RossR

Just 'Tongue in cheek' humor. No offense intended to Manga aficionados, and if someone gave me a Harley to ride I definitely would not say No!

Ah, the "CRUISEMOBILE" designed for Batman. Honda probably got a Manga aficionado who likes Harleys to design it for them. This reviewer said that he had to go into hiding after riding one. https://canadamotoguide.com/2014/11/01/the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly-of-hondas-nm4/

In Antalya, Turkey, those electric scooters come up behind you in silence ON THE SIDEWALK. I almost needed a change of underwear the first time it happened to me. Sounds like you had an enjoyable trip.

https://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-news/all-the-technology-in-the-world-and-kawasaki-builds-a-robot-goat/ 😂

Coming here late. I watched your video. Nicely filmed and presented with a lot of enthusiasm. 226,130 views and lots of positive comments. A LOT of people liked what you did and I'm sure that you inspired a few to do something like this. Loved your DIY 'on the bike lathe' 😀 A Street Fighter For $577 ! Dude, you need to be congratulated for that and for saving a VFR from the wreckers. You obviously had Helluva lot of fun with the project and that's what matters!

Hi Ughandi, Somehow I did not get an email alert for your post. Glad to have been of help. Many others on this great forum have done the same for me. How about some pics of the fairings on your bike? Ross

I own a CBR1100XX as well as a VFR800 like yours. On the XX forum the most experienced forum members have advised against using All Balls and comment that they have not had good results with switching to tapered head bearings. This topic is potentially controversial so my input would be to use OEM Honda parts. These are not very expensive parts and the head bearings last a long time. At 30,000km I would not expect your head bearings to need replacing unless the bike was misused. Mine were replaced at about 60,000km.

This did not happen to my Viffer, but since it is apparently a common problem I am posting it here as it's a potential problem for others. I have a 2002 CBRF4i that I have had in storage for about two years with all proper procedures followed. Full tank of gas with stabilizer. I went to open the fuel cap and although the key worked fine and the cap popped up by a millimetre or two the cap would not open all the way up. Master Mechanic Google had a solution as apparently this is a very common problem on Hondas (and other makes) and there were a gzillion posts on it. Fortunately it did not happen to me when I was on the road and needed to refuel. Below is a video that explains the problem and solution. Poor engineering with the metal part of the fuel cap jamming in the tank outlet. It has nothing to do with the cap lock mechanism. The author of the video used a file. In my opinion an appropriate grit of sandpaper would do the job better. I actually used a fine precision screwdriver to gently pry the cap up per the advice of someone on advrider.com who said that he always carried one in his kit because of this problem. I shall be sanding the cap down in due course. Personally, I will remove the cap to sand it as it's not a big deal and I will not risk an explosion or filings going into the tank.

Hornet? No! No! No! This is the Hornet. https://canadamotoguide.com/2022/06/07/coming-soon-a-new-honda-hornet/ Please post pics once your bike is up and running. Glad to hear that fairings will be on the way for you soon.

Just came across this on ebay. I thought that I would post it in case anyone is looking for one. They are hard to find in good condition and the price is reasonable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295073004108

Yea! Yea! Mite! Used to visit annually. Not so much now.

Ah! Ha! Good Sir! I have been educated! Some more good Blighty slang to add to my lexicon when I next cross the Pond to mingle with my South London mates. 😃

Click the little black arrow on the right hand side of the Quote and it will take you to "Wot he said".

You summed it up in one statement. Everything else in your post is also very good advice. 👍 As long as people keep on thinking about PULL and LIFT, they will never get it (unless built like the guy in the video that I posted 😄). Once you get the technique it's just a smooth "roll" with the centrestand as the pivot.

I needed to replace a the black band that goes around the case and is held on in the front by the two reflectors. There is no problem removing the reflectors as they are held on by two screws each, and the band that I want to remove is loose on the sides and corner of the case but I am stumped as to how to remove it from the back. E-360 cases have a screw on the inside that hold this band on at the back but the E-52 has no such screws anywhere. Is there anybody who has removed this band who could give me some advice?

My ballroom dance partner is constantly telling me that I have two left feet, so using my left foot to lift the bike is a no-brainer for me 🤪

You have probably heard the joke about how you get to Carnegie Hall. Practice! Practice! Practice!

Absolutely no such thing as a dumb question. Most of us on this forum are happy to help if we can, and forum searches don't always work too good. No, you do not have to lift weights because centrestand technique is precisely that - a technique. I have a 5th gen so I do not know exactly where your lifting handle is. I started riding in the seventies and came back to riding after a decades long hiatus. The first thing that I noticed is that there is too much fashion over function with many modern bikes and I was nervous when using the centrestand despite having heavier bikes in the past. The modern centrestands do not seem to be not as wide as my old CB750 and GS1000E stands ( I could be wrong here as it was a long time ago), and that gives you that 'nervous' feeling when you first bring the stand down. The most important thing is to have the right hand foot of the stand touch the ground before you start lifting the bike. Have a friend stand on the other side to give you confidence in case you feel that the bike is going to topple. At this point the bike should feel very stable. Now reduce the weight on your left foot while holding the lifting handle and put all your weight on your right foot on the stand. If you are a heavy person the bike will almost go back on its own as it pivots on the stand. Do not pull on the handlebars. Your left hand is there only to keep the bars straight. As you apply all your bodyweight to you right foot, pull back on the lifting handle while the bike pivots on the stand and moves backwards with momentum. It is just a light guiding pull, not a Herculean one. To get the bike off the stand I straddle it and push or rock it as I am tall. If you do this a dozen times with a friend on the opposite side you will learn the technique pretty fast. It goes without saying that you have to be on level ground to use the centrestand. Sorry that this is so long winded but without showing you in person the explanation is long. A few videos to help you out' The last video is Max from Traxxion Dynamics suspension...... a Goldwing. Observe how wide the stand is on that bike. That's what makes it very stable. That's what I was referring to in my opening comments. My CBR1100XX has the worst centrestand that I have ever seen....very narrow, on a top heavy bike, yet the lady in the second video has no problem lifting it. It's all about the pivoting technique. One of my favourite youtube channels, and there are tons of other videos on you tube showing you how to put a heavy bike on the centrestand. Hope this helps

They still exist, SERIOUSLY!

I meant that I would be interested in the Convertibars if they do not work for you, not the lines.

Yes, Helibars are a stupid price for what they are. Good marketing, just like Corbin seats. Let as know what your riding experience is with those risers. I had put them into my Watch List on ebay. Better to buy adjustable Convertibars if one is going down that route. I have not seen a single person who regretted buying Convertibars. Can't say the same for Helibars. The only thing is that your outlay is high up front as you do need to change all lines to get the best benefit. They are adjustable 4" up (possibly higher) and 4" back and the angle of clip on is adjustable too. https://www.convertibars.com/product-p/honda-vfr-800-98-99.htm AND, you can adjust the parameters in a few minutes with an Allen key when on the road so you 'tour' or 'track'. Not sure if these have been mentioned before on this thread. Apex clip ons are similar but their clamp is not as good as Convertibars. This was pointed out by a competitive cyclist on another forum who knew something about seat clamps. I think he said that Apex thread into the metal and will eventually fail, whereas Convertibars don't. I can't offer any opinion on that. https://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/apex-clip-ons/apex-3-riser-clip-on-set Windshield trimming may be required with both these.

If you want to see what a real high speed chase with reckless riding is, watch this one by the legendary and infamous Ghost Rider aka Patrik Fürstenhoff.

Thanks. So if they are powder coated definitely not a good idea to use metal polish unless one wants to do it on a very regular basis as it will most likely damage the powder coating/

Very strange behavior indeed.

Here is one more company for you. You can search the forum to see if anybody has used them. https://www.nicecycle.com/Honda-VFR-800-Fairings-s/97.htm This what they claim under the FAQ tab at the bottom All About Quality: We sell and stock only the best motorcycle parts! We use only the highest grade ABS plastic available! Our fairings are individually inspected before shipment, our quality control is unsurpassed. Our fairings are painted by skilled professionals with years of experience. Side by side with OEM you cannot tell them apart. NiceCycle Fairings offer superb fitment; the best in the aftermarket fairing industry. Heatshield insulation is included with all fairings that require it. We do NOT guarantee a direct color match with factory OEM bodywork.