen owners looking for a budget upgrade to their rear suspension. https://vfrworld.com/threads/discovered-a-great-shock-upgrade-for-5th-gen.54848/

I also only took a quick look as I don't know much about EFI mods, but what is really interesting is that in addition to not needing a computer MAP, thay say that you can rent a diagnostic tool from them for $20 that allows you to troubleshoot and fine tune. They say that that you do not need a dyno. http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-SAFR-tool.asp I just noticed that they have a youtube channel and that may be a good starting point. https://www.youtube.com/user/TuningHQ/playlists Ahh! I just found some Q&A on their site where they compare Power Commander and the other competition to their product. http://www.techlusion.com/EFI-controllers.asp http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-FAQ.asp?#DPvsPOWERCOMMANDER At this point it's all "Greek" to me until I do some study. Do these EFI modification modules really make any difference if you have a standard exhaust system? Ross

Hi, Has anyone ever used this EFI controller on a 5th Gen? It costs a lot less than Power Commander, and the website claims that it is very simple to set up. Dobeck Performance are in Montana, and appear to be legit. I personally have no experience with EFI mods, but it sounds interesting. No computer MAP required. http://www.techlusion.com/dobeck-TFI-controller.asp VFR800 specific (fits a few other Honda models as well) http://www.tficontrollers.com/Cruiser/viewproduct.asp?pid=21

Ken, I don't think that they sell batteries. Powerlet is simply a made up name for a DIN ISO 4165 Plug, (sometimes called a Hella or Bosch plug) which I am told is quite common in certain heavy farm machinery and RV's and boats as it is very water resistant. Powerlet seems to have built their business on selling this connector under the Powerlet name, and they sell a huge range of cables and connectors that connect to the Powerlet connector for accessorizing. They also used to sell heated clothing which they is now on closeout. Hence the page that I linked to, which is on Calculating Excess Capacity when using a lot of accessories. I was suspicious about the validity of their statement on the fuel pump, but knowing little to nothing about electrics I thought that comments from the Forum would be interesting. I think, at this point we can safely say that it is inaccurate unless proven otherwise by an auto/motorcycle electrician. I personally plan to open, check and clean every connector on my wiring harness just to be on the safe side. Based on all the R/R failure posts on this forum grounding and poor connections seem like the first place to start for prevention. Regarding Ricks' R/R, yes, I did surmise from posters experiences that it is definitely not as reliable as the Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA R/R.

Terry, I think that you hit the nail on the head. Heat, low quality wiring and ground connections and a poor quality R/R all in combination or on their own lead to failure. I have a 1996 Mazda MX-6 V-6which regularly burns out the ignition module that is contained in the distributor. (about $1000 for a new Mazda distributor as Mazda will not sell you the ignition module on it's own, and has made it really difficult to remove the module from the distributor). Most MX-6 enthusiasts attribute this failure to excessive heat in the engine compartment burning out the module. It would be nice if companies like Powerlet actually provided us with evidence when they make such bold statements. Just another example of the need to be cautious about what one reads when there is no solid evidence to back up the statement.