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Cogswell last won the day on May 30

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About Cogswell

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  • Location
    Riot City, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

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  1. I found the Walmart vendor on ebay still, but just the PR2 180's - $115 US. It says "more than 10 available". But no fronts . . . Fingers crossed that they get more and they remain available.
  2. If you go the Lego route (shout out to DannoXYZ for that suggestion), you can form some aluminum foil over a small cylindrical object to make an expendable cup - 3 or so inches in diameter will be plenty. I used the end of the handle on my floor jack. 1 or 2 of the smallest blocks should get the job done, add a bit of acetone and wait a bit, I used a wood stir stick to mix it around. Add just enough acetone to get to a peanut butter consistency. Then get the repair parts softened just a bit with acetone so they'll bond to the slurry. Apply and rig some way to retain the parts in place until the acetone evaporates. Sand as necessary to fit. Should be strong as new. Practice bonding Lego blocks together 1st will help get just the right mix of legos and acetone.
  3. I've not used this, but have seen people talk about it working well for them. https://www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/2503/ Legos are also ABS plastic. I've used it to fill scratches in my sidecases (dissolve it in acetone) - works great. Can be used to reinforce the plastic or as a filler. You can look on youtube and find lots of videos on welding plastic. There are special tools made for it, tho I suspect you might be able to use a soldering iron if careful. https://www.amazon.com/plastic-welder/s?k=plastic+welder If you use Legos, you can sand it to a paintable finish and get some spray paint from Colorite and I doubt you'd ever see the repair. Best of luck with it.
  4. Always hopeful, I'll chalk it up to supply chain issues - maybe they just need to get more in.
  5. For full disclosure, they're not sold by Walmart - see my invoice, above. But that's ok. That vendor was on Amazon but left there and moved to Walmart. They're also on ebay, but the price point there is a bit higher maybe due to higher seller fees on ebay. But, it makes me wonder if the newer date codes are on ebay and the older ones on Walmart. No way of knowing.
  6. That's up $14 since I got mine there in March - still, a steal. I hope to God Michelin keeps making PR2's - my all time favorite tire. I gotta get on it and wear mine out so I can buy some new ones!
  7. This alone is probably reason enough to avoid Roadster Cycles kits. You can purchase manual reset breakers or a fuse kit and replace them, adding to expense. If you have a 6th gen, placement will be an issue given the the length he cuts the wires - you'll probably end up tucking it behind the frame next to the battery, just over the header downtubes, causing the breaker to trip when things heat up. There's no mystery to the kits. The wiring and connectors are available as are genuine Shindegen R/Rs if purchased from OEM suppliers. I'm planning on subbing an 020 for the 847 to see how that works out. Will report back on what I find. In the meantime, if you can solder, skip the RC kits and do this yourself. I would be money ahead had I done that. You'll have a better setup for the same or less money.
  8. Great observation. If he'd post a pic or vid we'd know right away.
  9. Great story and beautiful bikes. Nice to have you here!
  10. What's the part number? No telling what the rattling is - if it's a 94 engine (BTW, how did you determine that?) it's not CCTs. It's like having a radiator problem in a 1st gen Volkswagen . . . Actually a video is better.
  11. Looks as though VFRs attending may have been in the minority, yes? That says a lot for the forum.
  12. I think we'd like to see a pic of your 1994 motor . . . as either 1. It's not a 1994 motor or 2. It does not have cam chains or tensioners. If it is indeed a 94 model motor, a gear stack drives the cams and there are no tensioners. So, post a pic please . . .
  13. Mine has likely been too long now, and all I got from Jack on 2 occasions was "it's your stator". So with regard to warranty claims, I refer to possibility 3 in my above post. Besides, he has no facility to test it at higher operating temps and would almost certainly tell me "nothing wrong with it". I cannot recommend either the 847 or Jack. Mello, where did you source your 020? Thanks
  14. I'm thinking of doing the same . . . or maybe sourcing an FH020, maybe at least that might regulate enough current to run the fan without draining the battery. At this point infortunately I cannot recommend the 847. Send Mello a message and tell him you'd like to buy a mounting plate - see link to his profile. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/search/&q=Mello dude&quick=1&type=core_members
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