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Jroberts3 last won the day on December 1 2021

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About Jroberts3

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    01' Honda VFR 800, 84' Honda Nighthawk, 21' KTM 250xc

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  1. I had a chance to put the VFR through her paces this weekend and I must say it has a perfect balance of performance and comfort. I can't wait for next weekend to ride it again and really happy I took a chance on it. I want to say thanks again everyone for helping me, the VFR community is awesome!!
  2. Thanks, I'll be sure to follow the instructions.
  3. Finally got it running and takes throttle! It was a bad TPS. Will need to sync the SVs, I learned a lot with this bike and riding it will be that much better because of it. Thanks again everyone for your help. Now I need to tackle brake bleeding and R/R upgrade 🙂
  4. Thanks for the offer TireGuy, but I installed new oem injectors at the beginning. Also a big thanks to Danno and Grum for your patience and time, I would have given up if it weren't for your guy's help. As suggested, I obtained a fuel pressure gauge - no problem there but the vacuum issue still persists (cylinder 3&4 to FPR) and I discovered an issue with the TPS voltage while troubleshooting further (note the bike still only starts when it wants to). Closed throttle voltage starts at 2.09v and drops to .41v WOT (the gradient seems backwards and the starting voltage is in the middle of the range). Attached video to show I'm not crazy. Also wanted to mention I didn't get a chance to remove the air box and connect the Noid light Danno, I am not ignoring you. I removed the TPS and simulated throttle by hand, the readings were the same but then stopped returning voltage altogether, It had a slight "scratchy" feel when turning it. Thought to myself, ok I have a bad TPS and very likely have a vacuum leak at one of the butterflies. The TPS is not sold individually but as part of the throttle body assembly. Found a new one on Ebay but way too expensive and settled on a used throttle body with TPS taken from a running bike. The package arrived today and all I've been able to do is test to make sure the butterflies hold pressure, did this with my mouth. Planning to install in the next few days, I will keep you posted. As always, I'm open to suggestions and comments. Thanks again.
  5. Thank you for the suggestions guys, It may take a bit for me to perform the tests as I am waiting for the fuel line gauge with banjo adapter. Also please keep in mind that sometimes the bike will not start under any condition and run time is random. Yesterday's run was with the fast wax disconnected, which brings me to a question I've had about the SV's. Should the bike start when these are closed all the way? I ask because when I had the throttle bodies off to replace the vacuum lines, I tested (with my mouth), the four brass air passages into the SV's. (where the tubes attach) and the one next to the factory set SV always let air thru even when closed. I believe it was cylinder two. I thought it might be normal but figured I'd ask you guys to make sure. Also, attached is a quick overview vid of the vacuum line routing I did.
  6. Thanks Danno, I really appreciate you hanging in there. Today the bike started and I was able to get video of the vacuum in action (finally)! I've had the gauge from Harbor Freight for a while, but the bike didn't start with (or without), it connected. Also in trying to rule out the fast wax, I disconnected it to see what happened. It doesn't make much difference at all. Today it started several times with it closed and with me adjusting it by hand. Holding the SV's all the way open made it harder to start while anything less than all the way open did not effect the starting or running. The vacuum gauge appears to show low vacuum as it never stabilizes in the green zone. Please let me know what you think. Thanks Again
  7. Greetings everyone, sorry I didn't respond for a few days. I had to travel for work on short notice. I will post a pic of my vacuum pump. I had it connected where the vacuum hose connects to the FPR. While away I ordered a new FPR and installed it today. The bike still does not start. The few times it started from before seem to be a fluke. I will order a fuel pressure gauge and rule that out as a possible cause. Considering the fuel system has all new components, I'm wondering what else it could be?
  8. Thanks for your help Danno and Grum. Here is where I am at. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge as I need to wait till next paycheck to get one. Today was the first time fuel came out of the return line. But keep in mind when I first attempted the test, I blew the ECU after a few seconds. Perhaps it's more accurate to say I couldn't complete the test. As far as volume is concerned, both pumps exceed spec by 100cc or more. I was nervous jumping the fuel cut relay and triple checked how to do it per the manual and Grum's instructions. I got nothing, no prime or noise. I double checked again Black/White to Brown/Grey (not Brown-Black). Still nothing. Super nervous now, I decided to test in the natural state with the spark plugs and jumper removed. Turned key, got prime. Pushed button, engine cranked and plenty of fuel came out of the return line. Then I saw Danno's reply and I installed a T between the vacuum line and FPR. Here's where things get weird, the bike would not start, ugh!! Removed T, still no start. Removed vacuum line from FPR, no start and no fuel from vacuum side of FPR. Reinstalled vacuum line to FPR, no start. Removed vacuum line from FPR and tried to pull a vacuum. NO VACUUM!! Are you kidding me! (someone show me the way to the nearest mental institution), I've put a vacuum on that stinking FPR probably 8-10 times and EVERY TIME it held 35psi steady. After a couple beers I was able to accept reality and tried to start several more times, still no start and no FPR vacuum. So I'm thinking I'm in the market for a FPR? Thanks again guys for taking the time to type detailed responses. I know its time consuming and probably frustrating. I really appreciate it.
  9. Hello everyone. The Fi jumper was left connected by mistake. I did the fuel flow test and the new pump puts out 300cc @10sec. at the return hose. The pump operates during cranking too. Is it possible for the pressure regulator to test ok but not perform? I ask because the return volume is double the amount in the manual. It holds vacuum and does not spill fuel with the vacuum line removed. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  10. The Fi plug was jumped. I removed the jumper and the Fi light now goes out right after pump prime. Sorry about that. I will check the return fuel Sunday. I am tied up Saturday. Thanks
  11. Greetings everyone, the new fuel pump kit arrived today and I installed it. Unfortunately there is no change, the bike starts and idles up, then slowly dies after about 30 sec. (just like before). Any throttle input and she dies immediately. Also the bike likes to sit a minute or two before starting again. A fried suggested I pull the headers to look for an obstruction. I can do that but I've already confirmed good flow from the exhaust and there are no strange smells when running. The return fuel line is clear and the fuel pressure regulator holds a 35psi vacuum. Still no Fi codes. To me it "feels" like the bike runs from the initial pump prime but then starves for fuel. See attached 2 videos taken a few minutes apart. Earlier DannoXYZ mentioned the fuel rail sticking open, is there a way to test for that? "Another test is measuring actual fuel-pressure in rail. Unusual for them to fail in open position and not build any pressure, but it has happened." I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
  12. Hello everyone. Per Grum's and Danno's suggestions, I confirmed all injector and coil wires are the correct color and I measured all sensors for voltage and resistance. I also pulled the throttle bodies and replaced all vacuum lines and made sure the L shaped vent hoses are connected to the underside of the airbox. I found no leaks in the old hoses or T's, and the bike still behaves the same and will not start. There are still no Fi codes, kickstand down, in neutral, kills witch run, ignition on. There coils appear to have low output but video from my previous post shows decent spark. I am beginning to wonder if the problem is a combination of the coils and possibly fuel pump too. Let me explain. The manual (p 5-48) says to turn the ignition on for 10sec and measure volume from the return hose. The problem though, is the fuel relay kills the pump after (approx.) 1.5sec. and there is no way to perform the test. This is what led me to jump the relay (improperly), and fry the ECU. I was never able to get ANY fuel coming from the return line. I tried direct 12v to the pump and bypassing the relay. The only measurement I could get was the output volume of the mainline without a load. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge with a banjo connection. While the volume was good, I am starting to suspect the fuel pump may not be up to par under load. Everyone I talk to says to replace the pump, it's 20yrs old after all. What do you guys think? Sensors & Electrical: I am working with a cheap multimeter and my understanding of the settings is a bit fuzzy, please bear with me. ECT: 2.44 Ohms 4.19v (voltage slightly under spec 4.75-5.75) MAP: 4.96v WITHIN SPEC TPS: 4.96v, continuity exists between wire harness ground and TPS ground, no continuity between light green & ground - WITHIN SPEC IAT: 2.61 Ohms 4.95v WITHIN SPEC Baro: 4.96v WITHIN SPEC COILS: The manual has no specs for primary secondary resistance, but 3-5 Ohms seems to be the standard. For voltage I set the multimeter (with peak voltage adapter), DC to 200v because the next lowest is 40v (this is where my understanding is fuzzy -not sure how this affects the reading). Spec is anything over 100v so all of these appear to be lower than spec. Again, not sure about the settings and how that effects the reading. Please let me know. Coil 3 - Primary 3.2 ohm, Secondary 2,021 ohm - Peak V 47.6 Coil 1 - Primary 3.2 ohm, Secondary 1,951 ohm - Peak V 51.9 Coil 2 - Primary 3.0 ohm, Secondary 2,017 ohm - Peak V 52.1 Coil 4 - Primary 3.0 ohm, Secondary 1,976 ohm - Peak V 51.6 That's all I have for now, It's been a journey and still looking forward to getting her going. Thanks all
  13. Greeting everyone, hope your weekends were great! The noid light arrived and I was able to do some testing. First though I would like to clarify some things brought up in the posts. The ECU: By pure luck the E-bay seller was only an hour drive from my house so I picked it up. His listing has a video of the bike running that it came from so I felt confident about it. Air Filter: The filter is OEM and looks tired but functions, no rips, tears or excessive dirt buildup. I've tried starting with and without the filter, no difference (The mouse nest was between the cylinders near the thermostat and oil pressure sensor (under the throttle bodies) . Fuel Tank & Pump: When I drained the fuel tank it had a very small amount of "dust sized" particles floating around. I wiped them up with a rag and it wasn't much, the inside of the tank is clean, no rust. The fuel filter and stainless steel mesh are in great condition, the filter has no debris stuck to it or in it, and the material is in tact without tears or rot. Spark Plugs: The spark plugs are new and correct number: NGK CR9EH-9, they have approx. 2min run time but evidence of fouling is starting to appear in the right cylinders. Note: this is the same condition with the plugs that came with the bike. See Pics. Today I was able to test with the noid light and measure voltages at the injector plugs. I also tested for spark and made a quick video. I had to stop testing because the battery became low - I was cranking it a few days earlier and forgot to put the battery on the charger. I also tested some of the vacuum lines but the needle bounced all over the place - I'm guessing this is normal during cranking. Maybe I need a better gauge that holds the highest value? Please advise. To Do List: I still need to test MAP voltage and vacuum, TPS and other sensor voltage/resistance. I am also waiting for a Peak Voltage Adapter to arrive for testing coil output. The flooding (more wet), condition on the two right cylinders has me puzzled and thinking I should replace all the hoses and "T"s. The downside is the unique hoses take 7-10 days to ship. I will continue testing electrical while waiting for the hoses. Again, I want to thank everyone for their suggestions, please keep them coming. Battery Condition: 12.57v Key off, 12.00v Key on Noid light fired on all injectors Injector 1) 11.75v Injector 2) 11.78v Injector 3) 11.76v Injector 4) 11.81
  14. Thank you DannoXYZ and Grum, that was very helpful. I installed the new ECU and the fuel pump primes good again. Still no start, not even a little fire like before. Will double check spark later. No codes or smell of fuel. I ordered the Noid light from the Amazon link. Testing the coils with the noid light, do I need a special attachment or use alligator clips? I am helping a friend this weekend and cant work on the bike till Monday. Noid light is arriving Sunday. Thanks again, I couldn't do this without your help!!
  15. Thank you Grum, DannoXYZ and Ducnut, I really appreciate your suggestions and patience as I try to make sense of everything. This is what I did this evening: 1) Installed all components 2) Tested all fuses for continuity - all fuses have continuity using a voltmeter 3) Battery voltage test: Key off = 13.22v Key on = 12.49v 4) Tested ESR blk/pnk = 12.87v 5) FCR test Key off = Blk/wht to Brn 0.01v Blk/wht to Brn/Blk 0.00v Key on = Blk/wht to Brn 12.2v Blk/wht to Brn/Blk 0.69v (earlier I said it hovered around 2v and I believe I was mistaken. I am video recording and writing everything down now, Very sorry about that) 6) BAS test Key off = Grn to wht 0.00v Key on = Grn to wht 12.02v Removed one bolt and loosened the other side, turned key on and lowered one side of the sensor until ESR clicked, repeated test 2 times. I did not measure resistance in the relays because I am confused about the terminology and parts identification and don't want to make another mistake. Plus I am guessing the voltage test points to a fried ECU rendering the ohms test moot. What I mean is I am unclear as how to identify the the activation coil vs solenoid click and the corresponding terminal. Also not sure how to apply this technique in the real world "measure for ground on other activation line when it's activated." Again, I stopped out of an abundance of caution. There is some good news though, the ECU on E-bay is only an hour away and the part numbers match exactly (3877-MBG-A01). I am off work tomorrow but not available to work on the bike Friday thru Sunday as I am house/dog sitting for a friend. After I get the ECU, should I perform the tests again, or only if fuel pump doesn't prime? Also the bypasses on the throttle bodies are held open (when cold) approx. 1/16 to 1/8inch. From what I've read here, that is correct. When it ran the one time for approx. 2min the coolant temp made it to 135. Should I test the wax unit with an electric heat gun? Next steps? Thank you again everyone
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