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Cogswell last won the day on September 5 2018

Cogswell had the most liked content!

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About Cogswell

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    I need more power

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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

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  1. I've seen Veefer's bike in person multiple times and spoken to him. AFAIK it's highly unlikely you'd be able to shim the plastic out far enough to accomplish that. The clearance is needed at the front and the fairing has to fit in to the cowl. A body saw or similar will make quick work of trimming the plastic - for my $.02 that would be the way to go. If you're not enthusiastic about cutting your OEM plastic, some Chinese fairings could be used. IMHO the 6th gen tank looks really good on a 5th gen. It's very subtle - probably only another VFR owner would notice. Once painted to match it would be a nice mod.
  2. I've also seen it as "Summer Blond Metallic" - it does have some tiny flakes in it. Beautiful color. I tried to see if Colorite had / would produce it - no dice.
  3. Hi, after further analysis taking into your account of the raising of the swingarm are you saying the rear shock will be able to drop down avoiding that entire exhaust system removal as per the Honda manual?? I sure hope so cause removing/installing all 4 headers looks like another PITA!!


    If you can send the pictures of how you get the remote adjuster to follow the shock through the swingarm I would be eternally grateful...buy you a beer or 3 next time I'm in Oregon!LOL!

    1. Cogswell


      The photos are MIA - on an SD card someplace - I'll see if I can hunt them up.  In summary,  leave the headers alone.   You will though, be removing the exhaust cans and the fender under the seat.  At first I thought "fender" meant "what the license plate is attached to".  They mean the entire fender assembly under the seat.  The hose threads through between the subframe and fender, so stripping the subframe is required to get the adjuster out.   Once the fender is out (PITA),  with the remote adjuster  loose and the shock disconnected,  raising the swing arm will allow it all to snake its way out.  The key lock assembly for the seat inflicted the most pain,  I spent several hours scratching my head over that.  There's no way to coach you thru it - you'll just have to do it by trial and error.  

    2. motohockey


      Thanks, for your time, I dont think the pictures will be necessary given your description of how to snake it through. I have already removed the entire fender, exhaust, underseat assembly and was about to try and wrap my head around the necessity to remove(as per Honda shopmanual) the entire exhaust system when I read your description. So, if i understand, once the shock mounts are all removed the swingarm can be jacked -up high enough to allow the shock to be moved past that exhaust collector box, right? Thank God for people who ignore Manuals and find a better way! 


      Honda's manual makes the same gross error when describing how to remove/install the stator. They want the tank and airbox removed instead of just attaching a wire to the stator's wiring and fishing it under the tank so you can pull the new one along the same path. Who writes these manuals? Maybe they just want the job to take twice as long so a Honda mechanic somewhere can charge big bucks!


  4. Hello Cogswell,

    I'm the guy in Montreal still struggling with the removal of the rear shock on my 2009 VFR ABS. In your 2014 write-up I don't see any mention of removing the entire exhaust system as the manual states? The manual definetly states one must remove the entire exhaust system? The shock wont drop down unless you remove that exhaust collector(part of the 2 front cylinder headers), no? And that single bolt holding that collector(or whatever its called) is giving me a bitch of a time, no room for a socket or spanner, maybe an off-set box end wrench??!!

    Are you saying its not necessary to remove all 4 headers and still possible to lower the shock by lifting the swingarm? The lower mounting bolt sits right on top of that collector that the 2 front headers feed into?


    If you're still active I'd appreciate any help you can offer,



  5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otZQid8qLIs
  6. The pics of that bike have been out and about on ebay in the US for quite some time. They've also lifted a few other member's bikes photos as well. They have no shame.
  7. Just thinking out loud, owners that have transplanted a 5th gen motor over have reported keeping the VTEC solenoid attached to the wiring harness to fool the ECU so it still thinks it's activating the VTEC. Then I suppose it would require figuring out how the VTEC solenoid activates the 2nd set of valves - voltage applied or not. If the former, maybe run a switched hot wire to the solenoid attached to the engine then to ground, forcing all 4 valves open all the time, then obtain a 2nd solenoid not attached to the engine to keep attached to the wiring harness to keep the ECU happy. The only out of pocket would be the cost of the 2nd solenoid. I may be off base on how the solenoid works, but AFAIK it's electrically actuated.
  8. This is not a 5th gen, but worth reading re: Chinese fairings. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/81765-viffercrabs-chinese-fairings-build-thread/
  9. The 12 will supply more amperage than the starter can draw, so using a 14 confers no advantage. For my $.02, buying the best quality battery I can get goes further than buying one with higher CCA. I got my Yuasa YTZ12 on Amazon for a ridiculously good price (I don't know how AMZN does it) and it's never let me down. The link has some interesting reading on batteries. YMMV https://batteryuniversity.com/
  10. +1 to the above - nice 5th gen example. Those headers look suspiciously aftermarket . . . Are you able to tell us anything about them - manufacturer, etc?
  11. Now that I think more about it, I'm kind of surprised that the XX (Blackbird) motor didn't make the list. Owners seem to rave about how ultra smooth and refined they are.
  12. Great find - thanks for posting. I'd love to see the 5th gen cutaway in person - that would look awesome in anyone's collection or in a museum.
  13. My '08's stator looked like the one pictured above at 18,000 miles. I was still getting 14.6v at the battery, but I was glad I replaced it.
  14. Do you have a pic of the XX to share? Been looking for one on and off for several years.
  15. I wrote this up in 2014. The photos are gone unfortunately, but the description is detailed. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/79986-6th-gen-abs-shock-removal-in-pictures/ The trouble is the hose that connects the shock and the adjustment knob - it's routed under the rear fender and over the rear subframe. It will not come out intact without removing the fender (and by extension the exhaust). The two alternatives are to 1. cut the hose or 2. remove it from the shock or adjuster. Either way it renders the adjustment function inoperable without the hydraulic fluid for the adjuster being bled. I believe there is a thread on one of the Honda ST forums on a bleeding procedure. I was getting my shock back from Jamie and I didn't want to bleed it myself, so I stripped mine down to the rear subframe. It was indeed a PITA, but it was the only way to get it back without disconnecting the hose.
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