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Cogswell

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Everything posted by Cogswell

  1. When you return the front to have it re-mounted - while there I might point out to the shop that the directional arrow is cast in to the spoke(s) on the wheel. That should never happen. I had a tire shop do that on a car that had directional snow tires. Hence why I finally knuckled down and got myself set up to change my own (bike) tires. Not only saves money, but also if something like that happens I only have myself to blame! He also should be willing to do it while you're there vs you making 2 additional trips. If not I'd find a new shop.
  2. If you pull the clutch cover (sounds like you've done that if you can feel it) you should be able to push it up, either with a long thin screwdriver or a heavy piece of wire. The latter might conform better to the available space. As a last resort (say for example, the cap is wedged in at an angle and stuck - or whatever), it would be much easier to fish out if the chain lays slack (providing more space) by removal of the intake cam (on the front cylinders). You would be able to look down the cavity the chain runs in and see it. That, however is a LOT of work, so as I say, the last resort. It may take some patience but you should be able to push it up. This for me has been one of many design elements on Hondas that work so well but give one fits when trying to service them.
  3. I don't know how the value of it could be better documented. Still . . . Despite being a mutual (owned by policy holders) company, S.F. like all insurance companies are not necessarily there to take care of your loss - they're there to make money. I just keep my receipts for add ons and extras and hope if the worst happens I can do the same - convince them of the investment. I was hoping there might be an agreed value solution, but alas, it appears not.
  4. How do you insure the full value of all those parts and pieces? A typical insurance company is going to pay book value on what is now a 25+ y.o. bike. And since most of the parts are out of production there are no comparative values.
  5. +1 ^^^. The bolt on the cat goes through the shock mount. The CS bolts have loctite on them - mine squeaked loudly upon removal - at a couple of points I thought the right side bolt might break but was fine. You'll need new crush washers for the headers or it will leak. Most importantly, the right (clutch) side CS bolt is LEFT hand thread, so to loosen turn clockwise.
  6. Just wondering, did you request your plate or was it by chance you got one ending "VFR"?
  7. That looks like OR242 out of Sisters. Love that road. Is that a recent pic?
  8. You still have a ways to the 16,000 mi valve adjustment interval. For reference recently I was doing other work on my 5G motor that has a bit less time on it than yours and decided to have a look at the valves. They weren't perfect, but well within range. You can't draw any conclusions about valve clearances by how it sounds as they'll tighten up over time. If they get so tight that they cannot seat properly then you probably would have some rough running issues. On a 10,000 mi motor that's highly unlikely. Rough running can have many causes, including clogged injectors, mis-fire, intake leaks and other issues. The former is very possible given the age and that it's been sitting so long. Poor fuel delivery can cause uneven output amongst the cylinders. You mentioned the 6500 rpm mark "in all gears". Is that present in neutral? I'm wondering if the chain might be too tight. Diagnosing is a process of elimination taking nothing for granted. Check or test the easy things 1st - wiring, ignition (including plugs and leads), induction (airbox, filter) then the fuel system until you find the issue(s).
  9. Compare the tires' profile to new ones. If the crown is worn down, it will make it less willing to lean. Sounds like time for new ones if they're down to the wear bars. I would see how it responds with new tires before drawing any conclusions.
  10. Makes me want to subscribe for the nostalgia of it and before they're all gone.
  11. Is the 'sealant' something someone added? I can't recall seeing anything like that previously.
  12. The nut on those K&N filters damn near killed a 6th gen owner on here and came close to doing so to a friend of mine who owned a 5th gen. Both cracked at the nut and soaked the rear tire while they were going down the road at speed. I know that in at least the 2nd instance the nut was not used for installation. Both were very lucky. Maybe K&N has changed them since - I have no data on that. But having seen it twice I'm not willing to gamble my life on it.
  13. And go to Roadster Cycle and get an 020 or 847 RR to be done with it.
  14. There's a guide in the tech section on replacing them. The PITA part is getting to them. From there it's easy. It can be done with the tank on but is tight access. Be careful of the washers on the small bolt that's removed to insert the key. It's aluminum and if you drop the one on the front cylinders it will go down in the engine's "V". It well be very difficult to fish it out. If not replaced there will be a leak. It seemed intimidating at first, but anyone can replace them with basic hand tools. I made a key with some scrap stock laying around using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and a file.
  15. That's amazing. In a blindfold test I'm not sure I could tell the difference.
  16. What is the problem? And yes, photos please.
  17. Just thinking out loud - you might be able to sell your DMr units to another owner to recoup some of the cost of swapping forks. Maybe try that before deciding on something. My 4th gen would have benefited more from a fork upgrade than my 6th gen did.
  18. For me the other memorable line from that movie (not as good as the above tho) is when he's at the wheel of the 928, looks in the mirror at the Cadillac land-barge, then over at the girl and says "I think I can take him!". Hmmm . . . let's see, Porsche 928 vs 4 ton Cadillac with sofa cushion suspension . . . ya think???
  19. Are these ABS or standard? (ABS compatible will have one rotor with 3 small drilled and tapped holes interspersed between the 6 mounting holes to mount the ABS pulse generator ring). Otherwise they are identical to and also fit standard models.
  20. Looks great. I'm curious how the LCD pods are mounted and connect to the circuit board. Maybe with screws and the connection with the row of pins across the bottom? Also, what LED's were used and where did you source them?
  21. If I were going to have a sports car, it would be an S2000. Any car that can turn 8,000+ rpm and has a manual gear box has got to be a blast to drive.
  22. I can't remember the last time I saw a 944. Great cars.
  23. While not related to the high idle problem, #1 cylinder not causing an rpm drop could be from either spark or fuel delivery issue. Those are not likely, but it never hurts to make a thorough inspection before drawing conclusions.
  24. All the TB boots I've removed have been like that - they're not particularly pliable or "squishy" - they've been hard but with some pressure can be squeezed slightly in to an oval then will rebound to shape. Once cleaned up there should be no visible cracks or splits. If not then they're likely OK - if it's the TB boot leaking it must not be tight. Honda gives a spec for that tho how in the world they expect us to measure that under the throttle body is beyond me. The other thing to be sure of is that both boots and TB are seated completely prior to tightening the clamps. Honda specs putting a bit of oil on them when installing - probably necessary to get them to seat completely.
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