TriumphTraitor

It's definitely oil, it has that slight blue hue with the acrid burnt oil smell. Unlike the condensate this Puff of Smoke lingers in the garage too. Oil consumption is minimal to nonexistent I would say. No brown mayo in my sight glass. I use synthetic which really helps reduce the condensation buildup within the Crank case. I'm also fairly low on the ODO, Sub 30k km. Out of all the 6, 4 stroke bikes I've owned, this is the only one that's ever done this. My buddies pannigale does it on every start up, but I think that's due to the larger clearances on the piston rings that Ducati uses on its bikes.

Hey all. So it's been about 2 years since I've had this happen now, but randomly during a cold start I'll get a burning oil like Puff of Smoke from the exhaust. Never happens after long stints of no use though Ive never had a motorcycle Puff before. And on my car I ended up replacing the valve guide seals. The car at that point was blowing smoke at every start and worse the longer it would sit. Which isn't a similar symptom to my vfr Is this a normal thing for a 6th Gen vfr? Has anyone else had a random Puff of Smoke during start and found the cause?

Awesome! I'll be shipping it out tomorrow for ya! If you have any questions when you install it, just let me know

It's certainly an odd self diagnostic feature I've seen on every bike with ABS that I've owned/ridden. From what I have been told, in order to keep the ABS module as small and cheap as possible they have a different type of self diagnostics from cars. Idk how true that is though.

Honda certainly had some questionable design choices with the fairing and filter placement that certainly takes the fun out of doing your own oil change. I find the plastic at the ages of these bikes now is getting somewhat brittle too - so small tabs, brackets and thinner sections of the fairings are prone to cracking and breaking sadly. Congrats on getting the job done!

Hey all, My manufacturer finally came through. Here is the ebay link for any one interested https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124245030466

Welcome! She's a beauty of a machine indeed, youre in for a treat for sure with quite a few reliable miles ahead of you!

I'm reaching out to my manufacturer again to see if they are open for business yet - hopefully I will have some on hand soon. I will be posting them up on eBay under the same acct, i will also post up a link in this forum once it's posted Thank you everyone for your patience!

hey, so I had my cluster apart not too long ago doing an LED mod on it... When I first put it back together I ended up removing the ground from my LCD panels on the PCB by mistake which caused the LCD segments to not display anymore. You'll need to verify the ground pcb circuit is not faulty by using a multimeter on the ground pins. There are 4 seperate ground circuits that are all controlled by the onboard microprocessor. If the grounds have become corroded, you may be having issues - it might be unlikely,but worth checking Cheers

I bought this exact set last year. Great bags and so far have held up to my abuse and are relatively inexpensive too! Certainly a great buy for anyone who has OEM hard bags.

I looked into this a bit back and definetly the Koso Apollo grips are the closest ones to looking factory. Won't be plug and play, some wiring will be required (fuse, relay etc.)

to gain access you will need to remove the exhaust. Some say you can get away with just loosening it, but if you're going through all that effort you might as well take it off. If I remember correctly, the cat has a bracket attached to one of the centerstand mounting bolts. It's been a bit since I'v had my exhaust off now

Stumbled upon a great install Vid this morning

I must give credit where credit is due. @VFRUNNER did a nice write up on how he did his swap. I used this as guidance and to calm my nerves! The LCD displays are soldered directly to the main PCB with a row of pins. Each LCD is secured into a clear light optic housing with one way snaps. That clear housing is then screwed to the PCB with four screws. Unsoldering all of the pins was beyond tedious, each gauge took me almost an hour to remove! I should have taken more detailed pictures but hindsight is always 20/20.... I bought a set of LCC-2 3528 1210 SMD LEDS from ebay they were relatively cheap. 30 LEDS cost me like $11CAD with shipping. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/ULTRA-BRIGHT-PLCC-2-3528-1210-SMD-LEDS-SURFACE-MOUNT-SMT-1-100-PCS-PLCC2/310314933505?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=610764087015&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 When I installed the LCD panels back and did a quick test, the speedo display was missing most of the segments (no temp display no KM/h display) and I just about died when I saw that thinking "great, I just destroyed a very expensive part..." Not having a schematic of the PCB layout I really started to panic and started tracing leads and troubleshooting. Luckily I found a solder trace that I missed re-soldering up that controlled one of the ground pins on the display - Only way to learn is by doing! even if there is a prospect of very expensive failure 😛 I really do like the look of the inverted colours. My street Triple had the Black text white background display and it was easy to read in all conditions. So I'm pretty hopeful the same could be said with this upgrade too. Once the Snow and rain stops here I can't wait to get out for a ride and test it out.

Thanks! I'm pleased with the outcome. The tach face is still stock. So I changed the 3 outer LEDs from red to white and left the two inner LEDs red for the needle. Putting in the white LEDs started to turn the red lines this really faded out pink, so I took a red plastic file folder from the dollar store and cut out a ring to put behind the red lines to make the red more red again. The first picture is out in the daylight and the second is with the garage door closed to make it dark. It would have been neat if I could have got the silver ring to glow a bit as well but wasn't quite possible.