tireguy

4th Gen Oil Pump Assy. 15100-MZ7-003. $30. Came from a project engine that had about 23k on it.

4th Gen Ignition Pulse Gen Honda P/N# 30300-MZ7-003. $50. In good condition. No broken wires. I have no idea how to bench test these. All I can say is visually they look like they are in very good condition.

4th Gen Rear Cam Gears . Honda P/N# 14420-MT4-000. Came from a project engine that had about 23k on it. Gears turn smoothly. I can't see or feel anything wrong with them. I have the front set also. Buy front and rear for $50

Set of four 4th gen pistons with rings. Honda P/N# 13101-MY7-010. Came from a motor project I abandoned that had about 23K on the motor. All the pistons are in very good shape, no scoring on the sides, the wrist pins float (move side to side and turn) smoothly.

I have a 4th gen Clutch Assy. Does not include any of the clutch plates. The basket is in very good condition, no notching in the basket area. All the clutch gear teeth are in excellent condition. This is a complete assy minus any of the clutch plates.

You should definetly get some Heli Bars to help with the ergonomics before giving up on the bike. One of the first mods I did on my 98, that and a Sargent seat made a world of difference for me. Maybe you have someone near you that has a VFR with Heli's, or a similar sport bike with Heli's you could try out? As for the physical conditioning part, think about improving core strength. Planks are good for this and try a Yoga class! You would be surprised what a good work out you get. I'm 60, 5'10, 185lbs and very comfortable on my VFR. I still go out for 350 mile day rides through the mountain roads in New Hampshire on it, I take a advil to start the day for those rides.

Chris, the ends of the lug nuts are hollow, not solid to the stud. Get yourself a small drill, about 1/8 dia, drill a small hole into the end of each lug nut, the material at the end of the nut is not very thick so you should be able to do this pretty easy, and squirt a generous amount of your best penetrating oil in to each one of the holes. Give the wheel a turn every few hours, squirt again and let soak for at least a day, two would be better. With the bike on the ground, have someone sit on it and apply the rear brake. You should be able to loosen the nuts then. Buy some new nuts after, put some anti-sieze on the lugs before you put the new nuts on and torque them to 85 ft lbs, or the metric equivalent. Cheers

I installed a Rick's on mine more than 10 years ago and have not had any trouble with it all. Charging voltage goes to 14.4 at 2500rpm and stays there right up to 10,000rpm. I did change the stator at the same time and cleaned up every connection point in the charging system at the same time.

I changed my stock fan to the VTR fan, flushed the system , filled with Engine Ice and changed the thermostat switch to one that comes on at 180F, stock was about 190? 10 or more years ago when I also installed the A&A Perf supercharger. Hard to say for sure what difference the VTR fan made since I changed so much on the bike at once but I can say it doesn't overheat. I do recommend changing the thermostat while you have things apart though. I had one that would get stuck partially open once in awhile. While going down the highway at 70-80mph on a 70 deg day the bike started overheating. The next day the bike was fine without any service. Changed the thermostat and never happened again. Lets face it, these beauties are getting older. Ducnut....great work there....your bike looks great!

I just might make it this year...woo hoo! My sons wedding is on Sept 7, might still have family house guests from out of state sticking around.

I just installed a AllBalls bearing kit with seals in a 94vfr front wheel. Everything seemed to fit just perfectly! I'd buy them again

Part of the overheating problem on the GL1800 was due to air pockets (air bound) left in the cooling system after coolant changes. In one of my Motorcycle Consumer News editions some guy invented a device just for bleeding the air out of Goldwing cooling systems using a venturi system (compressed air) to pull the air pockets out, very ingenious little system. We don't have the same problem on the VFR's, all the air seems to find it's way out the top without to much trouble. The 98 VTR fan 19020-mbb-003 is only $31. Not a big financial risk. I don't think it will make it run any hotter, so if it doesn't work I'm only out $31 bucks. I'm going for the multifaceted approach. I changed my coolant to Engine Ice, propelyne glycol based coolant, not a big difference if any at all. Changing my fan switch to come on at 195, and the VTR fan. I'll let you know how this works

The carbon intake hat was designed to work with an intercooler and also to distribute the incoming air as evenly as possible. Whether or not the intercooler makes it to production, it has succeeded in the power producing department and is both lightweight and low-profile. I have been getting nearly 40mpg in normal mixed riding conditions. The only time I noticeably see a drop in mileage is performing flat-out dyno pulls or after a very hard day of sport riding. You should not be able to notice a difference in weight. The supercharger itself weighs only 6lbs, and the rest of the componentry is mainly aluminum. I will weigh the parts taken off the bike and compare them to the weight of the kit parts soon, as I know others have been wondering what the difference truly is. I currently only have a working map for the PCIII. The PCII can work, but I would first need to develop a map for it. Dan, your going to be the "Carroll Shelby" of the VFR's if your not already. After I saw this kit, talked to you on the phone, and reviewed the installation instructions, I eneded up selling my mint 4th gen to get a 5th gen....I had to get a VFR that I could put this kit on. Already started the SC fund. I'll be ready by spring of 2012.