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Cogswell

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Cogswell last won the day on August 11

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About Cogswell

  • Rank
    I need more power

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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

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  1. It should be. The heat needed to discolor the old fuse holder would probably have burned skin or at least been painful. Once the Oxgard is on hand, I would go over each connector, ground and fuse with it. A tooth pick will do to apply it, though I use a dental tool with a flat blade that works well.
  2. That's a crispy critter for sure. I'm not expert to specifically answer your question - however if that were mine I would cut that fuse holder out of the circuit and solder in another. They're readily available at auto parts stores. There's nothing magic about Honda's - any holder compatible with the fuse type will work. It looks like the wire being held might be 12ga - that's what I would get in a replacement. If you wanted, you could probably salvage the small connector on the other wire by by cutting close to the fuse holder and splicing the new holder to it - that would retain a mostly stock set up. Some shrink tube would make for a clean install. Unless you can get the wires out of the connector to inspect them, as Terry points out there's a good chance that the wire and connector blades inside the housing are corroded and you'll continue chasing this problem until they're eliminated. I don't know where Oxgard is available in Canada (Ace Hardware in the US) - if it's not available I do recall seeing a functionally equivalent product called Noalox at Home Depot.
  3. The only thing immediately coming to mind might be the main ground from the battery negative cable up to the frame under the tank. If you have hot components (too hot to touch) there's resistance somewhere - grounds are easy to overlook. Oxgard can go a long way to helping with that. I separated just about every connector on my '08 and treated all the pins with it - including all fuses. No problems at 30,000 miles (knock wood).
  4. It seems like you're going down the right path, methodically eliminating possibilities. Once the battery is known good that's one less thing. If you haven't yet, the main ground for the battery negative cable could be checked - it's under the tank. Sketchy grounds can do weird things - like conduct small amounts of current, but prove incapable of passing a large amount through - reminiscint of the symptoms you're having. Oxgard is a great way to rejuvenate connectors / grounds, as it's conductive and prevents corrosion. Also, the starter relay could be suspect - you should be able to hear it click even if the engine is not turning over when the starter button is pressed. If not, further investigation sounds warranted. Best of luck with it.
  5. Cogswell

    Added a 2008 VFR 800 to the stable

    Nice. You might want to check out the condition of the stator - I changed my '08's at 18,000 miles and it was looking pretty crispy. A voltmeter is not a bad idea on a 6th gen to keep an eye on things. By the way - what does that attachment on the rear hub do? I've seen those previously - as in the current featured photo - but am not familiar with them. Thanks
  6. Cogswell

    IMG_3499_20171203074115_16.JPG

    What's the purpose / function of the attachment on the rear hub?
  7. Cogswell

    Seeking Paint Removal Advice

    Now that's a happy ending . . . you got your bike back, and it looks great!
  8. Cogswell

    The new(ish) VFR in town..

    Exactly - no photo, or you're just a figment of our imagination!
  9. Cogswell

    The new(ish) VFR in town..

    Is that a recent photo? Man - that thing looks brand spankin' new . . . !
  10. Cogswell

    1994 tach dead

    Wow - that's a nice looking pair of bikes. Truly Honda's best days - the early 90's through early '00s - their build quality was fantastic - probably not to be replicated and they truly made some epic bikes. Sorry for your crappy experience at the dealership, but unfortunately I don't think it's all that rare. With tight labor most are having trouble finding qualified mechanics and many of them just don't give a sh*t. None of my bikes ever see a dealership for that very reason. On the tach - I don't recall how it picks up its signal - but it wouldn't surprise me that it's nothing more than a grounding issue, or maybe a contact issue in the unit itself. If you can remove it possibly some contact cleaner could get it working again. And some Oxgard on grounds / connectors might get the electrical signal coming through. Other possibilities could be a loose connector or chafed wiring. Whatever it is, I think there's a good chance it's not fatal requiring replacement of the unit. Regarding Partzilla, I have used them - no issues. Lots of people like Mason City Honda - ask for Keith Dyball and tell him you're a VFRD member. He'll give you a good price.
  11. Cogswell

    Museum Condition 5th Gen

    I have about 7,250 on mine. Never been ridden the rain. I do much the same - change fluids, start it - keep it in ready to ride condition (which it gets every so often).
  12. Cogswell

    Throttle bodies interchangeable?

    +1 But if you do get a 98/99 unit, you need to replace the left side horn / headlight switch unit and run the cable down to the TB. Personally, I'm no fan of the wax unit on my 6th gen - I much prefer the manual control over the fast idle I have on my '99. I've even mulled over seeing if I could convert the 6th gen - hasn't happened so far. YMMV.
  13. Cogswell

    Rad fan swap for 1999 VFR

    I'm not sure a photo would be helpful - on my 6th gen the wiring snakes around the ABS pump and doesn't lend itself to an all in one photo. However, it is fairly straightforward to describe. First you need to decide which you want: > Fan Normal / Fan On - I won't cover this as I didn't wire mine this way. > Fan Normal / Fan Off / Fan On - this is what I have. This gives me full control - normal, off at speed, on in slow traffic. If you want the first, you need a single throw (two position) switch (off / on). If you want the latter, you need a dual throw (three position) switch - on / off / on. Be sure not to get a "momentary" switch. Personally I like one that's waterproof. A 3 position switch will have 3 connectors - I recommend the type with blade connectors as that's what Honda used on the fan circuit. You also need to decide if you want a toggle switch or a rocker switch. Either is fine - some of it depends upon how you wish to mount it. I chose a rocker as I did not want to see the handle of a switch sticking up. YMMV on that one. At any rate, I have a round dual pole switch (dual pole meaning with two parallel circuits), making it a "dual pole dual throw" (DPDT) switch. In the case of the dual pole switch, it will have two parallel sets of blades, 3 in a row by 2 sets. In this application one set goes unused. I got mine from Cherry Electric - similar to this one. https://www.amazon.com/Rigid-Industries-40181-3-Position-Cherry/dp/B00O3HDA26/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_0_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O3HDA26&pd_rd_r=72QGFP3V3A4BB13KQVEJ&pd_rd_w=gPTus&pd_rd_wg=FlBzF&psc=1&refRID=72QGFP3V3A4BB13KQVEJ I like the round rockers as I find it easier to drill a hole with a spade or step bit vs trying to precisely cut a square hole in one of the plastic panels. Once you've decided where to mount it the wiring is fairly straightforward. The wire leading to the rad's thermo switch (TS) is hot with the key on, and all the TS does is ground the circuit. The rocker switch will do the same. Since the TS wiring is connected with blade connectors, you'll need a supply of them, both male and female and a bit of wire - I think I used 12 ga. To start, create an extension wire with male and female ends that will connect both to the hot wire and the center pole of the new switch, bringing power to it. The center position of the switch sends no power anywhere and will be the "Off" position for the fan. Now create a 2nd jumper wire that goes from either of the two remaining connectors on the new switch to the TS (again using male /female ends on the jumper). This position will become the "normal operation" for the new switch as the power will be routed through it to the TS, making it the same current flow as stock, except that it's routed through the new switch. In this position the TS will control operation of the fan - set and forget. Finally create a wire with a female connector to connect to the remaining male blade on the new switch. This wire will go to ground and will complete the circuit, forcing the fan on. There should be a suitable bolt on the frame or similar that will accept a ring terminal on the opposite end of that wire. You can reverse the two wires on the outer terminals of the new switch, thus reversing the switch positions that force the fan on, or makes it work normally - dealer's choice on that. Center is always "fan off". Do not route the power wire to either of the end terminals on the new switch. That's about it. I guarantee that sooner or later you will forget that you either 1. Left the fan on or 2. Left if off. That realization will come as you're wondering why it's getting hot running down the road or getting too hot sitting in traffic. Once I did that a few times I became more aware and now it's 2nd nature to keep on top of it. A lighted switch might help do that. If it's a warm day and I know I'm coming up to slow traffic, I turn the fan on well before it would come on normally - that prevents a lot of heat building up unnecessarily. Then going down the road, if it's getting over 220 where the TS would have it on, I force the fan off, maximizing airflow at speed. That worked great this summer - brought the temp down from 236 to about 219. Just keep presence of mind to set back to normal op when fan on / off is no longer needed. Hope that helps. edit: This is the one I used: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/kd-series/20577
  14. I no longer have a 4th gen, but if I still did I'd be all over this one. Nice job!
  15. Cogswell

    6th Gen Refresh

    It's usually better to ask for forgiveness than for permission - but when it comes to the wife . . . maybe not so much.
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