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Cogswell

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Everything posted by Cogswell

  1. Can't say I've tried em, however when replacing critical parts that are a lot of work to r/r, I'm inclined to go with the best I can get. I'm leery of low priced Chinese parts. If it's too good to be true . . .
  2. Interesting and well written story. I'm glad it's "Part 1", as I'm really interested in what became of The Hottie and the Blue Flying Saucer! Also, I dig the Kawi with drum brakes - you really had it goin' on then. More of the story and more pics if you've got 'em, please!
  3. I once bought the Batteries Plus brand YTZ-12 for my 5th gen. It lasted 2 years being full time on a battery tender. Don't know about the Duracell, but I'm wondering if they're made in China. A Yuasa YTZ-14 can be had on Amazon for $127 to the door, a -12 is $112 delivered. I replaced the B+ unit with the older Yuasa from my 6th gen and put the new Yuasa in the 6th. The older Yuasa is still going strong at 7 years. At least Yuasa is a known quantity - I'd want to know more about the Duracell before going that way. I'm not buying any more of the B+ branded units.
  4. Thank you Grum. I succumbed to a moment of brain fade - I stand corrected! Hopefully the bolt ID is now sorted! Cheers
  5. I have never been concerned about the VTEC, tho I think it returns little to nothing vs the cost and complexity of the inevitable tensioner replacements and insane amount of work to do a valve adjustment. The big thing for me is the lack of the gear driven cam whine.
  6. It's similar - same concept with the shoulder, however on 6th gens those are an internal allen hex drive vs an external drive hex bolt.
  7. Presuming you have a 6th gen, when you raise the tank there is a cable attached to the under side of the tank at the front, the other end of which attaches to the frame. That looks like it could be one of the two bolts that hold that cable. BTW, the coil packs are retained by bolts the are an internal allen drive and have a shiny finish, so no worries on those.
  8. With stock tuning, you do not need them, 98/99 did not come with O2 sensors. However, if you want to use Rapid Bike or Power Commander autotune, you will. Nice stainless plugs can be had for $10 +/-. Having the bungs gives you the option to do some tuning later.
  9. AFAIK, when it rains hard, there's not much keeping things dry. I believe that gap is designed to smooth the airflow, otherwise the dead space behind the screen would create a lot of turbulence for the rider and be very fatiguing. There used to be a product made by a member called the "Bug Buster", but it's long gone and was a mesh product to keep out bugs, not water. Maybe some type of water resistant foam could be shaped for a press fit that would plug it - then see what happens. May I ask what make of exhaust cans you have installed? They look good.
  10. Interesting to watch them lean in to and look through the curve like on a bike. At least initially I would probably have to overcome the instinct to counter steer. It looks like a lot of fun!
  11. " . . . and left the angled port at the back of the carb open to atmosphere instead of connecting to the charcoal canister). " What happens if you cap off this port?
  12. That, and when you're young you're a lot more resilient than us old farts . . .
  13. AFAIK, you should be able to sell to anyone, but since the audience is VFRD and contact likely via PM, you'd most likely sell to another member. You could include contact info but personally I would not do that on a public forum. I would post your photos as you see fit, shouldn't matter BTW, are you sure that the reason isn't actually "marital harmony"? I can't count the number of bikes that got sold because the "family CFO" said so.
  14. Interesting - I don't ever recall seeing that company mentioned here or elsewhere. As I don't know anything about it, I don't have an opinion, but if true this would not be the first company to private label Chinese made goods with an overlay of slick marketing. Power Stop brakes is one example - Chinese made but a very well put together look. And who knows - maybe they're fine - I've never used them. And the same with this company - I have no idea where they source their parts or if from China maybe to a high standard. However, I've been bitten by the "China syndrome" enough times where I thought I was buying quality parts but instead got Chinese garbage (NAPA Auto Parts ranks high on my gripe list) that I've become a "prove it to me" consumer. I want to know where parts are sourced, manufactured and to what standard. Markets are highly price sensitive (the masses looking for a low price point vs good value), that outsourcing has become a prime way of doing that. So I suppose until a box from them shows up with the country of origin stamped on it there's no way of knowing. I have yet to be successful at contacting any company with that question - it's usually some non-answer answer - "we source parts from various locations at different times through our global supply chain - blah, blah, blah." To me that translates word for word to "made in China" and I move on. It is getting tougher as so much has moved there. There are exceptions though if one wants to look. It would be great if this is a company is on par with Shindigen and OEM Honda, as alternatives are good for everyone. Maybe someone who's ordered from them directly knows and can chime in. Again, I'm not knocking them - just don't know how they do things. As always, YMMV.
  15. Don't know the answer, but maybe an idea to get you through C19 would be a spare lithium battery that could be carried. When the installed battery goes flat either jump it with the spare or swap it. At least you wouldn't be stranded.
  16. Grum and BLS are on to something here. People that do these mods are often disappointed, figuring that anything that lessens the sound attenuation on their can will make it sound pleasing. It will certainly make it louder, but the tonal quality may not be what they expect. That aspect of it can be compared to the brass section of a band. Trombones are maybe the easiest to visualize as the changes they make are readily seen. Tone / pitch is a function of many variables (beyond what I'll mention) but starts with the musician's lips and how tightly they're pursed in the mouthpiece and what pressure is applied. That produces a frequency that travels down the tube of the trombone. Less pressure / and looser lips will produce a lower tone and vice versa. That's analagous to the bike's engine. That is changed by rpm and throttle application. The staggering of the firing pulses are fixed (and well documented on this site). But on our V-4's they're different from an in-line 4 and thus have a noticeably different tonal quality (but may be equally loud). Two other variables in the mix are the diameter of the tube (a trombone has a lower tone than a smaller diameter trumpet and a higher tone than a larger diameter tuba). The diameter allows the sound waves to reverberate back and forth, the larger diameter allows the waves to travel further across the tube giving them a longer wave form resulting in a lower tone. The other obvious change to the tone from a trombone is the slide. The longer the tube, the lower the note that comes out given the other factors held constant. A longer and larger can will produce a lower tone than a short can that's been chopped off. The trombone player "tunes" the instrument to get the desired result from his inputs (lip frequency and slide length) given the constant (tube diameter). Makers of aftermarket slipons can tune the diameter and length to get the best blend of both (as well as packing, baffles and other factors) to come up with a pleasing tone. Yes they'll be louder than stock, but don't have to be obnoxiously loud - and if done right, may well produce a more pleasing tone. I gutted my stock 6th gen cans, and while they sound pretty good, it's not as good as my Remus cans - the 4 smaller outlets produce a different tone than two larger ones. When I have the baffles out of the Remus's (making the outlet larger diameter) I find it interesting how many thumbs up I get from passerby or drivers that love the sound. It's a very pleasing, mellow sound - and I've asked others if they find it obnoxious as I accelerate hard and I've never gotten a negative feedback on it. My neighbors love it when I come and go (figure that). So a cut off can or even a gutted one is not likely to sound like a well tuned after-market alternative. Once you hit that sweet spot, you'll find it quite pleasing to listen to the sound of the engine even droning on the interstate. A raspy sounding can gets on my nerves and I just find it loud vs something I like to listen to. That's one (of many) reason I so love the V-4 formula - when the sound is properly tuned, there is just nothing else like it. The best sound IMO is my 5th gen with the Two Brothers can on it. When it's warming up on a cool morning, I've had passerby stop to watch as the hot exhaust contacting the cool, moist air makes smoke rings clearly visible on each pulse. That and the sound (both of the exhaust and GDC's) is pure sex! As for the economics of it, I don't really care what the bike is worth (except for insurance purposes). I do this for my enjoyment and don't view it as an investment. The addition of mods that are reversible I don't think really devalues a bike much, if any. A slip on, risers, lowering blocks, power outlets, a voltmeter, etc - no big deal. IMHO what truly degrades a bike's value are things like stickers, chopping fenders, altering the intake system, amateur paint jobs, poorly executed rim stripes, things such as that. But that's just me.
  17. That's too low, you're only getting battery voltage. If your idle is below 1,000 rpm, bump it up and see what you get - it should be at least in the mid 13's. Mello Dude's got your 6 on this one - follow his advice.
  18. What year 5G? Does it have the manual starter valve lever on the left pod with the headlight and turn switches? If so, are you using it for cold starts? It would be present on a 98 or 99 model year. If the lever is absent as on 00 / 01 models, possibly the wax unit is defective. It sets the starter valves based on coolant temp, and they do sometimes fail. Also, hard starting and rough idle can be a symptom of starter valves that need to be synchronized. It can be a DIY project for an intermediate to advanced DIY'er with a specialized tool - otherwise it's for a repair shop.
  19. I have a family member that recently suffered severe vertigo. Through observation, I realized that if that happened to me my riding days would abruptly end as there's no telling when or if it could strike again. Even a mild case would result in a crash. When I've seen CanAm's, it's seemed to me that they share disadvantages with motorcycles (little crash protection), with none of the advantages - small footprint, the ability to lean, takes up little garage space, etc, and none of the advantages of a car - carrying capacity, weather protection, climate control, possibly longer range, etc. I figure that if I can / want to ride, then I'm going to ride. If I can't do that, then my next option would still be a Honda, but it would be an S2000. Or possibly an old hotrod I could take to car shows. I don't think I would get much out of riding (or is it driving - or both?) a CanAm.
  20. Love that blue color. IIRC that connector is on the left side. With the gold calipers that bike looks to have ABS. If so, the front ABS pump is mounted to the frame above the rad - there should be several bolts retaining it, any one of which could serve as an earth connection. There's also the cable between the frame and tank - that's another bolt that might also be convenient.
  21. I'm always up for having a look-see at a bike parked any place I happen to be, no matter the make or model. Probably like many that look at my 6th gen, they may or may not know what it is, and if they don't own one, probably aren't interested having one. But like me, they probably respect that someone else rides and understands why, so the make / model of the bike doesn't really matter. I'm the same and the same way with old cars - I respect that other people like what they have and that it works for them. I like to look, but I don't often see something I would put down hard cash on. So recently I was at a Costco (for those that don't have those - they're a mega wholesale club warehouse). At any rate, saw a Valk parked outside so I went over to check it out. Nice enough looking bike - but from the looks of it well used. (below). But on further inspection, noticed a couple of interesting things about it (further below). Upon closer inspection, I noticed the front tire, . . . hmmm. Looking at it I thought "sir, you apparently don't place much value on your life - that front tire is beyond done". Clearly the crown of the road has taken its toll. But then, I looked even closer at the rear tire . . . I've seen this before - IIRC there's a subset of FJR owners that do this car tire thing and call it "The Dark Side", using Darth Vader as their mascot. This looks like it might be a snow tire, maybe figuring that the rubber compounds in it are softer than on a typical all season tire. Regardless, this front and rear look like a lethal combination. I know how much the handling goes off when my rear tire begins to wear down the center some . . . a delivery truck could probably out corner this setup. I suppose the gremlin bell is supposed to keep him safe . . . but if it were me I'd swap out for the proper, new rubber and ditch the bell. Tires are an expensive part of this hobby - maybe up to $.10 per mile or even more . . . but then again so are hospitals! When it comes to tires, my motto is "if in doubt, change it out". Safe travels to all
  22. While your VTEC shares a good amount of DNA with the 8th gen, it has its own issues with fueling and a very different ECU that's at least a decade behind the 8th gen's. The development of the VTEC happened in the late '90's when emissions regs were tightening and maybe the electronics were not as refined as today. The AFR's were tuned to be very lean, to the point where it could be too lean under certain conditions. You can search through the forums for remedies owners have instituted over the years. In my case I used a Power Commander to adjust the fueling, and with an injector cleaning dispensed with those issues. These days I'd probably get a Rapid Bike module vs a P.C. and let it tune itself to a bit richer AFR and see what you get. If you still have the PAIR system be sure the valves are clean and there are no leaks in the system.
  23. In that top photo, the tape wrapped conduit / wiring appears to be a VFRness. Maybe while doing this do away with all that and go the 847 route. Watching the stator wrestling match at Custer X2, I decided to do away with that connector and all the consternation caused by trying to drag it across all the hoses and wiring in the "V". Some sadist at Honda really had it in for us when they came up with that!
  24. In addition to the Bestem bags, I also have a set of the Honda brand bags. While IMHO the Honda branded has a better feel and look to be better quality, it's not the end of the world that 2 of the 4 top zippers on the Bestems grenaded on me. They still do the job - just be careful that nothing falls out on the way to / from the motel room. And it doesn't mean that if you bought them it would happen on yours. Maybe the more significant difference is that the Bestem bags are larger and hold more volume, more completely filling up the side case vs the significantly smaller Honda bags. With the Bestems if you have loose clothing that takes up space and weighs little they can be max'd out. But be careful not to pack them full of too many heavy things - disc lock, tools, tire kit, extra beer, etc. The Bestems are a good deal, and I'm not sure the Honda bags are even available any longer. I highly recommend having a set of these as your side cases will be much more useful and organized than without them. Once you have them you'll wonder how you ever got along without 'em.
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