ZenMoto

Turns out I had to use something hard (I used the edge of a flat blade screwdriver) to push the white tab IN further until the relief tab "collapsed" into the fitting, then it slid right off. ...very unintuitive, and again, different from the connectors shown and described in the service manual; both at the tank, and the two at the fuel rail on the throttle body. Just FYI, in case anyone else runs into this.

Ok, now that I've got the tank off ...I have a new problem. I've removed all the connectors from the bottom of the airbox, except the knock sensor connector. I have NO idea how this is held in place. I've tried everything I can think of, including a small, thin flat blade screwdriver down into the tab area, and nothing can free this connector from the tab on the airbox. In the manual image, it's the slotted tab to the right of the arrow. I'm completely stumped. Anyone? Video of it at the QR link.

Thanks, I was able to finally get the connector off, and you (and I) was right, there was no pressure in the system. ...but that fuel line will not come off. I gave up for the night so I don't break anything while tired. lol I'll have another go tomorrow.

Not sure if anyone is on here much these days, but I'm trying to do a full service on my new-to-me VFR1200X and I'm stuck with the fuel tank. You're supposed to "depressurize" the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump from the harness (which I can't figure out) and then after depressurizing the system, disconnect the quick-connect fuel line (which doesn't match the service manual). I'm baffled. The manual states there should be a "rubber cap" on the quick connect and a pair of tabs to squeeze in, what I have is an old school type with a plastic snap-in clip. ...except when it's out, the connector still won't come off. Maybe it's because I haven't depressurized the system, but I can't get that bloody plug to come free (see the dark photo of the plug). I'm not sure if it's a tab there that you push out with a flat screwdriver, or hold in with a flat screwdriver, but it's the only tab I see, and neither seems to let it pull free. I thought since the bike hasn't been started in a few days, there might not be any pressure in the system to relieve, but either way, I can't get that fuel line off and find it strange that it doesn't match the manual (not like Honda). Has anyone had experience with this themselves? ...any tips here? I don't recall having to do this with my 1200F back in the day. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

First step would be having a new key cut for it. ...then it's a matter of troubleshooting anything that might be wrong. Beyond that, it's a VFR, if there's no obvious damage, it should be pretty simple to get running; those engines last forever if they haven't been abused to death.

Asking price is $3k obo. ...it's a lot of money for me to gamble. If it were *that* cheap, it would already be in my garage. lol

Hey guys, I'm interested in a VFR1200 DCT near me that has been parked for a year, and the owner "lost the key". ...it's a great deal, if the bike isn't messed up in some invisible way, but with no key, I don't even know how to put it into a tall gear and rock the bike to make sure the engine isn't stuck. I know it's unlikely, but I'd rather know that, then trust that it "ran when parked" They also claim it has less than 5k miles (and it looks it) but with no key, I can't turn it on to see the odometer either. Is there a way to manually put the bike into 5th or 6th gear so I can at least roll the bike and ensure the engine isn't seized? I love my 2010 standard model, and this would be a great bike to get back on the road. ...just don't want to throw my money away on a good-looking bike, with hidden problems. Thanks.

So I ended up doing just that ...cutting off the anti rotation pin. It allowed me to rotate the clutch line enough to angle things down to a proper level. I spent a couple hours fiddling with rotating the bars forward enough for the clutch reservoir to NOT hit the fork's preload a damping adjusters (would be a lot easier if I screwed those things all the way down, lol). Right now it is basically resting on top of that stack, and I'm still interfering with the fairing at full lock ...but if I rotate the bars back toward the rider, that same adjustment stack on the fork forces the clutch master cylinder up pushing the lever back into an upward angle ...I think I'll just have to deal with it like this. I have a feeling that, after my neck surgery, if I can still tilt my head back enough, I will revert to the stock bars This is more comfortable for my messed up neck, but I don't really like the feeling of the bars like this when strafing canyons. ...gotta do what I gotta do to ride though. :) Thanks for the feedback guys, it all helps!

Yeah, that was easy. The clutch line is pre-bent in and down, then has an anti-rotation spur that prevents rotating the line at all. Right now the line hits the top clamp (the part from Spiegler / LSL) and forces the clutch lever up at a 30 degree or so angle. ...not a good position for the clutch ...not even close!!! :( The only option I can see, short of replacing the line, is to cut off the anti-rotation spur so I can rotate the line outward, allowing me to rotate the cluster forward and down.

Resurrecting an old thread here, for those who have installed the Spiegler / LSL bar kit, how did you deal with the clutch line? The way the fitting is bent down and inward from the factory means it's pressing right into the mounting clamp, and it can't be rotated at all due to that, and the stopper that prevents it from rotating at the master cylinder. Everything is installed and working well, but that clutch lever can't be rotated down to even flat, let alone slightly angled down as it should be. ...not sure I want to risk bending that fitting as it may crack, then I'd be hosed. lol Any input / photos would be appreciated. Thanks.

That's pretty messed up! ...my dealer just took down my VIN, and ordered the parts against the VIN. When the parts came in I dropped off my bike, and had it back 2 days later. I think your dealer is jerking you around, but I can't imagine why they'd want a bunch of bikes just sitting around!

Had the recall done a couple weeks ago ...bike seems exactly the same. :)

I've put a few (hundred thousand) miles on 4th, 5th, 6th, and my beloved 7th gen VFRs, and was able to flog a press bike 8th when they first hit the market. My opinion of the 8th is that is an incremental improvement to the 6th gen with no negatives (that I noticed) compared to the 6th, but improvements in suspension feel, overall suspension balance, brakes, and definitely in VTEC engagement (though, to be fair, the latter 6th gens were getting that pretty dialed in). To me it felt a little more nimble compared to the 6th gen, and was a LOT better looking (subjective) with overall better fit and finish. Of course it's really no comparison to the 7th gen as they are completely different beasts. I think Honda is as close with the 8th gen as they are likely to get to bringing the soul of the 5th gen to us (some of us will always miss the gear driven cams ...especially when it comes to doing service). Even though the frame is the same, the 6th gen always felt a little less compact to me than the 5th, and the 8th returns to that feeling of compactness ...not sure if it has to do with the revised swingarm design, or just a psychological effect of the more compact bodywork. IMHO the 8th gen VFR is as much bike as anyone really *needs*. It has enough grunt to go anywhere relatively quickly, and is just such a well mannered and balanced machine that you will never find a reason to move on besides the want for something new / different. I can hustle my big V12 just as quickly through the canyons of southern California as I could on the 750 / 800 VFRs, but it's more work ...the payoff is simply a lot more torque and power; but if the 8th gen had come out when I was looking to dump my 5th (front suspension was dangerously bad, and I didn't want to drop the coin to upgrade it at that point in the bike's life) I would have bought the updated 800 ...I never really liked the 6th gen's looks enough to go down that road (though I did "borrow" one for a few months). :) Just my $.02 but I think the 8th is a fantastic motorcycle, and a platform that is capable of doing just about anything you could want it to. ...and the white version is just begging for some blue and red racing stripe graphics!!! :)

I'm on my phone, so short answers, but look here for my "One year review" of the 1200. I have the Bazzaz stuff and love it, but I rarely use the quick shift and have yet to trigger the traction control, so if I were paying for them, I'd skip those two and just do the Z-bomb and Z-Fi (their version of the power commander. IMHO I think the Z-Fi is better than a power commander. I have the hard bags, so my exhaust options were limited, but I went with Akropovic as they have a low mount option as well as the high mount that is so popular. ...with the removable baffle out, it sounds fantastic. I may be wrong, but I believe it is the only aftermarket that keeps the servo flap in the exhaust, I actually prefer the slightly better torque vs the slight top end gain you get by removing it. Once you fix the 1st / 2nd thing and mapping, the bike is pretty fantastic. ...or if you're big, like me, expect to replace the shock and have the forks tuned to make it really great!

Nice bike, congrats on the replacement! ...I really like the look of the seat. I wonder if the deeper welting is to prevent the bubbling of the vinyl that my 2010 is already exhibiting.